The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: MartyJ on January 12, 2009, 07:47:07 PM
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Hi Guys,
OK, this is the second time around on my T2 PF. The first I documented on AA. Basically the PF was sound, no major paint wear but the inserts were badly worn, lifting, missing and not good. The operator at some stage had put mylar over it, which I think saved further damage thankfully. The machine was purchased AS IS - at a very good price so these issues were well known. I put a decal kit on, but I was dissapointed with the actual inserts - as all the white highlighting was not on them, which made them very dull. I was also missing the shoulder / collar bone bits on the T2 in the middle. At the time, I just wanted to get the game playing so I put down some mylar over the decals (lower half of PF) and away we go.
Nearly 12 months on, and after nearly selling her, I've decided to give it another go - with a little bit more experience under my belt and now this place up and running hopefully I can get her back to nearly new.
Sooo, today I started stripping the PF and have removed the old new mylar and decals. Thankfully, the new old mylar was a cheapish one / or they just don't make it the same. It came off very well - although it helps with diamond coat underneith)....I will continue to strip rest of PF. There is some further factory mylar around pop bumpers etc, so I will be super careful around here as it might be day 1 stuff.
It now needs a better clean too, so it will be scrubbed up perfect before the next move...There is some 'scarring' on the green multiply (x) inserts. Previously where the original stuff had broken away you can still see the wear mark on it. I did give it a very light sand before the new decals went on, but didn't help. If anyone has some advise in this area I would appreciate it. IF I can avoid replacing them that is my preference....
I've emailed Marco's to try to find out about the decals. IF my previous were a bad batch - then so be it and I will order another set to go on again. With some help, hopefully I can rebuild / decal the shoulders which will solve another problem. I will need to paint around the teeth as the decal does not cover the entire area either??
I will post further updates as I go...Hopefully may inspire those other members here to finish their T2's as well!! ^^^
As far as the finished product goes - I think putting a clear coat on would be best - maybe two coats. My panel beater friend who does my aprons for me was a bit hesitant to do the PF...So if there is someone in Melb with the skills please let me know+rough cost to clear!
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Great start Marty - Keep the updates coming !
#*#
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cant wait to see th results mate. Nice!
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I'm looking forward to having it finished again too. Going to take my time with this one and hopefully get it right!
Playfield is about 95% stripped. Just have cannon and skull to go and then she is done. Mylar around pop bumpers removed clean! Not much glue left over from old mylar again #*#
Now, noob question. I will completely remove the playfield on this one. What is the best way to do this? I don't really want to have to completely strip underside of PF if this can be avoided. Unlike the D.E there is no big plug for loom on underside before it goes to backbox. Do I need to (label) each plug from PCB's then drop through box?
I'm going to order some new pop bumper bits n pieces from RTBB and some new microswitches. Also need to get a new drop target (with decal). I've seen them on ebay but trying to buy local if possible.
More pics tomorrow when the PF is bare and clean.
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Label each connector - "J121" etc - with a sharpie or permanent marker.
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Well done mate,should be a bit easy the second time round.
I got mine of mark as a project as well,just a lot longer ago.Will pm you regarding the flippers wires as not sure what side of coil they go to.
If you need any scans let me no and as strangeways said mark everything as it makes it a lot easy later.Have you replaced the skull,hunter ship yet as would like to no, are the new ones better than the repo one as they fell so thin and crap,just wanted to no if they are thicker material now.
Keep photos coming and if you need anything let me no as may have it.
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OK..Marco's emailed me back. Unfortunately their decals are exactly as I had. I've googled around and the only other place I can find is classic-arcades.com.
Their T2 decals are advertised as having 'extra' artwork on the two decals I'm trying to make, so it might work out OK. Has anyone dealt with them before?
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OK..Marco's emailed me back. Unfortunately their decals are exactly as I had. I've googled around and the only other place I can find is classic-arcades.com.
Their T2 decals are advertised as having 'extra' artwork on the two decals I'm trying to make, so it might work out OK. Has anyone dealt with them before?
I've ordered from them on one occasion without any problem.
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Well done mate,should be a bit easy the second time round.
I got mine of mark as a project as well,just a lot longer ago.Will pm you regarding the flippers wires as not sure what side of coil they go to.
If you need any scans let me no and as strangeways said mark everything as it makes it a lot easy later.Have you replaced the skull,hunter ship yet as would like to no, are the new ones better than the repo one as they fell so thin and crap,just wanted to no if they are thicker material now.
Keep photos coming and if you need anything let me no as may have it.
Thanks....I've replaced the hunter ship only at this stage....I may do the skull a bit later but its not too bad. I got mine from RTBB and its the best of the ones I've looked at...Its been hit a couple of times but survived..Protectors can be purchased for these now too..
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OK, playfield now completely stripped....Only one bolt was stripped, which I'm happy with.
I've emailed classic-arcades for a set of decals....There store doesn't work with AUS postcodes so hopefully they are happy to sell to us down here.
Still got a bit of glue to clean on old inserts...Now for some questions for the playfield resto gurus:
(1) - How can I clean / fix wear marks on insert plastics (ie left a mark where old decal had gone missing)? Can this be lightly sanded, then novus etc...
(2) - For a Diamond Coat playfield...I'm trying to talk my panel beater / spray painter into doing it for me..Will the entire PF need to be sanded prior to hitting it with first coat of clear (obviously over clear). If this is the case - I'm guessing sand the lot, clean (prepsol or similar), attach decals then give a full coat - not too thick. Then a second coat once tacky and NOT bake, let dry for couple of weeks..?
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Hmm... Nice Playfield ! Try Novus 3 or Orange Solvent for the inserts..
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It would definately need a light sand for the clear to 'key' into, stops delamination occuring from heat/time in the future
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Tonight is Novus night. Will get right into her for a good clean/cut.....
Jeff from Classic-Arcades got back to me, I've ordered the decal set so hopefully I will see it in 2-4 weeks. He certainly looked after me so I'm very happy at this stage... *%*
I'm keen to get the gun handle re done too. I'm guessing this was chromed? The only place I know of only touches new stuff which this is not...
At least whilst I'm waiting for my decals, I can make sure every other part is cleaned / polished etc...
**Just on that..I don't plan on using my little dremmal for doing all playfield bits n pieces. Has anyone got any recommendations for benchtop polishes. I had a look at bunnings and the polishing wheel (attachment type) looked a bit average....Whats a reasonble grinder - and then where to go to get the right wheel?
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Alrightly, decals have been posted from Jeff's end.
Question. I have come to the decision that mylar will go down again, however this time will be a single sheet covering entire playfield. Will be installed with playfield removed.
Now the playfield will be as clean as possible. Thus far I have removed all old glue, shellite, magic eraser with iso alcohol, novus 3, shellite, novus 2, shellite. I want the playfield to be clean and shiny under the mylar, but obviously I cannot wax it etc as it wont bond correctly. Is it OK to clean it with novus 2 again to get it a bit more shine or should I just stick with shellite?
Thanks again
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Tonight is Novus night. Will get right into her for a good clean/cut.....
Jeff from Classic-Arcades got back to me, I've ordered the decal set so hopefully I will see it in 2-4 weeks. He certainly looked after me so I'm very happy at this stage... *%*
I'm keen to get the gun handle re done too. I'm guessing this was chromed? The only place I know of only touches new stuff which this is not...
At least whilst I'm waiting for my decals, I can make sure every other part is cleaned / polished etc...
**Just on that..I don't plan on using my little dremmal for doing all playfield bits n pieces. Has anyone got any recommendations for benchtop polishes. I had a look at bunnings and the polishing wheel (attachment type) looked a bit average....Whats a reasonble grinder - and then where to go to get the right wheel?
thats going to be my next buy as well _ Grinder/ polishing wheel_
I've seen what results Nino gets so I'm convinced
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Well it was for me this month too........But a solder / desolder station came up at a good price, as well as a PCB holder... #@#
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Well it was for me this month too........But a solder / desolder station came up at a good price, as well as a PCB holder... #@#
What model / make did you settle on Marty ?
BTW - I bought a Bench Grinder from Bunnings - 160mm. I removed the safety guards (not needed if you wear goggles and you have to remove it to install the buffing wheel and attachment), and bought a wire wheel for metal brushing and the polishing wheel with attachment. I use White Rouge.
I have found that with the Bench Grinder and Tumbler - I can polish just about anything.
Don't forget the safety glasses. Mine are industrial type that wrap around and protect the sides of your eyes.
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Well it was for me this month too........But a solder / desolder station came up at a good price, as well as a PCB holder... #@#
What model / make did you settle on Marty ?
BTW - I bought a Bench Grinder from Bunnings - 160mm. I removed the safety guards (not needed if you wear goggles and you have to remove it to install the buffing wheel and attachment), and bought a wire wheel for metal brushing and the polishing wheel with attachment. I use White Rouge.
I have found that with the Bench Grinder and Tumbler - I can polish just about anything.
Don't forget the safety glasses. Mine are industrial type that wrap around and protect the sides of your eyes.
The model is the TS1574 from Soanarplus.com. There is no picture on the online store unfortunately. It is their own (no name etc) AFAIK. It will certainly suit my needs.
Good, I have a voucher to use at Bunnings, so this might work out OK. What brand did you get? Also, I had a look at the polishing wheels there and they looked a bit average...Did you get yours there as well?
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Well it was for me this month too........But a solder / desolder station came up at a good price, as well as a PCB holder... #@#
What model / make did you settle on Marty ?
BTW - I bought a Bench Grinder from Bunnings - 160mm. I removed the safety guards (not needed if you wear goggles and you have to remove it to install the buffing wheel and attachment), and bought a wire wheel for metal brushing and the polishing wheel with attachment. I use White Rouge.
I have found that with the Bench Grinder and Tumbler - I can polish just about anything.
Don't forget the safety glasses. Mine are industrial type that wrap around and protect the sides of your eyes.
The model is the TS1574 from Soanarplus.com. There is no picture on the online store unfortunately. It is their own (no name etc) AFAIK. It will certainly suit my needs.
Good, I have a voucher to use at Bunnings, so this might work out OK. What brand did you get? Also, I had a look at the polishing wheels there and they looked a bit average...Did you get yours there as well?
I think it is a Bosche.. I'll check for you - I'm off to Bunnings with Greg this weekend sometime to set him up with the same setup I have.
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OK. Playfield is progressing along nicely. I have given it the once over a couple of times with novus 2, with a very very light lambswool buff. If anything the playfield inserts have come up 100% better than what they were.
Now, if I give it a couple more cleans with novus 2 (with buff) is this going to cause problems when I go to install mylar? Ie leaving residue etc...
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Best to grab a few opinions on this, Marty.
Some like to install the mylar on top on a shiny playfield with a high polish of Novus 2.
I prefer to have good adherence, so I always use Noves 2 to "preview" the imperfections (if any). The I clean the novus OFF with shellite. The Mylar will have its own shine - part of the composition of mylar - is a nice shine.
I'd be worried that the chemical composition of Novus, left behind, would cause issue with the mylar adhering.
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!@#
Yes. I understand exactly what you mean. I've given the pf now 4 coats of novus (3 with it wet) (1 with it hazed). It has come up very very nice. BUT, it does leave a small residue which could cause problems that I don't want!
I await input from those with more knowledge than I.... $%$
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Ok - im confused.
Is that the PF with the decals installed?? Ot is that the PF as it is?
What i see from my end is a bloody pristine PF!
you know with abit of wax and some care of your balls (LOL) that PF will remain just like that.
if it was me and yes this is my own opinion - i wouldnt do anything to it! wax it! chrome balls! play it! its awesome!
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Nope, this is the PF without decals (insert). All the score numbers and other text which does on top of the various insert plastics are 100% missing.
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Playfield out and cab vac'd and cleaned with nifty and slightly damp rag.
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Seriously - You can spend 30 minutes vacuuming and washing the internals (with Nifti!), and it LOOKS a whole lot better AND some of those lingering smells (Cigarette etc) disappear !
Good Stuff, Marty !
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Thanks Nino!...I do feel guilty, cause by now you would have the transformer looking spotless, the grounding strap glistening and the cabinet brackets looking like mirrors....
The LAH needs a cab clean too. Was a bit hesitant to remove a PF, but now I've done it is quite easy. Handy having a good jig too!...
Anyway, side rails have been removed. One repainted already. Managed to snap two screws (one in each) on the flipper mounting brackets for the bush. !*!
Oh well. I will get some new bushes just for the sake of it. I'm pretty sure 100% sure they were new - as Mark did the flipper kit before I bought it..
Also Nino, once you get Greg setup with his polisher/grinder setup, can you let me know what and where you got it as I will get one soon too...
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Thanks Nino!...I do feel guilty, cause by now you would have the transformer looking spotless, the grounding strap glistening and the cabinet brackets looking like mirrors....
The LAH needs a cab clean too. Was a bit hesitant to remove a PF, but now I've done it is quite easy. Handy having a good jig too!...
Anyway, side rails have been removed. One repainted already. Managed to snap two screws (one in each) on the flipper mounting brackets for the bush. !*!
Oh well. I will get some new bushes just for the sake of it. I'm pretty sure 100% sure they were new - as Mark did the flipper kit before I bought it..
Also Nino, once you get Greg setup with his polisher/grinder setup, can you let me know what and where you got it as I will get one soon too...
Were you able to successfully remove the bushing screws ? Sometimes, there are nuts behind the screws and excessive force will snap the heads off.
I might start a thread on the polisher tomorrow, so others like yourself can see how easy it is - and how cheap !
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The nuts came off fine. But I then put a pair of lockgrips on what was left of the thread. Gently worked it but it snapped clean off, flush. I could drill it out but I'll look at getting another bracket. I'm some time off needing it..
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Cleaning of playfield furniture begun. I'm trying to keep it simple, so I am not going to polish brackets etc which are out of sight. Just a good clean / soaking in nifty and hot water with a good brushing...Just to keep it to its operational best.
I also have replaced lube where required, as on the pivot on the ball trough assembly pictured. I bought some Bally lube from Greg ages ago so I assume this is OK?
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Generally speaking - I never use lube on pinballs - except stepper unit shafts on EMs.
I don't believe that there was any lube originally - from factory.
with the ball kick assy - Just clean the shaft with nifti and scotchbrite pad, and the hole with a rag draped over a small screwdriver.
There's nothing wrong with lube, I just don't use it..
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Generally speaking - I never use lube on pinballs - except stepper unit shafts on EMs.
I don't believe that there was any lube originally - from factory.
with the ball kick assy - Just clean the shaft with nifti and scotchbrite pad, and the hole with a rag draped over a small screwdriver.
There's nothing wrong with lube, I just don't use it..
I was hesitant, but metal on metal? In the manual it states the ball shooter lane feeder (which I think it was) needs lubrication oil and has a Williams part no. Its only a small amount so hopefully should be OK. It also states to do the slingshot arms as well? I will inspect once I get to cleaning them.
Bit more progress as to furniture cleaning....Some metal parts been soaked in Nifty, then some 600grit wet and dry with windex. No buff as yet.
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I'm a bit "old school" so I never use lube at all other than EMs. If the manual says to drop some oil in on the moving parts - they thats up to you !
What I use for metal guides is either green scotchbrite pads with Windex, or 180 Wet/Dry then 320 Wet/Dry with Windex. Some guys polish them to a high sheen, which is interesting. But I stick to the original look.
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A little more progress. No more photos as the playfield is still bare and in its jig.
All metal parts have been soaked in nifty, scrubbed, cleaned and thoroughly dried. The metal side-wall ramps have all been lightly sanded as per above method. Slings pulled apart, cleaned & new leaf's ordered..
I've pulled the gun handle off and just waiting for confirmation of whether I can get it rechromed or not. New skull ordered too from RTBB.
A few parts to trickle in over the next couple of days then just waiting for decals to arrive.
I've got some new flipper nylons, but afaik everything else on the flippers were done when I bought it, so I'm not too sure if there is anything else I can do. I figure it may be a bit of a wait on decals, so I might get some felt to put on the jig and flip the pf and just go over every solder and double check all connections too.
A few hours have gone into it, but slowly slowly and hopefully will turn out nice. Still chasing 1 x pf plastic which I cannot source. May have to look at making it myself !@#
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Gun handle dismantled and cleaned (needed it badly)....Lots of gunk on it...
Sent a few emails to local electroplaters to see if they can assist in re-chroming it.
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I've got some new flipper nylons, but afaik everything else on the flippers were done when I bought it, so I'm not too sure if there is anything else I can do. I figure it may be a bit of a wait on decals, so I might get some felt to put on the jig and flip the pf and just go over every solder and double check all connections too.
Check for slop in your flipper linkages, change out if needed and replace coil sleeves while your at it all cheap parts that vastly improve game play *%*
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Progress...Decal set arrived today...It was 98% perfect. Unfortunately the 250,000 (with shoulder artwork) was no good. The horizonal size was out and nothing lined up...BUT as far as the rest I am 100% happier as all the lettering has the white highlighting....The security pass decal is off a bit too...I could probably get away with it but ....(**Edit, nope its spot on...Just need to hand paint the missing bit as not included with decal).**
Soo, two things, can the shoulder piece / 250,000 be made (with the white ink) locally or should I contact Jeff and see if he can send another (just don't want have to wait for US postage)..
Secondly, what do you think I should do around the mouth...It needs to be filled in black, as the teeth are clear. Last time I painted it black, but it looked like a kid had done it with texta?
Thanks guys!
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Looking good Marty,your play field came up like a treat. I got a set of teeth from Marco a while back,if you wont i cant post it to you.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/storeitems.asp?game=Williams&williams=TERMINATOR%202&PageNo=14 (http://www.marcospecialties.com/storeitems.asp?game=Williams&williams=TERMINATOR%202&PageNo=14)
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Very impressive Marty.
The game is coming together very nicely.
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Looking good Marty,your play field came up like a treat. I got a set of teeth from Marco a while back,if you wont i cant post it to you.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/storeitems.asp?game=Williams&williams=TERMINATOR%202&PageNo=14 (http://www.marcospecialties.com/storeitems.asp?game=Williams&williams=TERMINATOR%202&PageNo=14)
Thanks Wonder!....PM Sent.
Very impressive Marty.
The game is coming together very nicely.
Thanks Nino...I was really hoping to get all the decals done in one hit...That way I could let them sit for a day, then mylar and let it settle for a day or so then bat on...Oh well...
The next hurdle is just getting those two lower decals right....
My new skull arrived too from Greg...I may have to pop down to Mark's on Sat as I need to get those blind rivots put in for the eye lamps...He did my last lot on the ramp signs too...
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I've done a bit more work on the security pass insert. I've started to hand paint the uprights (to his neck) which are not included on the decal. Jeff from classic-arcades emailed me back early this morning and he is looking into the issue with the 250,000 decal and hopefully can sort it out. There will be a small amount to hand paint on this one too, but thats AOK. It would be great if this can be done, then all the fonts match etc..and less headaches.....If this cannot be solved, then plan B with some assistance from very kind peoples here we will give it a shot. All mechanical bits and pieces now clean and ready to go. Have 1 plastic to straighten.
I'm not too sure what to do with the lock down bar. I was thinking chrome, but $$ and I don't want to pimp it out. Just going for that clean look. Perhaps just nifty clean, windex & sandpaper then buff?
Anyway, as soon as I've finished the touch ups on the insert will post more!
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I've done a bit more work on the security pass insert. I've started to hand paint the uprights (to his neck) which are not included on the decal. Jeff from classic-arcades emailed me back early this morning and he is looking into the issue with the 250,000 decal and hopefully can sort it out. There will be a small amount to hand paint on this one too, but thats AOK. It would be great if this can be done, then all the fonts match etc..and less headaches.....If this cannot be solved, then plan B with some assistance from very kind peoples here we will give it a shot. All mechanical bits and pieces now clean and ready to go. Have 1 plastic to straighten.
I'm not too sure what to do with the lock down bar. I was thinking chrome, but $$ and I don't want to pimp it out. Just going for that clean look. Perhaps just nifty clean, windex & sandpaper then buff?
Anyway, as soon as I've finished the touch ups on the insert will post more!
Lock Down Bar - 320 Grit Wet with Windox. Straight and full fines. Then just wipe excess off with Windex and a rag.
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I've done a bit more work on the security pass insert. I've started to hand paint the uprights (to his neck) which are not included on the decal. Jeff from classic-arcades emailed me back early this morning and he is looking into the issue with the 250,000 decal and hopefully can sort it out. There will be a small amount to hand paint on this one too, but thats AOK. It would be great if this can be done, then all the fonts match etc..and less headaches.....If this cannot be solved, then plan B with some assistance from very kind peoples here we will give it a shot. All mechanical bits and pieces now clean and ready to go. Have 1 plastic to straighten.
I'm not too sure what to do with the lock down bar. I was thinking chrome, but $$ and I don't want to pimp it out. Just going for that clean look. Perhaps just nifty clean, windex & sandpaper then buff?
Anyway, as soon as I've finished the touch ups on the insert will post more!
Lock Down Bar - 320 Grit Wet with Windox. Straight and full fines. Then just wipe excess off with Windex and a rag.
Done.
Artwork started around neck (not covered by decal)....
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Slowly progressing, big thanks to Wonder for sending me the teeth decal. I had to trim it a bit to fit, but looks a lot better...Thanks again!
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Great update - Now the Terminator can eat Solids !^!
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I don't normally read restore thread anymore but this one has been a treat Marty
the amount of work and attention to not only the T2 but also the Police Force is fantastic
keep up the great work
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I don't normally read restore thread anymore but this one has been a treat Marty
the amount of work and attention to not only the T2 but also the Police Force is fantastic
keep up the great work
Can i ask why not greg ?
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I don't normally read restore thread anymore but this one has been a treat Marty
the amount of work and attention to not only the T2 but also the Police Force is fantastic
keep up the great work
Thankyou Greg.
For me, the best part(s) of this site is (a) the technical help. I absolutely love it how everyone 'drops' everything and spends so much time trouble shooting and knowledge sharing & (b) reading the resto threads...The quality of peoples work here is astounding. It really does push you to go the extra step to getting a great machine.
I'm now very glad I kept the T2. I would have been very sad if it had been sold. Its getting there, slowly. The gun handle is off getting chromed.
I've cleaned up the teeth decal a little to..Where I had to trim it, you could see the white. I've touched the paper up with some black paint and clear so you cannot see the white line now too.
Will post more soon....
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I found some pics of the playfield prior to playfield rebuild #1. Such a shame about the condition of the decals, as the rest of the PF was in VGC and the machine overall is pretty much faultless....
And yes, an OP had done a Magiver and used the news agency rub on stencil for the numbers!
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Marty - those "before" pix really tell the story...
You have really brought this playfield back to life. #*#
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I don't normally read restore thread anymore but this one has been a treat Marty
the amount of work and attention to not only the T2 but also the Police Force is fantastic
keep up the great work
Can i ask why not greg ?
no
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OK then.. &^&
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OK then.. &^&
Mate there's no need to go that far &^&
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Not much to update unfortunately. The decal saga is continuing, but I have a contingency now if further problems arise.. @.@
I've gone as far as I can, all has been cleaned, grained and is ready to go back on playfield. I've decided to swap out the playfield flashers (#89's) with some of RTBB's hyperbright LED flashers. I've done this for a couple of reasons (a) cause they're cool () and super bright & (b) some of the flashers are very hard to get to, so the long life of the LED's should outlast the playfield (until Mark can find me a NOS one)...
Can't wait to see the flashers in action with the other playfield LED's.
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As far as the shooter lane goes, I would like to clean it up further..In my boredom I've been looking at some resto photos the Treasure Cove has done. It would seem that this is an area that on all their machines are always absolutely spotless. I've tried the usual suspects - nifty on rag, magic eraser with shellite etc..but there is some marks which I cannot get off?
Any ideas would be appreciated too?
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Very fine sandpaper?
Will wait to see if anyone agrees.
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I'm surprised ME does not work, Marty..
I guess the suggestion of sandpaper might work, but has the area where the dirt has deposited have a "groove" where the ball runs down ?
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OK,
Two photos below are area in question. The first (area near ball lane armature) was a bit of concern. I found a bit of a crack through timber as I guess the constant thumping / movement of the arm has caused this. Might be an idea for other T2 owners to check too.
You can see the marks / dirt I am talking about. I have gone over with ME quite hard without value.
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Gun handles back....hmmm shiney...
I've polished the security bolts which hold it together. They were originally a rusty matt black colour. I used the old bolt in the drill on wet n dry method on these. They may rust up. If that happens then I will remove, redo and clear.
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OK,
Two photos below are area in question. The first (area near ball lane armature) was a bit of concern. I found a bit of a crack through timber as I guess the constant thumping / movement of the arm has caused this. Might be an idea for other T2 owners to check too.
You can see the marks / dirt I am talking about. I have gone over with ME quite hard without value.
So ME does not lift the dirt - it looks to have created a "track".
On older machines without clearcoats, I roll some 800 grit around the skinny end of an old billiard cue and "sand away" the dirt. But I would not recommend this for your game. It looks like the dirt in the upper section is embedded in the cracks of the clearcoat ?
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OK,
Two photos below are area in question. The first (area near ball lane armature) was a bit of concern. I found a bit of a crack through timber as I guess the constant thumping / movement of the arm has caused this. Might be an idea for other T2 owners to check too.
You can see the marks / dirt I am talking about. I have gone over with ME quite hard without value.
So ME does not lift the dirt - it looks to have created a "track".
On older machines without clearcoats, I roll some 800 grit around the skinny end of an old billiard cue and "sand away" the dirt. But I would not recommend this for your game. It looks like the dirt in the upper section is embedded in the cracks of the clearcoat ?
I think your 100% right Nino. I've lightly sanded back where the crack on top was (has been fixed underside with a plate across it, so it wont move again). The rest I will leave.
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Gun handle fully assembled & lubed
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Very nice Marty..
$#$
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Yes, will definitely get the Dirty Harry gun handle done after seeing the result there - just got to not want to play it for a while first.
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Yes, will definitely get the Dirty Harry gun handle done after seeing the result there - just got to not want to play it for a while first.
Yup, definately nice work. Both ramps getting done now too. Thats it...No more spending on the T2! She's had all her birthday pressies...
You may be able to still play the game with the handle removed. On the T2 - I'm 99.9% sure there is an option in the game diagnostics to disable it and use the double tap on the left flipper...LAH is the same.
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Yes, will definitely get the Dirty Harry gun handle done after seeing the result there - just got to not want to play it for a while first.
Yup, definately nice work. Both ramps getting done now too. Thats it...No more spending on the T2! She's had all her birthday pressies...
You may be able to still play the game with the handle removed. On the T2 - I'm 99.9% sure there is an option in the game diagnostics to disable it and use the double tap on the left flipper...LAH is the same.
OK, will check that out as I have downloaded the manual for this one. Once I do the handle, though, I will have to work out what to do with the rest of it. It is in very good nick but I am sure there are a few things that could be done to make it even better.
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Update....Been away very busy with work.
Last decal arrived during week. Had to modify to get it to fit, but is in and done. Mylar has been placed down (1hr job). Very slowly (dry) method as described in another post but worked very very well.
Playfield to be reassembled when I can get a few spare moments, but the hardest (and most nerve racking) is done @#%
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Excellent work Marty !
@@* @@*
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Looking great - well worth your effort!
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You have to be happy with that - has come up real nice!
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Thanks guys!
Yep, should play a lot better too. The previous decals (old ones) did not even fit inside the inserts properly, so lots of little bumps. The decal I had to cut (250,000) to fit, does have slight ridge, but there was no other option really to get it right.
The playfield is now 100% mylared in one single sheet, no bubbles or creases!.
I'm about 1/2 way through putting pf back together...
More photos to come!
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Thanks guys!
Yep, should play a lot better too. The previous decals (old ones) did not even fit inside the inserts properly, so lots of little bumps. The decal I had to cut (250,000) to fit, does have slight ridge, but there was no other option really to get it right.
The playfield is now 100% mylared in one single sheet, no bubbles or creases!.
I'm about 1/2 way through putting pf back together...
More photos to come!
STOP!! Marty, hold it right there. Seeing you're now officially a professional restorer and your T2 playfield looks magic, I reckon you need to hone your talents a little more. I'm willing to contribute to better yourself by offering to swap my T2 playfield for yours. Hows that sound....we got a deal???
I can't hear my phone ringing!!!
Looks great mate, you got me really thinking hard in trying the same with mine (especially seeing you look like you got the decal thing licked). I've got Owen coming around soon and get his input on whether my T2 needs a mylar removal or not. I'm still not sure if I'm being too picky.
Look forward to the next pix
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Thanks guys!
Yep, should play a lot better too. The previous decals (old ones) did not even fit inside the inserts properly, so lots of little bumps. The decal I had to cut (250,000) to fit, does have slight ridge, but there was no other option really to get it right.
The playfield is now 100% mylared in one single sheet, no bubbles or creases!.
I'm about 1/2 way through putting pf back together...
More photos to come!
STOP!! Marty, hold it right there. Seeing you're now officially a professional restorer and your T2 playfield looks magic, I reckon you need to hone your talents a little more. I'm willing to contribute to better yourself by offering to swap my T2 playfield for yours. Hows that sound....we got a deal???
I can't hear my phone ringing!!!
Looks great mate, you got me really thinking hard in trying the same with mine (especially seeing you look like you got the decal thing licked). I've got Owen coming around soon and get his input on whether my T2 needs a mylar removal or not. I'm still not sure if I'm being too picky.
Look forward to the next pix
Haha! I havn't seen photos of yours, but if its mylar over original playfield - w/o wear I'd say your're on a winner.
Ok, bit more playfield furniture on. Slowly slowly....Mark, I don't know how your guys manage to get things done so quickly. Its taken me about 13hrs today, just to put down mylar and start re-populating the playfield...(and the loom and underside was left on!).
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Looks bloody good Marty.Nothing better than having a nice clean, shinning play field.Will be a treat to play when all back together.
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looking good. Hey Marty what did the gun re-chrome set you back or did a friend etc do it for you at mates rates?
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looking good. Hey Marty what did the gun re-chrome set you back or did a friend etc do it for you at mates rates?
I was looking at getting it done locally, but they're never open on the weekends either so I didn't want to pay postage etc...
Shoot MarkC a PM. He will point you in the right direction *%*
Looks bloody good Marty.Nothing better than having a nice clean, shinning play field.Will be a treat to play when all back together.
Thanks Wonder! Those teeth of yours came up a treat. Thanks again, really appreciated.
As soon as the ramps come back, she'll be ready to go. I cannot wait to play a game. I also splashed out a little. There was a PinballPro speaker kit on ebay going at a reasonable price (BNIB), from a customer of Marks who had a Dr Who I think. He sold the machine before it arrived so saved about $100+. They should arrive this week to. Along with RTBB #89 super bright LED's on PF, all insert's LED'd she should be fun.
All I've got left is to install new globe holders in bumpers and *!@....thats really about it. @@*
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Thanks for the tip Marty, BTW I notice the hunter ship on an angle, mines nearly straight. I haven't checked out the IPDB but yours kinda looks pretty good from the pix. I just wondered which is the original position from the factory. Just out of interest as its simple to bend the wires to suit.
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Thanks for the tip Marty, BTW I notice the hunter ship on an angle, mines nearly straight. I haven't checked out the IPDB but yours kinda looks pretty good from the pix. I just wondered which is the original position from the factory. Just out of interest as its simple to bend the wires to suit.
Not too sure? It was brand new and didn't look bent..I'll have to look into it!
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Looking even better all put together again (almost).
Great job.
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Looking even better all put together again (almost).
Great job.
Yeah, came up a treat. I'm actually very happy with the result. So hopefully as long as the mylar stays intact and the decals stay put, $#$
I fired her up after reseating some connectors its back to life. I must say, Gregs #89 LED's are so bright. I'm very very happy with those!
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Can't stop looking at the great work, but it also reminds me of many questions I've been meaning to ask. Does the metal plate on the RHS ball return guides of yours only have a hole milled out for the flasher? Whereas the LHS has the flasher and #44 globe present. Mine one is like that and have been always thinking maybe to drill a hole for the RHS #44
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Thats one nice looking T2 Marty ! ^^^
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Coming along well mate ^^^
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Can't stop looking at the great work, but it also reminds me of many questions I've been meaning to ask. Does the metal plate on the RHS ball return guides of yours only have a hole milled out for the flasher? Whereas the LHS has the flasher and #44 globe present. Mine one is like that and have been always thinking maybe to drill a hole for the RHS #44
I had never even noticed this until you pointed it out :lol No. THe #89's (larger ones) are both done, but the #44/#47 on the R/H/S is not. It would be an easy job to do, but I'm not sure yet. I ran out of #89 flashers, so the two under the ball returns are still stock. Soo, another order into RTBB to finalise that. The T2 is a worthy game for LED's.
Coming along well mate ^^^
Thats one nice looking T2 Marty ! ^^^
Looking even better all put together again (almost).
Great job.
Thanks guys. Still not quite up to the standards of the rest of the crew here, but my next project (hopefully a HS2 or Flintstones) I will aim to one better. From comparing the old old before shots she's come up all right. I can understand why the commercial guys cannot always do this as the amount of hours that need to go into it would basically right the machine off. But thats why I like buying projects!
I've been having intermittent problems over the last day. Still loosing the r/h/s GI lighting and intermittant problems with some coils / motors (ie ball return & gun motor). I pulled out the PCB and tested all the pins / tracks, TIP's and so forth as per Marvins guide. One of the header pin banks has been repaired but everything buzzed out ok. The yellow wires from transformer to molex was also listed as sometimes causing GI problems. I've reseated this a few times and problem as gone away again. I will keep an eye on it.
My cheap pinballpro speaker kit arrived today as well. Not a bad kit at all, went in very easy and definately made a big improvement with sound. I can see on a GNR pin would be very worthwhile!
Once the ramps go back in, I'll be pumped for a game.
At this stage the mylar is covering 100% of the playfield. I have not cut around posts at all. From reading RGP etc the main theme was NOT to overtighten or do up with power tools. All posts are just nipped - finger tight. I think the main ones of concern are the plastic posts on the slings. These can be cut around if necessary, but again are not super tight. I'm certainly open to ideas/thoughts on this.
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Don't sell yourself short here Marty, your work on this machine has been excellent.
T2 and Flintstones have great appeal to me, and I'd love to see your T2 when done. Flintstones is a great title, and Wotto's was just a 10/10 machine. Good choice !
GI problems are almost always connectors, or dry joints on the GI connectors on the boards.
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Don't sell yourself short here Marty, your work on this machine has been excellent.
T2 and Flintstones have great appeal to me, and I'd love to see your T2 when done. Flintstones is a great title, and Wotto's was just a 10/10 machine. Good choice !
GI problems are almost always connectors, or dry joints on the GI connectors on the boards.
I agree re Wotto's machine. From his website those photos of the machine look unreal. I'm still yet to play a Flintstones. Next time Mark gets one I will have a game or two.
The G.I connectors on the PCB and header pins look like they had been replaced. Given only those had been disconnected I thought it was a connection problem at that end, rather than the transformer which had not been touched. I will continue to monitor.
What do you think I should do re mylar around the posts - in particular the slings? Should I cut it away or leave?
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the pinball pro kit came from a bloke who brought a few pins from me
he sold the pin he was going to put that in .
the kits do make a big difference
the playfield looks great well done and a great job there
and yes Flintstones is a very underrated game , well a game or two on
wottos one was very nice
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Thanks guys. Still not quite up to the standards of the rest of the crew here, but my next project (hopefully a HS2 or Flintstones) I will aim to one better. From comparing the old old before shots she's come up all right.
Don't under estimate your self Marty.
Machine came up and looks very,very nice.You just raised the bar level for me, when i finally get around to finishing mine.
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Don't sell yourself short here Marty, your work on this machine has been excellent.
T2 and Flintstones have great appeal to me, and I'd love to see your T2 when done. Flintstones is a great title, and Wotto's was just a 10/10 machine. Good choice !
GI problems are almost always connectors, or dry joints on the GI connectors on the boards.
I agree re Wotto's machine. From his website those photos of the machine look unreal. I'm still yet to play a Flintstones. Next time Mark gets one I will have a game or two.
The G.I connectors on the PCB and header pins look like they had been replaced. Given only those had been disconnected I thought it was a connection problem at that end, rather than the transformer which had not been touched. I will continue to monitor.
What do you think I should do re mylar around the posts - in particular the slings? Should I cut it away or leave?
As soon as you tighten the posts, the mylar may start to move twist over time. This was apparent in the old days of laying on contact (pre mylar). Today's mylar is thicker and stronger. you may get away with leaving it "as is". I'd place additional mylar on any ball drop areas and MAYBE in front of the slings. It's route days are over, so it will not be heavily played anymore !
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OK thanks Nino. I've put some of RTBB's bumper rings on. They are a thicker material. Mainly because the bumpers on the T2 get a lot of work!
I can understand the mylar twisting / tearing with over tightening posts. Each one was checked when done up and only 'nipped
' a bit beyond finger tight.
The only other spot I may look at is the ball drops from the two ramps. I don't think I've seen a T2 without wear on those to spots.
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I can understand the mylar twisting / tearing with over tightening posts. Each one was checked when done up and only 'nipped
' a bit beyond finger tight.
Maybe try and hold the post with some pliers before you tighten the bolt, as it may stop the twisting effect on the mylar. !@#
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Marty, I tried to quickly find your initial thread on AA but without success. You really got me considering very hard following your path. But I want to prepare myself as much as possible. You used the heat method. What did you used to remove the glue from the playfield and did you squirt it under the mylar? Also what did you use to finally clean the playfield with, I read one article using napthane or something. Just want to get all the tooling and chemicals sourced and ready before kicking arse. Thanks
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Marty, I tried to quickly find your initial thread on AA but without success. You really got me considering very hard following your path. But I want to prepare myself as much as possible. You used the heat method. What did you used to remove the glue from the playfield and did you squirt it under the mylar? Also what did you use to finally clean the playfield with, I read one article using napthane or something. Just want to get all the tooling and chemicals sourced and ready before kicking arse. Thanks
Naphtha is Shellite from Bunnings - Cheap but STINKY (like me %.%).
The "hair Dryer" method is best, no real need to squirt anything under the playfield. You might find a few restore threads here covering it, but the best advise I can give is for you to TAKE YOUR TIME, and try a test section first.
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Mate, what a great second attempt, that looks sensational.
I haven't been here for a while and was only thinking last week its time to strip my T2 and get stuck it into.(Was thinking about selling mine too but played a few games and can't part with it)
Your work is very inspiring to say the least ^^^
I have a small amount of insert cracking compared to what you have been through and your thread will make it a hell of a lot easier to deal with mine.
The decals you applied look factory fitted a real credit to your workmanship, I think I drank 4 beers ohhing and aghing over this thread.
Well done and thankyou for documenting it so well!
Can't wait to get stuck into mine now.
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Marty, I tried to quickly find your initial thread on AA but without success. You really got me considering very hard following your path. But I want to prepare myself as much as possible. You used the heat method. What did you used to remove the glue from the playfield and did you squirt it under the mylar? Also what did you use to finally clean the playfield with, I read one article using napthane or something. Just want to get all the tooling and chemicals sourced and ready before kicking arse. Thanks
The first mylar removal was done with the hair dryer. Basically I carefully lifted an edge of the mylar with a finger and gently heated both the top and underside of the mylar. When you find the 'sweet spot' it will generally peel away with the slightest of pressure - almost nothing except holding it. The second lot was done exactly the same, except I was given a Ryobi heat gun for xmas, as the lovely was getting upset I kept using her good hairdryer!. The Ryobi one is good as there are different attachments to focus the heat, as well as temp is more adjustable, however a hairdryer will do just fine. It will look pretty bad once you remove the mylar, but as Nino suggested Shellite is fantastic for this. Just a lot of clean rags and time. No squirting of liquid onto the playfield. Just put shellite onto rag, rag onto pf and scrub. From memory the first one took about 3 hours to clean properly. The best advise I can give with this, from my experiences, is to (a) get a hold of or build a playfield jig, (b) remove playfield from machine (c) completely strip top side of playfield. Although it will take a bit more time at the start you will get a much better result. Shellite is available from Bunnings or the supermarket. If you want to build a homemade playfield JIG, Nino's is documented and my pirated knockoff version of his is also there too, with measurements and costs (bit over $40.00 from memory).
Give it a go. Start stripping the playfield, its always a good start and good to clean all posts, rubbers and furniture too! My final bit of advise, if you can get an independant person to assist with photographing and bag labelling of playfield parts, this will help. I generally start out the right way, then get focused and forget to take pictures. Photos, more photos and more photos from every angle, of every part. Will make the rebuild a lot easier.
Mate, what a great second attempt, that looks sensational.
I haven't been here for a while and was only thinking last week its time to strip my T2 and get stuck it into.(Was thinking about selling mine too but played a few games and can't part with it)
Your work is very inspiring to say the least ^^^
I have a small amount of insert cracking compared to what you have been through and your thread will make it a hell of a lot easier to deal with mine.
The decals you applied look factory fitted a real credit to your workmanship, I think I drank 4 beers ohhing and aghing over this thread.
Well done and thankyou for documenting it so well!
Can't wait to get stuck into mine now.
Wow, thankyou. This site and the guys here continually raise the bar when it comes to restores. I'm looking forward to seeing another T2 thread!
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Thnaks Nino & Marty for the advice. Looking at my playfield, the mylar seems to be targeted at specific areas ie. the open area portion of the playfield starting at th eshoot again insert all the way to the skull opening. There doesn't seem to be many things populated around these areas. So I'm thinking remove everything bar pop bumpers, canon and the skull. The mylar around the pop bumpers is still quite good. I wasn't even considering of removing the playfield as I'm not going to mylar or clear coat, just wax. T2 probably gets 100 games played per year.
What do you reckon, or is there more reasoning behind removing everything that I haven't considered?
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Thnaks Nino & Marty for the advice. Looking at my playfield, the mylar seems to be targeted at specific areas ie. the open area portion of the playfield starting at th eshoot again insert all the way to the skull opening. There doesn't seem to be many things populated around these areas. So I'm thinking remove everything bar pop bumpers, canon and the skull. The mylar around the pop bumpers is still quite good. I wasn't even considering of removing the playfield as I'm not going to mylar or clear coat, just wax. T2 probably gets 100 games played per year.
What do you reckon, or is there more reasoning behind removing everything that I haven't considered?
I guess it depends on what you are doing with the playfield. For me, having done the T2 now twice (officially), I found it much easer to remove parts from playfield whilst having it out on the stand, as well as cleaning it was sooo easy this way (mind you I am a shortarse).. If the area around pop bumpers is fine, then lower half of playfield it is! Me personally, I would then remove all plastics, slings, posts etc down to apron and hardware below. Its probably worth removing all of it and giving it a real good clean.
If you have a stand (or decide to make one) its really very easy removing the playfield. I've avoided it for a long time thinking it was a massive job, but its not. As Nino suggested to me, its only about 10 or so plugs to remove from backboard for the whole loom, drop to lower cab and remove - helps with a second person too. Just label and photograph once you identify which ones to remove. Just keep in mind not all the posts have t-nuts, so there will be a lot of going under the pf to remove nuts.
However, it can be done insitu no probs. Just set yourself up so your comfortable and confident!
The plastic area around the skull is a little fiddly. Easy to break the plastic too (found out the hard way).
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you're right about the skull area, although I found a better way in doing it. Mind you because I haven't done it for a long time, I've forgotten, so it'll be fiddley and then when its all over, I'll figure the easy way again. Always the case. Although I may have it on video, gotta try and track it down.
I will remove as much as possible, but you are right about worrying to remove the playfield. I figure its a major job, however, I'll have a careful look at it now seeing you reckon it's not that major. Since being on these sites I've done things that scared me shitless before and now they don't bother me.
I think its the "how much will it cost to fix the stuff up" or even worse can it be fixed after I've screwed it up. I've found most things aren't that tragic, parts seem to pop up here and there etc etc.
BTW the shellite, is it used to remove the residule glue? I read people in the US use GOO GONE then do a final clean with napthane/shellite. Did you ise only shellite and elbow grease?
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you're right about the skull area, although I found a better way in doing it. Mind you because I haven't done it for a long time, I've forgotten, so it'll be fiddley and then when its all over, I'll figure the easy way again. Always the case. Although I may have it on video, gotta try and track it down.
I will remove as much as possible, but you are right about worrying to remove the playfield. I figure its a major job, however, I'll have a careful look at it now seeing you reckon it's not that major. Since being on these sites I've done things that scared me shitless before and now they don't bother me.
I think its the "how much will it cost to fix the stuff up" or even worse can it be fixed after I've screwed it up. I've found most things aren't that tragic, parts seem to pop up here and there etc etc.
BTW the shellite, is it used to remove the residule glue? I read people in the US use GOO GONE then do a final clean with napthane/shellite. Did you ise only shellite and elbow grease?
As long as you don't drop the playfield, or break any underside parts, you will be fine!
Yes, the shellite is used for glue removal. I've read about the goo gone, but it can affect paint to my knowledge.
Last time I only used shellite and worked very well
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you're right about the skull area, although I found a better way in doing it. Mind you because I haven't done it for a long time, I've forgotten, so it'll be fiddley and then when its all over, I'll figure the easy way again. Always the case. Although I may have it on video, gotta try and track it down.
I will remove as much as possible, but you are right about worrying to remove the playfield. I figure its a major job, however, I'll have a careful look at it now seeing you reckon it's not that major. Since being on these sites I've done things that scared me shitless before and now they don't bother me.
I think its the "how much will it cost to fix the stuff up" or even worse can it be fixed after I've screwed it up. I've found most things aren't that tragic, parts seem to pop up here and there etc etc.
BTW the shellite, is it used to remove the residule glue? I read people in the US use GOO GONE then do a final clean with napthane/shellite. Did you ise only shellite and elbow grease?
Goo gone can eat into the paintwork if let on for too long, some people apparently use it without any dramas, but shellite works fine, is cheaper, and no risk.
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Thanks KTM its always good to be reassured that using a product is ok. Thanks to Marty looks like I'm gonna have a go. Will try to track down the jig specs
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Always TRY with the product that is less aggressive.
Use the shellite in a well ventilated area, and use a desklamp, shining on an angle where you can see where you need to rub the residue off.
Goof Off is aggressive, and is a last resort for me.
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Always TRY with the product that is less aggressive.
Use the shellite in a well ventilated area, and use a desklamp, shining on an angle where you can see where you need to rub the residue off.
Goof Off is aggressive, and is a last resort for me.
Thanks for the good advice Nino
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Always TRY with the product that is less aggressive.
Use the shellite in a well ventilated area, and use a desklamp, shining on an angle where you can see where you need to rub the residue off.
Goof Off is aggressive, and is a last resort for me.
Thanks for the good advice Nino
Well, PG sounds like your armed and ready to go! I hope to see a new resto thread started soon!
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Yea... Get on with it !
$#$
After all, You are the God of Pinball %.%
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Talk about pressure, does it seem hot in here??
Just going through the checklist:
1. know what tools & chemicals needed, just need to purchase - check
2. know decals are available if required re: Marty - check
3. pretty clued up on the method & procedure - check
4. psyched up for the task (well close enough) - check
5. shoulder to cry on when things turn shit re: Nino - check
Yep I think I'm ready. Will attempt in a couple of weeks or so and start a small thread. Got to do a little bit of home improvements ie. painting and get the carpet removed/floors polished. So a lot of moving furniture around, and hotel stays.
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Talk about pressure, does it seem hot in here??
Just going through the checklist:
1. know what tools & chemicals needed, just need to purchase - check
2. know decals are available if required re: Marty - check
3. pretty clued up on the method & procedure - check
4. psyched up for the task (well close enough) - check
5. shoulder to cry on when things turn shit re: Nino - check
Yep I think I'm ready. Will attempt in a couple of weeks or so and start a small thread. Got to do a little bit of home improvements ie. painting and get the carpet removed/floors polished. So a lot of moving furniture around, and hotel stays.
Just work a little harder on Point #4 - All the rest is a "given" &&
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Last update for the Terminator. Ramps came back today. They are perfect. Awesome chrome job and finish it off very nicely.
Nothing left to do on it now. Pinball pro sound system is in, playfield finished, ramps done, electrics done.
Big thanks to Mark for his assistance and Greg (RTBB) for the LED's which just makes the game perfect and big thanks to Nino, Wotto and Retropin for advice and the rest of the crew here!
Big :D to Wonder for the teeth
Now for some final pics!
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More...
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Finally...
Last shot very difficult to take. One LED is not shown but is working. Unfortunately you cant get the full effect of the #89 flashers, but blinding is an understatement!
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Gotta be happy with that - all the hard work has certainly paid off.
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Gotta be happy with that - all the hard work has certainly paid off.
Yep it sure did. I am quite happy with the result. The first resto was just to clean it up, so it was more playable. But now, it plays 100%, fast, smooth and looks a lot neater and much better with the classic-arcades decals too.
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WOW !
Simply awesome - Best T@ I've ever seen - must play like new ?
Congrats - and THANKS for sharing the process with us !
$#$ $#$
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perfect IMO!!
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Looks great Marty, did you have any luck chasing up a RH sling plastic?
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Looks great Marty, did you have any luck chasing up a RH sling plastic?
Nope. ^&(
Cannot source it anywhere...
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That is disapointing mate, its the only little thing that lets your restoration down. Good luck searching, one will pop up somewhere
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well done, @@*
I like the led lights,looks nice and bright.Hows the sound with the new system.
Now can move onto the next project Marty.
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Looks great Marty, did you have any luck chasing up a RH sling plastic?
Have you tried here Marty: http://www.bestofpinball.de/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/4371
I have used them a number of times. Buy with confidence.
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Thanks Creech,
I've bought other T2 plastics from Team Bop! previously...Great place and top quality products too...Unfortunately the one I need (the hand) is not available (they're out) and have been for 6 months !!!
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bugger they have left plastic good luck with the right one
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well done, @@*
I like the led lights,looks nice and bright.Hows the sound with the new system.
Now can move onto the next project Marty.
Thanks Wonder!,
Love the LED's!..
The new sound system is quite good. Definately more bass and a clear sound. I picked it up as was going cheap and the right kit for the T2...Not sure if I could justify the expense on other games but GNR would be a must....
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While painting the home I have a little time to think of things. I'm considering trying the freeze method rather than heat. I've read that it has less chance of lifting paint & decals.
Anyone tried it? If so where do you buy the stuff and also does this method come with any problems of its own?
Unsure when I'll get a chance to do T2 as if I go ahead with sale of my house, I think the mess and shellite smell might not be a big selling point on the Sale sign outside. But I'll cross that bridge when I come to it
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While painting the home I have a little time to think of things. I'm considering trying the freeze method rather than heat. I've read that it has less chance of lifting paint & decals.
Anyone tried it? If so where do you buy the stuff and also does this method come with any problems of its own?
Unsure when I'll get a chance to do T2 as if I go ahead with sale of my house, I think the mess and shellite smell might not be a big selling point on the Sale sign outside. But I'll cross that bridge when I come to it
You can get the cans of O2 from DSE, but they're about $14.00 a can, which is very expensive...I've never done this method so can't comment...From my research, if you were doing a Sys11 game, there would be a very high chance of lifting decals. I think machines post sys11 ie T2 with a diamondplated playfield, you would be very unluckly to lift anything, but would still need to do it slowly.
If its not causing issues, or lifting massively I would leave it....Having working pins I think would be a good selling point for your house for those open for inspections!