The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Technical Matters => Circuit Board Repair Guides => Topic started by: deep six on June 23, 2011, 05:24:28 PM
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Hi all
Just wanted to post an article re: soldering circuit boards, not because I'm bragging I'm smart (cos I'm not) but just thought this might be useful info for anyone else who is new to fixing their own boards.
As a side note, I recently expanded my collection with two new machines, A Stern Galaxy and a Hankin Howzat, neither of these machines are running although they did when I first got them so not sure if I am going forward or backward.
I have done a lot of reading both here and other locations on the web to try and learn as much as I can about repair before I jump into the deep end and try my own hand.
First thing I purchased was a mid range soldering station from Jaycar, along with that I figured I would buy one of their kits to give me a bit of experience in soldering before tackling my pinball board.
But thinking to myself I realised the kit would only give me experience soldering new components on a new board and I still needed experience with working on an old board.
I went to a friend who works at a computer shop and asked if he could give me some old motherboards to practice on, He gladly shoved an old mother board and a network card and sent me on my way.
However I quickly realised the tracks and components on these were way too small and wouldn't be very good to practice on.
I ended up finding a flouro light ballast (I think) in a scrap bin which was perfect for what I wanted.
So with flouro board in hand I fired up my new soldering station, set the temp to 300 degrees as that is what the instructions recommended for de-soldering small components. At the start I was lazy and tried to de-solder a resistor without cutting it off at the legs, I ended up pulling one of the solder pads out so this was good experience. From there on I cut each component off before trying to de-solder. Now de-soldering is a time consuming process, it takes seemingly endeless pumps with the de-soldering tool to remove the molten solder but if you persevere you will end up with nice clean tracks and little solder left.
This is about where I am up to for now, I have removed about half the components from one side of the board, and will try cleaning the tracks and soldering back some components.
Here is a pic of the board I am working on, note the missing pad on R1 where I was a bit aggressive removing it.
(http://www.atcheaven.com/Images/Board.jpg)
Another pic of the Jaycar kit got to practice with, no prizes for guessing why I picked this particular kit
(http://www.atcheaven.com/Images/knightrider.jpg)
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It is a great idea to practice on old boards. This will give you a good understanding of soldering before embarking on the expensive pinball boards ^^^
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good stuff.buy the time you have mastered the art your eyes will start to fail you. %.%
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Great stuff,
At least you've found that motherboards and PC cards are too fine, and no comparison to typical pinball cards.
If you want larger components+pads to play with, i STRONGLY suggest you pickup some $5 radios, cassette decks or old TV's from your local opp-shop.
Or, grab radios/TV's from your next council nature strip cleanup.
(although that might be a while away, assuming they do that in your area, not all councils do it).
Anyway, back to thrift shops or tip/recycling centres, keep an eye out for old tape decks & radios, they all have same size components as pinball cards.....
You'll then get a real good feel for how quickly (or slowly) your iron melts the solder, and how much solder to use when soldering components back in etc.....
hope it helps,
MM
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I've been trying for years and this is the best I can manage:
(http://www.homepin.com/pics/badsolder01.jpg)(http://www.homepin.com/pics/badsolder02.jpg)(http://www.homepin.com/pics/badsolder03.jpg)
%.% %.% %.%
Seriously though - it won't take long, a few hours practice and you will be away!
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I've been trying for years and this is the best I can manage:
(http://www.homepin.com/pics/badsolder01.jpg)(http://www.homepin.com/pics/badsolder02.jpg)(http://www.homepin.com/pics/badsolder03.jpg)
Is that the new Bally MPU boards???? :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol
When you master soldering, you'll find it's actually hard to solder poorly, as odd as that sounds.
MM
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Good advice, practice does make perfect!
I have been soldering since I was a teenager, maybe longer, so it doesn't take long to get back into the groove if I am building a kit.
You can sometimes pick up kits on eBay to practice on as well.
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when replacing components on used circuit boards I always cut the legs, also I always add some fresh solder with my soldering iron to the pads before I desolder (helps with the heat transfer)
I always use a good quality solder with a good quality flux (poor quality flux will corrode the pads and tracks on the board if its not removed and will shorten the life of your solder and desoldering tips)
I only use thin solder when soldering components (0.8 mm)
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I only use thin solder when soldering components (0.8 mm)
I never USED to be a big fan of thinner solders - preferring to use 1mm BUT lately I have been using 0.8mm from WES (made in Taiwan) and it is better than anything else I have ever used. Proper FULL lead count and excellent flux....lead free solder is just wank....a bit like McNuggets, Chicken nuggets without containing any chicken - - - now that is 100% McWank %.%
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I only use thin solder when soldering components (0.8 mm)
I never USED to be a big fan of thinner solders - preferring to use 1mm BUT lately I have been using 0.8mm from WES (made in Taiwan) and it is better than anything else I have ever used. Proper FULL lead count and excellent flux....lead free solder is just wank....a bit like McNuggets, Chicken nuggets without containing any chicken - - - now that is 100% McWank %.%
Lead free solder is absolute CRAP. Being an electronics tech, theres nothing i hate more than trying to desolder a component that has been soldered with lead free solder. And its difficult to tell if the solder joints in any electronic piece of equipment are good or not these days coz all lead free solder joints look bad from the factory, even when they are ok!!
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Lead free solder is absolute CRAP.
But lead is unsafe!
Mostly when being thrown at you at high speed.
But yea. Lead-Free is only "free" if you don't mind frustration and failure. I'm an old hand at frustration and failure, but I never learned to like it yet.
Figures the price of leaded solder went up 3X once it became a government problem.
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Yea, nice thin solder, nice thin tip, heat up the pad and wire then slowly feed solder though once you have enough solder, wait a few seconds and take off the heat, my dad started teaching me how to solder when i was... 10? not sure... that would mean 4 years practice and working on boards already! i'm a fast learner! $#$
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I thought lead products were banned these days due to damn OH&S issues, and you couldn't import lead solder because it'll be held by customs??
or did i miss something??
MM
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I thought lead products were banned these days due to damn OH&S issues, and you couldn't import lead solder because it'll be held by customs??
or did i miss something??
MM
Thanks goodness not in Australia!!! Only EU countries at this stage where the life expectancy of new domestic products has fallen to around two years....I put MOST of that down to PB free solder causing massive dry joint problems even when the item is brand new - idiotic stuff but we are currently spared.
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Yea, nice thin solder, nice thin tip, heat up the pad and wire then slowly feed solder though once you have enough solder, wait a few seconds and take off the heat,
100% spot on.
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HI Guys
Thanks for the input, I will go and get some .8 solder now, I have been using some that has been in my tool box maybe 20 years, it is a spool that was attached to one of those solder feed guns where you puled a trigger to dispense solder on to the tip.
Thanks to Beaky for the tip on adding more solder to help when de-soldering, I knew I read this somewhere and I used this method and it worked great.
Cheers
Ric