pin2000 crt replacement

[pinball god]

Hi guys, removed my ducksan from the rfm to replace with a new WG crt and video amplifier. Problem is the holes on the new chasis does not line up at all on the mounting plate on the p2000 bracket.

My question is, I am making a subplate from perspex to mount the chasis using plastic standoffs and mount this onto the existing metal plate. Is this going to be a problem ie. Does it get real hot for the perspex to melt or any other reasons to dump this mod.

[Pinballer]

Difficult to say without seeing your idea put together.  If the perspex subframe has a sufficient air gap from the tube itself and is made of thick perspex capable of carrying the weight of the tube, then it should be okay.  If you are asking the perspex to span a considerable space without good support, I would advise against it.  The last thing you want is the perspex breaking, the tube moving and potentially damaging it and other parts of the machine.  

[pinball god]

sorry for not explaining it vey well. The chassis I'm referring to is the pcb with all the adjustment controls etc

The first pic is of the main bracketing with the outside plate where the chassis and secondary plate connect to. The second is of the secondary plate that the chassis actually mounts to. I think this ensures no solder points will touch metal on the first plate. The problem is no holes on the new chassis match.

The third pic is of the chassis and fourth is where the secondary plate slots into the other plate. In fact in this shot I have a sheets of perspex attached to the metal plate and only needs 4 holes/slots for pcb plastic standoffs to enable mounting the chassis to it.

[pinball god]

I'm also thinking I could even do away with the solid metal plate all together but may weaken the bracketing structure

[Pinballer]

Thanks for painting the picture. Your assumptions are correct and your solution seems like a good one. If the frame looses it's structural strength without the plate you could always drill and tap new holes to line up with the new chassis. As long as when you mount the new chassis all of the conductive surfaces (components, solder joints) remain free from touching the metal surface. Or mount the perspex plate in place of the perspex as you mentioned.

[Toads]

 Is there a reason you didn't swap out for a lcd screen?

[pinball god]

Is there a reason you didn't swap out for a lcd screen?

yep I have a new crt and think they produce a nicer effect

[pinball god]

Ok all together and the result is crap. I have this for picture. I get distorted graphics and 'no signal in' constantly  appearing.

I connected 5v via the pc and have it, and have connected as per stuff on the web pins 1;2;3 rgb, 4&8 ground and pin 10 +/- horizontal sync/comp

My problem is I followed a wells gardner 19K7302 (the one my wife broke) and my new one bought from wayne is PD137700/PD197700.

Any idea what causes this kind of picture? Do I need to add more wiring to say the vertical sync (hope not)?

I've as careful in research and testing my connections etc so am really dejected from the result. Any help would be appreciated.

Oh I also cannot get the osd button to work to try any adjustments to the monitor and I have left the h/v trace in tact on the amplifier. Apparently you need to cut it when using a ducksan, dunno what it actually does???

[Dann36]

This is an issue with the ground or sync, somewhere along the line you have not connected either sync or ground correctly or the amp your using is not passing it.. You will not be able to use any buttons on the chassis  without having a video sync input to the chassis ..ie a picture..

You should try removing the amp from the equation and connect directly to make sure your wiring is good..

Really the amp is not necessary and is only used to compensate for a poorly adjusted chassis of which the original wells and ducksan are, due to the lower signal from the PC. Adjusting the RGB drives and bias's usually on the neck board will get you the same result as fitting the amp would do on the original chassis..

[pinball god]

Thank you Dan, I was afraid you might say something about sync. I have only connected horiz sync as a guide I read for the amplifier install by a user said didn't bother with the vert sync and all was good. Stipid me should have made a provision for a wire on pin 9 for vert sync on the connector but didn't. Could this be a good place to start?

Now I'm figuring I need to unplug it from the crt and add a wire. Should I discharge the monitor prior to attempting the remove the molex connector? I'm worried its going to be tough to remove and I may hit the crt neck and crack it. Is there a correct way of taking off a molex plug as I always struggle to remove them from my pinball pcb's. They have a triangular catch near the pins.  Thanks

[Dann36]

It really looks like you have no sync at all getting to the monitor ( horizontal or vertical), the pinouts you describe are correct for the new chassis you have as long as you have them connected that way and havent made an error.. You can try adding the vertical sync but it really should not be needed unless this chassis has an issue with some composite sync signals. If you do try the vertical sync you should cut the trace on your amp board so they become separate.. Also some chassis have a sync select switch on them, im not sure about the chassis you have but see if there is one on the chassis..

Can you take a picture of your connections ( video) both ends from amp to chassis? And you did confirm the 5volts you connected is there and correct?

No need to discharge the monitor, the part your working on is isolated from the High Voltage, the only time you need to discharge is when your removing the chassis completely from the tube..

If you still have it you should use the old video lead from the original chassis, do not use the AMP, make all the connections and see what you get..
Just slowly wiggle the connector back and forth or use a flat screwdriver to pry it if your having trouble..

[pinball god]

Thanks Dann36 for taking an interest in my dilemma. I have attached a couple of shots of the homemade cabling. Btw I just buzzed for continuity from the chassis pins to the amplifier connections and all good. Also buzzed the frame to ground on the chassis connector and to a earth braid and all good. Tested 5vdc and get about 4.9vdc. Finally the 5vdc wire seems ok as I did remove it from the amplifier and got no graphics at all.

Hope this can help with a possible solution. The crt does have a sync jumper but I can't see its location easily or its setting. Thanks again

[pinball god]

I forgot to address one of your questions. The crt I replaced was a ducksan so dunno if the original cable would work with the wg???

[Dann36]

Gday mate'

The cable should be fine, you just might have to re-pin the chassis end. I would try this as all your saying is pointing to the Vid amp..

Can you measure the voltage on the H sync line, measure on the input to the amp and the output to the chassis, Pin 13 of the vga connector is H-Sync.

Also if you have any old video games ( 15K games) or a 60 in one board or similar set to 15K, you could connect them up to the chassis to double check your leads and confirm your chassis is good..

[pinball god]

What kind of voltage am I looking for? Amount and type ? Thanks Dan