The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: robm on September 23, 2016, 08:01:41 AM
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I've been keen to get into another restoration and had the opportunity to pick up a couple of projects a few weeks back. Here is the first pic of the Creech as found.
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-09-06%2011.25.48_zpszqrupaqs.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-09-06%2011.25.48_zpszqrupaqs.jpg.html)
Overall, it looked pretty good (well compared to some other projects i have had!), cab appeared solid, the machine did fire up, although MPU had corrosion, so switch inputs didn't work, and the DMD was completely garbled. The playfield itself was filthy, but in reasonable condition. SO got it home (with Whitewater and BSD!) and had a closer look.
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8054_zpsti7xtsuu.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8054_zpsti7xtsuu.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8056_zpsznala12w.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8056_zpsznala12w.jpg.html)
Boards were quite clean (except for MPU)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8055_zpsepfa37j5.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8055_zpsepfa37j5.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8053_zpsgxv5jobq.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8053_zpsgxv5jobq.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8052_zpswppxbvwr.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8052_zpswppxbvwr.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8061_zpsen3wodan.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8061_zpsen3wodan.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8057_zpssyazf0su.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8057_zpssyazf0su.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8058_zpsiwfcfly6.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8058_zpsiwfcfly6.jpg.html)
So fired the machine up with a new MPU and DMD, and it all worked, although no sound. Swapped it out for a known working sound board, and had a quick game - everything appeared to work OK, so start the strip down process. It doesn't take long to remove the head and rip the guys out of the main cabinet.
So i started sanding the main cabinet back, and noticed a couple of strange patches where the surface layer of ply seemed quite thin......well, it looks like Mr Termite and his 1 billion mates have been having a party here for the last few years!!
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8066_zpslborgkh2.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8066_zpslborgkh2.jpg.html)
I did have thoughts have rescuing this, but there is no way i could take the risk of not cutting out EVERY bit of termite damage. So fortunately, i had something prepared earlier....
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8068_zpsddjq4irc.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8068_zpsddjq4irc.jpg.html)
This cabinet was destined for another machine, but may as well use it for this one!
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Seems like the Creature was right at home while the game was submerged !
Will follow with interest. This is a game that really POPS when restored. Weave your magic Rob ^^^
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I really need to find a beater and try this sort of stuff....envy the hell outta you guys!
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congrats, nice find,
does the replacement cabinet have the speaker in the centre or to the side? need to the side if you want to run the original holo
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Where do you find these machines! !@#
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if you ever need / want a snackbar mod just let me know.
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if you ever need / want a snackbar mod just let me know.
Thanks mate.
Had today off with the kids, so while they played in the shed, i pulled the playfield apart.
Nothing too dramatic - i tend to just chukc all the screws, nuts and bolts in one container, don't bother labelling stuff, as there are only 3 or 4 different types, and it is fairly obvious when to use a machine screw vs wood screw. I do take a photo of every piece as i remove it, then view the photos in reverse order for reassembly.
There was some mylar around the pops, put the playfield out in out hot North Qld sun for 10 mins, and it peeled off quite nicely - two small areas of art came off, but really quite small.
The worst bit was the mongrel wood screws at the top of the inlanes. The top was flogged out, so i cut a slot with the dremel to remove it with a flat screwdriver
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-09-23%2017.12.10_zpsxbbayzid.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-09-23%2017.12.10_zpsxbbayzid.jpg.html)
So of course, then the screw snapped half way down
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-09-23%2017.12.57_zps7fu8jbie.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-09-23%2017.12.57_zps7fu8jbie.jpg.html)
So then put the vise grip on what was left of the screw....and it sheared off at playfield level GGGGRRRRRRR!!!
So i guess my only option now is to try and centre punch the remaining bit, drill it out with a fine drill bit, then refill the hole
Anyway, this is what it looks like now
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-09-23%2017.55.15_zpswrybq124.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-09-23%2017.55.15_zpswrybq124.jpg.html)
All stripped, with just the rails to be removed, i'm thinking this might be my first KBS Clear coat attempt!
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just noticed you have the metal rails on yours, heard a few reasons to why some had timber and others powder coated steel ones.
that playfield should clean up real nice
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Your getting some very collectable and fun games Rob
I always enjoy reading your resto post re the possum :lol
I will watch with interest Howzat
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Great game, will watch with interest.
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Got a bit more done this arvo. Playfield now completely bare on top, spent some time cleaning with Nifti, Shellite plus magic eraser, then combinations of wax and grease remover, adhesive remover and more shellite, making sure there is no residue where the mylar was removed.
Shot of the playfield with all the other parts nicely organised on the bench behind....
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/P1030410_zps2kjtthb8.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/P1030410_zps2kjtthb8.jpg.html)
I spent some time also prepping the cabinet - even though it is new, still required a reasonable amount of work in terms of grain filling the ply. Used a fairly runny form of bog (comes in a soft bag), so it will run into most of the grain. Got one go at all sides of the new cab, and sanded down to 180 grit paper, then filled a few more areas.
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/P1030411_zpspeb0bxmx.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/P1030411_zpspeb0bxmx.jpg.html)
Fortunately the backbox was solid, and no termites present! Sanded the artwork off, but the back MDF panel was not in particularly good condition with chunks missing at the bottom and a bit of swelling around the top. So used the trust old 'belt it with a hammer' trick, and will replace with 13mm thick sheet.
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/P1030412_zpsbdqfmgvp.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/P1030412_zpsbdqfmgvp.jpg.html)
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congrats, nice find,
does the replacement cabinet have the speaker in the centre or to the side? need to the side if you want to run the original holo
The new cab has no hole at the moment - i think the safest option is to cut out a hole off to the side in case ever wanting to use an original hologram. The existing one appears cactus. I had my name down with a member here on AA (Dan was it?) that was doing a replacement video one - does anyone know if this is still happening?
Also, be interested in info on the steel vs the timber side rails story - i've only ever played one game on Creech and that was years ago, so don't really have any appreciation of gameplay, and certainly wasn't aware of different side rails - i thought it was a little unusual when i saw the steel ones!
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2 stories I heard of the rails
1 - 2 different playfield manufacturers = 2 different styles
2 - the steel rails were used for playfields that had a little more warp than usual and these straightened it out
last I heard is Dan may do some sometime, alternatively Pinball Dreams has some new repro holos
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So i got all set up for my first attempt at using KBS diamond coat, ad was not really happy with the results. Followed a lot of advice on here, plus talked to a couple of people, and still ended up with quite a few bubbles. The playfield itself seemed to have some sort of issue where it had a few tiny pimples here and there, not sure if this exacerbated the problem. Here is a shot after the first coat.
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-09-30%2021.38.48_zpswon6bg0m.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-09-30%2021.38.48_zpswon6bg0m.jpg.html)
Colours were brilliant, however the bubbles were not! I sanded it back, and had another go with similar results. I came to the conclusion that it is simply too humid here in Townsville at this time of year, or i stuffed something up! Anyway, i have sent the playfield down to Savage Restorations in Brisbane (actually took the opportunity to strip a WH20 at the same time to send both together, but that is a future restoration thread), for him to weave his magic.
So, the progress will go a bit slower, but it gives me plenty of time to concentrate in the cabinet and other stuff.
More time sanding and bogging, and here is the cab after a few primer coats and some black around the edges
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-10-10%2017.05.18_zpssl6sfecz.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-10-10%2017.05.18_zpssl6sfecz.jpg.html)
I had previously been using a poxy Ozito random orbital sander, and @AlexMc loaned me his Makita 150mm sander - amazing the difference a good tool makes, particularly with variable speed. Straight after using it, i went out and bought myself a decent one - after some research, it appears the Metabo SXE450 turbo is a great midrange in price, yet very good quality option. It has 2 sanding modes, where the aggressive will be great for removing old artwork.
Headbox painted
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-10-10%2017.05.34_zpsiutktfp5.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-10-10%2017.05.34_zpsiutktfp5.jpg.html)
Some cabinet hardware painted
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-10-11%2017.05.07_zpsxwkbmzsf.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-10-11%2017.05.07_zpsxwkbmzsf.jpg.html)
These were the legs
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-10-12%2016.29.44_zpsi4x9wmtc.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-10-12%2016.29.44_zpsi4x9wmtc.jpg.html)
I am still not sure whether to go chrome, or maybe paint them green, anyway, for the moment i left them soaking in Oxalic acid for 24 hrs, then a quick hit with steel wool.
After
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-10-13%2018.15.53_zpsio7hn5kf.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-10-13%2018.15.53_zpsio7hn5kf.jpg.html)
Then time to start applying decals. I use a 'plug' for the front door, so the decal doesn't dip down and make it difficult
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-10-15%2011.55.18_zpse0z2g6af.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-10-15%2011.55.18_zpse0z2g6af.jpg.html)
Got my very capable and handy wife to assist with applying the main cab decals. We have a system worked out that is great to apply them. Not sure if her being pregnant is part of the system, but it always seems to be that she is pregnant when we apply decals! (Woohoo, bring on bub number 4 in January).
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-10-15%2015.54.55_zpsiiuw7vfc.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-10-15%2015.54.55_zpsiiuw7vfc.jpg.html)
Mmmm, shiny
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-10-15%2016.36.46_zpsopkwt6za.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-10-15%2016.36.46_zpsopkwt6za.jpg.html)
Cutting the decals for the metal cabinet protectors to be installed
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-10-15%2020.08.35_zpswmjpakgt.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-10-15%2020.08.35_zpswmjpakgt.jpg.html)
At this point i realised i hadn't drilled holes in the front of the cab to mount the door or lockdown bar receiver! Not a biggie, but things i didn't think of when using a new cabinet. I am considering just attaching the lockdown bar receiver only from the inside, so there are 2 less bolts visible on the front - will temporarily mount it and see how strong it feels.
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looking good Rob and was wondering how many kids you are racking up, congrats
you could go with black legs as that was the original for the game.
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The KBS isn't thin enough and so any trapped air wont rise up through the coat and leave a smooth surface. My guess is that you used a roller?
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^^^ thats some good advice for anyone using this product!
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The KBS isn't thin enough and so any trapped air wont rise up through the coat and leave a smooth surface. My guess is that you used a roller?
Yep. Although for the 2nd coat i used a fine brush thingy call a shur line from bunnings. Not sure if this is better? Would you suggest brushing over rolling?
I have basic spray gear i use for painting the cabs, just not sure i have the confidence with clear and spraying! If i did, what size tip would you recommend?
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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The KBS isn't thin enough and so any trapped air wont rise up through the coat and leave a smooth surface. My guess is that you used a roller?
Yep. Although for the 2nd coat i used a fine brush thingy call a shur line from bunnings. Not sure if this is better? Would you suggest brushing over rolling?
I have basic spray gear i use for painting the cabs, just not sure i have the confidence with clear and spraying! If i did, what size tip would you recommend?
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Rob, just my :2cents:
Your workmanship is at a professional level. There are some aspects of High End Restos that you need to consider passing on to professionals. I arrived at this conclusion 4-5 years ago, that no matter if you are a home professional or in the industry, there are simply some things that no matter how hard to try, you can't achieve a playfield that will match the hard work around it.
I don't even blink at the idea of sending a playfield to HRP for restoration. No one in the industry is even in the same galaxy. I'm no expert, but that playfield needs have areas sanded back as the factory clear appears to have burn marks from the globes over time. You don't just clear over it. Your climate is unsuitable unless you have a booth.
The expense of having a playfield cleared is in stripping and re populating. You have done the hard work. There is this stigmata that playfield restorations cost millions of dollars. Trust me, you would be shocked at the price VS finished results.
I've been painting cabinets for 15 years, and I'm still learning, but playfield restoration on these playfields is something I've attempted in small doses, but I've always been concerned about 5 - 10 years from now. Will it hold up ?
Home restorers can use what they like when they like, but your games are right up there with the best. If you need a playfield box, I'll give you one. Shipping is dead easy.
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The KBS isn't thin enough and so any trapped air wont rise up through the coat and leave a smooth surface. My guess is that you used a roller?
Yep. Although for the 2nd coat i used a fine brush thingy call a shur line from bunnings. Not sure if this is better? Would you suggest brushing over rolling?
I have basic spray gear i use for painting the cabs, just not sure i have the confidence with clear and spraying! If i did, what size tip would you recommend?
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Rob, just my :2cents:
Your workmanship is at a professional level. There are some aspects of High End Restos that you need to consider passing on to professionals. I arrived at this conclusion 4-5 years ago, that no matter if you are a home professional or in the industry, there are simply some things that no matter how hard to try, you can't achieve a playfield that will match the hard work around it.
I don't even blink at the idea of sending a playfield to HRP for restoration. No one in the industry is even in the same galaxy. I'm no expert, but that playfield needs have areas sanded back as the factory clear appears to have burn marks from the globes over time. You don't just clear over it. Your climate is unsuitable unless you have a booth.
The expense of having a playfield cleared is in stripping and re populating. You have done the hard work. There is this stigmata that playfield restorations cost millions of dollars. Trust me, you would be shocked at the price VS finished results.
I've been painting cabinets for 15 years, and I'm still learning, but playfield restoration on these playfields is something I've attempted in small doses, but I've always been concerned about 5 - 10 years from now. Will it hold up ?
Home restorers can use what they like when they like, but your games are right up there with the best. If you need a playfield box, I'll give you one. Shipping is dead easy.
Thanks Nino, appreciate the feedback. Its probably the stubborn part of me that just wants to be able to do everything myself, to not only learn some new skills, but also for personal satisfaction in something that i have done myself.
Agree wholeheartedly about your comments that the price of clearing, while it costs something, is not overly cost prohibitive. And that the stripping is the time consuming part. I guess the positive out of all this, is it gives me plenty of time to muck around with all the mechanisms, ramps and wiring harness to really tidy them up. Box for playfield is all sorted - was actually quite fun building that out of some thin ply with our 6 year old son!
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Hey, Rob, reckon you could add a picture of your playfield box, ive possibility got 2 playfields in the queue that might warrant a HRP treatment.
Cheers ^^^
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Hey, Rob, reckon you could add a picture of your playfield box, ive possibility got 2 playfields in the queue that might warrant a HRP treatment.
Cheers ^^^
I don't have a pic sorry mate, and its already sent. I basically used 3mm ply for top and bottom - cut oversize by 20mm or so, in order to wrap the playfields, and some 16mm mdf for the sides, cut it about 70mm high, then just screwed the bottom to the sides, wrapped the playfields up, put them in the box, then screwed the top down to the sides.
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The KBS isn't thin enough and so any trapped air wont rise up through the coat and leave a smooth surface. My guess is that you used a roller?
Yep. Although for the 2nd coat i used a fine brush thingy call a shur line from bunnings. Not sure if this is better? Would you suggest brushing over rolling?
I have basic spray gear i use for painting the cabs, just not sure i have the confidence with clear and spraying! If i did, what size tip would you recommend?
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Believe me.. KBS is much easier to use through a spray gun. Tip I have in my gun is 1.8mm.
Humidity wont be such an issue with KBS as it is slow curing ( same as a polyurethane). Humidity is an issue with clear coats because the clear starts to set with air borne moisture trapped inside it.. not so with KBS.
I thin mine down 50/50 and will do 4 or 5 passes with the gun. It is self leveling and so will roll towards a lower edge etc. Use a spirit level to make sure the PF is dead straight.
NEVER.. I mean NEVER!!! Use a roller.. the amount of air that rollers push into a substance is huge. Those little foam rollers that are used for a smooth coat can work but it is risky.
Ive seen results with a paint brush and its mirror like.. but if the KBS isn't thin enough then it cannot self level and will trap air etc.
Go have another crack at it.. bottom line is that I don't think you can have it too thin, only too thick
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The KBS isn't thin enough and so any trapped air wont rise up through the coat and leave a smooth surface. My guess is that you used a roller?
Yep. Although for the 2nd coat i used a fine brush thingy call a shur line from bunnings. Not sure if this is better? Would you suggest brushing over rolling?
I have basic spray gear i use for painting the cabs, just not sure i have the confidence with clear and spraying! If i did, what size tip would you recommend?
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Rob, just my :2cents:
Your workmanship is at a professional level. There are some aspects of High End Restos that you need to consider passing on to professionals. I arrived at this conclusion 4-5 years ago, that no matter if you are a home professional or in the industry, there are simply some things that no matter how hard to try, you can't achieve a playfield that will match the hard work around it.
I don't even blink at the idea of sending a playfield to HRP for restoration. No one in the industry is even in the same galaxy. I'm no expert, but that playfield needs have areas sanded back as the factory clear appears to have burn marks from the globes over time. You don't just clear over it. Your climate is unsuitable unless you have a booth.
The expense of having a playfield cleared is in stripping and re populating. You have done the hard work. There is this stigmata that playfield restorations cost millions of dollars. Trust me, you would be shocked at the price VS finished results.
I've been painting cabinets for 15 years, and I'm still learning, but playfield restoration on these playfields is something I've attempted in small doses, but I've always been concerned about 5 - 10 years from now. Will it hold up ?
Home restorers can use what they like when they like, but your games are right up there with the best. If you need a playfield box, I'll give you one. Shipping is dead easy.
Thanks Nino, appreciate the feedback. Its probably the stubborn part of me that just wants to be able to do everything myself, to not only learn some new skills, but also for personal satisfaction in something that i have done myself.
Agree wholeheartedly about your comments that the price of clearing, while it costs something, is not overly cost prohibitive. And that the stripping is the time consuming part. I guess the positive out of all this, is it gives me plenty of time to muck around with all the mechanisms, ramps and wiring harness to really tidy them up. Box for playfield is all sorted - was actually quite fun building that out of some thin ply with our 6 year old son!
I know EXACTLY what you mean regarding being Stubborn - I'm exactly the same. But what convinced me to leave clearcoating to the professionals is that I know the work "I" do will last 10 years. The only unknown is the clearcoat. I used a varnish on the "Aces High" - 5 years ago. I can't bring myself to sell it as I want to see how the varnish holds up. It is fine, but I just don't want that call in the future "The clear is flaking" or something similar. I found that working with Tim and Stu, I have absolute confidence in guaranteeing THEIR work on APR playfields is 100%. Even my other clearcoat guy is an absolute perfectionist. I put in countless hours of touch up work and have complete confidence that my work is protected for YEARS.
On the flip-side, APR does electronic repairs for Tim and Stu for their High End Restorations. We lever off each others strengths.
Don't for a minute think you HAVE to do every aspect of a restoration - no one does that "at this level". ^^^
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Been pottering around a bit the last few evenings, just cleaning and painting stuff.
Did a dummy fit of the lockdown bar receiver -hmmm a bit rusty!
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-10-18%2005.44.34_zpsnhynuqoq.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-10-18%2005.44.34_zpsnhynuqoq.jpg.html)
Being a new cabinet, there are no old holes to locate the lockdown bar and other bits, so its a good idea to measure these up properly!
Cleaning the wiring harnesses
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-10-22%2005.54.50_zps98v4wnsl.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-10-22%2005.54.50_zps98v4wnsl.jpg.html)
No pics of installing the head decals, or hardware into the headbox, but got the new rails on (leaving protective wrapping on until its finished), then put the head on. Finally starting to look like a pinball machine!
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8079_zpsjuzc13so.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8079_zpsjuzc13so.jpg.html)
Coin door painted and installed - I was a bit nervous drilling holes for the door, since i had previously forgotten to drill them before painting, but it all lined up OK
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8080_zpse88rix5u.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8080_zpse88rix5u.jpg.html)
I think i quite like the all black look for this machine, the lockdown bar receiver was sanded and painted chrome.
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8081_zpset7gmsy8.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8081_zpset7gmsy8.jpg.html)
Made the wiring all neat by putting it in split tubing
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8085_zpsktzkqw2p.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8085_zpsktzkqw2p.jpg.html)
Transformer painted and cleaned
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8086_zpszszi25cv.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8086_zpszszi25cv.jpg.html)
So actually powered the machine up, and all boots and works - going to look at installing a Pin2DMD display in green to suit the machine
I installed the offset speaker, as per the original design to suit the hologram, i'm thinking of leaving the hologram hardware out (since the holo is cactus) to make the machine look a lot neater inside.
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I seriously think Nifti would have gone out of business if it was not for the Pinball hobby !
I love the look of the black internal cabinet. Great finish as always !
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Had all the screws, posts etc in the tumbler, then polished them all. Also got polishing all the other metal bits. Some before and after pics.
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-11-12%2020.41.50_zps9u1qqthc.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-11-12%2020.41.50_zps9u1qqthc.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-11-13%2009.35.41_zpsrwonmuek.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-11-13%2009.35.41_zpsrwonmuek.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-11-12%2020.50.32_zpsysoculkj.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-11-12%2020.50.32_zpsysoculkj.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-11-13%2009.39.02_zpsilpqaobo.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-11-13%2009.39.02_zpsilpqaobo.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-11-12%2020.41.39_zpseq0ea8nb.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-11-12%2020.41.39_zpseq0ea8nb.jpg.html)
Started by cleaning with 600 wet/dry paper, then polished with a buffing wheel on my drill press. Its not perfect, but a lot better than the starting point of these parts!
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Cleaned up nicely.
These buff mops work nice and make light work of cleaning up all stainless steel guides, lockdowns, siderails
https://www.klingspor.de/en-au/products/anwendung/schleifmop
https://www.maxxicon.com/images/product_images/popup_images/59_0.jpg
I have it mounted on my 6" bench grinder, I use a 120 grit for a final finish and it looks very similar to original, slightly smoother
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Started transferring hardware and installing new stickers on new ramp set. My situation is a little unique, in that the ramps on this CFTBL were OK, just aged, whereas another CFTBL (an original possum pin!) i have in the resto queue had its ramps completely melted due to high temperatures. So the new ramps will go on this resto, and the old ramps will go onto the possum pin. However, i needed to remove the possum pin ramps to swap the hardware (light boards, switches etc), as it would be double handling otherwise.
Just a recap of how festy the ramps on the possum pin are/were...
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-11-19%2017.10.25_zps3ser8vus.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-11-19%2017.10.25_zps3ser8vus.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-11-19%2017.10.31_zpsnphkjxmb.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-11-19%2017.10.31_zpsnphkjxmb.jpg.html)
Bowl before
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-11-21%2014.40.54_zpsz5bmz60r.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-11-21%2014.40.54_zpsz5bmz60r.jpg.html)
New bowl with new stickers, polished hardware
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-11-21%2015.32.02_zpsewtf3wgz.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-11-21%2015.32.02_zpsewtf3wgz.jpg.html)
Also note lack of mechanical switch on the bowl - i had read elsewhere how some had replaced this with a magnetic reed switch - it happens that NBA FB has a few of these reed switches that i had lying around from my NBA FB to MM conversion, so grabbed one and installed it with double sided tape to the side of the bowl - much less intrusive, and hopefully means i can get an extra spin or two out of the bowl!
Also put the light pcbs in the main swirl ramp - this is a mongrel job, mainly fiddly and repeating installations since i put purple LEDs in it, and only thought to test these after i put the pcb in....of course about 30% weren't working, so had to remove and fiddle with the wire legs of the LEDs to ensure good contact.
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Sneak preview of the amazing job done by Savage Restorations in Brisbane. Hopefully i will have the playfield back in a week or two. I asked him to fix my stuff ups and clear coat. So its not a full playfield restoration but is more than adequate for my needs!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161123/ea2b3ad0aa0f4b644aafc01b395b5c39.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161123/a982cf1070071437fbe86d224f08acdc.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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Well, this journey has almost come to an end. Spent last weekend putting all the bits together, i think the pictures tell the story (sorry about all the pics, but Creech is such a stunning looking machine, especially with new shiny bits!).
A few mods, hooked GI to the pop bumpers (although 2 need troubleshooting), installed all Green Titan rubbers,, mainly green start posts and lane guides, as well as green light up start posts for the slings. Purple LEDs in the swirl ramp, and green LEDs in the bowl. Also, as previously mentioned, put a reed switch in the bowl to take away the look and resistance of the lever switch - not sure whether it is this, or the new bowl, or a combination of both, but it is quite easy to get 6 or 7 swirls of the bowl in one go!
Also, playing on the cleared playfield is amazing, you can't even hear the ball roll, and it plays silky smooth. I also think polishing all the metal bits has made a nice difference as well. Only one error, and that was i accidentally had the inlane and outlane switches reversed when reinstalling the wiring harness.
Really happy with how it has turned out, just need to paint the rest of the pink legs for something different, and sort out an option for a replacement hologram - would prefer the LCD mod.
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8117_zpsqqmc0xng.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8117_zpsqqmc0xng.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8123_zpszmvdfvze.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8123_zpszmvdfvze.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8121_zpstmvuisz0.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8121_zpstmvuisz0.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8118_zpsjs3skimc.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8118_zpsjs3skimc.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8144_zpslmuc1lid.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8144_zpslmuc1lid.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8133_zpsypdqy68f.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8133_zpsypdqy68f.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-12-13%2020.44.59_zpsx7wzknne.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-12-13%2020.44.59_zpsx7wzknne.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-12-12%2021.00.58_zpswyyncvnn.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-12-12%2021.00.58_zpswyyncvnn.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-12-12%2021.01.14_zpst3jgqvgw.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-12-12%2021.01.14_zpst3jgqvgw.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-12-11%2020.55.15_zpsci7comjh.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-12-11%2020.55.15_zpsci7comjh.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-12-11%2020.55.09_zpshpcsvjaz.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-12-11%2020.55.09_zpshpcsvjaz.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-12-11%2020.54.27_zpsh1bqkafh.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-12-11%2020.54.27_zpsh1bqkafh.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-12-11%2020.54.15_zps7tsnpbwd.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-12-11%2020.54.15_zps7tsnpbwd.jpg.html)
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/2016-12-11%2020.54.35_zpsauuxn1aj.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/2016-12-11%2020.54.35_zpsauuxn1aj.jpg.html)
Love the reflection of the habitrail from the cleared playfield in this shot!
And a little bit different looking from the starting point a few months ago!
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz299/rjmilla/IMG_8053_zpsgxv5jobq.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/rjmilla/media/IMG_8053_zpsgxv5jobq.jpg.html)
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looks awesome, you have done well
Sorry I did see one thing on the very last picture the kiss plastic is all warped probably because the small clear post that sits on the plastic that stops the ball getting stuck on the plastic is too long - needs to be trimmed or a shorter one so it doesn't touch the left hand side ramp.
Also what did you think of the game play.
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Yeah, that plastic is actually broken just where the scoop is above the post, so the nylock not is the only thing holding it - hence a bit warped - i didn't have time to source a new plastic prior to getting it ready before this weekend when our house will start to fill with Christmas visitors, and a comp the following week!
In terms of gameplay, its definitely still in the honeymoon period, however i am really liking the fact the ruleset is quite different, and the fact the jackpot is not super easy to achieve. It flows very nicely and i like the fact that there needs to be some risk taken (stand up targets) with shots to actually get to multiball.
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that post is still trimmed down (remove the point and the skinny section that a rubber would fit into) though to avoid the unwanted pressure.
that is a very common plastic to be broken, I have the artwork if you want to make one.
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Very nice work Rob ! Those "before" and "after" photos really demonstrates the transformation. @@*
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That looks beautiful, I've always wanted a Creech.
I really like the green rubber on the posts too.