The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: turbo27 on November 03, 2014, 11:17:41 AM
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This is my second attempt at a pinball restoration. This is going to challenge me! The previous was IJ (also shared here on AP), bad cabinet but good playfield.
I was able to pick up this machine here in Adelaide, my listed 'wanted T2' on Gumtree worked a treat.
Machine was bought into Australia from Germany over 10 years ago by the current owner. Has not been used in ages, as you can see by the state of it.
Good Parts - 99% of the boards look great, with only the Power driver board needing a fix at J115 with a new header. Ironically my ST TNG started resetting the week I purchased T2, so I repaired the board and swapped it into ST! Now all I have to do is gain the courage to repair the ST board (not pretty)
T2 has a really good structural cabinet, solid as. Cabinet will be stripped, patched and resprayed, with a new complete set of decals coming from Mr Pinball.
New chrome legs, new flipper buttons and a repaint of the coin door. Who puts stickers on a pinball machine @.@
Bad Parts - the repairs to the playfield scares me. I have been reading up on as many repairs guides as I can find. Pretty sure going to need advice along the way!
My aim is to patch up areas with an air brush and would like to clear coat the playfield. Want to use automotive 2 pac, and plan on seeing local car repair services for a quote.
Then re-assemble the playfield with lots of new parts
Before Pictures
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more
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Started stripping down the playfield.
Lots of photos detailing as much as possible, hopefully help me put this back together.
Almost as dirty as Nino's current project.
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Playfield empty.
I have never removed all of the rear components before.
I cut away flippers, shooter and kickback components. The rest I carefully unscrewed everything leaving it in its current location.
I then used another sheet of board (roughly the size of the playfield) and with the help of my wife, slipped it in between the components and playfield. Closely mirroring where they are located on the playfield. I cling wrapped all the components to this board for attention later!
And remember - lots of photos, from the top and all sides, going to help massively when I go to replace everything!
5 minute clean and here's what I've got
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Excellent - good to see Adelaide members getting into the restorations too.
Good Job
I'd also like to get my hands on something of this era as well.....
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Hey Turbo, project is looking great. ^^^
You may want to check Mr Pinball for decals as I am pretty sure you can only buy coin door and head box decals. Will be watching with great interest as I plan on doing the same in the near future.
Cheers
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Thanks guys
Mr Pinball does have 5 piece decal set, but not listed on ebay for his website. Just give Wayne a call and order over the phone ^^^
Just finished cleaning the playfield and now starting to stress over the repairs needed!
Sinbad79, was talking to Boots over the weekend, any suggestions for where to go for a clear coat. Cheers
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you're going to have to take it to a crash shop somewhere, or even better, someone who paints cabinets for 2 pack kitchens.
I have a friend who i use but he really only does it to help me out - he runs a crash shop, so im not sure he's really keen to do this on a regular basis unfortunately.
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Thanks Turbo, PM sent.
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Playfield empty.
I have never removed all of the rear components before.
I cut away flippers, shooter and kickback components. The rest I carefully unscrewed everything leaving it in its current location.
I then used another sheet of board (roughly the size of the playfield) and with the help of my wife, slipped it in between the components and playfield. Closely mirroring where they are located on the playfield. I cling wrapped all the components to this board for attention later!
And remember - lots of photos, from the top and all sides, going to help massively when I go to replace everything!
5 minute clean and here's what I've got
I am sure this will turn out as good as IJ did - or better
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Playfield empty.
I have never removed all of the rear components before.
I cut away flippers, shooter and kickback components. The rest I carefully unscrewed everything leaving it in its current location.
I then used another sheet of board (roughly the size of the playfield) and with the help of my wife, slipped it in between the components and playfield. Closely mirroring where they are located on the playfield. I cling wrapped all the components to this board for attention later!
And remember - lots of photos, from the top and all sides, going to help massively when I go to replace everything!
5 minute clean and here's what I've got
This is a vital step of any reconditioning or restoration job. ALL the components need to be removed - including posts, metal guides and most importantly, the pop bumpers. Take heaps of photos, and don't be surprised if the parts you removed were not part of the factory game.
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These are the 3 main areas needing attention.
The 250,000 insert is slightly raised, not enough to catch your finger nail but enough to feel the bump. With the playfield being 2 pac clear coated, do I need to fix this? or will the clear coat mask the issue.
If I have to fix, prefer not to remove the insert. Can I apply pressure from the top with a clamp and heat up the bottom? Hopefully re-seating the insert and then apply an amount of glue to re-fix.
The CPU area. Red insert must come out and be re-levelled. Then I will air brush the black areas.
The pop bumpers. Do I need to remove the 3 bolts going thru the playfield for each of the bumpers. Or just leave as is, repair the art work and clear over the top?
More pictures to come when I attack the playfield with the air brush.
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The 250k insert be careful with. The aftermarket inset decals do not fit or even come close. If it's a small depression the clear should cover it, but depends on how many coats...
Remove all t-nut and the nails for pop bumpers for clear.
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Level the CPU insert by removing and re inserting. You can airbrush the black area but prime the exposed wood area. build up the area with paint - don't go heavy with one coat, do several thin coats. When the clearcoat is done, the playfield will need to be block sanded to level out any low areas. Better to fill with paint than clear, block sand, clear, block sand - just to build one area up.
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Thanks for the info guys.
Airbrush and paints arrived today, so will see how I go over the weekend. 39 deg here so definitely NO painting today.
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Frisket Film has saved my sanity #*#
If you are going to paint fine detail, and want sharp accurate edges, use THIS product.
The fluro orange albeit in a tube is a pretty close match. Thinned it down heaps and still struggled with it in the air brush.
Results : I'm no professional, and trying my best, but I think I'm getting there. Hopefully the clear coat will assist in coving my imperfections.
Two more orange rings to paint on Monday, and that might just about be the playfield 'touched'
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Looks great Trent
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Practice makes perfect, looking good!
How are you masking off to get perfect circles?
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Masking is done with frisket film. It's like contact adhesive, clear so you can trace, but low tack.
This lady on youtube does a great demo
I applied a section of film over the circle areas, and used different sizes lids and cups to trace around cutting the film with a very sharp knife. Remove the section and spray. Fantastic stuff ^^^
On the 2 remaining pops, I painted the 2 black rings as one. I hopefully will be able to overlay the orange ring over the black. Fingers crossed
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Playfield (I think) touch up is finished.
With the talent available I feel this is a pretty good attempt, and I hope after the clear coat it will 'even' the surface and slight colour variations.
The cheaper fluro orange took a lot of coats to make coverage and cover the black, but I still think this was the right way to go.
A little artist licence was needed for the black/white/yellow explosion flames. I had to enlarge its area around the rings to cover previous ball damage.
Is a step curve but slowly levelling the playfield ^^^
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Well done... but next time, put the orange down first as a whole section and then do the black rings on top... always much easier putting dark over light
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It's fun having a crack. Nice vid on frisked Dude. Thanks for posting your efforts. Good work.
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Keep Update. Have not had the time so progress has been a little slow.
Decals removed with a heat gun. Headboard was actually screen printed....quite surprised.
Sanded, body filler, sanded and body filler, followed by more sanding. Almost as smooth as glass....Happy
Removed all Earth braid, and cleaned up interior surfaces. Cabinet interior will be painted just leaving the floor section natural with maybe a clear coat.
Ready for fill primer coat
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more
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Been a while since last update, but things have been progressing. Hit the turning point and things are now being re-assembled ^^^
Cabinet and head board painted along with screws brackets and fittings.
Last time on IJ I used Acyrlic paint. Very workable, minimal mess but I found the durablitly low. Seems everytime I remove the back glass a new scratch appears on the headboard.
Tried Enamel this time
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Dupli-Color-Quick-Dry-Enamel-Black-4L.aspx?pid=324078&menuFrom=80403#Recommendations
Proving to be as tough as nails but takes time to dry - like 2 weeks! The tin says quick dry, but it is tacky as hell for about 3 days and I made the mistake a picking the head board up too early and left a finger print in the surface &^&
Spray with plenty of ventilation and use adequate protection - it stickes to everything.
Will be leaving it for another 2-3 weeks to allow full cure and any shrinkage before I decal.
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Playfield back from being clear coated . . looks great.
Very happy with my first time attempt at repairs, particularly around the bumpers. CPU area next to the red insert a small line of I think sanding dust remained trapped under the clear. Very minor
Re populating started, polishing, polishing and more....
Thank goodness I took lots of photos - without it's a massive jigsaw puzzle.
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Nice ^^^
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Love the foam board for holding the screws! Thanks for sharing.
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Cheers, foam was good but the paint started to disolve it as I sprayed. I thought at one stage the screws and bolts we're going to start falling to the ground. Fortunately they didn't.
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Very nice work with the playfield. After picking up all the tricks, you can really push yourself to find out what you are good at and what areas you need to improve. I learn something new every time I work on a playfield.
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Progress update. Playfield coming together well.
Was missing a wire ball guide, stock measures about 2.2mm. Hard to get size. Just made my own from a Stainless Steel welding rod. 316 grade and 2.4mm about 600mm long cost me $2.50. Worked a treat ^^^
T2 manual rubber guide as most know (me NOW) is wrong, lists incorrect and incomplete rubber guide. Pinwiki has an update list - found after I ordered.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Terminator_2:_Judgement_Day_Shop_Guide
Do people agree with my rubber layout? Struggled to find a 'correct' layout picture. Please tell me now if I'm incorrect!!!! Thanks
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Looks good to me
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Looks good to me
Thank you
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I wouldn't have a clue about the rubber layout for this game, but that playfield is really coming together nicely. Great work! ^^^
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I wouldn't have a clue about the rubber layout for this game, but that playfield is really coming together nicely. Great work! ^^^
Reckon I have it sorted......Top of playfield 95% complete and back together. Now onto the underside. Cleaning and replacing parts as I re-intalled all the components.
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I have a T2 and your post/rubber selection looks like mine.
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Update.
Play field is close enough finished. Under playfield almost. Need new kicker switch Assembly for both sides. I was stupid to think I could use the old &^&
Taking inventory for my final parts order.
Apron was stripped back to almost bare metal, primmed, a few black coats and then cleared. Decals applied using the wet method - having used both methods, wet is the ONLY way to go.
Rail cleaned with Jiff, scotch Britte blue and a hell of elbow grease.
Next : Cabinet decal.
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superb!
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Everything you have done looks amazing.
You have a really excellent condition playfield.
The artwork on this title is understated in some areas and very creative in others. A really successful balance by the artists and designer.
The Translite on this T2 game is so so dam cool and iconic for the movie.
One of the best Translites ever.
Never seen a person who hasn't said a huge WOW when they see this machine for the first time.
Congrats on a super restoration.
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Wow! Its all really looking fantastic. Plenty of attention to detail there even on the underside of the playfield.
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Thank guys, I really appreciate your kind words.
Will post more pictures of the next stage.
Cheers
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Trying to put me out of business mate ? <.>
Looks AMAZING. You should be very happy with the progress. It sometimes is "lost" how much fun and how many hours goes into work at this level. The results speak for themselves.
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Headboard done.
Decal using wet method - works a treat.
Back of the headboard, I keep the orginal safety screen print. Taped around it and re sprayed the rest. Picture doesn't do it justice.
Forgot completely about the coin door, that's my afternoon sorted.
Main cab decal tomorrow, have booked my trusty assistant for an hour tomorrow, most definately need an extra set of hands....ie my wife ^^^ (thanks Robm and your youtube video....)
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Looking great mate. One way to lessen the outline effect of the warning text on the rear is to very lightly sand the edges where the tape was then spray with a satin clear. This gives it all a similar sheen
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Coming along very nice. Keep up the great work...
I had the apron done on my T2 by a spray painter mate many many years ago....We cleared over the decals to give it a very nice final finish...
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Looking great mate. One way to lessen the outline effect of the warning text on the rear is to very lightly sand the edges where the tape was then spray with a satin clear. This gives it all a similar sheen
Thanks Rob reckon I might try that
Coming along very nice. Keep up the great work...
I had the apron done on my T2 by a spray painter mate many many years ago....We cleared over the decals to give it a very nice final finish...
Thanks MartyJ I really did contemplate doing that, have seen it done before and looks great. I havent due to not wanting to bugger up 46 bucks worth of decals with lack at talent
Thanks for your comments...cheers #*#
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We have power......and no smoke was released in the process *.*
Cabinet decals applied today with the help of my wife ^^^
Didn't take that long to re-assemble the rest, and my 430pm I had it powered.
Almost everything works. Adjustments to lane switches are needed, quite a few not being activated, canon needs adjustment, not re-aligning to the 'home' position, this is an issue from before the resto.
The main one is the audo - works but is cutting in out out. I reeckon this also was a problem from before (had little time powered before the strip down). Going to try re-burning the rom (including the game rom) to see if this helps. Also keen to try the profanity version (minus the kids)
All in all, I happy :D
Better pics to come
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The red eyes/speakers look menacing and very very cool indeed ^^^
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Profanity chip I heard is not much chop. I think it may only have one line fu a-hole and thats it. So it might not be worth the trouble.
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Finished Photos. :D
Game is up and running. Seems to have everything on the playfield working correctly, and from the few games played - all good.
Was able to diagnose the sound issue, and fortunately in time. Research says if uncorrected this issue could have blown my brand new speaker set. Heap of caps and amp chip have been ordered from Great Plains (eta I'm guessing about 2 weeks)
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index3.htm#sound
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-need-help-locating-some-tantalum-caps-for-tz
So with the sound board removed, game play is JUST not the same!
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more...
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last lot....
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That looks awesome!
You should be very happy, that is amazing work.
Thanks for sharing the journey.
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Nice work Trent, a complete transformation
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Nice work Trent, a complete transformation
And thanks Chris for the huge amounts of advice and support, playfield clear coat contact, and machined up parts made ^^^
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looks awesome, congrats.....
when can i come show you how to play it... @@*