The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Mr Pinbologist on January 31, 2010, 02:13:44 AM
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Hi all.. here are a few pics of the Gtb Quick draw that was my xmas present to myself! I brought it home last weekend, so now i'm able to put up a few better pics, now that it 's in my garage (the other ones i posted were taken with the camera on my mobile phone).
This game was bought from the Tender Center in Port Macquarie while i was there at xmas time. a mate of mine had called me about a month before xmas and told me about it. It had belonged to a lady doctor (surgeon) who had it in the Tender Center for sale for $1100, and my mate Ian (who i was repairing a few games for) mentioned it again while i was at his house repairing his Stella Wars, and that he had to go to the Tender Center to look for screen doors, so i decided to tag along for a look at Quick Draw as it was still there. Now when he originally called me about this game, i'd decided to give it a miss.. but.. me being the way i am.. and seeing heaps of potential in it.. ended up making an offer of $1000.. (i was told she had knocked back an offer of $850). about a half hour later i got a call saying my offer was accepted #*#
so next thing i knew, Ian and i were loading it into his van and carting it off to his house to be stored there til i could pick it up. Since it was working we set it up in his newly built games room he had built onto his shed, so he could play it for a while, but as luck would have it, it developed a few probs, so he didnt get to play it much, but shouldnt be too hard to fix, now that i have a manual and schematics for it.. (thanks deadlydave) ^^^ ^^^
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more pics... the backglass isnt too bad at all considering what i had to do to the Zac Universe glass!! i will be fixing this one up a bit. *%*
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just a few more pics for now.. check out the 1st pic of one of the flipper buttons.. with thumb tacks for contacts :lol
also note in the 3rd pic.. yes this is between the flippers,some too had screwed a post in there at some stage @.@
and the last pic shows where i had a bit of a go at cleaning up at the top of the playfield, notice the planking on the left.. you can see the cleaned area to the right of the"B" insert... it looked like the left side before i touched it... just some Magic eraser and isopropyl alcohol was all it took.
Anyhow the game has been put away for a few months, til i finish off my Zac Universe, the wildfyre pf and a few other jobs, then i'll make a start on it.
Watch this space!!
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Will this machine get the full treatment ? Cab repaint etc ?
Looks VERY NICE to me. I can see you will refresh the reds in the backglass
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It will absolutely get the full treatment ^^^ ^^^
And yes i'll re-do the reds in the backglass.. thats just about all i'll have to do to this glass
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What is it with GTB reds in the backglass - they never hold up
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I love this machine! great pickup and i cant wait to see her get the treatment!
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Looks great Mitch, will come up a treat, looking forward to the restore ^^^
Cheers
Dave
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Nice looking machine.
I'm sure there will be many a boozy night having fun on that.
Pretty good nick for its age too, especially the backglass.
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great machine, look forward to following the resto
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Hi Guys, Yesterday i made a start on my next project the Gtb Quickdraw that i bought last xmas. I dragged out of storage (my laundry :lol ) and set it up in my spare room yesterday to start getting it up and running. First thing i did was to replace the broken lefthand side plastic hole base and switch arm assembly, I ordered this part as well as a heap of other bits from PSPA a while back. after removing the old brokrn one as well as the kicker arm, i found that the hicker arm hinge pin was really loose, so it was necessary to tighten it up again, a ball pein hammer made short work of that luckily, the last pic shows the repaired and polished kicker arm reinstalled back onto the PF.
After that, i removed and cleaned up the stepper wiper arms and, cleaned up the disc contacts with metho and rag, and gave them a clean up with a scotchbrite, which saw the game up an running, with one or two issues i'll go into detail on in the next post. at this stage im only doin enough to get the game to actually work, so i can work out what else needs to be done, which will be taken care of properly when i start the full restore.
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now one of the real problems with this game, was that when it served the next ball into the shooter lane, it would sometimes add 500 points to the player 1 score and 100 points to player 2 reels, ( this was the scenario happening for a single player game btw)!! this problem had me stumped for ages ^&^ so with the aid if the schematic, i worked out that there is a set of contacts on the score motor (1st and 2nd pic show the schematic and the switch in question). from the schematic i worked out that once any of the PF switches are triggered, the power is removed from them by the switch i have arrowed in the schematic and the score motor pics, until the score motor again comes to rest. So what i did was to connect a test light, one lead to the side of this switch that provides power the all the PF switches, and the other to the black wire that runs to all the coils, thus giving an indication of when the PF switches should have power applied to them. The problem seemed to mostly occur when the drop targets were resetting. So next i removed the power to the score motor so i could turn the motor by hand slowly. Then i triggered the switch in the trough so the ball return relay would latch. Now when i moved the score motor by hand, the test light should've gone out before the drop targets reset, but it didnt happen that way!! moving the motor slowly revealed that the targets were resetting about the same time or before the test light went out, which would naturally pulse the 500 point relay as the drop targets reset, because the power wasnt removed from the switches quick enough.
Next post will show how i fixed it.
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initially i found that i could get around the problem by gapping the drop target reset contacts shown in the previous post, a bit wider so contact with was made later in the sequence by the activating post on the score motor metal disc. but it was still activating the drop target coils too soon for my liking.
so i took another look at the switch stack with the contacts for the PF switches. after removing them, and the metal actuating arm, i realised that the actuating blade could be moved in as pictured here, opening the switches earlier. at this stage i was ready to try anything, and i didnt know if it would affect the rest of the game. Anyway i decided to try it, i had nothing to lose. the 1st pic is with the lever in its original position, and the 2nd pic is after i moved it.Well it seems the problem is now fixed.. no more phantom scoring when going to the next ball $#$
and better still, it seems to have affected nothing else on the game .. everything works as it should!! i just have to attend to the usual hassles now like sluggish score reels and the bonus unit is giving extra points sometimes when it shouldnt be.
I hope i explaind all of that clear enough to follow :D :D
Stay tuned for further updates!!
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Great work @@*
I noticed on all GTB schematics there are drawings of all the motor position switches. The lever is also drawn with a S & L near the slots. I figure now that S would stand for short & L must stand for Long stroke. Keen to see this restore completed !
Greg
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G'day all. I finally got a start on restoring my Quickdraw PF.
Over the last couple of nites i started stripping the top side of the PF, and removing the mylar (pics below) I used a heat gun on the low setting, to soften the mylar glue and started from the bottom of the PF, peeling it up slowly, heating a small section at a time and peeling it up... and YES some paint DID come off, as can be seen in the last two pics here ^&^ ^&^
But luckily mostly only in tiny spots that i would be able to easily repair. As i said, i took my time removing the mylar, took about an hour to remove it all. Next i had to remove the mylar glue, using metho and rags, which took a bit over yet another hour.
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more pics.. after the mylar glue was all gone i broke out the magic eraser and isocol and did some cleaning up, removing the crap from the fine cracks and ball swirl in the areas not covered with mylar. While cleaning the return /outlanes i managed to rub through the yellow.. making more work for myself.. D"OH!! @.@ @.@ not happy about that!! anyway it ended up looking ok with some touchup.
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Now i am up to the paint repairs. in these pics i've used waterbased acrylic paint for the repairs, slowly and carefully brushing the paint in to build up the worn paint back up level with the surrounding paint.
In the 2nd pic, i ended up repainting the whole of the light blue at the top of the PF on either side of the top lanes. Its all brushed on rather than sprayed. went on nice n flat, turned out pretty sweet me thinks!!
in the 3rd pic i've redone the yellow in the bumper areas and touched up the white spots in the red, using the old "paint & smear" trick. the same was done with the spots of lifted blue paint near the bonus ladder inserts seen in the mylar removal post.
Next, the dark blue will be repaired where necessary as well as the reds on the rest of the PF. Also sone of the inserts will need to be removed if possible and levelled.
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Good stuff, Mitch ^^^
How did you brush the blue section - it looks sprayed on ? How do you get the level correct and avoid brush marks ?
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Nice work once again Mitch ^^^
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Good stuff, Mitch ^^^
How did you brush the blue section - it looks sprayed on ? How do you get the level correct and avoid brush marks ?
Hi Nino, i ended up doing these sections in several light thin coats, i took my time with this, trying to blend in the new colour with the original where possible. In the top section i found this difficult to do so i ended up painting the whole lot, which i was a bit apprehensive about doing, even though i knew i could simply wipe the paint off with a wet rag if not happy with it. The wear below the bumpers blended in real nice, and can barely be seen. Its really not that hard to do, you just need to take your time and not try to rush it.
At first i tried mixing the colour out of auto acrylic, brushing it on, building up layers above the pf and then block sanding it level but i wasnt happy with the colour match after blocking back, then i resorted to the old waterbased acrylics, naturally i had to mix the colour lighter to allow for the paint darkening as it dries. So i ended up leaving the auto acrylic on there (to fill the wear hole) and just painting a thin coat or two of waterbased acrylic over the top, thinning and feathering it out into the original finish.. looked much better in the end.
The paint dries really flat, ie no gloss compared to the original paint on the PF, which can be seen with light reflecting off the PF, but once the mylar goes on it wont be noticeable.
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Just a quick update;
Been busy working on the top section of the pf, cleaning up and touching up where needed.. a few pics of how its looking so far...
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Normally when im doing up a PF, i'll make an effort to remove and at least re-level the inserts if they are ones with lettering on them. well these ones are all sunken and concave in the middle so my usual trick is to remove and sand them flat, again (3rd pic show this). so being that these inserts all have lettering that would have to be preserved or re-done, i made scans of one of the insert's 'when lit' text and of the middle A B &C inserts so i could make adhesive decals if the text to reapply once i had them sanded nice n flat.
Anyhow the pics show some of the inserts removed, and the adhesive decals printed ready to be reapplied. the insert flattening process, first using 80 grit sandpaper (pictured) then 400 and finally 800 grit paper, and finally one of the inserts wit the decal applied. Btw.. This insert is the 'extra bonus' insert, which when i removed it using a heat gun to soften the glue, and a socket and hammer tp tap it out.. i managed to deform the insert in the heating process @.@ @.@
luckily i was able to save it in the sanding flat process!!
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More pics... in the 1st pic the extra bonus insert is only being test fitted into the hole and wont be glued in until the screw hole that some tool had drilled into the pf at some stage has been repaired ^&^ ^&^ why do some people do this crap?? ^.^
2nd and 3rd pic are the A B C inserts reglued in and levelled, and the black circles redone. I did these with a sharpie pen and a math-o-mat initially, but ended up going over them with a fine paintbrush and some black acrylic paint, not quite finished when this pic was taken.
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Going great there Mitch @@*
Looking forward to seeing how you tackle the pf holes,
the same idiot must have owned my QD at some stage &^&,
Keep up the good work.
Cheers
Dave
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Yes, the post in the centre of the flippers mod..... SO many games have this done to them.
Enjoying your posts Pinbologist... all good stuff!
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A quick Quickdraw update.. :lol
I spent some time today removing and flattening and reinstalling inserts, and retouching the black circles around them. Im only using sharpie pens for the circles in these inserts rather than painting, like i have just detailed in my Wildfyre resto thread, mainly because i dont think i need to go to that extreme with this Pf.. that and im doing this one in my spare room in my unit (rented) and id get shot if i messed the place up :lol
In the first couple of pics im removing and levelling/reinstalling the inserts a few at a time.
And the last two pics, some of the other inserts re-done.
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More pics.. this time showing the repair of the outhole section, where some dickhead had drilled and fitted a post ^.^
First i had to fill the hole, i used auto body filler for this, sanded it back level with 280 grit sandpaper and touched up the paint using waterbased acrylic. Then it was just a matter of re-doing the missing lettering, which i did using a fine tipped sharpie pen.. nice n simple!! This PF will be mylared using a sheet big enough to cover the whole pf, as have all of my games.
I ordered the mylar today, so this pf should be finished next week!! this of didnt need a lot of touch up, there are still a few bits i have to fix up before the mylar goes on, but they wont take long to do... I love the easy PF restores!!
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Here is the adhesive sticker paper im now trying for doing these inserts, since i ran out of the other stuff i was using and can't get it locally anymore it seems ^&^
i bought it online from here http://www.thecopiercompany.com.au/products.asp?id=282
I gave this stuff a try today for the return lane inserts, and is seems like it'll work well for this. Its crystal clear unlike the other sticker paper i was using, i'm now wondering how it'd go for repairing backglass artwork, like i did on my Zac Universe glass, since its main use is for glass!!
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Looking good !!!!!!!!!
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How does the print come up on the clear window vinyl?
I tried water slide decal paper once but wasnt happy with the finish on the print from my ink jet printer.
Id be interested in how this stuff comes up
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Great job Mitch
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How does the print come up on the clear window vinyl?
I tried water slide decal paper once but wasnt happy with the finish on the print from my ink jet printer.
Id be interested in how this stuff comes up
The print came up pretty good on this stuff. I had been having problems lately with the waterslide decal paper, the edges being printed blurred and furry looking on my inkjet printer, could be the ink getting old?? (its been in there for a while).
When i bought the clear window sticker, i also bought some waterslide decal paper for use in a laser printer, so i'll be trying that next time. Im thinking that the laser decal paper should work better as there is no need to seal the print with clear lacquer before using, unlike the inkjet paper, so should be even less noticeable.
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Great update, Mitch. Levelling inserts makes the end result so much better.
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Hi Mitch Great to follow your progress its looking good and its a great old game Howzat *%*
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Hi guys, just a quick update on my Quickdraw PF progress;
The touchups (not much needed in that department) and the insert levelling were all done over the last few nights. I ended up deciding NOT to do ALL of the inserts, mainly because they really werent that bad as they were, and that some of them were hard to get at to push them out without dismantling half of the underside mechanisms. Only the inserts where the ball was most likely to get stuck were done.. ie above rollover lane entries, bonus ladder, and extra bonus insert between flippers.
The mylar has been applied now.. following pics show the mylar having been cut to size, and being applied, and a couple of shots after the mylar application.
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Next i started cutting out the holes in the mylar for the posts, and rollover slots and started fitting the posts back on. Before putting the posts on i polished them with Re-po paint doctor and cloth, cleaning each post before attaching them back onto the PF.
Now the first couple of pics show one of my stuffups! This post screw just twisted off in the PF while attaching one of the posts ^&^ ^&^ It wasnt even really tight going in, the screw must;ve been weak/brittle or something. Anyway after much swearing at it!! the only way i could think to remove the broken thread was to drill into the PF beside the broken piece, and knock the broken screw thread out through the hole i drilled. After a couple of attempts, i managed to tap the thread through the Pf and out. To refill the holes i squirted some PVA glue into the holes and drove pieces of bamboo meat skewers, into the holes (2nd pic).
3rd pic is the post refitted securely into the hole.. worked a treat #*#
And final pic showing where im at with the PF reassembly at the moment.. will add more pics tomorrow!
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Looking great Mitch . ^^^
Nice recovery with the post hole problem. Thanks for mentioning your technique with that. I need to do the same on a couple of the worn screw holes on my Firepower for the left hand metal drain/ball guide
Cheers
Dave
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Thanks Dave. That was a trick i read about in the Mr Pinball website http://www.xmission.com/~daina/pinball.html
in the repair tips section. Heaps of useful tricks there ^^^
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Great Job Mitch.
Thanks for posting.
J.D.
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Looking good Mitch hate when the posts snap have had a couple myself and it is usually followed with a few choice words
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There were more that a FEW choice words thrown about Daniel :lol all turned out good though in the end ^^^
Well today i didnt get as much done as i would've liked to, but i got the wood rails sanded back and a fresh coat of clear sprayed on to pretty them up a bit. sanded them back with 80 grit, followed by 220 and finally 400 grit before hitting them with several coats of clear acrylic. Once they were dry i gave them a light sand back with 1200 grit wet/dry paper and buffed them with a cloth and some 3M hand glaze.
Ok some pics.. tonight i started putting on some of the new plastic lane guides and a few rubbers after refitting the wood rails. The metal top arch guide and the kickout hole guides were polished up with Autosol before refitting to the PF. All screwheads are being buffed with Autosol as well before they are fitted.
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Time for another small update...
I haven't had much time lately to devote to this project, but about a week ago i decided to tidy up the standup targets which were looking rather shabby.
To do this, i used the same clear window decal material used for the inserts (2nd pic shows printed decals, extras in case of f@#kups!!).
I took a good square on picture of one of the targets rather that trying to scan it, then cleaned up and resized the image in photostudio ready to print. I then cleaned off the old bullseye markings with prepsol, polished them with Re-po paint doctor (this made the rivet nice n shiny too!), then wiped them over with prepsol again to remove the wax from the Re-po paint doctor so the decal would stick properly. before applying the decal i used a hole punch to remove the centre of the decal so it would go over the rivet on the target. Then i trimmed off the excess decal with a scalpel, and applied some mylar over the decal to protect it. The mylar too was hole punched to go over the rivet.
Last two pics show the targets in the PF holes, i still had some trimming to do when these pics were taken, hence the jagged edges that can be seen (trimming has been done now).
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Looks great love the reflection of the Mylar
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And over the last couple of days i re-did the bumper bodies artwork, again using the same window decal material. 1st pic shows the printed test run for the decals, and the cleaned off bumper bodies, ready for decals to be applied. i had to resize the art several times til it was right, my first attempt at the decals printed too big @.@ I hate wasting this stuff @.@
And finally a pic of the finished bumpers, complete with the new caps from PBR (thanks Cam ^^^ ) After i had successfully applied the decals i gave them a quick coat of clear acrylic to protect the ink. The bumpers mechanics have been fully cleaned and rebuilt, using new coil sleeves. One of the rod & ping assemblies had a loose rod, which i had to repair, by clamping it in a vise, and peening over the rivetted top part with a ball peen hammer, to get the rod nice and tight again.
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Coming along nicely Mitch, check your mail.
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Very nice work Mitch ! Those targets look new.
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Thanx guys for the kind words.
Well today i got the top arch repainted and installed. I stripped it back to bare metal with the clean n strip disc in the drill, then hit it with a few coats of acrylic primer. After that had dried i rubbed the primer back with 400 wet&dry paper, wiped it down with Prepsol and the gave it a couple of coats of acrylic white (1st pic). While that was drying i then buffed up the ball gate and rebound rubber metal mount.
And tonight i refitted the top arch with its parts and fitted it back onto the PF. All of the screw heads have been polished as well, by spinning them in my drill, and using Auto sol and cloth to polish them to a nice shine (2nd pic).
Next to do will be to polish and reinstall the wire lane guides, fit the few posts that havent been fitted yet, and to rebuild the flippers.
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Hi guys just another small update for now..
Tonight i rebuilt the flippers, i ended up making new links for the plungers out of fibreglass PCB material, two pieces of it superglued together to double the thickness.. same as i have done in the past on some of my other games.. Stern Dracula and Lectronamo, first pic shows the finlshed links reinstalled onto the plunger and flipper pawls.
and last weekend i spent some time repairing lamp sockets, all of the GI sockets have been repaired, soldering up the join between the barrel part where the globe fits in and the mounting lug, and soldering the lamp socket wires directly to the centre pin as shown in the pics. All the feature lamp sockets are yet to be done.. painful job but it must be done *%* ^&^ i used some pieces of spaghetti insulation over the wires that were originally bare, so as not to tempt fate and have them short out!
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And now im in the process of polising all of the metal acorn nuts for the plastics. I'm halfway thru doing this job, (had enough for one nite) ^&^
Anyhoo a couple of pics.. befor and after polishing, to do this i put an old post screw into the electric drill, screw the acorn nut onto the post screw and spin the drill while holding a rag with Autosol against the nut.. works well so long as the rag doesnt get caught in the spinning post screw :lol
And finally a pic of the PF with the new plastics from PBR, thanks yet again to Cam (big dog) for getting these for me in one of his PBR orders, along with the lane guides and bumper caps ^^^ ^^^
Next task will be to finish the lamp sockets, rebuild the drop target banks, and the bonus stepper unit..
EDIT... added a pic of the ball trough components reinstalled after cleaning and polishing :D
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MINI MICRO UPDATE :D :D
Yesterday and today i spent some time working on the apron, prepping it for a decal. I'm going to be using a Pinball Rescue apron decal on this rather that making my own. This morning i PayPal'd them the money for the decal for this one and one for Wildfyre, so i should have them, in a week or so!!
Anyway, 1st pic is of the faded and crappy apron from this game. I completely stripped it back to bare metal, then, after a wipe down with Prepsol i hit it with some acrylic primer, followed by a black guidecoat.. just black acrylic (2nd pic).. a trick i learned from my time working with my brother when he was a panelbeater/spraypainter. This will (hopefully!!) stop me rubbing thru the primer and back to bare metal :D. (stop sanding when the black disappears.. well thats the plan anyway!!)
I sanded back the primercoat carefully with 400 wet&dry, wiped the apron with Prepsol again, then sprayed on several coats of acrylic white. It is now ready for the decal when it arrives.
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Good tip on the black guide coat Mitch.
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Thanks Dave.
Most of the guys here who have anything to do with cars and panelbeating/spraypainting will very likely already know of this trick, and i know there are a few here *%*
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Well today the apron decals arrived from Pinball Rescue $#$ $#$
As i said i ordered decals for this game and for the Wildfyre PF, both are pictured here.
Anyway this afternoon i wasted no time in applying the decal to the newly painted apron, which has now had nearly a week for the paint to cure.
Actually applying the apron decal is a little bit daunting, especially with the narrow edges near the left and right hand sides of the instruction cards area. The instructions suggest to use some soapy water on the apron to help position the decal, which i did. I DID manage to get some crap underneath the decal on the edges which made it look a bit bad ^&^ ^&^ ^&^ ^&^ so because it was mainly at the edges this happened, i was able to trim the decal with a scalpel close to the artwork, after that it looked much better!! It would be MUCH easier applying these with someone to lend a helping hand, but i managed to get it on there without wrecking it :lol
Pics show the end result. and i couldnt help myself and sat it on the PF to get a look and a picture. The shooter gauge is yet to be done, this will be done tomorrow, and then i'll post some before and after pics of the playfield.
EDIT; This morning i finished of the shooter gauge, repainted and applied the decal (4th pic)
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Makes a huge difference well done
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Exceptional. I like the idea of the guidecoat. I've seen it done on cars, but not on pinball.
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Looks brilliant, thanks for showing it to us.
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Looks Fantastic Mitch .. Great work as always . ^^^ Thanks for taking the time to post this resto. I recently applied my 1st Pinball rescue decal so can relate to where you are coming from with that.
Cheers
Dave
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The topside of the PF is pretty much finished now except for a couple of wire guides that are missing, which i'll probably have to make.
Just need to finish off the work underneath, ie finish lamp socket repairs, drop target rebuild and bonus unit stepper.
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Well its been a long time coming, but i thought this weekend i'd pull my finger out and get some more done on this Quick Draw of mine.. since its been ove six months since i've touched it!!
So i thought id remove the backglass and do some touchup/repaint work..
1st pic of how the glass looked as purchased, my apologies that i didnt get any better 'before' pics &^&
2nd and 3rd pic of the areas of concern, faded and flaking off paint. I'm using the same tricks i used on my stern Dracula, and Zac Universe BGs, ie scrape the old damaged paint off and spray new colour in. I'm using the same Power Plus brand auto acrylic spray paint i used on the other BGs to redo the reds, "Centre Red" the colour is called.
In the 3rd pic i had started removing the old paint, carefully scraping with a scalpel, up to the white border of the game name text. Normally i heat the blade in a flame and cut along the edge of where the paint will go to to give a clean edge, but i didnt do that with this glass, just VERY carefully scraped up to the white border of the lettering... not ideal i know, because its asking for trouble, but i managed to get away with it this time :D
last pic, shows the stencil i cut to spray the red on, i used gloss photo paper (cheap stuff) for this, before i used normal A4 printer paper, but i had trouble with paint bleed thru the paper, gloss photo paper works much better. As i did on the Drac glass, i allowed the red to overlap onto the white, which means the white will wash out a bit when lit up, but it'll look 10 times better than it did!!
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more pics... paint going on and the end result from the front.
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Excellant work @@*
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More pics.. this time redoing the cowboy's red shirt :D
Man, this was tricky to do!!!! removing the old red paint while not disturbing the black detail markings ^&^ took ages to do, i scraped back to the lines as much as i dared to, so as not to risk them being chipped off the glass!! i DID give this area a VERY light spray with Triple Thick and allowed it to dry before attempting this, which i think helped a bit.
Also i forgot to mention, that i clean the glass with tissue moistened with Windex before spraying the paint on.
4th pic, the end result, again not perfect, but WAY better than how it was *%*
some bits of the old paint can be seen, but these disappear when backlit
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just a few more pics for now... some chips of paint came away from the cowboys face which i had to try to touch up, i decided to see if i could do these by touching up with a brush and waterbased acrylic. i positioned a light under the glass so i could see if the paint was going on in a consistent thickness, to try to match the translucency of the original paint. i thought it was worth trying, if it didnt work out i could do the same as for the red, remove the old colour and mix the colour and airbrush it on instead.
Pics show the result... turned out not too bad at all!! the last two pics show where im at with it at the moment, last pic i placed a desk lamp behind the glass to light it up for the pic. looks better in person than it does in the pic. its hard to get a good pic of a lit BG at the best of times!!
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A lot of patience shown their Mitch - and the results reflect that, and the attention to detail. Great work.
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Thanks Nino. My patience will be tested a lot more before its done i can tell you!! *%* i still have to redo his left arm yet, which you can see is still the faded colour in the pics, and that has the silver mask over it on the back!!!!!
If you look near his left shoulder in the last two pics you can see where i have started to remove the old paint. there'll be a few hours just in doing THAT section !!!
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Awesome work Mitch, looks great so far ^^^
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Top work as usual Mitch . ^^^ I've still got a few BG's needing work .. must get around to them soon.
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Great work Mitch !!
You have a hell of a lot more patience than me.
My QD backglass is in a similar state, I am patiently
Waiting on a Repro :tumble:
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Lots of time is going in to this its looking really good its going to be a great old game Howzat
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Great job mitch
J.D.
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Beautiful work - the glass is coming alive again for sure, especially with the reds! ^^^
It would seem that the glass has not yet had any Triple Thick applied, as you are scraping paint away. I presume you may be going to seal it after? The reason I ask is that in some cases it would appear that sealing is the first thing to do (eg. what Nino recently did for the Buccaneer), and in other cases the sealing may need to come after.
It probably depends exactly on what is needed for the restoration of the backglass.
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Beautiful work - the glass is coming alive again for sure, especially with the reds! ^^^
It would seem that the glass has not yet had any Triple Thick applied, as you are scraping paint away. I presume you may be going to seal it after? The reason I ask is that in some cases it would appear that sealing is the first thing to do (eg. what Nino recently did for the Buccaneer), and in other cases the sealing may need to come after.
It probably depends exactly on what is needed for the restoration of the backglass.
I generally dont Triple Thick a glass when i do this type of paint repair, since the glass has to be scraped clean. though for this one i DID give it a very light coat of TT (just over the damaged areas) before i started scraping back the old paint, my thinking was it might help save surrounding areas from losing flakes of paint as i worked on it. Some paint DID come up off the cowboy's face while i was working on it which i had to touch up ^&^ luckily it came out ok!!
Sometimes i will seal a glass im working on first with TT before i spray paint on as im doing with this BG, if there is danger of the paint bleeding under surrounding art work which may be lifting.
I'll probably give the whole glass a coat of TT when im done.
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Hi guys, a bit of an update on QuickDraw:
I've been busy with the backglass still, got a fair bit more done in it over the last couple of days.
In these pics i'm redoing the cowboy's left arm. and what a painful exercise that was, due to the fact that this area had the silver mask over the back, so it took a LOT of time and careful cutting with a scalpel. Basically i had to look for the black keyline imprints from the BACK of the glass and cut with a scalpel blade heated in a flame (so the blade would 'melt' its way thru the paint and not chip it), as close to the keylines as i could manage without damaging areas i wanted to save.. VERY tricky exercise that was!!
I tried to save the black detail lines (creases in his sleeve) but it was just too hard to do so i ended taking all of the paint off and redrawing the detail back in afterwards, using a picture as a guide, i took a picture from the front, and printed out a front view as well as a reversed (mirrored) image to copy from while redrawing the lines back in by hand using a sharpie pen (2nd and 3rd pics). After i had the lines drawn in i trimmed them up by scraping with the scalpel blade so they matched the picture as close as i could manage.
Last pic shows the results.
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More pics,
1st pic is after the flat white has been sprayed on, to help diffuse and even out the lights when lit up, and to brighten the red a bit. Also some of the silver mask has been applied over the left arm as it was originally. I used acrylic primer for the white diffusing paint, just a couple of very light coats, just enough to cover the red a bit, otherwise too much light is blocked out.
2nd pic showing a front view of the progress at that stage..
last pic showing more of the white having been applied...
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more pics, this time redoing the blue in his legs,
1st pic; removing the old paint,
2nd pic; setting up the stencil cut out from gloss photo paper ready for spraying
and the view from the front after done!!
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more pics...
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more pics, this time touching up the yellow in his vest. i used waterbased artists acrylics for this, carefully brushing the paint in, building up the thickness while checking with a light behind the glass to make sure the translucency matched ok. I wasnt sure how well this would look initially, but it worked out well #*#
The colour i used is called 'Cadmium Yellow" and matched really well.
Once that had dried i sprayed a couple of light coats of flat white on.
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And finally some pic of where im at with it at the moment.
1st pic taken with the camera flash on to try to show some detail
2nd pic, with light shining thru the glass (flash on)
3rd pic, flash off. Just to try to give you all an idea of how its looking, its really hard to get a good picture of how it looks lit up, believe me it looks MUCH better in the flesh, lit up!! Im not going sit here and say it looks like new *.* its not perfect by any means, but it looks WAY better than it did before. For me its all about fixing as much as i can to make these BGs look as good as i can.
I have given the whole glass a coat or two of Triple Thick to seal it, i just have a few little waterbased acrylic touchups to do, and its done!!
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That looks great Mitch @@*
A big improvement on the BG, well done!!
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A huge improvement Mitch .. great work ^^^
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Great results. Looks terrific. Wish my Quick Draw was looking this good. Well done ^^^
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Thanks for the positive comments guys ^^^
Today i finished up the last of the touchups, just a few spots of yellow, and one of the match numbers which needed attention. And ALL backlit areas so not quite so straightforward to do!! Once again just by carefully brushing the paint in, one coat at a time and building up the thickness to try to match the translucency of the original paint as well as matching the colour. The yellow matched straight out of the tube as i said in my previous posts, the light blue in the match area i had to mix up and match as best as i could (had to mix some white in, as the blue was a slightly too dark straight out of the tube), after a couple of attempts i got it pretty close.
The yellow touchups came up pretty good when backlit, the blue in the match number section, not quite as good as i would've liked, but its acceptable i think, and only shows up a bit if that number is lit up, it cant be noticed when that lamp is off (before it stood out like dogs balls)!!
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And finally some pics of the end results, i could've gone a fair bit further and done a lot more but i reckon its good enough as it is *%*
a few pics of the glass installed back in the game and lit up (2nd pic)...
3rd pics without the camera flash
4th pic with the room lights off.
I've just about done all i'm going to do with this game, as its leaving my collection and going to a new home soon as i can arrange it. I will finish off the lamp sockets and make sure it all works properly before it goes, the new owner will complete the resto (cab repaint, chrome cleaning etc).
I'm doing a swap with another AP member for a game he has that i like, and he gets an EM for his collection!
not mentioning any names, or anymore than that at this stage.. <.> :D
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Tenacious effort, that's for sure. Don't know if I've seen a resto attempt with soooo much patience as with this one. Well done, and the last image is really good! ^^^
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Awesome work mate, that looks great ^^^
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Thanks guys ^^^ i was pretty happy with how it turned out.
This game has now left my collection, it now belongs to AP member 'howzat' (Ian), i took it to his house last Friday and set it up in his gameroom for him. We did a deal and i now own his Bally Black Pyramid, which was a game i always liked from the good old days. #*# Ian still has it at his house, i'll pick it up soon as i am able to, he's got three of my machines there now.. :lol , and his shed is looking even more impressive with a few more pins in there, even though three of them arent his #@# and its likely he might end up having to store a few more for me temporarily if i have to move house!!
Ian.. if you read this see if you can post some pics of how your shed looks now &&
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Reward for effort is outstanding Mitch. Well done !
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Hi Guys Ive owned the game for 12mths now and had lots of fun with it, but I would like to sell it as there is so many other games I need and space is limited !!!
here is some finished pics For who ever buys this game it is very reliable and you can see what has been done to it
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Nice job love GTB EM titles
Adrian.
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#*# #*# #*# #*# #*# #*# #*# #*# #*# #*# #*# #*# #*# #*# #*#
amazing job !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
very nice , with Al the pictures , I've never seen
such a documented Restoration
greetings
tony