The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: turbo27 on May 18, 2014, 02:33:24 PM
-
This is my first Pinball restoration. My aim is to try and do it right, but also remembering the experience and skill levels are well.....I'm trying
The machine plays well with no known faults.
Considering the machine used to be commercially leased the playfield is in good condition. Since owning I have spent time cleaning and maintaining areas assessable. Now that the playfield is removed, I plan on not stripping, but just cleaning all over and replacing any broken plastics - and yes the sling shot covers are green - not my doing!
Cabinet is another story. Decals faded as usual, numerous chips and marks. Legs are poor.
-
I honestly thought I was going to buy new legs - they really looked crap
But thanks to advice in AP
Rust convertor bath, with a wire brush and steel wool. Paint scrapper carefully picking off raised rubbish.
Did this about 3 times, before washing under the hose, then a good hand polish with Brasso, finally a coating of Mr Sheen
I can't believe how well they turned out
-
It was only after removing everything from the cabinet that I realised how bad it was.
Check out the angle iron on the leg side of the cabinet picture.
The repair must have been carried out with the machine intact of playfield. Placing the straight edge along the body showed a huge bow out. Removed screws and re clamped the cabinet and glued. There was also damage to the bottom side where the base slots into. I made up a timber fillet and glued it into place. Planned off after glue dried.
Most of the corners were pretty good and sturdy. I was able to get away with injecting glue into any cracks/openings and clamp. A hypodermic syringe with a large gauge needle did the trick !
Bolt head taken back to bare metal. A wire brush in a drill chuck on the lathe made light work of it.
Cabinet filled and sanded.
Replaced the piece of timber where the glass plastic channel screws into.
-
Gun stripped and cleaned, primed and now black acrylic top.
Same for bolts
Clear top coat to come.
-
You may have read the issues I've had with the prime and fill of the cabinet.
Needless to say, second time more lucky. Different paint suppler
It's good but not perfect. I think more time on the spray gun will do me wonders. With the fill I found it was a fine line from over filling and making it run, to just not getting it to cover imperfections.
I used 400 grit wet n dry paper. There are still a few minor grain lines and marks I was just unable to perfect. Again practice makes perfect.
Having said that the cabinet now has a lot of primer/filler on it. What was left after the miserable results from the first low quality supply and now the SCA supply.
-
This brings me up to date.
Yesterday I applied the semi-gloss acrylic to the cabinet. 50:50 mix of paint to thinners.
I applied two lighter coats, covering up all the undercoat and then very lightly sanded with 1500 grit. Surface air blown and felt really smooth.
Another coat all over paying particular attention to edges and corners not covered by decals.
As I posted yesterday the final result left small pimples on the surface. Now these were fine and minor with some areas feeling slight abrasive.
After advice, and still having a small amount of paint remaining, I very lightly sanded with 1500 grit, air blown and wiped with a clean rag. Surface was really smooth. I thinned the paint to maybe 40:60, ie more thinners, and applied a final coat.
Well I think I'm there, surface feels really good, and looks well.......better around the edges where it will be visible.
Decals to come soon!
-
Jumping in with a quick tip here. The repro artwork around the front and side edges does not line up, so the solution is to align the top section and ignore the lower section which will be hidden by the legs.
Pictorial representation to show the difference.
(The leg will cover the misaligned artwork on the lower section.)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll153/pinball1974/Indiana%20Jones%20in%20progress/99a3df17-5fc3-4e8a-9ae1-bf3852fb30fa_zps0b1b8fc2.jpg)
-
Thanks, I saw a youtube video of an installation of the Indy decals, and he highlighted exactly that prob.
I certainly have picked a difficult decal to start with &^&
Nice tip, appreciate it
-
Thanks, I saw a youtube video of an installation of the Indy decals, and he highlighted exactly that prob.
I certainly have picked a difficult decal to start with &^&
Nice tip, appreciate it
Yes, apparently it was like that from factory and Ballypinball never fixed it when he had the repros made.
Do the front decal first then align the sides.
You have some margin for error in applying the side decals as they can be adjusted (raised or lowered to align) a half cm or so. This is because once the siderails are applied they cover a significant portion of the top section of the artwork so you have some room to adjust up or down to suit.
-
Some great tips there! Are you going to install the decals dry or wet?
-
99% sure I will do the dry method.
Really don't like the idea of wetting adhesive stickers, but having said that youtube posts sure seem ok
Will keep you posted and take pics as I go
-
Great to see a member attempt this level of work. It is great fun, and there's always something new to learn. Great tip on lining up the cabinet decals !
Just a tip on painting - Don't sand the cabinet at all inbetween topcoats. Sanding with 1500 grit will not be enough "bite" for the final coat. Just keep painting, and then sand at the very end. I mix 60:40 thinners to paint on topcoats. with a hand span distance between the gun and the surface. Never paint in direct sunlight, but to dry, put it out into the sunlight. You can lower the gun to 35 PSI if you have the pimples. Pimples can also happen on a hot day as the paint atomizes before it hits the surface.
-
99% sure I will do the dry method.
Really don't like the idea of wetting adhesive stickers, but having said that youtube posts sure seem ok
Will keep you posted and take pics as I go
A tip on decals.. they are not a solid sheet of polymer. they are in fact slightly porous. I apply large sheets of vinyl 1200mm wide to sheets of aluminium composite panel ( has a colourbond finish) all the time. A standard sheet is 1220X2440mm. Vinyl comes in 1220mm wide or 610mm wide. To be able to put down 1220X2440 and get it exactly right so the top and bottom edges all meet, you HAVE to do this wet.. its impossible to do dry. Its also a lot easier to get air bubbles out of wet.. if dry you have no choice but prick the bubble to let the air out unless its right on the edge where you can push it out.
The water ( with a drip of detergent) is squeezed out from centre to edge.. this can be done with a real cheap car window squeedgy from Crazy Clarks.. costs $2!.. it works perfectly.
If put out in the sun for an hour, the vinyl is completely adhered and completely dry... any retained moisture is sucked out through the vinyl...don't like the sun?.. No problems, it will still dry perfectly but will take a day or two depending on ambient conditions.
I do this for signs that go outside... nothing peels, vinyl stays on and the longer it stays on the harder it is to remove.
Your decal is a print on vinyl.. my signs are either coloured vinyl or print on vinyl with laminate finish.
You will get better results and your job will be a whole lot easier if done wet... it will also allow you to move the decal around a bit for registration.
Even the most experienced sign manufacturers will prefer the wet method for something that is 450mmX1320mm unless its "Easy Apply" which yours wont be.
Do it wet..
Gav
-
Yep, I'm with Gav on this one. I don't see a lot of downside to doing it wet. I just did another set of Getaway decals yesterday arvo wet, and it was quite straightforward. I've not had any issues with the decal not adhering properly, and if an air bubble gets trapped, its really easy to squeeze out.
Here is a vid i did a year or so ago - may not be the way experts do it, but works for me (and my heavily pregnant wife!)
-
Well done Rob, nice video and very informative.
I do agree the wet is far more forgiving and when the pros (Gav) do it that way, well who am I to say otherwise.
Re cleaning with alcohol, is white spirits a suitable alternative ? I have that already!
Re Water spray bottle, just use kitchen washing liquid and how soapy?
Re Before trimming edges, leave the decal overnight to really dry out, to avoid possible movements?
I still want to give the cabinet a few days to cure from painting, and work commitments will not allow me to start for a while.
Thanks once again for all the assistance. @@*
Any more video's or suggestions would be great
Cheers Trent
-
Well done Rob, nice video and very informative.
I do agree the wet is far more forgiving and when the pros (Gav) do it that way, well who am I to say otherwise.
Re cleaning with alcohol, is white spirits a suitable alternative ? I have that already!
Re Water spray bottle, just use kitchen washing liquid and how soapy?
Re Before trimming edges, leave the decal overnight to really dry out, to avoid possible movements?
I still want to give the cabinet a few days to cure from painting, and work commitments will not allow me to start for a while.
Thanks once again for all the assistance. @@*
Any more video's or suggestions would be great
Cheers Trent
I think he means isopropyl alcohol, white spirits might leave a residue
-
Don't use White Spirit... it dissolves glue and any residue will prevent the decal from sticking properly
-
wax and grease remover or prepsol ?
-
Well done Rob, nice video and very informative.
I do agree the wet is far more forgiving and when the pros (Gav) do it that way, well who am I to say otherwise.
Re cleaning with alcohol, is white spirits a suitable alternative ? I have that already!
Re Water spray bottle, just use kitchen washing liquid and how soapy?
Re Before trimming edges, leave the decal overnight to really dry out, to avoid possible movements?
I still want to give the cabinet a few days to cure from painting, and work commitments will not allow me to start for a while.
Thanks once again for all the assistance. @@*
Any more video's or suggestions would be great
Cheers Trent
Yes, isopropyl alchol is what i use
I just use dishwashing liquid, a few drops
The decal job i did on the weekend, i trimmed straight after application, then wiped again with a soft cloth - good to have a second set of hands to trim as they can hold the ruler or straight edge firm while you trim
Agree about leaving the paint to cure
Good luck! Its not that hard
-
Or you could just apply them dry. ^^^
Just saying.......
Dry: (as a one person application)
Line the decal up, cut off half an inch of the backing paper from the edge and stick it down gently on the cabinet. This is your alignment phase.
Once satisfied with all aspects of alignment, use a soft cloth or wear one felt glove and smooth out the decal pushing FROM THE CENTRE OUTWARDS.
Peel away another inch or so of the backing paper and repeat.
You'll be done in 30 minutes tops for each of the main cabinet side decals and 15 each for the coin door and backboxes.
No dealing with liquids so no squeegeeing.
Cabinet/backbox can be flipped over immediately to do the other side. No waiting around for it to dry.
Can be trimmed straight away. No drying time needed.
Temptation to adjust the decal (and potentially ruin the decal) is removed. Line the decal up correctly the first time and you don't need to adjust it anyway.
-
Another trick that I use.
Cut away all the surrounding white border vinyl on the artwork with a Stanley blade BEFORE application.
In other words, ignore the guide line marker points that are printed on the edges of the decal art and align them manually using line of sight. (Cutting away the white border prior assists with this.)
As the name implies, those guide line marker points (crosses) seem to be little more than just a generic guide (for IJ at least) and will most likely lead to the artwork on the sides being misaligned as mentioned earlier.
Here is a pic of how I do it. I am in the process of aligning the main cabinet side (not stuck down) with the front decal (stuck down).
Note how far out of alignment with the cabinet you need to manually place the main decal to get it to align aesthetically with the front artwork. (Remember the legs hide the lower artwork).
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll153/pinball1974/Indiana%20Jones%20in%20progress/100_0454.jpg)
-
Ok, here's an idea - my head is spinning
Going to start with the headboard. One side dry, the other side wet. Best of both Worlds.
At least then I have tried both methods before the big ONE
Thanks Guys, do appreciate the support
-
Just about any other title I wouldn't have mentioned the alignment issues but IJ, TOTAN and MM are the only machines off the top of my head that have what I call 'wraparound artwork' on the edges which does require some manual "fine tuning" alignment if you want it to look better than what they did at the Williams factory.
Most of the other machines are either plain black edging (TZ, TAF Getaway) or have artwork that wasn't meant to line up in the first place (AFM, MB).
Wet or dry whatever you feel comfortable with. ()
You'll be right! ^^^
-
Appreciate the support and info
Will keep you all informed how I progress
Thanks
-
Totally up to you which way you go. They both seem to have there advantages. I found doing it dry was the best for me doing it as Pinsanity has said. As you can see in the second picture I was able to stand back and rest to check the progress. If you do it dry just take your time and make sure its lined up before you start! Notice the clamp and transformer holding everything in place. Good luck with whichever method you choose. ^^^
-
Any tips for doing the front decal? Seems awkward. I read somewhere that some use some sort of plug.
Another trick that I use.
Cut away all the surrounding white border vinyl on the artwork with a Stanley blade BEFORE application.
In other words, ignore the guide line marker points that are printed on the edges of the decal art and align them manually using line of sight. (Cutting away the white border prior assists with this.)
As the name implies, those guide line marker points (crosses) seem to be little more than just a generic guide (for IJ at least) and will most likely lead to the artwork on the sides being misaligned as mentioned earlier.
Here is a pic of how I do it. I am in the process of aligning the main cabinet side (not stuck down) with the front decal (stuck down).
Note how far out of alignment with the cabinet you need to manually place the main decal to get it to align aesthetically with the front artwork. (Remember the legs hide the lower artwork).
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll153/pinball1974/Indiana%20Jones%20in%20progress/100_0454.jpg)
-
Originally I used a piece of custom cut plywood to support the coin door hollow whilst I was applying the decal, but then found the easiest way to eliminate the sagging in the middle was to simply precut out the blank white vinyl in the centre of the decal before applying. As with the siderails, you have a marginal safety net with the inner rectangular edge as the lip of the coin door extends beyond the cutout piece.
Then it is just a matter of doing it in the same way as the sides, cut off half an inch of the backing paper along THE BASE (always start at the base to make sure the artwork stays horizontal, not left to right or vice versa) and then work your way up removing the backing paper an inch or so at a time.
As before, the main concern is making sure the artwork is correctly placed before applying - for example that the winged logo sits below the footprint of the coin door once it is installed.
-
Thanks - seems to make sense to pre-cut - especially for the dry method. For the wet method I guess you'd need the plug.
-
Headboard done!
One wet one dry.
Tried the dry method first, came out really well, no bubbles, just one small bump - forgot to clean the back of the decal (didn't follow Robs instructions &^&). You need to go slow and precise, working from the middle outwards, but good results are certainly possible.
Just tried the wet, results, unfortunately got a small bubble, but having said that, it was my mistake and NOT the method. I found wet easier and far quicker, giving you time and allows for corrections to minor mistakes.
I cut back the backing paper and re-adhered. Set the decal in place with weights and clamp. Stuck one end down, but it was as I transitioned to pulling the remaining paper off I allowed the decal to catch before I sprayed the water and bugger me it was stuck. NEXT time spray water everywhere before you pull the paper back ^^^. I reckon this should prevent the unintentional 'stick'
Trimmed with a medical scalpel and used a black permanent marker to colour the decal trimmed edges
Coin door maybe this afternoon, but will definitely be going 'wet'
-
They look well lined up. Good job. When you do the cabinet decals watch out not to get water on the bottom panel of the machine. It doesn't take water well as I found out the hard way.
-
Looking good
-
looks better than new. great job and thanks for on going updates. good info
-
Nice work - good luck with the big side decals.
-
Very nice work and I'm glad to see you have trimmed the decals with a sharp knife. This is often forgotten !
Now on to the HARD part - and make sure you have a helper !
-
They look well lined up. Good job. When you do the cabinet decals watch out not to get water on the bottom panel of the machine. It doesn't take water well as I found out the hard way.
Yep spot on - tape up the underside so water doesn't get on there.
Looking great!
-
Thanks guys for all the positive feedback #*#
Decals are finished - 95% happy with the job - there are a few tiny bumps, beats me how they got there, but WOW it's done.
My helper, my Wife, made her watch Rob's video first, only difference she's not pregnant !Worked really well, and to be honest was easier than expected ( yeah I know I'll bite my lip after that one!)
Wet method worked a treat, giving you that little bit more time to smooth out any imperfections.
Started to re-assemble, with my aim not to repaint the coin door - big mistake, it looks crap!
So my next question, would love some thoughts and suggestions on 'how to restore' the coin door.
Its' in pretty good condition, no major chips, just dull and lifeless compared to my shinny new decals and painted gun.
I have read from Nino, use Knights Satin Black from Bunnings. It is now stripped and cleaned, the original hammered finish(?) is still intact. Do I just spray over it?
Pics to come, thanks Guys
-
Together it comes :D
-
Nice
-
Who made these decals?
-
I wondered how long it would take before someone noticed these Decals are not genuine! Well done.
I purchased these from overseas, knowing full well they were a repo, and for the price, took the risk. It was less than half the price of genuine and nearly 3 times the saving to the latest increased price!
They are not perfect, and particularly noticeable on the left side where bolt holes would have lined up with the i in Indiana. But the front coin door decal lines up perfectly top and bottom with the sides -genuine doesn't do that.
I tested off cuts with various cleaning fluids, and the good news, none of them removed the print. It was only when I tried thinners it took the lot off!
The machine is a keeper, if I was restoring to sell, genuine would have been the only way to go. In any case, the improvement over what is was is huge, and at the end of the day, I'm happy :D
-
They look fine, and like you said at least on this version the artwork lines up around the corners.
No one is going to pick it out unless they can put one set against the other like I could to do a comparison.
Can't blame you for going the less expensive repro route, since the apparent "last sets of genuine" anywhere are listed for $700 on ebay (with an industrial printer conveniently shown in the background of the seller's photo #@#).
There's no real practical reason why genuine should be $700, apart from the fact that the new Bally/Williams licensee doesn't want to pay the $50,000/3 year license to Lucasfilm! (The first license fee was $20,000 for 2 years.)
-
Coin door question???
Satin black enamel base, and gloss enamel splatter effect.
Leave it as is, or do people apply a clear over the top.
Cheers
-
No clear on the door. The original finish was a flat base and semi gloss splatter.
Those "genuine" IJ decal sets will encourage the "pirate" sets again @@^
-
Protip - An old toothbrush dipped in paint and then flicking the bristles with your finger achieves the splatter effect.
-
My splatter I used a spray can with the nossel just barely depressed, causing it to blow rather than spray....YouTube video .....yeah I know
If genuine decals were priced at some reasonable amount I'm all for it.
It is just a pity that a such highly rated pinball machine such as IJ and the fact it's original decals were crap and faded, Lucas films is dictating the cost of restoration. ^.^
My next project ??? My ST TNG decals 297 genuine. Will be purchasing , but 500-700 bucks, for the last ones ever , REALLY ^%^ ^%^
-
Update,
Coin door painted and re-installed. Headboard re-attached and circuit boards and power supply electrical looms plugged in.
Pulled the cover off the playfield, and thought bugger it - it needs to be stripped and cleaned properly.
My question - it obviously has a mylar sheet added to the top of the playfield and around the bumpers, it's dirty and faded, more so than the unprotected areas. See picture
Will cleaning this, bring it back to life, or do I need to bite the bullet, remove all the mylar and polish all the playfield. Do I then need to re fit mylar? Or home use don't worry.
Any thoughts greatly appreciated. <..>
-
Any chance of cleaning it? If it bothers you, I'd remove it but it's pretty hard to see back there so I'd be inclined to leave it myself as long as you get any dirt off it. Depends how much work you want to put in I guess.
-
Option 1:
If you leave it on, it will take hours to polish it by hand to get it to anything acceptable.
Ideally you would use a high speed drill with a mini buffing tool attachment and Novus 3 or other cutting compound to clean it that will fit in between the white bumper bases. Most of the topside of the upper playfield will need to be stripped anyway to get in there.
Option 2:
I opted to remove the mylar altogether and not replace it, as in a home environment it will be fine. Use De-Solv-It to weaken the glue, wait for the desolvit to work its way in and then peel the mylar away at a 180 degree angle.
The mylar around the bumpers is one piece and extends across to to the single drop target on the right, so you need to be a bit careful on those arrow inserts as the mylar will want to lift up the insert art when you peel it away.
The bonus is the art underneath looks factory fresh once the mylar is removed.
PS: Not sure if you are going custom or not, but those red bumper caps are from a Data East machine. *%*
-
Thanks Pinsanity,
Option 2.
Looking closer at the plastics, there a quite a few broken areas, RTBB has the kit for $145. So reckon I'm going to take a heap of photos and try for the strip down, clean and hope like hell I can remember how to put it back!
No didn't realise the bumper caps were wrong - cheers
BTW love the new Predator vid, very envious, great movie and sound effects.
-
The strip down is ok but definitely take lots of photos. I put each part with it's associated screws, nuts etc in ziplock bags and kept them in the order that I took them off, numbering the bags. I found Garrett Lee's guide invaluable - it is for a full shop out but he goes through strupping the playfield in a good order.
-
The plastics would be a great option as you have done the cabinet and the playfield might look "out of place" if it has broken plastics etc.
With the factory mylar on DMD pins, I've used the freeze spray method a few times without incident.
-
Playfield
Firstly thanks to Dluth, great tip re sorting and Garrett Lee's guide was fantastic, cheers
Camera in hand, I think I took almost 50 photos during the strip down.
Playfield stripped and parts sorted. Removed parts in the same order as outlined in Garrett Lee's guide, helped enormously.
Did not remove everything as you can see, going to clean around what I can, not wanting to 'over challenge' myself by removing more than I can remember to put back.
-
Cleaning
Mylar came off quite easy. Was able to lift a corner with my finger nail and then pull. It unfortunately also lifted 2 insert decals, they were stuck hard to the mylar.
Office Works showed De-Solv-It but not in stock, so I used white spirits to remove the gum residue. Worked really well.
Nifty spray, clean cloth and a non scratch kitchen scourer removed the remaining dirt.
Question - planning on purchasing Novus 2 with my next order. On the top of the playfield picture there is still very noticeable marks(above Indy) and dull finish. Can I expect to clean this off with Novus, and try something else before, or are those marks/gouges there to stay?
Otherwise next step will be a Novus clean, then Meguirars Carnauba wax. Parts cleaning to follow
-
Get into that ball trail at the top of indy with shellite and a magic eraser
-
++ for magic eraser for the ball trails. Not sure about the bit above Indy - try Novus and if there are still marks try magic eraser (but carefully carefully!). I used isopropyl alcohol to dampen my erasers.
With the metal parts I started by using Brasso on them which seemed to work well. I then got lazy and chucked a heap into the dishwasher and this seemed to clean them just as well. No doubt there are other techniques that are better but I could tell from wiping the ramps and other metal parts aftwrwards that at least the superficial dirt had come off.
Don't forget to clean the under playfield ball tunnels too.
I'm doing things in the reverse order to you - done the playfield and now have to move onto the cabinet which scares me!
Send Garrett a thank you email at mrglee@yahoo.com, I'm sure he'll appreciate it. No way could I have done the shop out without his guide. He is also the one that worked out how to get the frog bonus so he's a bit of a legend in my eyes.
-
Thanks Dluth,
Might just try the dishwasher idea, and then elbow grease on anything needing it.
I hit the ball tracks with a magic eraser and nifty, BIG improvement. Will touch up with Novus once it arrives.
Insert decals ordered, since I buggered up two removing the mylar - Yes I was worned &^& That wasn't cheap, but I did ensure it was the ones that DONOT need to be cleared. Now more work to remove and replace the remaining inserts.
Good luck with the cabinet, I really enjoyed that part, where as the electrics boggle me ^&^
Parts order this week.
-
Nah, putting back the playfield is the fun bit. You will at some stage get to the 'where the hell does that screw/part/random thing I've never seen before go' bit though!
-
Spare parts have started to arrive :D
Installation of a cliffy. First time, looks easy, 3 screw holes and adhesive tape, BUT do I need to repair this hole?. The cliffy covers all the damage, but I don't want to find out later that I should have when it starts to lift.
Maybe something like quick wood to re-form the hole !@#
Other question, how good a result can I expect from these ball tracks. The picture actually shows the indent, and rough surrounding playfield (can really feel it under the finger tip). The areas have all been worked with a magic eraser, and now that I have my Novus pack, how hard do I go at it - DO NOT want to remove paint.
Also have new insert decals coming soon. That will obviously improve the INDY section.
I have Meguirars Carnauba wax to finish it with. BTW Supercheap Auto are not continuing to stock, it is a run out item, I was lucky to get hold of.
Been busy polishing and shinning all the metal parts. Struggled to remove dirty tracks with just Brasso and elbow grease. Added a buffing wheel to the drill chuck on my lathe ...wow...went the lathe over the bench grinder as it gives you more maneuverability. Cheap and nasty from SCA is working a treat.
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/3-Pce-Cleaning-Polishing-Set.aspx?pid=272931#Cross
-
Update.
Decals arrived from the States.....finally. UV cured so no need for a clear coat. Have only done the decals that needed replacement. They are slightly larger than the rebate from the insert. Really not sure if I should trim? They do sit and stick very well despite my alignment on some &^&
Mode start hole repaired. Selleys Knead it. Fantastic stuff, moulded it to the hole, and then using the Cliffy protector I pushed it hard into place. This imprinted into the Knead it, making a perfect fit. I'm really confident that the ball when ejected will not lift the cliffy.
Just about finished cleaning, polishing and buffing. Post and screw heads that looked really quite crappy, 30 seconds on the buffing wheel look like brand new. :D
New ramp and plastics from RTBB going in, and correct red bumper caps thanks to pinsanity.
The put back is a bit of a jigsaw, but along with Garrett Lees guide, it's all looking good.
-
and more...
-
Looking nice ^^^ , Before you started did you have any bounce out issues with the mode start hole? If so I'm thinking now might be the time to try and correct it.
-
Thanks *%*
No real issues with 'bounce' from the mode start before resto, so fingers crossed that will be the case after.
Cheers
-
Playfield re-installed and powered it up.....and to my very happy surprise, it worked #*#
Ran a switch test only to find the idol exit switch was dead. Worked before, lucky enough I had a spare, and bingo all good.
Mode start bounce....bugger me, worked fantastic before and now the ball will only stay in the hole if I place it there delicately by hand. That means mini playfield is coming out ^&^
Please any suggestions on this one. 2 new flipper bats, left one staying locked into place, the right one slipping no matter how tight I do the clamp, any tighter an I'm going to break something. I even used very rough sand paper to score long ways on the flipper bat shaft, to rough up the surface. No go !@# still slipping.
Overall I'm fairly happy with myself. IJ is looking pretty sweet - bling shots to come once I sort out these few issues.
-
Did you replace the clamp on the flipper mechanism? If it is too bent it will never grip the flipper shaft even if you try to bend it out. I have read of a few fixes for the bounce out issue. 1.washers between the saucer and the playfield. 2. Padding stuck behind the hole. 3. Slotting the holes in the bracket behind the hole to move it back. Adding a cliffy which you have already done. I would be interested to know how you go with it as I have an Indy with the same issue.
-
No, have not replaced the clamp. Will aim to strip down the whole assembly in the next couple of days. May have to bite the bullet and buy 2 overall kits. Aust post is making a fortunate out of me with all these orders ^&(
Pin side has some good write ups for the bounce, saw member dluth comment on one with success. Going to add washers to the cup, and firstly try bending the backing plate, the ball is just banging into it. I'm guessing I replaced it in as lightly more forward position,despite using the same screw holes,in any case it did work well before I added the cliffy. But I reckon I will end up removing and adding foam. Will let you know my results.
-
No, have not replaced the clamp. Will aim to strip down the whole assembly in the next couple of days. May have to bite the bullet and buy 2 overall kits. Aust post is making a fortunate out of me with all these orders
Yep, A rebuild kit is the way to go. You also may want to consider changing the plastic bush which goes through the playfield. They are cheap and don't come with the rebuild kit.
I know what you mean about paying the postie. Had that issuse on my first restoration. Many times I was saying to myself, "Now i need to get one of those!!" This time I am trying to resist buying anything till I get it totally stripped and a list together. Bet I still miss a few things though. @.@
-
Put the old flipper bat back on the RHS and see if it tightens.
I have received "new" flipper bats in the past where the shaft was manufactured narrower than normal and would not grip no matter how tight it was made.
I might have some spare bats and rebuild kits anyway - I'll have a dig in my pile of spares and see what I can send. ^^^
-
Well done mate, great effort. Replace the black rubbers with white will make future cleaning a lot easier.
-
Yeah, i started getting bounce outs from the mode start once I put a Cliffy in. Removed the plate altogether, put drop dead foam at the back and left side and now probably 90% of balls stay in there.
I still can't quite get my POA dialled in !@#
-
I'm done #*#
All working, and very happy with my results on my first resto.
Mode start update, added a single washer to the underside of the 4 screws of the cup. Removed the back plate and bent it more vertical at the screw point. Then re-positioned it in the vice and rolled it over like a wave shape. Did not add rubber or anything else, and so far so good, 9 out of 10 balls capturing
Here are the pics, unfortunately sun is out in Adelaide but not high enough in the sky yet!
-
more
-
Last lot
-
and for a video attempt
&feature=youtu.be
Big of a laugh.... ^^^
-
Looks fantastic, great job on the decals. I'm envious!
-
Looks fantastic! What's your next project? #@#
-
Amazing outcome. That is simply AWESOME. Well done on every aspect and I'll bet you are kicking back and ENJOYING this brilliant machine. That's a lot of hard work, but there is no better satisfaction than staring at this beautiful machine.
@@*
-
Thank you for the very kind words <..>
I own an APR restored machine, being Funhouse. The time, precision, effort and accuracy of the restoration contributes to it looking and playing perfectly.
I found myself saying 'how would Nino do this' during each process. Answer 'the proper way'
I tried to replicate this philosophy, with the results surpassing my expectations.
Thanks to everyone for all the positive feedback and assistance provided along the way.
Next - STTNG could benefit from the same, but I seem to spend more time trying to rectify new faults !@#
Cheers Trent
-
Excellent job. A great looking IJ, you should be very proud of your self ^^^
-
Next - STTNG could benefit from the same
Great minds must think alike. After my Indy is finished I would also like to do up a STNG. ^^^
-
Thank you for the very kind words <..>
I own an APR restored machine, being Funhouse. The time, precision, effort and accuracy of the restoration contributes to it looking and playing perfectly.
I found myself saying 'how would Nino do this' during each process. Answer 'the proper way'
I tried to replicate this philosophy, with the results surpassing my expectations.
Thanks to everyone for all the positive feedback and assistance provided along the way.
Next - STTNG could benefit from the same, but I seem to spend more time trying to rectify new faults !@#
Cheers Trent
EXACTLY why I document my restorations on AP ^^^
Restoration is much more fun than playing for me. I suppose the natural progression from playing is to fix your own games and then take the big step to restoration. There would be a massive feeling if satisfaction knowing you have restored your own game, and now you are part of the game's history. Makes it all the more "special" !