The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Sinbad79 on June 14, 2014, 09:57:05 PM
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Hi all
thought id document my process of repairing my warped & dented coin door from my 'terd' of a galaxy, which i have decided to 'polish', lol
The coin door was painted black at some point in its life, possibly to hide how bad the coin door had been damaged.
This is the process i have followed to date to repair it.
Firstly remove the door and frame from cabinet, strip the door down to just the skin and rear webbing. Paint strip using your favourite paint stripper, i use a citrus stripper, and assess the damage.
Edit : change title.
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What a piece of crap ;)
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Once paint was stripped, i placed a straight edge across the door face to see how badly damaged and the extent of repairs needed. Though you cant see it from the photos, the door had both low and high spots, which couldnt be reached from the back side due to the door frame/webbing.
I also noticed surface rust on the underside, so i decided to drill out the spot welds and separate the webbing from the door skin and address the rust issue...
Bit extreme, but needed to be done. Its either do this, or throw away and replace.
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From here, door skin will be sent out for straightening the 'ol fashioned way, and the webbing re-spot welded.
Drilling out the factory spot welds has meant the skin has a bunch of holes drilled in it, but that will be addressed later....
More to come in the next few days, however in the meantime, sand, prime, paint the many rear coin door parts
Before priming, use wax and grease remover on all parts, and use an etch primer when priming bare metal.
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Great work. Good to see some panel work going on.
Simon
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I've done quite a few Classic Sterns and there is a White Knight product which is an exact match - It is the Hammer finish you can buy from Bunnings.
Here is a link to one of the threads - http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=1256.30 (http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=1256.30)
The before and after pictures ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Galaxy%20530.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20048.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/Galaxy/Picture%20028.jpg)
You can use this paint for the legs as well.
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All over it already Nino, thanks. The photos in my third post are parts already painted.
Any idea where i can get the credit button and stern door decals locally?
Other than marcos or pbr.... cant seem to find them
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That's the same paint I use for all my internally rusted part restores
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All over it already Nino, thanks. The photos in my third post are parts already painted.
Any idea where i can get the credit button and stern door decals locally?
Other than marcos or pbr.... cant seem to find them
^^^
Credit button is here - http://www.pinballrescue.net/Decals_Coin_Door.html (http://www.pinballrescue.net/Decals_Coin_Door.html)
PBR and Marco might be the only place to buy the logo decal.
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I knew that was going to be the case....wish these parts were available locally.
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i give you a 10/10 for dedication as dan said what a piece of crap.so YOU can polish TURDS.lol
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hang on thats nino's door.nino can polish turds.lol;
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So after a week or so, got the cabinet door back from the 'panel guy' who flattened and rewelded the door.
It is worth noting that there is a tendency for metal to re-warp during the welding of the webbing to the skin which is what happened here, so be warned.
After some spray putty, the door has been sanded flat, primed and painted.
Assembly as per the following images. This process has been by far the most work, i concur with Ninos comments that the coin door is the hardest part of a restoration, but definitely worth the work.
Only thing left from here is to have the front metal shroud and coin return flap re-chromed and stick it all back into the caninet.
Enjoy
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more pics
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Swinks has remade the coin insert plastics , pictured below, They really look the part. Nice job on the door btw
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Nice work ! Chroming the coin entry plate will really finish the door off nicely.
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Swinks has remade the coin insert plastics , pictured below, They really look the part. Nice job on the door btw
Good to know, think i've seen some listed on eGay but i'll shoot him a mseeage here.
Also, does anyone happen to have the credit button and stern decals for these doors? If not its off to Marco's..
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Also, does anyone happen to have the credit button and stern decals for these doors? If not its off to Marco's..
Credit button is here - http://www.pinballrescue.net/Decals_Coin_Door.html (http://www.pinballrescue.net/Decals_Coin_Door.html)
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Coin insert plastics. I messed up and posted same pic twice, here goes again with a few extra shots of "Swinks's Work"
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Perfect, how can i grab a set from you? Price etc...
Thanks
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Contact Swinks about the plastic coin inserts . Cost around $10 each, but they look good and are 3-D printed.
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More progress today.
Rear side of door rebuilt and a new shiny stainless coin eject button.....yummm
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/13/ytajehe9.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/13/6a6y3yde.jpg)
All that remains is the chroming but I've run out of time for now...Off to Europe in a week!
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beautiful work on the door and thanks for the nice words Ralph
just let me know if you need any coin plates, happy to help you out
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Swinks, i'll hit you up for a pair after my return in a month, so set some aside please.
Thanks!
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no worries, can always make more anyway
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And so after an averseas holiday and waiting for the chrome shop to finish the last pieces, here it is, all finished.
Legs refurbished with new feet and rubbers too.
It's come up real nice for a terd!
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/04/654d20bba444ccff126c4727aa1cebfc.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/04/047fa77e33f39f651ac522e580add005.jpg)
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Very nice !
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reverse phsycology works then,well done.
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LOL
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Well, frustrated at the condition and look for the cabinet next to the freshly refurbished coin door and legs and inspired by this restoration by Mitch http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=5851.15 guess what i'll be doing this long weekend.....
Stay tuned for lots of mishaps while i tackle my very first pinball cabinet restoration!
It's going to be a long week at work while i contemplate the project!
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Has anyone had any experience with this stuff for DIY stencils?
(Fuji Xerox) White Bond Paper $10
http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/fuji-xerox-white-bond-paper-610mm-x-50mm-x-50m-4-pack-fxbond4pk
and
(Fuji Xerox) Tracing Paper $50
http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/xerox-tracing-paper-roll-xewftp150m?cm_vc=cross-sell
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Not much progress really but tonight I traced the LHS backbox artwork.. Will continue tomorrow night once I get my hands on some cardboard...
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/29/c882289e62fec34705ddf608af6dc41b.jpg)
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A low tack adhesive specifically for stencils....
http://www.rustoleumaerosols.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=523&osCsid=98js7jhbpj5bgvv94je4o8cpg0
Has anyone had any experience with this stuff - looks to be real handy for home made stencils
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and for anyone reading...
Local craft shop suggested i use polypropylene sheets for the stencils...
http://www.eckersleys.com.au/products/polypropylene-sheets
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Alright so progress tonight.
Yellow stencil for backbox is complete. The process I took was to sandwich the tracing paper with the traced image in between two pieces of polypropylene. Then with a Sharp hobby knife, score the image on both the top side and bottom side son as to get two identical stencils....LHS & RHS.
Then pull it apart and finish off the cuts.
Here is the yellow stencil.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/01/d92023abb36e2ee895c3583850b63b8c.jpg)
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This stencil can in fact be used for both LHS & RHS in this instance.
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Finished stencils - both red and yellow
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/01/3f2bbd058a82d46a2b23a6940f380736.jpg)
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And so after an averseas holiday and waiting for the chrome shop to finish the last pieces, here it is, all finished.
Legs refurbished with new feet and rubbers too.
It's come up real nice for a terd! What is the blue button for? Bog that up! when you repaint her, I would also use the correct leg bolts if you have them. looks nice
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/04/654d20bba444ccff126c4727aa1cebfc.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/04/047fa77e33f39f651ac522e580add005.jpg)
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It's a credit button some genious decided would be a good idea, will definitely get patched up.
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Theres no turning back now, was always in two minds about selling or restoring this game and after trying to sell it unsuccessfully (Gtree and ePay) have decided to strip it and restore the cabinet and keep it, especially since a new backglass is on order from BGResto.
One thing i did notice - which i never knew before, is that Stern actually used hardwood in these cabs - impressive!
This cabinet is in particularly good condition structurally, so should make for a rather straight forward resto.
Pulled and stripped the backbox last night and began sanding. Not much progress yet, more to come tonight...
(some teaser pics)
Note to Moderators: Can you please re-title the topic of this thread to Stern Galaxy Restoration - Thx
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the front part on my galaxy headbox is painted black.not sure whats original.get up the resto,mate
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Backbox stripped, puttied and sanded, ready for a high build 2 pack primer.
Pics attached.
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Looking good Evan
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yes my "Galaxy" is black on the front , My one is Aussie built LAI, Black inside and out and the Aussie one's Artwork seem to be Silkscreened whereas the US made were stencilled, IE you can see underspray The Aussie made pins are a really smooth finish, The Black looks almost full gloss but not 100% sure
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Thanks Ralph, mine is the same as you describe, black inside and you can see the layers of paint where the red was layered ove the yellow.
What I am debating at the moment is whether I remove the ground plate and spray the inside as well... Thoughts?
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backbox primed and ready for sanding...
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i am jealous of you perseverence,keep up the good work ^^^
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i am jealous of you perseverence,keep up the good work ^^^
Thanks Damien, it helps when you enjoy doing it.
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More progress today, spent the weekend blocking back the primer and today was paint day...
Colour is an off the shelf DuPont black acrylic, mixed with thinners at 2.5/1 ratio and sprayed at 25psi initially to help lay thin dust coats.
Air Pressure was slowly reduced back to 15-18psi to help lay a few heavy and wet final coats.
The backbox will next be blocked back with 800 and then 1200 before the colour coats are sprayed.
Enjoy.
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looking good mate,do you want to tackle my 3 cabs?
!@) for asking
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Maybe, which cabs are these?
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playboy,funfeast,lazercue
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looking good mate,do you want to tackle my 3 cabs?
!@) for asking
you have my number, ring me,evan ^^^
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I have the stencils
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I'll buzz you once I finish the galaxy, unless you have something else in mind or need something sooner...
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Thanks for the detailed description of your process. A lot of times you see things but don't know how to duplicate it yourself, mix ratios, psi levels etc. The job looks great so far and look forward to more.
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Thanks for the detailed de******ion of your process. A lot of times you see things but don't know how to duplicate it yourself, mix ratios, psi levels etc. The job looks great so far and look forward to more.
You're welcome, plenty more info to come.
Gave the backside about 5 coats tonight and also 're sprayed any corners or joins that hadn't quite come up as planned (generally mdf corners).
Will wait a few days for it to cure and will start with the rubbing back.
Rubbing back will be done with a sanding block - never use fingers if you want to avoid scratches - with 800grit and 1200grit wet rub.
Tip: add a few drops of dishwashing detergent into water to help with the wet sanding and to help with paper clogging up.
More to come this weekend when I spray the yellow...
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It's looking great Evan, well worth the effort your putting in there. You'll have a beautiful game when your done. ^^^
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Heres a (shitty) pic of the rear...this reflection (gloss) is straight off the gun and will improve once it is blocked flat then cut/polished once all colours have been sprayed.
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looking good Evan
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looking good Evan
Thanks Chris
Here is a good article on the sanding process - Overkill for a pinball cabinet, but the theory is the same
http://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restoration/restoration-tips/true-grit-sanding-to-perfect-paint
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Started on the sanding this week, i found that i had to start with 400grit wet rub to effectively flatten the paint. Its been a fair amount of work trying to remove scratches by using 800, 1200 and 1500grit to effectively remove most sanding scratches.
Final step in the paint prep was to apply cutting compound with the buffer....here is a sample of the results so far.
I'll try get to apply yellow paint this weekend, more to come.
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Got to painting the yellow today, by "dusting" on some very light coats (as shown in images) over a template i made by tracing the artwork.
This is what the early stages look like
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More...
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All the way using light coats at about 40psi to minimise orange peel
Tomorrow i will spray the opposite side and let sit for several days before i sand it back and spray the red.
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Short of a good cut and polish, backbox is done.
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Looking good! #*#
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Looking great !
I've changed the title of the thread as it was requested and also because it is a restoration and we want members to see it as such rather than straightening a door ^^^
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Thanks Lads, should've renamed it to "restoring the turd"....LOL
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Looks sweet so far Evan ^^^ ^^^
Cant wait to see the finished product!!
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Thanks Lads, should've renamed it to "restoring the turd"....LOL
you have come a long way Evan +1 ^^^
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Guys, given our back glass order is probably not too far away, can annyone point me to where I can get a hold of the correct bottom lift channel and the , top and the two white side guides as well?
Thanks
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Guys, given our back glass order is probably not too far away, can annyone point me to where I can get a hold of the correct bottom lift channel and the , top and the two white side guides as well?
Thanks
Anyone?
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White channels don't seem to be available. IF they are intact they can be cleaned fairly nicely with soapy steelo wool pads.
Marco's have the lift rail: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/P-6242-107
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White channels don't seem to be available. IF they are intact they can be cleaned fairly nicely with soapy steelo wool pads.
Marco's have the lift rail: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/P-6242-107
Are these substitutes for the side white channels and top rail?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/M-1889-1-2
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White channels don't seem to be available. IF they are intact they can be cleaned fairly nicely with soapy steelo wool pads.
Marco's have the lift rail: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/P-6242-107
Are these substitutes for the side white channels and top rail?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/M-1889-1-2
I don't think so, those ones are to suit 1/8" glasses, normally the older backglasses are thicker up to 6mm.
Galaxy may be 4-5mm???
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They should fit, but they are black...
There is no rail on the top of Sterns as they have the metal bracket that forms part of the locking arrangement.
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Thanks Guys
Not much progress lately given my condition, but i did manage to respray the display board, give the black shrouds and displays a clean and put it all back together...
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Why rush? looks very good, would like to be as good as you in painting cabs.
I think I am more of a destructor not constructor or decorator *%*
Whats your condition Dude? hope it is not too bad for you, as longs as you can still pinball it up!
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I was one of the rare and fortunate, fit, healthy, active young 39yr old guys to have a cardiac arrest at the gym and live to tell the story....
Dont smoke, dont drink, dont do drugs, have excellent diet etc.... just cant help bad Genes.
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I was one of the rare and fortunate, fit, healthy, active young 39yr old guys to have a cardiac arrest at the gym and live to tell the story....
Dont smoke, dont drink, dont do drugs, have excellent diet etc.... just cant help bad Genes.
Thats a bummer, my Big Bro just had one for his 50th and the same as you, very lucky to still be here.
All the best
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After what seems to be an eternity, i've had the side cabinet stencils vectorised, and printed onto a vinyl/transfer paper combo. Attached is the image of a test piece but it gives you the idea of whats to come.
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I was one of the rare and fortunate, fit, healthy, active young 39yr old guys to have a cardiac arrest at the gym and live to tell the story....
Dont smoke, dont drink, dont do drugs, have excellent diet etc.... just cant help bad Genes.
Very unfortunate, I'm glad to hear you pulled through Evan. Not a nice experience all the same.
Great work so far on the resto, you're really going all out on this game, it's going to be a very special one when your done.
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Yea thanks guys, no not pleasant at all and very fortunate that i can still post stupid questions here... <.>
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Slowly getting more active and today spent the morning stripping the cabinet.
Wiring is a pain in the ass, Stern should've used a connector in the loom to allow easy removal of the playfield...
Should have the cabinet in primer before weekend, with first coats of black sprayed over the weekend.
Pics attached...
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We all know what a sanded cabinet looks like i guess, regardless, here are a few photos of todays progress...ready for putty and final sanding.
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Spent the day today preparing the cabinet for primer, paying particular attention to the following
1. Puttying cab to ensure its as flat as possible.
2. Filled the hole in front panel which was used as a credit button (non factory addition). Achieved this by cutting a 28mm circle piece on the cnc machine and glued it in. Let it set then bog to get it flat.
3. Fill the side rail screw holes with a skewer stick and glue
4. Sprayed primer - a high build spray putty to fill any imperfections, i want this cabinet to be straight as possible.
Cab will be sanded, and any final touchups made with a final prime if needed.
Pics attached, comments welcome.
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Primer mixed as a hi build primer, 2parts primer to 1part thinner, sprayed with a 2mm nozel.
Results as follows
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Looking good - Great to hear you are feeling better ^^^
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Love the detailed description. Its like watching a cooking show. Those thinking of having a go have most of those fiddly questions answered. Nothing worse than knowing a surface needs to be flat but how to achieve it is found here. Great work and thanks.
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Thanks,
I'll try be as detailed as needed and hope i dont give away too many 'trade' secrets along the way.
If you have any questions, ask away.
A note on the stencils, they were made by tracing the artwork onto tracing paper, then having office works scan in the image as a digital file.
File was then vectorised in illustrator and sent to a printer.
Still more work to do, but can start to see the end now.
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Spent an hour or so this morning puttying and sanding the areas i missed last time, then sprayed the cabinet.
I am a little annoyed that the grain in the plywood is visible through the paint, so i have decided to block back the paint, and then give it another couple coats to fix it. Will need to let the paint cure over a good couple days before im ready to respray.
Pics attached.
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And...
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Sometimes you have to "bite the bullet" and primer undercoat the cabinet to see if there are any imperfections like the grain, knots or delaminating. Looking at a bare wood cabinet does not always tell you enough about your repairs. It is like a new perspective once primed. Black will not hide the problems - so it is good that you addressed everything as soon as you noticed it.
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Yea that's right Nino, and further to that, while sometimes these things are visible under primer, its still difficult to tell if it will show through.
I think the problem here was the quality of the primer used.
I'll fix it, it just means more work.
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Wanted to show you guys what a 'flat' paint job actually means. Sanding paint 'flat' is where all high spots and low spots in the paint or panel have been sanded even. The images below are during sanding, the high spots appear dull and uniform, whereas the low spots are untouched by the dander and hence are still glossy.
This is the process used to remove the visible grain in the wood, and given I've had to sand through in places, I'll be spraying another coat or two over these panels and repeating the sand process, but with 1200g and upwards. I've used a 400g through this process.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/04/a11a9a7605e46cbb002c0bd9cddf0b1b.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/04/84e4c0543f167ecc9f98d98fafe126c7.jpg)
This one side has taken me about an hour to do, so yep, it's a great deal of work, and if restorers are going to this length to restore a cabinet, you can understand why they charge whatever they do.