The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Strangeways on July 20, 2010, 11:11:04 PM
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This is another restore I completed around 3 years ago. The machine is within a collection of machines I have restored for a Collector in Melbourne. At the time he purchased this machine from me, he had the Jacks Open, Genie and Space Invaders that I had restored. I think this machine was then sold to a Sydnay based collector - I'm not sure. The reason I've posted this restore, is because I've been "flat out" with other things (Videos and other coin op work), and I have not had time to start another "real time" restoration. Within the next two months, I will have started a couple of CLASSIC EMs and another Classic Bally - more on that later. But for now, I thought I'd post this restore.
History
Was bought new and operated from somewhere in the late Seventies and then removed from route in the mid eighties. It sat in the storage buiding, gathering dust. While it was in storage, it gathered a lot of dust, and parts were removed from it continuosly. I pulled it out of storage and stored it in my garage for a few years.
Condition
Cabinet - 8/10 - Really good for its age. A few scuff marks, but it retained its vibrant colors, and had no damage
Playfield - 8/10 - Part contact (not mylar). This machine was covered AFTER it had some wear - noticeably over ball swirl marks in the yellow areas. Fine lines could be seen (cracks), and I knew that if I tried to remove this contact, it could end up a disaster (like the Playboy I attempted). The playfield was in good condition, so I left the contact. Some platics were missing. The apron was missing. Several mechanism missing - flipper bases, sling bases and assemblies.
Electronics - 5/10 - Boards missing. Also - the displays were poor. Total rebuild of all boards and replacement displays will be needed.
Backglass -9/10 - Perfect except for one scratch.
Initial pictures
This is exactly how the machine was found in storage. In very poor condition, but worthy of a challenge.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%201678.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%202185.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%201698.jpg)
Removal of the playfield - Plenty of filth !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%201684.jpg)
Playfield stripped - with only the dirt left behind
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%201693.jpg)
First pass - Nifti in one hand and a rag in the other. Is this the same playfield ?
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%201694.jpg)
You can just see the lines where the mylar meets the playfield. This machine didn't suffer from the usual shrinkage of the contact. I didn't even "test" removing the contact. It was still "soft" - unlike contact that had been dried out and starting to peel.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%201696.jpg)
Cabinet stripped and cleaned with nifti and a bucket of water. Left in the sun to dry out, and it will be left alone for the time being while I work on the playfield.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%201709.jpg)
There's the end result of the first "session" of this restore. I do recall being VERY pleased with the playfield.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%201710.jpg)
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Hey Nino,
Always enjoyable reading your resto threads. Lots of great images, creating a great intro and of course, looking forward to the "next chapter" of the story. Great stuff, and love to see the old beasts being brought back to life!
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Looking forward to this Nino .
Cheers
Dave
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Some Playfield work
The decision was made to leave the contact as the risks were too high. The playfield was in very good condition and the contact was tidy. There were areas not covered and they were badly affected by ball swirl. To match the condition of the playfield where the contact had protected it, I had to use the Chux "Magic Eraser". I've used this product with great success for years, and used correctly, it can provide some really good results. As an agent, I use either Isocol or Isopropyl alcohol. Isocol has more water, so you are better off buying Isopropyl alcohol.
On the picture below, I've spent 20 minutes rubbing the bare playfield with Magic Eraser and Isocol/Isopropyl alcohol. The right side is untouched. Quite clearly, the return lane and the yellow area "Collect" is looking better already.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20026.jpg)
Same area - with the flash on - so it really highlights the swirl post dirt removal with ME. ME only removes the fine dirt in the cracks, using the alcohol to remove the dirt. so you are still left with swirls, but minus the dirt.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20027.jpg)
The rest of the plaflield is attended to and then cleaned with Novus 2 and a rag. The contact is in excellent condition.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20035.jpg)
Playfield contact removal test
Here's the "test area" for contact removal. This is not seen - it is covered by the plastic. Check out the top right hand corner - A LARGE section of paint has lifted !!! This was a good enough guide to abandon any further attempt at removal ! The top section is a bit like a patchwork quilt of different applications of contact. Most of the edges are covered by plastics.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20038.jpg)
Middle section
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20037.jpg)
Lower section
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20036.jpg)
I resprayed the wooden playfield guides and screwed them back into place. This will keep the playfield flat during the rest of the work.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20039.jpg)
Clean and polish the hardware and install - looks very good so far !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20041.jpg)
A few hours hard work makes such a huge difference.
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What a difference (already)!! The pictures speak for themselves, and great to see and better understand your approach in tackling this one so far. Great chapter 2 ..... I can wait a few days now for chapter 3 ....
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Lookn great so far ^^^ looking forward to the next update *%*
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Nice work Nino, enjoying this restore. @@*
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coming up real nice Nino
couple of questions, where do you get the Magic Eraser and Isocol/Isopropyl alcohol from ?
and how do you removal the metal ball guides ?
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Great Work ! A credit to you. I enjoy seeing these older machines come back to life.
GT ^^^
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coming up real nice Nino
couple of questions, where do you get the Magic Eraser and Isocol/Isopropyl alcohol from ?
and how do you removal the metal ball guides ?
Looking great...shiney ball trough...tumbler???
I to wanted to know about the IPA to...we use this to actually make sealers for work, it's a solvent yes. Is this the same stuff? We buy it in 200KG drums. Does it not affect the wood?
Can you give a slight rundown on how you used it?
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Looking very VERY shiny indeed -
Looking forward to the next update. @@*
el_timbo
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coming up real nice Nino
couple of questions, where do you get the Magic Eraser and Isocol/Isopropyl alcohol from ?
and how do you removal the metal ball guides ?
Magic Eraser - Coles Supermarkets
Isocol - Chemists usually. Yet to see it in a supermarket
Isopropyl alcohol - Bunnings
The metal ball guides were cleaned with a green scotchbrite pad, then polished on my bench buffer. Smaller parts were cleaned with a wire brush then thrown in the tumbler
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coming up real nice Nino
couple of questions, where do you get the Magic Eraser and Isocol/Isopropyl alcohol from ?
and how do you removal the metal ball guides ?
Looking great...shiney ball trough...tumbler???
I to wanted to know about the IPA to...we use this to actually make sealers for work, it's a solvent yes. Is this the same stuff? We buy it in 200KG drums. Does it not affect the wood?
Can you give a slight rundown on how you used it?
I've covered it more pictorial detail here - http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=1256.0
1 - Make sure the playfield is clean, or you will be rubbing dirt into the cracks, not removing it !
2 - drop some alcohol on to the Magic eraser - don't soak the ME, but enough to moisten it.
3 - find an effected area and rub the area in a circular motion. No need to rub too hard, let the ME do the work for you. You know you are doing it right if there is a white deposit on the area.
4 - Don't let the ME dry out. Keep dropping alcohol on the ME. Wipe the area clean with alcohol and a rag.
5 - Keep checking the area between moistening the ME. You should see progress.
6 - Be VERY careful on EMs - the lacquer is thin, so is the paint.
The key is to continually check the progress and ensure you don't rub too much. The aim is to lift the dirt out of the cracks.
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Looking Good Nino the mylar removal is always a risk im very hesitant to take from the looks of that corner its no wonder you left it on lucky you tested there
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Looks great mate, look forward to the rest of the restoration ^^^
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Nino how did you get the ball return so shiny? Was it buffed on grinder?
J.D.
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Nino how did you get the ball return so shiny? Was it buffed on grinder?
J.D.
The section that the ball travels is buffed = less resistance. Smaller parts go into the tumbler. The vertical guides were hand polished with Brasso and a green scotchbrite, then with a Brasso and a rag
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Cabinet repairs
The headbox top was in bad shape. The paint was flaking and it just looked like it needed some work. The rest of the cabinet was in very good shape, and I didn't want to neglect the top of the head, even though it is not visible. The backglass surround also needed a bit of work. After cleaning the head, I decided to start. Here's the damage ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%202185.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%202184.jpg)
First, I sand off the old paint and start to even the wood out - Just some 100 Grit to start off, 180 Grit and then 360 Grit. Mask off the area and cover up with newspaper.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%202187.jpg)
Prime the area to be painted. First a thin coat. Sand with 360 (lightly) and then a thicker coat. Lightly sand with 600 wet/Dry.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%202188.jpg)
Then I used a "White Knight" brand of paint for the top. First a light coat, and then a heavier coat - no sanding in between. It LOOKS a lot darker and glossier than the factory. It is still acceptable for a part of the machine that is never seen !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%202195.jpg)
Inside the Cabinet
Completely cleaned and allowed to dry. All the parts are stripped off and indivdually washed, cleaned, tumbled and buffed. At the end of this process, parts are reassembled like a jigsaw puzzle. The lock down bar assembly is treated with Ranex and a wire brush is used to remove all corrosion. I then use green scotchbrite and Brasso to shine up the assembly. It takes a bit of time and work - but it is worth it !
Even the smallest detail - like the yellow plastic sheaths on the ground straps are cleaned and refitted
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%201896.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%201897.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%201898.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%201970.jpg)
Chime assemblies are rebuilt. Some of the coils were not present on the machine so I ordered replacements.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%201971.jpg)
So far, so good !
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Lots of hours there! Very meticulous, but the results speak for themselves. By the way Nino, what method do you usually use to apply the paint on cabinets/headboxes?
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Lots of hours there! Very meticulous, but the results speak for themselves. By the way Nino, what method do you usually use to apply the paint on cabinets/headboxes?
If it is only minor work, like this machine - I match the color as close as possible with a can of "White Knight" from bunnings. If the area affected is the front or side(s), then I repaint the cabinet using a more professional method such as spray gun and compressor (my Dad still has a professional setup). I'll be doing a few cabinets in the near future - especially when the weather imrpoves.
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One of the MANY things I like about restoration work, is that you are "tied down" to repetitive work. There's cleaning, polishing, painting, installation of new parts, testing etc etc. I really enjoy the board repairs. In fact, years ago, I used to buy Bally / Stern MPU boards riddled with corrosion - just for the "challenge". Over the years, only ONE board has me stumped (to this day) !
All the boards in this machines needed rework. While I wait for parts, I strip the boards.
Here's the thread on the rebuild of the Power Supply
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=1557.0 (http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=1557.0)
Here's the thread on the rebuild of a Solenoid Driver Board
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=158.0 (http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=158.0)
Here's the thread on an MPU rebuild (Stern -200 board)
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=2343.0 (http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=2343.0)
The strikes and spares had a typically "tired" power supply that looked like this ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20079.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20082.jpg)
By following the same process from the rebuild thread, I have a working a tested Power Supply
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20088.jpg)
All displays are tested and repaired if necessary. Solenoid driver is upgraded, Lamp Driver is repaired where necessary. The first test is with my trusty Altek board. This eliminates any errors that may be present on the original MPU. I almost ALWAYS test with the Altek first. As the "self test" does not really test the PIA outputs etc.
Note - I ALWAYS replace the 5V ripple capacitor C23. I notice many eBay auctions where copious amounts of time is spent on the cosmetics of the machine and the electronics is appalling. It takes no longer than 5 minutes to replace this cap. The bottom line is that a true restoration involves ALL aspects of the machine - not just the "eye candy". The connectors are replaced in the wiring loom for the power supply and this machine booted perfectly - first time - no "chasing my tail" - it is all rebuilt.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20097.jpg)
The Apron
Well it was missing ! Ken (Skybeaux) kindly GAVE me one to install in this game (thanks again, Ken). I removed the paint, primed and then topcoated using "Appliance white" White Knight paint. Came out really well. I made the apro decals myself, as the ones on eBay were (are) the wrong shade of yellow.
A test run on the playfield which is dropped into the machine
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20046.jpg)
New parts (everything) are installed into the game. I bought some "almost NOS" plastics from eBay, and then made a complete set from all the good parts.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20067.jpg)
Plastics are installed ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20071.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20070.jpg)
Decals are installed on the apron. The camera distorts the color slightly - it is a bit darker and fuller.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20242.jpg)
Instruction cards really finish the apron off nicely !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20287.jpg)
Add a spinner decal and the playfield is done !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20288.jpg)
$#$
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Wow . How good does that look . Excellent work as usual Nino. ^^^
One day I might pay as much attention to detail as you .
Cheers
Dave
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Stunning results mate ^^^
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Looks brilliant playfield came up fantastic
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Looks brilliant playfield came up fantastic
+1 Playfield looks sweet!
Great result Nino!! #*#
el_timbo
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Another one well done Nino specially love the photo of the lockbar mech looks clean as
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Mintier than factory mate, great job as always.
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Thanks for the kind words, peeps. "Realtime" resto starting soon. I can only "drag" this resto on for "so long" #@#
I was lucky with the playfield. It was already in excellent condition - which is always a bomus and it makes the results so much better !
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Nino, sensational result! By the way, where would you recommend buying the Alltek MPUs ... directly from Alltek, or elsewhere?
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jeezus thats a SWEET lookn playfield!! and nice job done on the apron ^^^ ^^^ ^^^
did you use waterslide decal paper or adhesive backed paper??
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Nino, sensational result! By the way, where would you recommend buying the Alltek MPUs ... directly from Alltek, or elsewhere?
Years ago - I bought a few from the USA - might have been Pinball Resource. The last one I bought was from PSPA.
jeezus thats a SWEET lookn playfield!! and nice job done on the apron ^^^ ^^^ ^^^
did you use waterslide decal paper or adhesive backed paper??
I used adhesive backed vinyl from "Snap Printing". Very tough material and was not too glossy. Worked a treat.
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Thought I'd finish the thread with some "after" shots of this restore.
Under the bonnet
As with all my games, all parts are removed, cleaned and tumbled. All mechanisms are rebuilt and replaced with new parts where needed - but ALWAYS - New coil sleeves. Flipper rebuild kit is manditory.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20105.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20285.jpg)
Inside the door - always rebuild the internals of the door. I REGRAIN (not polish) the door skin as that was how it was done in the factory. I HATE the high polish that some people do to the front door and siderails. Looks VERY un natural.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%201989.jpg)
Final pictures
Playfield without the flash ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20100.jpg)
Final pictures of the playfield with the spinner installed. This was simply an image with a piece of mylar.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20291.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20293.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20295.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/strikes/Picture%20290.jpg)
This was sold to a collector who owns several machines I've restored. I think it was later onsold to a guy starting out in the hobby in NSW. I'm not 100% sure.
Definitely a fine playing early Bally with an excellent art package.
Next Bally restore will be either a Fathom or an Eight Ball $#$
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AMAZING detail on this one Nino!!
Strikes is a game that will one day be in my lineup...just have to find one !!!
This is exactly how i would want my game to look, top notch man #*#
Timbo
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Great result mate, looks fantastic ^^^
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Beautiful, beautiful work Nino.
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I'll say one thing for Nino, he certainly doesn't do things by halves :lol
Great work Nino as we would expect.
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Thanks for the kind words - as always - it is very much appreciated. I've been busy "disposing" of the old video machines and I'll be catching up with the current restores shortly.
Will be two older EMs and an SS. I'll also be revisiting the Pro Football restore.
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awesome job
i live to see such detailed restores =)