The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Strangeways on October 08, 2009, 11:56:16 PM
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As promised - Here is the first of a container full of games that I bought that will be reconditioned or restored. I'm starting on an Addams Family.
Objective
This machine is not in need of a restoration - and the game actually works, and is more of an "as is" and working machine. However, I'm going to recondition the machine to a point where it will be cosmetically and functionally better than most of the machines that change hands. It won't be "Collector Quality". It will however, be at the standard that I will be happy to put my name against. Most of all - I want to ENJOY the process.
Condition
Playfield - 8/10 - Has a few wear spots - Up near THING outhole and just in front of the attic. The mansion area is REALLY GOOD. Overall - I'm happy, and it should scrub up well ! The ramp has a crack it - just around the usual area !
Cabinet - 8/10 - Scruff marks and a couple of dints. But will scrub up better. Door is a bit of a disaster !
Electronics - 9/10 - WOW - No GI connector issues - in fact, it is really tidy.
Let's Begin
Here are some pictures of the machine - "warts and all" - it actually works 100%. A couple of lamps out and rubbers are a poor..
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF001.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF004.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF005.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF006.jpg)
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Great starting point - if it was me I would probably be playing it for a year or two before doing anything with it.
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Looks great Nino. That will clean up like new.
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Great starting point - if it was me I would probably be playing it for a year or two before doing anything with it.
Zac and I played it for almost two weeks before I decided to start it.
Here's the plan for this machine;
New Door
New Ramp
New Bookcase base and body
Cliffy for the chair hole
Rubber Kit
All Globes
Flipper Kits
The boards will be inspected and upgrades will be done where necessary.
Teardown to commence shortly !
Orders have been made and received from our Sponsors, so things should move rapidly
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Looks like it is in very nice condition Nino, can you get new RH slings for TAF?
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Isn't it great that we can now afford to put a new door on every machine!
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The Teardown
As with all restorations, reconditioning or just repairs - it is vitally important that you document the process by taking notes, or pictures. You can refer back to these during the rebuild, and you can also work out why you have so many screws left over ! DMDs sometime look daunting - but if you take your time, and plenty of pictures, then the process of re assembly is so much easier.
Buy a good automatic screwdriver and socket set - it will save you HEAPS of time. I use my 1/4 socket with extension and Ryobi Lithium driver I bought from bunnings for $70 - lasted 2 years and a few pinballs !
"Before" Pictures - Typically - these are pictures I will refer to later on..
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF011.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF012.jpg)
Here's a tip - Wonder why your shopped pinball has dirty rubbers after 10 games ? The subway ramps have not been cleaned !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF016.jpg)
Topside
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF020.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF021.jpg)
After and hour or two..
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF028.jpg)
Everything removed from under the playfield
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF031.jpg)
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Teardown continued ..
Once we have everything removed from the top and bottom, we need to move through each assembly. I usually start with the flipper assemblies. I remove the bushing and give the base a clean. The bushing needs to be inspected for excessive wear, or cracks. I replace them if either problem is encountered. I just soak them in nifti / water and then clean with a toothbrush / scotchbrite. Leave them in the sun or dry them with compressed air. Top LHS assy has been done - others are yet to be done ! No point in installing flipper kits if the rest of the assembly is filthy !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF032.jpg)
Upper Playfield and plastics
A quick clean with Nifti and a rag on the stripped playfield and we have this to look at !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF034.jpg)
Now that looks VERY nice. I was really pleased with the playfield. Not perfect, but really good around the outholes and the mansion is sweet !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF035.jpg)
Plastics are soaked in a bucket of arm water and nifti. Then washed with a toothbrush or small paintbrush. Leave in the sun or dry by hand. Next I will polish with Novus. Notice ALL the hardware is removed - no screws etc !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF036.jpg)
Metal
Metal is washed with Windex - not Nifti. I place the smaller bits into small containers and drop boiling water and Windex. Leave for and hour or two and then place into smaller container - like plastic tea containers. Spray Windex, and shake ! Drop the parts into clear water, then leave in the sun or hand dry - they are ready for the Tumbler ! The ball guides and everything elase are cleaned with Windex and regrained with green scotchbrite. don't waste you time or money on cheap windex - it smears - use the real stuff.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF037.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF038.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF042.jpg)
Tumber
Whats so good about a tumber ?
I have a GRAF tumbler that I swear by. I bought corncob media and I only use Flitz (only from the USA). I've tried everything else, and although Brasso is GREAT - it takes 8 - 12 hours to give the same result as Flitz in 4 hours. The corncob lasts TWICE as long. I cleaned the posts etc for a very good reason - so the tumber POLISHES the parts - No CLEAN them ! If you don't clean your metal - the dirt gets picked up by the corncob - and it does not polish as effectively.
So IMPORTANT notes for tumbling ;
CLEAN anything you want to polish FIRST - It's a polishing tool - not a cleaning tool !
So what EXACTLY is Flitz ? Here's my tumbler all set up.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF039.jpg)
Here's my cleaned metal - But you think it looks clean - why polish ?
I squeeze out around about two or three rotations of Flitz - looks like this ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF044.jpg)
Switch the tumbler on for 4 hours and find something else to do !
:D
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EXTREMELY TALENTED is all i can think/say.
YOU MUST have the best memory to know where to put all those parts back to.
EXTREMELY TALENTED.
where can i drop off all my pins to ? ^^^
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EXTREMELY TALENTED is all i can think/say.
YOU MUST have the best memory to know where to put all those parts back to.
EXTREMELY TALENTED.
where can i drop off all my pins to ? ^^^
Thanks for the kind words.
I take plenty of photos - sometimes over 100 per machine. I also use a caliper to measure the different posts and take photos of the post and measurement. Often, it comes down to experience. But if you enjoy what you do - then it is not as hard as it looks. Addams Family is an easy pinball to do - just time consuming. But working on pins does not "consume time" - it is more of a way of "passing time" doing something I like !
^^^
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looking good but have you thought about using
one of the playfield rotisseries markc has, makes the job a lot easier
At the end of the day if i work on a playfield in the cab for long hours i end up with neck pain and a headache
the rotisserie prevents this and makes the playfield more accessible
I wouldn't do a playfield restoration with out one great product ^^^
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looking good but have you thought about using
one of the playfield rotisseries markc has, makes the job a lot easier
At the end of the day if i work on a playfield in the cab for long hours i end up with neck pain and a headache
the rotisserie prevents this and makes the playfield more accessible
I wouldn't do a playfield restoration with out one great product ^^^
Yes - I've got two custom made playfield stands and one of Craig's stands. At the moment - I'm pressed for room in the garage until a couple more pins are gone. It is just difficult setting things up for 3 hours then packing away. When I have the rotisserie mounted on my trolley, it makes like so much easier.
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Looks like you won't get much for this one Nino. I notcied broken sling plastics. Offer it to me for just under a K and I'll atke it off your hands %.%
Seriously how far off before you reckon it'll be for sale?
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Looking good Nino. Where abouts in the states do you get Flitz from please?
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Looks like you won't get much for this one Nino. I notcied broken sling plastics. Offer it to me for just under a K and I'll atke it off your hands %.%
Seriously how far off before you reckon it'll be for sale?
I will have to source a set of slings - or make the RHS myself. I think it will be finished in a week or two. I still have to do the boards etc..
Looking good Nino. Where abouts in the states do you get Flitz from please?
I bought it from Marcospec in my last order. I've been haggling Mark and Greg to get it in as part of their supplies as it is a fantastic product. I just noticed it is no longer on Marco's site ?
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Looks like you won't get much for this one Nino. I notcied broken sling plastics. Offer it to me for just under a K and I'll atke it off your hands %.%
Seriously how far off before you reckon it'll be for sale?
I will have to source a set of slings - or make the RHS myself. I think it will be finished in a week or two. I still have to do the boards etc..
Looking good Nino. Where abouts in the states do you get Flitz from please?
I bought it from Marcospec in my last order. I've been haggling Mark and Greg to get it in as part of their supplies as it is a fantastic product. I just noticed it is no longer on Marco's site ?
Mark probably bought the company to bring to australia %.%
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I get my Flitz here:
http://pinrestore.com/Supplies.html
Pay attention when you're buying it to make sure you're calculating price per oz - there are at least 2 sizes, 7.6 and 4 oz, or something close to 4 oz. I've found it a little cheaper online, but every time I get a source, the price gets raised. Not sure I understand why.
Interesting on the use of windex - that's something I have to try. Curious on how much of a difference the boiling water makes.
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Can't wait for the finished product. I'm really toying with the thought of a new machine. Been looking for about 3 weeks now.
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I get my Flitz here:
http://pinrestore.com/Supplies.html
Pay attention when you're buying it to make sure you're calculating price per oz - there are at least 2 sizes, 7.6 and 4 oz, or something close to 4 oz. I've found it a little cheaper online, but every time I get a source, the price gets raised. Not sure I understand why.
Interesting on the use of windex - that's something I have to try. Curious on how much of a difference the boiling water makes.
Thanks for that info, John - I might have to order more and stock up on Flitz !
The boiling water / Windex trick with METAL parts only works a treat. I NEVER wash plastics etc using the described method. Basically - I stumbled across the method when I was doing a filthy pin some time ago. It had the "white mist" of corrosion and some of bolts etc were rusted. I simply emptied the hardware into a bucket, sprayed windex and poured boiling water on it and left it over night. The next day, the water looked more like a cup of Tea with no milk ! It was a copper color. I dried them and then had to soak them in Ranex to remove the rust. Then they went into the tumbler.
The "boiling water and windex" method is one I use all the time now on all hardware to remove all traces of dirt and grime before placing everything into the tumbler.
Windex does not leave smear marks on metal post re graining.
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Post Tumbling
The best part about tumbling is that all the hard work is done for you. Everything you throw in, comes out looking almost new. Here some of the hardware removed from the tumbler ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF051.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF052.jpg)
Yes - I tumble plungers. They are metal, and not only will they look good, but less friction (I think) !
Reassembly
This is the BEST part of any restoration - putting it all back together like a Jigsaw puzzle. I'm VERY pleased with the playfield. I have is a quick wax and polish with Meguiars and it buffed up very nice.
I removed the old target backings, as they were falling apart. I installed new ones. The Blue rectangular target is nearly always smashed to bits, so I replaced it withe the re enforced target. All globe sockets were cleaned, and new globes installed. One bumper globe socket was broken, so I replaced it. Posts and ball guides are installed as is the ball trough.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF053.jpg)
As I reinstall the hardware - I just took some pictures - Rubber Kit and Cliffy installed. All plastics posts were lightly cleaned with Novus 2 and I installed two purple posts next to the flipper as that's the original posts - not the transparent. Plastics were cleaned with Novus 2. All the "dress" screws were buffed.. Here's some pictures right up until this evening ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF054.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF055.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF056.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF057.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF058.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF059.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF060.jpg)
Tomorrow I should finish most of the playfield :D
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Looking like new Nino ^^^
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Looks amazing as always Nino...
1 down...49 to go?!
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Great job Nino, but are you sure we're looking at the same playfield. After 50 pinballs you might be able to call yourself an expert. What do ya reckon???
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Looking like new Nino ^^^
Having a great time rebuilding this machine - I enjoy working on TAF !
Looks amazing as always Nino...
1 down...49 to go?!
Yep - and I get excited just thinking about it - But then again - Do I do another DMD or start an SS or EM ? I'm consulting my 5 year old, but he keeps changing his mind.
Great job Nino, but are you sure we're looking at the same playfield. After 50 pinballs you might be able to call yourself an expert. What do ya reckon???
"50 pins" ? Who's counting ? I have NO CLUE how many I've done over time - more than 50 - But I never seem to lose the enthusiasm. Definite addiction.
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Hmm, well I would expect the Addams will go to a proud new owner soonish (unless your son puts his foot down!)....I reckon an SS would be good!...Perhaps setup a vote thread?
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Looks great so far mate ^^^
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Progress over the last two nights has been under the playfield ;
All the moving parts such as kickers etc are removed, cleaned, their coil sleeve replaced and then re assembled. Takes time, but it will make the game play like new again. Check the coils to see if the lugs or wires are loose etc
Flipper kits are installed - thats all four flippers. I clean the baseplates etc - as described earlier so you can examine the bushings.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF061.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF062.jpg)
Bookcase Rebuild
First time I've ever seen this in an Addams Family. The bookcase base is usually cracked. Not this one - but the underside is. So the assembly has to be rebuilt with new parts. First the bracket and motor are cleaned of all the great and other rubbish used to keep the parts moving !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF063.jpg)
Here's the broken base ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF064.jpg)
Here's the new base and "bookend" %.%
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF066.jpg)
You need to remove the opto board. Simply label each wire 1 -5, unsolder and remove the loom. Transfer to the new one, and solder back in. Too easy !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF067.jpg)
Then just reassemble the motor and Bracket on to the base. Install the other bits and you are done. There is an adhesive strip which is really hard to source. I cleaned mine - and then reversed it - applying double sided tape as a test.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF068.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF069.jpg)
Just need to reinstall into the machine.
Upper Playfield Progress
Just fitted the plastics, flippers etc. Nothing too flash but it looks good !!
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF070.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF071.jpg)
:D :D
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sure is in very nice original condition
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Looking super Nino!
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Ramp Replacement
I could have repaired the old ramp, but I thought I'd go "all the way" with this TAF - It has just "grown on me" nad I want it to be the best it can be. I'm not really a fan of the "smoked look" - so I bought a new clear ramp - and it should look awesome on this playfield !
So here's a "ramp replacement" update / procedure. Here are the old and the new ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF072.jpg)
The new "bare" ramp ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF074.jpg)
Now previously, I removed all the ramp protectors etc off the old ramp and washed, tumbled the hardware and regrained the ramp protectors. I ended up polishing the screws on the buffing wheel. All this was done previously. I had to install the new decals and remove the old switch assemblies off the old ramp and clean them with a toothbrush and windex. A scotchbrite and windex was used to regrain the brackets. The wiring loom was removed and cleaned.
Here's a picture of the new ramp so far ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF075.jpg)
I soldered in the wiring loom and fixed to the ramp using cable ties. Added more of the hardware and the finished ramp looks like this ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF076.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF077.jpg)
Took me around 2 hours. Now to install !
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Making me want an Addams now Nino! Great work as usual.
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Making me want an Addams now Nino! Great work as usual.
I cannot wait to play this Addams, Nick. My only complaint would be slight magnet damage - very thin lines on the RHS.
The scoops and wireform are currently with Slammer (Angelo) for repair. The assemblies need to be re-welded. Ramp goes in tonight and I'll test the machine before moving on to the boards.
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That clear ramp looks gorgeous. I wanted one for my TAF, but the original cleaned up so nicely, I decided to use it for awhile.
(http://gallery.myhomegameroom.com/albums/taf_restored/TAFbegins_013.sized.jpg)
I told myself when I got a repro PF, I'd get a clear ramp. No repro PF yet, so no clear ramp. When I run a couple games to Expo in Chicago on Saturday, perhaps I'll grab a clear ramp :)
You sure do like your windex, I'm gonna grab a bottle this weekend while shopping and see what I can use it for! I tumbled some stuff earlier, but it was just a handful of pieces to finish a game out, so I didn't try the boil thing yet.
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That clear ramp looks gorgeous. I wanted one for my TAF, but the original cleaned up so nicely, I decided to use it for awhile.
(http://gallery.myhomegameroom.com/albums/taf_restored/TAFbegins_013.sized.jpg)
I told myself when I got a repro PF, I'd get a clear ramp. No repro PF yet, so no clear ramp. When I run a couple games to Expo in Chicago on Saturday, perhaps I'll grab a clear ramp :)
You sure do like your windex, I'm gonna grab a bottle this weekend while shopping and see what I can use it for! I tumbled some stuff earlier, but it was just a handful of pieces to finish a game out, so I didn't try the boil thing yet.
John - make sure it is the "real" Windex - not the cheap crap. I tried the cheap stuff and it left streaks on the ball guides !
No comparison - The clear ramp is so much better than the smoked - I installed a smoked ramp once - but now I have a clear ramp - I'll stick with that !
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Moving along nicely. Just a bit of "mucking around" tonight. I really wanted to get the ramp installed and the new door. Nothing too difficult !
Just about everything is done on the underside of the playfield. All the moving parts have been stripped cleaned etc - all coin sleeves replaced. Plastic ramp is cleaned - ever wonder why your white rubbers get dirty after a couple of games ? The clear ramp and "Thing's Box" are always full of dirt.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF080.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF081.jpg)
The Ramp installation !
Took 5 minutes - and the game simply shines now - Looks a hell of a lot better than the standard ramp.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF082.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF083.jpg)
Front Door
Not sure what all the fuss is about - Took 5 minutes to install this door - fit straight into this machine - hardest part was unscrewing the screw and strapping the groundwire !@#
Too easy - and it looks HEAPS better than the old one !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF084.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF085.jpg)
Tomorrow I'll work on the cabinet and start the boards as my BRs just arrived today &&
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Nice looking TAF Nino !!
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Very very clean. Looking forward to the photos of the board work too.
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Looking good Nino you really do a fantastic job. Considering this game isnt a keeper i cant wait to see what you do to your Fathom and the other games for your collection ^^^
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Very very clean. Looking forward to the photos of the board work too.
Starting the boards at some stage this weekend, Marty
Looking good Nino you really do a fantastic job. Considering this game isnt a keeper i cant wait to see what you do to your Fathom and the other games for your collection ^^^
Daniel - All the machines - from Star Pool to KISS will be done to my standards. It is not work for me - I just enjoy myself as I move through the titles. Same thing as you do !
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Great job Nino ^^^
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Did some more work on the weekend. I cleaned the legs with Windex and "000" steelwool. It cleaned up the little specs of rust that appeared all over the legs - like pimples ! I then used Brasso to polish. Really good results. I then installed leg protectors and new bolts. In the pic below, The leg on the left is cleaned, the other is not.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF086.jpg)
The backlight board was filthy. I dampened rag with Nifti took care of that !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF087.jpg)
Cleaning the Translite
Now this is the method I use to clean translites - and a word of caution - NEVER EVER - Spray any clearer directly on a translite. NEVER EVER. What I do is simply and takes no longer that 10 minutes.
Here is the translite - Front and rear ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF090.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF091.jpg)
Remove the trim. Setup an flat area with a towel or something similar. Clean the glass with windex and a rag. Polish with a towel. Put it aside.
Clean the trim with Nifti. After cleaning, give it a nice finish with novus 2 and a clean rag. Put it aside.
Grab a CLEAN rag and submerge it in a bucket of clean water. Wring the rag and then gently wash the rear (white area) of the translite. It should remove only a small amount of filth. This is fine. Spray the water saturated rag with Windex two or three times. Disperse the windex by rubbing the rag onto itself. Now GENTLY apply the rag to the wet translite - You should get almost ALL the filth lifting. Do not leave the rag in one place - keep it moving and rinse it every minute or so.. Keep applying the Windex to the rag. OBSERVE that you are not lifting any white backing when rinsing - this would indicate that you have used too much windex, or you are cleaning the translite too aggressively. Keep rising with water. When done - rinse with clean water - don't use the water you used to rinse the rag !
Do the same for the front of the translite - except you won't need to observe the removal of the backing obviously !
When both sides are done - rinse with water and dry GENTLY with a towel.
Re assemble the glass and trim. It should look like this ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF092.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF093.jpg)
Does not take long at all !
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WPC Driver Board Upgrades
These are mandatory upgrades that SHOULD be done to any WPC machines. It is a relatively simple job if you have the correct tools. I do this to EVERY machine that needs to be worked on. Why do we need to do this upgrade ? Mainly because of the infamous "reset" on WPC machines - more to do with the combination of BR2 and C5 - the +5V. If this voltage fluctuates, so does the reliability of the game. Most of this procedure is covered in Clay's guides, but with my "guide" I have provided progress pictures. I replace all the Bridge Rectifiers and Capacitors.
The parts you need are simply ;
Bridge Rectifier - 400V 35A Wire legs, or 600V 35A Wire Legs
Capacitor - 15,000 mfd 25 Volt
Both are available from our Sponsors.
Before we start
Removing the Driver board involves one key process - LABEL all connectors to the board - Either place a tag on the cable, or write directly on the connector. This will make it a lot easier to install when done ! Take note of the connectors - do any of them look burnt or hacked ? Check the bottom left hand corner - J120 and J121 - These are GI connectors and are almost ALWAYS toasted. This particular board is in excellent condition, so this is what you want to see ! The reason you need to take note is because you will have to replace the connectors, and it is easy to do that while the board is out to do the upgrades.
Here's the GI connectors - Not a good example of what to look for as this board is very good !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF089.jpg)
This is the Driver board once removed from the game !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF095.jpg)
The main culprits - BR1, BR2, BR3, BR4, C11 and C5.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF097.jpg)
BR5 and C30
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF098.jpg)
These 5 capacitors and 5 Bridge Rectifiers will be removed and replaced. I USED to use a standard soldering station and solder "sucker" - But this time around, I will be using my Desoldering station.
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Great work Nino I can't wait for each installment @@* She's going to end up an awesome looking machine. I did the same cleaning process on my Twister Translite and I couldn't believe the muck that came off.
Peter
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About how much water are you using, and how much windex to water?
Just spraying the stuff down lightly, soaking it, or ?
I'm going to get a jug of windex tomorrow at the warehouse club, and need a big ole pot for the water, just gotta get one big enough :)
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About how much water are you using, and how much windex to water?
Just spraying the stuff down lightly, soaking it, or ?
I'm going to get a jug of windex tomorrow at the warehouse club, and need a big ole pot for the water, just gotta get one big enough :)
I'm not diluting the Windex in the water, John. What I do is completely submerge the rag in the clean water, then squeeze the water out of the rag so that it is damp. I then spray the windex onto the dampened rag - maybe 2-3 squirts. Then apply the rag to the translite and observe that there is no white backing being removed. sometimes, it cannot be helped - you just have to be observant. The translite is never dipped into the bucket at any stage. It is always on a flat surface with a towel under it.
The dampened rag and a couple of sprays is all you really need. You may have to repeat a couple of times.
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Great posts. Keep them coming I'm learning heaps. ^^^
PS: That's one nice TAF
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So this is where I get to test out my Aoyue 701. Removing the Caps and Bridge rectifiers is always a bit of a challenge, as the legs on the Caps are not the expected wire legs, they are more like lugs and they often remove the collar that is the conductor between one side of the board with the other. Sometimes, after completing these upgrades, some voltages may not be present. The Marvin's guide adds jumpers for this very reason, and I've always used them in the past.
I've preheated my desoldering gun, and I've used a little solder for the tip of the gun. The BRs were removed in around a minute per BR ! VERY easy - "stuff all" effort. They simply "fell off" the board once I have done the last of the four legs ! The Caps could not be removed with the desoldering gun - there needs to be a continuous heat applied to each leg. So I used the solder pencil. I placed a fresh "Ball" of solder on each leg and heated one leg up, then gently pulled the leg a little - moved to the opposite leg and did the same. so effectively, I heated up each leg and SLOWLY extracted the capacitor. Took time - but as I removed each Cap, I checked for the copper "collar" - none present - so I dropped a bit of solder on the pads of each removed Cap and used the desoldering gun to "clean up" the hole. This technique worked well - and I had all 5 caps and BRs out in around 15 minutes.
The old ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF099.jpg)
The new ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF100.jpg)
Here's some pictures of the board with the Caps and BRs removed. Very clean job (this time)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF101.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF102.jpg)
To install the new parts - start with the BRs. Make sure they are installed correctly. Now the really good thing about using a Desoldering Gun, is that the solder pads are clean and the holes have no solder - so when you resolder, the solder can pass through the hole and flow through the collar to the other side of the board. Leave plenty of room in between the BR and the board. Just in case when you solder - the solder does not make a good connection on BOTH SIDES of the board - this is important - especially if the collar was damaged (or any tracks), when the old parts were removed. Now check that the solder is on both sides of the board. If now - now is the time to use the space between the board and the BR to drop some solder on the parts side.
Now install the Caps - make sure they are pushed in all the way.
Should look something like this
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF103.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF104.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF105.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF106.jpg)
Jumpers - I didn't really need them, but I've install some anyway on the main culprits. I mark them out with a permanent marker before taking the parts out. The aim is to ensure that the tracks on the parts side of the board are not severed IF the collars were damaged during removal. So what you do is check the tracks on the parts side while the caps and BRs are removed, and draw a line from the Caps two solder pads to their next component on the solder side. This is where the jumpers will be installed. They are usually connected to the corresponding BR.
Here's an example
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF107.jpg)
Hard to explain, but it is always advantageous to install the jumpers.
Now that I've used the Desoldering Station for this task - I'll NEVER go back ! While the board is out - Check the GI connectors J120 and J121. Reflow the solder - regardless of whether they look "good" !
:D
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Was questioning regarding the boiling water on the metal parts, not the translite
On translites, I use Crazy Clean, a cleaner I use on cabinets as well and get from pinrestore.com - works great for me.
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Was questioning regarding the boiling water on the metal parts, not the translite
On translites, I use Crazy Clean, a cleaner I use on cabinets as well and get from pinrestore.com - works great for me.
Sorry John, your response was straight after the translite comments so I assumed ! I also missed the word "boiling" -I don't think that would work well with a translite !
For the screws and fittings and smaller parts - I use an old Ice Cream container. Throw all the screws etc in the empty container and then 4 - 5 sprays of Windex. Pour the boiling water in and let it sit for an hour or two. I the container is too thin, just place it inside another container. Boiling water may melt the container if it is too thin. If the parts are REALLY filthy - leave them overnight.
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I will try it tomorrow :) I bought a windex 'kit' at the warehouse club today, for under $10, I got a spray bottle of Windex and a gallon sized refill :) I can clean a lot of parts with that I bet!
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Awesome stuff once again Nino. Don't know where you get the time and patience to do what you do but I am sure plenty of us are learning heaps and are in awe of your restos.
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Awesome stuff once again Nino. Don't know where you get the time and patience to do what you do but I am sure plenty of us are learning heaps and are in awe of your restos.
I "find" the time - and to be honest, apart from daily responsibilities etc and playing with my kids - I have no other "outlets". I honesty have no interests outside of Pinball other that AFL ! "Patience" - I just enjoy what I do - so I never "run out of patience".
Update
All the boards have been removed and checked for problems. Headers have been resoldered. The CPU board needed the jumpers set for "America2", so that if factory defaults is chosen, the machine will be in a default "English" language.
I needed the two scoops (Swamp and Chair) rewelded and a section of the main metal guide from the ramp rewelded. Special thanks to Angelo (Slammer) for doing this for me ^^^. Turned out VERY good and they are already installed in the machine. Here's a picture ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF111.jpg)
Now I'm at the stage where I need to test the machine and this is where I hope to "iron out" any issues. I've played around 20 games and it plays very well so far. I still need to source a RHS sling and I'll be happy ! Hopefully one of the Sponsors will have one for me.
Sneak pictures as of tonight
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF112.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF113.jpg)
Nearly done..
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hey, whats the machine selling at ? hint hint.
sure looks nice.excellent work.
Again, very talented.not many people can do what u do. ^^^ ^^^ ^^^
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Great to see that they made it to you all in one piece via the post!
The repairs were a piece of cake when you have thew right tools.
It was a pleasure to repair these for you Nino, after the work you did on the Drop a Card for me.
Cheers Angelo
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Very nice nino, was great reading all the work you did.
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Came out very nice. I'm impressed with the scoop repair, most of the ones I've seen repaired had a fair amount of burn on the stainless and the welds themselves didn't look very clean!
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And I don't want to 'postwhore' your thread, but I was debating something today as I was making the kids lunch, can't wait to give it a try.
Regarding precleaning parts before tumbling. I'm curious if it's the windex, the heat, or the combination of both that help out here.
One tool in my toolbox that I use sometimes is an ultrasonic cleaner. I typically use the ultrasonic to clean the little black #555 lamp holders - the ones that screw into the lamp PCBs - with 91% rubbing alcohol.
It stays pretty clean after you just clean 1 'batch' in it
(http://gallery.myhomegameroom.com/albums/bsd_restore/DSCN0774.sized.jpg)
But after a bunch, it starts to get really dirty and awful looking, like you mentioned the 'coppery' or 'tea' colored..
(http://gallery.myhomegameroom.com/albums/t2_sample_misc/114_G_001.sized.jpg)
The ultrasonic is nice, but frankly, I've not found that it has 'paid for itself' at all, the investment is not cheap, and I've not found a lot of applications where it does a great job. I know several other US collectors who swear by them, though, and have told me you just have to keep trying different cleaners til you get the results you like.
The ultrasonic doesn't get boiling hot, but it does get too warm to fish parts out of if you leave it on long enough - and some of the higher end ones do have heaters built in. Mine just heats itself up due to the action of running I guess.
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John - Your comments are more than welcome ^^^
I had a need to clean some filthy, corroded and rusted playfield hardware on a system1 machine a while ago. I found that soaking in Nifti was ok, but windex worked better. I added the boiling water and windex, thinking the heat would separate the dirt and help the windex lift the dirt etc. It worked really well. I tool it a step further by using old plastic containers with covers (just supermarket coffee containers). What I did was grab a 1/4 of a cup of hardware (screws etc), drop them into the container, spray windex into the container and shake for a minute. I then added 1/2 cup of boiling water and shook the container for a minute - much the same as shaking a spray can. I then emptied the hardware into a clean bowl of water and I was amazed. What really surprised me was the amount of FILTH left behind in the container. I think the heat AND windex (as the cleaner) do the job well.
From that day on - I just apply this simply method to all hardware prior to dropping into the tumbler. What I will do - Next machine I recondition - I will document the process. Just years of "trial and error" - and it works for me - and the "beauty" of it is - anyone can do it !
Ultrasonic cleaner - I've not used this method yet - but I'm happy to compare results. The problem with ultrasonic cleaning is the expense of the cleaner and the relatively small "bins" they have. Only a small amount of hardware can be done at once.
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I may try to do some experimenting tomorrow. I have cashboxes full of parts from parted out games through the years - one full of metal posts, one full of screws, one full of nuts, etc. So I've got plenty to play with and do some experimenting.
I keep thinking I'll have time at night, then something more important (bah!) pops up that the wife or kids need, etc.
How do you dry before tumbling? Just towel dry? Blow the parts out? Or just drain them and toss them in the tumbler?
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I may try to do some experimenting tomorrow. I have cashboxes full of parts from parted out games through the years - one full of metal posts, one full of screws, one full of nuts, etc. So I've got plenty to play with and do some experimenting.
I keep thinking I'll have time at night, then something more important (bah!) pops up that the wife or kids need, etc.
How do you dry before tumbling? Just towel dry? Blow the parts out? Or just drain them and toss them in the tumbler?
I drop them on a towel, and then put them out in the sun for 5 minutes ! If I need to dry at night - I use the compressor ! Then straight into the tumbler.
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Almost Done !
The game plays VERY WELL with no errors, but I plan on playing a few more games to ensure everything is 100%. So for now, it is simply being tested. I have to add a few more improvements, and what I will do ASAP is replace the current power cable. I'm still looking for a new set of slings, even though it is very difficult to see that the RHS is broken - but that's no excuse for leaving it there. I have to install two new door bolts and print & laminate the instruction cards.
So here's a few pictures taken in daylight to "show off" the ramp and the 99% completion of the machine. I've covered most of the processes I've used, so these pictures are the culmination of those efforts. The ramp is the "standout" - I can never look at another Addams with a standard smoked ramp.
Just a recap - these are the parts I've used for this machine. Note that EVERYTHING was bought from Pinball Spare Parts and RTBB - support these guys as they are doing a great job supporting this site and the community in general !
Ramp
Bookcase Base and top
Flipper Kits (2)
Rubber kit
Globes
Aussie Door
Globe Condoms
Chair Cliffy
Purple Posts
Leg Bolts
Blue Target - Heavy Duty
Coil Sleeves
Capacitors
Bridge Rectifiers
Repairs
Special thanks to Angelo (Slammer) for repairing the scoops and metal ramp
Boards - Upgrades completed - no repairs required other than one connector
Tools
Windex
Nifti
Rags
Scotchbrite
Mr Sheen
Novus 2
Meguairs Paste Wax
Flitz
Aoyue 701 Desoldering / Soldering station made board upgrades a Breeze !!
Some pictures of the finished machine (still to be played to iron out any problems)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com.au/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF122.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com.au/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF123.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com.au/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF124.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com.au/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF125.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com.au/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF126.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com.au/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF127.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com.au/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF128.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com.au/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF130.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com.au/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF132.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com.au/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF119.jpg)
:D
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Looks amazing Nino!. Congrats on a top job ^^^
Anna was having a great time on the one at Tony's meet the other night. Not many DMD's interest her. I guess there's a good reason they made 20k of these :)
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WOW!! top job bro! ^^^ im itchin to do mine... just wonering if you going to do any mod's? eg...uncle fester in the chair,gold rom's, ect
you wound'nt have a ball park figure for all the parts you have fitted too,
keep up the great work #*#
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Very nice pin inside and out.
()
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Looks amazing Nino!. Congrats on a top job ^^^
Anna was having a great time on the one at Tony's meet the other night. Not many DMD's interest her. I guess there's a good reason they made 20k of these :)
I love Addams Family - Awesome pinball. It appeals to hardcore pinheads and kids. A "Family" pinball like Fishtales. It also attracts its fair share of critics, but I have no idea why !
WOW!! top job bro! ^^^ im itchin to do mine... just wonering if you going to do any mod's? eg...uncle fester in the chair,gold rom's, ect
you wound'nt have a ball park figure for all the parts you have fitted too,
keep up the great work #*#
No Mods - I'm not really into mods. They look great, but I'd rather spend the $$ on new flipper kits / ramps etc.. How much did I spend on parts ? I'd say around $600. Ramp was the main expense, but flipper kits X2 was also a requirement. I could have repaired the ramp, and left the flippers as they were, but I wanted this machine to be 100%.
If you have an Addams with a broken ramp - I recommend these clear ramps. They are thicker and stronger. They look 100 times better than the smoked ramps.
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Beautiful..........
This machine is on my wish list.......
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Looks very nice and cant wait to do mine.How long did it take to do in hours total as it didnt seam to take you to long to do.
Cheers
Craig
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Looks very nice and cant wait to do mine.How long did it take to do in hours total as it didnt seam to take you to long to do.
Cheers
Craig
Around 30+ hours - not that long. Just a steady pace.
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NICE Nino – came up VERY good – seemingly very quickly @@*
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Great job mate, fantastic result ^^^
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Looks real nice maaaaaaaaaaaaate,
Now how about you do a real pin &&
Time for an EM rebuild....you have a few to do #@#
As Rod mentioned Dan's AF got a hammering last Saturday at my meet....even my kids played it :lol
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Awesome work Nino. I'd be soooo happy if, whenever I get around to doing a clean-up or resto, it comes up half as good as yours ^^^
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That's some sexy pinball porn right there, hope i can do that level of detail on my resto.
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Looks real nice maaaaaaaaaaaaate,
Now how about you do a real pin &&
Time for an EM rebuild....you have a few to do #@#
As Rod mentioned Dan's AF got a hammering last Saturday at my meet....even my kids played it :lol
Yes Tony - I hear you !
Which one first ? Bally Mariner or Williams A-Go-Go #@#
Awesome work Nino. I'd be soooo happy if, whenever I get around to doing a clean-up or resto, it comes up half as good as yours ^^^
Take your time and enjoy the process - no reason why yours can't be of the same standard.
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Oh.....maaaaaaaaaaaaaate do the Bally Mariner - have always loved that game *%*
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Oh.....maaaaaaaaaaaaaate do the Bally Mariner - have always loved that game *%*
That's a definite keeper, Tony. It will sit next to my Fathom. I was tempted in buying MarkC's GTB Scuba to go next to the Fathom. The Mariner is a 9/10 mate - I'll shoot you some pictures !
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Finished the game last week, and it had its first "test run" in the gamesroom for my Daughter's first Birthday. Not one problem - which was great.
I wanted to add a fuse to each of the magnets, just as a precautionary measure. Was very simply really. I screwed in a bank of three fuse holders and rewired a new connector to pass through the fuse banks. Took me 15 minutes and looks like this ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF133.jpg)
I tracked down new slingshots, and they arrived early this week, so I installed them straight away !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF145.jpg)
They look GREAT lit up ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF155.jpg)
Some pictures during the day with the Flash off ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF157.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF158.jpg)
The only wear spot on the playfield ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF159.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF160.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF161.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF162.jpg)
Final pictures with the Flash on;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF164.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/TAF/TAF146.jpg)
I have decided to sell the game, so I will work out a price and offer it here before eBay.
*%*
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Nice machine Nino !
Good luck with the sale....
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Decided against TAF? The horrors :)
Mine has a wear spot in the exact same spot! Cliffy has a protector for the vault as well, but it covers very little.
Make sure to play it a bunch and enjoy it a bunch before you let it go!
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Decided against TAF? The horrors :)
Mine has a wear spot in the exact same spot! Cliffy has a protector for the vault as well, but it covers very little.
Make sure to play it a bunch and enjoy it a bunch before you let it go!
I LOVE TAF !
I just have to pay off a container. I've played 100 games or so on this game, and its the best TAF I've ever played, so it makes it EXTRA difficult to move on. My passion is more for SS and EM titles. I enjoy doing DMDs, but in all honesty, besides my CV, I see myself owning a Scared Stiff and maybe an Addams later on. I have to finish the SS collection off before I decide on SS / TAF.
Nice machine Nino !
Good luck with the sale....
Thanks Marco !
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I have decided to sell the game, so I will work out a price and offer it here before eBay.
Awesome work Nino, I hope that I am able to own a TAF one day that is in as good a condition as the one you have restored ^^^
You don't do lay-buy, do you? && %.%
Matthew
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Good luck with the sale Nino, I'm sure you'll have no problem finding a buyer
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Good luck with the sale Nino, I'm sure you'll have no problem finding a buyer
Cheers Matt !
FOR SALE
Thread here ;
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=3290.0
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good job.