The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Technical Matters => Pinball Training 101 => Topic started by: pinball god on June 08, 2009, 09:09:22 PM
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I read this recently somewhere and thought I'd try this. Instead of buying the coloured #555's, #44's etc which are a touch pricey for what they are, I read that you can dip these in glass paint. The more dips the darker the effect and I suppose you can get a wider range of colours.
Anyone tried this?
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Yes mate i have and come up just as good...
I think the glass paint was about $5 for a 250 ml container... can do heaps with that amount...
The magenta/purple coloured globes are the ones that i dipped into the glass paint...
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Yeah read that too,some clown posted it up on AA ,works a treat
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Is that where I read it. Nice tip Ratbag.
Pinfan, your machine looks amazing. Where do you by this paint and what brand. I want to try doing a complete machine with coloured globes. If it looks shit it doesn't matter as the cost doesn't seem too high for the fun in trying. Thanks
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Its called 'VITRAIL' and comes in all sorts of colours..The Jar is square with a twist top...
Its not 250 ml its actually 50ml.... @.@
But i have done over 25 globes with it and it has barely lost any ink from the jar.
You can purchase glass paint at any arts and crafts store, you could even try Spotlight....
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Thanks mate I think there's a riot art store near me. I suppose they'll sell it
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Some of the specialist globe-suppliers carry a product called "Globe Dip", also known as "Colour Dip", or simply "Dip".
I find the suppliers of globes for "lighting/entertainment industries" have the dip, whereas your typical decorative lighting store won't carry it.
I'm sure a bunch of Art & craft places would carry something very silimar, as there's so many glass-craft things out there.
MM.
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Thanks mate I think there's a riot art store near me. I suppose they'll sell it
HA HA HA thats where i bought it from !
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LOl- i just use normal spray can enamel - have been for years. I normally use the painted globes behind the BG where the paint has thinned and a white globe pierces through, makes the world of difference to a flakey BG
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Spray Can enamel??? !@# Can you explain how you do this Gav?
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I just love this site how people think of all these great ideas that can solve some tedious problems that shit me big time and yet can be overcome with simple solutions. Namely the last idea to minimize the translite problem
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Yes mate i have and come up just as good...
I think the glass paint was about $5 for a 250 ml container... can do heaps with that amount...
The magenta/purple coloured globes are the ones that i dipped into the glass paint...
not sure i should say this as I sell the coloured ones
but thats looks great
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Spray Can enamel??? !@# Can you explain how you do this Gav?
Sure mate...
get yourself a piece of scrap cardboard and poke some holes in it with a sharpened pencil ( or get an adult for this bit). Poke the globes through so the glass domes stick out the top and spray the domes the desired colour.
Let this dry - the longer the better, and if you are not too rough with them then the paint doesnt come off when you put them in the machine
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Yes mate i have and come up just as good...
I think the glass paint was about $5 for a 250 ml container... can do heaps with that amount...
The magenta/purple coloured globes are the ones that i dipped into the glass paint...
not sure i should say this as I sell the coloured ones
but thats looks great
Yeah Mark i also have the coloured globes in my games but purple was never an option, so i made it one ! #@#
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Thanks Gav i must try that
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Yes mate i have and come up just as good...
I think the glass paint was about $5 for a 250 ml container... can do heaps with that amount...
The magenta/purple coloured globes are the ones that i dipped into the glass paint...
not sure i should say this as I sell the coloured ones
but thats looks great
Yeah Mark i also have the coloured globes in my games but purple was never an option, so i made it one ! #@#
i am sure I have some purple .... better check .. I have been up since 5 am bloody time change
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had a go today. Vitrail bought from riot art 45ml $8.99
Tried the dip method but can't seem to avoid major buildup near th ebase of the globe seeing can't tap off excess paint. What do any of you guys do to avoid this. I'm now thinking maybe use blotting paper ot something.
Otherwise colours look great and you can mix you're own colours to produce various effects
I'm also considering trying cabinet art colouring using the same paint to freshen up my TZ faded cab art. Will try a small area and see what's the go. If all else fails I planned to get my hands on new decals anyway. I figure any improvement would be great in the meantime. If the test goes well, I'll attempt a full re-paint and post pix.
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had a go today. Vitrail bought from riot art 45ml $8.99
Tried the dip method but can't seem to avoid major buildup near th ebase of the globe seeing can't tap off excess paint. What do any of you guys do to avoid this. I'm now thinking maybe use blotting paper ot something.
Otherwise colours look great and you can mix you're own colours to produce various effects
I'm also considering trying cabinet art colouring using the same paint to freshen up my TZ faded cab art. Will try a small area and see what's the go. If all else fails I planned to get my hands on new decals anyway. I figure any improvement would be great in the meantime. If the test goes well, I'll attempt a full re-paint and post pix.
I found when doing the globes is get some tissue paper and lightly blot the drip on the end about 5 mins after you have dipped it,I use the DALA glass paints and also use it for cab recolours.When using it make sure you have a quality flat style brush and make sure your first coat is even,usually takes about 3 coats to get a good finish.Here's a JD thats a work in progress,the first pic is of the other side as I didnt take one before I started
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Sweet , Nice job with the JD . It just goes to show how much these pins side art can fade. And what a difference you have made to the decals, Top job. ^^^
On a similar subject my first ever pin that I bought, way back in 96 a Black Rose (Top Machine) I was totally unaware that the sides had faded (Newbie and all that) and when I did see another with un-faded side art I was gob smacked. I actually thought that the owner of the pin had coloured it himself. Just shows how different they can look.
Could you let me know the product that you used to create this super transformation. #*#
Cheers Darren.
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Will give some credit their Gibo as it does look good.Did you do the head box as well or was the cabinet the only thing that was faded ^^^
Is this the paint to use for doing play field touch up as well.
Pity there no decals for this machine or is there. !@#
Cheers
Craig
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Its called DALA glass glaze,made in South Africa but seems to be in every hobby shop here
http://www.shadesofbrilliance.com.au/taxonomy_menu/19/45 (http://www.shadesofbrilliance.com.au/taxonomy_menu/19/45)
No didnt do the backbox only the cab and no this stuff will not do playfields you need acrylics for that
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nice one ratbag, I saw this work awhile ago that inspired me to consider doing it myself. Now I have the paint, I'll give it a test run. Thanks for the tip on the brush as I figured any old brush would do. What kind of width brushes did you use and in person are th ebrush strokes quite noticeable or not. Photos can hide a lot of things
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nice job on the JD
mark
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That paint job on the JD looks awesome - Must have taken a few hours ?
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As far as brush strokes being seen if your 30cm away yes you can see them but stand a metre away and no you cant see them but like I said your first coat is the important one if this is not even in colour and you get build up in spots its to hard to keep it consistent with the next coats thats why I found using a flat brush helped this alot ,as far as width for the large areas I use a 10mm wide one and for smaller jobs 2mm one
Havent really worked out hours on this one as I use it for a stress relief when other projects piss me off
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As far as brush strokes being seen if your 30cm away yes you can see them but stand a metre away and no you cant see them but like I said your first coat is the important one if this is not even in colour and you get build up in spots its to hard to keep it consistent with the next coats thats why I found using a flat brush helped this alot ,as far as width for the large areas I use a 10mm wide one and for smaller jobs 2mm one
Havent really worked out hours on this one as I use it for a stress relief when other projects piss me off
Another question if I may? If you make a mistake or are not happy with a section/brush stroke etc, is simply wiping off an option? If so is turps the best bet or just a dry rag?
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As far as brush strokes being seen if your 30cm away yes you can see them but stand a metre away and no you cant see them but like I said your first coat is the important one if this is not even in colour and you get build up in spots its to hard to keep it consistent with the next coats thats why I found using a flat brush helped this alot ,as far as width for the large areas I use a 10mm wide one and for smaller jobs 2mm one
Havent really worked out hours on this one as I use it for a stress relief when other projects piss me off
Another question if I may? If you make a mistake or are not happy with a section/brush stroke etc, is simply wiping off an option? If so is turps the best bet or just a dry rag?
I have found a wet rag is the go as its water based paint