The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Strangeways on March 02, 2011, 11:27:33 PM
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Next in the resto queue is a favorite of mine, Gottlieb Buccaneer. This restoration is one I've moved up the queue as I really enjoy doing wedgeheads.
Background
I picked up this machine from a Holiday Resort in Lakes Entrance a few years ago. I saw the game pictured in their gamesroom on the web before we booked. Naturally, we had to stay at this place #@# . Anyway, when we got there, I saw the machine and it was neglected. I spoke to the manager and asked him if he would mind if I "fixed" the machine. He said it had not been played for years. I switched it on, adjusted the coin switch and started a game. His eyes popped out of his head ! I told him it needs rubbers, globes etc etc - and a new plunger. I told him that when I get home I'll post him all the parts he needs to get it earning again ! I "had" to leave my details in case he ever sold it.. When I got home, I sourced the parts and told him I would sent the package. He asked me how much it was worth, "not for the parts son, for the machine" !, and then he said he would contact me in a few months.. Which he did ! He called me up and said " Can you pick it up within the week ?" I bolted down there and picked it up that weekend (8 hour return trip). I brought it home and it has been in my garage ever since. I ordered the parts, and it has been sitting there for nexarly three years. Until last weekend !
Objective
This machine should be a straight forward restore. Cabinet does not need repainting, but I've sent images off to Gavin to create licensed stensils for his business. The game WORKS and is just missing the spinner, which ironically, is on one of my Pro Footballs - Go figure ! This won't be a massive restore, as it is in VERY good condition with minimal corrosion.
Condition
Cabinet - 8/10 - For its AGE, it is VERY tidy. No damage, just worn near the flipper buttons
Playfield - 8/10 - Easy. Very nice colours, there are some sunken inserts which I need to attend to and a dirty big wear spot near the RHS outlane. Contact was used to cover the playfield - including the wear !@#
Electrical - 9/10 - REALLY good. Everything is intact. Looking forward to rebuilding the steppers even though they are all working fine
Backglass - 7/10 - Some flaking, but I will arrest this and look at touching it up - only one or two colors affected.
Before pictures
I'm using bigger pictures for this restore - so if they are too big etc - let me know
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20007.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20008.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20010.JPG)
Have a look at the plunger assy !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20017.JPG)
.. and a picture to prove she works - But hardly ANY globes work !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20018.JPG)
Playfield Disassembly and contact removal
Starting with the playfield. The contact is really easy to remove. The adhesive is soft and remains on the playfield. I used a hari dryer and patience. Here are some shots before I removed it. It is almost like a mountainscape around the inlanes. This is why you need to cut rings around posts in the contact / mylar. It is raised very badly to the point of affecting ball travel.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20047.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20048.JPG)
Contact removal - moving down the playfield in sections using a hair dryer, pliers and a scalpel
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20049.JPG)
Nasty touch up around the bumper - which is behind the bumper and covered by a plastic. It is not a wear spot - the ball does not travel near this section. I think when the playfield was disassembled (years ago), a chemical was dropped on the artwork. This problem is in three seperate places, and looks to be unnaturally worn.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20050.JPG)
Opps ! First of many inserts to pop out !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20051.JPG)
Contact fully removed, with an ugly residue
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20052.JPG)
More inserts removed. I ended up removing all of them. Great sign was that none are worn, but they look to be poorly installed in the factory.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20053.JPG)
End of first installment !
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Nice playfield for its age
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Looks like it will come up nice Nino. Thats the first time i've seen a Gottlieb pf with loose inserts, everyone i've seen or worked on its a real task to get them out when you want them out of the pf, :lol
Are there any plans to touch up the bit of wear that is present on the pf? and will you be doing any backglass touchup yourself or getting someone else to do it? It looks ok from what i can see in the pic. How bad is the flaking and is it in lit areas of the glass?
buccaneer is an old favourite of mine so i will be looking forward to seeing your progress with this one ^^^
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Yes, the playfield is very good for its age. I'm still dumbfounded at the paint loss. I do plan on airbrushing the pop bumper area, even though it is totally obscured. The RED and YELLOW in the right outlane is missing and the white section under the plastic in the top right hand corner is very bad. I'm about to teach myself airbrushing. So that will be really interesting.
The paint "loss" and inserts popping out is really strange.
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That sure is one of the great "How I found this pinball stories! #*# Thanks for sharing.
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Nice look forward to following the resto *%*
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Certainly a great base to start with Nino and will look 10000% by the time you've finished!
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I'm SLOWLY removing the residue from the playfield. I'm using shellite and some old rags. The good news is that under the contact and residue is a perfectly preserved playfield. The areas missing paint are not wear areas. They are not areas where contact removed paint, or high traffic has worn the playfield. There are two mysteries with this playfield. The paint "erosion" areas and the inserts which are popping out of the playfield. I have removed nearly all the inserts.
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Beauty another EM thread. And as nick mention one of the best stories on how you came tonpwn the game.
Playfield does look good but the inserts are a little disturbing as Mitch said these are usually rock solid
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Watching this one Nino .... you lucky bugger *%*
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Looks like a fun game to play looking forward to this
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Great looking machine Nino, always loved Buccaneer.
Love the story too about how you came across it and looking forward to the no doubt "stunning" end result.
I have a Cardwhiz playfield with loose inserts. Maybe it was a bad batch of glue.
Hope you leave the hand painted 20cents label there it adds character :lol
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Looks like a fun game to play looking forward to this
For a game with no drop targets, it is still immensely fun to play. This will be a quick restoration (compared to Aces High) as this is a better base to start off with. I'm almost 3/4 of the way through the playfield contact residue removal, and I'm very pleased with the condition and Im "thinking ahead" to the airbrushing.
Great looking machine Nino, always loved Buccaneer.
Love the story too about how you came across it and looking forward to the no doubt "stunning" end result.
I have a Cardwhiz playfield with loose inserts. Maybe it was a bad batch of glue.
Hope you leave the hand painted 20cents label there it adds character :lol
Bingo - exactly what I was thinking tonight. Has to be bad glue, or not enough glue. The inserts are very clean, and the holes have no glue to speak of.
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More Playfield !
With hardly any effort, I removed the remainder of the inserts with my finger, pushing them up from the bottom of the playfield. Took only a couple of minutes and then I had a playfield with no inserts.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20055.JPG)
Here are the inserts ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20056.JPG)
Each insert is cleaned. The side is roughed up with a scotchbrite and I used Super Glue gel to re install. All were level and left to dry for 24 hours.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20058.JPG)
On to the cabinet
The cabinet is completely stripped bare. I take a few pictures so I know where things go after cleaning / polishing / repairing or replacing ! This particular cabinet is very sound compared to most I've seen.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20059.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20060.JPG)
All that is left is the legs. The siderails and plastic guide are removed to be cleaned properly and the loose staples are replaced. I will regrain the side rails, and install new nails.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20061.JPG)
The legs I have chosen are a better set than the originals - still the CORRECT size and type. I've polished them with the legbolts and installed new leg levellers. The siderails have been regrained using a green scotchbrite as they were not as scratched as most I've seen. The cabinet was cwashed and cleaned with Nifti and an old paint brush.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20062.JPG)
Here's the RHS with the regrained siderail.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20063.JPG)
I already ordered most of the parts some time ago, so things will pick up.
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Great restore thread Nino @@*
Look forward to the finished pics,
Cheers
Dave
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Looking Good
cheers
Bill
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I hadn't looked into the Restorations area of the forum for a few weeks (I know, shame on me), and low and behold there are two machines that have popped up that have caught my eye - this one of course, and Paragon.
Nino, wonderful machine. Played this one umpteen times on weekends back around the 1977-1981 years at a Bowling alley. Sad thing is I haven't touched a Buccaneer for about 30 years now. Didn't care much for bowling, but loved the pins (also remember a Mata Hari next to it which I played alot as well). I had a love-hate feeling for this game. Loved the challenge time and time again, but hated how much effort it took for me to just get the special lit, then trying desperately to get the pop! Hit it up through the spinner, and hope the the ball comes down the rollover that's lit (and hope the special light doesn't alternate too much between the two rollovers while the ball is bouncing around).
Now that's a story for the pickup ... you don't see many of these, so that also makes it special as well.
I'm SLOWLY removing the residue from the playfield. I'm using shellite and some old rags.
I have read on this forum the use of Shellite mainly for cleaning the PF rubbers, and also for removing wax if needed. Is Nifti usually sufficient for removing grime, and if not, is Shellite the next step for the grime removal?
I will regrain the side rails, and install new nails.
I take it that the side rails and lockdown bar are always to be regrained, never to be polished, correct? What is the process for regraining? You did mention scotchbrite, but do you use any agent with this?
Here's the RHS with the regrained siderail.
Looks great, and really does make a difference between deciding to just "leave it as is" versus bringing it back to its glory days.
OK, OK, I had better pay attention to the resto section more often.
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I hadn't looked into the Restorations area of the forum for a few weeks (I know, shame on me), and low and behold there are two machines that have popped up that have caught my eye - this one of course, and Paragon.
Nino, wonderful machine. Played this one umpteen times on weekends back around the 1977-1981 years at a Bowling alley. Sad thing is I haven't touched a Buccaneer for about 30 years now. Didn't care much for bowling, but loved the pins (also remember a Mata Hari next to it which I played alot as well). I had a love-hate feeling for this game. Loved the challenge time and time again, but hated how much effort it took for me to just get the special lit, then trying desperately to get the pop! Hit it up through the spinner, and hope the the ball comes down the rollover that's lit (and hope the special light doesn't alternate too much between the two rollovers while the ball is bouncing around).
Now that's a story for the pickup ... you don't see many of these, so that also makes it special as well.
I'm SLOWLY removing the residue from the playfield. I'm using shellite and some old rags.
I have read on this forum the use of Shellite mainly for cleaning the PF rubbers, and also for removing wax if needed. Is Nifti usually sufficient for removing grime, and if not, is Shellite the next step for the grime removal?
I will regrain the side rails, and install new nails.
I take it that the side rails and lockdown bar are always to be regrained, never to be polished, correct? What is the process for regraining? You did mention scotchbrite, but do you use any agent with this?
Here's the RHS with the regrained siderail.
Looks great, and really does make a difference between deciding to just "leave it as is" versus bringing it back to its glory days.
OK, OK, I had better pay attention to the resto section more often.
I use Shellite to remove the sticky residue left over from the contact removal. Tedious job that used 90% of the bottle !
From factory - All doors, siderails and lock down bars are grained. Only the machines with the smaller door (Pro Football / Drop-A-Card etc) have chromed or polished doors. PBR repro doors are chromed and highly polished. I used to use 180 grit wet/dry, then 360 wet/dry sandpaper with Windix. I now use RED scotchbrite pads and windex. The RED scotchbrite pads are available from auto supply shops. I regrain the parts, never polishing or buffing.
Enjoy the thread Steve #@#
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More Cabinet work
Most of the hardware is simply washed and tossed into the tumbler with some flitz. The door is regrained on the outside and polished on the inside. The coin lock out assemblies are missing, but are not required on home games, so I plan on leaving this "as is". The new ball shooter assembly is installed, and with the polished legs, it is starting to look very nice !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20064.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20065.JPG)
New flipper buttons (and the door) and of course new flipper switch contacts. No stone unturned !
The lock down bar assembly needed the old plating removed and some time spent cleaning up and polishing. took a while, but it looks great.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20066.JPG)
Tilt Mech - just prior to install. A light sand and re assembly into the cabinet
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20067.JPG)
Moving on to the head
I've removed the backglass. It is stored in a safe place until I seal it and touch up some of the areas around the main sail. Here's some "before pictures" - This is where I'm at as of this evening !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20068.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20069.JPG)
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Coming along very nicely mate ^^^
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Looking great so far Nino ^^^
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The headboard is removed from the headbox. Time to rebuild the steppers, relays and scorereels. Thankfully, it is a wedgehead and there is only one set of scorereels to be rebuilt !
Here is the headboard removed
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20070.JPG)
Fast forward to the first Stepper rebuild. I use machine oil (3 in 1) on the bakerlite and on the shaft. Prior to rebuilding it, it was sluggish - operational - but only just !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20071.JPG)
Rebuilt credit unit. Was also a bit sluggish, but it works 100% now !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20076.JPG)
I removed the scorereel housing as it had some surface corrosion - enough to annoy me ! I cleaned it with Ranex, windex and some brasso. Looks heaps better !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20073.JPG)
Steppers rebuilt, all the jones connectors have been cleaned (with ranex as there was some surface corrosion) and the relays have been rebuilt - including the contacts cleaned and adjusted. All that is left to do are the scorereels.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20074.JPG)
Here's the first scorereel completed !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20077.JPG)
&&
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Nice work mate, what do you clean your score reel with, the actual plastic with the numbers? I was unsure if the ink could handle cleaning !@#
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Looking great Nino ^^^
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Love all those shiny bits! ^^^
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Nice work mate, what do you clean your score reel with, the actual plastic with the numbers? I was unsure if the ink could handle cleaning !@#
If the paint is peeling - be VERY careful. Rarely the case, but it can peel further.
I soak the reel in water, when I use a soft toothbrush with nifti. Spray on the toothbrush, then gently scrub the reel. Rinse in water.
I don't use Novus 2, as it is too aggressive and removes paint.
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Nino, looking very, very nice. Another query on the scorereel. If the black in the digits is weak and/or some bits missing, what would be recommended for "filling the voids" in with? I have an EM (Bally DQ) that has patchy digits on the scorereels due to wear/age, and thinking about touching them up.
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Nino, looking very, very nice. Another query on the scorereel. If the black in the digits is weak and/or some bits missing, what would be recommended for "filling the voids" in with? I have an EM (Bally DQ) that has patchy digits on the scorereels due to wear/age, and thinking about touching them up.
I use a sharpie pen ! Difficult to spot when you are bust flipping !
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Great work Nino ^^^
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The headbox is cleaned and placed back on the body. I remove the instruction cards and relaminte them. I also place "beer seal" on the two brackets which hold the backglass in place. These are screwed into the top of the head and are always overlooked. Polish the channel as well Looking good !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20078.JPG)
Install the head board after rebuilding all the mechs etc
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20079.JPG)
The bottom baseboard. Much the same - everything is rebuilt. All contacts cleaned and adjusted. Corrosion removed from the brass screw holding the coil in the relay housing. I hate rust and corrosion ! I'll replace the power cable tomorrow, and drop the board into the machine. Then back to the playfield !
Before ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20080.JPG)
After ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20081.JPG)
$#$
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When I see this level of attention, no question you have gone after the extra mile. These parts of the restore, I suspect, are those areas which some of us would say "good enough, she'll be right, leave it as is". Very commendable level of thoroughness Nino!
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Many hours of work there ! Excellent work ! @@*
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Thnaks for the update Nino . I am just so lazy with my work compared to you *%*
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I'm not a big fan of EM's but I love reading your restoration threads.
The skill, and attention to detail you display is amazing.
Almost makes me want to buy one ^^^
Awesome work.
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I'm not a big fan of EM's but I love reading your restoration threads.
The skill, and attention to detail you display is amazing.
Almost makes me want to buy one ^^^
Awesome work.
Thanks - I appreciate your kind words.
I love documenting the restores and sharing the knowledge. Like others that document restores, the passion is "spreading the news" - and even if ONE person (like yourself) sees one of the restores that we do and buys a machine to "have a go", then my job is done. It is all worthwhile.
Thanks to all for the kind words. I appreciate them and it makes me want to do a couple more hours every day !
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That is awesome mate ^^^
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More painting. Although my airbrushing skills have gone from ZERO to OK - I still need to work on color matching. I still have "no idea" and I spend most of my time experimenting. I heard that acrylics dry darker - well that does not seem to be true for me !
Here's an EASY part - the whire area that is not really seen, located at the top right hand corner. The paint was falling off, so I primed the area, sanded and created a mask from a cut of "frisket". I mask the area off and paint the white color with the airbrush. Took 2 minutes !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20082.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20083.JPG)
Don't worry about the black lines, I'll cover them later.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20084.JPG)
The left hand passive bumper - there was a huge chunk missing, so I primed the area, sanded the old paint back for adhesion, applied the mask and some frisket for the unpainted areas and it now looks like this ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20085.JPG)
OK - it is a little too light and Blue than Green. This will come with experience with the paints. I think it is the right color, but it has not got that "worn" look. That's ok - better than it was before and I'm happy with it.
Close-Up - Really nice color and coverage. Not bad ! I'm pleased with the practice and "understanding" the airbrush and paints. Back to basics with color matching.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20086.JPG)
Lesson number 2 - Do lighter colors first. So I picked RED - Duh ! In this area, I need to paint the red, and red looks easy to match, but I found it difficult. This is the in-lane / out-lane on the right hand side.
Prior to masking, I primed the area and sanded the sections I want to paint, then cleaned with Metho. Mask the area with frisket and use a scalpul to cut the section out where I want the red to be painted. Mask the surrounding area.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20087.JPG)
No need to apply too much paint, just an even coverage. A light mist, then work the paint in evenly.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20088.JPG)
OK - the bottom section of the RED meets with the wooden lshooter lane guide. The reds don't meet, so you can't tell it has been painted. Just under the writing "when lit" you will see where the new paint meets the old. The camera makes it looks easy to spot. That's something that will improve over time, either by correct color matching or fancy cutting around the lettering.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20089.JPG)
I'm REALLY plesed so far. I know my limitations right now, and I'm going to keep the learning curve going. Comments by the gurus on improvement are welcomed and appreciated.
Looking much better !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20090.JPG)
Results are SLOW, but rewarding !
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What you can do is where the red meets the old and has a straight line is to sand this back very gently with some fine sandpaper... dont d it wet unless you can guarantee that you can keep it 100% contained. Reason is that the run off will leach into any open timber and then you have the task of pulling it out of the wood as it will tint it.
If you lightly sand that line, it takes the new paint back slightly and will "feather" the two paints together.
You can lessen this task by pulling up on the brush and create a greater distance between rush and PF as you near this line.. means you have a thinner paint here and so a lesser line.
The blue/green will match better when protective coat is down.. chances are on this that it has turned greenish over time as the linseed yellows..wouldnt surprise me if you didnt have a good match for the factory colour
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Looking really good so far Nino, you're doing well ^^^
One little trick i sometimes use when i want to blend new paint into original colour is to lift the masking along the edge of where the new paint will meet the old paint. So instead of sticking the masking hard down which would leave a line, i just leave the masking tape, contact or whatever im using, lifted and curled back slightly a few millimetres. This will allow the paint to slightly blow under and feather in with the old paint and not leave a noticeable line. I used a similar trick to this on my KISS pf for the white in the centre around the bonus inserts, (first time i tried it on a pf) :lol
i hope that makes sense :D i hate trying to describe how i do things.. especially when im tired :lol
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Thanks for the words of encouragement and advise, guys !
So now I'm moving onto the yellow and experimenting with BLACK lines. These look hard to do, and they make a huge difference if they are missing. Givin advised me to order 6mm hobby tape, and I found a cheap place in China that has them, but shipping was expensive. Anyway, time to improve the yellow area.
Here's a picture of what I need to paint and the fine hobby tape - which works REALLY bloody well !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20091.JPG)
This stuff is SO EASY to work with ! So I have a straight line and a bent line. No problems. I mask off the area with the tape.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20092.JPG)
Mask off the area properly. Prepare the paint - the YELLOW is almost a perfect match. Spray the yellow section - a "mist" coat first, then two thicker coats.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20093.JPG)
Remove the tape after 5 minutes and viola !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20094.JPG)
Now I prepared the upper section near the spot target in the update before this. It is painted white but has no BLACK lines. So I need to do this in sections (as per one of Gav's tutorials). It is quite easy, once you get the hang of it. So I'll do THREE lines first. I used the 6mm tape, then blue low tack 3M tape , and finally masking tape.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20095.JPG)
Shoot the BLACK paint from the airbrush ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20096.JPG)
Now you can see the original line, and my new lines. I still have to finish off when it has dried.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20097.JPG)
In the final picture on this update, Ive painted the YELLOW arrow. I simply used the frisket, cut out the arrow with the scapul and painted. Simple !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20098.JPG)
<..>
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NICE JOB with the yellow Nino, colour match looks perfect to me ^^^
What paints are you using? and where did you buy it?
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NICE JOB with the yellow Nino, colour match looks perfect to me ^^^
What paints are you using? and where did you buy it?
Timbo recommended "Jo Sonja" brand. I know why - It is so easy to use and there are many colors to choose from. I originally bought the paints from www.artstore.com.au, but bunnings also stock them. I bought a 250ml Black, White and Flow Medium and mixed 50/50 - until it reaches the consistency of milk. Simply awesome advice from Tim in this area ^^^
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Beautiful work Nino ^^^ - getting the colours to match must be challenging, especially hoping after it dries it hasn't changed to a slightly different colour.
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Thanks Nino, might have to give them a try next time im doing a pf resto! *%*
I always enjoy this part of a pf resto, spraying/airbrushing on the new paint, and removing the masking and seeing the results of the hard work starting to come together!! And its just as good to me, seeing other peoples pf resto efforts as it is my own.. its always inspiring to me! makes me want to start on the next game!!
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Great results Nino, great to how (reasonably) easy it is to do *%*
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Some additional work to the Buccaneer. I finished off some more clearcoating. Mainly the shooter lane, and this would be a good test to see if the clear I'm using is a good match to the original varnish (as Gavin suggested). Today, I found out it is a PERFECT match. The shooter lane is in great condition anyway, but I thought I'd give it a try.
First, I masked off the area that was not worn - so I was only painting the worn area (an "after" shot - not a "before" shot) ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20099.JPG)
A quick spray od clearcoat through the airbrush ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20100.JPG)
It blends in prefectly. I'll give it a second coat tomorrow.
I also finished off the pop bumper area with a quick clear - and it "darkened" the area to the point where it now matches the surrounding area. Pleased with the results.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20101.JPG)
The white area was also finished off. It is a little "too white", but I'm still very pleased with the outcome.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20102.JPG)
$#$
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HOLY SH*T NINO
I go away for a month, come back and see that YOU have become a bloody airbrush expert.
Sweet Jesus man - you, the one that has always told me that you have 'zero artistic skills'
You are inspiring me to start on the Joker Poker playfield seeing these results mate
Congrats for having a go and being quite damn succesful on your first attempts #*#
Now ......to teach you Photoshop :lol :lol
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Honestly Wotto - it is not that hard, but I'm only "scratching the surface". I've put in plenty of hours, but I've enjoyed the learning curve and I face the future restores with confidence. I' m even attempting clearcoating @@^
Photoshop = "information overload" <.>
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While I wait for some insert masks, I thought I'd address the backglass and the apron. Since the playfield is in such great condition, I thought it would be a good idea to refinish the apron. So I ordered the decal from Lee at Pinballrescue and started prepping the apron for a repaint.
Here is the faded apron ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20106.JPG)
I used Citrus strip from Bunnings. Took three applications and then I final clean with prepsol.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20107.JPG)
White Knight Etch Primer was applied. Required two thin coats and left to dry
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20108.JPG)
The weather has been CRAP so I can't paint the top coat until there is a nice day of 15 degrees or better - with some sun !
So instead, I move on to the backglass. I need to seal the backglass to prevent flaking. I will be retouching the glass to improve it slightly, but not while it is flaking !
Here's what I'm using. There has been debate over the longevity and durability of Krylon Triple Thick, but I have backglasses I sprayed 10 years ago that show no signs of deterioration or have any adverse effects. The can on the left is over 10 years old and I used the last of this can to seal this backglass.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20105.JPG)
Here's the backglass prior to clearing. All it needs is a good clean with a wet rag with some windex applied to the rag. When working on a flaking backglass, NEVER use compressed air or spray anything on it. Spray the windex on the wag and "dab" the glass, don't wipe. If you find an area that is flaking, just LEAVE IT DIRTY rather than risk lifting more paint.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20103.JPG)
Mask the area where the scorereel and credit windows are located. When you are ready to apply, hold the can 20 cms or more away from the glass and apply a mist coat moving quickly across the glass horizontally. Do the same vertically - to create the overlap. Wait 5 minutes and then give it a THICK coat - horizontally and then Vertically. I tried something different on this glass. Instead of waiting 24 hours for the next coat, I did it an hour later. Not as thick as the prior coat, and mainly in the area where it was flaking.
I left the glass for 48 hours (on a flat surface while it is drying), and here is the results - Very happy !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20104.JPG)
I'll start the repaint in the bad areas on the weekend.
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Gday Nino . That glass looks pretty good already (from the back anyway)
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Gday Nino . That glass looks pretty good already (from the back anyway)
The flaking section is in the top section near the match numbers. I will have to repaint areas which do look obvious when looking at the front of the glass ^^^
The sail is the main issue, I have the paint, just have to wait for the weather to improve !
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The sail is the main issue, I have the paint, just have to wait for the weather to improve !
This will be of alot of interest, as I have at least one backglass (my Freedom) that does need to be touched up. I have TT'ed it, and will need to get around to painting some parts of it where the paint has flaked off. Rather than asking you about the paints you will be using and the method, happy to wait until the story continues to unfold. I know that there is Clay's guide as well, but it's always good to learn this interactively with a resto thread on the forum.
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Steve - I will be using the same paint (Jo Sonja) that Timbo recommended. Plan is to attempt the easy parts (sail and sky section), then deal with the hard part - the match numbers. Anything is better than missing paint. It will be challenging to match the paint, but the great thing about Jo Sonja is that there are a wide range of colors and it is really easy to mix colors to find a match.
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Do you triple thick all your backglasses Nino, or just the ones that are starting to flake? The reason I ask is the Volley I restored was fairly good but had a couple of small sections where it had just started to lift similar to your buccaneer bg but not quite as much, is it worth doing to prevent any further damage?
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Do you triple thick all your backglasses Nino, or just the ones that are starting to flake? The reason I ask is the Volley I restored was fairly good but had a couple of small sections where it had just started to lift similar to your buccaneer bg but not quite as much, is it worth doing to prevent any further damage?
I decide on whether I'm going to triple thick on a "case by case" basis. If there is any sign of flaking, I will attempt to TT the area - if it is small enough, or if there are several sections, I will TT the entire glass. In this case, I had one large area and a couple of smaller areas. It is easy to just to do the entire glass once you gain confidence and know how to apply the TT. I would have to see pictures of the rear of the Volley to decide. Certainly, if it is peeling, I'd definitely takes steps to arrest the peeling with TT.
I've waited almost a week and I'm really pleased with the TT on this glass. I cleaned the scorereel windows and started the task of touching up the peeled sections. Again, I'm using Jo Sonja paints, but with a fine brush. No need to use the airbrush. Here's a picture of the area that has had significant peeling (now sealed) ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20110.JPG)
And the REAR of the section that I will be touching up
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20109.JPG)
The overall bacjglass prior to the touch ups ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20111.JPG)
So all I did was match the paint. The "sail" area was an EXACT match with a paint "off the shelf", as was the yellow sections. I mixed the read and pink closely, but I had to redo the blue as initially it was too dark. That's the beauty of sealing the backglass and working with these paints. I was able to check the color match AFTER it dried - it was too dark, so I used Metho to rub it off and start again - mixing the blue a little bit lighter.
Here's the finished backglass that I will test with some backlight before completely finishing it ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20112.JPG)
It looks MUCH better in this photo.
Playfield Update
Waiting for Aussie Post to send me some insert stencils from Gavin, so I thought I'd add some hardware and work on the playfield. The wooden siderails were sanded and repainted using the Cabot's clear that I've been using on the clearcoat work. The finish is incredibly good. I mixed some flat varnish so it was not too glossy. I've installed the metal arch as well. This was polished using Brasso on the powdercoated white finish, and I polished the metal hardware on the buffing wheel. A bit hard to see in the pictures, but the entire section looks great. I used the treasurecove kit to polish the entire playfield (except the right inlane and outlane that need the inserts painted) and it come up VERY nice. It has the exact sheen I would expect from an EM. I used their NEW wax compound to finish it off and it really looks great. One word of warning - the polishing compound react with sharpies - so be careful !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20113.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20114.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20115.JPG)
I'm really pleased with the progress of this restoration, but it has taken me SO LONG ! Results are pleasing, so I will continue the work. A rather massive order arrived from PBR late this week, so I'm keen !
^^^
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Looking pretty sweet Nino ^^^
re backglass touchups in lit sections, i usually shine a light from under the glass as im brushing the paint on. this gives me a bit of an idea how thick the paint is going on and how translucent the paint is. I did this today with my Quickdraw glass. I usually apply the paint with the light shining from underneath, then flip the glass over to see how its looking with light shining thru it...
Just a little trick that i use doing Bg touchups. Your Bg is looking great btw ^^^
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That sail and flag have really seen the battle front during the years!
Looking at the wider image you have shown for the BG, it really is a matter of fortune that the affected areas are more straight forward to touch up. Colour matching is still very important of course (and the result is stunning). But you can imagine if the affected areas were say the pirate's faces, or the intricate details on the distant ship. I would imagine that touching these up takes on a whole new level. Keenly following this, as I mentioned, I have a few BG's to do in the near future.
Is this a case of simply brushing on the paint (thin layers at a time)? You have mentioned the paint that you have used (Jo Sonja), but what types of paints can be used, or should also be avoided?
Playfield - again, stunning. I now am beginning to know how you guys feel who have done restorations. They seem to take forever!! But the patience and effort is worth it. I'm doing 6 machines at the same time (first time doing it) - a little bit here and there. Man, it just eats up the hours. Yes, resto threads will appear sometime in the (hopefully near) future.
Nino, wonderful stuff, keep it up, the pain is worth it! ^^^
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The sail area is where the match numbers are, so the touch ups will be seen at the conclusion of each game. The area is not backlit, so I'm "getting away with it". I brushed the jo sonja paint on - a little too thick - and two coats. I might TT the repainted areas depending on how it looks. I thinned the paint so it could be brushed easily.
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The sail area is where the match numbers are, so the touch ups will be seen at the conclusion of each game. The area is not backlit, so I'm "getting away with it". I brushed the jo sonja paint on - a little too thick - and two coats. I might TT the repainted areas depending on how it looks. I thinned the paint so it could be brushed easily.
What do you use to thin the jo sonja paints with, is there something special to use?
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Good stuff Nino @@*
Interested in the backglass touchups, we don't see too much of this on the forum.
Playfield looks great, can't be too far away from having a game?
Cheers
Dave
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The sail area is where the match numbers are, so the touch ups will be seen at the conclusion of each game. The area is not backlit, so I'm "getting away with it". I brushed the jo sonja paint on - a little too thick - and two coats. I might TT the repainted areas depending on how it looks. I thinned the paint so it could be brushed easily.
What do you use to thin the jo sonja paints with, is there something special to use?
There is a Jo Sonja flow medium that is used for airbrushing.
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The sail area is where the match numbers are, so the touch ups will be seen at the conclusion of each game. The area is not backlit, so I'm "getting away with it". I brushed the jo sonja paint on - a little too thick - and two coats. I might TT the repainted areas depending on how it looks. I thinned the paint so it could be brushed easily.
What do you use to thin the jo sonja paints with, is there something special to use?
As Mitch mentions - you can use flow medium, which I use with the airbrush, or just water ! Flow Medium is much better.
Good stuff Nino @@*
Interested in the backglass touchups, we don't see too much of this on the forum.
Playfield looks great, can't be too far away from having a game?
Cheers
Dave
Getting closer by the day. I'll have another update tomorrow, but it looks really good with new posts, plastics, rubbers etc !
&&
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Playfield is really coming together. I've assembled most pplayfield parts around the area I need to paint the inserts (Aussie Post lost the package from Gav, so he is kindly sending another set ^^^). Very straight forward - everything in the playfield is new. Posts, bumper mylar, bodies, caps and rubbers. All Metal is polished. The wooden side rails are refinished and look great - even the guide and guide rails are polished.
These are really just "bling" pictures more than anything, but you can see that if you really want the machine to shine, you have to spend the dollars. Let's face it, these machines DESERVE this kind of attention !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20116.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20118.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20117.JPG)
I'll start work rebuilding the bottom of the playfield shortly !
<..>
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Looking great Nino . ^^^ You were lucky with those colours matching up on the BG too.
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Very straight forward - everything in the playfield is new. Posts, bumper mylar, bodies, caps and rubbers.
With the bumper mylar, did Gottlieb (for this era) always use the "floating" or non-adhesive type? I am currently doing a restore on my Surf Champ, and the grit that got caught over the years underneath the bumper mylar ring caused alot of pitting in the playfield. It also was quite grubby underneath the ring from all the dirt that accumulated. I am planning on using adhesive rings - maybe not an exact/100% restore to its original, but I thought adhesive is the better way to go.
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Great work Nino #*#
She looks beautiful.
Darren.
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Very straight forward - everything in the playfield is new. Posts, bumper mylar, bodies, caps and rubbers.
With the bumper mylar, did Gottlieb (for this era) always use the "floating" or non-adhesive type? I am currently doing a restore on my Surf Champ, and the grit that got caught over the years underneath the bumper mylar ring caused alot of pitting in the playfield. It also was quite grubby underneath the ring from all the dirt that accumulated. I am planning on using adhesive rings - maybe not an exact/100% restore to its original, but I thought adhesive is the better way to go.
Bumper mylar was non adhesive on EMs from factory. They do have a nasty habit of collecting dirt and pounding it into the playfield, but that's not going to be a problem for a home used and maintained machine. I used the adhesive style on the Aces High as I clearcoated them and they were a wider diameter.
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Looks great so far ^^^
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That's one smick looking EM. Fantastic result ^%^.
I use the KASAR paints which you can buy from Bunnings. There is a wide range of colours as mentioned are quite thick and do need to be watered down for spraying. A number of coats are required when spraying as the water must dilute the pigments in the paint. Still a good product which works and price is reasonable. For some transparent sections, a coloured adhesive vinyl can be stuck to the rear of the BG. This difusses the BG light very well.
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More Progress - I need to rebuild every section of the playfield - underneath the playfield. All parts are tumbled, cleaned or replaced. There were a couple of coils that did not measure correctly, so I replaced them. The bumper assemblies had their yokes replaced, and even the springs were tumbled ! Here's a picture of a rebuilt bumper assembly;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20119.JPG)
Flipper assemblies are rebuilt with new flipper kits from PBR. Assemblies are polished up and look new again
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20120.JPG)
Everything is cleaned and checked. Even the corroded screws are treated with ranex. Light sockets are cleaned and new globes fitted. This is one of the best jobs on an EM, as everything "comes together" as each hour passes. Either new or polished parts are installed and the moving parts are no longer tired and sluggish.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20121.JPG)
Relay Bank is cleaned with degreaser, alcohol and dried with compressed air. All the screws are tightened, adjusted and cleaned. The coil sleeves on the reset coils are replaced. It is essential that this unit works perfectly.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20122.JPG)
Here's the other stencil Gav sent me. This is for the inserts around the inland and outlanes. I completed this two days ago. I've clearcoated this area with some really good results. The clear was a little too glossy, but it is a lot better than what was there. Here's what it originally looked like ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20087.JPG)
Here's the cleared area ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20123.JPG)
Much Better !!
Getting closer to having a game.
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That is serious clean. How do you find the time to do all this stuff? I am more than worn out doing the restores I'm currently doing, and certainly go nowhere near the level you go to. And I know I'm probably stretching the boundary with my wife &^&
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That is serious clean. How do you find the time to do all this stuff? I am more than worn out doing the restores I'm currently doing, and certainly go nowhere near the level you go to. And I know I'm probably stretching the boundary with my wife &^&
i'm simply passionate about my work. I can't explain it any other way. I find myself locked in the garage and I roll up my sleeves. I have no other hobbies or interests (except family and friends). I enjoy every minute.
I fired up the game this evening and apart from the 5000 point relay out of adjustment, it works perfectly ! I still have to re assemble the touch up area, and I found a few dodgy light sockets. The magic of hearing an EM once again !
I think I need to order new spot targets as well and finish off the apron. Getting close !
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I decided to refinish the apron as it would look "out of place" on this restoration. A decal from PinballResue was ordered while I stripped and prepared the Apron.
Here's the "before" picture ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20106.JPG)
I used Citrus Strip from Bunnings a couple of times. them removed any residue with metho and a green scotchbrite pad ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20107.JPG)
White Knight Etch Primer was applied. First a mist coat, then a couple of thicker coats over two days. I waited a week and then applied two coats of Gloss White.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20108.JPG)
Then I applied the decal from PinballRescue
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20124.JPG)
Spinner was missing from this machine ( the correct one). I ordered a repro "blank" from Pinball Resource, and Wotto was kind enough to draw the images from scratch (from photos). Cheers Mate ^^^
I printed them on my inkjet on to adhesive paper, then applied them to the spinner. finally, I cut a piece of mylar and covered both sides of the spinner.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20125.JPG)
Here's the spinner installed.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20126.JPG)
Since this was completed, I had to order the two spot targets. However, I've fired the game up and apart from some minor adjustments, it works 100%. I still have to install the Apron. I will finish it off when the targets arrive. The NEW plastics will be installed once the game is 100% completed - which won't be too long !
^^^
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can you notice the apron sticker is a sticker up close? or from playing distance?
I could just see in photos but I knew what I was looking for :lol
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Yes - you can tell it is a decal, but I'm thinking of spraying a clear, which should give it more "depth".
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brilliant ^^^ ^^^
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Spinner was missing from this machine ( the correct one). I ordered a repro "blank" from Pinball Resource, and Wotto was kind enough to draw the images from scratch (from photos). Cheers Mate ^^^
I printed them on my inkjet on to adhesive paper, then applied them to the spinner. finally, I cut a piece of mylar and covered both sides of the spinner.
Nino, where do you source the adhesive paper (Officeworks?), and any particular type of adhesive paper to use? As Wotto has very kindly produced the artwork for the Surf Champ spinner I will soon be completing, and as I have never printed to adhesive paper before, I want to ensure I finish this right. I have an inkjet printer at home (HP), but have access to a laser printer at work (more tempted to use this one). Then of course to be covered with mylar.
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Great work there Nino, looks immaculate @@* @@*
Not sure where Nino gets his selfadhesive paper,you wont get it from officeworks - I got all mine from here if it helps http://www.thecopiercompany.com.au/products.asp?id=127
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It depends on what you want to use it for, If you want to print something to add to art then you would print on a clear waterslide. but if you need to print white... you need a UV printer or simply buy some plain Glossy White A4 paper from E-Bay. Officeworks only seem to sell labels, Not sheets
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Great job, it looks like it has just come out of the factory as a new pin. @@*.
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Spinner was missing from this machine ( the correct one). I ordered a repro "blank" from Pinball Resource, and Wotto was kind enough to draw the images from scratch (from photos). Cheers Mate ^^^
I printed them on my inkjet on to adhesive paper, then applied them to the spinner. finally, I cut a piece of mylar and covered both sides of the spinner.
Nino, where do you source the adhesive paper (Officeworks?), and any particular type of adhesive paper to use? As Wotto has very kindly produced the artwork for the Surf Champ spinner I will soon be completing, and as I have never printed to adhesive paper before, I want to ensure I finish this right. I have an inkjet printer at home (HP), but have access to a laser printer at work (more tempted to use this one). Then of course to be covered with mylar.
I simply use White Inkjet Labels - Avery J8167. It is one big label - 25 sheets per pack. I only have an inkjet printer. I simply print the label and stick it (self adhesive) on the blank spinner. I then cover both sides with mylar. Works a treat - BUT - I would like to try other methods. Maybe waterslide decals etc ?
I don't think there is a "right way" to do it - I've just done it this way for years.
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I'm almost done with this restore. The technical issues are sorted out, and I really need to play it for a while just to ensure reliabilty. I want to have the machine working on the coin mechs, but there were a few parts missing so I'll have to scrounge them up from somewhere.
The major update is the installation of new spot target faces and the plastics set - which is repro. The rest is just "eye candy" ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20127.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20128.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20129.JPG)
These are pictures of the apron installed AFTER I clearcoated it using "White Knight clear" from bunnings. It no longer looks like a decal. Thanks for the tip, Gav ^^^
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20134.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20136.JPG)
This is the reparied area post clearcoat and polish. Turned out really well.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20133.JPG)
The white area that was totally repainted, and the repro spot target riveted on to the switch assy.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20135.JPG)
Finally, three of my favorite pictures of the playfield ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20131.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20132.JPG)
Here's Wotto's Decal work (ta mate) - and this is my favorite picture ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20130.JPG)
So I'm "play testing" the game at the moment, making sure everything works. I have a NOS set of instruction cards that will finish it off. I'm going to place a thin strip of mylar on the leading edge of the apron. I do this will all repainted apron to prevent ball wear.
Oh - and it plays like a dream !
$#$
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Spinner was missing from this machine ( the correct one). I ordered a repro "blank" from Pinball Resource, and Wotto was kind enough to draw the images from scratch (from photos). Cheers Mate ^^^
I printed them on my inkjet on to adhesive paper, then applied them to the spinner. finally, I cut a piece of mylar and covered both sides of the spinner.
Nino, where do you source the adhesive paper (Officeworks?), and any particular type of adhesive paper to use? As Wotto has very kindly produced the artwork for the Surf Champ spinner I will soon be completing, and as I have never printed to adhesive paper before, I want to ensure I finish this right. I have an inkjet printer at home (HP), but have access to a laser printer at work (more tempted to use this one). Then of course to be covered with mylar.
I simply use White Inkjet Labels - Avery J8167. It is one big label - 25 sheets per pack. I only have an inkjet printer. I simply print the label and stick it (self adhesive) on the blank spinner. I then cover both sides with mylar. Works a treat - BUT - I would like to try other methods. Maybe waterslide decals etc ?
I don't think there is a "right way" to do it - I've just done it this way for years.
Looking great Nino ^^^ your spinner decals look the part too!
When i redo spinner art, i print the art onto Clear inkjet label and stick them onto the white repainted spinners (i use Clear label for just about everything, ie spinner art drop target etc). i usually stick them onto the spinner, leaving the decal slightly oversize so as to make it easier to apply (something to hold on to) :D then trim it right up to the edge with a sharp scalpel blade, then mylar over the top. I havent tried waterslide decal on a spinner yet but i may give it a try on one of my future restores.
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Gee she looks nice... real nice.
Big slap on the back Nino... these last 2 machines youve done have taken you to another level and the results speak for themselves.
That is one tasty playfield!
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well, after seeing that and spending all that time on the playfield, are you gonna give the cabinet a go?
@@* well done so far ^^^
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well, after seeing that and spending all that time on the playfield, are you gonna give the cabinet a go?
@@* well done so far ^^^
aaah yes... where do you stop?? Dont ask me.. i cant tell you thats why i end up doing total PF repaints
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well, after seeing that and spending all that time on the playfield, are you gonna give the cabinet a go?
@@* well done so far ^^^
I did think about it for 5 minutes. Reason I'm not going to repaint the cabinet is because the original art is intact and there's not that much damage or fade. I think it has "character" and I will leave it "as is".
Gee she looks nice... real nice.
Big slap on the back Nino... these last 2 machines youve done have taken you to another level and the results speak for themselves.
That is one tasty playfield!
Cheers mate - thanks for the help with the insert masks and your time answering all my questions regarding the Air Brush etc. Certainly opens MANY new doors for me. Actually, I should thank Timbo as well - but I was going to do that after the game is finished.
But you are right - Playfield restoration is a tedious and time consuming job. There are some aspects that you need to plan - such as the weather (when air brushing), playfield preparation and materials. I think I will invest in a proper Air Brush compressor..
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That looks amazing, fantastic results mate ^^^
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Nino, it would be interesting if you could have a trip in a time machine, transport this restored pin back to 1976, and put it side by side with a Buccaneer fresh out of the Gottlieb factory. Other than the slight cabinet wear, and maybe the PF clear timber fading, you would be hard pressed to tell the difference.
This is one awesome machine - simple in design, and so challening to get the special, but this brings back so many fond memories of when I did play it back in the late 1970's at the local bowling alley.
Already said, but I'll say it again, sensational effort and result!
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When i redo spinner art, i print the art onto Clear inkjet label and stick them onto the white repainted spinners (i use Clear label for just about everything, ie spinner art drop target etc). i usually stick them onto the spinner, leaving the decal slightly oversize so as to make it easier to apply (something to hold on to) :D then trim it right up to the edge with a sharp scalpel blade, then mylar over the top. I havent tried waterslide decal on a spinner yet but i may give it a try on one of my future restores.
I checked out the Avery website, and along with the white labels Nino referred to above (J8167), they also have clear labels (J8567). http://www.averyproducts.com.au/avery/en_au/Products/Labels/Shipping-Labels/Clear-Shipping-Labels-J8567-25-Pack-199.6-x-289.1-mm_936008.htm (http://www.averyproducts.com.au/avery/en_au/Products/Labels/Shipping-Labels/Clear-Shipping-Labels-J8567-25-Pack-199.6-x-289.1-mm_936008.htm).
I suppose the advantage of using the clear label (compared to the white label) is that you would not need to match the colour of the "background" of the printed spinner art to the rest (ie. painted) area of the spinner (its edges). As Buccaneer's artwork background is white, this is pretty straightforward to match and using a white label (eg. the J8167) is fine.
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@@* that is one beautiful old machine congratulations on bringing it back to life
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Finally, this game is completed. There are no NOS scorecards for this game so I used the cards from Peter's site and laminated them. The game plays perfectly and I'm playtesting it in my games room at the moment. I suppose the more pleasing part of this restore is that I learned a bit more about airbrushing and clearcoating. A special thanks to Gavin (Retropin) and Tim (El Timbo) for taking the time to help me out on the airbrushing and clearcoating - thanks guys !
Anyway - Here are the final pictures ;
The restored Apron and the scorecards from Inkochnito's site really places the finishing touch !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20138.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20139.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20140.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20141.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Buccaneer/Buccaneer%20143.JPG)
The game has already found a new home within the Aussie Pinball family ^^^
Hope you enjoyed the journey !
%.%
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I've just read this thread again and just wanted top say how enjoyable it is to follow this. What a remarkable job Nino. The people who buy your restores are truly getting something very special and can be assured that things are done right first time and with passion. Wow - what a beautiful machine.
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Nino,
A very enjoyable thread, especially as it was shared as it happened. Well done, yet another machine brought back to life. Now here's a question for you - how many machines would you estimate you have restored since your first one?
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Nino,
A very enjoyable thread, especially as it was shared as it happened. Well done, yet another machine brought back to life. Now here's a question for you - how many machines would you estimate you have restored since your first one?
I honestly don't remember. Also the line between restoration and reconditioning was very thin years ago. I think my first "restoration" was a GTB "Sky Jump". I still have this machine. That was around 10 - 15 years ago. I don't know anyone was restoring games back then. Dealers we just "shopping" the games - and the standard was horrible. My first memory was standing behind the head of a Bally Bingo, holding the light so my father could see what he was fixing. This was around 1978-79. This was my first introduction to repairing machines - which led to the "addiction" that it is today.
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Watching your dad repair a bingo would have been a very slim line between addiction and nightmares %.%
But no doupt your dad made it look easy &&
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Also the line between restoration and reconditioning was very thin years ago.
I have seen you use both terms - restoration and reconditioning. Where does reconditioning end where restoration continues? I suppose I would have thought the two as interchangeable, but it would seem not so.
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Watching your dad repair a bingo would have been a very slim line between addiction and nightmares %.%
But no doupt your dad made it look easy &&
Dad imported these in the 50's, and knew them like the back of his hand. My uncle also knew these back to front. One of the games he imported is on eBay at the moment.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1958-BALLY-Beach-Time-Bingo-Pinball-HIGHLY-COLLECTABLE-/170692906797?pt=AU_CoinOp&hash=item27be170f2d
This particular game must have been bought off Dad - I know it was one of his as he had the stainless steel door fittings custom made for most of the bingos, and the playfield is not original - it was removed and repainted when the games were deemed illegal in 1987.
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Also the line between restoration and reconditioning was very thin years ago.
I have seen you use both terms - restoration and reconditioning. Where does reconditioning end where restoration continues? I suppose I would have thought the two as interchangeable, but it would seem not so.
Restoration - I mainly use this term for older games that need full rebuilds - or "restoration". DMDs don't usually require the level of detailed restoration, so I consider them "Reconditioned" machines.
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Nice work mate, what do you clean your score reel with, the actual plastic with the numbers? I was unsure if the ink could handle cleaning !@#
i use tonizone furniture polish it contains lemon oil and bees wax i put small amount on soft clean cloth and wipe softly and keep cloth clean and use more polish it wont harm the ink but do not try window cleaner!