Zaccaria Winter Sports

[infinite1977]

Hi guys, I bought a Zac Winter sports project not too long ago which had a missing power supply. I have sourced the power supply from David in the states and just plugged it in today. As soon as I turned the machine on, a fuse blew on the power supply (3rd on in), the lights on the machine light up, but that's it. I also noticed some smoke coming from the cable that connects the displays.

Any suggestions?

[63wizz]

probably disconnect the display connector and try again.

I had a similar problem with my Zac Time machine kept blowing a fuse, cant remember which one, but it ended up being a melted flipper coil.
have you checked all the coils are ok.

Ian

[Retropin]

Hi guys, I bought a Zac Winter sports project not too long ago which had a missing power supply. I have sourced the power supply from David in the states and just plugged it in today. As soon as I turned the machine on, a fuse blew on the power supply (3rd on in), the lights on the machine light up, but that's it. I also noticed some smoke coming from the cable that connects the displays.

Any suggestions?

Mate,

You need to disconnect everything from the power supply and test the voltages coming from it.
Are you sure the smoke was coming from the ribbon cable?? If so - this isnt good as this connects via the CPU.
Voltages on Power supply are:

CN4.....PINS 1+2 = +5VDC
PINS 3+4 = 39VDC


CN5...pin 8 =170VDC...9 IS GROUND..12 IS 12VDC...11 IS 5.6VDC....3,4,5,7 ALL TIED TO GROUND...... 10 IS -5VDC.... 2 IS GROUND.


AC VOLTAGES COMING IN AT CN1

PINS 1+2 ( FUSE F1)  165VAC

5+6 ( FUSE F2) 10.5VAC

9,10 + 11,12 ( FUSE F3) 6,5VAC

7+8 ( FUSE F5) 43VAC

3 + 4 ( FUSE F4) 10VAC

Measure across listed pins to test AC



3rd fuse  must be F3...6.5VAC... this is your lighting circuit... if this blows how can you have lights on??

[pulstar]

Hi, I think I met you when you picked up this machine..

3rd fuse from the right is the high voltage one. All those displays need to be removed and cleaned if they are as dirty as the machine I bought. 170volts will track across dust and battery acid easily. Clean the CPU board as well where the High Voltage Line Runs.

Measure the 170v before plugging in again.

[infinite1977]

Retro, thanks for the voltages. I will test it on Friday when I get a moment. The 3rd fuse is definitely blown. The only lights I get are some play field lights.

I will disconnect all and report voltages when I get a chance.

Pulstar, the boards were actually quite clean surprisingly. I will definately take out the displays and give them another clean. I will also inspect CPU alot closer to try and spot damage.

63, I will check coils also, funnily enough my EWF ha suffered from the same thing, which I now suspect may be the flipper coil.

I will report any news when I can.
Once again thanks for the advice guys, always appreciated.

[pulstar]

To check the flipper coils you need to open up the normally closed contact accross the coil. Then there is one low resistance approx 3 ohms and one around 500 ohms from memory. The normally closed contact should short out the 500 ohms to give the flipper its initial strong kick with the high current 3 ohm winding.


Did you get an EWF as well.. I also have one of these but havent started on it yet.


Shane

[infinite1977]

I have had my EWF for about a year now I think. Got it working, was going well, then all of a sudden it stopped working. Keeps blowing a fuse under the playfield, and has got me stumped now. As I told you when we met my electronics knowledge is quite minimal, so I tend to rely on the forum guys here a lot and if it all gets beyond me, then I call in the cavalry.

I don't think the Winter Sports machine will cost me too much in the end and my EWF has not cost me too much either, so I have been a little lucky considering.

[pulstar]

If the fuse you are looking at is F2 Solenoids 5A, this feeds power out CN2 and CN3 on the power supply... you could remove these and find out which one is causing the fuse to blow. This power then feeds the solenoids and is grounded by the output board. You could remove connectors on the Output Board Responsible for the solenoids... CN14 15 and 16 and see if this stops the fuse blowing. Transistors on the output board RHS are responsible for the Solenoids and can be checked easily with a meter once the Board is removed. However to blow the fuse you would require both a shorted solenoid (diode) and a Shorted Transistor. If you just had a shorted transistor the Solenoid would just come on and stay on when power is applied. Solenoid would get hot and start to cook.
Flipper Solenoids should not come into play until the flipper buttons on the side are depressed and the relays under the playfield are energised?

[infinite1977]

Wow, will try removing Cn2 and 3 and see what happens. Thanks for the advice. You are more than welcome to come over and have a look yourself :) More than happy to compensate

I wont get a chance to look at it until Friday I think, so I will let you know.
( I am assuming we are still talking about Winter Sports)

[infinite1977]

Had another small play and look today.

"F2 (15a fuse) is the one that blows. I definately think it is the cable or a display. With no displays plugged in the were playfield lights. I had no sound, and I am not sure if the CPU was on. Onced I started plugging in displays, the fuse blew agin after player 2,  and player three was plugged in. Good news, no smoke.
I got coil movement, but it seemed like they were locked."

[Retropin]

F2 is your 5.6V logic and 12V supply.. without this there will be no CPU, sound, numbers on displays etc

[pulstar]

There are 2 power supplies, one with 6 fuses (2nd fuse from the left is 15A 43vac) ... this is for the solenoids which run off this voltage... the other newer one has seven fuses. MY hOuse of Diamonds has the six fuse one but my mates Winter Sports has the 7 fuse Power Supply.  On the Seven fuse supply F2 is 5 amp (not 15) and is also 43vac which is your solenoids.

To know if your CPU board is booting simply look at the displays.... absolutely no displays (with all voltages ok) = CPU board not working... no boot.

As suggested before you can try and remove the output connectors from the Output card which are for solenoids,,,, also check resistance across the diodes on all solenoids and look for any that are zero ohms... dont worry about the flippers they dont do anything until you hit the buttons on the side...

[pulstar]

The other thing is ... which solenoid came on... this could be a problem... sometimes one of the transistors on the output card goes short circuit causing the output and associated solenoid to be stuck on.

Unfortunately Lower Templestowe is the other direction from me i'm Southern Suburbs... even Marky C is quite a haul for me... speaking of which I will be there on Saturday.

[infinite1977]

Thanks Retro, that explains alot :)
Shane I will have a look this weekend and do what you have suggested. Well I will try and do what you have suggested :)
I will also take a pic of inside the door as there seems to be some wires that I am concerned about. I dont think there should be too much wrong with it. Will get some fuses and check it all out.

Will keep you posted.
/
Shane did you buy some more pins from Mark?

[Retropin]

Nah mate...

Im leading you off track here.... Ws is 1st gen game and has a different power supply to mine, so anything i say about what fuse does what is sheer rubbish...

Didnt mean to lead you astray... ill leave you in the hands of Pulstar..

...