The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Retropin on March 27, 2009, 11:41:33 PM
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This is Nino's Playboy PF being restored and showcased at Expo this year. When i got it - the PF was badly warped from top to bottom. Its taken quite a few weeks to flatten her off - obviously, this was best done before the restore rather than after. This has delayed the start of this for me and so now im up against the clock to finish it off before Expo...is OK - i do have enough time.
At first glance the PF doesnt look that bad - usual wear areas, but the high detail areas are complete
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/playboypfbefore1.jpg)
Factory issue on these and most PF's has heavy duty Mylar rings around the bumpers. These have to come off... i absolutely hate doing this bit, i have never yet had these come off without taking at least some of the artwork off with them. This PF is no different - a heat gun is used to soften the glue, but it doesnt stop the artwork from coming up with them
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/PLyboyPFrestore2.jpg)
Now this is a real issue for me and has made my job that much harder...you can see here just how much artwork came up with the rings
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/PLyboyPFrestore3.jpg)
Only way to replace this is freehand - it will be the very last thing i do before CCing the whole thing...if none of you have heard me say it before im saying it now - I HATE MYLAR!!!!!!!
Ok, first thing to do is give the whole PF a rub back - this is needed to give a rough surface so any paint will stick properly. It also expands any areas of wear and so makes what looked like a simple repair seem much bigger.
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/PLyboyPFrestore1.jpg)
Once all the dust is removed, the whole pF is covered with clear vinyl and areas of wear cut out with a scalpel. This gives me a nice template to work with and prevents the primer from getting on non wear areas. Each cut out is sprayed with primer
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/PLyboyPFrestore5.jpg)
I actually use a watered down primer for this - i want it to soak into the PF a bit and not just sit on the top surface. I cant help but think that maybe if this had been done at factory then maybe less artwork would be lost when the Mylar rings are removed.
Once sprayed - the vinyl can be removed, some small areas of wear are left - these can be done by hand, its easier than cutting out small areas.
So now the PF is primed and ready to be restored - each stage is given 24hrs to completely settle and dry.
Heres some pics
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/PLyboyPFrestore11.jpg)]
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/PLyboyPFrestore10.jpg)
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/PLyboyPFrestore8.jpg)
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/PLyboyPFrestore9.jpg)
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/PLyboyPFrestore.jpg)
There are a few areas on this PF that are of real concern - the pops are a major headache, plus anywhere there is missing lettering or numbers.
Next update coming soon!! - It has to - ive a deadline im working to!!!!!!
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Well Gav - It looks 100 X better than it did before you started !
Bit of background on this playfield and a sobering reminder - I used ever precaution possible to remove the mylar from this playfield, and prior to doing so, the playfield was in good condition. The mylar was worn and a little "hazed", but the artwork was intact. I took the plunge by testing an area and it was successful. I made a couple of mistakes by RUSHING the remainder of the removal and then I simply wanted to get it "over and done with'. As you can see - I've paid the price - and know you know WHY I always state that each playfield should be assessed prior to mylar removal.
Thankfully, Gavin has the skills and his work is absolutely brilliant in restoring playfields - So I consider myself very fortunate.
sorry for the loose insets mate - just add that to the tab !
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Gavin - have you tried the freeze spray method on the bumper rings? Often it does the trick and they 'crack' off leaving the glue and all artwork on the playfield where you want it.
cheers
Ian
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Ive actually got freeze spray here too.
Ive never had any trouble removing Mylar from a whole PF - its just the rings that always stuffs up on me - this one really peeled off badly. Oddly enough - its only really bally and Stern games that ive had bad results with.
Next time i remove the rings ill do both methods - heat and freeze. Would make for an interesting comparison
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Oddly enough - its only really bally and Stern games that ive had bad results with.
Same here. i own three Stern machines and one Bally, they are definitely the worst ones for lifting paint on the playfields when removing mylar.
The paint/ink preparation, especially on the old Stern playfields for the artwork must've been pretty bad i reckon. Also they're bad for lifting plywood up with the mylar too... this happened on my Dracula.
Gottlieb playfields seem much better for paint adhesion, i havent had many probs with them removing mylar.
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Oh yes I like this *%*
Oh yes I like this very very much *%* *%*
Now hurry up and finish Nino's so I can send mine to you ya bastard :lol
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Oh yes I like this *%*
Oh yes I like this very very much *%* *%*
Now hurry up and finish Nino's so I can send mine to you ya bastard :lol
LOL!!! Im flipping from the bank a ball PF and the Playboy Pf - working on 2 at the same time. Ones nearly finished and the other just starting - once Expo is out of the way, i can take on more work.
For those members who have been emailing me about work - apologies...i dont intentionally mean to not reply...just under the pump a bit here.. i tell myself, ill reply later and then something else crops up and so yada yada etc.
But in all honesty.. i will not be doing anymore work til after Expo...so in other words - i cant start till late May. If thats OK - then by all means email me and we will sort out getting stuff to me for a late May start.
............ Ahhhh is all good - having nothing to do is not a phrase in my vocabulary!@!!!
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OK - book mine in for late May if that's OK?
Since the post this morning have just returned from Sydney with my new project, still in the back of the dual cab. Will post pix later on during the weekend ^^^
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Are several coats of primer used to raise the level of the missing paint ?
Do you leave the mask intact to paint the colours, or remove it to level the playfield ?
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Good work gavin #*#
How many hours has it taken to get the playfield to this stage?? keep up the good work, looking forward to seeing the finished product.
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Has only taken a couple of hours so far - this is the easy bit - the real work comes next
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Ill be watching this thread with great interest. Keep up the good work
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Has only taken a couple of hours so far - this is the easy bit - the real work comes next
I'm very interested in watching your work here Gav...Lots great thus far.
Is this the type of repair where you spray a colour, clear the playfield, sand, next colour etc.....??
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So have you finished Nino's yet? Come on you should know I'm impatient *%*
Can I send my playfied up tomorrow #@#
See you at Expo mate, will send after that ^^^
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Has only taken a couple of hours so far - this is the easy bit - the real work comes next
I'm very interested in watching your work here Gav...Lots great thus far.
Is this the type of repair where you spray a colour, clear the playfield, sand, next colour etc.....??
Gee - thats a long winded way to go about it - what if you sand too far?? You lose your previous work.
From this stage the PF will be completely touched up and then once finished CC'd to seal.
Nino - i only do one prime, i find its best to use the actual colour to bring the surface level. This is nigh on completely impossible to do of course - there will always be slight variations - even on an original PF there are variations in the levels of paint. So long as they are slight the CC will bring it to a final level surface. Once you start spraying a complete PF you can give particular areas more attention than others - the whole thing then levels itself off
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More work completed tonight - the white which is the main block colour on this PF is the first to get restored. Ive actually done this twice - i wasnt happy with the first application so off it came and i started again. Now remember , this is a restore - not taking back to factory issue as the bank A ball PF is. because of this, im matching OFF colours. Whites etc will have all yellowed over the years and so this yellowed white is what needs to be replicated.
Basically, the whole PF is covered with clear vinyl and the template cut by hand - takes some time and its inportant to cut just inside any lines to prevent a massive amount of work later replacing all the black lines.
Once template is cut, it can be airbrushed
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/playboypfrestore2.jpg)
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/playboypfrestore21.jpg)
drying time depends on the mix of thinner to paint - I use a mix of turps and thinners to thin. Once its tacky the template can be removed
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/playboypfrestore24.jpg)
hey presto!!! Template is removed and NO bleed!
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/playboypfrestore26.jpg)
I didnt completely repaint all the white - ive left a lot of the old in place still and so colour match is imperative..
on this pic the two colours meet
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/playboypfrestore29.jpg)
cant see it?? Take a closer look
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/playboypfrestore210.jpg)
If you look on the right hand side on the 2nd line up there is a straight edge here between the two different paints - a very slight misregistration can be seen also - all this will be buffed out.
Ok - so white is now done - Blue will be next.
heres an overall pic
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/playboypfrestore211.jpg)
More soon!!!!!
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Nice work mate !
So white is done slightly yellowed - does that present a problem with the touch up to other colors ? I assume that you won't be doing the blue areas entirely - just the areas that need to be touched up ?
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It would present a problem if i had just done the white as white because it would stand out like a sore thumb. What im doing here is matching colour and tone - you can apply any colour you want to the PF but if the tone is wrong then it glares at you and leaps out to the eye.
If i was using standard colours then everything would be mixed with a touch of yellow ochre... if you are matching existing paints on a PF then yellow ochre is your best friend... you will not match unless you add this to the pallette, sometimes you only need a tiny amount - it just takes the glare off the new paint.
remember these PF's had a linseed finish put on them which yellows over time - you cannot get this finish off without removing most if not all the artwork. So unless you are completely repainting it ( massive amount of work) you need to fake the yellowing and yellow ochre is the go.
With Pantone inks this is achieved with yellow and a tiny touch of standard red.
Remember - there is no such colour as white on any pinball, itll either be a very pale yellow/orange or pale blue etc
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Gee that looks neat. You should be happy as a pig in shit and I'm sure Nino is happy
Keep the updates coming mate - inspirational stuff.
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Gee that looks neat. You should be happy as a pig in shit and I'm sure Nino is happy
Keep the updates coming mate - inspirational stuff.
You bet I'm happy !
I'm also very fortunate to have this done NOW, as I hear there is quite a "line" of playfields to be done !
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So has this been in the Que Nino or did you pull a few strings lol %$%
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So has this been in the Que Nino or did you pull a few strings lol %$%
More strings than the Symphony Orchestra &&
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Nice use of power Ninoimagine what you could do if you were a politician? &&
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STAGE 3...
We can really start to see some progress now - with some of the blue added its all starting to come together. Ive had to do the blue in 2 stages starting with the top. I airbrushed this part..once again - same technique with the clear templates. The colour match i got im really pleased with, its such a good match. But with the blue now in place it looks so much better
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/Playboypf31.jpg)
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/Playboypf36.jpg)
The rest of the PF i decided to do by brush - its a process of slowly building up the colour with a thin paint - i want it to soak in and really grip the PF, but starting with the side
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/Playboypf32.jpg)
Ive taken 2 pics of each part - one with the flash and one without. i find that with the flash any colour difference stands out better, but without is what the eye will see.
heres with the flash
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/Playboypf35.jpg)
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/Playboypf33.jpg)
And so through the PF we go with a sable brush
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/Playboypf38.jpg)
Now heres the reason why this is done in 2 parts - the blue at the bottom of the PF does not match the blue at the top - they are two different shades and so ill complete to where i can with the paint ive mixed and then "corrupt" it to match the colour at the bottom. This is a common problem and its really due to the linseed finish being more yellowed by the apron, but you can see here that the colours dont blend well
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/playboy3oddpaint.jpg)
Once again - with flash
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/Playboypf39.jpg)
Its not a big issue with a Playboy PF due to the design - i can pretty much completely restore 90% of the PF and then do the bottom last.
Its only the 3rd day of progress ( im ignoring the day i wiped all my work!) but ive broken the back of this PF and so far, im really pleased with the results
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Great work Gavin, coming up really nice.
Really need to bring the Ali playfield up with me to Queensland next week and place it near the front of the queue :lol
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That is coming together nicely, Gavin. Very pleased with the results so far.
$#$