The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Dimsims on March 24, 2014, 11:30:23 PM
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Hi all, just joined up with this forum today as a few of you may have seen.
Im looking into restoring my Data East STAR WARS Pin, im pretty confident with all the electrical & mechanical side of things.
Also sure touching up the cab isn't too hard, but the playfield is what worries me !@#
here are some pics:
(http://ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/1.jpg)
As you can see, the playfield has "Planking" on it:
(http://ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/2.jpg)
(http://ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/3.jpg)
(http://ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/4.jpg)
Im not sure what to do ?
Should I look for another playfield ?
Also the ramp needs to be repaired, unless I can get my hands on another:
(http://ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/5.jpg)
Can anyone here fix these ramps or know of someone that can ?
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That ramp won't be to hard to have fixed. Any stainless steel fabricator in your area would have that fixed for you in no time. From memory there's only three screws holding this section of ramp in place as well so it won't be to difficult to get out. I'd also get a couple of Cliffy protectors for the kick out holes to save any more damage there. Just keep in mind that you will need to carefully bog up and sand level the area that the Cliffy sits over otherwise the Cliffy will end up moulding itself to the wear spots. Also if you wanted to replace those Sling Shot and Death Star plastics then you can get them here http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/pinball-parts-game-star-wars-c-46_284.html?language=english
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Cheers for the info Crashramp ^^^
Has anyone got the ones from Mad Amusements ?
http://mad-amusements.com/category.php?id_category=103
I will be putting an order in soon once I work out what im doing with the playfield.
Im also thinking am I better off selling this machine and looking for a better one out there *!@
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Mad Amusements can be hot and cold as far as overseas customers are concerned. I'd recommend a quick google search of them before ordering.
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Mad Amusements can be hot and cold as far as overseas customers are concerned. I'd recommend a quick google search of them before ordering.
+1. I'm sure you'll get someone who'll tell you they are fine, but do as Crashramp suggests and Google them. Where there's smoke there's fire, and there's a massive amount of smoke out there on this one.
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Mad Amusements can be hot and cold as far as overseas customers are concerned. I'd recommend a quick google search of them before ordering.
+1. I'm sure you'll get someone who'll tell you they are fine, but do as Crashramp suggests and Google them. Where there's smoke there's fire, and there's a massive amount of smoke out there on this one.
I've done about half a dozen orders with them.. although they can be a bit slow at times everything has always arrived intact.
They have a lot of items that are either more expensive from other suppliers or that the others dont have.
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Mad Amusements can be hot and cold as far as overseas customers are concerned. I'd recommend a quick google search of them before ordering.
+1. I'm sure you'll get someone who'll tell you they are fine, but do as Crashramp suggests and Google them. Where there's smoke there's fire, and there's a massive amount of smoke out there on this one.
+2. Speaking from personal experience I would do my best to avoid MAD Amusements at all costs.
Definitely get Cliffy protectors as Crashramp mentioned.
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I think we spoke at some stage yesterday ?
This is what we were discussing - http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=10552.0 (http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=10552.0)
It is difficult to arrest planking as the planking is within the wood, not the artwork. The artwork will follow the planking. I think the stealth may "hide" the planking somewhat, and it is cheaper than a full playfield clearcoat.
Also, avoid MAD Amusements.
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I've done about half a dozen orders with them.. although they can be a bit slow at times everything has always arrived intact.
They have a lot of items that are either more expensive from other suppliers or that the others dont have.
It's very weird, I also have purchased half a dozen times from them and other than not being super quick I have had no issue..
He even contacted me to let me know one of the plastics I ordered was a reproduction and a few other people had complained the red was a slightly darker than the stock and wanted to be sure whether I wanted to go ahead (as it was down the back and mostly covered I didn't care)..
I generally don't recommend them though to others, just as there seems to be so many horror stories around??
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My first 6 or so orders with MAD were good as well. Then I saw the other side of him when I tried to change an order, was charged a re-stocking fee despite the fact nothing had been posted. When I questioned the fee I was barred for life. The emails that followed left me with no doubt in my mind whatsoever that I would never recommend MAD Amusements to anyone that I liked again.
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I've done about half a dozen orders with them.. although they can be a bit slow at times everything has always arrived intact.
They have a lot of items that are either more expensive from other suppliers or that the others dont have.
It's very weird, I also have purchased half a dozen times from them and other than not being super quick I have had no issue..
He even contacted me to let me know one of the plastics I ordered was a reproduction and a few other people had complained the red was a slightly darker than the stock and wanted to be sure whether I wanted to go ahead (as it was down the back and mostly covered I didn't care)..
I generally don't recommend them though to others, just as there seems to be so many horror stories around??
I had the same thing happen on one of my orders, which included some sling plastics for a TAF i was restoring.. he sent an email advising me that the colours were slightly off, checking if i wanted to go ahead.. i did go ahead as the game was going back onsite (game belonged to a holiday resort and i knew they wouldn't care about colours on two plastics being slightly wrong, so long as it made them money and it looked presentable is all they cared about).
I tend to use Mad Amusements only as a last resort if no one else has what i'm after at a given time, due to the horror stories that have been doing the rounds.
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I say put your own order in with MAD Amusements. I have used them for 5 yrs n never had one slight issue ever.
**I also respect the opinions of the members who have had a issue, cause blokes like Blair(Pintoxicated) and Pinboligist etc are top blokes n easy to get along with etc so if they have had a issue, then I have to wonder as well, but it cannot hurt to try for yourself and see how u go. If u don't like the service then cancel your order/payment etc.
As for your playfield, strip the entire playfield, clean it well with baby bum wipes, give it a polish n be careful.
Over n above that, use new balls n seek advice from a professional like Tim at Hot Rodded Pins who does playfield restores. I mention him cause he has a proven track record with a spray booth n clearcoating so far and is fully set up n ready for your work so to speak. There are others out there, but get quotes.
I think someone asked a question somewhere about LEDS for this machine. Flat tops in bulk. Don't use 4 or 5 Led LEDS in my opinion, too bright, too expensive.
Buy in BULK from Terry/Pinball Life or Mark in Melbourne, shop around for prices for everything and read everyones terms n conditions. ^^^
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Thanks all for the feedback on Mad Amusements, I did read a bad story on another forum, hence why I asked.
Do all the Plastics get made from the same place ? Or are there some better than others ?
I think we spoke at some stage yesterday ?
This is what we were discussing - http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=10552.0 (http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=10552.0)
It is difficult to arrest planking as the planking is within the wood, not the artwork. The artwork will follow the planking. I think the stealth may "hide" the planking somewhat, and it is cheaper than a full playfield clearcoat.
Also, avoid MAD Amusements.
Hi Nino, yes that was me <..>
Ive had a bit of a read up on the protectors and I think thats the way ill go ATM.
Im wondering how the protector will sit over the planking though ? as the planking isn't exactly flat.
When running a finger over it, you can feel all the lines !@#
Has anyone else had defect on the playfield and put a protector over it ?
I unscrewed the ramp today and took it to a welding place, really hoping they do a good job.
They said to come back in a week or so fingers crossed.
Im now going to start stripping the rest of the playfield and see what other defect I have @.@
I bought some of the Mill Wax stuff, has anyone used it ?
Should I clean it with anything else before the Mill Wax ?
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As for your playfield, strip the entire playfield, clean it well with baby bum wipes, give it a polish n be careful.
Over n above that, use new balls n seek advice from a professional like Tim at Hot Rodded Pins who does playfield restores. I mention him cause he has a proven track record with a spray booth n clearcoating so far and is fully set up n ready for your work so to speak. There are others out there, but get quotes.
I did have a look for Tim's Phone number but couldn't find one ?
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www.pinballrestoration.com.au
go to the contact us/email section.
not sure why the ph number is no longer available anywhere on the forum......
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Yes, members have used the flat protector full playfield product over defects/imperfect playfields no issues n haven't had a issue reported back yet, to me anyway or on that thread.
That product has worked a treat for good n bad playfields I hear. Give it a go n report back. Once its down its down but still easy to remove if its available for Star Wars, if not, email the seller n ask etc. ^^^
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you can get alot of the plastics separately here, not cheap but a reliable service.
http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=star%20wars&search_in_de******ion=1&sort=2a&page=2&language=english
and some hard to find treats here at random times - they have a proto type translite reverse image
http://www.ssbilliards.com/sale.html
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Was stripping the playfield tonight, until my back said no more *.*
When I took the R2D2 and Death star motors out I found a cut wire on each:
(http://ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/7.jpg)
Why would one have done this ?
Should I reconnect solder it back on ?
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That's a 1uF Capacitor 500V. The equivalent is part number "104Z 500V". Jaycar should stock it, but their web search function is horrible.
Might be worth waiting for someone else to chime in, but I'm sure I used these caps on my JP that was missing the cap.
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I think u are best doing everything and anything u can do to the machine cleaning wise etc.
Then, at the very end, any thing which needs doing, that u cant do, post some photos n questions on here, have a like minded Aussie Pinball member come over to your place with a carton in hand, get some technical help etc and then your machine should be AOK and ready to go, finished.
If not, u can do every thing u can do, and drop the machine off for a service (electronics wise) to one of a number of people and have it sorted that way.
Someone like Nino(Strangeways) shld know what he is doing and have your Star Wars kicking along nicely in no time for little money so to speak, pro-rata. My 2cents worth.
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That's a 1uF Capacitor 500V. The equivalent is part number "104Z 500V". Jaycar should stock it, but their web search function is horrible.
Might be worth waiting for someone else to chime in, but I'm sure I used these caps on my JP that was missing the cap.
Its a 0.1uF 500v ceramic cap. Jaycar dont have ceramics in anything bigger than 50 volt rating (not sure if the 500 volt rating is needed here or not).
They have 0.1uF 630 volt polyester cap that could probably be used without any problems.. link below;
http://search.jaycar.com.au/search?w=rg5210&view=list
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Everywhere those caps are on the motors have been cut ?
I thing ive counted 4 or 5 so far !@#
My question is why someone would cut them ?
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because they were too lazy to fix the real problem which may have occurred on a electronic board located probably in the headbox.
some people/operators who sited machines, turned off some mechanical items to save on proper maintainence.
also, this type of hack, would also cause low scores, rarely a free game and just plain stupidity on behalf of the dodgy operator.
when u have a serious issue like u currently have, u really need to take the machine and leave it with a professional who really knows his stuff with electronics/on a pinny. Its easy to rejoin the wires, but you might blow parts of a board, or it may just highlight the blown part of the board that already exists.
you need to test the motor on the item that has been separated by the cut wires independently, u need to see what part of the board runs that motor independently and so on.
I am lucky, cause I reckon I have the worlds best pinball tech who is a good mate only ten minutes away, but when u are in Melbourne, u need to ask someone like Nino, who he thinks is best to sort this problem out before u reconnect and cause more smoke/fire/god knows what extra problems.
You can always isolate the board via your manual that controls that motor, and send the board to someone like Beaky(Andy) who can check the board on a test rig and then put the board into a machine for real testing.
someone local really needs to spend a few hours with the machine who is experienced. will be well worth it in the end.
replace all fuses, check all boards etc etc etc. the safety list goes on and on...
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Yeah I think ill do just that once its all rebuilt, I wont resolder them for now anyway.
Pulled all the bumpers and mechs off today:
Here are the bumpers, looking a bit sad and 2 broken bumper holders:
(http://ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/9.jpg)
Here is the drop targets looking very dirty:
(http://ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/10.jpg)
Here is part of the death star mechanism, very broken !!!
(http://ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/8.jpg)
Im dont think its possible to get another of these laying around, may have to do some plastic welding and glue.
Ive ordered a heap of parts including:
Playfield protector
Death Star target
Flipper rebuild kit
Rubber kit
New bumper housings
bumper bodies & skirts
Lamp sockets
Still got to look into what type springs and coil sleeves I need.
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The drop target assembly brackets are almost always broken. This is where you have to get "creative" !
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The drop target assembly brackets are almost always broken. This is where you have to get "creative" !
It looks similar to the one in Attack From Mars... Hmm
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Been taking all the mylar off today using the "freeze Spray" Method, was very surprised how easy it comes off and didnt loose one speck of artwork $#$
(http://ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/11.jpg)
I also used the flour and alcohol method to get the glue off that the mylar left behind:
(http://ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/12.jpg)
Around the pop bumpers where there was a big piece of mylar, now taken off and cleaned:
(http://ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/13.jpg)
I have a few inserts that are raised here and there, you can see in the last pictures between the bumpers.
Would it hurt to knock them back in with a block of wood ?
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Today I got the holes ready for the cliffy protectors, I spend alot of time doing so as I was really careful with sanding so I didnt wreck any artwork.
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/14.jpg)
Also here is a close up of a raised insert:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/15.jpg)
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Looking good so far.
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you are doing a great job.
stay on target (repeated over n over again on the Star Wars Trilogy machine.lol)
coming along quickly. u shld be proud of getting in and getting your hands dirty n all the great resto work so far. well done.
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Great work so far, good luck with it and keep the updates coming. DE Star Wars is a great game.
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Had the weekend off this, due to other plans so haven't got far since my last post.
Yesterday I build a rough trolley to sit the machine on while I work on it, just so I can move it around as my back dont like pinball machines ^.^
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/18.jpg)
Also I was able to pick the ramp up today and very happy with it *%*
I expected it to have the heat stain in the metal but they polished it out, total cost was $35.
Pretty damn good a thought #@#
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/16.jpg)
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/17.jpg)
Onto sanding and painting the inside of the cab now.
I found blue paint that looks to be an exact match and can get it in either a pressure can or 1/2L tin #*#
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Hey guys, Ive been doing a little here and there, ive pretty much ordered everything I need, it has all arrived except the order from Mad Amusements !@#
They were the only ones that had the Cliffy hole protectors in stock and also had the plastics I needed.
I ordered everything pretty much at the same time, everything else turned up last week, but I have no clue on where the Mad Amusements order is ?
Ive emailed them a couple of times with no response ^&^
Anyway ive managed to fix the death star drop target, I used the soldering iron to weld the plastic, then glued over the top and also added a support bar.
I think I worked out why it broke, there was a nut and bolt missing that acts as a stopper on the other side of the drop target, making it sort of twist and over time it must have broke ?
Added a new target and the missing nut and bolt:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/22.jpg)
Cleaned & rebuilt the other drop targets, I have new targets but no one has a sticker kit in stock, so ill had to clean up the old ones for now:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/19.jpg)(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/20.jpg)
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/21.jpg) Also put new springs in.
Cleaned and rebuilt the POP bumpers with new parts, here is one of them:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/23.jpg)
Painted the upper inside of the cabinet:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/24.jpg)
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Before with standard globs After: cleaned with LED's installed
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/25.jpg)(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/26.jpg)
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Unfortunately your experience with MAD Amusements is more the norm than a one off. Dare I say it, you were warned. It is hard when nobody else has what you want but there are too many guys around the world that have been burnt by this schmuck. Your order will turn up eventually, it is just a waiting game now to see when he feels like sending it.
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alternatively contact cliffy directly as often he has sets at home that he hasn't sent to distributors and his postage is great - $2 for 4 cliffy protectors.
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How long ago did you place the order with Mad Amusements? And when you placed the order did you receive an email from them giving the shipping options etc? normally this email can take up to a few days.
Also when he actually sends the order you should receive an email from USPS with tracking info. Once you have THAT email you know you're going to receive your order *%*
As others have said he IS slow to send anything, but if you've had the emails sent to you as i mentioned above you should receive your parts *%* I've had no problems so far with him, everything has turned up, albeit not as quick as i would like!!
I dont know if it actually helps but if i ever have any queries about an order i always make sure to be polite in the emails i send (i've only needed to do this once that i can remember with Mad btw) and i've never had to wait long for a reply. From what i've learned of other peoples experiences of him he seems like someone who would probably ignore abusive emails.
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From what i've learned of other peoples experiences of him he seems like someone who would probably ignore abusive emails.
Defiantly agree here unfortunately in my experience he ignores the polite ones as well.
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alternatively contact cliffy directly as often he has sets at home that he hasn't sent to distributors and his postage is great - $2 for 4 cliffy protectors.
Thanks for the tip, I will do if this doesn't work out.
How long ago did you place the order with Mad Amusements? And when you placed the order did you receive an email from them giving the shipping options etc? normally this email can take up to a few days.
Also when he actually sends the order you should receive an email from USPS with tracking info. Once you have THAT email you know you're going to receive your order *%*
As others have said he IS slow to send anything, but if you've had the emails sent to you as i mentioned above you should receive your parts *%* I've had no problems so far with him, everything has turned up, albeit not as quick as i would like!!
I dont know if it actually helps but if i ever have any queries about an order i always make sure to be polite in the emails i send (i've only needed to do this once that i can remember with Mad btw) and i've never had to wait long for a reply. From what i've learned of other peoples experiences of him he seems like someone who would probably ignore abusive emails.
I placed the order about the 31st of last month, so about 11 days ago, but no emails from USPS.
I did get one about the shipping details, which I answered straight away and chose the Express option &^&
Then they had to send a paypal invoice so I can pay the difference for the Express post, in which I payed straight away.
To get to this point 6 days had gone past and I haven't heard from them since !@# All of my email have been polite.
I think they have a bad system for the shipping side of thing, a customer should be able to choose what shipping they what in the checkout process.
This would have cut out 6 days in my case, anyway I think it will be my first and last order with them.
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Well the Mad Amusement order still no show *!@ but he did finally get back to me, saying he had problems with his email system (((
Ive replaced some lamp holders (took a few hours)
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/28.jpg)
Once I did that I installed the rest of the LED's and wanted to see how they were looking.
I turned the machine on was all looking good then all of a sudden FIRE WORKS !! came from the back box ^&^
Quickly turned off the machine and I found this on the CPU board:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/27.jpg)
I had a think for a while what could have caused this and had a look in the manual.
The manual says they are for the 4 bumpers and thats where my problem was &^&
Some how when looking at the photos I got the wires around the wrong way @.@ lol
So ive fixed that now and on to fixing the board !@)
Ive managed to get the same TIP122 transistors, but the 2N4401 transistors next to them seem to be harder to find *!@
I have some PN100 transistors here, will they do the job ?
Ive looked then up and says they can be used as a replacement: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZT2283
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It looks like your doing a great job on your restore so far ^^^ . with the stickers your having trouble geting. In the past I have carefully removed them and sent them to a sign writer that specializes in sticker work. Ive had great results and couldnt tell the diferance. I Hope this helps
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It looks like your doing a great job on your restore so far ^^^ . with the stickers your having trouble geting. In the past I have carefully removed them and sent them to a sign writer that specializes in sticker work. Ive had great results and couldnt tell the diferance. I Hope this helps
Cheers for that, also looks like Marco has just restocked:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/820-6090-00
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Ive managed to get the same TIP122 transistors, but the 2N4401 transistors next to them seem to be harder to find Confused
I have some PN100 transistors here, will they do the job ?
Ive looked then up and says they can be used as a replacement: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZT2283
The PN100 has a slightly lower collector current (500mA as opposed to 600mA for the 2N4401) but slightly higher voltage ratings so it should work ok.
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Ive found marcos postage to be out of this world. I personally would get them made here for less than his postage cost alone.
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The PN100 has a slightly lower collector current (500mA as opposed to 600mA for the 2N4401) but slightly higher voltage ratings so it should work ok.
Cheers for that I have used the PN100's and once installed where reading on the multimeter the same as the others ^^^
Ive found marcos postage to be out of this world. I personally would get them made here for less than his postage cost alone.
Yes I did think that when I put an order through last time, I wish he had them in stock then !!!
One thing though, the service was lightning fast, from memory I had my order 5-6 days later.
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Ive managed to get the same TIP122 transistors, but the 2N4401 transistors next to them seem to be harder to find Confused
I have some PN100 transistors here, will they do the job ?
Ive looked then up and says they can be used as a replacement: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZT2283
http://australia.rs-online.com/web/c/semiconductors/discrete-semiconductors/bipolar-transistors/?searchTerm=2N4401&h=s&redirect-relevancy-data=636F3D3226696E3D4931384E4B6E6F776E41734D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C7061727469616C26706D3D5E5B5C707B4C7D5C707B4E647D2D2C2F255C2E5D2B2426706F3D313326736E3D592673743D4D414E5F504152545F4E554D4245522677633D424F5448267573743D324E3434303126 (http://australia.rs-online.com/web/c/semiconductors/discrete-semiconductors/bipolar-transistors/?searchTerm=2N4401&h=s&redirect-relevancy-data=636F3D3226696E3D4931384E4B6E6F776E41734D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C7061727469616C26706D3D5E5B5C707B4C7D5C707B4E647D2D2C2F255C2E5D2B2426706F3D313326736E3D592673743D4D414E5F504152545F4E554D4245522677633D424F5448267573743D324E3434303126)
Does this help with what your looking for?
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I ended up using the PN100's and the reading on the multimeter are the same, so gets me going for now.
I think my trouble are further done the line now as one I added the new transistors, I turned the machine on again and the 4 bumpers gone stuck down then the fuse blew *!@
So im now looking into the 2x SN7402N IC chips, I think they may have copped some damage @.@
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good work
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:D :D :D :D Well I got it going again !! :D :D :D :D
I ended up replacing all 4 TIP122 Transistors, all 4 2N4401 pre-driver Transistors.
After that all the bumpers were getting stuck down when the game was turned on
and keeped blowing fuses.
I replaced the 2 SN7402N IC chips and also put IC sockets in in case I ever have trouble with them again.
I then did another test and turning on the machine, all bumpers were fixed bar one that was still stuck down.
Was scratching my head for a while trying to figure out what to do next and I read up that sometimes if a short
happens on the any of the 4 bumpers, it can effect the reflexive circuit, that is no longer used on the revision 3 boards.
I found a diode that wasn't reading right and desolded it, then another test and BAM !! it works !! $#$ $#$
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/29.jpg)
While I was blowing fuses I took the opportunity to replace all the fuse holders and fuses:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/30.jpg)
Here is a pic of most of the LEDs installed:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/31.jpg)
The Mad Amusements order finally arrived today @@*
So onto putting some new plastics on and then the Playfield protector, oh and also the cliffy hole protectors.
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Nice work! Looks Great with LEDs installed. You might want to replace that plug on the right in the top picture. Looks like its got some burn marks?
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Nice work! Looks Great with LEDs installed. You might want to replace that plug on the right in the top picture. Looks like its got some burnt marks?
The pins and the plug look ok still, the burn mark was from when the transistors blew up (fire works) lol
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The pins and the plug look ok still, the burn mark was from when the transistors blew up (fire works) lol
Oh yes, I see! *%*
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Looking great, well done!
Also love your Dim Sim avatar.
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You have done really well nutting out the problems. ^^^ id need a lot more brains. i think ill stick to working on em's at least i can see if a switch is oen or closed.
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Good luck great machine
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Hey all, its been a while since I last worked on this, been waiting for some good days to go out in the garage (been way to cold & a bit slack)
Over the last couple of days I've been doing a few repairs to the outside of the cab, to get it ready to paint.
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/32.jpg)
I'm going to repaint the blue, red and the black out lines where needed.
Could anyone help with what to use for black out line ?
Also whats the best type brushes to use ?
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Well done getting it going ^^^ But you might want to consider changing resistor R15 in the first pic (if you haven't done so since taking the pic).. looks like its had a hard life!!
Looking forward to seeing the end results. keep up the good work ^^^
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Update:
I've managed to get some of the blue paint down after a few more repairs, now need to get some red and black paint to finish it of:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/33.jpg)
Did some repairs to the back of the machine, you can see all 4 corners were gone and needed repairing.
Also the hole for the head box latch tool was well worn out, so I decided to fill and redrill it:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/34.jpg)
Some more blue paint and the redrilled the hole for the head box latch tool:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/35.jpg)
Its coming up better then I thought, well pretty good for me anyway lol.
Onto to the head box next.
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Nice work, well done so far. ^^^
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Very nice ^^^
Please make sure you replace that power cable ^^^ ^^^
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Very nice ^^^
Please make sure you replace that power cable ^^^ ^^^
LOL, I was waiting for this one %.%
Yes is on the to do list, probably one of the last things ill do before switching it back on..... one day @.@ hopefully soon &&
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Can anyone advise me if these stickers are available anywhere before I go ripping them off:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/36.jpg)
Thanks in advance ^^^
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I may just fix and paint around them if there not available ?
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Flipperrescue?
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Flipperrescue?
Thanks Boots, I had a look on their website but couldn't find much.
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Flipperrescue?
Thanks Boots, I had a look on their website but couldn't find much.
Have a talk to Gav (retropin) he can probably help you out.
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Had some time to get the paint & artwork finished on the cab (still have head box to go).
The front side stripped back with a couple of the repairs I did:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/42.jpg)
After:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/39.jpg)
The Left side with start on a couple of repairs:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/37.jpg)
After:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/38.jpg)
Right Side, the Y-wing fighter had some damage which was hard to fix:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/40.jpg)
After:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/41.jpg)
I'm no artist, so i'm pretty happy with the way its come up & look heaps better then it did *%*
I want to do a clear coat over the hole cab, but not sure what to use ?
The blue paint I used was Enamel, the red is acrylic paint and for some of the fine black, I ended up using a oil based fine black marker.
What type of clear is going to be ok with everything I've used ? Enamel maybe ?
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That came up well , does look a lot better , Not sure which type of clear to use though. Keep in mind that when it gets cleared it will show up any dents ect, Maybe give the whole cab a polish with wax to help seal it. What do others think?
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Don't clear it.
Try paste wax and you will be amazed at the difference.
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Is there a wax one you guys could recommend ?
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For going over enamel paint you could try Cabot's clear varnish in satin, they are available from Mitre10 in spray cans.
I have used this on old clocks and it comes out very nice
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I want to do a clear coat over the hole cab, but not sure what to use ?
The blue paint I used was Enamel, the red is acrylic paint and for some of the fine black, I ended up using a oil based fine black marker.
What type of clear is going to be ok with everything I've used ? Enamel maybe ?
Generally you dont want to spray acrylic lacquers over acrylic enamels (to be term correct) as the thinners in the lacquers will damage/react with the enamel underneath (assuming not fully cured). Enamel is softer by comparison. You can get clear coat in enamel but i dont think you would want to risk it. These clears tend to yellow over time and enamel isnt the best for sanding back should you have to for some reason (such as a run etc).
Personally, i would consider clear coating it with a 2 pack clear (acrylic urethane) but you would want to replicate what you have done on a test piece of wood or plastic before you do it to the cabinet. Thats my take on it.
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Looking great. You should be very proud of the result. You have put in a lot of effort ^^^
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Cheers guys,
I'm interested in going the wax way, its just what wax to use ?
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A good quality Carnauba wax. I use A Kitten product Cream polishing wax no1, but this does contain silicones, so only use on the cab. but i have used it on playfields and it works really well. or go with the Mill Wax, A product designed for pinball machines , that works really well too...
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remember wax on wax off!. use a nice soft cotton cloth after you have applied the wax , and this will bring up a nice shine
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Good advice Ralph ^^^
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remember wax on wax off!. use a nice soft cotton cloth after you have applied the wax , and this will bring up a nice shine
Cheers for the info ralph67, I have Mill Wax here ^^^
So the Mill Wax wont hurt any art work ?
How do should it be applied ?
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I would try a small spot first so see how it goes, it may remove a slight amount of the art but prob not much , it depends on how hard you press, use a soft cloth and use circular motions , then the same using another clean cloth to buff. A old cotton t shirt is the best i have found
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Bugger ! that was a no go !
Just tried the Mill wax on a small part and it took the red acrylic straight off ^&^
Lucky it was a very small part and lucky I didn't go hummer and tong over the whole side or something lol
So yeah, there goes that idea.
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you need to use a pure Carnauba wax such as mothers. I believe mills wax has chemicals in it to clean playfields & has little if any wax in it, others will correct me if I'am wrong
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Bummer , good job you went easy , maybe try the pure wax as suggested by chad and start again on a small spot. you can touch that part up again i hope?
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Ill go and pick up some mothers wax tomorrow and give it a go ::)
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I got hold of some Mothers Pure Carnauba wax (Step 3) and still no good !@#
Takes the red acrylic straight off *!@
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Ok, I'm going to have another go with the mothers wax, this time I'll use a big, soft paint brush and lightly paste it on, wait for it to dry and buff it off.
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thats bad, hopefully something works for you soon
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I got it to work with that last method (Paste and wait to dry) $#$
It did take a little off, but not enough to effect anything #@#
One side is done, now onto the rest !
I'd say if I was to put on more layers of wax, I wouldn't have to worry so much with that first layer down ?
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I got it to work with that last method (Paste and wait to dry) $#$
It did take a little off, but not enough to effect anything #@#
One side is done, now onto the rest !
I'd say if I was to put on more layers of wax, I wouldn't have to worry so much with that first layer down ?
You could have used a polyurethane over the paint.. wouldn't touch it at all as its an oil based finish. You can mix Gloss and Satin or Matte so you don't get too much of a shiny finish. You cant now you've waxed it though unless you now take all the wax off as nothing is going to stick now
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Good News . It is tricky with Acryil paint , Unless you use multiple coats and let fully dry. But enamel paint is less forgiving when used, but can be cut back flat and then polished up, Send a few pics of the finished cab
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Good News . It is tricky with Acryil paint , Unless you use multiple coats and let fully dry. But enamel paint is less forgiving when used, but can be cut back flat and then polished up, Send a few pics of the finished cab
Actually, acrylic enamel can not be cut back. This is the kind of paint used on trucks and trailers.
You are thinking about acrylic lacquer.
Retropin is right, as per my original suggestion, acrylic urethane would have been fine (more than likely). Getting wax off completely now, for clear coat, would more than likely involve some level of sanding, so that boat has now sailed...
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I'm pretty happy the way its come up with the wax, I've done a layer over the whole cab and 2 layers on one of the sides.
Ill finish doing the second layer and hopefully with a third layer, I wont see anymore paint coming off when waxing off.
I had a closer look at the coin door and noticed it has the wrong coin mech, you can see its mounted behind the door.
This is a picture before the cab was pulled apart:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/44.jpg)
I did a bit of research and found the right one that's supposed to be there and thought to myself "I've seen one of them around before"
Went out to the garage opened up one of my arcade machines (where I had seen a face plate before, sitting on the floor of the cab),
picked it up and it was the exact one I needed $#$
Its only the face plate with no mech or anything, but will do for now until I find a complete one.
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/43.jpg)
It also has no coin return flap to cover the hole, so ill make a cover out of steel and mount it behind, just so ya cant see inside the cab.
I haven't painted the coin door as yet, just gave it a quick clean, was actually thinking of getting it powder coated black ?
Has anyone here done that before ?
I have a few things going in for powder coating soon, so it wouldn't cost anymore to get this done *)*
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Gees !!!!
Its been a while since I posted here and was about the last time I worked on this.
Time to get back to it and finish it off #@#
I bought a proper trolley the other day from a guy in Hallam:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271652709688?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
make life so much easier, I can now work on it at different heights and move it around with ease.
Things that still need to be done:
1. Some touch ups on the head box (need to learn how to mix colours lol)
2. Fix & Paint R2D2's head (Cracks in plastic & Chrome was very pitted / chipped)
3. Work to the circuit boards (Reheat solder joints & replace whats needed)
4. The left slingshot not working (I think this is due to the board work I did earlier ?)
5. Adjust the Death Star drop target, may need a new motor ?
6. New speakers (8" speaker is ripped & head box speakers are rusty)
7. New decal set
8. Install new ROM (20th Anniversary)
I think that's it !@#
Anyway looking forward to finishing this and being able to play it again !!
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Hey all,
Been working on this last night and today...
I'm trying to get the Death Star drop target to work as it should !@#
Every time the death star opens, it should be go down until I get a ball in there, then it goes back up.
Well this is going down, up, down.
Then when I get a ball in it goes up, down up.
Its basically doing what it should be doing twice pretty much every time ^&^
I've down all I can think of... Replaced the switches and so on.
Anyone had this issue ?
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I don't know if it'll be a switch or possibly the motor. It does tend to have a mind of its own when the motors go on these targets.
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After a little think, I lifter the playfield and I can see whats going on now.
When one of the switches has been switched "ON" and stops the motor, the next time the motor either goes up or down, the motor runs in reverse until it hits a lever from the switch, stops and goes forward again.
Is this whats its supposed to do and I just need to adjust the lever ?
Or should the motor not run in reverse at all ?
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Problem resolved #*#
It ended up just needing the levers on the micro switches adjusted so the cam could trigger the switch when the motor is in reverse.
The game is pretty much 100% now, although I had the right slingshot out that I haven't fixed yet.
The problem is on the CPU board so I just stole the CPU board out of Maverick until I find whats wrong with it.
Its most likely a transistor or along that line somewhere ?
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Resolved another issue late last night, that I was having with the slingshot on the SW CPU board $#$
I went back to the repair I did when the POP Bumper's transistors blew to high heaven.
There were 2 IC's that I replaced and put it sockets, in case they ever blew again.
I did a bit of testing with the multimeter around the IC sockets and found that this IC socket had a bad connection:
(http://ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/47.jpg)
Desoldered the socket and soldered in a new one making sure that each leg on the socket had a good connection both on top & bottom of the board.
Reinstalled into machine and BAM ! The right sling now works as it should :D
A word of advice when buying IC sockets:
You can see the difference in the picture below, the one on the left is the one to go for when you need a connection on both side of the board.
I tried to get them, but where I went didn't have them, so I got the ones on the right.
If I had of got the ones on the left, I wouldn't have had any troubles.
(http://ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/48.jpg)
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Some good info. Thanks for sharing.
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Just finished reading your restoration work. Good effort. Im overseas at the moment but looking at picking a up a minor restore job when I'm back in aus. Good to something to keep me busy.
What's left to go? Would like to see the playfield in all its restored glory.
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Had some time to get the paint & artwork finished on the cab (still have head box to go).
The front side stripped back with a couple of the repairs I did:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/42.jpg)
After:
(http://www.ttrracing.com/admin/Pictures/DESW/39.jpg)
Not sure if the author is still around or not but ... what type of paint did you use and how did you get the colors to match?
Cheers.
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nevermind, I found my own answer, which was "mix and match your own" from scratch.
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nevermind, I found my own answer, which was "mix and match your own" from scratch.
He - it was a help yourself answer. How did it turn out?
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nevermind, I found my own answer, which was "mix and match your own" from scratch.
Sorry koops, just seen this @.@
I took a piece of the cab to the paint shop and they mixed some up for me.
Trouble is apparently blue is the hardest to get a match, it was as close as they could get it.
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Just finished reading your restoration work. Good effort. Im overseas at the moment but looking at picking a up a minor restore job when I'm back in aus. Good to something to keep me busy.
What's left to go? Would like to see the playfield in all its restored glory.
There is a few little finishing touches to go (when I get around to it), just waiting to do a parts order for another machine as I need a few little items to finish.
But will definitely post some more pics when its done $#$
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nevermind, I found my own answer, which was "mix and match your own" from scratch.
He - it was a help yourself answer. How did it turn out?
I havn't actually "done it". More of a case in that i was doing research on the "how" :)
Had anyone performed a lead test on swde cabinets? I saw in the pinside "vids guide" that games made up until the early 2000's had lead based paint on cabinets. I think i'll grab one of these (http://www.bunnings.com.au/3m-instant-lead-test-kit-2-swabs_p1560254) and check before doing anything.
As someone that would have blindly bogged up the holes and then sanded it I am quite surprised/shocked that I hadn't seen it mentioned more.
Should probably be added to other restoration safety concerns such as using 2pac, natha (all known carcinogenics) etc. !^! There should be a big a warning regarding this sort of things for noobs :)