The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Mr Pinbologist on November 07, 2010, 10:41:14 PM
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WELL guys, today i left home a 6.30AM to drive down to Port Macquarie, Ian (howzat on here) came along for the drive, then on to Laurieton to pick up my KISS pin that i scored last week #*# #*# #*#
We got there about 11.30AM, and when we tried to power it up and start a game.. well wouldnt you know it... it decided not to work properly, the owner said it worked sometimes after switching it on and off a few times :lol
anyway i wasnt put off by that at all, especially after i got into the back box and wiggled a few connectors and things started to work. So at that point i switched it off and started to take it apart to load it into the car. so that buggered up Howzats plans of having a game before i packed it up!! oh well he'll just have to come out to Armidale and play it when its done *%* *%*
ended up paying $3000 to get it.. a bit pricey?? well maybe considering the backglass issues (more on that later) but i look at it this way... if its a pin you've been looking for for a LONG time, get it while the getting's good, and KISS is just that.. one i have always said that if one came my way for the right price i'd grab it *%*
Any pin is only worth, imo, what someone is willing to pay for it, and although this one is a pretty tired example of a KISS now.. it'll look good when im done with it.. (I HOPE) :lol
AND i sold two fender guitars to raise the rest of the money to buy it, something i swore id never do.. but they were guitars i didnt use that much anyway, so they were sold in a good cause!!
Anyway time for a few pics... the cab paint is pretty faded, definitely getting a respray!! and NO hack repairs under the pf, which was a nice change to see. Only one broken drop target. Indeed being my holy grail title it will get the full treatment, to the best of my abilities.
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And here is the part im most concerned about .. the backglass, It has sections on the bottom which the art has lifted away from the glass.. its all there though, and luckily i got it home without anymore damage to it!! Not exactly sure what to do with this yet... im thinking maybe, using a syringe, filled with triple thick or something and squirting it in between the glass and art, then spray some more TT on the backside while its laying flat, then doing the cling wrap trick and holding it down flat with a book/ piece of wood etc while it dries !@# !@# I knew the glass had damage because i could see it in the ebay pics, but i still wanted the game regardless as i reckon it was a once in a lifetime chance for me to own a KISS so i took the chance!!
Im open to any other suggestions if anyone has them!! If i can fix this, im happy to leave the glass as is coz the rest isnt really too bad at all and wont need much work.
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A few pics of the playfield...
very dirty, a few loose inserts, and not too much wear.. and complete with some Paragon bumper caps :lol
Im definitely looking forward to starting on this!!
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some of the wear spots... not too much luckily, shouldnt be too hard to fix up.. It has mylar on it that will have to be removed.
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Congrats on getting one of your 'grail' pins Mitch . Really looking forward to watching your progress to fix this old girl up to your high standard *%*
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And here is the pf after a VERY quick clean with Nifti and a cloth, just to get an idea how much work would be needed, to get it up to scratch.
I'll add some more pics tomorrow night, of the boards etc, ive moved the game into my spare room so i can start on getting it up and running properly, lots of connectors to repin, and i had to cut some wires where they had been soldered to the pin headers in the power supply in order to remove the backbox ^&^
This game, is also the VERY SAME one of two KISS machines i used to play years ago.. played it a couple of times in the Laurieton amusement centre, and is the VERY SAME game i missed out on all those years ago, that i mentioned when i did my sunday questionaire!!!! The guy i bought it from was the guy who beat me to it :lol
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Congrats on your grail mate ^^^
Bugger about the backglass. I think you'll be able to improve it. Just not sure that even the best tricks in the book will get it looking "great". Love to be proven wrong on that though ()
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Congrats on your grail mate ^^^
Bugger about the backglass. I think you'll be able to improve it. Just not sure that even the best tricks in the book will get it looking "great". Love to be proven wrong on that though ()
well it'll never look GREAT no matter what i do with it.. but if i can make it look half decent il be happy. Dont much like my chances of finding a better one in too big of a hurry !!!
The rest shouldnt present too many problems though, hopefully!!
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Good luck to you for getting this pin - we can hear the enthusiasm in your post!
It'll be great to watch you work on it.
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well it'll never look GREAT no matter what i do with it.. but if i can make it look half decent il be happy. Dont much like my chances of finding a better one in too big of a hurry !!!
The rest shouldnt present too many problems though, hopefully!!
Yeah as you mentioned, it's all there, so that is a bonus from the start.
I think you're on the right track with the TT/cling wrap. It'll look 100% better and of course stop it from getting worse.
Looking forward to seeing the results :)
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Good luck to you for getting this pin - we can hear the enthusiasm in your post!
It'll be great to watch you work on it.
Mate.. im just stoked that i was able to get the game.. you wouldnt believe the trouble i went through, trying to raise the rest of the money to get it.. i had already given the guy a deposit through the week and he removed it from ebay... i wont go into the hassles i had raising the money but i thought i was going to miss out at one point.. in the end i sold off two Fender guitars (a Strat and a Tele for the muso's out there) on friday morning to get the rest of the money i needed.
Im now down to six strats and one tele, so i shouldnt miss the two guitars i sold too bad *.* *.*
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great pick up, did you get a chance to see if he had those other parts for haunted house?
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great pick up, did you get a chance to see if he had those other parts for haunted house?
Yes i did remember to ask him for those parts but he said he didnt have anything for HH
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Well done just the history you spoke about-after all these years you purchased "THE" machine you played as a kid now that's fantastic. Mate I'll be hanging to see more pictures and can't wait for the resto thread.
Peter
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plenty of stuff in the usa for you.
new playfield
http://cgi.ebay.com/KISS-BALLY-PINBALL-MACHINE-PLAYFIELD-PART-1978-UNUSED-/160503194340?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item255ebc62e4
new backglass
http://cgi.ebay.com/KISS-PINBALL-BACKGLASS-BACK-GLASS-MIRROR-PART-1978-NEW-/150513957485?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230b54ba6d
donor machine etc
http://cgi.ebay.com/KISS-PINBALL-EXCLLENT-CONDITION-1979-/300490205824?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f69caa80
I have seen brand new backglasses for around the $200 to $250 USA, I think it was Illinois Pinball or Jeff from Classic Arcades etc.
Plenty cheap stuff in the USA.
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BIG congrats on the pickup. It is a special feeling to get your hands on that wish pin, like me with my recent Superman purchase, you probably feel like you've spent too much on it by other guys standards or comments but that is all forgotten when it is sitting in the line up. As long as you are happy - which you clearly are, then happy days and enjoy.
If you do the cling wrap thing on the the backglass, make sure you have another set of hands there to help you flatten out the cling wrap very carefully before laying it down. I tried it before and as soon as it got a few wripples in it I was stuffed - when I tried to move the cling wrap it just started moving the artwork which was similar to yours. If I had of had someone else to hold one side and me the other side, stretch it out and lay it down nice and flat it would have been good. When the TT dried, it dried with the wripples in it and the artwork. It held it in place well but looked pretty ordinary. Another thing, be wary of the lifted artwork cracking again as you flatten it out, it depends on how dry and brittle it is.
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plenty of stuff in the usa for you.
new playfield
http://cgi.ebay.com/KISS-BALLY-PINBALL-MACHINE-PLAYFIELD-PART-1978-UNUSED-/160503194340?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item255ebc62e4
new backglass
http://cgi.ebay.com/KISS-PINBALL-BACKGLASS-BACK-GLASS-MIRROR-PART-1978-NEW-/150513957485?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230b54ba6d
donor machine etc
http://cgi.ebay.com/KISS-PINBALL-EXCLLENT-CONDITION-1979-/300490205824?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f69caa80
I have seen brand new backglasses for around the $200 to $250 USA, I think it was Illinois Pinball or Jeff from Classic Arcades etc.
Plenty cheap stuff in the USA.
thanks for the links.. backglass link looks good but freight would be the killer. Im going to have to make do with my glass for the time being unfortunately. Id rather find one locally if at all possible. None of my usual bg repair tricks could be applied to this one. As for the pf, it will be restored rather than replaced. I wont be spending huge amounts of money on this game (if possible), i know it deserves to have the best, but it will get the absolute best i can do for it, to the best of my abilities.
Pin restoration for me has always been about the challenge of taking a worn out piece of crap machine, and doing the best job possible for the least possible outlay of money. Dont take that to mean im being a tight arse though.. its just that cash has always been tight for me.. i WILL spend the money when i have to *%* I just like to try other things first. Buying a repro PF would take the challenge and the fun out of it for me!!
I have repaired waaaay worse PFs than this one!! Stern Dracula and Wildfyre as examples!!
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Looking forward to watching this one come up to standards ^^^
I was thinking if my 'perspex sheet' idea would help keep your backglass in shape temporarily but I would be worried about it 'statically' grabbing the flakey art when ( or if ) you attempted to remove it later on !@# Which would NOT be good.
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Congrats on finding your holy grail, look forward to the updates
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Congrats on the purchase. I know the feeling when you buy the actual pinball you played in your youth. Money is NO object when sourcing that "Holy Grail"
pinball. As long as you finally own it, how much it cost you, should not matter.
Looking forward to the restore !
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The fact that you used to play this very machine many years ago does make it very special.
Restoring it, and getting the old girl a makeover, and keeping it original, but fixed up well, gives and keeps the machines real character. ^^^
I would probably replace the backglass in time, but restoring the playfield, and maybe clear coating it one day, will give the old girl a new lease on life.
You are right, chasing down that "elusive machine" that you have wanted for many years, is a special feeling. Walking out to your pinny room and seeing it there now forever is even better. Well done, and looking forward to the strip down and resto. ^^^ ^^^ ^^^
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Hi Mitch
I enjoyed going to Laurieton with you to get your Kiss machine Its a pitty we could not get some games but it was great to check it out again i liked playing it back in the good old days
Im lookig fwd to the resto great score Howzat :lol
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Congrats Mitch
Looking forward to the resto thread ^^^
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Congrats Mitch,looks like you'll be living on about 4 hours sleep per night for the next month or so %.% %.% %.% (((yes ,lots of work for you my friend..let the work begin....................................
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Congrats Mitch, looks like you'll be living on about 4 hours sleep per night for the next month or so %.% %.% %.% (((yes ,lots of work for you my friend..let the work begin....................................
so what else is new.. i pretty much do that now! :lol :lol :lol :lol
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ALL TOGETHER NOW " I gunna work on pin's all night,and sleep all day , hey" start writing mitch &&
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ALL TOGETHER NOW " I gunna work on pin's all night,and sleep all day , hey" start writing mitch &&
%.% %.% %.% %.% %.% %.% %.% %.% %.%
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WELL GUYS... THE WORK HAS BEGUN!!
As i mentioned before, i moved KISS into the spare room so i could work on it at night, Quick draw has been put aside for the time being (thinking of selling it as i've kinda lost interest in it.. for now at least)
Anyway back to KISS... started work on getting it up and running properly yesterday evening, 1st couple of pics show the boards. In the 2nd pic you can see the hacked power supply board, with the connectors cut and having been hard wired.. and a bridge rectifier mounted off the board with wires...typical of most of these games of this vintage ^&^
Power supply hasnt been done yet, all ive done with it so far was to wire a new connector housing for the wires i had to cut in order to remove the backbox to get the game into the car. At this time im only doing enough to get the game to work.. i'll rebuild/repair boards etc as i go through them all one at at time once the game is running.
2nd pic was taken after unloading it out of the car. the power supply was working when i picked the game up so i havent done anything else to it just yet, but it'll be rebuilt later.
today i removed the displays, solenoid driver and lamp driver from the game for inspection and repair/mods as needed. For the displays, first i resoldered the obviously cracked header pins, then plugged each one into my test rig.. i only had to replace the six 100k resistors to get them all working!!, though a couple of them have burn spots in some of the segments, the glasses will be replaced later on.
Now the lamps also were doing some strange things in the game, so the lamp driver was tested in the test rig next. Several lamps were staying on in the game, and others were coming on at the wrong times! In the test rig, about half of the test LEDs driven by U3, were staying on, and this was affecting the other decoder ICs as well. Replacing U3 fixed all of the problems in one hit!! I fitted a IC socket for the new IC. 3rd and 4th pics show the lamp driver being tested.
The only work needed on the solenoid driver board was to replace the header pins, and the usual upgrades from Clays repair guides. The high voltage section had been repaired at some stage, with different transistors, but it was working fine so i'll leave it for now. Also the big cap for the 5 volt had been changed at some stage, and looks fairly new, but i might change it anyway now the game is running.
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And now... IT LIVES #*# #*# #*#
i got to play a few games on her tonight, i still have a few things to do, some connectors to repin on the MPU (causing displays to flicker intermittently) One drop target is missing, found one in the bottom of the cabinet. And the auxilliary lamp drive board isnt working right.
Also i need to get the sound board repaired as its doing strange things and playing wrong notes/sounds. I plugged my 6million$man sound board just so i could hear some sounds as i was playing it (it worked, just played the sounds a couple of semitones higher that original pitch). I have some ICs on order that i hope will fix the original, should have them next week.
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Nice start, always good for the game to work - looking forward to see what you end up doing with this one.
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No mucking around here, #*# cant wait to see how it turns out
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Good one Mitch ^^^
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Hi all.. time for a little update;
The game is now 100% working, after repairing the sound board and the auxiliary driver board.
The sound board i ended up replacing just about every IC on there to get it going as it had several problems. The main problem ICs ended up being U1, U4, U5 and U9... as well as R21 and C16 which are the timing components for the 555 timer IC on the board.
Part of U1 is the main oscillator for the tone generator, which wasnt working at all (no oscillation so no tones), U4 and U5 were causing the tones being played to be all over the place, and U9 was causing low volume. I socketed most of the ICs that i replaced, for easy repair in the future if needed.
For the auxiliary driver board i replaced U2 and U3 (both 4555 CMOS ICs) which saw the lights in the KISS lights for the BG working properly, plus resoldering a few header pins and replacing a burnt connector pin, in the pic the housing hasnt been replaced as yet but it will be soon, now that the game is all running properly.
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Good stuff Mitch. ^^^
Now go find that copy of KISS ALIVE! and belt out some tunes #*#
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and over the last couple of weeks i have done some work on the backglass...
first some pics of what i was dealing with...
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It's always great to get your holy grail pin & as far as getting 'the' one you played when you were a kid is priceless.
good job so far ^^^
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and here are the results of my attempts to save the backglass.. using Triple Thick and cling wrap.
First i needed to get tripe thick between the peeling artwork and the glass. To do that, after laying the glass flat i used a drinking straw, held against the TT spray nozzle to get a heap of TT UNDER the lifted artwork, then i sprayed more TT onto the back of the art before CAREFULLY laying the clingwrap over the wet TT and pressing it down into position, luckily the art hadnt shrunk too bad at all and it all went into place pretty well, i held it all in place with pieces of plywood and weights and left it to dry. i ended up having to leave it for over a week, for it to dry properly, it took ages because the TT between the glass and artwork wasnt really exposed to air so it took longer ^&^
It also ended up getting a few bubbles in it which i want too happy about, but considering what i started with it could have been a LOT worse, anyway 1st pic was taken from under the glass while the TT was drying, and the others are how the glass currently looks.
I plan on doing more work on this glass.. the lit up KISS name has a few cracks through it, so my plans are to re-do this area using the same tricks i used on my Zaccaria Universe BG restore...
Stay tuned for further updates
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Huge improvement well done
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Very hard to tell it was peeling to begin with !
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Its not perfect by any means, but its MUCH better than it was *%* these pics dont really show it but it can be seen from certain angles/reflections where the bad bits are. It now just looks like a glass where the paint has just started to lift, i still think i may be able to get it better, if i can get a syringe and needle and fill it with TT and fill these bits, which should make these bits all but invisible from the front.
And yes Nino, i HAD been listening to KISS while working on the game!! Double Platinum to be precise, as i found it first :D
il have to dig out ALIVE! and put that on when working on it next *%*
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These Bally glasses are a bitch for lifting like that you have managed to do well. My kiss backglass that was missing the center most regular people can't even tell it's repaired untill I point it out ( not sure why I point it out). Point being only you will notice so be happy with your efforts
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Neat job, backglasses scare me, they are so important for the look of a game, good work making this very presentable.
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Mitch,
This is looking great #*# Its good to be able to compare what you had, to the photos you updated us with. AMAZING transformation, and like Daniel said - It will only be you who picks out the tiniest imperfections. Everyone else will simply be blown away.
Top job,
Timbo
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Great improvement on the BG Mitch ^^^
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Thanks for the supportive words guys ^^^
stay tuned for further improvements
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Good stuff so far, keep up the great work !
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I recon it would be a waste of money buying a back glass after seeing how good this looks.
Like you most of my restores involves repairing what I can, rather than replacing.
Keep the PIC"S coming!
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great job with the TT. Looks good. @@*
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THE WORK HAS BEGUN!!!!
Now that the wildfyre pf is finally gone $#$ i can finally start on my holy grail pin resto #*# #*# #*#
Martin, my mate who owns the wildfyre pf, came over this afternoon, to collect his pf, and for a few games on KISS before i dismantled it :lol
anyway after several games where i flogged him about three games in a row, he promptly whipped my arse on the last game the bastard!
well anyway after we loaded his PF into the car, he offered me a hand to load the KISS pf onto the rotisserie, which i took him up on, so i had the Kiss pf unplugged and mounted onto the jig in no time. He then hung around most of the afternoon and helped me to strip the topside of the PF of all of its parts, which went pretty quick with the two of us *%*
anyway after that i barely had time to grab the camera for a few "before" pics of the grubby pf, when Martin, went nuts with the Nifti and rag, so the pics you see here, he has cleaned the bottom half of the pf, and i stopped him so i could take some pics :lol
As i mentioned the top half hasnt been cleaned and the bottom has in these pics.
I had already started chasing up some of the parts not long after i got the machine, 4th pic shows some of the new parts i have so far... bumper caps, bumper bodies and skirts, new drop targets and a new shooter rod, most of the parts came from PSPA, except the bumper caps (and a KISS manual) which came from Bumper Action.
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next i started on the painful job of mylar removal, the part i definitely hate doing most!!
This pf had three areas covered with mylar, the main lower section between the flippers and bumpers, around the bumpers them selves, and the top arch area.
1st pic is after the clean up, mentioned in the previous post,
2nd pic shows the top arch area half way thru mylar removal. Notice too the haze from the test cleanup with magic eraser and isocol, (got a bit ahead of myself) :lol
i didnt get any pics of the lower section mylar coming off, but the 3rd pic shows the bonus area, where some paint DID come up, i knew that SOME paint would lift, i was VERY careful and took my time removing the mylar, i was just hoping that it wouldnt happen in this area ^&^ ^&^, as the bonus insert area was the one part i was most concerned about paint lifting... and making the job harder for me !!!, not impossible, just a bit more work than i had hoped i wouldnt have to do.. anyhoo, it could've been a LOT worse i guess!!
And while i was removing the mylar, Martin decided to give the plastics a bit of a cleanup with some warm water and detergent, they came up pretty good, and will look even better with a polish up.. I'm pretty happy that the plastics are still in nice shape, and wont need to be replaced!
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just a few more pics for now... top arch section after cleaning off of the mylar glue and some cleaning with Magic Eraser and isocol, and some worn areas around the bumpers that i will have to repaint..
stay tuned for further updates!!
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WHITE SPIRIT from paint section in hardware store will lift MYLAR and leave the most fragile of paint on the PF still. It dissolves the glue for a short while enabling you to lift it bit by bit. Takes some time but is the best method i know of to remove the stuff
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WHITE SPIRIT from paint section in hardware store will lift MYLAR and leave the most fragile of paint on the PF still. It dissolves the glue for a short while enabling you to lift it bit by bit. Takes some time but is the best method i know of to remove the stuff
Thanks for the tip Gavin, i still have a lot of the glue to remove, im about to go out and get stuck into it real soon *%*
Might have to have a look for white spirit while im out and about later
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WHITE SPIRIT from paint section in hardware store will lift MYLAR and leave the most fragile of paint on the PF still. It dissolves the glue for a short while enabling you to lift it bit by bit. Takes some time but is the best method i know of to remove the stuff
White spirits is something I always have on hand, its great stuff
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WHITE SPIRIT from paint section in hardware store will lift MYLAR and leave the most fragile of paint on the PF still. It dissolves the glue for a short while enabling you to lift it bit by bit. Takes some time but is the best method i know of to remove the stuff
Thanks for the tip Gavin, i still have a lot of the glue to remove, im about to go out and get stuck into it real soon *%*
Might have to have a look for white spirit while im out and about later
Make sure it is White Spirit that you get... is used as a thinner for enamel paints and a hardware worker will tell you that Turps and White Spirit are the same... they are 2 completely different things when it comes to glue removal as Turps wont touch it
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This game is going to look sweet once you've worked your magic Mitch *%*
Cheers
Dave
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Make sure it is White Spirit that you get... is used as a thinner for enamel paints and a hardware worker will tell you that Turps and White Spirit are the same... they are 2 completely different things when it comes to glue removal as Turps wont touch it
The solvents I usually try when removing adhesive are White Spirits, Metho, acetone and Turps, and it depends on the composition of the adhesive as to which works and which doesn't.
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White Spirits ISN'T Oil based. Turps is. White Spirits is good to clean with b4 painting / etching etc also.
Must be exciting to be working on your Holy Grail pin ^^^
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yepp definitely exciting working on the machine i most wanted for all those years!!
I went to bunnings for some supplies, and bought some white spirits to try on the mylar glue, although it worked ok, i ended up going back to Prepsol, as im used to using it for glue removal.
i made some pretty good progress today with it and took a few pics, even managed to start airbrushing the bonus insert area.. despite the shitty cold and wet weather here! i have sanded the paint back and i need to air brush on another light coat to even it out again, will do that tomorrow after work.
Will post pics tomorrow night!!
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I use shellite if the glue is still soft and easily removed. For stubborn residue, I use Goof Off - also available at Bunnings. Be VERY careful with this product. It's biggest advantage is that it easily removes residue, but it's disadvantage is that the fumes are really bad, and you need to be careful as it can lift paint if you let it settle for too long.
Shellite (White Spirits) is also called Naptha in the USA.
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Shellite (White Spirits) is also called Naptha in the USA.
Well I didn't know they were all the same thing. ^^^ Thanks for that info Nino.
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Well done this machine looks nice and will come up a treat-Bet your spewing work got in the way when your on a roll ^&(.
Peter
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Mitch, I use wax and grease remover from Supercheap. What is the chemical name for this? is it shellite.
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Wax and grease remover is SHELLITE
NAPTHA is SHELLITE
WHITE SPIRIT is NOT SHELLITE
... Just thought id clear that up
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Wax and grease remover is SHELLITE
NAPTHA is SHELLITE
WHITE SPIRIT is NOT SHELLITE
... Just thought id clear that up
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphtha
"Shellite (Australia), also known as white gas (North America), white spirit (outside the UK) or Coleman fuel, is a white liquid with a hydrocarbon odour."
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Mitch, I use wax and grease remover from Supercheap. What is the chemical name for this? is it shellite.
Thats what im using, wax & grease remover from Supercheap. Prepsol is just another brand name i think for the same stuff so thats what i refer to it as. So the Supercheap wax & grease remover IS Prepsol far as im concerned.. its the same stuff as the "Prepsol" brand i used years ago when working with my brother spraypainting/panelbeating cars.
Anyway... back on topic, update coming tonight *%*
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Wax and grease remover is SHELLITE
NAPTHA is SHELLITE
WHITE SPIRIT is NOT SHELLITE
... Just thought id clear that up
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphtha
"Shellite (Australia), also known as white gas (North America), white spirit (outside the UK) or Coleman fuel, is a white liquid with a hydrocarbon odour."
Interesting.... but the two have distinctly different smells and also behave differently in situations. Yes the two may well come from the same source but its a bit like saying deisel and petrol are the same substance
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HI guys here is a bit of an update as promised...
Ok, after the mylar glue clean up, i started on the lower section with the Magic Eraser and isopropyl alcohol on the areas of ball swirl, followed by a scrub with Prepsol and rag. After the mylar and glue removal, plus this work its starting to look better already with nice n bright colours!
First pic is of the right hand side just above the right flipper area, before cleaning, the rest are of the areas already cleaned up, didnt get before pics of the left side and outhole area @.@
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and now some pics of the bonus inserts area that i started on yesterday.
first couple of pics show what i had to deal with. Some of this happened with the mylar removal ^&^
With this PF, im using white primer instead of the grey i have used in the past, so it should be much easier getting good paint coverage. In the 1st pic you can see i was starting to apply the primer around one of the inserts when the pic was taken. The primer was sanded with 400 grit wet&dry and windex, then wiped down with Prepsol prior to spraying any colour on.
To paint this area im using.. once again automotive spray can acrylics, only with this section i decided to use the airbrush with the chosen colour, its called bahama beige, and is a pretty decent match for the yellowed white in this area, plus using the air brush allowed me to blend the colour into the original colour, making any difference less noticeable, plus allowing me to still see the text underneath so i could reproduce it later.
I also used this colour to fill in a few cracks, just brushing it into the cracks, leaving it slightly raised above the pf surface then block sanding it level with 400 grit wet&dry and windex and a cork sanding block cut down in size for doing small areas. In the 3rd pic you can see where i have filled in some small divots in the surface of the PF. last pic is after a couple of light coats with the airbrush, plus some more filling having been done, yet to be sanded back smooth when the pic was taken.
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And here is what i have done this afternoon..
I got home and block sanded the paint back level, ready for a couple more light coats with the airbrush. In the 1st pic i am re-doing the '1000' and '3000' text, and reinked the 'bonus' lettering.
And 2nd pic with the rest of the text done, i ended up using laser printer waterslide decals for these, made form pics taken of the area before hand, and cleaned up and resized in photoshop. I may end up redoing the 'bonus' text in the same way... This laser waterslide decal paper is MUCH better than the inkjet paper, as you dont have to clearcoat the decal before using, so it ends up a lot thinner and a LOT less noticeable on the end product, in fact most people would never know they are decals unless they are pointed out!
next i will remove the rest of the inserts and re-level and refit them to the PF, then i will move onto the next section to repair!!
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Looks great - thanks for the pics.
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Hi Mitch
Its looking good and its good of Martin to help you with it It must of been good to get it striped down and into the p/f jig I will catch up with you at xmas Howzat
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Quick update:
For the last few days, i've been busy leveling inserts. For the arrow inserts i decided to try something different, instead of sanding them flat. When i did the inserts on Travel time, i found that with the clock arrow inserts, sanding the inserts weakened them, making it a real ordeal getting them level with the pf surface. So with this pf, after i had glued the arrow inserts in, i decided to try leveling them by spraying clear acrylic lacquer over the inserts then sanding the clear level with the pf surface. I knew this would be time consuming to do, requiring multiple coats and sanding between coats to get the the clear level, but i thought it was worth trying.
First thing i did was to cut out a cardboard stencil of the inserts shape for spraying the clear on, When glueing the inserts i actually deliberately allowed the insert to sit very slightly below the pf surface (since i use PVA woodglue for the inserts, it would be fairly easy for me to remove them if this idea didnt work).
I tried it on just one insert first before committing to doing them all. The 1st pic here shows the stencil and the clear being sprayed on (i sanded the inserts lightly with 400 grit prior to installing them and spraying). 2nd pic shows one of the inserts with the clear sprayed on and drying. When dry, i sanded the clear with 600 grit wet&dry and Windex, until level with the pf. of course i had to do this several times (spray more clear and sand) before i had it level. This actually worked well, well enough that i did the rest of the arrow inserts this way.
3rd pic shows the white, yellow and green arrow inserts leveled. after i had the four left hand side arrows levelled, i lightly sanded them and the surrounding PF surface with 800 grit wet&dry & Windex, and followed that with 1200 grit. Ideally a polish with some Novus would've been the next step, but i didnt have any on hand so i used some "Re-po Paint Doctor" car paint fine scratch removing polish, they came up a treat after this step (not yet done in these pics) and because this stuff contains wax, i followed this with a wipe over with Prepsol and cloth, so i wouldnt have any problems when doing the black around the inserts. Incidentally, when i sanded the inserts i made sure not to remove the black from the inserts, so as to make it easier later on to re-do the black around them.
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More pics; this time the lower orange inserts. I was still doing the inserts one at a time at this stage> When i came to the right hand side arrows i made a stencil to do the four at once, saving me a bit of time :D
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After i had all of the arrow inserts done, i started re-doing the black around them. I had already glued the K-I-S-S inserts a week ago before i had started on the arrow inserts. In the 1st pic i am just starting to repaint the insert black circles, painting them by hand, using the original black which was still visible under the airbrushed white.
And a pic of how its looking so far. In this pic i still have a half of the round inserts to do, all of the arrow inserts have had the black redone.
Last pic for now, i started reinstalling the lower PF inserts, the 2X insert has been filled with clear same as the arrow inserts, allowing me to save the text on the insert, rather than making a decal as i have done in the past. The other three inserts i sanded them flat before installing.
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Impressive results !
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Top work Mitch I love the way your not afraid to try new ideas I mean it's only your holy Grail kiss machine let try something completely different lol
Great work
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Thanks guys ^^^
a few more pics, marking out the circles for the inserts, so i could hand paint them.. these ones the black was too hard to see, or sanded off so i had to mark out where i had to paint to with a sharp pencil and a math-o-mat. there was still a little bit of tidying up of the black to be done when the last pic was taken, where i had gone outside of the lines slightly. This cleaned up nicely with just a bit of scraping with a scalpel.
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1st pic, some of the damage done when the mylar rings around the bumpers were removed ^&^
2nd pic same area but showing the "dragon", and the paint that lifted. this afternoon i hand painted all of the missing paint back in, using a downloaded pic of this area as a guide to recreate the missing detail as best as i could.
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1st pic... here are the results, after about 2 hours or so of painting!! yes that was just to redo the just the damage done from removing the bumper mylar rings ^&^
time taken up just matching the green colour which took several attempts to do, and to repaint in by hand the black detail lines, which was tricky to do and get neat, its still not perfect, there are a couple of bits that i will redo and tidy up a bit more, before moving on to the next section to be repaired. And all i had to go off was a picture downloaded from IPDB.
And finally a couple of pics giving an overview of what has been done so far.
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Great work Mitch, coming along really nicely.
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Looking great Mitch ^^^ Thanks for all the detailed tips re your insert work too.
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Today i did some work on the bumper area, which was pretty hammered. 1st pic shows what i was dealing with..
I started with the flames around the cauldron, rather than paint by hand i decided to mask off and spray paint the colours back in. In the 2nd pic im tracing the orange flames so i can redo them back in later. First i had filled the wear spots and areas of missing paint with primer and block sanded the whole area including the black which i also wanted to redo, with 400 grit wet&dry and Windex, followed by a wipe down with Prepsol. Next i masked off the area to be sprayed yellow, using clear contact, as per usual :D and cut out the areas to be painted with a scalpel. Once again im using acrylic spraycans for most of this.. the colour is called yellow glow.
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Next i placed another piece of contact onto the yellow when it had dried ready to do the orange. Then i taped down the tracing i had done earlier for the orange flames, back onto the pf, lined it up with alignment marks i had made on it and placed some carbon paper underneath and traced the flames back onto the contact, in the 2nd pic you can see the tracings ready to be cut out.
The orange used was called Venus orange, and is the same colour i have used on both Wildfyre and Dracula, and is an almost exact match!
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the other area i worked on which was pretty bad was the catman and spaceman's faces, which came up pretty good just with a scrub with isopropyl alcohol and Magic eraser. also i redid the areas just below their faces, by masking off and spraying new colour. Notice in the 1st pic, i have sprayed in the off white below Ace's face.. before i sprayed the colour on, i traced over the black detail markings first with a sharpie pen, and allowed this to bleed back thru the paint after it was sprayed on. This trick allows me to draw or paint the lines/markings back in later after the white has dried!! Its a trick i stumbled across by accident on an earlier resto, when i had to repaint a section that had sharpie ink, and it kept bleeding back thru the paint i was laying down ^&^
well now i have learned to exploit this to my advantage #*#
Last couple of pics, a bit of a before and after :D i still have a bit of work to sharpen up the detail a bit, but i was keen to post some progress pics!!
Also i still have to redo the black around the top bumper area and in the cauldron.. will be done tomorrow.
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You always make it sound so simple Mitch .. tks for the update
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Some more progress pics;
I've been able to get heaps done, being on holidays from work. i've been just repainting sections of the pf one at a time,
pics; repainting the orange around the cauldron and the black around the top bumper.
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more pics, this time redoing the white above the bumpers and around the top rollover lanes..
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but wait there's more! :D
not much to do now, still have a few inserts to level, and i plan on redoing all of the white under the plastics areas (pic of slings area done, pic below) and just a few small areas to touch up and i'm done!! #*#
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Hey mate im new on here but have a suggestion for your backglass.
I have always used playfield ( 3m brand ) mylar for any flaky glasses and have neveraad a drama other than the occaisional air bubble if its not applied correctly.
I can see why you want to stick the paint to the glass initially and that sounds like a good idea but i would seal it with mylar if it were mine.
I always would worry that the TT may crack at some stage and crack the paint as well.
this cant happen with mylar.
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Another update:
As mentioned, i still had a few inserts to level.. these inserts i decided to try filling them with acrylic lacquer, but this time i removed them from the pf to do it! Basically i did the same exact thing as with the arrow inserts, ie spray acrylic on to fill and sand, fill and sand etc, until flat. It took about a day and a half to do it while waiting for lacquer to dry so i could sand, but it worked out pretty well. To sand them i placed a sheet of 800 grit wet&dry on a flat surface, sprayed on some Windex, and sanded until the black on the outside edge just started to disappear, then i would clean with Prepsol and respray more acrylic on and let them dry again. i did the several times until they were completely filled and flat. after that i gave them a sand with 1200 grit and finally a polish then installed them.
pics were taken half way thru the process, and you can still see the low spots.
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And today despite the shitty rainy weather, i managed to get the rest of the painting done with no major problems #*#
In these pics i'm redoing the rest of the white sections so it all matches. I didnt bother doing the bits that would be hidden under the wooden guide rails (why bother when it'll never n be seen?!!) When it had dried i sanded it level first with 800 grit wet&dry and Windex then 1200 grit.
the pf is now pretty much done and ready for the mylar, but first i will go over the whole pf and look for any spots i may have missed when doing the touchups.
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The mylar is on!!
Even though i had it spotlessly clean, somehow a bit of dust got under in one spot ^.^ not happy about that, AND it had to happen in a black section !!!
But you know what, i'l tell you what i believe.... SHIT HAPPENS! Its not the first time it has happened and probably wont be the last. Luckily it only happened in one spot, as for the rest i couldnt be happier with how it has turned out...
The wood guide rails have been painted as well, just the top piece needs to be removed and painted, i wanted the side ones done and put back on so the pf wouldnt bend from the weight too much.
EDIT; the dust spot was near the bottom edge on the left hand side, i actually managed to lift the mylar and get the dirt speck out with a scalpel, though you can still see where it was, at least its now stuck down flat in that spot. Plus i burnished it down real hard again with the back of a teaspoon (with a piece of paper between the spoon and the mylar) so its less noticeable now.
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It's comming along fast now,it will be ready to play next week the way your going :lol.looking good Mitch ^^^
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Mitch, have you noticed that after about 1 week the mylar settles down and all visible marks on the mylar disappears.
This happend to my Terminator 2 I mylared last week. There was a fair few visible marks where I had relifted the mylar to remove some air bubbles as I was sticking it down. I just left it with out trying to remove and now there gone.
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Just a little update this time:
1st two pics... I started doing the lamp inserts last night, starting with the lamp socket plate for the KISS letters in the centre of the PF. Just the usual solder the lamp barrel to the base trick, i wasnt sure how this would work considering the size of the metal plate, and getting enough heat into it for the solder to flow, but it worked well, just turned the heat right up on my soldering station and used a large chisel tip. then i soldered each wire directly to the centre conductor pin of each socket.
And a pic of the PF starting to go back together $#$
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And here's my latest toy.. that arrived today #*# #*#
My new Lyman tumbler, i had been waiting for this to arrive before i started polishing the metal parts, but i started without it, polishing some of the screw heads by hand :lol Now as i write this, some of the metal parts ( the ones i havent done by hand, and that were already clean) are being polished!!
It came with three bags of tumbler polishing media, im not sure what type of media it is, i'm currently using the walnut shell that David (firepower) sold me (thanks mate) ^^^
Can anyone tell me what kind of media this stuff is !@# looks like tiny rocks to me :lol
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looks like corn
This is all i use and works well. Digging the fragments out of screw heads or inside the chrome acorns is the only downside, but i think youll get this with any media
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Corn as Gav says. Purchased the same tumbler and came with corn cob media, works well especially with Flitz.
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Thanks for clearing that up for me guys ^^^ i thought that it may have been corn but wasnt sure and wanted to ask.
I'll have to buy some Flitz to use, seeing as i have read a lot of good things about it on AP, i'm trying the tumbler with some walnut shell and Novus 3 as i write this. will go and check how the parts are coming along a bit later.
BTW, i bough the tumbler here http://www.shooters.com.au just incase anyone wants to know (or cares) :lol
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I will send you some Flitz to try Mitch, this way you can compare results.
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that looks like untreated corncob - which is exactly what you want for normal polishing. You can use walnut shells, but they are really only used for heavy polishing.
Flitz is the only product I would ever use in a tumbler. You can try other products but you would need to double the tumbling time and they will not look nearly as good.
I use a dentist's pick set to remove the media from screws and use a magnet to remove small parts from the tumber.
I will guarantee that your new tumber will be your favorite tool in the garage.
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Where can you buy Flitz from as I am unable to find any??
I emailed the Yanks that make it, but never heard back from them!
Thanks in advance.
Bruce
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I saw Flitz for sale on an online gun shop in Canberra, never bought any but googling "flitz tumbling media :.au" produces
http://www.shooters.com.au/product.asp?pID=83406&cID=6055&c=152850 the same place Mitch bought his tumbler
I use a few caps of turtle car polish into the walnut shells - things came out pretty shiny to me.
Mitch, since you've now got corn cob, walnut shell and flitz how about some back to back tests of the different media and show results with pictures? I've heard lots of opinions and did a fair bit of web surfing when I was making my tumbler but never got any opinion that I thought was better that testiculation #@#
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yeah thats funny. I just bought my tumbler from them also. Must have missed the Flitz. @.@
Best go for another look.
Thanks
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I have used (and still use) Flitz and it does a very good job, but I find liquid Autosol does exactly the same job in the same time and is easier to obtain (Supercheap etc).
Cheers
Graeme
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Gday all, not much progress to report due to waiting on parts, and more importantly due to a back injury !!! i put up with the pain all week, and only decided to go to the doctor this morning, his instructions, no heavy lifting and no stooping or bending down, both of which mean no working on pins !!!
Anyway enough whinging #@# the new tumbler has been getting a good workout so i thought i'd post some pics, even though not much has been done. Anything that could fit into the tumbler was done :D some of the parts i found came up much nicer after a bit of a sand with 800 grit sandpaper and Windex, then they were polished in the tumbler. The screws came up nice and shiny, I ended up using autosol in the tumbler as i havent got any Flitz as yet to use, and let the parts tumble overnight, they came out pretty good!
When removing the parts from the underside of the pf, the slingshot kicker coil bracket broke (3rd pic) i was going to put a post in the parts wanted section for this item, but ended up raiding a bracket from my Wms superstar pf, since it was almost identical to the Bally item, so i decided to use that instead. Also the bumper yokes when removed either were badly worn or simply fell to bits, so these have been ordered, along with new flipper coils, coil sleeves, and various other items. I was unable to get new plungers and links for the flippers and slings so i'm making new links out of fibreglass PCB material, (slings are done already).
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A few more pics.. rebuilt slingshot mechs, polished ball trough comopnents, and flipper mechs minus coils and coil stops (both have been ordered), i've got parts coming from four different suppliers :D (ordered from whoever had what i was after)
Hopefully i'll be able to do a more exciting update soon, when i've recovered enough to be able to work on it and when my parts arrive
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I notice you have swapped the flipper bases - great idea, as often the threads are stripped. You should be able to get the flipper plunger and links locally, but I know PBR stock them separately, or in the flipper rebuild kits. The sling plunger / link are no longer available - but you can substitute them with similar later Bally/Williams.
I used Bally/Williams flipper plungers on the Galaxy restore, I'm not sure if they are suitable on Ballys (last page - http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=1256.90).
Take care of your back, Mitch - maybe work on the boards until things settle down. Bending over a cabinet is the worst thing you can do. Pinball will still be there after you have rested !
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I tore a disc in my back lifting pins as well. It took a few catscans and lots of pain killers and anti-inflammatorys plus 4 months to finally settle down.
I learnt my lesson. I reckon most members would probably have a similar story given our hobby is such a heavy dam hobby. ^&^
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I notice you have swapped the flipper bases - great idea, as often the threads are stripped. You should be able to get the flipper plunger and links locally, but I know PBR stock them separately, or in the flipper rebuild kits. The sling plunger / link are no longer available - but you can substitute them with similar later Bally/Williams.
I used Bally/Williams flipper plungers on the Galaxy restore, I'm not sure if they are suitable on Ballys (last page - http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=1256.90).
Take care of your back, Mitch - maybe work on the boards until things settle down. Bending over a cabinet is the worst thing you can do. Pinball will still be there after you have rested !
Well spotted Nino!! yes one of the flipper bases had stripped screws in the coil stops, they had smaller screws with nuts mounted underneath!! I tried PSPA for the bally flipper plungers and links (were listed on the website) but they were out of stock, same deal with the sling plungers which i thought might work. Never mind, i'm making my own flipper links, same as i had to for my Stern games. I have one NEW bally link to copy so it'll be sweet ^^^
And yes im trying to look after my back, back problems run in my family unfortunately.. mine isnt a slipped disc luckily, just strained muscles but its still a nuisance just the same.. come to think of it i think i probably hurt it lugging that Galaxy cabinet around the garage, was going to have that in undercoat last weekend, or so i thought, but it didnt happen..
being a muso and carrying big guitar amps around doesnt help either.. :lol
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Hi guys, although i should've be resting my back, it was driving me mad doing nothing to KISS ^&^ , so yesterday i decided to a couple of small jobs on the pf that wouldnt have me hurting myself anymore than i already have done. So with that in mind i took the spinners into the computer and scanned the artwork and cleaned up the images ready to make decals.
Next i took the spinners and stripped them to bare metal and sprayed them with some etch primer, after that had dried (acrylic so it dried quick, about an hour later) i rubbed the primer back with a scotchbrite, wiped them down with prepsol and hit them with some white acrylic and left them overnight to dry.
This morning i printed out my decals, applied them and trimmed them up then i put some mylar over them to protect the artwork. Then i fitted them to the PF
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And this afternoon i decided to have a go at remaking the broken plastic guide from the top lefthand side of the pf. In the 1st pic i have temporarily glued the old plastic so i could trace its shape onto some polycarbonate plastic i had leftover from making my Zac universe plastics set. Its slightly thicker than the original (3mm) so will be stronger than the original and should be less likely to warp from the heat from the lamps.
2nd pic, im using a soldering iron to melt the metal posts out of the old plastic so i could reuse them in my new plastic.
3rd pic shows how they look as the come out, tapered out at the top to hold them into the plastic
4th pic after i have straightened the taper out as much as i could with pliers so i could mount them into the new plastic guide.
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After i had cut out the new piece of plastic (cut out on a scroll saw then trimmed up with my dremel and a sanding bit) i drilled out the post holes, i then used a tapered bit in the Dremel to taper out the tops of the holes (didnt get a pic of this step) so i could bend the tops of the posts to grip into the plastic (peen them over) I wasnt quite sure how i would do this, first i used a drill bit and a hammer to push the taper back out to grip the plastic which worked but looked a little rough. In the end i used long nosed pliers as shown in the 1st pic, twisting them inside the metal post to hopefully push the metal out a bit, it seemed to work pretty well. This step isnt really necessary as once they are screwed down they wont go anywhere :D
2nd pic the finished plastic after the edges had been sanded and polished, started with 80 grit sandpaper, then 180, 280, and finally 800grit wet&dry and Windex, followed by a polish with Novus to finish them off.
3rd pic , the guide installed on the pf
last pic... i decided to do the righthand side one as well :D
i had already polished up and fitted the righthand side one as it wasnt broken, but was all yellowed and crappy looking compared to the newly remade left side one
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Great results, Mitch - well done. I'll have to keep that tip in mind when I start my KISS restores !
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Nice Work #*#
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Love reading your restores very inspiring well done
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Mitch
Wow its looking really good I love the decal for the spinners and it good that your tumbler is getting a work out. I recon that is a good investment
Lots of work but great results I hope your back is coming good These game are heavy arn,t they
Well done Howzat ^^^
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thats looking so good mitch,fathom man will have to see it as I bet it looks better in reallife.Do you think this is your best restore to date.good luck on the back,take it EZ bud.once again great work keep it going
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Thanks for the kind words guys
thats looking so good mitch,fathom man will have to see it as I bet it looks better in reallife.Do you think this is your best restore to date.good luck on the back,take it EZ bud.once again great work keep it going
Cam; yes im pretty happy with how its turning out although there are a few bits that i wish had turned out better (im my own worst critic :lol ) In all honesty, it would be a coin toss between your Travel Time pf and this one as to which one would be the best (PF) restore i've done. You can decide for yourself which is better next time you're here :D
Both are WAY better (IMHO) than the Wildfyre pf i did the work on! i was actually a bit disappointed with that one, though Martin (the owner) seems happy enough, showing it off to his mates and visitors.
Oh yeah.. my Stern Dracula which was my first extensive pf repaint still remains one of my better efforts, i almost forgot about that one :D it was my #2 holygrail pin for a lot of years so i pulled out all the stops on that one too when i did the restore on it.
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Great work Mitch, love reading your restoration threads
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Quick Update:
I've been busy with a few bits n pieces on this pf.. rebuilt the flippers and bumpers, 1st couple of pics show the bumper switches that needed attention, 1st pic old and new bumper switch spoon, notice the hole worn in the plastic bumper spoon!! believe it or not, the game actually played with it like this, didnt notice this until i assembled the bumper bodies and the stem on the bumper skirt went thru the hole :lol so i bought 4 new switch spoons and rebuilt the switches as well.
3rd pic shows the rebuilt flipper mechs. new coils and sleeves, new coil stops, as well as new nylon bushes and springs. I ended up fabricating my own flipper links from fibreglass PCB material, two pieces superglued together to double the thickness to make them last longer. The plungers are the original ones. I have done this on most of my machines to replace worn linkages and it works well.
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I spent some time over the weekend rebuilding the drop targets. All of the smaller metal pieces, small enough to go in the tumbler were given a quick degrease and chucked into the tumbler, i tried the walnut shell this time (as i thought these parts could benefit from a more coarser media) with some Flitz that tonyt sent me to try (thanks Tony)!! ^^^ I let the parts polish for about 4 or 5 hours and the came out pretty nice i thought.
the larger pieces i polished by hand. first i gave them a sand with 800 grit wet&dry and Windex, dried them off then polished them with Autosol and cloth, then reassembled everything, completed with brand new targets. The switches were cleaned up as well as there was some rust on the actuating blades, which i cleaned up with a wire wheel in my Dremel.
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And finally a few more pics.. nearly done $#$ $#$
just the plastics to go back on, the apron to be repainted and decalled with some Pinball Rescue decals, and a few light sockets to be repaired under the pf.
Will post some more pics when everything is finished!
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Inspirational stuff! You have certainly treated this one right!
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Looking excellent Mitch ^^^ . Just imagine playing that 1st game after all your hard work.
BTW.. How do you remove the fliipper plunger links from the plunger and then reattach?
I need to remove the links for my Zac EM and refit them on a Williams fllipper kit, as the ones on the Williams kit are too short and I need to put a new kit in this machine. I haven't tried doing this before.
Cheers
Dave
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Simply awesome Mitch!! #*#
Keep up the great work, i always enjoy your write-ups ^^^
Timbo
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Thanks for the positive comments guys... muchly appreciated ^^^
Dave; the flipper links come off pretty easy, i use a small pin punch, slightly smaller then the diameter of the roll pin holding the link into the plunger and a hammer and tap them out. I sit the plunger onto the jaws of a vice, with the jaws opened just enough to cradle the plunger to tap the roll pin out. it only has to come out enough to allow the link to be removed. Then just hammer the pin back in when installing the new links.. easy peasy ^^^
i went to do the same thing with my Zac Universe, change the flipper links, i was going to use Wms plungers and links but the links were the wrong length @.@
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Looks awsome Mitch it's no wonder IRS such a collectable pin when they look this good restored.
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Thanks for the positive comments guys... muchly appreciated ^^^
Dave; the flipper links come off pretty easy, i use a small pin punch, slightly smaller then the diameter of the roll pin holding the link into the plunger and a hammer and tap them out. I sit the plunger onto the jaws of a vice, with the jaws opened just enough to cradle the plunger to tap the roll pin out. it only has to come out enough to allow the link to be removed. Then just hammer the pin back in when installing the new links.. easy peasy ^^^
i went to do the same thing with my Zac Universe, change the flipper links, i was going to use Wms plungers and links but the links were the wrong length @.@
Thanks for that detailed explanation Mitch . ^^^ Will give it a go soon
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Gee Mitch this is looking so good you could put it on ebay and ask for about $9000 like the other guy's.
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Gee Mitch this is looking so good you could put it on ebay and ask for about $9000 like the other guy's.
thanks for the compliment Spurr ^^^ i always appreciate the kind words from other AP members of my resto work.. means i must be doing something right :lol
you wont be seeing THIS machine on eGay... NEVER *.* *.* and even if i did decide to sell (which will NEVER happen btw) it would be sold for a more realistic price than other KISS machines that are put up for sale.
I've been saying to people 'i'll be buried with this machine" :lol
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Time for another update; :D
I just finished the apron, complete with new decals from Pinball Rescue.
A few before pics, showing how the apron looked before i started on it.. not as bad as some i've seen but definitely could be improved.
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more pics, 1st two after the black had been resprayed on. First though i stripped it back to bare metal, and hit it with some etch primer, and sanded it back smooth with 400 wet&dry and water before the black went on.
And then some pics of it done.. there is a slight bit of milkiness in it which should dry out of it after a couple of day ( the decals went on this morning).
And one of it refitted to the pf. the PF is finished now.. the plastics will be refitted later on. Now time for the cabinet!!
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CABINET RESTORE:
I started on the cab a couple of weeks ago, first thing i did was to trace the stenciled art on the cab. Next i had to do a few repairs to the cab, the front panel was separating so this was repaired first, i separated the corner join further so i could get plenty of glue in, then clamped it up, and put a couple of screws in for good measure.
In the last pic here im regluing the ply which was separating along the bottom of the sides.
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More pics.. There were a few spots where sections of ply were missing completely, having split away from the cab, which i had to repair. In the 1st two pics, im using Builders Bog to replace the missing ply. I clamped a piece of wood to the inside edge with a piece of paper wrapped around it to stop the bog from sticking to the wood i had clamped there as a guide. Then i simply filled the space where the ply was missing with builders bog! simple and effective me thinks :D In the 1st pic the bog had dried sufficiently for me to remove the clamps. Doing this i found t was best to remove the clamps and wood guides BEFORE the Builders Bog had complelely dried, that way the paper came away easy without sticking to the Builders Bog. 2nd pic shows a section i did this way at the bottom front of the cab, dried and sanded smooth.
For the front section (3rd pic) which had pieces of ply completely gone i decided to cut and glue in a new piece (4th pic).
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And here is the new piece glued in and planed level with the rest of the front panel.
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The back pedestal section where the backbox bolts on was separating from the cab, and here is how i chose to repair it. It was late at night when i did this, so i used what i had lying around, ie glued and screwed a piece of ply inside the cab, glued, clamped and screwed fro the outside, as can be seen in the first couple of pics. I filled the screwholes in the back later on while i was filling dents and gouges in the cab.
And last couple of pics of after all of the repairs had been done, and had been sanded back smooth with 80 grit, 160, 280 and finally 400 grit ready for undercoat.
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More pics, first couple of coats of undercoat, still a bit see through in places, at this stage i filled a few spots i had missed with some Polyfilla "Skim Coat" and let that dry. Then i sanded filler smooth with some 240 grit sandpaper. After that i gave the cab about another two or three coats of undercoat and and left it to dry for a few days before sanding.
When dry i sanded it back with 240 grit then 400 grit, ready for the white basecoat. I used Dulux Vivid white enamel. last couple of pic show where im at with it at the moment. The basecoat was sprayed on on Friday, i'll allow a few more days before starting doing the stencils.
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Nice work. Mitch - coming up a treat ^^^
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looking good Mitch @@*
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QUICK UPDATE:
I got a start on the stenciling, and thought id add a few pics of what ive done so far.
1st pic the stencil cut out ready for the red/orange colour.
2nd pic, after a couple coats of Dulux "Volcano Orange" which matched fairly well to the colour hidden under the legs and coin door frame. I did this in five LIGHT coats, waiting 15 -20 mins between coats and removed the stencil 30 mins after the last coat.
And the end result after the stencil removed.
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more pics, right hand side being done. I did this this evening, and the other side last night.
there ended up being a couple of spots of slight paint bleed but they touched up nicely. pretty happy with how its turning out so far *%*
Will do the black (and the orange on the front) on the weekend... time and weather permitting!!
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This cab is going to look Fantastic Mitch .
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I reallylove the way you make your own stencils was going to buy some for firepower but really think I should make my own now
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Quick progress update:
Got the black done on the cab now.. coming together slowly but surely #*#
I cut out the stencil for the black yesterday (1st pic)... and boy what a pain in the arse that was to do ^&^ lots of fine detail in their faces that was tricky to cut out of the cardboard without damaging it.
so yesterday afternoon i decided to start doing the black. Once again several light coats were done and the stencil removed after about 30 mins after the final coat was done.
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And this morning i flipped the cab over and did the other side, and here is how it looks so far.
Despite being very meticulous with weighing down the stencil it DID get a slight bit of overspray under the stencil in places and a couple of small touchups were needed, but overall it turned out pretty good. The overspray was taken off and made to look a lot better with a polish with Novus 2 and a cotton bud in the small areas that needed it. Novus 2 works really well for this, i used to use Re-po paint doctor but found that it dulled the finish, which doesnt happen with Novus.
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Excellent result Mitch ^^^ . And I think I am going to have hassles with my stencils for Gulfstream .. yours would be much harder
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Some more pics, with the front done. Just have to repaint the pedestal section where the backbox bolts on, and clean out the inside and i can start putting it back together #*# but i will give the stencil paint a few days to dry properly first *%*
Next on the agenda, backbox repaint.. stay tuned!!
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Hey Mitch. Just showed your cab pics to my wife. They blew her away . *%* She couldn't believe you achieved that level of detail with cardboard stencils. $#$
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Absolutely brilliant @@*
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Top job Mitch ()
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Awesome !
As always, Mitch - Love your work ^^^
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Looking good....
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wow,can't wait to play it.looking so good Mitch ,homzie should be watching this thead.Going to the pinball auction in port? that trolley looks the part,nice big wheels
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Bloody awsome Mitch. All that wot a lot of patience and son cardboard.... Looked at firepowers artwork today and that's as far as I got.... You really are a master at pinball restoration
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wow,can't wait to play it.looking so good Mitch ,homzie should be watching this thead.Going to the pinball auction in port? that trolley looks the part,nice big wheels
I was wondering how long it would be before you noticed the trolley Cam && it sure has come in handy #@# #@#
And thanks everyone for the kind words, im pretty happy with how its coming along. I've got the backbox in undercoat now, so it shouldnt be too much longer before another update.. maybe tomorrow!
I've got a lot on my plate at the moment, with this one, the Galaxy repaint that is nearly done, and now i have a Twilight Zone that have to repair for a local guy here.. told him that the Galaxy had to be finished first and he was cool with that luckily.. too much to do ^&^ ^&^ ^&^
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Great job mate ^^^
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He's the master!
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Really nice <.> <.>
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Another update:
backbox now has the basecoat done, finished yesterday afternoon it is now ready for stenciling when the paint has had sufficient time to cure properly.. hopefully this coming weekend!
But first, of course tracings of the stenciled designs were done before i did anything to the backbox. Pics below.
Now normally i do two separate tracings (one for each colour/section), stick it down onto the white cardboard i use and cut through the tracing paper and into the cardboard with the scalpel. But for this i used one piece of tracing paper for the two colours, and traced each section onto its own cardboard piece with carbon paper between the tracing paper and the cardboard.. in the 2nd pic you can see a sheet of A4 carbon paper under the tracing paper.
last pic shows the finished stencils ready to use :D
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Next the necessary repairs to the woodwork were done.. not much was needed apart from filling some missing chunks from the front backglass surround section, the rest was still pretty solid and in good condition. pics show some of the repaired bits on the front surround. I didnt get a lot of pics of the rest of the work done, since not a lot was needed.
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More pics.. the undercoat.. done last weekend
I wont go into a lot of detail here.. not necessary since its all done the same as the cab :D
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And finally some pics of the backbox basecoat done.. and ready for the stencils to go on this coming weekend #*#
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And this afternoon i decided to refit the siderails onto the cabinet. First though i regrained them, as they had a few scratches in them i started off with 180 grit wet&dry paper and Windex, followed with 320 grit, then a green scotchbrite followed by a polish with some Autosol and cloth before fitting them back onto the cabinet with new twist nails. The last lot of twist nails i bought were too long and would have gone thru the cabinet, so i had to grind each nail shorter and grind a new point on them before using them.
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WOW !! thats unreal.... Nice job!!.....
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I managed to get some more done over the weekend... some pics of the backbox with the red being done, and how it turned out. Should be able to get the black done in the next day or so.
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more pics..
I've started fitting parts back into the cabinet. The tumbler got a real good workout over the weekend with all of the screws and small metal fittings and mechanisms from the cab, including the tilt mech pictured. I even gave the plywood tilt panel a sand and a couple of coats of clear while the parts were in the tumbler :D
and some pics of the knocker assembly, as well as the ventilation grille from the neck where the backbox sits.. this was a nice shade of rust so it was left to soak in Ranex overnight, then rinsed off and dried, and given a coat of etch primer, and finally sprayed with some dark grey Plasti-Kote brand hammer tone paint i found in Bunnings which seems to match the original shade of grey the grille was painted in well, which i found underneath where it mounted inside the neck opening when i removed it.. the only area not rusted.
I'm thinking i'll spray the legs in this colour as well !@# not sure if its the right colour or not, but im guessing the grey i found on the grille from the neck would've been the same colour the legs were done in... Thoughts please from someone who might know !@# !@#
the legs on this machine werent original, it had rusty chrome legs when i got it, 27 inch Gtb legs on the front and 28 1/2 inch in the rear.. i dont know at what stage of its life someone had put these on *!@
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just a few more pics for now.. with the shooter assembly reinstalled. The chrome had a few spots of rust on it that cleaned up pretty well with some Ranex and steel wool, and a polish with Auto Sol. the plunger rod and outer spring are brand new. Note also i have given the coin box area a light coat of white paint to make it a bit tidier looking when the coindoor will be opened :D I used some flat white enamel for this, slightly thinned out with white spirits so it would soak into the wood a little bit and not be too glossy.
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Thanks for sharing this amazing restoration. Very nice work.
I really like how the tilt panel looks when cleared. ^^^
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Great work as usual Mitch @@*
Really enjoying this thread, you must be hanging out to play the first game I'd imagine,
looking forward to more updates.
Cheers
Dave
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Very nice Mitch !
I think I have a can of auto paint that is an exact match for the legs. I'll source it tomorrow and report back.
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Very nice Mitch !
I think I have a can of auto paint that is an exact match for the legs. I'll source it tomorrow and report back.
thanks Nino, that would be much appreciated ^^^
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Awesome job ! ^^^ #*#
Always appreciated your work Mitch.
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As always Mitch top shelf all the way ^^^
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Mitch - I cannot recall why I picked this paint, it might have been a RGP thread from years ago. I'm told it is the equivalent of the USA paint
Powerplus "Spray and brush system"
GUNMETAL
Product code PJ9190
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Power-Plus-Touch-Up-Paint-Gunmetal-PJ9190.aspx?pid=1229#Description
I bought it from Supercheap auto. I bought a small test spray can 150g. I never tried it, but I was told I had to use the Powerplus primer.
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thanks for that Nino ^^^ i was in Supercheap yesterday actually but didnt have a lot of time to look in the touchup paints section @.@
As i mentioned this game had the wrong size legs (well TWO of them were wrong) so i had a scrounge around through my stash of legs and found some legs the correct style and size. I actually sprayed a couple of them in the dark grey hammertone paint i bought so i could see how they looked. The colour is a dark grey, almost like gunmetal colour. they came up pretty good.
I'll now have a look again in Supercheap and see if i can find the Power Plus gunmetal and see how that compares. If i like it i'll strip the legs i have painted already and redo them in the gunmetal grey. I actually like the Power Plus paints, i use them quite a lot for pinball restoration, eg.. playfields, aprons and even backglasses!
And BTW thanks everyone for the kind words so far!! always appreciated ^^^
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HA HA HA HA HA HA HA Just noticed you didnt stuff up your backbox like i did %.% %.% %.% %.% %.%
I made up a stencil from a photo off the net then simply flipped it over looked really good till i tried to squeeze tha bally bit into the backwards flames !!@ no one has noticed yet LMFAO
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Fantastic job Mitch. Looks brilliant.
J.D.
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Hi Guys, Cabinet repainting is now finished! $#$ $#$
I got the black 'Bally" logo stenciled onto the backbox, finished it a few hours ago, Did the other side yesterday afternoon, and left it til today to do the opposite side.
I have now moved the cab and backbox into the house in preparation for reassembly. Of course I just HAD to sit the backbox onto the cab for a look see, and get a pic for you all to see :D all of the screws and fittings from the backbox are in the tumbler (anything that would fit in) being polished. they will be left in overnight.
next on the 'to do' list will be the coin door rebuild and the light board for the backbox, which will be repainted and refitted soon as i get time.
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#*#
Nice work mitch - That's how you repaint a KISS cabinet !
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Great job mate ^^^
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Looks Excellent Mitch ^^^
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#*#
Nice work mitch - That's how you repaint a KISS cabinet !
Thanx Nino, thats a great compliment from the guru of all things KISS related!!
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Just catching up with this restore now,
Mitch - that cabinet looks perfect #*#. The stencilling looks superb! Keep the updates coming,
Timbo
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Time for another update:
I've been pretty busy lately with this one, plus the Galaxy repaint, as well as starting a shop out of a Twilight Zone, which you may have noticed in the background of some of the pics.. no its NOT mine *.* *.* PLUS now i have a Rockola juke box to do for another guy.. no rest for the wicked it seems ^&^
Anyway a few pics. Some of the coin door bolts before and after polishing/buffing. i did these by spinning them in an electric drill and sanding and then polishing with Autosol and rag.
And a couple of the coindoor being regrained. I used a scotchbrite and Windex, i took the 3rd pic when it was half done.
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more pics. reinstalled into the game and being put back together #*#
Most of the parts had a layer of rust on them so they were soaked in Ranex, cleaned up then polished or painted where needed. Anything that didnt polish up nice was given a light coat of silver hammered metal paint, like the metal plate on the back of the door that everything bolts onto.
All the small parts were tumbled.
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more pics, coindoor fully reassembled :D
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Here's what the lockdown bar assembly looked like before and afteras you can see it was pretty nasty!! This was given the wire brush and Ranex treatment, sanded and then polished up with Autosol as best as i could. It's still a bit pitted unfortunately.. i might even remove it again and paint it yet.. havent decided !@#
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Next i decided to re do the game setting cards in the backbox and cabinet.
i found the images for the backbox cards on Inkochnito's website so i downloaded them and printed them out, and covered them with mylar to protect them and stapled them into the backbox.
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a few more, these ones in the cabinet i scanned the originals and cleaned the images up in photoshop before printing them.
I even decided to redo the manufacturers certificate just inside the coindoor, complete with serial number :D :lol
2nd pic shows the crappy torn original and a test print on paper.
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And finally a couple of pics of the game going back together $#$
more updates coming soon!!
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Simply stunning work you are doing on this one Mitch ^^^ ^^^ ^^^
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Great work Mitch ^^^
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Really Nice Mitch. I see it has migrated into the house !
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Brilliant Mitch. well done.
J.D.
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Really Nice Mitch. I see it has migrated into the house !
Yepp Nino *%* It has migrated into my lounge room already for reassembly %.% This machine was always destined to be in the house rather than the garage *%*
Since im here i might as well post some more pics :D
This afternoon i repaired and repainted the light board out of the back box. Notice in the 2nd pic the piece of chip board broken off.. or as i call it, SHITboard :lol :lol I removed this whole piece and cut out a new piece out of MDF and glued and nailed it on.
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After i had fitted the new lamp surround piece, i then i gave the whole board a sand with 180 grit paper, and gave it a few coats of White Knight satin white.
After it had dried sufficiently to handle (a few hours) i fitted it into the backbox (patient bastard arent i??) %.% %.%
The screws for the display holders and the latches are in the tumbler being polished as i type this, should be nice n shiny in the morning :D
next item on the 'to do' list is to rebuild the power supply board. Wont be too much longer now!!
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Well its starting to really come together now $#$ so i thought it was time for another update.
1st couple of pics of the power supply having been rebuilt, using new bridge rectifiers with heatsinks added, all pin headers replaced and new 1N4007 diodes for the display high voltage. Also i am replacing connector housings where needed, if they were burnt looking, and the freshly de-rusted and repainted transformer shield.
And a pic of the solenoid driver board installed, with new filter cap for the 5 volts and all grounding upgrades etc done as per Clay's repair guides. Notice someone has replaced the two small transistors in the high voltage regulator circuit, using TO220 cased transistors with pieces of aluminium angle mounted to them for heat dissipation on place of the original 2n3440 transistors. I may change these back to original later on if i can find the small heatsinks that fit the original transistors somewhere..
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Here is a little mod that i did on my six million$man to help take the stress off the ground return line connector pins back to the power supply. I just run a few wires from some of the SCR ground traces back to a crimp connector that screws under one of the board mounting screws and gets grounded to the backbox aluminium ground shield. This worked well on 6m$m, making the lamps brighter so i thought id do the same for KISS *%*
And a pic of the boards all installed in the backbox :D
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Must be getting close for the first game Mitch, looking good. ^^^
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More pics.. i had to change some switch caps under the pf, someone had replaced some of the ceramic caps with polyester (greencap) capacitors as can be seen in the 1st pic, which would have been ok had they been the correct value, which they weren't!! so i went through all the switches (standup targets and bumper switches) that were supposed to have the caps and fitted new ceramic caps of the correct value.. well the originals were .05uF so used .047uF, which is close enough. I had already changed two of them in the 1st pic (the two small yellow ones).
When refitting the boards i tested the power supply first making sure it worked before hooking up anything else to it, everything tested ok so i hooked up the solenoid driver and tested the voltages out of it before connecting the other boards. It too was all good so i connected the other boards and fired it up.. and its ALIVE AND WELL (2nd pic) #*#
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And tonight i fitted the pf! but on powering it up with the pf hooked up, all the GI lamps were dim and the GI fuse blew a few seconds later, meaning i had a shorted GI socket on the pf ^&^ so after about 10 or 15 minutes of swearing at it :lol and searching i found the culprit.. i had messed up with one of my jumper wires connecting the centre pin of one of the sockets, and accidentally hooked it to the ground side of the socket &^& Anyhoo after correcting that little stuffup it powered up again nice n bright #*#
Still have a few things to do before its finished, i need to repin the lamp driver connectors for the pf lamps as some of them are a bit dodgey, and im waiting on the new flipper buttons to arrive i have ordered, and clean and straighten the plastics.. Plus i want to do some more work on the backglass, and tidy it up some more, will post pics and info of that when i get around to it *%*
but its getting close now!!
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Looking good Mitch - What a transformation !
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Looking great Mitch . ^^^ Looking forward to seeing how the BG turns out
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Thanks for the kind words guys ^^^
this afternoon i repinned ALL of the lamp connectors on the lamp driver board, so no more lamps going out!!
And i also straightened and polished the plastics and fitted them to the pf. I used new nylon acorn nuts to secure them instead of crappy rubber fasteners like it had when i got the machine.
some pics.. getting very close now.. i was tempted to fit the old flipper buttons just so i could play a few games :D but i have decided to wait, and not rush things *%*
So im just waiting on the new flipper buttons, and need to do a few more touchups on the backglass and i'll be done #*#
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WOW!! Nice work ^^^ @@*
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Mitch
you are very patience good to see it looks really good Howzat #*#
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Well peoples... she's up and running, and playable again, the new flipper buttons arrived today from RTBB, so i wasted no time in fitting them when i got home from work!! but first i had to overcome a few switch issues before i could have a proper game. I had several rollover switches that were intermittent and no amount of cleaning would make them work reliably ^&^ In the end i added .047uF caps across all the rollover switches, which seemed to eliminate the 95% of the problems i was having.. there's still one of the top rollover switches that plays up very occasionally, but after adding the caps and playing about a dozen games, its all working pretty sweet now $#$
Also i DID reseat the connector on the MPU for the pf switch matrix, which cured another problem i had with the drop targets, so i still have to re-pin the switch matrix connectors, and possibly replace the pin headers on the MPU, which will be done soon.
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A couple more pics.. Next will be some more backglass work after the switch connectors are done. But for the moment i'll play a few more games, and sit back and admire it :D :lol
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Well done Mitch have really enjoyed this thread looks fantastic
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Simply outstanding Mitch !
"Best KISS I've seen in a while" - Just to quote our eBay friend !
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Fantastic, a very very good end result there!
I guess it's a keeper!!
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Fantastic, a very very good end result there!
I guess it's a keeper!!
yes it is most definitely a keeper *%* *%* *%* *%*
I'm not quite done yet, just a bit more of a tidy up of the backglass, its problem areas are not really that obvious in the pics i have posted. I will post better pics later on showing the areas of concern, and how i intend on repairing them... before and after. It'll never look like a new glass again, but i intend to do what i can to make it more presentable. Ultimately i'd like to find a better glass (within Australia if at all possible). if i cant find one then i'll live with it as it is. As i have stated above this game is absolutely a keeper that will NEVER be sold, so there is no need for the game to look absolutely 100% perfect.. you wont be seeing this one on eGay *.* *.* *.* *.*
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Nice work mate, looks great ^^^
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Great job Mitch. You never cease to amaze!
J.D.
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Awesome job, I have learnt alot just reading this whole thread - thanks for all the detail.
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can not wait to see it ,for real,looks great Mitch.
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Thanks guys.. muchly appreciated ^^^
Im not quite done with this one yet, i still, as i said before want to do some more to the BG. Will post more pics and info when done.
i have been playing it a fair bit, and after sorting out the couple of switch issues it had its playing REAL NICE $#$ plays nice and fast too ^^^
the only other problem has been the CRAP #47 lamps i put in.. id say about a dozen of them blew in about the first ten games i played (i lost count of how many i've put in so far) ^.^ must have been a bad batch of lamps, i've bought several boxes of 100 lately, and never had a problem until this box i used in KISS ^&^ And yes i have checked the voltage before anyone asks.. all good.. its the shitty chinese lamps that are the problem *%*
Anyway now i have that off my chest :lol :lol i have racked up over 50 games now and the lamps are still going so i guess im finally weeding out the bad ones :lol i'm off to play a few more games and listen to some KISS *%*
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+1
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+1
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plays fast as, Mitch,it's a keeper for sure.best kiss I've seen or played.It just brings any game to life if it plays fast ,has great power in the flippers.wish I could get my T2 flippers that good !!!
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thanks for posting your story
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Hi all.. over the last few days i have been doing "phase one" of the backglass tidy up..
Some pics below of what i had to attack with phase one.. the yellow section across the bottom with all the "tilt" "game over" etc text behind it.
Nothing really groundbreaking done here.. same deal as my Dracula backglass resto i did a couple of years ago, and QuickDraw which i posted recently.
Pics show the lifted and cracked paint i wanted to fix. As usual i will be fixing what i can to make the glass more presentable, and leaving what i cant alone. this area is one of two areas on the glass i will be dealing with, which i considered pretty easy to tidy up, and make look decent.
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First thing i had to do was to carefully cut and scrape out the old yellow paint, but not before taking pics of the text that i could use to recreate the text later as reverse printed decals, same as i did on my Dracula BG. Again i used a scalpel blade heated in a flame to cut along where it met with the mirrored border, then with a small scraper blade i removed the old paint. I find that it helps if i have a fairly strong light shining up under the glass as im cutting, it actually can be seen through the silver mask, so i can see where i'm cutting.
Notice too that i put black marks on the lift channel and back of the glass itsself so i could later line up the text mask decals in their correct positions.
After i had the yellow scraped out and had cleaned the glass with windex and some paper towels, i sprayed some Triple Thick on to seal off the area to be painted, to eliminate the possibility of spraypaint bleeding under the surrounding original paint.
After the TT had dried i sprayed on a few light, even coats of yellow acrylic, followed with some flat white acrylic primer after the yellow had dried, to brighten the yellow a bit and to even out the glow from the lamps when backlit. As i usually do, i placed a desk lamp underneath the glass shining up through the glass as i sprayed, to give me an idea of how evenly the paint was going on.
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More pics, 1st one showing the front view of the glass after the yellow has been done.
2nd and 3rd pics show the text decals i made, and the decals applied to the backside of the glass.
And last pic of the silver paint sprayed on. I actually did a couple of light coats of silver, followed by some black, then more silver so it would block out the light completely where it wasnt wanted.. worked pretty well *%*
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more pics.. i did a few touchups in the orange (1st pic) where it had fine cracks through it where i had stuck the peeling paint back down originally, that i wanted to be able to block out the lights from shining thru. I havent done the silver over these touchups as yet, as i only did this tonight and i want it to fully dry first. I used waterbased acrylic for these bits.
And finally a couple pf pics of the glass back in the game and switched on!! As i just said the silver is yet to be done over the waterbased acrylic touchups, so some light DOES still get through.. will be done tomorrow...
Stay tuned for phase two :D
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worked a treat, Mitch - well done ^^^
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Awesome work there Mitch ^^^
Really enjoy following the BG touchups and seeing the end results.
Cheers
Dave
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Nice one again Mitch ^^^
I have learnt heaps from reading your BG restores .. almost ready to try some of your techniques on my own glasses now .. still building up the last bit of courage *%*
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Amazing stuff Mitch. Well Done.
J.D.
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That is an amazing amount of time and effort your putting in there
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Hi guys i just thought id add some before and after pics :D
As i stated before im still not quite finished just yet, i want to do some more with the bg, but that'll have to wait until after the big move back to Port Macquarie ^&^ so all projects have been suspended indefinitely.
KISS will be the last game to be dismantled and packed away.. Its still working great, having had nearly 400 games played in the last few months, it get played a LOT *%* *%*
to put it into perspective my Stern Dracula has been restored for over two years now and it has had less than 300 games played in total in that time frame!!
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more pics
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and last but not least....
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absolutely fantastic mate!!! gee that machine brings back memories ^^^
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I went searching for this thread to add a couple of pics of the final piece of the Kiss puzzle, the new CPR repro backglass i purchased a few months ago (thanks Nino!).. after finally having time to fit it!! It only took me ten years to get one %.%
Have to say though i was a little disappointed with the mask layer which lets too much light through in the places where it shouldn't.. its most noticeable around the "ball in play"and "game over" text etc.. apart from that i'm pretty happy with it, as its WAY better than what i had with the lifted and cracked original.
So with the new glass the game is now complete $#$ I've sold the original to my band mate who wants to frame it for his living room wall, to recoup some of the money spent on the new one.
(https://i.postimg.cc/65KJwjnh/20200823-090734.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vD0StvP1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/SNG0K6Gb/20200823-091120.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D8mpjbDx)