The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Mr Pinbologist on September 10, 2010, 10:01:04 PM
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Hi guys, here are a few pics of the next in my repair/resto que for other people, Wms Travel Time. This one belongs to Cam (big dog) who brought this one down quite a few months ago now, so its time i got a start on it now that im almost done with the Wildfyre PF. So with Cams permission i'll be documenting the work done here, restoring the PF.
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Nice one apart from where the flippers have rubbed and the mylar lifting the playfield looks to be in excellent condition.
Looking forward to another great restore #*#
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My first task was to get the game up and running which has been done, rebuilding all of the steppers and score reels etc. Cam has also supplied me with a lot of new parts to go onto the PF as it gets done. The original instructions from him were to just get the game going, and i suggested that i do the PF resto since i'll have it pulled apart replacing bumper parts/ flippers etc, which Cam agreed to. it'll get the touch up/remylar treatment same as i just completed on QuickDraw.
While getting the game going it was necessary to repair a broken switch actuating arm which i found in the bottom of the cabinet, the 2nd pic shows how i chose to repair this lever... not real pretty i know, but it is functional!
The game is about 90% working now.. enough for me to start the PF restore.
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And a few pics of the playfield. Notice in the 3rd pic the holes drilled into the top of the PF just above the top middle rollover lane.. the things people do ^&^
First thing to do will obviously be remove everything, and then remove that mylar, hopefully without damaging too much of the paintwork, which i'll be starting on soon... Stay tuned!!
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A cool Williams title - I really like the flipper placement and the kicker in the centre. Looks to be a solid base for a resto.
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Any thoughts as to why they drilled holes in the playfield ^&^
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travel Time was the first machine i ever owned.. got it from a guy in a pub for FREE over 25 years ago. Mine was the SEGASA version ( on IPDB) and i eventually sold it on a year ago. It was in beautiful condition and i found it hard to let go..
Sold it with a spare set of plastics.
Will be watching this thread
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Any thoughts as to why they drilled holes in the playfield ^&^
id say because they were a DICKHEAD and a !!@
whoever did that needed their arse kicked *%*
That will not be an easy fix, the wood has been raised where the screw had gone in.
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What year model is this machine. ?
The nice pastel colours of this era were definately pleasing to the eye. Looking forward to seeing it finished. Backglass ? ?
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What year model is this machine. ?
The nice pastel colours of this era were definately pleasing to the eye. Looking forward to seeing it finished. Backglass ? ?
1973 vintage. Cam, (the games owner) has the backglass
http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?name=travel+time>ype=EM&mfgid=413&qh=checked&searchtype=advanced
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What year model is this machine. ?
The nice pastel colours of this era were definately pleasing to the eye. Looking forward to seeing it finished. Backglass ? ?
Is not pastel mate.. the pink and orange are fluoro colour... is a very bright PF.
There are differences in the artwork though in the Segasa and Williams versions, both in backglass and plastics....... the blue in Segasa version is much richer, but i think its the yellow thats weaker.
Interestingly the Segasa who it was licensed to had more detail in the art on the plastics than the original Williams version. Segasa also did not have the strange looking eye lashes on the girl in the BG
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Looks very nice - out of interest, will the cab get repainted?
AND - Using a Stern Galaxy as a workbench? Blasphemy! !!!
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Looks very nice - out of interest, will the cab get repainted?
AND - Using a Stern Galaxy as a workbench? Blasphemy! !!!
no just the PF will be done at this stage, i've not been asked to do the cab repaint.
Speaking if which.. the Galaxy is waiting for a Cab repaint, it too is a job for someone else and not one of my own (unfortunately)
I'll do a resto thread on that one too when i start on it *%*
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Looks very nice - out of interest, will the cab get repainted?
AND - Using a Stern Galaxy as a workbench? Blasphemy! !!!
no just the PF will be done at this stage, i've not been asked to do the cab repaint.
Speaking if which.. the Galaxy is waiting for a Cab repaint, it too is a job for someone else and not one of my own (unfortunately)
I'll do a resto thread on that one too when i start on it *%*
Galaxy repaint is interesting. The paint that was used for both Galaxy and Meteor I restored was more of a latex type paint - Very thick and durable. I tried to repaint the head surround on the Galaxy and I found it difficult, due to the fact that the wood was different from the rest of the body.
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no just the PF will be done at this stage, i've not been asked to do the cab repaint.
Considering what you do to PF's and BG's - the cab would be childs play! ^^^
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Hi guys, this afternoon i got a start on Travel Time, started removong the top side components ready for mylar removal and cleaning.
I removed all of the plastics and posts from the top side, and left the bumpers in place for the time being, the broke out the heat gun and decided to have a go at removing the mylar to see how it would look. Once i reached the bumpers i would remove them, then remove the rest of the mylar.
This mylar had been stuck straight over the wear spots at some stage in its life (see last pic.. no hole in the mylar!!)
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Well the mylar came off without too much resistance, and im pleased to say not much paint lift $#$
2nd pic shows the worst bit, just above the kickout hole. And most of the mylar glue came up with the mylar as well so i didnt have much glue to clean up. there were also mylar rings around the bumpers which must've been there from new, so i removed these too.
Next a clean up with Prepsol and rags removed the little bit of glue that was there, the bumper areas where the bumper mylar rings had been were the most painful bits for clue removal. There was a small amount of ball swirl marks under the mylar, A quick cleanup with Magic eraser and isocol made these areas look much better.. its coming up pretty good already!! I ws very careful with the ME, so as not to go through the paint, and make more work for myself (like i did with quickdraw) @.@
Now i'm ready to start the touchup process!
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I've been busy with this resto over the last few days, in between working on Quick Draw and finishing off the Wildfyre PF :D
First thing i did was to clean up and fill some of the wear spots with primer, so i could later on block sand them back level to repaint.
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Some of the white areas, i decided to completely repaint, as i thought they were looking rather shabby. i was originally only going to touch up what was needed and leave the rest, but i decided to go the extra mile as im so bloody fussy. :lol
In these pics i'm re-doing the area above the kickout hole.. i'll re-do each section one at at time, masking off and respraying. I'm Using the same auto acrylic white i used on the Wildfyre PF, the colour is called morroccan beige.
last pic shows the area below the kickout hole that i did next.
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I ended up doing most of the botton white sections below the kickout hole, all the areas with text, so i had to mask off the text. I used clear contact for this, and cut out with a scalpel as close to the text as i dared to!!
The last pic shows the end result. Next thing to do was to sand the paint back with 1200 grit wet&dry paper and Windex, to level the paint out nice n smooth, and to remove the sharp edge where the contact mask was.
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This morning after sanding the paint back with 1200 grit, i got a bit ahead of myself and started touching up the text. 2nd pic shows me doing the touchup with waterbased acrylic paint.. and yes i slipped a bit on that 't' im painting @.@ a bit of careful scraping with a scalpel fixed this when it had dried ^^^
i did the fluorescent pink as well.. i still had some work to do on these when the pic was taken.
And the last pic shows where im at with it at the moment. I wont be able to do anymore spraypainting today due to the crap weather here, and that i'll be away in Tamworth for the rest of the day after midday.
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Looks like an interesting game and I'm sure cam will be stocked with your work
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Great progress, Mitch. Whites are difficult to do as the original paint fades or yellows with time.
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Dan ,I look on in awe.His just a pinball fixing machine,can not beat him on the things also,matter of fact can not beat anyone !!! best thing is not to do anything and watch on as we all know it will be another great restore job..The best will be that pinball pool of his as the before to after photos will be awesome.
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can not beat him on the things also,matter of fact can not beat anyone !!!
Hey Cam im still eagerly waiting for that rematch on Vortex *%* *%* *%* *%* you and fathom man caught me on a bad day, and i need to redeem myself !!!
Ur GOIN' DOWN big fella :lol :lol
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QUICK UPDATE:
I decided that i was going to repaint the flouroescent pink and orange coloured areas completely, even though they look ok in the pictures from the previous posts, in real life they are badly faded as i discovered when i removed one of the timber rails. Sorry i didnt get a before pic of the area covered by the rail, where the pink finished up under, and it may not have showed too bad in a pic anyway. but trust be it was faded! Indeed looking at the before and after pics in this update its difficcult to tell the difference!
This is my SECOND attempt at the pink areas, as my first try over the weekend didnt turn out too well, so i had to take all of the paint off and start again ^&^ ^&^ the colour ended up too dark the first time, due to one or two too many coats (it looked too red rather that pink) @.@
Im using White Knight brand spraypaints for this work. With the fluoro paint it is neccessary to apply a white basecoat first, to ensure maximum brightness and a good even coverage. So after sanding the pink areas with 400 grit wet&dry paper and windex, and wiping down with Prepsol and cloth, i then masked off the the pink areas using clear Contact book covering and cut out the areas to be painted with a scalpel. 2nd pic shows the white sprayed on and before removing the contact, and 3rd pic shows after contact removal. some small divots and hollows were filled at this stage with white paint, just dabbing it on with a toothpick into the hollows, which would be blocked sanded out later when dry.
4th pic shows the area after sanding with 400 grit wet&dry and windex and masked off for the fluoro pink.
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These pics show the fluoro pink being sprayed on...
1st pic is after two coats... three were done all up and checked against the original paint from under the left timber rail which can be seen in the 2nd pic, as can be seen its a pretty close match!!
And finally a pic after the masking had been removed.. these pictures really dont do it justice, as it looks MUCH better in person. And especially when you compare the before and after pic, they dont show much difference, but believe me, in person, the original paint had faded to almost white in comparison with the paint hidden under the left timber rail! it looks really sweet..LITERALLY!! makes me want to eat some musk sticks.. :lol :lol :lol :lol
EDIT: i forgot to mention that when i masked off for the fluoro pink, i masked the rest of the PF so as to allow the pink to overlap onto the black key lines a bit, and i will retouch the black lines later after i have blocked back the colours with 1200 grit and smoothed out the paint edges. Retouching the black will be easy as the black can still be seen due to the translucency of the fluoro paint, as you can see in the pics.
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As cam said you a Machine mitch
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As cam said you a Machine mitch
+1!
We need a new forum sub-section - call it Mitch's resurrections... $%$
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Every time I see one of your playfield restos, I think to myslef "Gotta pull my finger out and try this".. But then again, you make it look easy, Mitch ^^^
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mmmm musk sticks, looking great mate *%*
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Very very good match with that Pink Mitch .
I'm soon going to start on my second ever PF touchups with my Gulfstream .. keep seeing yours though and just know I have no hope of ever coming even close to you .. you've raised the bar so damn High %.%
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Very very good match with that Pink Mitch .
I'm soon going to start on my second ever PF touchups with my Gulfstream .. keep seeing yours though and just know I have no hope of ever coming even close to you .. you've raised the bar so damn High %.%
Nah dont think like that mate!! I think most (if not all) of the tricks i use could be done by anyone really if they take their time and not try to rush it ^^^
i have picked up a few ideas in my time here on AP that i have put into practice on my own restores (and lately other peoples) especially regarding work on playfields *%* and i dont consider myself an expert by any means, as i always learn something new with each game i restore or repair.
i have to say i always appreciate the kind words from you guys about my resto work i do ^^^ its good knowing my efforts are appreciated and it inspires me to go that little bit further with each resto *%*
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Hi peoples, just a small update;
Yesterday and today i got some of the fluoro orange done, in the clock section of the pf in the middle.
While sanding the pf in preparation for the pink, i noticed a couple of spots where i rubbed thru the black key lines (which will be redone anyway), and noticed the difference in the orange which was hidden under the black, showing me just how faded the orange colour is as well! I didnt get a pic of the different shades of orange, it would've been hard to get a decent pic showing this... trust me it is faded!! which has prompted me to want to redo all of the orange as well.
Anyway once again i started masking off for the white basecoat (i had sanded the whole area previously), 1st pic, i have used blue masking tape for the outside edges and book contact in the middle for the inserts and text.
BTW yesterday i spent some time removing and relevelling these inserts as necessary, flattening them by sanding them on 80 grit sandpaper, followed by 400 grit. Then reglueing them in with PVA glue which seems wo work well holding them in nice and firm once dried. the three top inserts i ended up leaving alone, as when i tried removing them the ply was starting to separate.. even after heating them ^&^ so i ended up leaving them in, and since these ones were not too bad anyway was another reason to leave them.
Pics show the progress;
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And today after the white had been given time to cure, i rubbed it back lightly with 400 grit wet&dry and windex, to level it out a bit and to remove the rough edges.
Then... once again i had to mask it off for the fluoro orange, this time masking off so as to allow a bit of overlap onto the black key lines, which can be sanded lightly with 1200 grit later when im ready to do the black lines.
Pics show the progress... last pic is where im at with it at the moment $#$
Once again, this colour is fairly transparent like the pink was.. it can be seen where i masked off. I wasnt too worried about accuracy when cutting out here, as it will be well and truly hidden once its sanded smooth and the black is redone
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Looks great Mitch . How do you stop from respraying the whole PF when the areas you touchup look so good ?
Thanks for the encouragement by the way ^^^
Cheers
Dave
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Looks great Mitch . How do you stop from respraying the whole PF when the areas you touchup look so good ?
Thanks for the encouragement by the way ^^^
Cheers
Dave
Thanks Dave.. and re my encouragement, you're most welcome ^^^
I only repaint whole areas like i've done here, when i absolutely have to... ie a large area of one solid colour that is either badly faded as these areas were, or if there is a patch of wear that would be difficult to match exactly.. so i'll repaint the whole area in a close, but not exact shade of that colour. that way the repairs wont be noticeable because the whole area has been painted, and so long as the wear holes are properly primed/filled and levelled first.
In really busy/high detailed areas of pf art with several colours and some wear its much easier to hide a slightly off colour match.. it'll be less noticeable due to the detailed artwork and still look good. So only the fluoro colours (pink and orange), and the white will be completely redone on this pf, the rest is pretty good and i'll only have to do the 'paint&smear' trick for the few spots of pinhole wear that are present., with waterbased acrylics, as per Clays pf restoration guides.
hope that all makes sense :D :D
Cheers... Mitch
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Thanks for detailed explanation Mitch .. yeah makes sense
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Hi guys just another small update for now:
Today i managed to get the black done around the "clock" area and inserts, which i did the fluoro paint on in the previous posts.
First thing i did was to re-mark the outer and inner black circles edges. To do this i used a compass with a sharpie pen to get nice neat circles, that i could paint up to. i stuck several layers of masking tape down so i wouldnt be sticking the compass pint into the pf surface too much! After finding the center by measuring (and some trial and error!) i ended up with nice neat circles ready for the painting step.
Next i marked in the black lines around the inserts, again i just marked the borders with lines to paint up to. I used waterbased acrylic paint and a fine brush to do the black, rather than just using the sharpie ink, as the end results are much better i think. Plus i used the acrylic paint to fill in any minor gaps between the pf wood and the insert.. works a treat when done!!
In the last pic the end result is shown, i still have some minor touchup to do here, a few spots of black to fix up where i went over the sharpie lines slightly, (i did it all freehand) and a couple of small spots of the fluoro colour to brush touch up.
Sorry its just a small update this time.. Im hoping to get some more done over the weekend, The crap weather here is holding me up big time, as its not great weather for painting, especially spraypainting!! will post more over the weekend.. weather permitting!!
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The weather can be a real pain sometimes. Is that clock flat?? as it looks like its 3d in the photos
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The weather can be a real pain sometimes. Is that clock flat?? as it looks like its 3d in the photos
Not sure what you mean Daniel, what have you been drinking?? :lol :lol :lol :lol sorry mate just joking
No seriously the pf IS flat, just the camera angle distorted the pic a bit i think, as i got in close for the pics. i can assure you its all good in the flesh, nice n symetrical ^^^
so long as Cam is happy with what im doing on his pf I'M happy
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I got a few more touchups done today despite the shitty cold weather here, Armidale really is the arse end of the universe i reckon!!
Anyway, armed with heaters to warm the garage and a 150 watt floodlight shining onto the pf to warm the pf surface, seems to work well.
The sections of dark green had a few spots of paint loss, in the form of white dots which needed to be filled. I ended up using a green permanent marker to touch these spots up..
Pics show the results. This area shown wasnt all that bad really, i had tried on another worse section first but didnt get any pics &^&
This worked better that expected, just dabbing the marker onto the dots, then wiping off the excess ink with a cloth dampened with Prepsol. I know it seems like a bit of a dodgey way to do this repair, but it worked well after a few wipes with the cloth and Prepsol and wont be easy to spot when the PF is finished.
I'll give it a bit of a polish up later on, it looks a bit dull at the moment becaused i gave it a light sand with 1200 grit wet&dry before touchup was done.
The pf will be mylar covered just as all my pf restores.
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Also i finished off the white section in the centre of the pf today, which still had a couple of sections i hadnt done before, so it all looks one colour now $#$
the newly painted sections still have to be sanded back with 1200 grit, not yet done when these pics were taken, that will be done tomorrow.
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And now a pic of what has been done so far..
i'll add more soon as i get some more done, maybe tomorrow.. i still have to level a few inserts, and have a couple of other areas to re-do. plus i have to fix the area above the top rollover lanes where some tool had drilled holes above the lanes..
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What a huge improvement Mitch . Well done as usual . ^^^ Cam will be very happy no doubt.
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Looks great, it will be stunning to see before and after pics side by side.
When you use the clear book covering contact to mask areas for painting at what stage during the paint drying do you lift it up?
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The weather can be a real pain sometimes. Is that clock flat?? as it looks like its 3d in the photos
Not sure what you mean Daniel, what have you been drinking?? :lol :lol :lol :lol sorry mate just joking
No seriously the pf IS flat, just the camera angle distorted the pic a bit i think, as i got in close for the pics. i can assure you its all good in the flesh, nice n symetrical ^^^
so long as Cam is happy with what im doing on his pf I'M happy
Whats that bloody game with the spinning wheel in the middle of the PF? Gofers?
The photo give the illusion that the round graphics you have touched-up, is one of those wheel things!
Looks seriously nice - when are you moving to Melbourne? #@#
EDIT: Drinking? If Daniel has got stuck into what's behind his bar - he might be a bit quiet for the next few days... **)
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Looks great, it will be stunning to see before and after pics side by side.
When you use the clear book covering contact to mask areas for painting at what stage during the paint drying do you lift it up?
i usually remove the contact soon as the paint is dry to touch, being acrylic paint.. means about 30 mins. The paint has to be touch dry, i have had problems lately of the new paint lifting when the contact is removed ^&^ mainly due to the crappy weather here and the paint not drying quick enough.. and me being impatient :lol
this didnt happen with the fluoro paints, which is an enamel i think, and i was able to remove the contact before the the paint had fully dried with no problems.
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okay, today i spent some time removing and re-levelling a few inserts.
The ones in the first couple of pics i sanded flat before reglueing them back into the pf.
last two pics, these inserts werent too bad so i left them in place, just making sure they were level, tapping them up slightly, and running some superglue into the joins, then touching up the black circles. I did this by hand using waterbased acrylic and a fine brush. I still had a bit of fixing up to do when these pics were taken, just some scraping back with a scalpel where i had slipped a bit due to hand shake ( most noticeable in the 3rd pic), which has since been done.
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heres a bit of a 'before and after' of a couple of the insert surrounding paint touchups. On these in addition to doing the black, i also did the fluoro orange as well, jonce again using a fine brush.
3rd pic shows the start of repairing the top rollover lane area where some dickhead had drilled two holes ^&^
here i have cleaned it up a bit with a drill bit to remove the raised bits where the screw had raised the wood in preparation for filling.
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i used a tiny bit of auto body filler to fill the holes, same as i did on my Quickdraw pf.
Once it had dried i carefully sanded it flat with some 80 grit sandpaper, some of the lettering WAS removed in this step, which was hard to avoid!
3rd pic shows the yellow touchup, done once again with waterbased acrylic, the colour i used is called cadmium yellow, and matched pretty well, it looks better in the flesh than in the pics ^^^
And finally the missing/damaged text was re-done, using the same fluoro pink i did the other touchups with, i just sprayed some paint into the lid off the spraycan, and painted the text back in with the fine brush. It took some time to get it to look the way it does in the last pic here.. was fiddly to do but i think i have it to a point where it looks acceptable.
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Time for another update::
1st pic shows the next area i would be fixing.. Originally i planned only on redoing the fluoro orange here and leaving the white as it was, it was ok with only slight pinhole wear spots. But i decided to redo it as well for a couple of reasons; One so it would match the rest of the already repainted white areas, and two; since i had to paint a white basecoat for the orange it just made sense to just do the lot white and then mask off and spray on the orange, which would make things easier and give a better end result.
After giving the area a light sand back wwith 400 grit wet&dry, first thing i had to do was to trace the area onto tracing paper so i could mark in later where the 'special' text and where the bits to be painted orange and pink had to be masked off. I ended up utilising a little trick i had used on the Wildfyre pf, by going over the black line marked area with a fine sharpie pen before spraying on the white. Sharpie ink has a tendancy to bleed back up thru paint a bit so i make use of that to give me a guide later on as to where the black lines and markings are, (did this for the "special" text and the pink triangled area around the "start clock" text. Anyway after sanding and masking off for the white, i had to wipe the area with Prepsol first and THEN do the black sharpie where i wanted it to show thru the paint.
4th pic shows after the white had been sprayed.. the sharpied markings are hard to see due to the camera flash but they showed up enough for me to use them later on.
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Ok.. 1st pic i have re-marked in the black lines and "special" text. this was after i had given the paint a sand back with 400 wet&dry and windex.
next i masked off for the pink paint and applied it.
In the last pic, im marling put where the orange paint will go... i stuck the contact down first, then placed a piece of carbon paper down , then the tracings done earlier, and simply traced the outline for the orange onto the carbon paper.. ready to be cut out with a scalpel!! worked a treat!!
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In the 1st pic here you can see the outline for the orange traced onto the contact.
The 'special' lettering i sprayed straight over it with the orange, planning on hand painting it in later, which you can see i have started on in the last pic.. still some tidying up to here, ie the black will be retouched up on the text once im finished with the white.. its still a little patchy at the moment, it'll take another coat or two to get it all uniform. will be redone tomorrow arvo..
Also i have to redo the 'when lit' text.... no i havent forgotten it! :lol :lol that will be done last
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Time for another update:
well the touchups are now finished $#$
Spent the last couple of weekends, re-doing the fluoro orange at the top of the pf, as well as rest of the white areas so they all match. And today i finished off the area above the flippers, re-doing the missing text. YES the "or" and "when lit" are waterslide decals, so dont crucify me for using them. these were made from a new laser printer decal paper i found and i had been keen to try. Unlike the inkjet decal paper it is not necessary to spray clear acrylic over these decals before using them, meaning they should be less noticeable under the mylar.
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Here is a shot of the PF, touchups all done and ready for the mylar application. and a pic of the mylar being cut and made ready to apply.
also i forgot to mention, that i sanded and re-cleared the top arch section.
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and finally pics of the mylar going on... and the end result!!
Now its almost ready for reassembly $#$
i just have to cut out the areas wher posts etc screw down, and cut out rollover slots, target holes etc.
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man i love your posts Mitch always very inspiring that has come up a treat ^^^
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The mylar application is excelent - Do you block sand to get all the touch-ups level ?
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Top work Mitch ^^^ Excellent results there.
Cheers
Dave
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I like this machine, my brother has the one and I have offered to buy it, however he won't part with it. Great resto !!!! Excellent work !!!!
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Thanks for the kind words guys ^^^
Nino, yes i do block sand the touchups to level them out a bit, with 400 grit wet&dry and a little bit of Windex, followed by 800 grit.
Today i'll start cutting out the holes for where the posts screw down and for the rollovers etc, and start reassembling things
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Just a few pics showing the pf going back together finally $#$
all of the posts have been cleaned and every screw head has been polished to a nice shine.
I ended up having to fill most of the screwholes as they were stripped out. I used pieces of bamboo kebab skewers cut and glued in, works a treat!!
did the same thing on my last few restores as well.
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Looks fantastic how bright is that playfield now @@*
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Looks fantastic how bright is that playfield now @@*
well lets just say that the photos dont do it justice at all in showing up the fluoro colours. here are some before and after pics. I tried all kinds of thing to get pics, flash on flash off, different lighting etc, trying to get the best pics to show off the brightness of the new paint on this pf.
the new fluoro colours were pretty much an exact match for the old unfaded colours i found, the pink under the side wooden guides when i removed them, and the original orange i found underneath sections of black lines that had worn away, allowing to check the colour match there before spraying.
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That is looking great! Thanks for the update. #*#
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Your the man Mitch another machine saved keep up the great work
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Looking amazing!
Good tip on the bamboo skewers - do matchsticks work just as well?
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Looks like new . Well done Mitch ^^^
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G'day all, very quick update:
haven't gotten too much done to this game lately due to other commitments, but i have started refitting all of the removed items from underneath the pf, targets, kickers etc. I got to refitting these rollover buttons, only to find.. and i have come across this a few times with using mylar on the PFs, that when installed the button sits slightly below the pf surface when pushed in, due to the thickness of the mylar i use... which would result in stuck balls!! not good *.*
here is my solution.. pretty self explanatory in these pics, after removing the clip (carefully *!@ ) i remove the large washer from the underside of the rollover and place it on the top side over the button shaft! Resulting in the rollover sitting nice and level with the pf surface when the ball rolls over it.. and less chance of stuck balls :D
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Also i now have the top arch and wooden guide rails all repainted!!
I had to get the colour custom mixed, i took the top arch into the paint shop where my bandmate works and got him to match the colour for me, and put it into spray cans, i got two cans of the colour mixed, he got the colour match pretty damn good ^^^ Its acrylic paint as i usually use on PFs and aprons etc.
I just got the top arch finished just a couple of hours ago.. stripped it back to bare metal, wiped it over with Prepsol and hit it with some etch primer, let it dry and rubbed it back with 400 grit wet&dry and water, then wiped it down with Prepsol again before spraying a about 3 coats of the colour.
I'll let these items cure for a day or so before i refit them to the PF, will post more pics when done!
With two cans of this colour mixed, plus a touchup can of the leftover colour that was given to me as well, i ended up with leftover paint, which, being an exact match for the colour on my Klondike pin BG, i'll use that paint to do some 'much needed' repairs to my Klondike backglass #*#
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I got the wood guides and and top arch fitted this afternoon $#$
Before fitting the top arch piece i had to first polish up the ball gate and the metal mount for the rebound rubber, as well as the screw heads. The new rebound rubber from the rubber kit has been fitted as well.
Nearly finished now... i only have to polish up the ball trough components, and rebuild and install the bumpers (waiting on the new bumper bodies)..... and its pretty much finished!!
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Great work as usual Mitch, looks very tidy ^^^
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Gday Mitch . I only have one word .. Wow ! ^^^
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yep..she's looking a treat Mitch. Well done ^^^
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The cleanness and the colours on that look sensational. Seriously great work.
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Time for the final update on Travel Time;
Yes its pretty much finished now
I spent some time over the weekend cleaning and refitting the ball trough components, rebuilding the outhole kicker, and removing, cleaning and resoldering the bases of most of the pf lamp sockets.
I have an old Wms Superstar pf here that i have been using for parts, and it provided a few items that went into getting this game going. mostly coil stops, a flipper coil base, plus the coil mounting bracket pictured in the 1st pic.. notice the one on the right, the hole was worn elongated, so one flipper coil was flopping around!! One of the flippers had no coil sleeve at all so im guessing that this is the result of that!!
Also Cam had provided me with a couple of relay coils for the hold relay and the "zero position" relay, which activates when the PF "clock" is at zero position. Now i had initially got the game going without replacing these, but seeing as Cam had bought them, and how burnt the originals were i thought i should fit them for him. It was lucky i did, because the originals literally fell apart when i removed them!! The new coils are shown in the 2nd pic. Notice the yellow wire connected between them... I have no idea why this was done, looking at the pic of the schematic, someone has unhooked the relay coil from one side of a set of contacts on the hold relay, and connected it to the other side... which in effect was making the zero position relay being energised while ever the game was on and in game over mode ^&^ just why this was done is beyond me, it was effectively allowing two coils to cook instead of one, for no good reason that i can think of !@# ^&^
Anyway i rewired the coil back to standard (4th pic) and i have tested the game and it works was it should.
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When the game was brought to me and opened up, one of the chime bars was broken. I remembered i had some old chime bars in my bits n pieces, so i found an old Gottlieb bar that would be able to modify to fit, so i took the liberty of fitting it, even though i wasnt asked to do so. Cam generally tells me to do what ever i think needs doing to his games, and the chime bar i had would likely never have been used so i thought i'd do him a favour and replace the missing chime *%*
As part of the modifying process i shortened it slightly to alter its pitch, so that it sounded right with the other chimes, and i gave them a bit of a polish up while i was working on them. They sound really sweet in operation too!!
And finally a couple of pics of the finished playfield!! well one plastic was missing.. i dont know if Cam has that at home or not, so he may have to try to locate one.
I'd never played this game before so i was really keen to get to play it when i had it finished. The timed gameplay instead of 3 or 5 balls is really interesting, actually its a really good player i think!! really fun game *%* So now i get to play test it until Cam comes back here to pick it up #@# #@#
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Wow, thanks Mitch,I've seen it in person and it looks better than pic's.also thanks for the new years entertanment it was a shock to see you up on stage playing lead (great songs) and most of all," shit man you never told me you could sing!''. Wife carn't stop raving about it. Once again ,Thanks heaps and please don't get to high a score to beat @.@
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That playfield looks "factory" fresh to me - well done ^^^
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Nice job mate ^^^
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Another great job mitch your skills are fantastic and your posts are really worth reading thanks again
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My brother owns a TT as well. It's a great game to play. Offered to buy it from him many times, however he won't part with it. !!! A great job on the restore ! @@*