The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: MartyJ on November 29, 2009, 02:01:13 PM
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Hi guys,
Well my FH playfield is a donar as a test for 2k clearing a PF. Hopefully soon (next few weeks) the IPB ones will be ready to ship.
Basically I prepared the playfield as best as I could...Very light scuff with scotchbrite pad to ensure the clear had something to bite into. I had previously cleaned the playfield with shellite and prepsol (to remove wax etc). I gave it its first coat this morning. It went down well except for a few areas which just turned to 'fish eyes'. I suspect because the playfield was never mylared, the years of waxing must have soaked into the paint and contributed to the reaction. Not a big drama, as this is what tests are for. After seeking lots of advice from my spraypainter I'll move onto phase 2 which should eliminate the areas of concern once blocked and resprayed.
Being 2k, P3 mask, tyvek suit, googles and good airflow is a must.
Couple of photos of the 'ok' bits...I will post more during the week and hopefully show the before / afters of the fish-eye areas.
Keep in mind this is straight off the gun and a complete amature controlling it!
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I think it looks great so far Marty !
Are you spraying it at your panel beater's place, or at home ?
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I think it looks great so far Marty !
Are you spraying it at your panel beater's place, or at home ?
AT home. Not the most ideal but its only a very small amount of spraying so fumes / overspray don't go everywhere. The 2k doesn't need to be baked so there is no issues in this weather.
I've only shown the 'ok' bits...The bad fish-eye bits are bad...But once blocked and resprayed should go down a lot better.
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i love that shine
looking good
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Looks good Marty. As for the fish eyes im not sure but with enamel and acrylic paint you can add some anti silon drops to the paint to stop the fish eye effect. I alwasy added this when spraying cars just incase *%*
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I've been told I can add a couple of drops to the next coat of clear but the advice I've had is to block it and put next layer down and I'll see. If it does the same then I'll definately need to get some additive!
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so who sells 2k?
where can i buy a can?
please
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Initial block and second coat applied. The problem areas have improved 100% with second hit. I've purposely sprayed this coat on nice and thick, so after cure and a really good sand I should be close to an almost level surface.
Its hard to judge how I'm going as I've only ever seen after shots of the fantastic work the experts do in the US (ie HEP) and guys with decades of spraying experience. BUT I'm feeling better about the second coat and soon I should be able to start some repairs...
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Thats looking pretty good to me marty. Another thing you can try to stop the fish eyes is a very fine dry coat first. Hold the gun back further than normal and apply a few mist coats this means there isnt enough paint to move around the silicon and the second coat should be touching the silicon. But that looks sweet anyway
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so who sells 2k?
where can i buy a can?
please
You can buy 2k clear from most auto paint supplies. I don't believe its available in a can but I've heard about the 1k clear / paint solutions but don't know how they'll stand up.
I bought just el cheapo 2k clear (2:1), standard hardner & 2k thinners (10%)...I've been lucky to borrow a mates big-arse compressor and his gun which I've been doing the work with. 2K paint is very toxic so P3 mask, tyvek suit and good airflow also a must....
I'm still learning and feeling my way with this. Hoping for a good result which doesn't turn out too amature.
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Thats looking pretty good to me marty. Another thing you can try to stop the fish eyes is a very fine dry coat first. Hold the gun back further than normal and apply a few mist coats this means there isnt enough paint to move around the silicon and the second coat should be touching the silicon. But that looks sweet anyway
Thanks mate...I'm happy having a dip on this playfield and if it turns out good then I may keep it....I don't think I'd have the balls to do it on a good playfield...
I think the theory less is more...I'm not looking for a super thick coat (final that is) but flat is the key. The 2k and hardner is pretty thin on its own....I've been told for extra shine I can use less thinners too.
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Thats right marty less thinners means the paint takes longer to dry and has more time to smooth itself out ^^^
Did you level the playfield before painting? I will unscrew one from the roof for a clearcoat one of these day shit they look good
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The playfield was levelled!....As this one is a thicker coat I think it may take a little longer to dry too!.
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Second pass looks much better Marty. What is the amount of time you waited in between coats ?
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Second pass looks much better Marty. What is the amount of time you waited in between coats ?
Thanks Nino. Getting there slowly. But I must say I am really enjoying the process here. It depends on the clear your're using re flash off time.
Tonight, blocked the previous nights work and laid down the insert decals. They're not perfect but better than nothing.
Next coat went down and the inital problem areas are now non existant #*#.
The shine is great and the actual playfield is well, almost flat. For a complete newbie I'm very pleased with my results tonight. After the next sand I will start to make repairs with the airbrush.
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More.
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Now, my next issue is I need to fill the wear areas of wear through to wood.
I've looked through HEP photos and I'm not sure exactly what he uses. I'm guessing its a fine filler of some description.
Need to source an airbrush tomorrow and paint.
Its a shame about the wear...Would have turned out nice otherwise!....
I would throw in the old saying "you can't polish a turd" but I've seen Mythbusters do it!
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Looks great mate ^^^
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Looks great Marty...well done ^^^ ^^^
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That looks great Marty but you could have atleast sanded the roof trusses out of the playfield before the clear coat went down. %.% Looks like a mirror mate very well done ^^^
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Looks absolutely brilliant, but am I missing something? Why wouldn't you patch before applying clear?
Sorry if I'm a Dubbo - and sorry to anyone in Dubbo %.%
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Looks absolutely brilliant, but am I missing something? Why wouldn't you patch before applying clear?
Sorry if I'm a Dubbo - and sorry to anyone in Dubbo %.%
Not sure what you mean by patch? If its repairing the wear spots then its on purpose!
The theory is - to seal the playfield with clear to protect whats there and to build up the level (as I had removed and redone inserts). Its at the stage now where I'll begin paint touch ups then clear again. I guess I can safely mask and tape up sections without fear of lifting more paint.
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Yep, by patch I mean repair. I had just imagined that one would first do all the repairs, colour touch ups etc and then as the last step apply the clear to level everything and provide a hard protection coat. It was just a thinking out load style of question - by the look of it you are doing a first rate job. I'll keep watching with interest.
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Looks bloody great Marty ^^^
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The repairs have been done and final clear down. I'm hoping to not have to do any more coats.
I can't say I'm 100% happy with the touchups. Its far from a professional job but I'll see once its reassembled and see how I go. The playfield (once 2k set and cured) will be much more playable from what it was and will do the job.
I was hoping if it turned out great to not have to buy a new playfield, but I think I'll get one anyway and keep in storage for a bit. Will post more photos soon.
At least now I know, if I had to reclear a playfield I'd have the confidence to do it. My art skills (ie touchups) still have a long way to go!
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I've kept this separate from my actual FH resto thread as I wasn't sure whether I'd use it or not.
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That looks so good marty when can you spray mine????
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Hehe...You've got more spray painting experience than me...I reckon I'd have a total of about 4 hours behind the gun in total..! !@)
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I think you have done a great job Marty - don't underestimate your skills. That playfield would be an improvement in most of the worn out funhouses I've seen.
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Marty, you've got to be happy with that result!!!!!! Looks bloody awesome in the pics.
I wish I had the skills, time and talent that you guys have got to tackle something like this. I couldn't imagine stripping and re-populating a play field let alone clear it as well. Good stuff mate.
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After looking hard I can see one area that looks touched up?
Overall, a very good result. How fast do these things play when clear-coated?
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Great job Marty, if youre not happy with it you can swap it with my piece of worn out crap.
Looks like a mirror..............so shiny yeh.
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Great job Marty, if youre not happy with it you can swap it with my piece of worn out crap.
Looks like a mirror..............so shiny yeh.
Thanks Dave,
The test will be how it plays. A little bit easier on the eye, but not collector quality.
Although I am happy with the levelling. I think the method I used by building up the clear layers, put down insert decals then clear up again seemed to work. Maybe another coat may have brought it up even closer but I think its right. Although the next shot is not the best - the area around the clock inserts (which were all removed, reglued and levelled) with insert decals is pretty flat.
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Playfield is back inside with side rails on to cure. WIthout the side rails it tends to bow slightly so put them on whilst the clear is still soft.
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I like the way thats come out that much marty ive just set it as my desktop background 10\10
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Great result ^^^