The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Pinball Trader => Parts wanted => Topic started by: vanhos on October 30, 2012, 09:41:58 PM
-
Hi.
Just looking for a f14 tomcat display. I have two faulty ones given to me from previous owner. But im looking to just buy a new display i had a reply from pinscore they are out of stock at moment just checking if anyone out there might have one. The Model PS-11610 supersedes the Model PS-12232-P77. So either one in working condition would be great. Im not to keen in trying to repair one.
-
I am happy to have a look at the old ones and work out if it is the glass or electronics for you if you don't get any where
-
Check with rtbb (greg) he is the exclusive pinscore distributor for Aust
-
Checked with rtbb. They said pinscore are out of stock.
-
I have acouple of issues with this machine. Im thinking having a working display would make it easyer.
After starting a game it kicks out a extra ball. So when u go to play you second ball you carnt get 2 balls up the ramp.
Also no sound at all just muffled noise.
So im thinking a display that works would help.
Beaky will pm you later.
-
fault on power supply pics of front and back. display section of the board.
-
just few more pics
-
the large transistor on the right should be (Q1) MJE15030 and the one on the left (Q3) MJE15031
-
Yeah that is what i have. Any idea whats blowing fuse.
-
I wrote it back to front shouldnt post with the kids hanging of u. Sorry about the confusion.
-
either at least one blown transistor or diode.
I would start by testing Q1 if the display you sent me was plugged into it,
it killed Q1 on mine the moment i plugged it in and turned it on so if it is blowing fuses with out the display connected thats where i would start.
or you can test the transistors for shorts with your multimeter set to continuity or diode test, it won't prove that they are ok but if it beeps or shows a very low voltage drop / short on diode test then it will tell you that the transistor is stuffed.
test all the transistors and diodes, if you replace all the shorted ones after doing this test and it still blows fuses then you are going to have to remove all the semiconductors in the hv section and test them one at a time.
you can also try cutting one of the leads on D4 and replacing the fuse, power it up and see if the fuse blows. then resolder the cut lead on D4 and then cut a lead on D3 and try again.
if you look at the schematic you will see which diode does the + side and which does the - side and you should be able to isolate it to either the + or - assuming both sides are not blowing fuses.
As you know there are high voltages in this section so I would be sure to unplug the machine from the wall before doing any work.