The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: millsy on April 20, 2009, 05:52:43 PM
-
Just finished experimenting with Water-Slide Decals on my Jumping Jack Apron and found it came out a lot better compared to the stick on Decals I did on my Bazaar Apron - refer post http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=726.0.
Millsy
-
Geez, do they look that good in the flesh? Fantastic if so!
-
I would like some decals for my Flash's apron, are these also available? Looks V nice also!
-
As they are like transfers,they are close to the same thickness as the original paint - Definately less obvious than the Stick on decals.
Sinbad - you need a flash apron in the flesh to scan it -in sections if you only have a A4 scanner as I have.
I realise its not original paint but it looks great and isnt obvious unless you look closely as well you will never match the original colours.
Maybe I can describe fully how I did it in the new Tech Learning Thread ?
Millsy
-
Looks fantastic !
The old crew at Pinball Rescue did a set for Gorgar / Flash years ago - same method - looked fantastic.
Obviously this is the way to go for 'decals' yet to be produced.
-
milsy. are you planning to sell theese,i would love a set for my cleopatra,same as yours?
-
As they are like transfers,they are close to the same thickness as the original paint - Definately less obvious than the Stick on decals.
Sinbad - you need a flash apron in the flesh to scan it -in sections if you only have a A4 scanner as I have.
I realise its not original paint but it looks great and isnt obvious unless you look closely as well you will never match the original colours.
Maybe I can describe fully how I did it in the new Tech Learning Thread ?
Millsy
Millsy if I scanned mine you make me some decals? Someone has touched-up some of the artwork on it, and it looks shitty. It has some rust stains as well.
-
Looks fantastic ! ^^^
Would love for you to do a detailed thread on this... Would like to know how to and where the decals were purchased...
Once again a big thumbs up from me !
-
Fantastic Millsy
They look great. You will defiantly have to do a thread explaining your process.
Also just and idea might be good for anyone with really good Aprons to scan them so if anyone need them in the future they can make some up?
-
looks great
where do you get the decal paper in Australia?
-
Need to be scanned through Photoshop as they print out exactly the same size - I can touch them up for anyone - Yes Daniel it is important to have a record of aprons and remember you have to paint the original apron,so the original will be gone for ever.
I dont intend to sell anything as I dont want to tread on copywrite issues & everyone on this forum help out with hard to get EM parts that I may need in the future. I have the files for the Bally & Gottlieb aprons if anyone would like them -PM me - only problem they are large files & may take a long time to download. I am a little colour blind so if anyone wants colour changes I will need R.G.B colour Numbers.
Next experiment will be trying them on Cabinets & Plastics as well as drop targets.
Kev
-
looks great
where do you get the decal paper in Australia?
http://www.thecopiercompany.com.au/products.asp?id=84
-
Thanks Millsy will have a look there
I have found a tool that can be used in firefox
If we believe the colours on the screen this tool will let you get the RGB number by clicking on that color
http://www.colorzilla.com/firefox/
-
Geoffh
I also have the Clear Sticker Paper For Windows & Glass Doors to try on the Plastics.
Those colour pickers come in handy if you havent got a paint programme.
Kev
-
So Kev do you use the clear or white waterslide paper ?
Well what did you use to do this apron ? !@# @.@
-
I dont have photoshop. If anyone can get apron decals for Flash pls let me know.
:)
-
there's some pictures of a nice looking flash Sinbad
Maybe someone could draw some apron pictures up for you?
-
So Kev do you use the clear or white waterslide paper ?
Well what did you use to do this apron ? !@# @.@
I use the clear.
Will try to put the full details on a new thread. WHERE DO I PUT THE NEW THREAD ?
Millsy *!@
-
Kev, How good is that. Well done. I'm keen to give it a go as well. My Pioneer & Golden Arrow has the same apron & are very faded & the mates Surfer needs doing as well.
^^^
-
Kev, How good is that. Well done. I'm keen to give it a go as well. My Pioneer & Golden Arrow has the same apron & are very faded & the mates Surfer needs doing as well.
^^^
Kev,
How good is that? You are really getting it all together in the restoration department.
Good on you mate ^^^
-
I am going to have a crack at doing Flash's apron with Kevs guidance, am looking forward to having another resto project/skill.
*%*
-
I am going to have a crack at doing Flash's apron with Kevs guidance, am looking forward to having another resto project/skill.
*%*
PM sent %$%
-
PM replied Wotto :)
These pics show the shittiness of my Flash's apron, will it be difficult to tidy-up the art? Someone has touched-up Williams, and there is surface rust stains as well, and some art worn-away. The artwork over the ball shooter is near perfect though.
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/Gwind/flashapron001.jpg)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/Gwind/flashapron002.jpg)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/Gwind/flashapron003.jpg)
-
milsy. are you planning to sell theese,i would love a set for my cleopatra,same as yours?
milsey i would love the scans for these.could you please e-mail them
-
Amazing stuff. I put the stick on paper decals on my T2, the W and bottom border parts and its ordinary IMO. This might be the go. Only prblem is to take the sticker off, I reckon I'll lose the original to scan.
But just wondering, I noticed inkjet paper. Doesn't the ink run when wet or have I missed something here?
Look forward to the thread wherever it is
-
APRON ART USING WATER SLIDE DECALS
Here is a detailed description on applying Water Slide Decals (I like to call them transfers),remember you are removing the original artwork off the apron.
TOOLS and MATERIALS REQUIRED
1) A4 Scanner (Don't worry if you cant scan the whole apron, scan sections.)
2) Any cheap Inkjet Printer (These decals use less ink than the normal decal or photo so its works out cheaper)
3) Photoshop or Paint programme.(Best to scan & print through photoshop as they come out the original size) also good programme for cleaning & touching up the artwork.
4) Clear Water Slide Paper (You wont find it at officeworks, I found this to be the cheapest online -http://www.thecopiercompany.com.au/products.asp?id=127 (http://www.thecopiercompany.com.au/products.asp?id=127)
5) Sandpaper,Spray Can of Acrylic Primer & Spray Can of Acrylic Paint, I used Sno White (Available from Supa Cheap Auto)
6) Spray Can of White Knight Crystal Clear Acrylic from Bunnings
7) Sharp pair of sissors to cut out transfer and a bowl of water to remove the transfer.
APPLYING THE TRANSFERS
APPLYING THE TRANSFERS
1) Rubb back the paint on the apron,apply a couple of coats of primer then a couple of coats of the top coat (I also painted the Shooter cover as well as the top apron)
2) Print the design on the glossy side of the decal paper.Leave the printed paper to dry for at least 30 minutes.
Coat the printed paper with a clear acrylic spray. Apply 2 to 3 coats to obtain a clear shiny finish on the paper. This will ensure the ink is sealed on the paper. Allow half to one hour to dry and set. During winter or humid days use a hairdryer to speed up the process.
Once dry, the design or image can be cut out using a sharp pair of scissors or craft knife.
After the transfer has been cut from the sheet, place into a bowl or cup of clean water for approximately 30 seconds.
When the transfer film begins to slip from the backing paper, it is ready to apply to the apron. Slip a small amount of the transfer from the backing to the apron,then gently remove the backing paper while applying the film to the apron.
3) After completely dry, spray complete apron with 1 to 2 coats of clear.
TIP : When cutting out transfers, cut as close as possible to the artwork - Avoid straight lines,use curves around letters - it looks better & looks like a paint layer. Practice on a spare piece of metal or a trashed apron before rubbing back youre original apron in case you dont like the final result.
I think Ive covered everything
Cheers Millsy
-
Good on ya Millsy! Nice solution for a sticky problem!
My Williams Skylab has a shitty apron, so I am looking at something similar following your results. As I do not intend to totally restore the machine I might try to apply the decals directly over the un-refinished apron to preserve some of the patina of age.
-
Amazing stuff. I put the stick on paper decals on my T2, the W and bottom border parts and its ordinary IMO. This might be the go. Only prblem is to take the sticker off, I reckon I'll lose the original to scan.
But just wondering, I noticed inkjet paper. Doesn't the ink run when wet or have I missed something here?
Look forward to the thread wherever it is
I found the difference between the stick on decal to the water slide decal to be the thickness - The water slide decal is close to thickness of a layer of enamel paint - less obvious to look at than the stick on decal.
The coating of clear eliminates any ink bleed from the transfer - exactly the same color that came out of the printer.
Anybody got any spare,trashed later model aprons I can experiment with -preferably with black background like sinbads flash -only requirement -the artwork needs to be visible -does not matter if rusted,chipped,scratched etc as long as I can scan it to get at least an outline of the art.
Millsy
-
I can send you the one from my video Kev it suits the trashed criteria lol !*!
-
With inkjets you have to seal the transfer with a spray. Laserjet ones are colorfast straight out of the printer.
Apparently some printers will print white! That would be handy but expensive I am sure.
-
Good on ya Millsy! Nice solution for a sticky problem!
My Williams Skylab has a shitty apron, so I am looking at something similar following your results. As I do not intend to totally restore the machine I might try to apply the decals directly over the un-refinished apron to preserve some of the patina of age.
I have been considering this also. If I make the apron look like new will it clash with the rest of the machine..........look out of place?
But the apron now is worse than the PF, so guess it is allready a mis-match of sorts (sorry just thinking out aloud).
-
Yeah, it will be good to have the option of removing the decal if I ever want to. No harm done.
-
Good on ya Millsy! Nice solution for a sticky problem!
My Williams Skylab has a shitty apron, so I am looking at something similar following your results. As I do not intend to totally restore the machine I might try to apply the decals directly over the un-refinished apron to preserve some of the patina of age.
I have been considering this also. If I make the apron look like new will it clash with the rest of the machine..........look out of place?
But the apron now is worse than the PF, so guess it is allready a mis-match of sorts (sorry just thinking out aloud).
I replaced all my Posts,Bumper housing & caps,& new plastics - they are all white now & not yellowed so it seems to blend in. May have looked out of place if I had not done this.
Kev
-
There is no problem putting the transfers over the exisisting artwork -they are easily removed (theres no adhesive) as long as you dont put the clearcoat on top.
Kev
-
Making an upgrade on any machine makes the world of difference! The score tray would cover say 1/6th of the total area of the playfied. So if this comes to life and looks new then your machine looks way better. Same goes for the top ball arch, respraying that makes the world of difference.
Really looks like you have opened a can of worms here Kev.
Still can't understand why PBR hasn't resproduced these like Pinball Rescue in Queensland did all those years ago !@#
-
top detailed explaination of the decal process. Really appreciate it and look forward to trying it one day. thanks heaps
-
I agree, nice write up. Love these resto threads.
-
Im going to use these decals to do a touchup on some wear infront of a slingshot on the Firepower....
I just filled in the wear patch using some spack filler and the side of a credit card...damn it came out REALLY good...just need to touch it up now..
-
Im going to have a go at this method on my Phoenix wall hanger see how it works on a yellow base?
-
I have got a scan of a Pinball Rescue Flash decal at 300 dpi I could send to you both.
Sinbad and Millsy, Would this be sufficent to run off a waterslide decal?
3 scans each at 25Mb (total 75Mb), I have PDF'd and the file weighs in at 2.5Mb.
May have to re-size and expand the image sizes in the PDF.
Let me know....
-
Will have a look, PM sent -only problem may be the file format (PDF)-need to know exact size -thats why PST file (Photoshop) is preferable.
Millsy
-
Next Experiment - Water Slide Decals on the front cabinet - this is how it went - will have all these procedures documented on my website eventually. empinballs.com
1) After making original art outlines,I scanned & printed on the CLEAR DECAL PAPER. Sprayed decals with SHEEN clear cloat.
2) Removed all paint with paint stripper & filled divots with filler (I used Gyproc Top Coat filler -it dries quicker & easier to sand)
3) Applied sealer/undercoat/primer (3in1) with BRUSH. Then 2 coats of Dulux Aquanamel water based enamel -Antique white USA with BRUSH.
4) Apllied CLEAR DECALS.
RESULT - As you can see in the first pict. White spots under decals obvious and brush strokes obvious. Reason I think the CLEAR DECALS only to be used on completely flat surface or small lettering applications on aprons - NOT HAPPY WITH RESULT So I removed decals & sanded back.
Next Experiment
1) This time I scanned & printed on the WHITE DECAL PAPER.
2) Used a small roller this time to apply under coat/paint.
3) apllied WHITE BACKED DECALS
RESULT - No white spots or brush strokes - Quite happy with result - Even looks better in the flesh.
Final coat of satin clear to be sprayed on then I will be attacking the rusty coin entrance door & surrounding chrome pieces - Going to try painting with chrome paint - will report how this goes.
-
Great result there Kev are these decals your using expensive?
-
As I am unable to house a air compressor,my limit was spray cans which do work out expensive,this is why i am using paint with roller,decals & pressure pack clear cans. The decals use less ink than normal,the undercoats,paint go a lot further for your dollar,and the decal paper are quite ecoomical compared to photo paper (Found this to be cheapest http://www.thecopiercompany.com.au/products.asp?id=127.
kev
-
Hey Kev
Ive found a few aprons from different machines did you want me to scan em and email em to you? If so what DPI do you want them? One is Pharoah not sure about the others
-
That would be great
Only require sections scanned, preferably scan directly into Photoshop & leave as a Photoshop file (PSD)
300 dpi, True Color,RGB
Dont forget not to throw out any old aprons.
Kev
-
I use paint shop pro will that do the same thing Kev?
-
Not sure,but give it a go -check if there is a file save as PSD file.
Kev
-
Yeah Mate there is a PSD option ill do em for you tomorrow arvo might even pull a few off my machines for ya the 1957 continental cafe looks to be in good shape
-
Front cabinet & coin door completed & quite happy with outcome.
-
That looks fantastic Kev
Is that door done with Paint?
-
Yeah,followed your lead, White Knight Super Chrome from bunnings.
-
Great result - you must be really pleased with the outcome.
-
that looks very nice, well done
cheers Ian
-
Nicely done Kev. ^^^ It looks great!
-
That looks way better than my attempt mine looks like grey paint compaired to that ill be getting a can of that real soon i think
-
Yeh Daniel,thats what that voucher was for.
Kev
-
Long gone my good man. Magic eraser and lots of wetrub for the marathon restore
-
That looks way better than my attempt mine looks like grey paint compaired to that ill be getting a can of that real soon i think
BE careful,Takes ages to dry (Longer in Vic) -I got impatient & tried to refit it too soon (fingerprints).
Kev
-
How awesome does that look?
Kev, for a 'new guy' in the hobby you are sure kicking some serious arse in the restoration stakes!
Well done mate ^^^
-
Great work, Kev !
$#$