The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: pinball god on February 10, 2009, 09:54:40 PM
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Haven't played or really had a good look at my T2 for 12 months or so until yesterday.
I've been thinking of getting really into some hard core resto stuff with maybe an old clunker or something. Well while carefully looking at my T2 and I have noticed the mylar is lifting, bubbling throughout the playfield. Hmmmm do I try it on the T2 me thinks??
Anyway, what is diamond coating? Is it like clear coating and the mylar I'm seeing is put on after by an operator? Will removing the mylar damage the playfield seeing there is no wear at all at present? If the mylar is something other than the diamond coating, will the insert lettering lift off with the mylar (re MartyJ)? If I go ahead, which is best, the hot or cold or goo gone method? I'd hate to get into it and disappoint myself with poor workmanship etc
Need your thoughts before tackling the project. The machine is pretty nice but the mylar is definitely shot IMO with some dirty edging, and various areas of lifting. Where the mylar seems to be is in areas where little dismantling is required IMO.
I also do not intend clear coating once removed as I don't think it'll get played that much to warrant the time and expense.
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BTW will any photos help in formulating your opinions?
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Howdee,
AFAIK diamond coat is a clear coat.
I'm interested that yours also has had mylar put down. In theory, your insert decals should have been screen printed on under the clear. Certainly mylar removal (which has gone down over clear) should be a lot easier as long as its done correctly.
If its an aftermarket decal kit, then there is a risk that they may come up. Having said that, when I removed the mylar after my 1st decal kit, only 2 lifted.
If you can remove the mylar with the diamond coat in tact, the playfield should come up like new!
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My exact thoughts, the playfield should be MINT if no stuff ups occur. The decals are original so if what you're saying is right, they should be fine???
When you said "if done correctly", what do you mean? Is there a right way and by the sounds of it a wrong way which no doubt will send tears to my eyes. I know if I don't ask I'll 100% do it the wrong way
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My exact thoughts, the playfield should be MINT if no stuff ups occur. The decals are original so if what you're saying is right, they should be fine???
When you said "if done correctly", what do you mean? Is there a right way and by the sounds of it a wrong way which no doubt will send tears to my eyes. I know if I don't ask I'll 100% do it the wrong way
Nino or one of the other guys should be a able to confirm this if I'm right..
Either way, mylar removal should be done very slowly and carefully, either by the freeze method or heat gun. I've only done it with the heat gun and had no major problems, although I wont do either on my Police Force for fear of removing decals. But also I'm not doing it as it doesn't need it.
Post a couple of pics to help. Is it full pf mylar or only around pop bumpers and slings?
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I missed this thread totally !@#
Diamond coat is just another word for clearcoat. It is supposed to be the most durable CC.
Most Bally/WMS games also have Mylar in high traffic areas - Like TAF has some around the scoops, Fishtales around the ball drop areas. This can be removed using several methods. The Hair Dryer method should be ok for mylar on Diamond Coat.
Just try a test spot first. Insert lettering lifting is a risk and there's no guarantee that it will work. MartyJ has done this and also applied some new insert decals to great effect.
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I missed this thread totally !@#
Diamond coat is just another word for clearcoat. It is supposed to be the most durable CC.
Most Bally/WMS games also have Mylar in high traffic areas - Like TAF has some around the scoops, Fishtales around the ball drop areas. This can be removed using several methods. The Hair Dryer method should be ok for mylar on Diamond Coat.
Just try a test spot first. Insert lettering lifting is a risk and there's no guarantee that it will work. MartyJ has done this and also applied some new insert decals to great effect.
I should have some spare decals left over (not all, but some) if you need them.
I'm still interested that they put mylar on it. I've read about the prototype playfields which I don't think had diamond coat.
From having done it a few times now ^%^ I can definately recommend building yourself a 'Nino' playfield stand. Removing the playfield will take only a few minues (label backboard plugs etc) and would be the best way to do it without question.
I bought a Bosch heat gun (fully adjustable) and shellite, a rag, spare time.
I should have a bit more to progress on mine after Sunday.
Good luck.
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Without wanting to railroad this thread (i was just about to post a very similar one!) i think i'm in much the same boat with my Jurassic Park. From what i understand Data East used very similar stuff to Diamond Coat, but with another trade name - please correct me if i'm wrong. It looks to me as though there is the mylar around the slingshots (see pic) and then pretty much on top of that over the whole playfield (some pics of joins). So it sounds as though it shouldn't be too difficult (with some care and patience) for me to also remove the mylar and give everything a good Novus 2 and wax and i should get some shine happening on the playfield?
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Rob - I think that mylar / contact would "peel" off easy. Try a test spot first.
You should have factory mylar "squares" near the scoops, and the "control room" scoop as well as the slings.
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When I get around to it I am probably going to remove the mylar from the Mousin' Around! as it has some bubbling.
Think I will get one of you guys over for a look first, though.
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Thanks for the suggestions. I just tried to take some photos but they're not really showing anything. Looking very closely at my mylar, I actually have mylar upon mylar.
It looks like I have specific area coverage ie. middle, bottom sections and the a full contoured piece that covers these pieces from the flipper area all the way to the skull. I these have sling mylar over this major piece. I also have single layers around the pop bumper area - not circles but contoured ones that cover the playfield minus the areas directly around the pop bumpers.
Anyone know if this is factory or operator or maybe both?
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When I get around to it I am probably going to remove the mylar from the Mousin' Around! as it has some bubbling.
Think I will get one of you guys over for a look first, though.
Sounds like a good idea, I'm thinking similar. My big issue is whether I'm being too picky and most people would live with it. But then I have been really ichin' to try some solid resto stuff coz I know it would be very satisfying if it works a treat.
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I guess when it comes to mylar removal, you need to make a decision of whether its cosmetic vs playability and do a risk assessment.
For me, with my T2 it was affecting game play and being diamond coated there is a level of protection from lifting paint / decals. PinballGod, hopefully yours was put down by a keen operator to redue wear. The first lot I took off, I did very carefully with a hair dryer (heat gun bought since). A LOT of glue residue was left, but I did it very carefully and slowly.
The second lot of mylar (which I installed) - newer vinyl, came off extremely easy and left virtually no glue (was a lot thinner than previous stuff).
My Police Force - overall the mylar is not too bad, although some minor bubbles over inserts. I've read about using a syringe to inject clear into it, then flatten. If I can test this method on a dead playfield with mylar I'll give it a shot. I've read too many horror stories about mylar removal on late 80's Williams machines (ie F14, Police Force, Taxi etc). Also, I don't believe a decal set is available either.
I can point you in the right direction for insert decals. I've had bad ones and good ones (latest certainly the best I've had).
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When I get around to it I am probably going to remove the mylar from the Mousin' Around! as it has some bubbling.
Think I will get one of you guys over for a look first, though.
Sounds like a good idea, I'm thinking similar. My big issue is whether I'm being too picky and most people would live with it. But then I have been really ichin' to try some solid resto stuff coz I know it would be very satisfying if it works a treat.
I reckon it would be best to start with a project pin - the experimentation won't hurt as much if you only paid $200 or so - but it's not so easy to find one at that price.
I think I will keep looking, though.
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RobM,
Have you looked at the Treasure Cove kits for polishing? I would be interested from anyone who's used one. They seem to get fantastic results with those on mylar!
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Marty,
I have seen them, but can't really justify $120 or so by the time it gets over from the states (i can't find any local distributors).
I have an old Flash that i was going to experiment on, and then move to the JP.
Today in autobarn when i was getting the carnuba wax i saw a polishing attachment for a drill that was a 3-4" sphere made of red bits of foam - apparently they're meant to be really good but at $66 they would want to be!
I know almost nothing about polishing/waxing/buffing and someone feel free to correct me, but is it the rotational speed of the buffing pad that helps the end result a lot? If so, a lot of these products could be made at home for next to nothing by going to Clark Rubber or a foam shop and buying some off cuts and cutting them to attach to a disc that is on the end of a high speed drill..... The reason i say this is i saw on the treasure cove product page that you need a high speed drill to get the best shine.
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I dunno about power tools on a playfield. This has been mentioned before. I just can't bring myself to do it.
When you use your hands, you can "feel" the playfield and what's going on underneath.
Mylar removal is a "case by case" decision. I've sweated over a few and even had a few coldies beforehand to muster the courage !
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I dunno about power tools on a playfield. This has been mentioned before. I just can't bring myself to do it.
When you use your hands, you can "feel" the playfield and what's going on underneath.
Mylar removal is a "case by case" decision. I've sweated over a few and even had a few coldies beforehand to muster the courage !
I KNEW someone would make the power tools comment! It does just seem risky, doesn't it.
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I guess when it comes to mylar removal, you need to make a decision of whether its cosmetic vs playability and do a risk assessment.
For me, with my T2 it was affecting game play and being diamond coated there is a level of protection from lifting paint / decals. PinballGod, hopefully yours was put down by a keen operator to redue wear. The first lot I took off, I did very carefully with a hair dryer (heat gun bought since). A LOT of glue residue was left, but I did it very carefully and slowly.
The second lot of mylar (which I installed) - newer vinyl, came off extremely easy and left virtually no glue (was a lot thinner than previous stuff).
My Police Force - overall the mylar is not too bad, although some minor bubbles over inserts. I've read about using a syringe to inject clear into it, then flatten. If I can test this method on a dead playfield with mylar I'll give it a shot. I've read too many horror stories about mylar removal on late 80's Williams machines (ie F14, Police Force, Taxi etc). Also, I don't believe a decal set is available either.
I can point you in the right direction for insert decals. I've had bad ones and good ones (latest certainly the best I've had).
thanks Marty may take you up on the offer