The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Member Services => Sales and Services => Beaky's Pinball Repairs => Topic started by: beaky on August 02, 2012, 11:38:29 PM
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I get that many battery leakage repairs that it is easier for me to do them by the batch.
I start by cutting all the damaged parts off
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then i remove all the solder and legs and any dodgy I.C sockets and headers
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next i neutralise and remove all the corrosion, mask any headers and I.C sockets and clear lacquer the top of the board.
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This will be a real eye opener for some people Andy massive amount of work go into these repairs and the turn out amazing.. Keep up the great work
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This will be a real eye opener for some people Andy massive amount of work go into these repairs and the turn out amazing.. Keep up the great work
thanks mate ^^^
I have learned a few tricks along the way to speed the process up that would surprise a lot of people. just to let you in on a little secret I no longer use sand paper &&
the wpc cpu board i repaired for you ddtoys also had no sand paper used on it.
any damaged inductors are rewound with new insulated copper wire, the same gauge wire is used and it is cut at the same length.
I will up date this over the next couple of days with the rest of the procedure
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Amazing to see all those boards together with the same problem. ^%^ ^%^
You are a pinball fixing machine. $%$
Great work Beaky. ^^^
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Amazing to see all those boards together with the same problem. ^%^ ^%^
You are a pinball fixing machine. $%$
Great work Beaky. ^^^
thanks Steevsee ^^^
I have lost count of how many of these I have repaired just over the last few months. ^&^ :D
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If there are any dark spots on the traces under the green masking the masking is removed and the contamination is removed. I have seen a lot of repairs done with these spots being left and over time the spots grow and eventually eat through the traces.
the dark areas that i have exposed in the photos below are obviously bad but every dark area and spot you see in the photos will be corroded and if left untreated will become just as bad the area i have exposed
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Interesting thread ^^^
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A hell of a lot of work there Beaky. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing ^^^
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looking good so far Beaky ^^^
I just replaced one of these MPU boards In a client's Bride of Pinbot that i thought would be too far gone. I replaced it with a Rotten Dog MPU bought from Mad Amusements in the states, which is doing the job nicely.
After looking at these boards you're working on i might have to see if i can do the same with the old one.. glad i didn't chuck it out now *%* *%*
Looking forward to further updates!!
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it's very rare that i will say it's to far gone. some of these boards are going to need a hell of a lot of jumpers but to help me with this i have photos of the boards without the components in the corrosion area this makes verifying the traces a lot easier. every trace is checked whether it looks good or not. ^^^
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Its an impressive sight to see dozens n dozens of boards from all over Australia being lined up ready for the full resto.
Some people do the absolute minimum to a board when they restore it, but NOT Beaky(Andy) who goes well n truly past the point of a full resto.
Its also interesting that Andy has all his own test rigs he has designed and also built and over 50 pinball machines to test the boards in under real gameplay conditions as well as the test rigs.
Anyone wanting boards fully serviced cant go past Andy for quality work and quick service. I am currently getting my full set of 1978 Phoenix boards fully overhauled so hopefully the machine lasts another 34 years.lol
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thanks mate
I will be doing a thread on your boards soon as it will make an interesting topic.
and as you have mentioned i have built some test rigs and I am currently building more. when you go to this much effort to repair a board you need to be able to test every input and out put.
cave man was nice enough to donate his old set of phoenix displays for my early WMS test rig. ^^^ This has helped make the testing process a lot quicker for these early boards and it's something that i will be using for years to come.
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I loathe corrosion. I personally use a fiberglass sanding pin and a bead blaster to remove it.
The inductor looks very interesting. When I saw you had the board completely stripped, my first thought was, wonder what he will do about the inductor :)
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After all the soldering and testing the boards are ready to go.
Even though remote battery holders will be used I usually install the original battery holder also because it looks neater ()
Before i install the I.C.s I check every top track with a multimeter. I have a printed picture of the board without any components next to me when i do this so i can see where each track on the top is supposed to go, this is quicker then powering the board up and then figuring out which track is broken because certain switches don't work or a whole heap of switches are being triggered at the same time.
Any jumper wires that have been installed have a dab of epoxy put on them, since i have been doing this i have not have any wires broken off. A dot of epoxy is put on each end of the inductor also to hold the rod in place ( this is similar to how they came out of the factory when they were made)
They are tested, clear lacquered and then tested again before be sent out.
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and a couple more pics
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That's a lot of work mate ^^^
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That's a lot of work mate ^^^
sure is mate, but it's well worth it. one of my customers dropped by today to pick up his board and he was like $$( ^%^ #.#
i have included a photo of the bottom section of the board with no components fitted in case anyone needs it for their own acid repairs (to see which track goes where)
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You make it sound sooo easy :D :D
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You make it sound sooo easy :D :D
thanks
a few people have mentioned to me that they would try to do their own if they had a photo of where all the tracks are so i thought i would supply one. ^^^
if any one needs a higher res photo of this please email me.
I am now currently doing a sega cpu/sound board with acid damage ATM but that's another story. they can be a bit tricky due to the super fine tracks and tiny solder throughs ^&^
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This page is also quite useful:
http://www.pinballenthusiast.com/WPC_CPU/
A friend bought an unstuffed WPC CPU board from Gene Cunningham years ago, and shot some photos
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This page is also quite useful:
http://www.pinballenthusiast.com/WPC_CPU/
A friend bought an unstuffed WPC CPU board from Gene Cunningham years ago, and shot some photos
Thanks John. Photos like this can come in very handy when they are needed. ^^^
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This page is also quite useful:
http://www.pinballenthusiast.com/WPC_CPU/
A friend bought an unstuffed WPC CPU board from Gene Cunningham years ago, and shot some photos
Those pictures are very good and I applaud anyone who is trying to preserve pins and assist other enthusiasts.................BUT!!!!!!
I downloaded the pictures and spent 30 mins trying to piece them together - when I found they are ALL different sizes - they are ALL at different angles with respect to square AND there are MANY MANY parts of the board missing.
It would be nice if he took a single - very hi res picture.......or a couple, BUT at least of the ENTIRE board.
maybe you can pass that on to him since he has a blank board !@#
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Nice work mate ^^^