The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: MartyJ on March 22, 2009, 03:10:00 PM
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OK I've had a lazy Sunday and I'm starting a week earlier.
This is the High Speed II: The Getaway I picked up from Child Amusements. Since purchase I've started stocking various bits and pieces I will need for the job. I've had to buy / source some new tools, such as a tumbler and some new saw stands to assist with the job. **I'll just add it was an "as is" pin too, but very nice condition"**
I'm planning to completely strip playfield, clean & polish (diamond plate) and will assess its condition then, but its certainly one of the better ones I've seen. The cab is getting the once over, clean and decals.
In the electronics dept, I've already fixed the MPU (switch matrix issues + batt damage)...The others ie PSU have already been done previously and won't need touching. The DMD is missing the last two lines. I may attempt a repair but will most likely need a new one...but this can be done a little later.
Thus far (where possible) I've done my best to source parts from our wonderful sponsors! #@#
Here are some starting pics:
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Looking forward to seeing your work on this one.
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Looking forward to seeing your work on this one.
Hehe, the pressure is on now...You guys have kicked it up a notch or two....(can't wait to see Nino's next real time resto too!)..
I must say, the later Williams pins is very easy to get playfield out. Took me about 10 min to label and lift out with the help of the lovely.
Backbox off. Will strip remainder of cab, then headbox. Sand and clean and prep. Will then tackle playfield whilst cab is drying.
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Continued....
Cabinet completely stripped, transformer out to be cleaned as best I can, everything else will get the nifty soak or tumbler.
Few thinks to seek opinions/advise on...
Firstly - the Williams blue / white paper stuck on the inside r/h/s near power box. Best way to remove / save these? I thought they normally have a country on them if they are export? This one doesn't so its either a US release or AUS???? Anyway I would like to keep it so not sure best method.
Slide rails / lugs....I had issues with this one not working properly on the l/h/s. now its out, both the rail and the lug thing it slides on a chewed to bits...Will replace these so are these available locally and correct term (couldn't find a p/n in manual)??
Thirdly, - mounting brackets for leg bolts. I've noticed quite a few people / resto reads about installing the stronger heavy duty ones which bolt in both sides of the cab. Has anyone used these and can recommend? Do I need them?
No more updates as it won't be touched for a week. Playfield strip next weekend....
Thanks guys.
PS thankyou to Tim aka Duckman for his advice re stripping sanding. Will be putting that into practice in a few weeks..
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Continued....
Cabinet completely stripped, transformer out to be cleaned as best I can, everything else will get the nifty soak or tumbler.
Few thinks to seek opinions/advise on...
Firstly - the Williams blue / white paper stuck on the inside r/h/s near power box. Best way to remove / save these? I thought they normally have a country on them if they are export? This one doesn't so its either a US release or AUS???? Anyway I would like to keep it so not sure best method.
Slide rails / lugs....I had issues with this one not working properly on the l/h/s. now its out, both the rail and the lug thing it slides on a chewed to bits...Will replace these so are these available locally and correct term (couldn't find a p/n in manual)??
Thirdly, - mounting brackets for leg bolts. I've noticed quite a few people / resto reads about installing the stronger heavy duty ones which bolt in both sides of the cab. Has anyone used these and can recommend? Do I need them?
PS thankyou to Tim aka Duckman for his advice re stripping sanding. Will be putting that into practice in a few weeks..
Hey again Marty,
Re the lables on the inside of the cab, I usually mask them up to respray the black areas, all depending how far you are gonna go (ie, sanding the interior)
On the lugs for the playfield rails, yes they are available on the PSP website as far as i know. (Used some the other day for a T2)
And as for the leg plates unless the wooden mounting blocks are crushed from overtightening or plates stripped you shouldn't need the wider, more heavy duty ones. Although i do prefer them as the are a lot more secure if you tend to give your machines a good thrashing during play!! !*!
(Should see Mark on his MM, that man shouldn't own such a fine machine. I am suprised i haven't had to replace the leg plates sooner!! &^&) lol
Shhhhhhhhhhhh, don't tell him i said that...... :tumble:
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Just tidied up the quotes on your post, Tim ^^^
Can't wait for the updates, Marty !
Great start.
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Thanks Nino, didn't realise i had left it a mess. I posted and jumped off for a bit &^&
But yeah, Can't wait to see your progress Marty, Should come up really sweet!! ^^^
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I need some new staff looking for a replacement duckman
pay is shit
hours are long
boss is a prick
now they are the good points
now where are you working monday Duck#ucker............
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Thanks Tim.
I was planning on giving the cab the full Nino / Highend Pins' treatment, sand, paint both inside and out.
I'll mask the decal up I think as I want it to stay...
I'll checkout PBSP site for the lugs, but I need new rails too?
I'm even considering replacing the braid too...If I can find some at a reasonable cost...
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Thanks Tim.
I was planning on giving the cab the full Nino / Highend Pins' treatment, sand, paint both inside and out.
I'll mask the decal up I think as I want it to stay...
I'll checkout PBSP site for the lugs, but I need new rails too?
I'm even considering replacing the braid too...If I can find some at a reasonable cost...
Braid is here, Marty - Not cheap - But it is what I plan to use for my playfield swapouts !
http://www.pinrestore.com/Supplies.html
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Thanks Tim.
I was planning on giving the cab the full Nino / Highend Pins' treatment, sand, paint both inside and out.
I'll mask the decal up I think as I want it to stay...
I'll checkout PBSP site for the lugs, but I need new rails too?
I'm even considering replacing the braid too...If I can find some at a reasonable cost...
should have rails in stock this week too
mark
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Thanks Mark,
Will keep an eye on your online store for them!
Thanks Tim.
I was planning on giving the cab the full Nino / Highend Pins' treatment, sand, paint both inside and out.
I'll mask the decal up I think as I want it to stay...
I'll checkout PBSP site for the lugs, but I need new rails too?
I'm even considering replacing the braid too...If I can find some at a reasonable cost...
Braid is here, Marty - Not cheap - But it is what I plan to use for my playfield swapouts !
http://www.pinrestore.com/Supplies.html
Thanks Nino. I'll have a look around locally, maybe Middy's or similar may have it....I'm guessing braid is braid and not specific to pinballs?
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Thanks Mark,
Will keep an eye on your online store for them!
Thanks Tim.
I was planning on giving the cab the full Nino / Highend Pins' treatment, sand, paint both inside and out.
I'll mask the decal up I think as I want it to stay...
I'll checkout PBSP site for the lugs, but I need new rails too?
I'm even considering replacing the braid too...If I can find some at a reasonable cost...
Braid is here, Marty - Not cheap - But it is what I plan to use for my playfield swapouts !
http://www.pinrestore.com/Supplies.html
Thanks Nino. I'll have a look around locally, maybe Middy's or similar may have it....I'm guessing braid is braid and not specific to pinballs?
Braid is just Braid - as long as it is a similar guage. If you find something local - let us know !
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Cabinet moved into the basement...Sanding started. Will be a slow process..
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I've had some time today to progress.
The cab is sanded and the repairs are taking place....Tim - I do feel for you. Its not a fun job... !!!
Playfield is stripped, nifty clean on rag first followed by novus.
On the T2 I cleaned and cleaned and polished to get a good finish on the diamondplate, without a huge shine. My Treasure-Cove kit has arrived so I'll give it a shot and see how it works. These are the before shots...
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Hey Marty, I recall reading elsewhere that if you provide the original sticker Wayne will provide a replacement. Don't know if there's a charge factor. But the good thing is that if your paintig bleeds onto it etc etc you could replace it and make it look original again.
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Ok...I'll keep that in mind...I need to get some shopout decals too, so I will make that enq as well. All the serial numbers match on the various cab parts, but I suspect TPF wont supply them (ie outside cab ones) if its not their decal. As they don't make the decal not sure, but will ask.
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Playfield has had a good clean / cut with Powercut 3 & 2. Unfortunately I got two bottles of # 2 instead of a # 1 - which gives it the final shine....
I'm quite pleased with the results.
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Cabinet has been sanded, filled and primed. Putty coat on now. Will need a lot of work still. Front section where major de-lamanation has been keyed out and repaired as well.
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2 steps forward, 4 backwards with cabinet work...Not going great but still working...
I stopped further work on cab at moment and back onto playfield furniture..
Flippers cleaned and rebuilt..
Ball trough, shooter and kickback done the same. The tumbler has been working hard on other bits n pieces too....
More to come....
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Lockdown bar need a lot of work...
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Looking great, Marty - I LOVE your attention to detail - you can see the pride and passion in your work. That SECOND picture of the playfield looks like and album cover from the 70's - Very "Tron" like with the beams of light leaving the playfield like something out of Star Trek.
You are really "going to town" on this game. Looking forward to more updates.
$#$
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Looking great, Marty - I LOVE your attention to detail - you can see the pride and passion in your work. That SECOND picture of the playfield looks like and album cover from the 70's - Very "Tron" like with the beams of light leaving the playfield like something out of Star Trek.
You are really "going to town" on this game. Looking forward to more updates.
$#$
Thanks Nino,
Only learning from the best here!
I'm very happy with the way the playfield has come up. It has a really great shine and no carnauba wax on her yet either...The colours came up really vibrant and the whites are a true white...I'm not sure what Allen has put in his cleaners, but it definately gets the thumbs up from me. I will give it a run on the Police Force (dull mylar) which will be a really good test (but not until the new ramps are ready)...
I'm tossing up another option re the cab at the moment...Not too sure which way to go as yet...
Lots of metal re-graining to go....
I'm resleaving every coil. It looks like Mark and his team replaced the coils on the bumpers and the underside is probably the cleanest machine I've ever owned. I'm not sure whether Duckman went to town on it earlier or if the pinball gods just smiled on me this time!
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GRRRRRRR ive run out of downloads and cant see the pics. Cant wait till the start of the month to see your progress !!!
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Wow great write up, I do enjoy reading restoration posts, keep up the good work! #*#
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Lockdown assembly cleaned and lubed.
Better than it was. I will put new shopout stickers on it once ordered...
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Very nice mate. A part often neglected in restores !
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Nice work Marty ^^^
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Looking terrific! $%$
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Thanks for the support guys!
Things progressing slowly. The cab repair has been a slow process. I've still got more sanding on cab, then about two more coats to finish it off. Backbox has been stripped and initial repairs made. Really only the corners on it. It has brackets in each corner, I'm guessing this is factory?
Playfield is slowly going back together. I've ordered new rubbers from RTBB and waiting on some bits from PBSP too.
Some metal fresh out of the tumbler. Couple need finishing by hand but overall quite nice.
Some other small repairs along the way too. The right wire ramp, the wires there on the outside and tangled around a plastic. I'm not sure if this is factory or not. The only photo I had to compare was one of Allen SHOPES on IPDB which he had restored. I heatshrinked all the wires and hid them. Does not effect the ball either.
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Apron area cleaned and re-assembled.
Trying to get it back to factory as much as possible. Even down to cable ties on coils.
I have always wondered since stripping the playfield as to why the red insert is beneith the apron...? I found recently watched a video about playfield construction and now know! ^^^
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Fantastic Marty,
Just went over this post from start to finish for the first time and have to say you have done an awesome job, well done.
Watching what you have done to this game is kind of frightening - makes restoring an old single player EM look like a walk in the park!
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Your work is fast becoming "legend" now Marty ^^^
DMDs are GREAT FUN to recondition / restore, and you make it look easy. Should be an inspiration to those that are considering doing their own work.
Keep it up !
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AS nino and Tony said you are doing a fantastic job ^^^
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I have always wondered since stripping the playfield as to why the red insert is beneith the apron...? I found recently watched a video about playfield construction and now know! ^^^
I have always wondered the same thing, now that you know can you let me know? !@#
Matthew
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I have always wondered since stripping the playfield as to why the red insert is beneith the apron...? I found recently watched a video about playfield construction and now know! ^^^
I have always wondered the same thing, now that you know can you let me know? !@#
Matthew
AFAIK - from watching the doco (US History channel tour of Stern factory) - its to locate the playfield on the press - which does all the underside holes. I guess they chuck a insert plastic in it just for the hell of it...
Continuing on....All coils now have new sleeves (except slings - these were brass?). Any pivot point - ie rear ramp, hole ejects etc have been dismantled, cleaned and new lube. There is very little wear on any of the metals, which makes me think it is a relatively low use machine. Even the black gunk which usually resides on the underside of the playfield near coils is not there either... *%*
The lovely is helping with regraining all the metals at the moment. Hopefully by tomorrow I should have rest of playfield complete. Have new cliffy to install, new rubbers as well....
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More playfield..
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Tell the lovely she had done a great job. You to mate
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Tell the lovely she had done a great job. You to mate
I did....She wanted to do more on this one, so she's done all the tumbler cleaning and metal cleaning to this point...
The deal is next machine is hers & her choice....She spent around an hour at Marks factory today and has now decided she wants a Family Guy. I'm not sure how much they cost but I know its lots...
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Tell the lovely she had done a great job. You to mate
I did....She wanted to do more on this one, so she's done all the tumbler cleaning and metal cleaning to this point...
The deal is next machine is hers & her choice....She spent around an hour at Marks factory today and has now decided she wants a Family Guy. I'm not sure how much they cost but I know its lots...
Yeah, not cheap. Getaway is so much more affordable in comparison. At least she is interested in pins.
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good work martyj, great attention to detail in this restore, the playflield looks a treat #*#, you're lucky your wife shares the passion for pinballs as well, great team effort.
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Playfield is on the home stretch now. Few more bits in the tumbler and then its done.
Rubbers are on (white) from RTBB %$% Geez I'm glad I chose the white too. Look heaps better as I nearly went black again..
I spent a bit of time tidying up the wiring. I don't know if it was factory or left over from route days but around the super charger and right hand ramp, wires were visible and not heatshrinked.
All thats left now, is to decal cab, re assemble cab, loom and all boards back in... !@#
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Its great that the wife has taken an interest cant even get mine to look at em. And i agree the whit rubbers look good. I used Black on my comet and gorgar but have regretted it since. Im thinking about removing the mylar on both so if i do ill replace the rubbers with white
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Looking really good - this has tidied up very very nicely.
I bet you are itching to play it.
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Looking really good - this has tidied up very very nicely.
I bet you are itching to play it.
Definately looking forward to playing it. Sh*tting myself about installing the decals...
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Cab's moved inside. Headbox ready for colour sand then another coat.
H/duty leg brackets going in..
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You must give them a real caning if you need heavy duty leg brackets!
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You must give them a real caning if you need heavy duty leg brackets!
Not really, but the cabinet was in need of some strengthening to try and prevent future separation. Just more to keep everything square and together, but also for the sake of $12.00 a leg, may as well get it done right. The old ones had had threaded bolts put into them so I wouldn't trust the 2.5mm of thread left in there either...
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There pretty hardcore brackets but ive had a few cabs that could have really done with those installed
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Nice finish mate, looks like it's really comming along.
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Nice finish mate, looks like it's really comming along.
Thanks Tim,
The hard part comes next...
Playfield is now 100% assembled. All cabinet parts cleaned and polished waiting to go back in. Hopefully some more updates in a few days..
Lockdown assembly redone again (by wifey) and shopout decals installed. Probably not necessary but finishes it off quite nicely.
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Progress is going slowly.
Headbox decals done and came up OK.
Coin box decal done, came up OK too.
1 side done but this might go pear shaped. Unfortunately there was slight separation / crease in the middle (top to bottom) of the backing paper. From reading on RGP this is common. I'm out of ideas as the crease is still there. I've laid some playfield glass over it, with weights to try to keep it flat. Not sure if this will work. &^&
Side was done with the semi-wet method (% of windex, % of isocol & % of water - although I used distilled water to be extra safe).... This was the worse out of the two. Cannot touch it now, will go back in couple of days to see. On RGP others have suggested if it doesnt stick, gentle heat may help....
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Looking good so far shame about the crease hopefully your idea with the glass fixes the sucker
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Looking good so far shame about the crease hopefully your idea with the glass fixes the sucker
Thanks!
I have a horrible suspicion it wont. I've read a few people have had then and its disappeared over time !@#
There was another section which had also separated but was sitting a lot flatter. Its gone down a treat. I had no option but the wet method for these...
It would be a shame after all this work if I cant get the crease out. I don't know if I could go through it all again. Would be waiting for $ to go up first then maybe rip into them again. Always easier the second time!
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Im not sure what they are made of but could you warm them up with a hair fryer and maybe shrink the crease?
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That will be the plan. I swapped the glass too. I found another article on RGP about the same problem. It was recommended to put a yardstick over the crease and weigh it down...
I sort of thought as the glass was so big, with the weight would not be isolated to the area. So I've put a length of timber over it (just slightly wider) with weight.
Will check on it in the morning. @.@
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Hopefully it won't be an issue, Marty - and all will be well in the morning. Keep us updated.
The head decals look awesome.
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Hopefully it won't be an issue, Marty - and all will be well in the morning. Keep us updated.
The head decals look awesome.
Thanks Nino,
It was a bit of a known putting them on. I had a peek this morning and it is looking better. Couple of bubbles there, but they may disappear.
I've been in touch with Christopher Hutchins who has been extremely helpful and has also given some great advice. There are quite a few decals out there with similar issues, that generally turn out fine with a bit of work.
Either way, they are not getting touched until Wednesday.
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Ahh.. You contacted the "master", Marty. did you tell him his apprentices are on this site ?
%.%
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Ahh.. You contacted the "master", Marty. did you tell him his apprentices are on this site ?
%.%
I didn't want to put the hard sell on him, but once I'm finished I will send him a link.
I actually contacted him about a week ago, just asking for some advice...I wasn't expecting a reply but he did and was extremely helpful. I can only say he is an absolute asset to this hobby.
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Progress. After some further words of wisdom, the decal is sitting much better. I still won't know 100% for another 24hrs - when premask is removed but trimmed and still waiting final inspection...
Is definately looking 90% better than what it did.... #@#
The mark down the lower left corner is just where the premask was removed. Decal is still 100% good underneith..
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TEASING thats all your doing. Looking forward to seeing this looks great through the mask
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Hehe...not teasing.
I'm still fearful their may be a crease (small) but no way of telling through the premask. It must be left on when doing wet method for minimum of 48 hrs. I probably should have waited to trim, but didn't want the weight of the extra pulling things off. Given it wasn't the full wet / soap method should technically dry quicker. I'm feeling better about it today than last night though!
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OK, the Getaway is now 90% completed. I still have to touch up the corners and a couple of spots where the decal (oversize parts) took a little paint off.
The worst side of the decals came out 99% perfect. The bad news is the side (left) which was not too bad off, went on and the crease which was on it would not budge and has left a crease in the decal. I'm shattered but what do you do. Its annoying the crap out of me as otherwise it would have been a 100% successful resto. I will try with a hairdryer in a couple of days to see if I can get some of it out but its creased and done. Its not really sticking where it was. I think the glue was gone. I might try and put the word out in the unlikely event someone has a r/h/s decal laying about.
Otherwise, new legs, bolts, side rails and I splashed out on a new coin door from TPF. I must say for $120.00 it was well worth it and makes a massive difference.
What else...Hmm...replaced the outlane switch for the kickback. It would generally do a double tap before. The wrong switch was installed and it was firing too early (the rollover metal switch was around the wrong way causing this). Every coil re-sleaved. Every pivot (metal on metal) lubed, every playfield bolt, ramp, screw tumbled and cleaned.
Traffic light - not working, replaced the 3 diodes in her, put some coloured LED's in and now great.
Loom cleaned up and new cable ties. All boards / plugs worked 1st time so at least something went right!...
The playfield came up great. Huge shine on it and plays unreal. I'm very happy with my Treasure-Cove cleaning kit and I'll be using it on all my machines from now...
Huge thanks to Greg (RTBB) for all his help with advice and sourcing parts for me so quickly. Big thanks to Mark for his help too.
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More.
You can see the bad crease on this side.... ^.^
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Inside door..
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Not suppossed to swear but F**K ME that looks a million dollars im extremely jealous. Great work and in such a short time full marks to you Marty
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Very Cool Marty, It's really come up lookin' sweet.
Well done mate, well worth the time and effort that one ^^^
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Not suppossed to swear but F**K ME that looks a million dollars im extremely jealous. Great work and in such a short time full marks to you Marty
Thanks...But I did cheat with new door...Doing it correctly I should have sanded and resprayed the existing door. Just need to learn how to spray with a gun first...
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Very Cool Marty, It's really come up lookin' sweet.
Well done mate, well worth the time and effort that one ^^^
Thanks Tim.
You had left me a rather clean machine to start with. Someone had done a very good job of maintaining it!
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New door old door repainted still looks fantastic but now you have a spare door to practice spray painting on. Spraying is easy just the cleanup sucks lol
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Again - Great Job Marty. You must feel very pleased with yourself - that's a beautiful game.
Finish it off with some custom instruction cards
http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/card/card.htm
Well Done
@@* @@*
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well done mate
looks great , much better than the as is pin i sold you thats for sure
shame about the decal though , there is a few little tricks you can try and help remove the creases
well even just make them smaller
mark
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well done mate
looks great , much better than the as is pin i sold you thats for sure
shame about the decal though , there is a few little tricks you can try and help remove the creases
well even just make them smaller
mark
I'm all ears! Happy to learn tricks. If there is a cost of JD cans let me know.
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Great work Marty ^^^
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well done mate
looks great , much better than the as is pin i sold you thats for sure
shame about the decal though , there is a few little tricks you can try and help remove the creases
well even just make them smaller
mark
I'm all ears! Happy to learn tricks. If there is a cost of JD cans let me know.
JD ? hmmmmm try JW
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MMMMMM JW
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Nice job!
I use the heavy duty brackets too. Of course, I'm usually gluing a beat to death cab back together!
The insert under the apron is supposedly for scratch testing, from the stories I've heard. They can test the finish and still use the playfield if it truly scratches it.
Never understood that, but it's what I've been told!
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The insert under the apron is supposedly for scratch testing, from the stories I've heard. They can test the finish and still use the playfield if it truly scratches it.
Never understood that, but it's what I've been told!
Weird but interesting