The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: goodolddays on April 29, 2014, 10:26:43 AM
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Gday all .
Here are a few warts and all pics of a Playboy I picked up on the weekend.
Looks like the rear of the cab has been replaced at some point and the bottom rear is falling away a bit so will have to address that .
There are 2 wear spots on the playfield , one near the left bumper (not sure what I can do with that as yet) and a small one in the Grotto .
Cab has been painted white (badly) so the plan is to strip and repaint it next Spring/Summer.
Game came with a Stencil kit but its old and peeling off the backing paper and not tacky so will probably have to remake new stencils using the originals as a template.
Has a new CPU board and boots up/plays, most connectors have been replaced at some point .
I stored the head away before thinking to take any pics of the boards &^&
The playfield is filthy so step 1 will be to strip and clean it . Why do people put black rubber on games of this vintage ^.^
Will give it a clean up and overhaul , then put it in the line up to play until its time for the cab repaint .
Will have to flatten the plastics under the top arch , all the rest are great and none broken ^^^.
I am giving myself a budget of $400 to tidy up and overhaul this game . It will then owe me $2500 which I guess is pretty good for this title .
Job list is :-
Strip and clean playfield and flatten the 2 big plastic pieces
Replace coil sleeves and probably coil stops
Flipper rebuild kit and new flipper bats (the originals on it are broken)
New Pop bumper skirts, bodies, bases , rod/rings
New playfield rubber
Probably New top lane guides (shame you can only buy generic ones though)
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here's a few more pics .. will also be stripping and cleaning the mechanical parts such as slings, drop target bank etc
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good score looks reasonable condition @@*
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That's a nice example. Grotto is usually more worn, as is the sections in front of the slings and bonus area.
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What a pick up Dave. It will look great when your done with it. And for not a bad price either ^^^
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Great score Dave.. i'm a little jealous as this is a title i would LOVE to have someday *%* *%*
Playfield looks nice to me, even with those two wear spots. Looking forward to seeing this one being brought back up to scratch ^^^
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Very cool ^^^ looking forward to the watching your progress.
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can't wait to see it back to its former glory , good luck
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I hope youve made enough room to fit it in. Dave %.%
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Here is the playfield now after an initial clean with Nifty followed by ME with Tee tree oil .. still some spots left to do with ME.
Haven't been able to undo any of the grub screws yet holding the flipper bat shafts on !!!.. have hit them with WD 40 a couple of times .. hopefully it will soak in and help
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Just rub her playfield a bit gentler Dave and she might loosen up for you &&
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Just rub her playfield a bit gentler Dave and she might loosen up for you &&
more lube on your grub screw
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nice work $#$
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I've levelled off the worn Pop bumper area with wood filler and then done what I can with my $2 acrylic paints and unsteady hand to touchup the lost artwork . Here is a before and after pic
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taking shape,the flesh colour is a bitch to match.lol
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taking shape,the flesh colour is a bitch to match.lol
thanks .. yeah Flesh colour is the hardest I reckon . Luckily the Pop bumper will help to hide some of it LOL.
Better than worn to wood anyway.
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for sure.keep up the good work
$#$
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What a great fun game good to see Howzat
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Great buy
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I've been working on this game the past few days as my PBR order arrived last Thursday .
Finally finished the underside of the playfield .. stripped/cleaned each mech .. install new coil sleeves, new flipper kit, new flipper cabinet switches etc .
I wiped off the 1st touchup attempt and had another go which i think has turned much better ie.. skin tones matched closer, painted the missing part of the dress in (even though it turned out wrong LOL) , painted in the outline along the leg.. mimicked some of the surrounding graphics etc
Here is a pic of approximately what the eye will see without the pop bumper installed
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Have finished stripping /cleaning/rebuilding all mechs on the underside of the playfield .
Installed new coil sleeves, new flipper kits and new flipper button cabinet switches .
The 2 top arch plastics were really warped, so stuck them in the oven for 7 minutes at 110 degrees C then under a couple of heavy books for a couple of minutes.. not perfectly flat now but a lot better
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Cleaned the playfield again with Novus 2 and have started reassembly .. already got a bit of a shine on it (should have wiped off the dust before taking the pic LOL)
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Gday all.
Finally got back to fiddling with this game after a long break .
Last work I had done was replace and repin the connectors for the rectifier board .
Also replaced the rectifier board with one rebuilt by another AA member as my other one is original and needs rebuilding itself after all these years as voltages are missing/out of spec.
In my haste last time to power up and measure voltages I had forgotten to check resistance between active /neutral etc at the plug .
The design of these old Bally’s where the transformer is wired directly to the back of the rectifier board and active and neutral traces are beside each other is very bad IMO .
When I plugged it in with the rectifier board back in position inside the head there was a bang and smoke (oops) and it tripped the RCD in the fuse box .
I suspect active and neutral were touching because I had left too much wire exposed and had not taken enough care when I remounted the rectifier board .
Anyhoo .. the game has sat untouched for around 13 months till today .
Today I reterminated active/neutral wires on the rectifier board and ensured they are separated when I remounted the board in the backbox.
Measured 10ohms between active and neutral at the plug so went ahead and plugged in J2 only (cabinet .. ie transformer) . (and J4 disconnected on MPU board)
Powered up with no bang/smoke and measured voltages on Rectifier board as
TP1 5.7V DC , TP2 170V DC, TP3 11.9V DC, TP4 6.65V DC and TP5 42V DC .. so all in spec
I then powered off , plugged in J1 (playfield) and J3 (G.I, solenoids etc) and remeasured test points
TP1 5.7V , TP2 234V , TP3 13.6V , TP4 6.5V and TP5 42.7V . Also checked C23 on solenoid driver board and it is well within spec.
About to do some reading but thought I would ask those here in the know .. is TP2 jumping to 234V normal ??
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About to do some reading but thought I would ask those here in the know .. is TP2 jumping to 234V normal ??
Yepp thats quite normal *%* *%* this is due to the input filter cap C26 in the HV regulator section. Your voltage on TP3 rose as well for the same reason (filter cap C23).
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About to do some reading but thought I would ask those here in the know .. is TP2 jumping to 234V normal ??
Yepp thats quite normal *%* *%* this is due to the input filter cap C26 in the HV regulator section. Your voltage on TP3 rose as well for the same reason (filter cap C23).
Gday Mitch
Thanks for the reply .. good to know .
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^^^ great score going to enjoy watching this beauty come back to life
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After I posted my question I realised all was normal so went ahead and plugged in CPU board and game booted up normally (has an Altech MPU board, the other boards are originals)
Found a few problems such as i had forgotten to solder the wires back on the lugs for the drop target reset coil LOL
Downloaded the schematics and realised I have a switch matrix problem to track down because flipper return lane switches, outhole switch, left POP bumper and Grotto are not scoring and associated coils not firing .
All these switches are on the same column on the switch matrix so will look into that issue when i have some more time .
Also need to check Display voltage .
I'm happy that the game is close to playable now instead of being dead as a dodo the last 13 months or more.
I could well have a connector problem because so far i have only replaced housings and repinned the Rectifer board connectors .
Also have a cab repaint to do with this game too .
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Good to see your getting back into it, can't wait to see it finished
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Good to see your getting back into it, can't wait to see it finished
Yeah me too %.%
Well , had a bit more of a fiddle last night after work and found I have continuity on the switch return wire on all 5 switches and back to MPU board connector . Checked display voltage at 175V DC .. dropped it down to 150 .
Will check switch diodes while waiting on a parts order from RTBB including some .100 connectors (I only have .156 on hand)
Must pull my finger out now the weather is warmer and get stuck into the cab repaint methinks .
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For anyone interested .. repinning the relevant wire on the switch matrix connector fixed the issue .
Game is now working .. just need to pull out the standup targets to clean/adjust and fix a couple of globes that are out.
When time and motivation permits I will repin the rest of the switch matrix connector as well as all the other connectors to improve reliability.
Next big job on this one will be a full cab respray .
This game is probably a keeper as it is one from my arcade days ()
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Great news, I have fond memories of playing this game
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Good news, glad to hear you can now enjoy a game on it. ^^^
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Have done a lot more repinning on this game since my last post and replaced a couple of trannies to get some globes working .
Still need to track down why 2x bonus globe refuses to work .
Recently the ball guide plastic next to the extra ball rollover broke . No doubt brittle due to age .
Anyhow , yesterday I made my first ever pinball plastic ^^^
I have never tried cutting perspex before but found it is a bit of a pain .. prone to breaking .. so I clamped it to a thin piece of scrap timber which worked well . (I used a metal blade in my $10 jigsaw).
This is also the first time I had tried removing the metal standoffs from a plastic so now I have learned a couple of new skills .. LOL
Making the plastic took way longer than I thought , mainly because when drilling holes you need to start with the smallest bit and work up one size at a time which is a bit painful . I made one of the standoff holes a tad too large but no biggie.
I also cut a protector for my new CFTBL Kiss Lane plastic while I was at it
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I would recommend you use polycarb instead of acrylic (perspex) as it is almost impossible to break and you wont get the edge chipping whilst cutting it like you can with acrylic.