The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Wotto on October 24, 2010, 06:30:42 PM
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Hey all
So this Hot Hand doesnt need a whole lot done to it - it plays really well already
I spent today changing all the coil sleeves , cleaning switches and threw some new rubbers on it just so I can at least play a decent game whenever I want to.
However there are some things I am going to try on this game.
1) Playfield Wear
I have seen a few Hot Hands that suffer from the same wear issue around the 'cards' in the centre of the playfield - this game has 2 cards that have issues....
(http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/1893/originalplayfieldwear.jpg)
(http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/3817/originaljackclose.jpg)
My plan is to draw decals for those area's using that 'micro-thin' vinyl material used at Print shops.
I started to make some up this afternoon but I will have to wait until I have stripped the playfield and cleaned it all up so that I get the finals printed to the same colour as my clean playfield ends up.
(http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/6024/printablejackandqueen.jpg)
2) Backglass - those faded reds
Hopefully I can explain my idea correctly.
Lets face it , no-one is ever going to reproduce BG's such as this one and even if they did , not many would feel the game would warrant $450 upwards on a repro glass.
So I have a cheap nasty idea to restore the reds WITHOUT destroying the original artwork AND it would all be reversible - that may just work.
You will see this BG is in terrific shape from behind - it doesnt have a single scratch or webbing etc anywhere.
(http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/3023/bgrear.jpg)
However from the front you will not the reds are all light pink.
(http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/3729/bghighlightreds.jpg)
My idea is to use red cellophane BETWEEN the rear of the backglass and a custom piece of full size perspex that would sit against the rear of the backglass.
I have seen cellophane used before and when lit , the backglass looked excellent - but it was stuck to the actual artwork and I wasnt going to do that.
So the idea is to scan the front of the backglass and then use the scans to cut the red shapes out of cellophane.
Then I would stick those pieces in the correct places ON THE INSIDE OF THE PERSPEX SHEET so that when it sits against the backglass the reds 'land' in the correct spots.
(http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/9254/perspexidea.jpg)
I have no idea if this will work but the idea of using a sheet of perspex to 'preserve' flaking backglasses came into my head years ago and I never tried it.
When I saw the cellophane idea I thought I would combine the 2 ideas and see what happens.
I assume this will be very time consuming :lol !!! !!!
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Wotto, Thanks for taking the time to post this issue. It is great to see how you propose to work through a problem and then see the results! Good luck. ^^^
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Very interesting idea Wotto . I really hope it works for you . I will be wrapped if it does as I have a '65 Gottlieb Thorobred project who's BG has areas of missing paint that are all the same colour (funnily enough Red) .
Best of luck and please post on your progress with this idea.
Cheers
Dave
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Hi Wotto, looking forward to seeing the end results, and to see how your idea for fixing the faded reds in the BG works..
your BG is MUCH better than mine !!!
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I had a feeling that this process involved something like cellophane. I like the idea - this could solve the red issue that plagues FLASH as well.
Need to ensure that the lamps behind the 2mm perspex do not make contact / or cause pressure behind the glass. I look forward to the progress !
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I had a feeling that this process involved something like cellophane. I like the idea - this could solve the red issue that plagues FLASH as well.
Need to ensure that the lamps behind the 2mm perspex do not make contact / or cause pressure behind the glass. I look forward to the progress !
Haha - I saw the red cellophane done on a Flash actually - it turned the light pink fade into a beautiful deep blood red - when lit.
Yes mate I have numerous 'things to check with this - surely there would be 1.5 -2mm from the lamp tip the BG rear *!@
I also have to look at how to attach the large sheet of perspex to the BG - AND if it 'bows' in the middle I will sort some type of 'dowel' posts that I will have to ensure wont be seen as well ( as big black dots from the front when lit !@# )
Will have fun experimenting anyway.
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Acrylic does expand quite a bit due to heat, obviously, the thinner you go the more any heat affects it. I dont really see it as being too much of an issue though.You can get 1.2mm acrylic and if you give me the spacing behind the sheet and the backbox front, ill have some rectangular clear cut for you to use as spacers - these simply glue into place. You could then insert the clear sheet in the backbox in the BG channel and then insert the BG... if we get our spacing correct then the BG will simply clamp it in place... whole thing holds itself in position.
or - you could simply tape it in place along the BG trim.. wouldnt notice it at all.
...all food for thought!
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Looking forward to this one Wotto...!
Keep the pics coming.
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Great ideas mate, look forward to seeing how these turn out *%*
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Wonder why it is that some reds fade where others dont?
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Keen to see the results - I've a Joker Poker bg in great condition other than the faded reds - was looking at it on the weekend and thinking about just that issue.
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nice idea ^^^
will be keeping an eye on this thread to see how it turns out
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This could actually work && &&
Here is a VERY VERY rough 10 minute test I did tonight.
Excuse my 'test rig' - it is a small piece of perspex and some builders line and a very roughly cut heart shape :lol
(http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/6905/righ.jpg)
This is it from the front - thats ONE piece of red cellophane - I will do it using 2 or 3 pieces to make it deeper/ richer colour when the proper time comes.
As I thought - this will be a SLOW and time consuming excercise to get all the reds in the right places - but maybe it will be worth it.
(http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/306/test1vz.jpg)
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Will be fiddly - but a nice result! ^^^
What about a Maroon type red with a bright LED to tone it down a bit - might work with one sheet of cellophane? (I have NFI!)
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An excellent result for such an early test.
Suggestion - Print the sections from scans of the front of the backglass. Select the RED sections, and print the red sections (laser printer or similar) on A4 transarency. That way, you might be able to slot the A4 sheets behind the backglass trim ?
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An excellent result for such an early test.
Suggestion - Print the sections from scans of the front of the backglass. Select the RED sections, and print the red sections (laser printer or similar) on A4 transarency. That way, you might be able to slot the A4 sheets behind the backglass trim ?
Yeah - this could go anywhere Nino.
I was thinking about some other , stiffer material.
Happy to see that 'an effort' WILL at least achieve some result.....now I can think it through properly.
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Big improvement, look forward to seeing how this one goes *%*
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Looking very good ^^^
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Thought I would test my theory on the bumper caps as well.
For some reason ( that someone here may be aware of ) - every Stern cap appears to be available as a repro except these ^&^
I also wanted to try a material 'better' to work with than cellophane - so I bought some sheets of RED polycarbonate sheets from my local art supplier , it is like the covers on common office document folders BUT is smooth faced as opposed to a rough feel. You can see in this image it is still see-through but.
(http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/6133/polyo.jpg)
It is slightly easier to cut as it is thick and holds some shape while cutting.
In the end I cut the heart shape out of it, then stuck 2 layers of red cellophane to the side that would be facing up against the bumper plastic - I could stick any old shape of cellophane to it as it was simple to cut around the edge of this polycarbonate to trim the cellophane to shape.
Below LEFT is the initial result....right is one of my 'un-touched' caps.
(http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/8869/bumperw.jpg)
Here is a look at the cap image from IPDB.
So I guess mine is now a little closer to this !@#
(http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/8198/image14z.jpg)
I would like to try a couple of light but solid coats of red with the airbrush on TOP of the cap as well but unsure how this would look?
Gav ?
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Enamels are best for this and also best if mixed with some clear to make a translucent colour, that way you can layer it on and not block out too much light and get a richer colour.
Several light coats required... do your initial and let dry, then apply light source behind and it will show your flaws and then spray again.
If you use a light source at the start its nigh on impossible to not spray too much to try and obtain an even colour. First coat is best done blind
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Thought I would test my theory on the bumper caps as well.
For some reason ( that someone here may be aware of ) - every Stern cap appears to be available as a repro except these ^&^
Hey Wotto
I asked PBR about them around 18 months ago. They said they had 1 cap in stock, and no plans to do another run.
Interesting that your switches around the big flipper are red. Mine are white. However, I have seen both before, so figure was just a matter of what was in the parts bin at the time :)
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Enamels are best for this and also best if mixed with some clear to make a translucent colour, that way you can layer it on and not block out too much light and get a richer colour.
Several light coats required... do your initial and let dry, then apply light source behind and it will show your flaws and then spray again.
If you use a light source at the start its nigh on impossible to not spray too much to try and obtain an even colour. First coat is best done blind
Thanks Gav - good info.
I am a little scared to do these as they are not re-available if I stuff em up &^&
Going off to buy the 2mm perspex for the backglass today.
I have worked out that there is enough clearance for that sheet before it would hit or be near the globes BUT I will have to cut the shapes out of it for all the displays etc as they sit fairly flush against the backglass normally.
Watch this space #@#
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First coat is best done blind
A few drinks helps my confidence too **)
*)* *)* *)* *)* *)*
$&&
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Thought I would update this thread as I have done a lot this week.
In no particualr order here you go ..........
The Coin Door
Here is a look at how it arrived.
It is amazing how annoying NOT having a lock on a door is to be honest.
(http://img575.imageshack.us/img575/5784/doorb4.jpg)
I went and got some Metal Hammer paint - this stuff.
(http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/4118/painty.jpg)
I sanded the door back with 400 and 360 paper so it was as smooth as I could get it.
Here is a look after 2 coats - this is a wet pic.
(http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/6263/doorspray.jpg)
I found that this paint was best to use in 2 decent coats and then one light coat to finish it off as that seemed to take any 'blotchiness' out of your final end result - worked for me.
Obviously the door trims and bolt heads are done with this as well.
(http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/5283/doorinstalled.jpg)
(http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/38/newdoor2.jpg)
I have a new lock on order and also a STERN door sticker and I will re-make the credit button surround soon.
You should also notice a vast difference in the coin insert section as well.
This was cleaned with a MILD steel wool and CLR and then polished with 'Reflections' chrome cream - my product of choice.
I also created new 'Free Play' text cards and cut new red translucent covers for them using this stuff.
It came in the standard red and also a matching ( to the old pinball style ) translucent deeper red - I got the deep red stuff.
*** I have about 2 x A4 size sheets of this left- so if anyone wants an offcut to do thier game PM me and I will send you enough to do ONE coin door ***
(http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/852/sheet.jpg)
(http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/8602/newinserts.jpg)
Pretty happy with this result ^^^
I have a new shooter rod and beehive cover coming , so the front of this game will look sweet when finally finished.
The Backglass re-colour continues
I have purchased the full size sheet of perspex.
I realise I will have to cut rectangular sections in it so that once it is placed against the rear of my BG that it can fit in around the displays as they sit hard up against the BG normally.
I will show that when I do it.
In the meantime I am creating copies of the cards so that I can stick them on the BACK of my piece of perspex to be used as 'placement guides' for the red pieces of polycarbonate and cellophane I will be using.
Once I have stuck the new red pieces in thier final place these 'placement templates will be removed forever.
I started by stitching the scanned images together in Photoshop to recreate the cards image.
You can see I have my Layer 2 at 60% so that I can 'see through it ' to make sure it sits in the exact right spot.
(http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/842/stitchedandjoiningproce.jpg)
Here is the same image with Layer 2 viewd normally.
(http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/5139/stitchedandmatched.jpg)
Then I had to find distinct points to help me create the templates at the correct sizes.
(http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/2135/hntape.jpg)
I then had to 'translate' or re-create those measurements into my files I had scanned in Photoshop so that these templates will print to the EXACT same size as the cards on the actual BG.
You can see below I used the hieght measurement of the Jack and the width between the furthest left point of the 1 and the centre of the K in the King card.
(http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/3887/measurementsx.jpg)
And here I am using the 'ruler guides' in Photoshop to make sure I have those spots placed and measured correctly.
(http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/4324/cardstemplaterulers.jpg)
On Monday I will print this image , just in simple plain old black and white on our A3 printer at work.
Then I can cut it and size test it on the actual BG.
More soon.............
The Playfield
I have pretty much completed the playfield apart from the bumper caps and waiting to recieve a new set of drop targets.
Here are various shots of it from start to finish.
I dont need to go through all that I do as most of us here realise how to get the shine back in a playfield these days.
My method of choice remains a clean with Wax and Grease remover, a MILD wipe over with Orange Solvent, then the Novus 3, then Novus 2 to finish off.
I have re-flattened the playfield plastics.
Lightly sanded and ( brush ) clear on the top holes.
Re-rubbered and globed.
Cleaned all PF posts and uses new screws where possible.
I have hand painted new black around all the PF inserts as well.
Here ya go....the old.
Take note of the ( so called ) chrome parts and compare later.
(http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/228/hh2u.jpg)
(http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/2031/kqoriginal.jpg)
(http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/2313/spinneroriginal.jpg)
Here is the playfield stripped of 95% of parts and cleaned initially.
I am waiting on new skirts so I will do the bumpers later.
(http://img573.imageshack.us/img573/1681/stripped.jpg)
I re-painted VERY lightly the white wood strips with a Satin White.
(http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/77/whiterails.jpg)
(http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/3668/rightuppernewlit.jpg)
New Spinner Decals on, bracket polished and clean posts back in the game.
(http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/8273/spinnernew.jpg)
Starting to see the PF shine come out and the chrome like a mirror now
(http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/1903/kickernew.jpg)
The new look top holes - I didnt go TOO crazy with sanding these - just smoothed em to 'baby's bum' status and then cleared.
(http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/3029/topholes.jpg)
All posts on and lit - ready for the rubbers and plastics to go back on
(http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/2914/newlitposts.jpg)
And how she looks today - just waiting on a few parts.
New acorn nuts on plastics as well.
New cards made for the apron.
I re-wrote the rules so to speak , in an order that should be more 'understandable' to a player.
(http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/8821/newoverall.jpg)
I still have to do the playfield wear fix and re-spray the black lines on the apron card surrounds - but it's coming along fairly nicely <.>
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lookn good so far Wotto ^^^ ^^^
I like the coin entry light up text cards you made, looks great, il have to steal that idea for my own Stern games :lol :lol i used clear acrylic plastic when i made mine and printed the red text colour onto clear adhesive decal sheet and stuck that to the clear, yours look much better i think *%*
its making me want to start on my own Hot Hand!!
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very very nice Wotto,
I always enjoy reading through your restores, they are very informative and packed with 'hot tips' (hot tips - hot hand - get it?? !@#)
Keep the updates coming,
Timbo
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Great work there Wotto ^^^ Keep those tips coming .. very helpful ..
So agree that the coin door makes a huge difference to the look of the machine . I've only done the door on one of my 8 games so far !!!.. always seem to have too much else to do ...
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Wow, great work on that one - I do want a Hot Hand one day, but I don't know whether it will ever be as good as your one!
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I am amazed how good that playfield is, cant wait to see how the backglass turns out #*#
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I really appreciate the artisitic side, Wotto - Photoshop etc - really can make a huge difference. That playfield looks really nice.
This will be the sweetest looking Hot Hand around !
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Very impressive Wotto.
It has come up a treat. ^^^
I personally think it is a great game to play. My 2 cents.... *%* !@#
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Bumper Caps done today.
A reminder of what I started with.
(http://img602.imageshack.us/img602/4979/img4655.jpg)
(http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/2166/img4800oe.jpg)
As mentioned - the 'hopeful' idea is to re-spray the tops with an airbrush and also to use red polycarbonate and cellophane underneath the caps and hopefully re-create the original look of the heart shape red in these caps.
My weapons of choice are a scalpal knife and some clear contact.
(http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/3379/img4804k.jpg)
(http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/387/img4806n.jpg)
(http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/244/img4811.jpg)
Then it was out to the garage and onto the 'workbench' , in this case the top of my step ladder.
I taped all the gaps.
(http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/4757/img4816h.jpg)
Now I may look like I know what I am doing in this next shot, but really I had no idea :lol !!! :lol
I just mixed up the red / thinners I had in a 40/60 mix and then slowed my air rate down on my compressor and sprayed away.
I did 2 LIGHT coats.
(http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/7489/img4819.jpg)
Underneath each cap I have used a STRONG spray glue and glued these heart shapes to the cap.
I have ONE piece of polycarbonate and 3 sheets of cellophane on each.
Cellophane facing up and touching the cap.
(http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/8999/img4831n.jpg)
And here is the end result.
I think it turned out pretty well to be honest.
(http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/223/img4833b.jpg)
And a nice big lit close up for you.
(http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/381/img4837s.jpg)
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What a difference brings the caps back to life , are you using Leds inside the bumpers to reduce the heat?
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Funny that you mention the heat because I meant to add in my write up that I 'just have to wait and see how these handle the heat" - and forgot.
So I will see what happens and MAY drop LED's in there as an experiment anyway !@#
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Great work Wotto, game is coming along very nicely
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Good result there Wotto. Certainly improvemes the overall look of the machine ^^^
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Looking good mate ^^^
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Looking good Wotto!. You're certainly an "Ideas man".
Ah, got the rubber stretched over I see. Good one :)
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Nice job, Wotto !
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Thanks guys.
I have to say that the caps actually look beter in real life.
They are a nice deep red when lit that I cant capture with my current camera.
New camera due shortly ( Panasonic G2 ) so hopefully I can get better shots of my games then ( more true colours )