The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Ric on May 19, 2009, 02:31:47 PM
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Hi there
I have finally gotten around to putting in for some long overdue leave and will be looking to attack a number of projects pretty hard during that time.
One of them is a super star boght from Tony (illawarra_steelers) a long time ago. The playfield had a bit of bare wood that has now been nicely touched up and cleaned.
I now want to get it clear coated - pretty much it seems there are no off the shelf products in Australia that will do the trick.
Has anyone in Sydney used anywhere they would recommend to have it done professionally?
Alterntively, and this is a bit of a cop out, could I just wax the PF or will this just lead to the wear returning over time
Cheers
Ric
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It is always nicer to see a restored playfield on a "keeper" title. If it were me, there is no harm in some investigative work and they weight up the pros and cons. Maybe a compromise of a touch up on the playfield and mylar to protect it ?
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Does everybody on this forum own at least one game that used to mine? :lol
I can't even remember where that game came from!
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at least one Tony, I have a number!!!
I think I you told me where this one came from originally at the time
I think with the older EM's sometimes the clear looks better than mylar
I have had an offer from an automotive place near me however I wanted to see if anyone had used someone they could recommend?
I initally thought about doing it myself but the products just don't seem to be out there
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Hi Ric.
What paints did you use to do the touch ups??
The PF will already have a very thin layer of clear over the top of it... now you have a choice - clear over ALL the PF or protect what you have touched up to match what already exists.
Were you at Expo?? I had a bally Lost World PF that was an example of touch up work there. I "cleared" over my work to match the existing finish - you cant see it at all
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Yeah he was there! How could you miss him?
Motley Crue shirt and purple sideburns!
Oh the youngsters of today :lol :lol
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the issue for me is that the PF had a lot of wear near the jet bumpers (that is what WMS called them right?) and then spot wear on other part sof the pf that I blended in.
The PF also had bad ball swirl marks like most WMS em's and I have them gone over those areas withteh magic eraser
The PF looks pretty good now however I want to ensure that it is all protected when I put it back together and attempt to get it going
so any help or pointers would be appreciated.
as for the burns Tony they are half what they were a year ago and the hair was about a third of its length
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SORRY TO DISAGREE WITH YOU GAVIN BUT I SAY DONT CLEAR COAT IT MYLAR IT !
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I am open to suggestions on either front and would like to know why some say clear and others mylar?
I can understand there may be an issue with the paints reacting to the clear - i used acrylics
Mylar would certainly be easier to apply
Can you buy it in Australia or do you need to go OS? I have a roll from a while back but want to get new stuff
thanks for the input
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Gday Ric
I will shortly being doing my 1st ever touchups on one of my EM playfields so am very interested in this thread, which way you decide to go, and pics of your PF when finished.
Cheers
Dave
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Didnt use CC on the LW playfield - because this was strictly a touch up job, i only protected what i had to.
The original finish is a linseed based finish.
I used 2 pac polyurathane which is available at Bunnings thinned down in an airbrush.
9 years down the track and the work is still solid - no more wear to the kickouts - i only sprayed these areas.
I also used standard acrylics to do the touch ups.
Not one person at Expo could spot the work... i even got accused of being a liar.... now that IS a compliment!
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Yes certainly is testament to your work Gav.
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the two pac poly sounds very interesting
Gavin - I know this is asking a lot however do you have anywhere where you have posted how you did this or can you recommend which 2-pac poly to use?
I have some old PF's that I would like to try this out on before trying it on the Super Star
I pretty much know that the pop/jet bumpers is what needs to be protected with other areas most likely not needing the same attention.
thanks for the help
Once I start I promise to try to photogrpah the progess
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RIC. JUST LOOK HOW GOOD MYLAR LOOKS, THIS IS THE LAST PIN THAT I MYLARED .
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=1235.15
WHY I PREFER MYLAR OVER PAINT !
1. MOST CLEAR COATS GO YELLOW OVER TIME, THEN HOW DO YOU REMOVE IT ?
2. YOU CAN ALWAYS RETAIN A HIGH GLOSS WITH MYLAR BY POLISHING IT, eg CUT & POLISH
3. CLEAR COAT MUST BE PAINTED IN A WARM , DUST AND WIND PROOF ENVIRONMENT.
4. CLEAR COAT CAN LIFT OR SMUDGE ANY NEW WORK THAT WAS PREFORMED.
5. ONE SLIGHT TRACE OF OIL OF ANY KIND ON THE PF AND THE CLEAR COAT FINISH LOOKS LIKE PUDDLES.
6. YOU DONT HAVE TO MASK UP ALL GLOBE HOLES OR TARGETS.
THERE'S A GUY I KNOW WHO CLEAR COATED A TERMINATOR 2 AND THE PAINT STARTED LIFTING ON MOST OF THE PLASTICS ON THE PF. SO WHAT DO YOU DO NOW ? VERY VERY HARD FIX .
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Holy Crap - that's mylar - I would have said polyurethane for sure
I am leaning mylar as my work area is an old garage - and it gets pounded by wind and the dust gets in too
does Mark C sell mylar?
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RIC. JUST LOOK HOW GOOD MYLAR LOOKS, THIS IS THE LAST PIN THAT I MYLARED .
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=1235.15
Thanks for posting that Spurr ! I had completely forgotten about that resto of yours . Now that you've reminded me about it I am definitely leaning towards mylaring my whole PF (on my Lady Luck) .
The question is :-
are there different brands/rhicknesses of mylar ? Would be keen to know the brand and thickness of myalr you used on that beautiful resto of yours.
The mylar on my other EM's (which is probably original) just doesn't clean up anywhere near as nice as your Bank a Ball.
Cheers
Dave
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~You only need to protect the work youve done with a thin layer - after that a good waxing and good balls wil keep it nice and pristine - also original looking. You sure you need to cover the whole PF??
With restoration - whispers are the go... do as little as possible. Of course if youve done a whole PF repaint then cover the whole PF, but if its a touch up then a full PF coating is a bit excessive IMO.
Im not a big fan of CC either and ill only do it if customer insists - even then ill offer alternatives or if ive repainted that much that a full CC is the only option.
Spurr is right - linseed based finishes do yellow over time, but unless youve removed the finish thats already there, then it will continue to yellow under your new mylar.
What you do to your machine is your choice... but remember the choices you make today may well be the ones you regret tomorrow.
There are many options to choose from.
Mylar can be removed - so can acrylic CC
I used 2 pac poly around the kickouts because it allowed me protect right down inside the PF at the bare wood also - this is where the ball hits time and time again and often this timber is eroding.
It also matches perfectly the original factory finish - semi gloss is the go.
For touch ups i use nothing but the poly through an air brush.
Im also a firm believer in keeping things as original as poss and if a PF is pre Mylar then it should remain so. If it is a painted PF - it should remain so - no friggin stickers!
I have a Wms APOLLO here that has the PF Mylared - im itchin to get the damn stuff off!... One word for it - sacriliage!
LOL!!! Rant rant
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~You only need to protect the work youve done with a thin layer - after that a good waxing and good balls wil keep it nice and pristine - also original looking. You sure you need to cover the whole PF??
With restoration - whispers are the go... do as little as possible. Of course if youve done a whole PF repaint then cover the whole PF, but if its a touch up then a full PF coating is a bit excessive IMO.
Im not a big fan of CC either and ill only do it if customer insists - even then ill offer alternatives or if ive repainted that much that a full CC is the only option.
Spurr is right - linseed based finishes do yellow over time, but unless youve removed the finish thats already there, then it will continue to yellow under your new mylar.
What you do to your machine is your choice... but remember the choices you make today may well be the ones you regret tomorrow.
There are many options to choose from.
Mylar can be removed - so can acrylic CC
I used 2 pac poly around the kickouts because it allowed me protect right down inside the PF at the bare wood also - this is where the ball hits time and time again and often this timber is eroding.
It also matches perfectly the original factory finish - semi gloss is the go.
For touch ups i use nothing but the poly through an air brush.
Im also a firm believer in keeping things as original as poss and if a PF is pre Mylar then it should remain so. If it is a painted PF - it should remain so - no friggin stickers!
I have a Wms APOLLO here that has the PF Mylared - im itchin to get the damn stuff off!... One word for it - sacriliage!
LOL!!! Rant rant
Really appreciate your input Gav .. thanks ^^^
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LOl.. ill get off me high horse now...
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i am still tossing up which way to go
WIll have another look a tthe PF in detail and make a deicision
Gav - can you advise what polyurethane you used and what you used to thin it?
Cheers
Ric
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Would have been Wattyl from a tin - theres an additive that is on the same shelf which makes it go rock hard. Thinners is straight turps..
it doesnt need thinning back that much - just enough to flow through an air brush
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Well always good to get your opinion Gav
I always think along your lines if its not needed dont bother. \
Keep up the great work Gav