The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Strangeways on April 17, 2009, 12:13:25 AM
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Another machine I've just started for a member on AP ! (See, being a member does have it's benefits - %.%)
Background
This machine is was brought into the country by Childs in the infamous 80's Container, and it was bought by a member here. While accessing the machine on his behalf, I noticed that the playfield was protected by a layer of dirt and mylar. Under that dirt would have to be a really great playfield. The boards were EXTRA clean. I have retored TWO Galaxy machines before and they are FAST and FUN pinballs. Having a Galaxy next to a Meteor for a short time was great fun !
Condition
Playfield - 8/10 - No wear ! Looks FILTHY - But it will come up nice. One of the signs for me that this machine was well looked after and had low plays was the two return lanes (plastics) were intact. They are ALWAYS broken.
Cabinet - 7/10 - A couple of scuff marks, and some areas that will need attention, but as with all Stern's - NO FADE !
Backglass - 7/10 - Typical Stern backglass - the ink layer is TOO THIN, which leads to the cracking effect. Better than the two backglasses on the machines I owned.
Electronics - 10/10 - Cleanest set of boards I've ever seen on a pinball. No corrosion, no repairs.
Objectve
To have fun ! To restore this machine to the best condition possible. Parts are hard to get, but I think I have enough to work with !
The Beginning
The cabinet is waaaay up the back of the garage, behind some other pins - But the head is easily accessible over the other side of the garage. So I will start there. As I go along, I'll remove the lower cabinet from it's hiding spot.
The Head
Easily accessible in the garage, so I started on it. I previously removed the soldenoid Driver and the displays for repair and upgrades. I found the key to the head stuck to the dirt on the bottom of the head - good start. The paintwork was excellent - colors vibrant, and they will come up really nice. A couple of nasty scratches caught my attention.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20507.jpg)
Some filth, and a little bit of corrosion. amazingly, the battery did not leak !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20509.jpg)
Stripped - Everything out ! In the end, I removed the grills and groundstraps. There had some signs of corrosion,
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20518.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20519.jpg)
A quick vacuum, and then some compressed air, and we can see things starting to look better. Then, I clean with Nifti, and I left it out in the sun for a few hours.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20520.jpg)
The top corner was shaved off. I looked terrible, and even though it was not totally visible from the player's point of view - I didn't want to leave it like that. To makes things hard, it is chipboard - a smooth surface, and very weak underneath. This wood expands when wet. The idea of replacing the wood was to big a job just for the corner - but I did think about it.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20523.jpg)
But in the end - I thought I would try painting over it. Like I said - it is not really noticeable from eye level, and I would have to repaint the entire head if I replaced the wood. Time to mask up the parts I don't want to paint.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20535.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20536.jpg)
After two coats of paint - it looks MUCH better.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20553.jpg)
All the hardware was bathed in Ranex, and the screws were buffed. No stone unturned. All the old staples were removed. Everything was cleaned and refitted. The grills were cleaned with a wire brush, undercoated and painted black. Even the braid was cleaned with Ranex, and re stapled
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20569.jpg) (http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20570.jpg)
The wiring was washed in a bucket of warm water with nifti and then rinsed and left on the fence (in the sun for an hour). I then used to compressor to remove any water from the connectors. All the wire clips were cleaned and refitted.
After all that work, the head is done and put aside until needed. It looks much better !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20574.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20571.jpg)
^^^
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Looking good mate - as usual!
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Attention to detail, amazing results - we are accustomed to this now and would expect nothing less!
A pleasure to view your work, Nino.
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Playfield disassembly
I had previously taken out the playfield just to have a sticky beak - so it was next ! It has mylar, that was placed on after the game had been played. Sections of it had shrunk, and lifted only small sections of paint. There was a fair bit of corrosion, but nowhere nearly as bad as the Sinbad. Probably because Stern didn't use chrome assemblies ?
Apron is really good as well
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20546.jpg)
Before pictures - Well they don't look that pleasant - but they never do ! Some parts will simply need replacement, other will have to be treated. Plastics are fine though, and the playfield itself is really good (just does not look that way right now)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20555.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20556.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20561.jpg)
Playfield stripped, and you can see the mylared sections. No considerable wear - thanks to the mylar
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20563.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20564.jpg)
Here's a test section after the mylar was removed - just some Nifti, follwed by Novus 2. The mylar removal tool about 2 hours, and there was hardly any paint lift at all !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20565.jpg)
Here's the adhesive residue leftover from the mylar removal
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20566.jpg)
Post Mylar removal is always the fun bit ! All the adhesive residue is removed, and now we need to just clean up the playfield with some Isocol and Magic Eraser. Looks a bit strange, but some controlled elbow grease and patience will give you some really nice results.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20582.jpg)(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20583.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20584.jpg)(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20585.jpg)
Now you can still see the area where the mylar meets the bare playfield. This will be buffed out a bit later. These pictures were taken after two sessions of cleaning with Novus 2
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20586.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20587.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20588.jpg)
Here's the future of Pinball !
My 4 year old - Zac, Complete with his own toolkit, at work disassembling the underside of the playfield. He has his own "Ben 10" watch in case of emergencies. He loves working on the machines with me.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20581.jpg)
$#$
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Wow that playfield came up a treat!! Galaxy is yet another old favourite of mine. I used to play one in Port Macquarie years ago and it got quite a workout from me!!
Looking forward the the rest of the updates ^^^ ^^^
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That playfield is in great condition - amazing the difference a good clean can make. Obviously the mylar helped preserve this one, but as you mentioned earlier, it certainly hasn't been over-used.
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That's a very nice playfield. Came up a treat. ^^^
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I dont let my 5yrold disassemble my pins, but hopefully oneday! PF looks great Nino @@*
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I see Zac has been promoted Nino ! ^^^ @@*
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I see Zac has been promoted Nino ! ^^^ @@*
Yes he has - but only under supervision. I don't let him in the garage or near a machine without being supervised. I try not to upset him, otherwise he changes into one of the Ben 10 characters and things get messy.
%.%
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Nino in the 13th photo it best shows what I would called "cracking" of the paint. My Flash has this also, is there anything much that can done with it? I magic erasered the PF, and got really great color and shine, but would love for that cracking look to be gone. Or am I wanting the impossible without a re-spray?
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Looks great Nino - as always.
The receiving member will have a very nice machine.
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The cracking is "Ball swirl" - and usually, removing the dirt in other colors is easy, as the dirt is black. The Magic Eraser removes the black dirt from the clearcoat or varnish. The color behind it "highlights" the dirt in the minuscule cracks. When the "ball swirl" is evident on black art, then there is the problem as highlighted in picture 13. The "ball swirl" cracks are present, but there is no dirt in them - just the cracks themselves. There is no way other than sanding off the clearcoat, to remove the cracks - this is true for all "ball swirl" - you are NOT removing the cracks, just the dirt deposited in them.
Black just highlights the cracks.
By applying paste wax and buffing, the cracks are less predominant - the wax is "soaked" into the cracks - but it does not completely fix the issue.
I hope that makes sense.
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Yep made sense, I may try buffing it oneday and see how much better it looks.
Ty
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Yep maded sense, I may try buffing it oneday and see how much better it looks.
Ty
How about trying some of that coloured polish you can get from auto shops. That stuff is meant to cover up scratches on cars so it should do the same thing on a playfield.
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Wouldnt work on Flash, it has so many multi-color areas.
!@#
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I just meant the black bits as it seems to stand out more on there.
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yep, Anyone tried heating the wax to get better penetration?
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Nino,
You are welcome to borrow my T.C cleaning kit for a test if you want? I've only tested it on diamond plate & mylar.
Just let me know.
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Thanks for the offer Marty, but I've done the best I think that can be done for that area - read below !
Previously, I removed just about everything from the bottom of the playfield. Now the corrosion was not bad, but there was the presence of the white powder deposited on all metal parts - so here's what I did for both sides of the playfield parts ;
Plastics - I used hot water and nifty. All the plastic parts (except the actual plastics set), were immersed in hot water and nifti and left overnight.
Plastics Set - Warm water and Nifti - Let them soak for a couple of minutes, wash and then rinse
All small metal parts - First immerse in boiling water and windex, soak overnight
The following day - wash all plastic parts, metal parts and small metal parts and then rinse and finally leave out in the sun to dry !
The screws etc still had some corrosion on them, so I let them soak in ranex for an hour. Then wash with windex. They had a dull look, but not a trace of corrosion. I then placed everything metal in the tumbler for 8 hours. Each individual screw (playfield parts side) was buffed.
I used the wire wheel to clean the metal assemblies.
Finally - Time to reinstall everything ! The playfield switches were gently buffed and installed, as well as most other parts. I need to order some coil sleeves etc - they will be done later on.
The underside was cleaned with Nifti and the wire loom as well. Looks like the light sockets may need replacement. Here's a picture of the underside as of last night ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20515.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20522.jpg)
Slowly does it - but its coming along great.
I spend a few more hours on the topside of the playfield. I tried to remove as much ball swirl as possible in the black areas, but I'm not going to do anymore work there as I may breach the original clearcoat. Once I was happy, I used Meguiars Paste wax and gave it 3 coats. It looks MUCH better in the flesh ! I will take the next set of picture during the day !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20520b.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20526.jpg)
One of the metal guides on the ball trough had a broken tab, but luckily, I had a spare and I used that instead.
&&
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Looking great now, the work is paying off.
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It is looking very nice Nino. Very nice indeed.
The playfield rotissary looks very handy as well.
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looks great
where do i get the magic eraser from?
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Supermarket - it is a Chux product.
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Supermarket - it is a Chux product.
thanks
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Lots going on with this restore - it is slow, but I ran out of Nifti !@#
This is a mini update, but it is probably two nights worth of work. The tilt board and the lock down bar assembly were heavily affected by corrosion, and I thought I'd get this out of the way. The corrosion has turned into rust on the LDB assembly to the point where it is ingrained into the metal. I have two options - clean it as best I can, or paint it a silver color. After attacking it with the wire wheel, wire brush and Ranex, I thought I'd keep going with the first option.
Lock Down Bar BEFORE
One of the worst I've ever seen. BUT, the mechanism is not affected at all - It is easily moved
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20547.jpg)
I basically stripped the handle and soaked it with boiling water and windex. Once it was clean, I used the wire wheel on my buffer and it started to look much better. Combined with the wire brush, and Ranex, it came up very nice. I'll show the top of the assembly once it is screwed back onto the cabinet.
AFTER
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20551.jpg)
Tilt board BEFORE
Not really that bad..
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20545.jpg)
I stripped, cleaned and polished the metal parts and resanded the wood. The wire loom was washed with nifti, rinsed and dried with compressed air.
AFTER
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20549.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20550.jpg)
Looks MUCH Better !
I have not added the pictures of the cabinet before I started yet, as it is not finished. It will be covered later.
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Awesome work mate. That Ranex is brilliant stuff.
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looking good.
keep up the great work
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Love your work. Very tidy.
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You Really are the restore king Nino that tilt panel looks fantastic
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Its all about enjoying yourself, and ensuring a once forgotten and neglected machine finds a good home.
I have almost finished the cabinet, pictures to follow tomorrow - But I'm really pleased with the progress !
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Cabinet
As with most of these machines, the cabinet looked rough and suffered from some corrosion. The paintwork was intact and VERY good - being a Stern, the paint has not faded, and a quick clean will have the cabinet looking very good. The door is a bit of a problem, but that will get sorted out later - so don't let the pictures have you reaching for the bucket !
Before
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20528.jpg) (http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20540.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20530.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20531.jpg)
Resident Spider, unfortunately didn't make the trip - alive %.%
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20534.jpg)
The Process
Every part is removed - every screw is removed. Anything not bolted is removed. Then the parts are washed with boiling water and nifti. Let everything soak for a while. When the water is warn, clean everything with a scotchbrite pad - I go through plenty of these. Then the fun begins - all screws etc are soaked for 30 minutes, then washed again in boiling water and windex. Finally dried and placed in the tumbler for 4 hours. Not done yet - Each individual screw is buffed on the bench grinder. Seems like a lot of work - but it has to be done !
All other parts are cleaned and either painted at a later date, or polished.
Progress
After a very thorough clean, the cabinet looks very good. Still have some regraining to do - but I will order new nails and regrain the side rails then and there. So here are the pictures ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20011.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20012.jpg) (http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20016.jpg)
Legs
These are the proper 28 1/2 inch Stern legs. They are instantly recognizable, as they have the paint applied with a pattern - a "hammered finish", which I really like. There were in bad shape, so I straightened them as best I can and gave them a clean ;
The two on the left have been cleaned with Nifti and a scotchbrite pad. The two on the right were "as is".
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20009.jpg)
Now they have been cleaned and prepared with the wire brush on the bench grinder. Ready for painting ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20023.jpg)
First coat is thin, the next is a little thicker. Then it must be left for 3 days, and repainted. They will look like this (still wet)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20024.jpg)
Coin Door
What a mess ! corroded and dirty - nuff said !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20032.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20031.jpg)
Again - Stripped, cleaned, treated with ranex, but still not good ! I had to strip the paint off with Citrus Strip. Then with a wire brush - remove all traces of corrosion. This took 6 hours to have it ready for painting.
Here's the individual parts after painting ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20048.jpg)
The front Door - looking VERY good !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20054.jpg)
I'm very pleased with the "hardest" part of the restoration - the coin door !
:D
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Nice work bud,
Out of interest what did you use to spray the coin door and the legs? (sorry if I missed that in your posts)
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I have a very detail post here, tony ;
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=83.0
It is White Knight Hammered Finish - Silver - Bunnings have it for $15 !
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Very impressive work!
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Very impressive work!
Glad you like it mate - I love doing classic Sterns !
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I was expecting to see Ranex at work on that door, but I guess you didn't need it this time around.
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I was expecting to see Ranex at work on that door, but I guess you didn't need it this time around.
I actually did use ranex AFTER I stripped the paint off with Citrus Strip. Ranex and a hand held wire brush. I then used the Bench Grinder with the wire fitting. It is guaranteed not to rust !
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I was expecting to see Ranex at work on that door, but I guess you didn't need it this time around.
I actually did use ranex AFTER I stripped the paint off with Citrus Strip. Ranex and a hand held wire brush. I then used the Bench Grinder with the wire fitting. It is guaranteed not to rust !
Oops, somehow I skipped reading that particular caption. It sounds like a lot of hard work even with Ranex.
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Jeez that cabinet came up great!! looks like it was in pretty good nick, not needing a repaint! everytime i come across these old sterns they are beaten to crap. And Galaxy is yet another id like to stumble across one day :lol
Keep up the great work and keep inspiring me, to get off my arse and get stuck into my Zac Universe!!!
Cheers Mitch
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Great Job again Nino. I might have missed it in your post but what is Ranex?
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"Ranex Rustbuster converts rust from a detrimental oxide to a phosphate of iron, thus prolonging the life of the metal and paint."
He has mentioned it before in other restoration threads as a good product to use.
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Great job once again Nino. @@*
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Its all about enjoying yourself, and ensuring a once forgotten and neglected machine finds a good home.
I have almost finished the cabinet, pictures to follow tomorrow - But I'm really pleased with the progress !
With a great attitude towards your work, it's know wonder they turn out immaculate.
"Simpley Stunning
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Pictorial Update !
I've installed most of the hardware, still have to do some more work there, but there's enough done for an update. The legbolts are polished and the legs installed. Lockdown bar assembly is finally installed as well.
I had to remove the siderails - they needed to be regrained (windex and 360 wet / dry), and the nails were just rusted and looked poor. I've only done one side, as this needs to be a job that is done carefully. Here is some pictures of the side I finished tonight ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20026.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20027.jpg)
Repairs to the body
Only part that needed repair was the assembly in between the head and body. This was broken. I removed the nails and simply sanded the wood clean, made sure it was still square and glued / screwed and nailed the four pieces into place;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20241.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20033.jpg)
The inside of the cab is finally coming together.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20029.jpg)
Hey - where did the spider go ?
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20030.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture311.jpg)
The Door - NIICE !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20028.jpg)
<.>
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In the words of Borat - wa wa wee wa! I hope he doesn't get me for copyright violation on that one. %.%
By the way, you owe me a dead spider. It came with the machine and now it's gone.
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In the words of Borat - wa wa wee wa! I hope he doesn't get me for copyright violation on that one. %.%
By the way, you owe me a dead spider. It came with the machine and now it's gone.
I'll just buy a fake Spider and claim it as "Original Stern Spider".
If I find a huntsman before I pack it, I'll remember to stick it on the inside panel for you ^^^
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Cabinet is almost done !
I've let the door hardware have time to dry and then spent some time reassembling. It is always great to have all these freshly painted and polished parts all come back together.
The hard work on the coin door was fruitful, and I'm very pleased with the outcome. It IS the same door ! The coin entry plate is just too damaged, but luckily I had a spare I found in a box of parts - so I polished that up and used it. Not perfect, but these are no longer available as a spare part. Everything is rebuilt - I have left the chrome plated coin assemblies out as I have to attempt a different approach to restoring these as re-chroming will be too expensive.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20059.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20060.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20061.jpg)
The door is finally mounted in place - new lock installed - makes a difference !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20065.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20066.jpg)
Inside the cabinet is done - New flipper buttons and flipper switches installed. Everything else is cleaned, tumbled or polished. Check out the original pictures on the first page as a reference !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20084.jpg)
Next update - The power board.
:D
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Really nice mate. Just like new!
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I want an old stern now just so i can do up the coin door each one i see done up just looks fantastic. Great work again NINO
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Saw this one in person last night when I picked up the AP flyers. That hammertone finish really does look the goods - sounds a bit fiddly to get right but Nino has it down pat.
Thanks for your hospitality, mate - the way that garage is packed with pinballs is something else plus the wife's car fits in!!
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So andrew is it true that he could hardly fit in another leg let alone a machine??????
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So andrew is it true that he could hardly fit in another leg let alone a machine??????
Nah, still a little bit of room but I imagine not much with the car parked in there. I doubt another pin would fit in too easily, but a few pinball legs wouldn't cause an issue.
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Saw this one in person last night when I picked up the AP flyers. That hammertone finish really does look the goods - sounds a bit fiddly to get right but Nino has it down pat.
Thanks for your hospitality, mate - the way that garage is packed with pinballs is something else plus the wife's car fits in!!
It was a pleasure to have you around, Andrew.
Yes - you DO need a shoehorn to fit another pin in my Garage. I had 29 in there once !
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SOrry for doupting you nino but it sounded to good to be true. That many pins you cant even fit a leg in i like the sound of that ^^^
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Man thats sweet lookin! comin up a treat. As i think i said before Galaxy is another old favourite of mine that id love to find one for myself one day. Love the old Stern games.
Keep up the great work ^^^ ^^^
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Looks amazing Nino (as always)....just one question.
Why is there a car in the garage?
I recently bought my wife a new Hyundai i30...and it isn't in the garage :lol
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That a boy tony no cars in my garage either lol
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Looks amazing Nino (as always)....just one question.
Why is there a car in the garage?
I recently bought my wife a new Hyundai i30...and it isn't in the garage :lol
All good marriages are based on compromise...just depends which compromises work for you...
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That a boy tony no cars in my garage either lol
Since when is a garage made for a car ?
we have a double lock up garage & guess what, no car.
funny that, most people in our street have their cars parked in their drive way and all of them have double garages.
i thought the sole use for a garage was to store pinball machines <.> :lol <.>
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That a boy tony no cars in my garage either lol
Since when is a garage made for a car ?
we have a double lock up garage & guess what, no car.
funny that, most people in our street have their cars parked in their drive way and all of them have double garages.
i thought the sole use for a garage was to store pinball machines <.> :lol <.>
Exactly !!
Cars are waterproof - Pinballs are not.
But - To be able to have machines stored in the garage - I had to compromise - Hence the huge shoehorn !
The car fits with one foot spare.
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The Macquarie Dictionary defines a garage as:
A place to keep, restore and play your pinball machines....with very loud rock/metal music, lots of beer and if you are inclined some nice buds *%*
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The Macquarie Dictionary defines a garage as:
A place to keep, restore and play your pinball machines....with very loud rock/metal music, lots of beer and if you are inclined some nice buds *%*
Cheers Tony #*#
I'm printing that out and taking it to the missus.
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That a boy tony no cars in my garage either lol
Since when is a garage made for a car ?
we have a double lock up garage & guess what, no car.
funny that, most people in our street have their cars parked in their drive way and all of them have double garages.
i thought the sole use for a garage was to store pinball machines <.> :lol <.>
Come to think of it, no cars are parked in our garage either!
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The Macquarie Dictionary defines a garage as:
A place to keep, restore and play your pinball machines....with very loud rock/metal music, lots of beer and if you are inclined some nice buds *%*
Cheers Tony #*#
I'm printing that out and taking it to the missus.
Maybe take out the 'nice buds' part #@#
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The Macquarie Dictionary defines a garage as:
A place to keep, restore and play your pinball machines....with very loud rock/metal music, lots of beer and if you are inclined some nice buds *%*
Cheers Tony #*#
I'm printing that out and taking it to the missus.
Maybe take out the 'nice buds' part #@#
.. as in "flower buds" - *%*
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Wow Nino just awesome well done-wish I had that sort of skill and patients..
Peter
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I would love to own a Nino-ized machine, so much attention to detail.
#*#
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That a boy tony no cars in my garage either lol
Since when is a garage made for a car ?
we have a double lock up garage & guess what, no car.
funny that, most people in our street have their cars parked in their drive way and all of them have double garages.
i thought the sole use for a garage was to store pinball machines <.> :lol <.>
Exactly !!
Cars are waterproof - Pinballs are not.
But - To be able to have machines stored in the garage - I had to compromise - Hence the huge shoehorn !
The car fits with one foot spare.
I take it all of you guys drive "modern" cars? I understand why you wouldn't care if they were parked outside, but when your cars are old and precious like mine are to me, protecting them from the elements is just as important as protecting my pinball machines. For me, the garage is for cars and the house is for pinball machines, unless I ever get a big-ass shed, in which case the cars and machines can live together. I couldn't sacrifice one for the other though.
Matthew
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I suppose I'm lucky-cars are in garage and pinballs are in games room.. ^^^
Peter
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That a boy tony no cars in my garage either lol
Since when is a garage made for a car ?
we have a double lock up garage & guess what, no car.
funny that, most people in our street have their cars parked in their drive way and all of them have double garages.
i thought the sole use for a garage was to store pinball machines <.> :lol <.>
Exactly !!
Cars are waterproof - Pinballs are not.
But - To be able to have machines stored in the garage - I had to compromise - Hence the huge shoehorn !
The car fits with one foot spare.
I take it all of you guys drive "modern" cars? I understand why you wouldn't care if they were parked outside, but when your cars are old and precious like mine are to me, protecting them from the elements is just as important as protecting my pinball machines. For me, the garage is for cars and the house is for pinball machines, unless I ever get a big-ass shed, in which case the cars and machines can live together. I couldn't sacrifice one for the other though.
Matthew
I concur - My wife wants "her spot" - she has a 2007 Mazda 3, I have a 1997 EL Wagon that gets me to work and transports pins ! My car is outside.
WHEN the Karmann Ghia is finished, the pins have to go into storage (being organized now) - IF - Dad does not want the Karmann at his place.
I do have a games room that will hold 10 Pinballs, so things will change - in time ! I have to restore some of my games before moving them in.
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Power Supply & Transformer Assembly
Time to rebuild the power supply and the transformer assembly. There boards are usually mutilated will all sorts of creative hacks done during the lifetime the machine. Not this one. This is easily the best I've seen in a long time. Suggests that the game was well maintained and repairs were made, rather than the board have fuses of higher values than rated installed. Regardless, I like to rebuild the power boards, components may look to be in good condition, but they may be out of tolerance due to age.
Before
I didn't test the power supply, I simply rebuild it and upgraded it. Fuses were all of the correct rating - which is a great sign.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20082.jpg)
Plunger and assembly looks a bit corroded - No problems there - Ranex to the rescue.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20083.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20088.jpg)
The Transformer and assembly
I stripped all the parts off the wooden plank and washed them in hot water with nifti. The transformer and credit assembly brackets were polished on the buffer and the plates were cleaned with a wire brush. Screws were submerged in a small tub of Ranex and buffed. The Wood was sanded with 120 grit. Everything was re assembled. All I had to do was rebuild the board !
When finished - it should look like this ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20094.jpg)
Rebuild of the Power supply Board
I usually replace everything except the Varistor. I make my own rebuild kits, and I source them from GPE in bulk. I use the upgrade method used by Clay on the Marvin's Guides. The process can take anwhere from 3 - 10 hours depending on the condition of the board. This particular board was clean and very easy to work with. I replace all the parts for reliability and the components are old and may have drifted out of specification / tolerance.
Here's the board before I started ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20096.jpg)
All the components are removed, taking care that the small collars that are in each component hole are not accidentally removed. I use a simple method of a solder sucker and a soldering station set at 700 degrees. A quick clean with a toothbrush and Alcohol and the new parts are ready to install. I had to remove the TP1 test point as the metal part was corroded, and the leg of R2 can be used.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20107.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20106.jpg)
The old parts ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20108.jpg)
The new parts - except the 100K 1/4 Resistor and 4 X 1N4004 Diodes. I use the Tin plated brass Fuse clips for low current application and the Beryllium copper for 10A and 20A fuses.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20109.jpg)
Preparation
Don't skip this step !
I prefer to sand the board with 360 Grit sandpaper to remove the old solder and to remove the blue sections from the fuse areas. I started doing this a while ago as I noticed corrosion UNDER blue areas, and I could not work out why the solder would not make good contact. The second reason is to increase the surface area that the new fuse clips will be soldered onto. More on that later. I sand the areas where I need to solder right down to the copper - this removes all old solder and flux which would still be present. It will look similar to this ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20111.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20113.jpg)
Fuse Clips
Here's what I do - Insert the new Fuse Clips into place. The picture below shows only the RHS clip soldered. I ensure the clip is pushed flush with the board. Then heat the base of the clip and place the solder on one end, let it flow, and then quickly flow the solder on the other side. The aim is to have the solder almost cover the base - giving it more surface area on the clip.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20115.jpg)
Once the RHS clip has cooled down, fit a fuse into the soldered clip - the LHS clip is not soldered yet, but the fuse will help ensure that the distance between the two clips is sufficient. Ususally, good quality (buss) clips have a section at one end of the clip that has a lip to ensure the fuse cannot dislodge. If this is not checked, then the fuse will not "clip" into the clip correctly.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20118.jpg)
Bridge Rectifiers
ALWAYS use wire legs, not lugs. These are 400V 35Amp BRs, and you need to be careful fitting these on your boards, as they are much larger than the originals, and they are mounted on the reverse side. The holes in the board need to be free of any solder - the legs are a tight fit. Start with the middle BR, as it's legs will be straight. Then fit the LHS and RHS. The legs need to be bent as per the pictures below. Once they are fitted, solder one topside leg of each BR - because they will move as you work on soldering them in. Once you are happy that they are straight, make sure they are soldered in on the TOP and BOTTOM of the board. Leave the BR's legs as long as possible for airflow. I have not installed the heatsinks yet - as I have to order them, but they are easy to install later - as long as the legs are LONG !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20116.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20122.jpg)
Connectors, diodes and resistors
The easiest part, and best to leave until after the BRs and Fuse Clips are done. Simply trim the .156 connector, trim the Keyed pin, and solder into place. Start at one end, and then check that the connector is flush, solder the other end and check again. Then just do all the pins. Repeat for all the other connectors. Install the diodes and the resistors and you are done ! Ensure the large resistors have space underneath them for air flow. It should look like this ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20121.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20120.jpg)
Mods and Upgrades
I have been using Clay's guides for years, and I simply follow his directions from the Marvin's guides
http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/index1.htm#ps
Clay deserves a lot of credit for saving many machine and boards over the years.
However - He makes it look so easy ! Here's my typical upgrade results ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20127.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20129.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20130.jpg)
Finished Board !
The board is done and fitted to the Transformer assembly. Next step is to install new fuses and test in the machine
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20132.jpg)
Typically, these voltages should be seen in attract mode
TP1 - 6.4 VDC
TP2 - 195 VDC
TP3 - 13.5 VDC
TP4 - 7.5 VAC
TP5 - 47 VDC
These will be 10 - 15% over these value with no load.
Installed into the game
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20133.jpg)
The final step is to replace the factory pins in the connectors (J1, J2 & J3) with Trifuricon pins. Don't skip this step !!
I will start a new post as a Tech guide for any Techie type questions rather than on this restore, as the detail may get lost.
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You make everything look easy aswell nino and quality your right up the top but i think i did notice a finger print on one of your polished parts are you slipping? ( And thats a joke dont look for one) Great Job
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Awesome work Nino. As usual your electronic restoration skills just blow me away.
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Things will pick up on this restore shortly, as some very "hard to get parts" had to be sourced from several vendors. There is no flipper rebuild kit for classic Sterns, but with some help from PBR and armed with the Stern Parts manual, I will be able to create a rebuild kit NEW parts. I'll document the process - as there are plenty of interesting developments for classic Stern owners !
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Big Update
The first lot of parts arrived and it is back to the playfield. All the parts that are being returned to the game have been cleaned, "ranexed" or polished. In most cases - all three !
The underside parts that I really needed were simply the coil sleeves, and three complete replacement "kits" for the pop bumpers. The only parts retained were the metal bases, brass washers and plastic washers. The plungers could not be sourced, but they polished up well.
Here's a picture of the underside assembly - Does not take long, once you have everything all together.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20033.jpg)
Just the basics - slowly putting it all back together. Most of the parts are new - so it is going to look very nice ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20024.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20025.jpg)
Here's the ball gate comparison. Same part number, but a little different. I had to drill new holes as the replacement was larger. But have a look at the old rusted gate ! There was no way I was going to polish the old one - there's notheing left to polish !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20028.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20029.jpg)
Looks MUCH better !
More progress pictures ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20034.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20035.jpg)
Now here is where I'm at after cleaning the plastics - and this is a HUGE difference from the "before" pictures - I'm VERY happy with the resto thus far ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20037.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20038.jpg)
Now the first major problem is that the spinner is the wrong one - it is out of a Williams space game - Probably Space Mission. So the plan is to paint it black and find decal art and go with that !
<.>
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Hi Nino, these might help %$%
Love your work - you go a bit further on most things than I have the patience for !@)
cheers
Ian
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Nino - looks great!
Thanks for posting the decal pics Ian.
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Thanks Ian - I can't believe that on my last Galaxy, I did the spinner black - just like the photo on IPDB !
The flyer spinner is white - Interesting !
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I learned a while ago you cannot trust the pictures on IPDB - they pretty much post whatever people send them. In the picture you were referencing the lane guides are the wrong colours and the flipper lane guides are double sided instead of the original single sided (like you have done ^^^)
It is a great resource, however, and having a look now the spinner scans for Galaxy are actually up there as well...
cheers
Ian
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I learned a while ago you cannot trust the pictures on IPDB - they pretty much post whatever people send them. In the picture you were referencing the lane guides are the wrong colours and the flipper lane guides are double sided instead of the original single sided (like you have done ^^^)
It is a great resource, however, and having a look now the spinner scans for Galaxy are actually up there as well...
cheers
Ian
Yes - I ended up looking at the Flyer - Which I had anyway %.%
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Looking good Nino.
Is Galaxy a good pin to play, I really cant remember?
Is it possible to get rid of those tiny cracks in the playfield./ Will magic eraser make them less noticeable?
Otherwise its really coming up well.
Chris
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Looking good Nino.
Is Galaxy a good pin to play, I really cant remember?
Is it possible to get rid of those tiny cracks in the playfield./ Will magic eraser make them less noticeable?
Otherwise its really coming up well.
Chris
Galaxy is an exceptional pin to play. Meteor and Galaxy are both superb looking and playing machines.
The cracks - Not much can be done with them - other than painting the area and then wiping with a rag so the paint soaks into the cracks. To finish the job properly, the playfield would have to be clearcoated. The cracks are highlighted by the camera - they look fine in "person".
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Very nice work as always Nino. #*#
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Big Update !
I've cleaned or replaced the faulty GI and feature lamp sockets, and tested all the coils etc. Time to plug in the Solenoid Driver Board - and it worked first time. I have a few small issues to attend to, but I'll do that later - just some tarnished connector pins that are causing issues. Next I installed the lamp driver and sound board, with one display. Check all the voltages (especially 5VDC at TP1 on the SD), and then I'm going to TRY the spare altek I have. Great start - it works ! So I can do some testing, but I cannot play a game as I'm waiting on the remainder of the "custom" flipper rebuild kit.
I finished off the playfield, and took a few shots with the flash on and off. I didn't get too adventurous with my photography (like Evro's ^^^) !
So I will revert back to repairing the original MPU board, which has a faulty 2516 masked ROM. My Eprom Burner arrived yesterday = Perfect Timing !
Here are some pictures - and remember - whatever I can get my hands on that is new - I will. So it looks great because most of the parts are new !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20075.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20076.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20078.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20077.jpg)
:D
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Looks great. Can't wait to play it.
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Looking good Nino ^^^
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MPU Background and issues
The MPU is a -200 MPU which is very similar to the Bally -35 board with the exception that the -200 has a second 5101 Chip and it runs at a higher clock speed. It is a VERY stable board, and has far less hassles if you want to upgrade the board to using 2732K Eproms to replace the original masked ROMS.
The problem with the original masked ROMs is that they are no longer available, and when they are damaged, the only real fix is to replace them with Eproms. 2716K or 2732K are the options. For the Galaxy MPU, it had an issue whereby the board would be "locked on" every 10 reboots. The problem is typical of these boards if the ROM sockets are bad, component failure (one of the ROMs, PIA or CPU) or corrosion from the battery around the reset section.
For this particular board, the masked ROMs had brittle legs. One of the legs on U1 ROM was broken after I attempted to clean it with sandpaper. The only option was to upgrade the ROMs. I downloaded the ROMs from the Internet Pinball Database and combined them into one binary file. Then I used my Willem Programmer to program the new ROMs on to 2732K Eproms. Then next step was to set the correct jumpers on the MPU to accommodate 2732K Eproms. According to Clay's guide, the jumpers should be set to ;
E1-E2
E4-E5
E13-E15
E24-E25
E16-E18
E32-E33
E34-E35
The process to convert the original board is simple. Record the current jumper configuration. If it is a factory configuration, then this is the procedure to convert the board for 2732K Eproms ;
Remove E2-E3
Solder E1-E2
Remove E5-E7
Solder E4-E5
Remove E8-E9
Remove E12-E13
Solder E13-E15
Remove E19-E20
Remove E22-E25
Solder E24-E25
Remove E26-E28
Remove E29-E31
This will give you a configuration for a combined U1 + U2 on a 2732K Eprom, installed in the U2 Socket, and a combined U5 + U6 on a 2732K Eprom, installed in the U6 Socket
Completing this process gave me a bootable -200 board with new 2732K Eproms at U2 and U6
The problem of the boot sequence locking up once every 10 boots is still a problem. A neat little test it to short out pins 39-40 on the CPU. This simulates a RESET of the CPU, which is the same as the RESET signal from the reset circuit. It worked every time, and the real test was to have the reset work at the CPU when the board was locked. Time to "bite the bullet" and replace the Reset Circuit with a Corrosion Kit from GPE. I've done PLENTY of these in the past, so they are easy - and it is time to document it.
The MPU Board
Here's the Galaxy MPU board with the replacement Eproms installed. It boots 9/10 times. The battery is removed revealing only a small small amount of corrosion - but even the smallest amount can cause problems. I will be components in the reset section.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU094.jpg)
The Reset Section
In the picture below, you can just see evidence of the corrosion. R1, R3, Q1 and Q5. These will be the culprits, but rather than replace them, I always replace all components in this "corrosion zone". You can also see sections like the base of R12 - this is the start of a potential problem. The damage has been done.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU102.jpg)
CMOS RAM 5101
Rule of thumb - Wear a static wrist strap and use the correct tools to remove the 5101. DO NOT TOUCH THE LEGS. They are CMOS devices suseptible to static and they are easily damaged. I've done a few in the past. They are expensive and are fast becoming a rare part. Please be careful !
In the picture below I've removed the 5101 CMOS chips. I've prized the socket free of the board because I noticed some corrosion. The photo is not the greatest quality, but those pins ARE BADLY corroded. The clue was evident once the 5101 was removed. Even under the board, on the solder side, there was evidence of corrosion.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU103.jpg)
This is a poor picture - but it explains how to remove the legs without damaging the solder pads. Use a fine tipped soldering iron. Place the iron on the tip of the pin. Drop some solder on the iron / pin until you see the pin is moving free. GENTLY raise the pin out of the socket. You can use needle nose pliers. I use the iron because I've been using this technique for years on far worse boards.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU104.jpg)
All the components are removed by using a set of sidecutters to snip the components out of the board, and then using the fine tip on my iron with a manual solder sucker. I will be investing in a rework station soon.
Once all the components are removed, each hole needs to have the solder removed. Not too much heat. If they are stubborn and the solder won't heat up, then grab some 360 Grit sandpaper and sand off the corrosion to reveal the solder. Then remove the solder. Once this is all done, use 360 Grit to completely remove any old solder and remnants of corrosion. Grab a toothbrush and solution of 50/50 water and vinegar to neutralize the corrosion. Then wash the area with alcohol.
In the pictures below, I've already done this part of the repair, and installed the socket for the lower 5101.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU095.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU106.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU105.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU107.jpg)
Next we install the transistors, LED and Diodes. Notice I solder the top of the solder pads and the bottom. I Leave the components slightly raised so I can access the legs with a soldering iron.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU108.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU109.jpg)
Next are the Capacitors and Resistors. I reuse the inductors, as long as they are not affected by the corrosion, and I always replace J$ as the corrosion finds itself under the connector, causing all sorts of issues.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU110.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU096.jpg)
Battery Replacement
A cheap way of replacing the battery is to install a Lithium Calculator Battery. This solution was described to me by Skybeaux (Ken) a while ago, after he commented on my previous method of installing expensive memory capacitors. This is also an easier method
The holders are available from any electronics store ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU097.jpg)
It solders straight onto the board
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU100.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU098.jpg)
Just above the cavity for the old Battery - you just need to solder a jumper from the left hand solder pad, to the three holes (jumper not pictured)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU099.jpg)
Cut the trace between the old battery holes, and solder in a blocking diode (1n4007 will do). Install the battery and you are done !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU101.jpg)
Test the board on the test rig and it runs perfectly. I'll add to this thread when the board is mounted with new connectors etc..
<.>
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Amazing stuff. Thanks for that. I'll stick to playing pins rather than fixing them I think. I'll leave that to the experts like you. I struggle with a DMM let alone a board repair. You really have a knack for this stuff Nino. Well done on the great write-up.
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A cheap way of replacing the battery is to install a Lithium Calculator Battery. This solution was described to me by Skybeaux (Ken) a while ago, after he commented on my previous method of installing expensive memory capacitors. This is also an easier method
<.>
Nice work Nino - that board looks sweet. How much are the lithium batteries+holder? Caps are only around $5 and solder straight onto a MPU-200 as though they were made for it! On 100's and Bally's you need a short jumper wire.
cheers
Ian
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A cheap way of replacing the battery is to install a Lithium Calculator Battery. This solution was described to me by Skybeaux (Ken) a while ago, after he commented on my previous method of installing expensive memory capacitors. This is also an easier method
<.>
Nice work Nino - that board looks sweet. How much are the lithium batteries+holder? Caps are only around $5 and solder straight onto a MPU-200 as though they were made for it! On 100's and Bally's you need a short jumper wire.
cheers
Ian
Ian - I bought the batteries from eBay O/S - Hong Kong, I think. I don't recall how expensive they were. The holders were around a dollar.
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Update
All the parts that previously arrived have been installed - including a new On/Off Switch. The old once was simply too old. All machines I restore or recondition ALWAYS have new power cords installed - that is "a must".
I finished off the MPU and I've been busy repinning connectors - nothing exciting ! The original SD board had plenty of issues to deal with. I ended up replacing three TIP102, CA3081 and 74L154. The 74L154 had an problem whereby the Lower Left thumper was "on" at all times. The coil would burn out and cause issues with the corresponding TIP102. Thats all repaired and the original SD Board and MPU are functioning 100%.
Now I'm up to the flipper rebuild kit - which unfortunately has had a few issues. PBR send me the wrong bushings - so they are to be resent. Marco Spec sent me a "generic" plunger - not the correct size - BUT - It could work ! So I'll get back to that later.
The backglass needs to be sealed with Triple Thick - That's been done - and I have not taken pictures yet, because I was concentrating on getting the process done without distraction - I don't like working on Backglasses !!
The spinner has been painted white, but the paint is not to my liking. It is "soft" after 33 days drying - so maybe the paint coat was too thick ?
I'd say I'm 90% done. Very pleased so far - Pictures to follow tomorrow.
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Time for an update
The MPU is finished. Battery is installed and I replaced the pins that needed to be done.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20MPU%20Done.jpg)
The coin door was completed some time ago, but the coin chutes themselves were very rusted. I cleaned them on the wire wheel, primed them and then painted them with the same paint that I used for the rest of the door. They should be chrome, but I think it looks great "as is".
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Door1.jpg)
Drop Targets
The drop target bank needed a rebuild as the targets themselves were worn and the plunger was corroded beyond repair. I ordered a new plunger and coil sleeve. Heres some "before" pictures ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Drop1.jpg)
Bit of surface corrosion
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Drop2.jpg)
Everything is cleaned and buffed. New targets are ready to be installed
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Drop3.jpg)
After a couple hours work, we are finished !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Drop4.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Drop5.jpg)
Heres a progress picture of the cabinet of the machine. I picked up a new playfield glass off Dave (Silverball) that tony bought and installed it. Made a HUGE difference. Almost done !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Cabinet1.jpg)
:D
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Flipper Rebuild
I will cover this in detail in a thread of its own once I've finished the process, as there are some differences between my kit and the RGP Kit. I'm trying a different plunger. Marco listed them as being in stock when I ordered, but they sent me an equivalent.
Anyhow - What I'm trying to do is create a Stern Flipper Rebuild kit. Here's A picture of all the parts except the plungers and coil stops;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Flipper1.jpg)
Here's the original plunger and links. I don't think they are the only style of original plungers, as I've seen the link in bakerlite and plastic. The plungers are a little different than standard Gottlieb and Bally.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Flipper2.jpg)
Here is the plunger and link Marco sent me !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Flipper3.jpg)
The idea is to remove the pin and replace the link with the replacement from PBR.
Link replaced. Using a caliper, the difference is 1/18th of an inch. The plunger is 2 1/8 inch. They are very close in size.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Flipper4.jpg)
Here is the plunger, link, pawl etc mounted in the RHS flipper base. Coming along nicely !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Flipper5.jpg)
More to come tomorrow !
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I am loving this tread! Great work mate. I am fixing up an old stern Cosmic Princess at the moment and much of the info and pictures you have supplied have been very handy. Love your work, very neat, very tidy. I am very interested in the flipper rebuild as I am thinking that I may need to do this myself when I get the old girl up and running.
Cheers,
Dan
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Slight Digression from Flipper Rebuilds to the Backlgass !
The backglass was around a 7/10. Which is fairly good for a Galaxy - This is the better of the three Glasses I've seen for on machines I've restored. First of all, the channel was very rusted. The back of the glass was peeling in small section - but not flaking - yet. The top locking tabs were bent - and I cannot believe the glass did not break.
Here some "before" pictures of the glass ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Glass1.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20glass2.jpg)
Not too bad..
The first step was to clean the glass. Initially, some light compressed air to move the cobwebs ! Then just water and a cloth, then a cloth dampened in water and windex. some paint flaked - that is unavoidable. Now I had a flat surface to work with !
Sealing the Backglass
Bit of banter recently on the pros and cons of sealing a backglass. In this case - It HAD to be done to prevent further problems. I've never "lost" a backglass using this method.
First - we mask up all the score windows with low tack masking tape. Ensure you allow 1 mm inside the score window to be exposed to allow the Triple Thick to form a nice "barrier" to hold any flaking paint right on the border between the art and the window. You MUST do this, or when you cut out the masking tape - you will cut out the paintwork around the window.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Glass3.jpg)
Close Up - See how I've left a 1mm gap between the window and the art ?
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Glass4.jpg)
Next I use this method to apply Triple Thick
First coat is a light mist
Wait 10 minutes - But not too long or it dries
Second coat is a thick coat, running left to right
Wait 10 minutes
Third coat is a thick coat, running up and down
Leave the glass for at least 24 hours - no more than 48 hours
Third coat is a thin coat - left to right, then immediately up and down
Don't touch for 48 hours - at least !
I left this glass for a week before installing the cleaned plastic sides ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20glass5.jpg)
Backglass channel
Tony ordered the same set that Pinfan used. Easy to install as well. I used some electrical tape in four sections on the bottom of the glass. It was already quick thick, but the tape ensured the channel would be a tight fit. Here's a picture of the glass, tape and new channel ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Glass6.jpg)
30 seconds later - the channel is firmly in place ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Glass7.jpg)
Complete transformation - backglass looks much better ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20Glass8.jpg)
Almost done !
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Mate, you are my new hero!
What a great thread, on an awesome resto.
You go to amazing lengths to restore your pins, I'm blown away.
I'll definately be watching for when you have machines for sale if they're all like this. %$%
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I'll definately be watching for when you have machines for sale if they're all like this. %$%
He doesn't know how to do it any other way ! :D
Its coming up nice Nino... ^^^
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Mate, you are my new hero!
What a great thread, on an awesome resto.
You go to amazing lengths to restore your pins, I'm blown away.
I'll definately be watching for when you have machines for sale if they're all like this. %$%
Happy to share my progress and experience. Some aspects of the restorations are picked up from other members here and the Marvin's guide. The backglass channel installation was initially discussed on Pinfan's Star Trek Restoration - check that out.
I get my "kicks" when others post their restorations. The time I spend documenting and sharing my work here is returned when others buy their first machine or start their first restoration.
This aspect of pinball (restoration), is starting to really grow - there are more pinheads willing to get their hands "dirty". With 100's of pins coming into the country annually theres a lot of opportunity.
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N.O.S. ??
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GALAXY-UNPOPULATED-PLAYFIELD-COLLECTORS-PIECE_W0QQitemZ250503030890QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_15?hash=item3a5324e86a&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
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N.O.S. ??
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GALAXY-UNPOPULATED-PLAYFIELD-COLLECTORS-PIECE_W0QQitemZ250503030890QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_15?hash=item3a5324e86a&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Second hand - unpopulated.
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Here's the final update on the Stern Galaxy Restore.
I have decided to create a Tech thread (later on), on my findings of the "custom" Stern flipper Rebuild Kit, as there are a few issues that need to be sorted out - easier to do that it it's own thread, rather than buried in this one.
Flipper Rebuild
Here's a "gotcha" that I was caught on. The original stern bushings are no longer available. The replacements are VERY similar, but are longer. When ordering from PBR, I assumed they would be exactly the same - they are NOT ! PBR trim the excess to the same size 1 1/8. But the first order they were sent with - they were trimmed to 1 inch ! Too short. The next order - 1 1/16 ! So I had the bushings sent out un-trimmed. I cut them using my bench grinder with the stone wheel. I then used a hand file to get them square and 360 grit sandpaper to smooth out the edge that will make contact with the bottom of the flipper base = less friction. They end up looking like this ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20flipperkit1.jpg)
Next issue - The replacement coil stops from Marco Spec are not good - they have the mounting holes in the wrong spot ! I had to elongate the holes to fit ! Here's a picture of the completed kit installed
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20flipperkit2.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20flipperkit3.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20flipperkit4.jpg)
I've tested the kit for a wwk - no issues - VERY powerful. The game is FAST to begin with, but with the addition of this kit, the machine is EASILY, the fastest SS I've ever played. VERY pleased !
Completed Game
I'm simply testing the machine - remember this was sitting in a storage facility for ?? years - So everything needs to be checked. I leave the game on all day, and then find a display digit missing etc.. Everything has to be checked - so it is still in my Garage - getting played every day
Here are some final pictures - Note the original documentation (even the packing slip) have been laminated and stapled to the cabinet.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20cabfinshed1.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20cabfinshed2.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20cabfinshed3.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20cabfinshed4.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20cabfinshed5.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20cabfinshed6.jpg)
New owner will have it next week <.> <.>
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Looks great Nino!
Yes, it is hard to get parts for Stern flippers which is a shame, as when they are going properly they are the best feeling flippers from that era (in my opinion %$%). I agree that cutting your own bushings to the correct length is the way to go. I was lucky enough to get some NOS Stern coil stops, but before that I was considering changing the hole arrangement on the baseplate to accommodate the easy to find Bally coil stops.
Interesting that your Galaxy has the correct (stronger) 25-450 flipper coil. These are usually changed to the common 25-500 some time over the last 30 years!
Any classic Sterns in your new haul?
cheers
Ian
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Looks great Nino!
Yes, it is hard to get parts for Stern flippers which is a shame, as when they are going properly they are the best feeling flippers from that era (in my opinion %$%). I agree that cutting your own bushings to the correct length is the way to go. I was lucky enough to get some NOS Stern coil stops, but before that I was considering changing the hole arrangement on the baseplate to accommodate the easy to find Bally coil stops.
Interesting that your Galaxy has the correct (stronger) 25-450 flipper coil. These are usually changed to the common 25-500 some time over the last 30 years!
Any classic Sterns in your new haul?
cheers
Ian
I wish you were local Ian so you could have a few games - it is one of the best Sterns I've done (this is my third Galaxy). I might follow your suggestion when I restore my Flight 2000, as the "old style" Stern coil stops are not an exact fit. If there was no coil sleeve - then it would fit, and I didn't want to bend or modify the base plate unless I had spares. I used to simply remove the Stern hardware, and install Bally hardware - but I would rather use the Stern flipper assy.
No classic Sterns I'm afraid. I missed out on a Viper, which I would have loved !
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Came up sweet mate - and a really cool game to boot.
Now get off ya arse and get into the hundred or so of those beautiful EMs you have in storage *%*
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Hi all
does anyone know the size of the red rollover guides used in this game?
There are 6 in total
4 at top of playfield (3 large, 1 smaller)
2 at bottom near flipper lanes
Thanks
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Have you guys seen this before?
Galaxy Award Winning Short film by Bill Davern