The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Technical Matters => Pinball Repairs / Problems & Assistance => Topic started by: morgo on January 26, 2015, 09:24:41 PM
-
Gave my lost world a bit of a new year birthday today ,
changed a few bulbs and gave some a clean to get them going.
put a rebuild kit thru the flippers , cleaned and adjusted switches on flipper buttons, bumpers and rollovers.cleaned kicker solenoid sleeves,
had the playfield in a couple of different positions during all this but was supported in some way at all times.
gave PF a polish then went to powerup
no solenoid at all.
self test and knocker is only one that fired - its on a different circuit by the looks. I have looked over for a loose/broken wire or something I have bumped during the day . Have checked fuses visually and continuity test.OK .
my gut tells me theres something I`ve done wrong with the flippers , but cant see anything.
any pointers on where to look or test to nut this out.?? generally don't have any issues with this pin apart from weak flippers-hence the kit.
thanks.
-
Hey mate have you checked the fuse mounted under the Playfield?
-
Hey mate have you checked the fuse mounted under the Playfield?
+1 sounds like fuse on the underside of the Playfield. From memory it should be a 1 amp slow blow. Best to check your manual though.
-
+1 my money is on it. Same thing happened to me on my spacies. Didn't know there was such a fuse until I got this era game. If blows a second time, you will need to check everything that could get shorted. Mine was a globe holder.
-
fuse is OK , so went looking deeper.
found open circuit across one of the kicker solenoids. one of the ones I cleaned- so may have damaged something during this process- ran out of time last night - so will dig a little deeper tonight.
I knew cleaning was over-rated <.>
-
fuse holder under playfield, needs a good file and re-tinning
-
so far ive done the following.
rechecked all my work - soldering ok, nothing touching where it shouldn't
checked all fuses,-removed cleaned up faces with emery, check for continuity out of holder and once back in holder. BTW the wire in the solenoid driver board has the thinnest wire I`ve ever seen.
cleaned up fuse holders with emery
found a couple of broken wires on resistors of the bumpers - resoldered.
tilt switch underplayfield-broken wire - resoldered
still no action on any solenoid on the playfield.
live testing- don't seem to have any power on solenoid circuit in playfield.
where can I test PF power in board or transformer - the prints I have are so small theyre unreadable ^&^
I`m starting to think PF is ok but driver board or connectors are problem. strange that knocker solenoid works though.
getting very frustrated with my lack of ability. this is an exercise in maintaining patience
any help welcome.
-
Power Transformer Module (Rectifier board):
TP1 = +5.4 (AS2518-18 version, feature lamps)
TP1 = +6.5 vdc (AS2518-49 & -54 versions, feature lamps)
TP2 = +230 vdc (score displays)
TP3 = +11.9 vdc (+5 regulated)
TP4 = 7.3 vac (general illumination)
TP5 = +43 vdc (solenoid voltage)
GND = Ground
-
thanks,
all those readings check out ok.
next step is to pull board and look for dud connections/solder
-
Have you got another SD board (from another machine) to swap into this game ?
-
my only other pin is a Williams phoenix.
-
I will have a look in the circuits I have when I get home.
From memory working on my paragon the knocker sol is powered from a different spot.
-
Do you have the 43 volts at the fuse under the playfield?
Do you have the 43 volts on plug J1 pin 6 of the transformer c/ board?
Pin 6 should be a brown wire that feeds the under playfield fuse.
-
no power at either of these points.
no power at red or blue on same plug- pin 7 & pin 8 - looking at print this should be flipper power.
edit-got that wrong about flippers
-
Sounds like a dry joint on the power supply board. TP5 should read 43VDC. If J1 Pin 6 reads zero volts, then either there is dry joint or broken trace from TP5 to J1 Pin 6.
To have 43VDC at the Test point and not J1 Pin 6 is strange.
-
OK
TP5 has 42.7v
J1 pin 6 =zero
J2 pin 2 = 42.5v
J3 pin 13 = 42.5 v
these other 2 pins are on the same line so its probably the J1 pin 6 that is issue.
noted some burn marks on plug to J1 but only pin 1 , pin 8
-
looked at back of power board
see pics
pin6 seems to go nowhere -is something burnt off ?
-
Is there a wire in the plug of J1 P6 ?
-
yep - brown wire as you mentioned earlier.
looking at back of board I don't know how it was getting power previously - unless a bridge wire of some sort has broken off but nothing was around. other parts of the 43v circuit can be traced and tested ok for continuity, but not this pin.
the rest of the board has lots of repairs.
thinking about getting it refurbed.
-
Victory $#$
resoldered pad at back of pin - back in business
longer term I will look at refurb of board-a lot of bit repairs over the years - bit ugly.
thank you to all that gave advice to get me back on the road.
next problem is a pop bumper that self activates - but not all the time. - what should I be looking for here?
-
Contacts too close on the pop bumper. Check under playfield and adjust gap. Sounds like vibration is causing contacts to join and randomly activate the pop bumper.
-
Contacts too close on the pop bumper. Check under playfield and adjust gap. Sounds like vibration is causing contacts to join and randomly activate the pop bumper.
+1
Easy test is to thump the playfield with your fist in the vicinity. Most likely the vibration from an adjacent pop bumper.
could also be the switch matrix capacitor across the switch causing the pop bumper to activate. Easy test is to snip one side of the switch capacitor (mounted on the switch). If the problem goes away - it is a faulty capacitor.
-
Contacts too close on the pop bumper. Check under playfield and adjust gap. Sounds like vibration is causing contacts to join and randomly activate the pop bumper.
+1
Easy test is to thump the playfield with your fist in the vicinity. Most likely the vibration from an adjacent pop bumper.
could also be the switch matrix capacitor across the switch causing the pop bumper to activate. Easy test is to snip one side of the switch capacitor (mounted on the switch). If the problem goes away - it is a faulty capacitor.
+1 to all of the above
Great news you found the solution to your initial problem
-
pretty sure its dud caps. these were already cut one side and I resoldered them earlier .previous owner must have had problems.
can these caps be bought at jaycar ? or should I buy specific pinball spares, say from RTBB.
-
Can get at jaycar
-
good-o
fast becoming my favourite store