The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Strangeways on October 18, 2010, 12:01:42 AM
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I've finally finished reconditioning several Video machines and it is time to move on to what I love the most - Pinball restoration !
A gem of a machine has been picked out - Bally "Aces High" - Produced in August 1965. This is the oldest titles from my EM/SS Container last year. I'm starting from the beginning ! I also have to restore a Bally "Star Jet" from around the same period. The MAJOR difference is that "Star Jet" is a two player title - and one of the first "multi Ball" games ever made, and "Aces High" is a four player. The Score motor is missing from the Star Jet, but they share the same motor (different Cams) - So I'm HOPING I can get the Aces High running and them use it as a reference for the Star Jet.
Objective
To restore the game to a working condition with as many replacement parts as possible. Cabinet will not be repainted, backglass is EXCELLENT for its age and the playfield is very good.
Condition
Playfield 7/10 - Dirty, with some wear around the flippers, but not directly caused by the flippers. The wear is above the flipper area. I suspect this was caused by the ball bouncing off the flippers. My contact or mylar. Plastics are intact and unbroken.
Backglass 9/10 - WOW - No lift, peel or scratches. A real find !
Cabinet - 8/10 - NICE - No need to repaint. Original and in excellent condition
Electrical - 5/10 - Needs major work. The score motor is seized, and there is a lot of work that needs to be done.
Initial pictures
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High1.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High2.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High3.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High4.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High5.JPG)
I anticipate that this restore will take a lot longer due to the fact that there is a lot of rework required. The game itself looks to be stored in a dry location for many years. It has the typical EM smell and luckily is void of the typical corrosive and damp smell of machine stored for significant periods of time. I'll guess at least 50 hours. But I'm keenly looking forward to this restore, and it will be restored in conjunction with the Star Jet and a couple of other titles.
So starts the journey !
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Love the 60's Ballys
Keep the updates coming.
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Great challenge ahead Nino.
Look forward to the progress posts.
J.D.
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Really looking forward to this Nino . How lucky are you to have a 1965 BG in that condition *%*
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Looks like a good starting point Nino and the backglass does look awsome. Enjoy that smell
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Really looking forward to this Nino . How lucky are you to have a 1965 BG in that condition *%*
One small scratch, which will be touched up. The machines were hand picked, so most of them are as good if not better ! I'm really happy with the overall condition. I think the most time will be spent in the around the score motor and reset section. All the fuse holders are weak and brittle. It did fire up, but obviously would not properly reset due to the score motor not turning.
Will be a fun restore. Planning in my head as we speak !
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Nice, look forward to following your restoration *%*
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I'll be watching with great interest
i love old school restores =)
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Wow Nino that looks nice-didn't really know Multi-ball started that early be interested to see this one come along. I better not annoy you for a while ^&^
Peter
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Multiball.... How far do you want to go back??
Like right back to the VERY first???
Read up on this... is pretty cool!
DUDLEY CLARK Co 1934 - LIVE POWER
http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=LIVE+POWER&sortby=name&searchtype=quick#1463
OR..... The first REALLY recognised multiball game
BALLY 1956 - BALLS A POPPIN
http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=balls+a+poppin&searchtype=quick#144
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First session on the Aces High.
I removed the playfield glass and had a look under the hood. Not too bad - But the rust was the first thing I noticed. Thankfully, it is mainly on the body parts and not on any mechanisms. Score motor is seized and will have to be stripped and rebuilt. I'm hoping the motor is ok, althouhj I have a boxful of potential replacements if needed. The inside of the cab is filthy. All parts are intact - nothing is missing.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20015.JPG)
First thing to do is remove all the fuses so I don't get tempted to power it on. I ended up just cutting the power cord off ! The baseboard is complete and all the placards etc are present. Luckily, I have the full set of paperwork for this machine. I did find the original "goody envelope" - and it was full of interesting pieces of history (more on that later). Here's a picture of the complete baseboard;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20016.JPG)
Here's the playfield glass removed to reveal a clean playfield. Notice the wear above the flippers. Plastics are intact. Overall, it looks to be a simple game, but being a card game, it will have appeal. Very pleased with the condition of the playfield for a machine of this vintage.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20017.JPG)
I've removed the baseboard from the game. This is where I want to start. I'll initially start on the score motor and get it working. Then the banks of relays. All contacts will have to be cleaned, adjusted (if needed) and rebuilt (if needed). I'm really itching to get started !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20018.JPG)
Updates may slow down a little as I'm going to be building a new benchtop this weekend !
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Now the fun starts ^^^
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Multiball.... How far do you want to go back??
Like right back to the VERY first???
Read up on this... is pretty cool!
DUDLEY CLARK Co 1934 - LIVE POWER
http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=LIVE+POWER&sortby=name&searchtype=quick#1463
OR..... The first REALLY recognised multiball game
BALLY 1956 - BALLS A POPPIN
http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=balls+a+poppin&searchtype=quick#144
Wow that's interesting about Multiball I suppose with the older games it just scored one ball at a time apposed to Solid state that had the ability to score as each ball hit a switch-I will check the history tommorow.
It always amazes me under the hood of an EM all those relays and contacts real scary :D for me
Peter
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Here's the plan ;
Scoremotor is siezed. There's YEARS of solidified grease and other lubricants that has binded the motor and gearbox.I'm not even going to force it. So I decided to completely strip it and bathe it in degreaser. If I cannot get the score motor to work then I'm in trouble !
All switch stacks are removed and clearly labelled. Obviously I've taken a few pictures before starting. THe score motor assembly is finally removed. I've cleaned it with an old paintbrush and degreaser. I was careful not to submerse the motor, just wash the gearbox in an old ice-cream container. When I'm done, use compressed air to clean out any residue. Then I clean the assembly with Isocol. I used compressed air to completely remove any trace of liquid. A couple of DROPS of machine oil (3 in 1) on the shafts - NOT ON THE COGS - they don't need any lubricant and NO GREASE !
After this step is complete, the gearbox moves freely - it is no longer sized. The ONLY problem I have is that the Cam will not prize off the gearbox. So the idea of using this motor in the Star Jet - is a mute point - cannot be done.
Here is a picture of the assembly post cleaning ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20020.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20021.JPG)
A HUGE improvement. If the score motor does not work - then the game cannot be restored in woring order. The plan is now to move ahead and test the 60VAC to this motor to ensure that it works 100%. Before I do that, I want to re install the assembly back into the baseboard, as the motor needs the "load" created by the friction of the switch stacks.
Now here is an important tip. When removing the switch stacks off a score motor assembly - you need a "system" to record what goes where. A digital camera is a great tool, but in some score motor assemblies, there are FOUR levels of stacks ! So you "peel" away at each stack and use some masking tape to label and record where each stack resides. Some stacks are divided - so use a piece of cardboard (or similar) to simulate the position on the assembly where the stack is separated.
I wrap masking tape around a stack so I don't lose any hardware and I can write the position of the stack. Here's an example ;
"3 TOP 2" = the topmost stack in between motor position "2" and "3" on the assembly"
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20022.JPG)
I've NEVER had an issue with this simple method. There are four positions, and four levels (max) that can reside on an assembly. Each machine will be different, but if you apply this logic - you can confidently rebuild a score motor.
More pictures - I've installed the lowel level of stacks, and I'm starting on the second level (from the top)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20026.JPG)
As I build the levels - I tighten the stacks. The closest screw to the contacts should be slightly tighter. Clean each set of contacts with a flextone file. Check the "Action" of the switch. Look for any loose wires.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20027.JPG)
The Baseboard
I like to "section off" the baseboard. That way, it is not so daunting. I've started with the score motor assembly area. Before I start, I cblow away all the dust and crap with compressed air. I then clean with a dry rag, and then I spray on some "Mr Sheen" on a rag and clean the wooden area. It will look a LOT better - takes no time at all !
I also clean the jones plug sockets and look for anything loose that needs attention ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20023.JPG)
The fuse block HAS to go. The fuse clips are (literally), older than I am. I also will be re wiring a new power cable, so ALL fuse clips will be replaced with a more modern alternative;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20024.JPG)
Hopefully I will have the new cable, plug, fuse holders and anything else replaced so that I can apply power to the Score Motor and test this machine !
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This one should be interesting - I can see the appeal of the EMs even though I am a bigger fan of SS and DMD, and this one looks like it could be a worthwhile player when finished.
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Looks really good and will be an interesting resto to follow. If I can make one gentle criticism could you use a new fuse holder that is sympathetic to the age of the machine? If new replacements aren't available could you use new clips on the old bit of the fuse holder maybe?
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Looks really good and will be an interesting resto to follow. If I can make one gentle criticism could you use a new fuse holder that is sympathetic to the age of the machine? If new replacements aren't available could you use new clips on the old bit of the fuse holder maybe?
Agreed ! The newer fuse housings will be used only for testing. They belong in sys4-6 etc - not EMs *%*
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Looks really good and will be an interesting resto to follow. If I can make one gentle criticism could you use a new fuse holder that is sympathetic to the age of the machine? If new replacements aren't available could you use new clips on the old bit of the fuse holder maybe?
Agreed ! The newer fuse housings will be used only for testing. They belong in sys4-6 etc - not EMs *%*
Hmmm .. Obviously I am not as purist as some of you , I am putting new fuse holders in my EM's as I restore/reco them. #@#
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One step forward, and two steps back.
I replaced the fuse holders and installed new fuses. Recabled the game and checked that the transformer was wired for 240V (more on that later)..
The aim was to test the score motor with the baseboard plugged in on my bench. All I need is 50VAC and one switch on the score motor to be closed and it should turn..
But it was SLUGGISH and CRAP !!! !!!
Looks like the motor just does not have the grunt anymore. But it measures 6 ohms, so it should be OK ? I jumpered straight off the transformer - still no good. I ended up speaking to Gavin, who suggested I send it off to his Dad in the UK for a rebuild. That was good news - at least I know I CAN get it going.
But I kept thinking that the word "friction" may be playing a part in this. To prove that it was a problem due to excessive friction (even though I had degreased and cleaned the unit), I decided that I HAD to dismantle the gearbox. But to do that, I needed to remove the Cam. It took me a while - But I DID remove it !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20028.JPG)
Now I'm looking at the shaft which would be attached to the cam and it has some rust. Considering it was siezed to the cam, there could be a chance that the main shaft was also rusted and causing friction.. The only way to find out - was to remove the rivets holding the gearbox together. The drill press made light work of that !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20029.JPG)
Here's a picture of the gearbox disassembled. Note the casing on the left and the hole where the main shaft (to the cam) is located. There is meant to be a brass collar fitted. Look at the main shaft (center of the picture) - There's THE brass collar ! The collar has effectively siezed tightly on the shaft. It is supposed to allow the rotation of the main shaft - and be FIXED to the casing ! But this gearbox was so badly maintained that the brass collar was not doing it's job. The fact the main shaft WAS rotating, was because the MOVEMENT was the shaft/brass collar against the casing !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20030.JPG)
Here is a close up of the main shaft and the brass collar after I spent 20 minutes removing it. On the LEFT of the gear, you can see the collar (removed). But look on the shaft - the left side of the gear has signs of rust and pitting.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20032.JPG)
I cleaned the collar and shaft with degreaser and then alcohol. A green scotchbrite was required to remove the rust and gunk that had built up. I finished with 600 Grit wet/dry on the shaft and also within the collar. I placed the collar over the shaft and it moves perfectly. It is then installed into the reassembled gearbox as a test, and now the motor gearbox works just as it did when it was first built. I've replaced the rivets with longer bolts and screw just as a test, to ensure everything works - so it is only temporary.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20033.JPG)
Here's the cam installed. I can move the cam with my pinky, and it is very smooth in its operation !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20034.JPG)
I just need to replace the bolts and refit to the machine.
So there ya go - a full score motor and gearbox rebuild !
^^^
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That was great to see Nino each time I have seized score motor I take one look at them rivets and get scared off. Maybe next time I'll have a gonat rebuilding one. What bolts do you use to hold it all back together?
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That was great to see Nino each time I have seized score motor I take one look at them rivets and get scared off. Maybe next time I'll have a gonat rebuilding one. What bolts do you use to hold it all back together?
Whatever is lying around in my big box of bolts ! I'm going to have a look if bunnings have something that will suffice.
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That was great to see Nino each time I have seized score motor I take one look at them rivets and get scared off. Maybe next time I'll have a gonat rebuilding one. What bolts do you use to hold it all back together?
Whatever is lying around in my big box of bolts ! I'm going to have a look if bunnings have something that will suffice.
Looks like the original rivets were brass?
If you want it to look original you could make replacement rivets yourself by getting some brass rod the size of the original rivet .
Make the rivet about 2mm each end longer than the width of the housing and drill a small hole in each end about a mm smaller than the diameter of the shaft.
You can then peen each end with a centre punch (placed in the drilled holes) to roll the rivet out to create a flange.
Once it starts to flare out use a flat ended punch to flatten it out a bit and create a tight join.
Just be careful not to beat the hell out of it as you don't want to split your casing!
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So the bearing spun in the casing? Are they plain brass bearings?
If you are going to make one - I would try a self lubricating bush? (Called Sullube from memory)
Much better - bronze with a graphite type lube in-bedded with the steel.
You don't need to lube these things at all...
Like here - http://www.lubroglide.com/
Local bearing shop will have them in all sorts of sizes.
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Great job saving that motor Nino ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^
it always scared me the thought of having to rebuild one of these things, i've been real lucky so far and havent had to touch the score motor on any EM i have ever worked on!!
Looking forward to further updates, Will you do anything with the little bit of wear you have just above the flippers?
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Thanks a lot for sharing that with us Nino . I think, as others have said, seeing your detailed pictures and description will give confidence to anyone faced with a similar problem. I reckon you should add a "Score motor rebuild" thread to the Hint and Tips section so it doesn't get lost over time.
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So the bearing spun in the casing? Are they plain brass bearings?
If you are going to make one - I would try a self lubricating bush? (Called Sullube from memory)
Much better - bronze with a graphite type lube in-bedded with the steel.
You don't need to lube these things at all...
Like here - http://www.lubroglide.com/
Local bearing shop will have them in all sorts of sizes.
It is a brass collar, just made of tubing. It fills the distance between the top of the casing and the shaft. The collar is supposed to bind to the casing and allow the shaft to rotate. What had happened, was the collar became bound to the shaft, and rotated against the casing. very sluggish. It is not a bearing (as such) but is works like one.
Great job saving that motor Nino ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^
it always scared me the thought of having to rebuild one of these things, i've been real lucky so far and havent had to touch the score motor on any EM i have ever worked on!!
Looking forward to further updates, Will you do anything with the little bit of wear you have just above the flippers?
Not sure yet, Mitch. The rest of the playfield is ok. Any suggestions ?
Thanks a lot for sharing that with us Nino . I think, as others have said, seeing your detailed pictures and de******ion will give confidence to anyone faced with a similar problem. I reckon you should add a "Score motor rebuild" thread to the Hint and Tips section so it doesn't get lost over time.
Once I'm done, I will add more pictures and create a seperate thread ^^^
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Thanks for showing this - as others have said, seeing it detailed out in this way gives others confidence to have a go themselves.
Also to me I really like the way pins combine a few skills; electrics, electronics, mechanical and cosmetic stuff.
Hmmm .. Obviously I am not as purist as some of you , I am putting new fuse holders in my EM's as I restore/reco them. #@#
Nothing wrong with new fuse holders, desirable I'd say, but just make them match the age and materials of the machine. PBR have an old looking one part number is fus-hldr
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My challenge was to think of a way to replace the brass rivets. The rivet diameter is 3/16 of an inch, and I had no bolts that were 3/16 and long enough. Using thinner bolts that were of sufficient length was a bad experiment, as the motor coil itself had to be perfectly positioned to enable it's "clutch" to engage. I tried re using the rivets, with a bolt of thinner diameter, fed through the rivet. No good, as the head of the bolt protruded against the motor housing. I found an old motor lying around and something really interesting caught my attention - the cut end of the rivet was threaded and a small bolt was used - not bad - but when I triend it - it was too loose.
Off to bunnings.
Within 5 minutes I found the EXACT bolt that would do the job - and it was BRASS. Cost me $3.20 for four (in a pack). Theses are PERFECT - 3/16 AND countersunk, so that the top of the gearbox housing if flush with it's assembly. Absolutely stoked !
In the picture below, I've fitted two bolts already. I used a washer and did a test run. The alignment was "spot on"
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20035.JPG)
Countersunk head - and the old rivets;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20036.JPG)
The bottom of the casing ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20037.JPG)
Motor and Cam installed. I switched the game on and closed a switch to activate the score motor and it works flawlessly. I had already cleaned and filed all the contacts.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20038.JPG)
The Big Reward !
I thought I'd be a "smart ass" and drop the baseboard into the machine to test the score motor and get an idea of what my next road block would be. I connected everything to the baseboard and head. Switched the game on and tapped the flipper button. Game switched on - cool ! There were credits up, so I dropped the ball into the ball drain and hit the start button. She sprung to life ! Score reels worked feverishly and finally made it to ZERO for all four players, Ball 1 Light came on and she served the ball ! I tapped the flippers - both worked.. I plunged the ball and she started scoring. In fact - the game was very much playable. There were a few minor issues, like stuck switches and sloppy score reels, but I couldn't care less - you could not wipe the smile off my face. It was like someone had thrown a bucket of cold water over me on a 45 Degree hot day - I was completely relieved and I felt like a kid again !
The more I played it, the less faults were persisting - It was fixing itself ! Try doing that with a DMD ! This game is FOURTY FIVE YEARS OLD - and is 90% in working order. The cobwebs were winding around the steppers in the backbox. This game has not been played for 10 - 20 years. I think I played it for a solid 30 minutes. It is slow and plods along. But it works ;
Here's a picture of the machine in "almost working" condition - playable !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20039.JPG)
Here's Zac having a couple of games. He is 6 years old and simply loves these games
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20040.JPG)
A VERY rewarding moment for me - yes - took a weekend to rebuild a siezed score motor, but seeing my son playing this game made it all worth it.
This is what Pinball is all about.
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Top Stuff Nino ^^^ Congrats
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far out - aint that cool. My Bingo Bango did exactly the same - sprung into life after sitting since 85 or so. EM's are just bloody magic - ya gotta love em. So pleased for you mate.. i know exactly how you are feeling right now!
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...great work on the score motor. You gotta love it when a plan comes together.
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Nice work mate, great feeling when you get a game working after a bit of hard work *%*
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Great work Nino!
Plenty of patience.
J.D.
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well done Nino,
gotta love it when things work out =)
looking forward to the rest of the restore ^^^
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Like your overhaul of the score motor.
Great resto thread.
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wish I understood these a little better, seems like a lot of fun to work on :)
Just not sure I'd enjoy playing them long term...
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Great job as usual Nino i wonder if an ultrasonic bath may have loosened the score motor up !@#
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Time for a quick update. The main part of this update is the completion of the baseboard. As I've mentioned befoare - it looks complicated, but if each section is attended to in isolation, you can quickly move through and find problems as you clean and adjust. There are three "trip relays" on this machine. There's a large coil that resets each bank. These trip relays need to be cleaned and adjusted. A quick inspection, and within a few minutes, a couple of problems are blatantly obvious. Here's a couple of pictures I've taken, and you should see the problem here ;
What I've done is manually reset this trip relay ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20041.JPG)
EM guys with their trained eye would spot it a mile away ;
That final switch stack (furtherest from the camera), is in the reset position, yet the top contact is still open - it should be closed !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20042.JPG)
So the FIRST thing to do - and this step is important - is to test the tension on this stack - because that will tell us a lot about this machine. If it is nice and tight, then this machine will be easy to make adjustments, if it is loose (and more stacks are loose) then it means the game has seen a lot of moisture and the backerlite in the stacks will have shrunk over time. Luckily for me - it was tight - and I ensure I go through EVERY stack and tighten any loose screws ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20043.JPG)
I can then adjust this switch stack
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20044.JPG)
Then I test its action to make sure the contacts make a proper connection when reset, and open when that relay activates.
I've removed the dual trip relays. SIX relays per assembly, - they are seperate units, but mounted in the same frame. Next to my screwdriver is my flexstone file. I go through 2 - 3 of these per game. First I use compressed air (not too much pressure), and then a business card cut into strips. I go through EVERY set of contacts with the cut business card first, then I use the flextone file. I inspect that I can see a clean set of contacts, then I test the action of the trip relay to make sure everything is working correctly. At the same time, I clean the tie rods (horizontal bars), the rest arm and all other moving parts with alcohol.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20045.JPG)
After I've completed all three trip relays, I move on to the other smaller relays, and I find this gem of a problem;
Where my finger is - there's a broken contact. I will replace this later, but it pays to visually check each unit for problems like this !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20046.JPG)
Next we move on to the Advance unit and this simply does not work at all !
It has had a very hard life and the coil looks to be well and truly cooked, and it has melted the plastic plunger arm !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20047.JPG)
The unit is dismantled, and I can see the plastic plunger has melted ! Luckily, I had a box of hundreds of EM NOS parts, and as luckily, I had one EXACT replacement !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20048.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20049.JPG)
So I replaced it !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20050.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20051.JPG)
Next update will be the assembled Advance unit !
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Great update Nino with plenty of great advice. Specially the tight switch stacks my first Em had a few loose stacks so I'd adjust the contacts play a few games then problems adjusted again played a few games then bam. No Internet in those days so when I decided to pull the stack apart noticed they were loose as a goose never played up again.
As for the NOS plastic plunger all I can say is only you Nino only you
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Great update Nino with plenty of great advice. Specially the tight switch stacks my first Em had a few loose stacks so I'd adjust the contacts play a few games then problems adjusted again played a few games then bam. No Internet in those days so when I decided to pull the stack apart noticed they were loose as a goose never played up again.
As for the NOS plastic plunger all I can say is only you Nino only you
+1 As always Nino - top reading.
Daniel: What? You don't have one in a box somewhere? <.>
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Not NOS
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Great update Nino . Some good tips there .
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i love the detail you put into your updates Nino, well done
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i love the detail you put into your updates Nino, well done
+1
and many thanks
J.D.
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I have a complaint...
that open contact on the switch stack was the very top set of contacts... this NEVER happens.. any EM tech knows that its ALWAYS the very bottom most difficult to get to and adjust set!
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I have a complaint...
that open contact on the switch stack was the very top set of contacts... this NEVER happens.. any EM tech knows that its ALWAYS the very bottom most difficult to get to and adjust set!
Very good point Gav and how true. *%*
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Some Cabinet work
Taking a bit of a break from the task of rebuilding and adjusting switch stacks, I thought I'd start work on the cabinet. I think the cabinet is excellent for a machine that is older than I am ! Artwork is simply and intact. Webbing looks to be a bit more "crazy" than a Gottlieb of the same era. I think it will scrub up really well. The plan is to strip everything, treat the corrosion, repair the cabinet where required, and repaint the front door.
The front door has some nasty scratches in it. I will use the hammer finish paint that I use on Stern front doors. It seems to be the same. Here's a "before" picture of the door and front of the cabinet ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20054.JPG)
Off comes all the hardware, to reveal the original paintwork.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20057.JPG)
In this picture, I've used Nifti and a green scotchwhite pad, working it in softly on the LEFT side only - just to see how clean I can get it without affecting the paintwork. Since it is all really the basecoat, it is fairly straight forward.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20059.JPG)
Years of dirt are cleaned off - very easily with a scotchbrite and Nifti.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20056.JPG)
Stripped cabinet - ready for cleaning. First, it needs a vacuum !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20058.JPG)
In order to be able to have the game on legs, I have to remove and treat the leg plates. These are corroded (more surface rust than anything else). First I clean them with a wire wheel on my buffer, then I drop them in a small container with RANEX. I swear by this product for doing this kind of work.
In the picture below, I have the four leg plates. The plate on the far right is finished. The two in the centre are untreated and straight from the machine. The fourth has been cleaned with the wire wheel and dropped straight into the RANEX, and you can see the immediate reaction. I leave it in the container for no more than 5 minutes, then I drop it straight into another container of Water mixed with windex. Dry the part, then you can use a scotchbrite to shine it up a bit before polishing it. They can be nickel plated using Beaky's methods - which I will try later on.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20060.JPG)
After the cabinet is cleaned, I refit the leg plates so I can continue with the machine on its legs
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20061.JPG)
The cabinet needed some repairs. I used Liquid nails and a couple of blocks of wood. Leave for 2 days and it will be stable once more.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20062.JPG)
$#$
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That's cleaning up well Nino and yor right about the webbing that's pretty full on would be a mission reproducing that
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Amazing how good the paintwork was underneath all that dirt .
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Really enjoying this restore,
Look forward to the updates Nino ^^^
Timbo
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Great Work ^^^ Love to see those old EM's come back to life. Do you plan on repainting the cabinet & BB or leave as original as possible ?
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Great Work ^^^ Love to see those old EM's come back to life. Do you plan on repainting the cabinet & BB or leave as original as possible ?
Cabinet remains "as is" - I have some photos of the sides, and there is only a slight color fade in the "blues". The paintwork is in excellent and original condition. I only repaint if it needs to be done.
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looking good Nino!
Some enthusiasts keep finishing one part (area) before moving on but I find if Í dont get some variation, I get bored or bogged down.
Just got to remember where all the pieces go!
J.D.
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Wish I could find something that works like Ranex.. that stuff looks awesome!
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Wish I could find something that works like Ranex.. that stuff looks awesome!
John - I settled on Ranex after looking for a similar product to "Lightning Rust Remover". Seems that it is not as readily available in Australia, so after trying several products with limited success, I fould Ranex and I SWEAR by it these days !
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Wish I could find something that works like Ranex.. that stuff looks awesome!
According to the label it contains 345 mL/ L of phosphoric acid, maybe that will help locate an equivalent?
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This restore took the back seat as I completed the garage. now that I've finished that task, I'm back to restoring this game. This next step is often considered "boring" and can be somewhat difficult. The SIDE RAILS ! These must be removed, regrained and new nails be installed. These Ballys have a metal playfield glass channel - not plastic - and they become rusted. The telltale sign is a "grinding" noise when removing the glass and scratches on the glass edges. There's no way around it - the side rails must come off and the channel needs to be treated.
Siderail removal
Not that hard when you think about it. This is the method I've used (on and off) for years. The aim is to remove the nail intact AND more importantly - NOT scratch the siderail.
The first thing to do is place packing tape directly on the siderail, covering the nail head. Place a second piece of tape over the top and cut out the head with a sharp knife.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/aces%20high%20063.JPG)
Use an OLD or cheap chisel to pry the head of the nail - go around the diameter of the nail head and you may need to go around a few times to dislodge the nail and raise it slightly.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/aces%20high%20064.JPG)
View from above - the head is raised
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/aces%20high%20066.JPG)
I use an old pair of sidecutters for the next step. Place the sidecutters behind the head, and squeeze while turning counter clockwise. The tape will form a barrier between the siderail and the sidecutters. You MAY scratch the siderail while doing this - try not to - and use more tape if required. The head will raise with the counter clockwise movement.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/aces%20high%20067.JPG)
At this stage, the head is well and truly raised, and the only scratching is on the tape.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/aces%20high%20068.JPG)
Now I use a pair of pliers. Simply place the pliers over the head, but NOT pressing against the siderail, and turn counter clockwise. It should turn and raise. DON'T PULL THE NAIL OUT ! TURN IT ! It will come out easy. If you rip out the nail, then there will be no wood for the new nail to "grab". Side rail nails are NOT standard nails - they have a thread, much like a screw. Pulling them out is simply not the right way to do it.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/aces%20high%20069.JPG)
ZERO damage to the siderail and a clean removal of the nail
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/aces%20high%20070.JPG)
Side rail is not removed and you can see the rusted channel. This rust scratches the playfield glass. It needs to be addressed.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/aces%20high%20071.JPG)
Out comes the Dremel with the correct bit to remove the rust. I covered the inside of the machine and spend some time removing the rust from the channel. I finished off the removal by treating it with Ranex and then a red scotchbrite pad. It is very smooth and ready for the siderail to be re installed.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/aces%20high%20072.JPG)
A progress picture of the rust removal and the results. To the right, is the completed section.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/aces%20high%20073.JPG)
The left side of the machine is completed and ready for the siderail.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/aces%20high%20074.JPG)
Why do I regrain the siderails and not "polish" them ? Because they are NOT polished from factory. They are GRAINED. I remove the siderails and REGRAIN them. This is easy - Lay the siderail on a flat surface, grab some 180 Grit wet/Dry and windex (don't use the cheap window cleaner) and use a block of wood with the 180 Grit and slide back and forth in a straight line. Do this several times and then clean with windex and a rag. It will remove most scratches and the machine looks "Factory".
Here's the right side regrained with new siderails ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/aces%20high%20075.JPG)
When fitting the new nails, use PVC wood glue and toothpicks to fill the hole and gently tap the nails in. Place a block BEHIND the nail (inside of the cabinet) when hammerring the nail.
That's it ! Next update will be the legs / door / lock down bar assembly - stay tuned !
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Nice work with the nail removal good step by step with no damage must try that method next time. I normally use the wood chisel and a hammer approach then drill and plug the cabinet yours looks much easier.
Also didn't know about the steel glass channel ante there any other games rant use this?
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Nice work with the nail removal good step by step with no damage must try that method next time. I normally use the wood chisel and a hammer approach then drill and plug the cabinet yours looks much easier.
Also didn't know about the steel glass channel ante there any other games rant use this?
Ballys of this era 60's - not sure about the Gottliebs.
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Had a bit of a setback with the updates - my NEW camera "somehow" became submerged in water ^&^ so I've reverted back to my old one. Thankfully, I didn't have too many pictures lost - just the lockdown bar assembly repair.
I've also been experimenting with the Zinc plating kit - I'll get to that a bit later. There's heaps to update on this restoration *%*
The Head !
Very heavy head (4 player - so more scorewheels and a couple extra steppers). I've removed the mechanical board and the instruction cards. There's quite a few in this machine and all are intact. I scan them and then either laminate the originals, or reproduce them. I prefer to keep the originals IF they are in good condition.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20076.JPG)
The channel is removed, cleaned and returned to the machine
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20077.JPG)
Here is the "before" shot of the mechanicals. I will be strippng EVERY single moving part. There are 16 scorereels to clean and replace the coil sleeves. Scorereel coil sleeves are plastic. All other coils have the brass sleeves and as long as they are not worn, they will be re used. The coils on these older machine have their sleeves as part of the coil - they cannot be replaced. If you attempt to remove the sleeve, the coil will fall apart. This is also the same deal on Bally Bingos.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20078.JPG)
(http://Player Up Unit)
Even though the game was almost playable, it rarely advanced to player 3 or 4. That is a direct result of this unit being sluggish. As will all units, it needs to be rebuilt. It is important to take photos of the unit in the "home" position on these style steppers as it simply won't work properly after re assembly.
Notice I've marked the bakerlite where the wiper blades are positioned in the "home" position. It is deliberately "offset" slightly. But this appears to be correct.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20079.JPG)
Another important thing to remember - count the number of turns on the spring when the unit is in the "home" position. It is usually 2 - 3 turns.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20080.JPG)
Unit coils and switch stacks removed and it is on the bench for further disassembly;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20081.JPG)
Here's the unit rebuilt and re installed into the machine. Works very well !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20082.JPG)
Scorereel rebuild
This is fairly repetitive work, but is easily done if you take your time and don't try to rush things ! These are the steps required to rebuild a Bally Scorereel assembly ;
Here is a scorereel removed from it's "cage" %.% Notice is it a very simple design, and I think it is a more serviceable and reliable unit than most scorereel assemblies from Williams and Gottlieb. I much prefer working on these. The assembly consists of the score "reel" with the numbers on it, a plunger / link, spring, coil, cog and the bakerlite board. The contacts have three sets of switches. The middle set are normally closed from "1"-"8". The top set are closed at "0", and the bottom set are closed at "9". The coil pulls the plunger which advances the unit. There's a set of wiper blades on the cog which follows the scorereel position so the machine knows how many times it needs to advance.
This score reel is set to "0"
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20083.JPG)
Step 1 - Remove the switch stack and the coil stop
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20084.JPG)
Step 2 - Remove the clip and the three screws that hold the scorereel in place. Notice a registration "nib" that ensures the score reel itself is returned in the correct position. Remove the spring ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20085.JPG)
Step 3 - Remove the small clip, spring and two actuator arms. Remove the cog, which is done by moving the plunger back
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20086.JPG)
Step 4 - All the parts are ready to be cleaned. I use Nifti for the plastic parts, windex for the metal. Toothbrush is handy ! Use a scotchbrite to clean the bakerlite. I use compressed air to dry everything out. For FILTHY and gummed parts - drop the moving parts into a small tub of degreaser.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20087.JPG)
Parts cleaned - Don't use Novus 2 on the yellow scorewheel - it WILL remove the black ink
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20088.JPG)
Bakerlite is cleaned with alcohol and a scotchbrite pad
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20089.JPG)
Reassemble in the reverse order that we used to disassemble. Note the two actuator arms are a bit hard to install, just make sure that they are oriented the correct way ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20090.JPG)
Replace the coil sleeve, clean the coil, refit the coil stop and switch stack. Test that the switches are cleaned and gapped. Should be ready to go !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20091.JPG)
Here's a comparison between a rebuilt and dirty scorereel assembly
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20092.JPG)
Here's the progress - 12 down and 4 to go !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20093.JPG)
More coming later today !
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Do you use that teflon grease on the copper tracks of the bakerlite board that pinrepair talks about?
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Do you use that teflon grease on the copper tracks of the bakerlite board that pinrepair talks about?
I use "3 in 1" machine oil (Bunnings). Only just a drop on your finger tip, and spread it around the bakerlite.
Thanks for picking that up - I totally forgot ^^^
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Great detail, Nino; this will definitely help anyone else embarking on a similar job.
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Great detail, Nino; this will definitely help anyone else embarking on a similar job.
Correct Andrew - and hopefully it will give some confidence to "EM Newbies" to know that it is not that hard. It is a LOT more involved than a DMD in terms of time, but on the other hand, the playfields are very simple !
As promised, more "catch up" on this restoration. As I keep mentioning, I have 100's of NOS EM parts from "the old days". There are still boxes of stuff I need to go through, but I thought I'd digress on this for a moment. There was another example of a broken plunger and shaft. I'm not sure how "available" these are, but I'm lucky, I have a few spares !
Here's the broken plunger off one of the scorereel assemblies, and it's replacement - it might be a bit dusty, but it is genuine NOS ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20094.JPG)
It came from this box of 20 - 30 !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20095.JPG)
I spoke to my Father last week, and he cannot recall the titles of 60's Bally EMs he operated, which was a bit of a letdown, but he was happy the part was going into a machine !
Here's some shots of the other stepper units I had to rebuild ;
Pop Bumper Unit
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20096.JPG)
Credit Unit
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20097.JPG)
Here's a picture of all units rebuilt - thats 16 scorereels and four steppers. The unit in the middle is the Match Unit. The repays in the lower corner were also cleaned and rebuilt. Basically, this is the head mechanicals taken care of.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20098.JPG)
Close up of the Mathc Unit with the bell etc - These are usually removed from European EMs ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20099.JPG)
All of the cards from the game were carefully removed (where possible), and I've given them a quick clean, and laminated them. They might be pushing 46 years old, but I didn't want them to deteriorate any further. I've also sent scans of these to Peter to keep for his website.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20100.JPG)
Have a look at the condition of the backglass, and the masking used. Instead of silver, it is black. The backglass is not glass, it is similar to perspex. I have not seen this on an EM Pinball (Bingos - Yes). The condition is simply immaculate. The cards have been stapled to the headbox ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20101.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20102.JPG)
I've logged over 100 hours on this game so far, but when I stood back and took these photos, I was completely satisfied !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20103.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20104.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20105.JPG)
.. and the front of the backglass ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20106.JPG)
Next update will involve my INITIAL experimentation with the "Janes Zinc / Nickel plating kit" - I bought the full set with the power supply etc for some DIY plating.
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Wow, looking really good. The next instalment should be very interesting.
I will have to drop in and check this out one day/evening.
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WOW thats lookn sweet as!! ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ coming along real nice Nino
The backglass looks in nice nick too. Ive never seen one with the black mask on the back rather than silver, (heard of them but hadn't seen one til now)
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Amazing work Nino, looks great ^^^
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Looks really good and thanks for the detailed picture.
Do you make any attempt to clean the cloth wrapped wiring harnesses? The best I can do is to vacuum them with a brush attachment, but it's not that successful. I'd be scared to wet them. Anyone have any thoughts or methods?
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Excellent attention to detail as usual Nino .
This game is going to look excellent when you have finished it.
Looking forward to the next instalment .
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Wow, looking really good. The next instalment should be very interesting.
I will have to drop in and check this out one day/evening.
No problems Andrew, garage is open just about every day !
Looks really good and thanks for the detailed picture.
Do you make any attempt to clean the cloth wrapped wiring harnesses? The best I can do is to vacuum them with a brush attachment, but it's not that successful. I'd be scared to wet them. Anyone have any thoughts or methods?
I use a damp cloth with a bit of nifti. Sometimes the results are OK, but I never aggressively clean the wiring as the insulation is cloth anyway. I find that compressed air works best.
Thanks for the kind words !
Next up will be the hardware I zinc plated with some amazing results !
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I promise I will document the process I used with the "Jane's Zinc plating kit" - I've been learning the process most of this week, and I've made plenty of mistakes along the way but I've finally got some results.
But before I start, the back door panel needed the finishing touch - a quick repaint ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20107.JPG)
The front door has been repaired and refinshed - here's the "before" and "after" - I used the same Silver Hammertone paint I use on Stern Doors
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20054.JPG)
Bolts are also polished and I need to punch in the nails across the top bracket (same as siderail nails)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20112.JPG)
Back on page 1 or 2 - there was a picture of the lockdown Bar assembly. I've used Ranex and hard yakka to remove the corrosion. It is too big to plate, but I DID plate the coin entry plates - they really shine well, and there's a sneak peak into the inside of the door !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20111.JPG)
Here's the results on learning the Zinc plating process on the inside section of the door. I chose these parts as they were corroded and were zinc plated to begin with. If it didn't succeed, then it was not to be seen anyway. Here's what it looked like BEFORE I started ;
Rust, corrosion and ugly !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20108.JPG)
Here are the results as of tonight ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20109.JPG)
All the metal parts are zinc plated, and then quickly polished.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20110.JPG)
That's just a "sneal peek" - some other parts turned out AMAZING, but I just had to post an update with the parts installed. I will elaborate the process in its own thread, as I'm still learning as I go !
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Great work as usual Nino these old girls do take plenty of time but the results are well worth it and this game will most likely run without fault forever.
I have a Chicago Coin backglass called fire cracker which isnt made from glass either and is in perfect condition aswell is a shame they didnt make more like this.
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Brilliant work Nino.
Looks a million bucks!
J.D.
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The zinc plating looks great.
Where can the plating kits be purchased ?
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The zinc plating looks great.
Where can the plating kits be purchased ?
http://www.janekits.com.au/prices.php
Dual Kit Nickel/Zinc (4 Lt) $ 310.00
Cleaning Kit (Parts Wash and Jane Clean) $15.00
Courier delivery $15.00
I will be doing a full thread covering the process - It took me a while to get good results as the manual was a bit difficult to follow. I called John a few times just to clarify a few points and now it is plating very well.
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The zinc plating looks great.
Where can the plating kits be purchased ?
http://www.janekits.com.au/prices.php
Dual Kit Nickel/Zinc (4 Lt) $ 310.00
Cleaning Kit (Parts Wash and Jane Clean) $15.00
Courier delivery $15.00
I will be doing a full thread covering the process - It took me a while to get good results as the manual was a bit difficult to follow. I called John a few times just to clarify a few points and now it is plating very well.
Great info, looking forward to the thread. I've added a link to their web site to the Technical Links page http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=5548.msg77384#msg77384
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Moving on to the playfield
Some challenges with the playfield restoration that I need to consider. As a general rule of thumb, I prefer to leave EMs rather than have the artwork restored and then sealed with a clearcoat. I see how it progresses, but my main area of concern is around the flipper, sling and bumpers. This playfield has NO mylar, so it has had 46 years worth of wear ! But inserts etc look good, and I'm very pleased with the condition of the playfield.
Here's the start of the teardown ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20113.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20114.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20115.JPG)
Don't know if it is clear enough, but there are solid "pimples" of dirt in areas - very hard to lift of the surface. I had to use a plastic blade to remove most of it.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20116.JPG)
Here's some VERY pleasing results after HOURS of trying every product in my garage ! The BLUE and WHITE sections are completed. The YELLOW is untouched except an inch or so on the RHS as a reference point. HUGE difference ?
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20117.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20118.JPG)
Another section - look at the ball channel - not too bad ?
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20119.JPG)
Before ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20120.JPG)
After (well half of it) ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20121.JPG)
So what product did I use ?
NOVUS 3 and a toothbrush with trimmed bristles. It worked VERY well. It was hard work and I'd say the entire job took 4-5 hours. I used plenty of Novus 3 and worked into an area with the brush. Don't allow the Novus 3 to dry, wipe with a rag and do the next section etc etc. sounds very easy ? Well it was - it just took a lot of time.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20122.JPG)
Here's two pictures illustrating the difference. I've done only half of the playfiedl - which side #@#
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20123.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20124.JPG)
I plan on doing something with at least the bumper wear. I might airbrush the black and clear, sealing it with mylar trim. Before doind so, I will polish the playfield and buff it so it is protected !
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Looking much better Nino .
I reckon eucalyptus oil would have done the trick on this one *%*
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Looking much better Nino .
I reckon eucalyptus oil would have done the trick on this one *%*
I've never used eucalyptus oil, I might give it a try next time ^^^
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After the Novus 3 "clean and scrub", I used the Magic Eraser I bought in bulk from China. It is exactly the same as the Chux ME, but in larger blocks. It worked perfectly on this playfield - even to my surprise ! I then used the Treasurecove polishing kit to clean the playfield firther and finally to give it a really nice shine. Now pictures don't do it justice, this playfield looks simply stunning. It is a shame that there are wear marks, but my skills on touch ups are non existent. That will change in time - I hope !
Straight after the polish, a few snaps ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20125.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20126.JPG)
Under the playfield
Lots to do here, but I was enthused by the condition of the mechanisms. Coils were all good. Everything just needs to be stripped, cleaned, painted or plated, replaced and rebuilt. First, I take some reference pictures ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20127.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20128.JPG)
I organise the parts into sections. Parts that are to be replaced with new are placed in one container (to remind me to order them), parts for cleaning / polishing and parts for replating.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20129.JPG)
I'm going to replate these parts, to further gain experience and confidence in the process.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20130.JPG)
Now thats some serious corrosion. This has to be attended to. If I leave this unseen mech with the rust and corrosion, then it will slowly creep up on all the parts I clean / polish or replate. Plus - if you are going to do a proper job, don't take corners !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20131.JPG)
Fast Forward a couple of weeks. I've spent time cleaning all parts from under and on top of the playfield. Everything has been though "some" form of cleaning, bathing in Ranex, soaking in nifti, passed through the tumbler.. But most metal parts went through the Zinc plating process. Only some parts were nickel plated. When done, I seperate parts into seperate sections for reassembly
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20132.JPG)
Notice the flipper plates !
I've started to reinstall the flipper rebuild kits on to the replated flipper plates. I start from one corner of the bottom of the playfield, and clean the entire section - wires, screws etc etc. So when a photo opportunity comes up, everything in the vicinity looks clean. The only new parts are the coil stop, EOS and bushing. This is typical of the results successful plating can provide. Spend the time learning the process, and these are the results
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20133.JPG)
I only plated the brackets and the metal yoke. The skirts are metal and I polished these on the buffeing wheel. The plunger and spring have gone through the tumbler
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20136.JPG)
This is ugly ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20134.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20135.JPG)
This is treated and zinc plated
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20137.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20138.JPG)
Big difference. But it takes HOURS of preperation to do a plating job. Like anything, you need to be organised and preparation is the key. The time involved means that this kind of specialised work should not be done if you are impatient, on a time constraint, or you don't like your garage to look like a chemical lab for a few hours ! Is it worth it ? You be the judge !
Here's a progress picture as I move around the playfield
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20139.JPG)
Slowly but surely .. .. ..
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Very nice work. This one will come up a real treat!
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That mech has come up sensational Nino that Plating kit has paid of from that mech alone.
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Love your work mate! Gotta try me one of those plating kits
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That mech has come up sensational Nino that Plating kit has paid of from that mech alone.
The plating kit and process is involved, but well worth it "if" you want to put the time and effort into it. Results vary with experience, but factors such as temperature, metal type (and thickness) and preparation determine the outcome.
This game was chosen to experiment the process as it had corroded parts that I could not possibly source New or NOS. The plating process (learning curve included), has taken over 50 hours. That has to be factored into the total restoration time which is already well over 100 hours. As a hobbyist that enjoys doing this kind of work, it all just "fun". But if you were charging an hourly rate, you would go broke very quickly.
I agree, Daniel - The kit paid for itself just because it added another "string to my bow", and the satisfaction it gave to me after I had the process nutted down.
I would consider offering it as a service to fellow hobbyists, as I would not expect this kit would be justified to do one or two games.
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Fantastic results Nino, love the polished pop skirts they look great ^^^
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Looks great Nino ^^^
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Looking great Nino being able to plate your own parts must be very satisfying, it would only take a few machines to pay for itself.
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great work there and a lot of it.. i will get myself an em one day.. but not just yet..
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Great thread...Fantastic resullts... Love EM restores @@*
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Thanks for the kind words, folks. On the home stretch now. I hope the parts arrive from PBR soon. I intend to use the airbrush to repair the bumper area. Gavin is preparing me some paint masks to make the job easier. I decided that since the bumper area will be covered by mylar, it will be touched up. The wear areas near the flippers and slings will be left "as is". I think some sling mylar should be used.
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Outstanding Nino.
As usual.
The quality of your restore job always amazes me.
Patience is a virtue
J.D.
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Major Update ^^^
I usually dont bother too much with the playfield side rails, as they are easy to work with - being wood. But not on these Ballys. They are metal and in bad shape. There are "spider webs" of corrosion creeping up the side of them and I have to arrest this problem. Te problem became worse as the paint was flaking off as I was cleaning them, so I decided to remove the old paint, treat the corrosion and repaint. I would have to remove the rivets holding the guides - which is no problem as I have a rivet press and I can refit !
This picture does not highlight the problem, but you can feel the texture is "not right".
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20140.JPG)
I use Citrus Strip from Bunnings. No smell and cleanup with water. Took 20 minutes to remove the paint.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20141.JPG)
Metal parts removed for regraining, and the smaller piece will be polished as it is chrome plated.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20142.JPG)
Two coats of metal primer / undercoat
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20143.JPG)
Repaint. Two coats of white that closely matched the old paint - as best as I could find !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20144.JPG)
Some upper ball arch bling %.% These were chrome plated, so I simply polished them on the buffing wheel
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20145.JPG)
Rewind for a second to the lock down bar. I had a huge challenge with the corners. They were chrome plated (at a guess) and I cannot plate them. They have been "eaten away" and pitted in areas. Here the parts in the picture (below) ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20146.JPG)
I TRIED to clean them with wire brushes etc and NOTHING worked. So I treid something "leftfield" - I GRINDED them on the grinder. Simply "attacked" them for a couple of hours and then tried buffing them. I had this result ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20147.JPG)
Not too bad - but I thought that if I spend more time.. .. .. .. .. The plan was to spend as much time as it needed to get them really shining. My persistence paid off. I grinded them further on my grinding wheel - effectively removing some of the metal. It was a little scary at first, but after removing the chrome plating and pitting, it was starting to look better. It took an hour or so on the grinder. I then took 180 Grit wet / Dry and started to improve the surface. Finally, using 800 Grit wet dry and windex, it looked 100 % better. The last step, was the buffing wheel.
HUGE Difference !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20148.JPG)
That's around THREE HOURS of work. Now the lockdown bar is complete and look much better !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20149.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20150.JPG)
More Cabinet Bling !
While I was looking through boxes of NOS EM parts, I came across a pair of flipper buttons. The original buttons were worn and pitted. I tried polishing them, but they didn't meet the same standards as the rest of the game, so I was really pleased I found these ! I've given them a quick buff, just to see how they compare against the originals;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20152.JPG)
So, using the process that I had learnt with the lock down bar corners, I decided to grind the button faces down, sand with 180 grit wet/dry and windex, then 800 wet/dry and windex..
Here's the buttons after grinding them flat;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20154.JPG)
After the 800 Grit wet/dry
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20153.JPG)
After Buffing
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20155.JPG)
Back to the Playfield
Before I dropped in the playfield, I installed the playfield side rails, after rivetting on the metal parts. I also installed other chrome playfield hardware. I still hace to airbrush the black rings around the pop bumper - more on that later.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20157.JPG)
Need to clear some of this area ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20158.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20159.JPG)
Other Pictures ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20160.JPG)
Each light socket is tested. All I do is connect a 5VDC power to the GI and test the GI globes. I do the same for feature lights
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20161.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20162.JPG)
OK - The machine is almost done and I'm just waiting for some masks to turn up from Gavin to touch up the areas around the pop bumpers as well as an order from Pinball Resource to finish it off. Here are a couple of picture I took today of the machine in it's current form. I'm more than happy with it, although the amount of time I've spent is outrageous ! But I've enjoyed every minute !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20156.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20163.JPG)
Not long to go now !!
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Looking very Schmick now Nino ^^^ . Wish I had your level of patience and attention to detail .
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Nice work Nino, looks great ^^^
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Been a while !
I've been spending my time hassling Gavin and Timbo about the finer points of airbrushing. I've watched just about every Youtube vid on airbrushing and I've been practicing. My "stick figures" look better than ever. Rather than post my varied degrees of progress, I thought I'd post "the good, the bad and the ugly". It has been a steep learning curve, and I'm getting there. BIG thanks to Gav and timbo for helping out ^^^
First step is to buy a dual action Airbrush with a quick-connect. I bought this on eBay and I've pulled it apart 100 times, cleaned it and learned it's secrets ! It set me back $86 inc postage ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20165.JPG)
Next - the paints. General opinion was acrylic water based Jo Sonja paints and flow medium. I ordered frisket, but that has been on "back order" for 2 weeks !!!. I bought it all online from artstore.com.au. In the background are the masks Gavin cut for me. I will use this to lay the primer, white, black and clearcoat. I'll cover the clearcoat later - it will only be a touchup. Gavin also sent me some neat vinyl stickers for the games I restore !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20164.JPG)
Masks installed ready for primer. Now I had divots in the area - The pop bumper skirts are metal, and they have cut right through the paint and into the wood. They are shaped like "half moons". I filled them with primer and sanded them back. There's so much wood exposed and worn. A light coat with a brush first, then the primer is sprayed on. This is just before the primer is airbrushed.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20166.JPG)
Straight after going a bit "overboard" with primer. Now this was a mistake, and part of the learning cycle for me. It only needs to be a little primer, not a heavy coat. I just "ran away" with the idea that I HAD to use primer to fill the divots. So here is the primer coat and the mask removed ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20167.JPG)
It is no "big deal". I simply sanded back the primer, and it made a good "bond" to the exposed wood. This is just before re installing the masks, and I'm ready to airbrush the white background tomorrow.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20168.JPG)
A steep learning curve, but I'm enjoying it heaps !
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Cool- that primer is looking much nicer than before. far too easy to get carried away with airbrushing and lay too much paint.
Shes looking good mate - the prep work is all there. Looking forward to some really good results here.
LOL- had a feeling old Timbo was getting a barrage of emails!
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Cool- that primer is looking much nicer than before. far too easy to get carried away with airbrushing and lay too much paint.
Shes looking good mate - the prep work is all there. Looking forward to some really good results here.
LOL- had a feeling old Timbo was getting a barrage of emails!
Yep - I've certainly learnt a heap along the way from both yourself and Timbo. I'm painting the white tomorrow, then I'll wait a day or two and paint the black.
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Great work Nino @@*
Enjoying this thread
Cheers
Dave
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This is one sweet looking machine ..... almost there.
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OK - Now it is time to have a crack at the BLACK section. The masks are larger and overlap into the surrounding Bumpers, so I have to do this one bumper at a time. I figured I would have to test the application of the black mask and learn from the experience. I'm on a steep learning curve here !
The BLACK mask also incorporates the outer black ring, which really helps with the registration of the mask (clever guy that Gavin &&). Here is the first bumper BLACK mask ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20169.JPG)
Getting ready to paint - The paint is thinned using the flom medium and the airbrush is set to 35 PSI. I test the flow on a piece of paper and then I'm ready to start (fingers crossed)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20170.JPG)
First coat - just a "mist" coat. Nothing heavy. Takes 10 seconds !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20171.JPG)
Gone heavier on the next pass, and then a final coat. All done in around a minute. Remove the playfield masking and we are left with the mask itself. Notice the mask (yellow) is covering the surrounding bumpers. This creates a problem for me that can be addressed NOW, rather than AFTER I've painted in the Black section..
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20172.JPG)
I removed the mask - and WOW - How good is that ! The BLACK is simply awesome. But removing the mask lifted the WHITE paint on the surrounding bumpers. This is something I was not expecting, but I think it is because I airbrushed the primer too heavy. Hopefully - one of the experts might be able to help out here ?
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20173.JPG)
Here's a close-up of the lifted paint - pulled up the primer and white paint. Better now than after painting on the black !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20175.JPG)
But here is what I want to focus on - this is the achievement of HOURS of practice - Timbo's paints and Gavin's masks $#$
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20174.JPG)
Now to fix the problems and then prepare for the clearcoat of the area !
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I sanded the areas that were lifting. In hindsight, I should have sanded it all back to wood, but I kept going with the areas that lifted. I did a thin primer application to wood and used a brush to add the paint. I sanded the white areas as flat as I could. I reapplied the stencils and painted a thin coat of black, then worked in a couple of thicker coats. I left the paint dry for 5 minutes and then pulled up the stencils. Much better results except on area on one bumper - the far right.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20176.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20177.JPG)
The problem is on this bumper - but I'm not too concerned. I'll remove the white area with a scalpul and refill with white paint with a brush ( I think ! )
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20178.JPG)
Looks HEAPS better. When it is dry, I will clearcoat the bumpers (Gav made masks for that as well) and finally apply mylar. Not only will it look good, but it will stay that way !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20179.JPG)
Next update will be the application of the clearcoat.
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How many clear coat stencils did i send you??
If you have one extra then you can VERY lightly clear the far right bumper area... this will seal what you have done.
Then apply stencil to the whiote area that needs touching up and very gently DAB some white into the divot.
The clear should prevent any further paint loss when you remove any mask... in fact your Tamiya tape is perfect for this... place a small strip over this litle are and carefully cut the groove where the white needs to be with a scalpel with a fresh blade... doesnt have to be all of the circle... just the bit thats missing and a little further.
Tamiya tape is the most gentle yet best line mask i have found.
This way you can "fill" and retain a clean edge.
Wait till you put the "lacquer" finish over the top and get the same semi gloss as the rest of the PF... this will look fantastic!
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Yes mate - I follow your logic. I think you game me "two of everything", so I have 8 clear masks !
Do you think 80 Gloss / 20 Satin will be "too shiny" ?
The clearcoat will be interesting, I've done a few practice runs on this paint and it worked perfectly !
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Do you think 80 Gloss / 20 Satin will be "too shiny" ?
Try it on a flat surface right up to the edge... let dry and compare the two together.
80/20 mix is only a slight gloss finish.
BTW - if you do touch up that white edge make sure you push your mask right down into the very inside edges of the groove.. need to get a really good seal for this
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Over the weekend I decided to do a "test run" on the clear. Results are AMAZING, and I KNOW I've taken FOREVER with this game, but a lot of this (nickel, Zinc plating and airbrushing) is learning "on the job". This update really showed me how far I've come with this new Airbrush setup, and I can confidently attempt smaller jobs with great results (and friendly advice from Timbo and Gav ^^^).
Right - I've applied the final stencil - the clear stencil. The product I'm using is a cabot's clear, and it is a joy to work with. Based on Gav's advice - 80% Gloss and 20% Low Sheen. so I bought one of each and mixed it as I needed it. Need to work a bit faster with the clear, as it gets "sticky" quickly, and you don't want it clogging the airbrush. Masked off the area ;
I quickly did the top pop bumper - a mist coat, and then three heavier coats, going around in circles. Then I moved to the bottom pop bumper. I did the same.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20180.JPG)
Remove the masks after 5 minutes (clean the airbrush first !) and here are the results - the two LEFTMOST pop bumpers are DONE - cleared ! I'll do the other two later, once I'm happy the clear has not reacted etc.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20181.JPG)
A day after, and it has not reacted or bled in any way. It is a THIN clear, so there is not much of an edge, but you can feel it. This will be covered with mylar later.
So before I move on - Do the gurus think I need to sand the two completed pop bumpers and shoot another coat ? Should I sand with 2000 / 1500 / 1200 grit prior to placing the mylar down ?
Anyway, I'm VERY pleased right now
$#$
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I was not entirely happy with the final finish as it was spotty and didn't feel or look right, so after a couple of long calls to Gavin, we worked out that the clearcoat mix was too thick. So I experimented by painting a piece of wood 30cm X 50cm RED with the paints I'm using, and then I sectioned it off into 6 squares. I gradually thinned out the mix until it was flowing nice and it gave me a completely flat and shiney finish. I was happy thinning the clear with around 20% turps. I did spend a lot of time perfecting this process, and I was completely happy with the end result. It looks and feels like glass. Blends it perfectly with the rest of the playfield.
Thanks again Gav ^^^
Only a small update, and the pictures don't do the finish justice.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20182.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20183.JPG)
I'll apply mylar rings and then give serious consideration to repairing the section between the flippers.
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Looking very nice indeed!! Sorry if i missed it elsewhere in the thread Nino, but are you planning on airbrushing the wear above the flippers? since you're getting good results with your airbrush work??
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Looking very nice indeed!! Sorry if i missed it elsewhere in the thread Nino, but are you planning on airbrushing the wear above the flippers? since you're getting good results with your airbrush work??
Yes Mitch, I want to repaint that section now. But that may lead onto the repair in front of the slingshots - and that is a BIG area to address - not much wear, but it would be hard to blend it in.
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Nino, pictures speak for themselves, even if they don't do it justice as you say.
By the way, how rare a game is Aces High? As this came in from a container (from Europe ?), I suspect you would find very few, if any here in Australia. What a feeling that will be when this baby gets going .... it really is something when you're playing a game that is 46 years on! Doubt XBox will be doing that in the 2050's.
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Nino, pictures speak for themselves, even if they don't do it justice as you say.
By the way, how rare a game is Aces High? As this came in from a container (from Europe ?), I suspect you would find very few, if any here in Australia. What a feeling that will be when this baby gets going .... it really is something when you're playing a game that is 46 years on! Doubt XBox will be doing that in the 2050's.
Yes Steve, this machine is a game I hand picked in my first container. Like most Bally's of this era, it is rare. I don't know of any collectors that own one in Australia, so it is hard to guage how rare it is. Hard to find an opinion as a result. It is safe to say that like with all card / gambling games, it will be fun.
I rate Bally EMs higher than Gottliebs from this era. Artwork is MUCH better and they are more fun to play. I used to think Gottliebs made "the best" game, but now I'm convinced Bally built a better machine. My collection will be predominantly Bally EMs and maybe just one or two Gottliebs.
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After slowly going "mad" with the pop bumper repaint, the end is near. The clearcoat settled really nice, and all I needed to do was apply the mylar rings. Here's the finished section with the mylar installed, the camera angle and flash shows the area protected;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20184.JPG)
Now I can reassemble the pop bumpers on the top of the playfield and the underside. Notice the skirts are metal, and I polished them on the buffing wheel. Everything else (above the playfield) is NEW. The "below playfield" parts have been polished ot Nickel played - with the exception of the plunger itself.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20185.JPG)
Now it has taken AGES to get this this point, and I want to remind anyone following this restore of the state of the pop bumper rings BEFORE I started - here's a quick rewind..
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20115.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20124.JPG)
Here's the finished section;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20186.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20187.JPG)
I'm pleasantly surprised and very pleased with the results. I've also learnt a few tricks along the way.
$#$
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Nino the pin looks fantastic. #*#
It has come a long way !
Good to know that some one else is honing in on their airbrushing skills. ^^^
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Great work she looks awesome the before and after pictures really show the amount of work you have put into it. ^^^
Peter
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Great work so far Nino . ^^^ Congrats on getting the hang of airbrushing too .. another string to your bow .
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Nice work mate, love the polished metal skirts ^^^
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Thats all for the kind words.
After staring at the "success" of the pop bumpers, I dropped my eyes and look what I have before me ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20188.JPG)
The areas in front of the flippers are of major concern. So I'm going to "have a crack" at repairing this section. I will use the same technique as I have learnt from the pop bumpers. It will be touched up and clearcoated. I'm sure if this works out well, I will be attempting the sections in front of the slingshots. Problem there is that the light blue has yellowed, whereas the section where the flippers are has vibrant colors intact.
I've prepped the area and placed the frisket in position. I use a scalpal to cut around the yellow areas where I want the paint to flow through. I took me 5 minutes to match the yellow on a scrap piece of wood and prep the airbrush. The white area on the left is mainly the white undercoat / primer from factory. I only needed a drop of primer mixed with water to bite the exposed wood. The right hand side is only the white layer. This was exposed during the cleaning and polishing of the playfield.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20189.JPG)
"Mist coat" - wait a minute or two and then two thick coats, but the first thick coat concentrates on the exposed areas., then the second coat evens it all out. Takes around 5 minutes to complete. While I wait, I clean out the airbrush ready for the next color.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20190.JPG)
I remove the frisket and it looks great. I usually wait a day, and then sand it back to level out the imperfections. I ended up painting another light coat on the left hand side as it was not uniform.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20191.JPG)
After a couple of days, I repeat the process for the red. took around 5 minutes of fiddling to match the red. The camera angle and light make the paint look glossy and thick. It won't dry like that at all. This paint is SO EASY to work with !
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20192.JPG)
Here's the RED completed. There is a little bleed of the red into the area where the black lines are. This is because the yellow is slighly raised and the paint can bleed into the "channel" between the red and yellow - this is where the black lines are, so ti will be completely covered anyway.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20193.JPG)
I'll let this settle and move on to the light blue in a couple of days. Then the dark Blue and lines to finish it off. VERY time consuming, but I have plenty of other work to do. If you were doing only one playfield at a time, you would go NUTS waiting for paint to dry etc.
Now I FULLY APPRECIATE the time and the work the professional guys put into playfield restorations. But it is rewarding and I get a great deal of satisfaction as I progress.
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WOW! WOW WOW! I didn't realise how much work you have put into this machine until I saw the before and after of the pop bumpers!
IT LOOKS BRILLIANT NENO!
Looking and realising the amount of time, Effort and $ into this machine...
How much do you think it would be worth in Aus?? ^&^
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coming along nicely Nino ^^^ I was hoping to see you redo this area of the pf, i can understand how you might've been a bit apprehensive about this area, but redoing the whole colour(s) and matching the colour as close as you can, you really cant go wrong.
Looking forward to seeing the end results, keep up the great work!! ^^^
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WOW! WOW WOW! I didn't realise how much work you have put into this machine until I saw the before and after of the pop bumpers!
IT LOOKS BRILLIANT NENO!
Looking and realising the amount of time, Effort and $ into this machine...
How much do you think it would be worth in Aus?? ^&^
Not sure if I can place a $ value on this game, Mitch. I think this restore has gone BEYOND worrying about recouping my time, as it has been a learning curve, and I find this to be more rewarding than being paid "top dollar". This machine was in poor condition and I deleiberately targetted this machine to test Greg's Bally Star Jet score motor issue and it "grew" from there. The score motor rebuild took HOURS. Learning to replate metal took WEEKS. Researching and learning airbrush techniques took weeks and is an ongoing process. I would LOVE for this game to take pride and place in a Pinball Museum. At the very least, I'd like it to be in a good home. Interestingly enough, a collector in the USA has shown keen interest in buying it, but I'm not entirely sure whether it is a legitimate offer or not. At the moment, I'm just pleased with what this restore has GIVEN ME. I can't put a $ value on that. It HAS tested my abilty and opened many doors to new methods of restoration.
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Time to do the BLUE - which I found difficult to match. I decided NOT to do the entire blue area, as there was no noticeable damage below the flippers, and I'm still learning clearcoating. So less is more in this case. I mixed enough paint to do the entire area, but I wanted to see how it looked.
Here's the area I want to repaint, a straight line from the top of the flipper section. I used frisket mask to cover the area and a scalpal to cut out the areas I want to paint.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20194.JPG)
Use the airbrush to lay the paint
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20195.JPG)
and the results. The camera does really show up the lack of skills I have in paint matching, but once the hardware is installed, it will be difficult to see the subtle difference. Anyway, it is 100 times better than before.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20196.JPG)
Next part of the repaint is the black lines.
:D
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Looks like a good match to me. Nice work mate ^^^
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Excellent work @@* @@* - Love to have PF painting skills you have.
Like the Bally 60,s emsm
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Great work Nino, the touchups look great.
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Inspiring Nino, looking awesome....
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Excellent work @@* @@* - Love to have PF painting skills you have.
Like the Bally 60,s emsm
Millsy - I had no skills whatsoever until I started experimenting. Thanks to the help from Gav and Tim, I've made a start and seriously, it is not hard at all. I have ZERO artistic skills. Color matching is difficult, but airbrushing is surprisingly simple - even clearcoating with an airbrush is simple.
All I can say is that this is my first effort, and if I can do it - anyone can. Cost me around $150 to get started (but I already have a 2HP compressor), and I look forward to learning more skills.
Thanks for the kind words from everyone ^^^
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Unfortunately I am slightly colour blind, would be great if there was a portable color matching scanner (Like the one at Bunnings) available. I rely on the normal flatbed scanner but the colours come out different on photoshop.
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Looks pretty sweet so far to me Nino #*# it'll look even better still once you've done the black lines, and as you said when the hardware is back on will look even better again!!
Im really enjoying following the results of your airbrushing efforts so far ^^^ ^^^ ^^^
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A package arrived in the mail from Gavin with my Stencils to complete this section (thanks Gav). It is only a circle, but I wanted the finished job to look perfect. Just a recap - I ended up painting the ENTIRE section - all colors and all lines. The lines took HOURS to finish and I had to redo sections. I'm glad I did this, as the results speak for themselves.
Here's the section prior to the repaint ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20188.JPG)
Here's the section after I completed the repaint. I have not cleared it yet - I only finished this off yesterday ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20197.JPG)
That's a MASSIVE improvement and I had a massive sensee of achievement and satisfaction. Very happy ^^^
Gavin once told me that "once you finish one area, you find the next area to improve" - well how right is that. I'm going to tackle the areas in front of the slings. I can't get away with a touch up - so I'm going to repaint the entire light blue section. I have to do this as areas are lighter than others - the color is not uniform. I have the confidence and skills to at least attempt it.
Here's my final repaint areas ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20198.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20199.JPG)
I'm looking forward to the challenge !
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Excellent result, and stunning to say the least!
I would hazard to guess you have spent a serious amount of time on this restore - perhaps more than any other you have done, or at least up there?
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Excellent result, and stunning to say the least!
I would hazard to guess you have spent a serious amount of time on this restore - perhaps more than any other you have done, or at least up there?
Without doubt, this is the most exhaustive restore I've even done. 1960's Ballys (especially 4 Player games) have a lot of work that needs to be done - more than GTB and Williams of the same era. This game is the oldest I own, and was selected as it was the "worst" of the first container - so it was a good measuring stick to what lies ahead (over 45 EMs). Hving said that, there's two challenges I've answered - Nickel / Zinc plating and playfield touch-up and clearcoating. This opens up many opportunites to attempt machines in far worse condition, and I look forward to clearcoating many playfields "old school".
I'd say I'm approaching 200 hours.
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Back onto the playfield restoration, more specifically, the blue/green areas in front of the slingshots. I tried several times to hand paint the area, but it was never a perfect match and it was too obvious. I decided to repaint the entire area, which required the use of the frisket, a scalpul and a steady hand.
Initially, I rubbed back the existing varnish with a green scotchbrite and then applied penetrol with a rag and let it dry for a week (only needs to dry overnight, but I was busy on other games). I cut a sheet out of frisket and set it in place. I then had to use the scalpul and cut out the area where I wanted to paint. Here's a couple of pictures before I painted ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20200.JPG)
You can see the hazy areas where the frisket is cut out (a better angle).
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20201.JPG)
I mixed the paint and thinned it to flow through the airbrush. I was a little thinner than usual, I was only interested in getting the paint to flow with more control and it worked a treat. Here's a picture of the areas AFTER two or three thin coats. Note I've left the mast for the dark blue area intact, but the frisket from other areas is removed and NO overspray ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20202.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20203.JPG)
Here's a picture of the area I just repainted. Dried slightly darker / greener but I noticed that the original paint had faded. It will look great under a clearcoat.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20204.JPG)
The finished sections in front of the slings. MUCH better result. The effort was well worth it - I really didn't like the areas worn to wood. I still have a bit of an issue with the left hand side sling area, as the paint was worn to wood AND there was a divot of wood removed. The clear will level that off.
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20206.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20207.JPG)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20205.JPG)
Now I have to work out a plan for the dark blue and white writing. Not sure how to tackle this yet !
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Another big improvement there Nino ^^^ .. think I would fail before I even started tho as you said one of the required tools is a steady hand %.%
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Looking sweet, Nino. The "serious" hours continue .... you must be getting close to this one being finished.
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Another big improvement there Nino ^^^ .. think I would fail before I even started tho as you said one of the required tools is a steady hand %.%
Absolutely - it is still a big learning curve for me. I dreaded attempting this section as I had not airbrushed an area this large, and I had struggled to match the color previously. Luckily, my wife is good at color matching, so it came fairly close. Close enough for me to be very happy.
Looking sweet, Nino. The "serious" hours continue .... you must be getting close to this one being finished.
Only the Blue area and the white lettering to go, then a clearcout for the lower section. In hindsight, I should have clearcoated the entire playfield, but that's ok - I'm happy to have learnt what I have - so far ! I'm really keen on playing a game when it is finished, but to be honest, the artwork and the condition of the playfield is something to just "look at". There's something about 60's Ballys that intrigues me.
Thanks for the comments guys - this restore has dragged on a bit !
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In hindsight, I should have clearcoated the entire playfield, but that's ok - I'm happy to have learnt what I have - so far ! I'm really keen on playing a game when it is finished, but to be honest, the artwork and the condition of the playfield is something to just "look at". There's something about 60's Ballys that intrigues me.
Thanks for the comments guys - this restore has dragged on a bit !
I'm surprised you would be thinking of clearcoating a 60's EM ..
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In hindsight, I should have clearcoated the entire playfield, but that's ok - I'm happy to have learnt what I have - so far ! I'm really keen on playing a game when it is finished, but to be honest, the artwork and the condition of the playfield is something to just "look at". There's something about 60's Ballys that intrigues me.
Thanks for the comments guys - this restore has dragged on a bit !
I'm surprised you would be thinking of clearcoating a 60's EM ..
Not a traditional "clearcoat" that we find on DMD machines. EMs and SS games had a varnish which is far less gloss (and product) than an automotive clear. I would never clear an EM or SS with an Automotive clear, but thanks to Gavin's trial and error with his EM clearcoating, there is an alternative that is consistent with the factory finish. I was able to blend in the clear with the original varnish on the Buccaneer.
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Very interesting Nino .
I haven't heard (or read) about that before. (or maybe I forgot !@#)
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Very interesting Nino .
I haven't heard (or read) about that before. (or maybe I forgot !@#)
It's something that I've been interested in for a while. I've seen some Youtube Vids where hobbyists are auto clearing EM playfields and there's more spray in the air than the playfield, plus, the gloss is too high. Looks GREAT on a DMD, but it does not look right on SS or EMs. CPR clear their SS playfields with too much gloss as well. It looks ok, but it is not the factory finish. They should be more of a satin finish. I'm trying to replicate the satin finish on EMs that are closer to the original factory varnish.
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Back on track for this restoration. To complete the playfield repairs, I needed the final set of stencils off Gavin. They arrived and I quickly got back to work. There are three stencils - One for the BLUE area, one for the outline and one for the writing. Should be straight forward !
(http://aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20208.JPG)
Put the mask down so we only allow BLUE paint to be applied to the playfield.
(http://aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20211.JPG)
(http://aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20212.JPG)
Do the same for the black lines
(http://aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20213.JPG)
Here's the blue section and the Black lines. I'll have to thicken the lower arrow section later.
(http://aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20214.JPG)
Here's the mask for the white writing. You can see how small the area to paint is.
(http://aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20215.JPG)
A couple of areas didn't work out as planned, but I'll touch that up with a fine brush.
(http://aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20216.JPG)
Writing corrected and I've also repainted some black lines.
(http://aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20219.JPG)
Ready for Clearcoat !
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This is where I came from to get to this point
(http://aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20188.JPG)
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Looks much better Nino . So your not redoing the black circles around the inserts then ?
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Looks much better Nino . So your not redoing the black circles around the inserts then ?
I looked at that last night and thought that it would be a great idea to have a mask for that area and do all the black circles. I will re do them with a Sharpie. I can't spend more time on this game as I've put in 200 hours and I have to draw the line somewhere. A lot of the playfield work has been a learning curve for me, and if I had my time again, I would have clearcoated the entire playfield.
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Time for the clearcoat for the lower section of the playfield. Next time I do this type of work, I'll be clearing the entire playfield, not just sections.
Masking off the areas with Frisket cut to size around the areas I don't want to clean. The sections that I've NOT touched up need to have penetrol applied with a rag and left to dry. Here's a picture just prior to clearcoat.
(http://aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20221.JPG)
Here's the section after removing the mask. I've also tidied up the inserts. I'll leave it to dry and sand level with 2000 grit wet / dry and polish. The clear adds depth and slightly darkens the paint. Still, it is much better than when I started.
(http://aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20222.JPG)
Now I wait and then re assemble.
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Look great niño ! Nice work !
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Reassembled section.
(http://aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Aces%20High/Aces%20High%20224.JPG)
The game is currently being tested. A few stuck switches and misadjusted switches, but it plays. The more I play it, the more I appreciate how cool these old 60's EMs are to play.
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Very nice, I love how, back then, they had to state "flipper buttons on sides of cabinet" :lol
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Nino, love it. Can't wait to get stuck into my 1965' Ice Revue after seeing this ^^^
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Dean.....
Ive started!!!!
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/IceRevue.jpg)
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Dean.....
Ive started!!!!
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/IceRevue.jpg)
cool can't wait. What's the black photo?
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What black photo?
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Nino, love it. Can't wait to get stuck into my 1965' Ice Revue after seeing this ^^^
Within the EM fraternity, the 60's Ballys are often ignored. All games from this era (with the 2 inch flippers) are great fun to play. Having played the game to the point where it is almost 100%, I can say that 60's EMs are a blast and VERY unforgiving. Everyone should have a 60's game in their collection.
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What black photo?
in your post?.
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What black photo?
in your post?.
Got no idea.. cant see a black photo !@# !@#
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@.@just read your thread for last couple of years ,shes looking really good.i was just doing up an alligator (german import)& noticed it had stepper units inside the cab (never seen them in an e.m before!),i got it to re-set,got lights etc working ,but could not get it to go to game over, there were also some other problems,so i pulled it down & put it away....I have another 60,s bally,with identical playfield to the alligator ,i will eventually pull it out & hopefully will learn from it!
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@.@just read your thread for last couple of years ,shes looking really good.i was just doing up an alligator (german import)& noticed it had stepper units inside the cab (never seen them in an e.m before!),i got it to re-set,got lights etc working ,but could not get it to go to game over, there were also some other problems,so i pulled it down & put it away....I have another 60,s bally,with identical playfield to the alligator ,i will eventually pull it out & hopefully will learn from it!
Thanks for the positive comments. Bally 4 players from this era are a different beast, and they are ahead of their time. You really need schematics for these games. Cleaning the stepper units is imperative. Maybe start a new thread so we can assist you in solving the problems ?
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<..>yeah ,i didnt know it was a stepper at first i thought it had extra score motors! ,& then after checking it out ,i realised the game over & start relays were amongst the steppers.i have another bally ,a campus queen ,1960,s/ & it has the same playfield ,so hopefully that wont have the same problem ,& then after i find out how she works ,i can go back to the alligator.....I,ll put it up on this resto section when i get it out.
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After sitting in the workshop for over 12 months, I pulled out this game and started to troubleshoot the niggling problems. It turned out that the issue with awarding 40 points instead of 50 points was to do with one of the switches on the score motor opening before the 5th 10 point point on the cam was closed. Really interesting problem. The coin issue was simply the switch was not adjusted.
After all this time, the game is playable and the clearcoat / touch up work looks the same at it was the day I finished it. Only one small problem with Player 1 not resetting the thousands scorereel every reset and I'm done !
It does not look like much, but this game is a fun game. Very addictive.
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I have a black photo too. I think its got to do with an ipad thing. Looking at this thread with my old ver 1 ipad on os5 dunno about it being the same on my ipad 4