LED's = very 'game' dependent IMO.
I was doing the 'mix n match' with some LED and some standards for quite a while- ONLY under 'certain' inserts' in the playfield.
I do not put ANY LED's in backboxes.
I ALWAYS use LED"s in ALL flasher locations.
Recently however I
re-tried some bright WHITE leds in
ALL of the playfield GI for WH20 and it looks
EXCELLENT , I had tried some WIDE ANGLE and FROSTED white LED's in the GI years back and didnt like it then , but now I have done the whole playfield in bright ( 4LED ) whites ( thanks greg
) I would not go back, the game is heaps brighter overall and very 'brilliant'.
I liked it so much that I then did Monopoly the same way - same results - MUCH brighter and 'cleaner' looking.
All of this made my CFTBL sitting next to them look AWFULLY 'dull' - so I went off and did that too -
BAD move.......as that game is so much more suited to the dimmer incandescent bulbs rather than the brightness of the GI's. Also, when the game goes into the Movie Madness / 2 ball mode the game 'seems' to dim ( my imagination
) and the LED's in the GI wouldnt create that same effect. So I changed that game back and my CFTBL has incandescent GI, with SOME PF inserts in LED's and all flashers in LEDS.
On the other hand the T3 I got from Nino is CHOCK FULL of LED's everywhere and just looks outstanding.
So - as Cavey will testify, to get the best out of LED"s it takes hours and hours of experimenting back and forth until YOU feel it is the way YOU want YOUR game to appear.
My next title will also get the LED treatment
The only disappointment with LED's is that while they look good in real life , they look god-damn AWFUL in photographs, the colours that ( in real life ) look nice and highlight certain PF area's, look like big green or blue BLOBS in most images you see. I have tried many different ways to photograph WH20 to show here and it looks SH&T in a photo
