Author Topic: Bally 1965 Aces High Restoration  (Read 11365 times)

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Offline Strangeways

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Re: Bally 1965 Aces High Restoration
« on: October 22, 2010, 11:18:22 PM »

Here's the plan ;

Scoremotor is siezed. There's YEARS of solidified grease and other lubricants that has binded the motor and gearbox.I'm not even going to force it. So I decided to completely strip it and bathe it in degreaser. If I cannot get the score motor to work then I'm in trouble !

All switch stacks are removed and clearly labelled. Obviously I've taken a few pictures before starting. THe score motor assembly is finally removed. I've cleaned it with an old paintbrush and degreaser. I was careful not to submerse the motor, just wash the gearbox in an old ice-cream container. When I'm done, use compressed air to clean out any residue. Then I clean the assembly with Isocol. I used compressed air to completely remove any trace of liquid. A couple of DROPS of machine oil (3 in 1) on the shafts - NOT ON THE COGS - they don't need any lubricant and NO GREASE !

After this step is complete, the gearbox moves freely - it is no longer sized. The ONLY problem I have is that the Cam will not prize off the gearbox. So the idea of using this motor in the Star Jet - is a mute point - cannot be done.

Here is a picture of the assembly post cleaning ;







A HUGE improvement. If the score motor does not work - then the game cannot be restored in woring order. The plan is now to move ahead and test the 60VAC to this motor to ensure that it works 100%. Before I do that, I want to re install the assembly back into the baseboard, as the motor needs the "load" created by the friction of the switch stacks.

Now here is an important tip. When removing the switch stacks off a score motor assembly - you need a "system" to record what goes where. A digital camera is a great tool, but in some score motor assemblies, there are FOUR levels of stacks ! So you "peel" away at each stack and use some masking tape to label and record where each stack resides. Some stacks are divided - so use a piece of cardboard (or similar) to simulate the position on the assembly where the stack is separated.

I wrap masking tape around a stack so I don't lose any hardware and I can write the position of the stack. Here's an example ;

"3 TOP 2" = the topmost stack in between motor position "2" and "3" on the assembly"



I've NEVER had an issue with this simple method. There are four positions, and four levels (max) that can reside on an assembly. Each machine will be different, but if you apply this logic - you can confidently rebuild a score motor.


More pictures - I've installed the lowel level of stacks, and I'm starting on the second level (from the top)





As I build the levels - I tighten the stacks. The closest screw to the contacts should be slightly tighter. Clean each set of contacts with a flextone file. Check the "Action" of the switch. Look for any loose wires.





The Baseboard

I like to "section off" the baseboard. That way, it is not so daunting. I've started with the score motor assembly area. Before I start, I cblow away all the dust and crap with compressed air. I then clean with a dry rag, and then I spray on some "Mr Sheen" on a rag and clean the wooden area. It will look a LOT better - takes no time at all !

I also clean the jones plug sockets and look for anything loose that needs attention ;





The fuse block HAS to go. The fuse clips are (literally), older than I am. I also will be re wiring a new power cable, so ALL fuse clips will be replaced with a more modern alternative;




Hopefully I will have the new cable, plug, fuse holders and anything else replaced so that I can apply power to the Score Motor and test this machine !








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