Author Topic: Creature Prototype Restoration  (Read 7052 times)

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Offline johnwartjr

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Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #15 on: October 29, 2009, 12:15:13 AM »
I am far from an expert on the technology, but I will share some info.

The basic principles are documented on Wikipedia:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultrasonic_cleaning

The way it was described to me is that ultrasonic cleaners use sound waves and are more efficient than many other cleaning methods.

I started off with a cheap ultrasonic cleaner off eBay and was somewhat disappointed with it. I now keep it under the sink in my master bathroom, and about once a month as I jump in the shower of a morning, I throw my glasses in it, filled with warm water and a single drop of antibacterial hand soap, and when I get done, after a warm water rinse, my glasses are refreshed, no more skin oils/grease/whatever gets in every little nook and cranny. Some jewelers use them. But, the $40 USD ultrasonic cleaner just didn't cut it for pin parts.

The ultrasonic I cleaned these parts with was around $250 USD, and honestly, until yesterday,  I thought I may have wasted my money. A friend who is quite heavily involved with the technology suggested I was using the wrong cleaning solution - there are many out there, and depending on what you are cleaning, apparently you can adapt the cleaner you use. One challenge I have giving you an idea of what I use - what I used to clean these parts probably isn't available on your continent. However, I'm sure there's something close.

The cleaners come in all sizes too. Some engine re-builders have one with a tank large enough to stick an entire engine block in.

They make solutions for cleaning things in an ultrasonic cleaner, and they make different varieties depending on what sort of stuff you'll be cleaning. But, what I've done is just experimented with stuff around the house. Mainly cleaners that I've known to work when cleaning parts by hand - because I already had some of those to try.

The degreaser I use is heavy on alcohol - after cleaning parts for 2 days, my hands are very dry and chapped. I had to slather them down with lotion several times, and my hands just absorbed it like a sponge. Next time around, I may use some gloves. The degreaser I am using is citrus based, smells somewhat like oranges. Orange smelling citrus cleaners are pretty common over here. I'm using the degreaser undiluted - but am curious to try it diluted. A 64 oz bottle of this degreaser is $1-2 at a local dollar store, and after cleaning all the metal hardware, I've still got enough of it left to fill the ultrasonic tank once more.

I am also curious to see how windex would work, both straight and diluted. I've used 'mean green' in the ultrasonic, but diluted it pretty heavily as all I had left was a little left in the bottom of a bottle. I've also tried a few drops of dish washing detergent in a ultrasonic full of water. Really, it's a trial and error thing, find what you can get locally and test it out.

One thing that I wonder - is the 'green' movement popular in Australia as it is over in the US? Meaning, environmentally? One challenge I have had over here is that all the manufacturers of cleaning solutions and other things are going very environmentally friendly with their products and reformulating them. The manufacturers swear they work as well, but I'm not convinced yet.

When I bought a jug of windex the other day, it made comments about its green formulation, and it doesn't seem to smell the same and work the same. I cleaned a PF glass with it, and it cleaned the glass just fine, but the other non-intended cleaning purposes of the windex may have been changed. The flitz I use in my tumbler is now in a  new 'green' formulation and I'm not convinced it's the same as the flitz I bought 5 years ago - it smells different and I don't know if it works as well when I go to my spares and look at brackets I tumbled years ago.

Some ultrasonic cleaners have a heater built in, so the solvent can be used at a warmer temperature. If run for about 5 minutes, this one gets the solution warm to the touch - and it seems to get warmer the dirtier the solution gets.

Some cleaners have seemingly nice parts baskets in them, like a deep fryer, so you can lift the parts in and out of them easily. The problem with the one I had with a basket is that the basket absorbed a lot of the waves and didn't clean so efficiently. I still use that one for my glasses, but I don't use the basket in it. With metal parts, you can use a big magnet to fish them out. I imagine to get a cleaner with a basket with tight enough mesh that the smaller parts didn't fall through into the tank, you'd probably lose the majority of the waves, and it'd be ineffective.

Offline pinsanity

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Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #16 on: October 29, 2009, 12:58:17 AM »
Thanks for the info John, I've heard of these ultrasonic cleaners before and was vey impressed after having watched an "industrial sized" one in action in Jay Leno's garage over on popular mechanics:

Video of it in action halfway down the page -
http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/jay_leno_garage/4212345.html

Offline johnwartjr

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Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #17 on: October 29, 2009, 04:47:38 PM »
Day 3 didn't seem to make a lot of progress, but in reality I think it did; I went ahead and started all the hardware tumbling as I just wasn't 100% happy with the finish from the tumbler.

Sorted out a lot of the parts for the reassembly. Hopefully, the parts all being nice and clean will help them tumble more quickly.

Plastic posts etc ready to reinstall


Parts to rebuild pop bumpers


Parts to rebuild flippers and shooter


Tomorrow, I hope to empty out the tumblers, sort parts and start reassemling assemblies. I am considering buying some new coils because a few of the originals didn't clean up to my satisfaction. I hate to just replace perfectly functional solenoids because the wrappers aren't gleaming, but again, I'd rather spend another $50 now than wish I had later and have to tear the game apart again.

Offline pinmadd

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Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #18 on: October 29, 2009, 05:42:23 PM »
great resore thread  #*#
with the new pop bumper assembly's there are you going to fit the GI in them or flasher's? just that im thinking off doing it to mine


Offline johnwartjr

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Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #19 on: October 30, 2009, 02:54:43 AM »
I'm undecided.

I don't want to hack the game up, and would prefer it look somewhat original, so probably just GI for now. Or, maybe I won't install anything in there. The flashing looks pretty cool, but I don't want to screw a bunch of resistors and parts to the bottom of the playfield to make flashers work. I also like the speaker panel LED mod, but find the wiring running all around to be a bit untidy; so I don't think I'm going to do that either.

On the other hand, I did pick up an extra set of Creature speaker grilles, so I could put a new panel in and be 100% reversible.

But, I can think about it a little as I work on the machine.

Offline Strangeways

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Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #20 on: October 30, 2009, 10:39:03 AM »

Fantastic work John. I see no expense will be spared on this machine. Starting mine soon so I'm following with great interest.
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Offline Daring33

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Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #21 on: October 30, 2009, 05:54:51 PM »
John,

I noticed in your playfield (after Restoration) photos that the holes for the flippers hadn't been changed back to original, did that cross your mind (repairing them) to keep it original?  I think you mentioned somewhere that ops were told to drill them out to lower ball times.  I also notice that you have amber bumper caps ready to install, was that the proto colour?

I have a soft spot for this machine so I am really enjoying your restoration.

Offline johnwartjr

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Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #22 on: October 30, 2009, 06:51:46 PM »
Good eye on the bumper caps :) Chalk that up to lack of sleep, now I need to go back to my parts bin, return the amber ones, and grab a red set :) Luckily, I'm stocked up on parts for 3 IJ restorations, so I'll just temporarily swipe a red set from one of them.

Interestingly, I've identified at least 2 different sets of proto ramps! I know of a HUO Proto Creature that was sold by TreasureCove here in Indiana around the same time mine surfaced. My ramps are completely different than the ones on the HUO proto game, which has holes cut on the swirl ramp and the little #86 bulbs poke through the top of the ramp. Much easier to change them in that one! My original proto ramps are pretty decent but not perfect. I have a NOS (not repro) ramp set here that is going on the proto game when I start reassembling the PF, and I'll keep the proto ramps, along with the original plastics and a few other original goodies I'm going to replace due to being worn out etc in storage so I have all the original parts. My ramps aren't much different than production, they lack locations for a couple of clear plastics that I'm assuming were done to eliminate ball traps, but are otherwise identical.

Regarding the flipper holes, I opted to leave them original just because I might want to try the flippers in both positions. You really can't see the holes that well once the flipper assemblies are installed, so it won't be too much of an eyesore.

The game will never really be 'original', in its original form this game was really too far gone to enjoy with all the cabinet damage. Pulling the shooter rod caused the front panel of the cab to pull away from the cab, and the damage also kept the playfield from sliding in and out of the cabinet. I restored a very rough cosmetically sample T2 that was very similar condition, but left the PF original and the cab art original, because there's no repro T2 cab art, and since the sample T2 didn't have diamondplate, it was not an obvious restoration candidate - and the T2 PF had some artwork differences, so grabbing a NOS T2 playfield wasn't an option for *me*. On this game, I decided to go another way, since it was so rough, the art was available, and I already had the PF back from restoration.

Offline johnwartjr

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Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #23 on: October 30, 2009, 07:03:03 PM »
Didn't accomplish as much as I'd hoped today, but as I said earlier, I'm not on a set schedule or deadline. My 'best' full restoration to date took about 90 days. If I can stay motivated, and keep finding time, this one could probably give that a run for its money!

Today, I unloaded the tumblers and sorted hardware. I rebuilt 2 assemblies before packing it in for the night

Flippers

Before


After


Shooter

No before pics
After pic:


Tomorrow, more assembly assembling :)

Offline Pinfan

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Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #24 on: October 31, 2009, 02:01:16 PM »
Nice restore John ! ^^^

A few things i would like to ask...

Why is there 2 different flipper coils  ? One is a 11629 and the other is 15411... !@#

Over the years in my search for a CFTBL i have noticed two major factors in an array of machines..

One being the front cab artwork.... I have seen 2 different types.... One type has a lot more purple on it...hot dog is purple, dice are purple, ice cream is a dull type purple and this can not be put down to a fade factor... Do they all fade they same ????  and the other style  is more detailed with colour... Hot dog is a brown/orange colour, ice cream is a brighter purple colour and there is simply more detail in the artwork..

The other major factor i have noticed is the shooter lane/outer playfield rails....( the out most/outer edge playfield rails, on the edge of the playfield on both sides )

I have seen a majority with what we would consider to be standard timber painted or laminated rails and the other type are a metal grey/black colour rail..

Can anyone shed some light to these interesting finds ???
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Offline johnwartjr

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Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #25 on: October 31, 2009, 03:18:23 PM »
The flipper coils are different values.. because that's the way the game was made. The 11629 is the next step 'stronger' than the 15411. I guess the right flipper needed to be a little hotter than the left one, for whatever reason. Maybe it needs more oomph to hit the shots?

WMS had more than one company screening cabinets for them. There's a good writeup here:

http://www.flippers.be/pinball_cabinets.html

I've had Creature and BSD both twice, one of each had playfields screened by Lenc Smith, and the other of each had playfields screened by Sun Process. WMS used both companies to screen playfields and cabinets, so perhaps each one used slightly different processes?

I've also seen both games with metal and wooden side rails. I's a lot more common to see the metal ones on BSD and the wooden ones on Creature, but both games were made with both styles. Personally, I prefer the wood. The problem with the metal is when the ball wears on it - how are you going to touch it up and get that pattern back? It took 3 sets of siderails from BSDs to get a pair that looked decent enough to put on my game. If the wooden ones need repainted, grab a spray can.



Offline Daring33

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Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #26 on: October 31, 2009, 03:27:38 PM »
I was just about to answer about the coils and you beat me to the post!  I think because the right ramp feels close the left flipper needs the weaker coil, but the shot to get it up the left ramp (when the flap is down) to enter the whirlpool needed that extra grunt.

I have worked on 2 creatures and the first one had the metal rails and the one I have now has the wood, not sure why or how they decided etc.

I remember seeing the treasure cove proto with the  86 bulbs sticking out the top of the ramps, I had forgot about that until you mentioned it.  Like you said John, it would have been far easier to change them!

Oh and I thought that the Amber caps may have been the proto colour, seems not!

Offline Pinfan

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Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #27 on: October 31, 2009, 04:46:00 PM »
Wierd re the coils..... !@#

Anyway thanks for the quick response guys ^^^ !
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Offline johnwartjr

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Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #28 on: October 31, 2009, 06:08:32 PM »
Another downside to the metal side rails - both BSD and Creature have the standoffs that attach to the siderails to attach ramps, etc to. The metal ones strip real easy. No possible way to stick a nut in there, and you can't really repair metal like that any way that I know. Wood, you have a plate with a threaded rod sticking up that you attach the standoff to, and it works a lot better.

I just packed it in for night #5, all assemblies have been cleaned, polished and rebuilt with new coil sleeves etc.

Start of today's photos in the album, if you care to look:
http://gallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/proto_cftbl_progress/DSCN1497

I started off rebuilding the pops



Then, the brackets for the slings and shooter lane feeder



Then, of course, everything gets bagged up so it stays nice and clean til I install it on the playfield



On to a mod all my games get..



I remove the plunger from all slingshot links and similar linkages, and upgrade to a Stern part that is much thicker and takes more abuse. I've replaced a ton of the WMS part, and switched to the Stern part out of necessity - the WMS part became NLA.

So, I clamp the plunger to a 2x4 with a groove ground into it, then drive the roll pin out, replace the link, and reinstall the roll pin. The 2x4 with the groove has a hole cut in the groove so the roll pin can pass partially through. It's best to not drive the roll pin completely out, just far enough to fit the thicker link in.

Side by side comparison of the 2 links, grey is WMS, blue is Stern



Done!



Linkages rebuilt, just before bagging them up:




Offline Strangeways

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Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #29 on: October 31, 2009, 06:26:55 PM »

You are FLYING through this machine John !

Great update  ^^^
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