The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Technical Matters => Pinball Repairs / Problems & Assistance => Topic started by: Blktgr74 on May 01, 2013, 06:18:10 PM
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Hi guys can anyone tell me how many rom/ chips are on the DMD board in baywatch? I pick one up today and I'm starting to sort out its issues. Thanks
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Swinks just bought a Baywatch a month ago. Send him a PM if someone else doesn't advise tonight. ^^^
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maybe take a photo of the exact board you are talking about and I can compare tomorrow
some resources here as well
http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=baywatch&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/01/gymuhyru.jpg)thanks. This is all I have on the dmd (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/01/epedudy8.jpg) then for a second you get the full picture I've got 5.01v at the dmd
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I will have a look tomorrow night and take some photos for you to compare against (if I remember).
What are the problems you are having? any information may help with trying to assist.
The large dmd's have a power supply problems so at some stage earlier in the release I learnt that the power issue for the dmd's is solved with a new lead that plugs into a more reliable power source. This part is here:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=baywatch
my machine needs this cable and still need to order, if I move my machine / lift the playfield etc it gets particular and the display drops out
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Thanks for the help. The problems I have at the moment are
1 dmd isn't working properly
2 I have some gi lighting but only two inserts light up
3 can't add a credit as I can't read the dmd to put it into free play
4 no sound just a hum
Well that's all the cons, on the plus side the playfield is near mint, the cab is good and I swapped an em for it that owed me $200. The boards look good and I can't see any burnt connectors. It's a good project and I'm looking forward to having a game. Any help would be great.
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I haven't had mine for long and haven't had time to service it but just been collecting parts for mine.
I reckon the power lead for the dmd is high chance of being the issue and the part is a cheap item, common with the large dmds so i have red. Once you solve that one, you can do tests and determine some other issues.
It is a fun game and a challenge
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don't know if any one has answered this but the bay watch display driver board has 2 roms.
and the ones in the photo are in the correct places
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don't know if any one has answered this but the bay watch display driver board has 2 roms.
and the ones in the photo are in the correct places
thanks that is good news. Now I will have to start looking elsewhere to see if I can sort this out.
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Well I've been poking around and I'm still no closer to any fixes. I've changed the ribbon cable and have no blown fueses. Voltages are all good as well. Can anyone suggest somewhere else that I can look. Thanks
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if you haven't checked this out try this to assist you in identifying some issues
http://smiley.tzo.com/pinball/backups/dataeast_repair_guide-index3.htm
mentions the gabbled display line and the sound issue ?????
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Is the machine actually booting up?
You mentioned only a couple of play field lamps working, are they insert lamps or just G.I?
And if they are insert lamps are they flashing or staying on peremantly ?
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It boots up fine with no errors on the LEDs on the board. I have Gi lights and only 2 insert lights that just stay on. I've checked all fuese and reseated all connectors unsure where to look now
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Just went and switched it on and everything worked I could add credits and all lights worked then it "flicked" and I'm back to where I started. So I'm happy that it must be an "easy" fix but I still have no idea where to look any help is really appreciated thanks
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I still believe some of the issue is the power supply lead from the dmd to the power board, loose or worn out pins in the plug
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I'm thinking its got something to do with the bridge rectifier on the power board. If this was faulty would it cause these problems? The dmd could well be a separate problem so I'd like to get it playing first and deal with the dmd after that.
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You need to check that you have a steady +5 volts to your CPU board.
The voltage may be dropping off after it boots.
The bridge on the power supply board is for the +5 volts
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How did you go on this issue as now I have a sudden issue which appears to be very similar.
1. was playing a game today and all fine
2. played a second game and the sound effects were not there but kept getting the Hoff saying we will be right back constantly through the game so something wasn't right
3. turned it off and waited a minute then turned it back on and had all lights, but no dmd, no sound sequence, ball check and no boot up
4. blew the F8 fuse on the Playfield Power Board (PPB) which is a 4amp which looks after the 50volt supply to the coils
5. replaced the fuse and turned on and nothing, went to pull out the multi meter and dead batteries and broke the fuse remover so can check if I popped another one.
I am still waiting on one part and then was going to do a shop out of the playfield as some of the flipper coils do not have a diode and wrong coils amongst a bunch of other switch tidy ups etc - could this missing diode be the cause????
anyone have any glues / advice.....
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can't adjust last post so here is a slightly clearer one
I had a sudden issue today while playing my Baywatch which I haven't had for long so still working what needs some changes.
1. was playing a game today and all fine, and played a second game and made it to a new video mode where you had to make your character run along the beach by hitting the flipper buttons really fast.
2. played a third game and the sound effects were not there but kept getting the Hoff saying "we will be right back" constantly through the game so something wasn't right
3. turned it off and waited a minute then turned it back on and had all lights, but no dmd, no sound sequence, no ball check and no boot up
4. lifted the dmd board out and noticed that the F8 fuse blew on the Playfield Power Board (PPB) which is a 4amp which looks after the 50volt supply to the coils
5. replaced the fuse and turned on and nothing, went to pull out the fuse to check and broke the fuse puller and the multi meter had dead batteries - so can't check now until tomorrow as night time now.
I am still waiting on one part (dmd power supply cable) as when I first got the machine it was resetting so suspect the cable etc is a issue not getting the proper 5v. Once I get all the parts I was going to do a shop out of the playfield as some of the flipper coils do not have a diode and incorrect flipper coils amongst a bunch of other switch tidy ups (change out the washing up sponge) etc
could this missing diode on the flipper coils be the cause???? or the rapid flipper activating
anyone have any glues, any advice would be much appreciated
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check the +5v at the cpu board and power supply.
the missing diode could be causing some dramas
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Now that I've finished moving and the pins are set back up ill start looking at baywatch again. The first thing I'm doing is getting a new power supply board as the one I have is missing a rectifier and has tracks lifting off of the board. I'd rather put in a new board and know that I can forget about it. I will post my results once the board gets here.
Hope you get yours sorted I will watch to see how you get on.
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Small update. I got the new power supply board in today and have all the lights. But now the dmd is completely dead. I've replaced the ribbon cable and that hasn't helped. Even thought the dmd is dead I thought that it would still play, it excepts coins but won't start? Any ideas?
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check my thread to see it any of my steps through my little dilemma helps
- on mine if I disconnected the CN5 plug the game would start up and play the intro just no power to the dmd. If the batteries have been renewed the game will automatically go into a coin start, not a free start so the start button will give a funny ping noise - so may need to open the door and hit the coin switch to put up a credit. But on mine with the CN5 plug not connected you would get the hoff intro etc.
- while the plug is still disconnected check to see if there is the 5 volts at the test point as just to prove the new board is doing it's thing.
- For me because I had intro music but stupid me had the CN5 plug connected upside down the dmd won't work and you get no music, and no light attract mode - so in effect if the dmd is no good or not powered up correctly but connected you won't get any action.
- I got one of those kit dmd leads from pinballlife and sent with the board to Beaky and he said it was poorly pressed in meaning no volts to the dmd - so check that but also check existing power supply cables as well to the dmd.
- check the bridge rectifier 3 and associated fuses in this zone
get back with any findings and we will try to help
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Thanks mate ill go and have a play after got to try and find the multi meter and soldering iron they are still packed in a box somewhere from when we moved
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Ok little update. When I turn it on it is as if the game has lost a ball then after about 10 seconds it spits a ball out the ball drains all lights come on but I can't start a game. Any ideas?
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has it got 5 balls in it
I started stripping mine today for a shop out and it actually had 6 balls in, with one ball dislodged under the apron on the left side
It is a funny ball supply setup with the balls going into the life guard tower feed into a red plastic subway that drains down to the apron on the left side then ejects up under the apron just right of the ball saver mech to where the ball would drain in the centre - mine had a ball lodged in around the ball save mech - so someone must have lifted the playfield and it would have went into a ball search.
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Yes it has 5 balls in it. One of the ball return switches was broken so I replaced it as I thought that this was causing the problem. It looks like it wants to go
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how did the dmd go, is it working now, as then you can determine switches etc
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No go with the dmd yet. Found the multimeter but missing the negative wire since the move so can't test anything. Time to stop being half assed about fixing this pin.
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Don't know why but I'm getting 10.2v at the 5v plug to the dmd? Any ideas ?
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Don't know why but I'm getting 10.2v at the 5v plug to the dmd? Any ideas ?
is that at the dmd driver board that sits behind the display or the dmd itself?
also do a voltage test across the 5v and gnd test points on the power supply
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Don't know why but I'm getting 10.2v at the 5v plug to the dmd? Any ideas ?
is that at the dmd driver board that sits behind the display or the dmd itself?
also do a voltage test across the 5v and gnd test points on the power supply
Yes at the 5v plug at the dmd. Getting 10.2 at the test point on the board @5v and 22.7 @ the 12v point?
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if you want me to check on mine, post a few photos of where you are testing and I can do those and post here tomorrow
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/24/byzubuma.jpg)plug to dmd driver
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/24/a6umydys.jpg)5v test point
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/24/anyjazy8.jpg)12v test point
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Sounds like the power supply to the power board is incorrect, I think the bridge rectifier no 3 supplies power may need to be tested.
The photos helped and I know that I was getting 5.2 at the 5v test point and about 12.5 at 12v test point.
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Sounds like the power supply to the power board is incorrect, I think the bridge rectifier no 3 supplies power may need to be tested.
The photos helped and I know that I was getting 5.2 at the 5v test point and about 12.5 at 12v test point.
where can I get one of those bridge rectifiers? Does the rectifier need to be earthed to the backbox as mine is just hanging there. Might be a clue as to it playing up in the past? Thanks for your help I'd really like to try and nut this out.
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Jaycar has the bridge rectifier for about $5, will look up the part number tomorrow morning and check the schematics, but if beaky chimes in I am sure he could identify the issue.
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the DB1 bridge is like the one in the attachment, also refer to the schematic of the specs
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I am not 100% sure what the bridge for BR1,2 and 3 is but probably is the same as DB! but maybe contact Beaky to check.
see below for the identification of the different parts and what they do
the frankenstein schematics are pretty much the same as the baywatch just these had clearer detail
also check the link for testing a bridge rectifier to determine if there is a short or not
utoplay=1&rel=0
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you should have it screwed to the back box not just floating,
i am pretty sure you have the multi meter set to the wrong position.
does the symbol where you have the multimeter set to look like this
(http://www.ladyada.net/images/metertutorial/masdcvoltage.jpg)
i might be mistaken but from what i can make out you have it set to AC.
forgive me if i am wrong but it looks like the range you have it set to only has 2 selections which is usually the AC range
(http://pedalpowergenerator.com/images/ac-dc-meter-symbols.jpg)
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you should have it screwed to the back box not just floating,
i am pretty sure you have the multi meter set to the wrong position.
does the symbol where you have the multimeter set to look like this
(http://www.ladyada.net/images/metertutorial/masdcvoltage.jpg)
i might be mistaken but from what i can make out you have it set to AC.
forgive me if i am wrong but it looks like the range you have it set to only has 2 selections which is usually the AC range
(http://pedalpowergenerator.com/images/ac-dc-meter-symbols.jpg)
yes you are right ill recheck tonight when I finish work. Thanks
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no problems ^^^
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Ok well after feeling like a knob for having the multimeter on ac I've retested the board and have 5.0v @ the 5v point & 4.9 @ the dmd & only 10.2 @ the 12v point. I've changed the bridge rectifier #3 and have the same readings. I have noticed that the fuse holder f5 looks a bit corroded so ill change that over next. Any other ideas? Where else should I check/test ? Thanks guys
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10.2 is a little low.
check what voltage you have at the capacitor marked "for BR3 display" you should have around 12V
check what voltage you have at J4 red on pin 3, black on pin5 (Where there are no pins just solder pads) on you dmd driver board, you shouls have 5V. if you do have 5V This test will prove that the 5 volt connection at J1 is good an the dmd driver board is getting voltage to it.
Since you have had the machine have you ever had the dmd working properly?
If not then there may be a problem with the dmd or the dmd driver board.
If the machine boots and runs in attract mode, you have replaced the ribbon cables and ensured they are fitted correctly plus you have 12v at the dmd and 5 volts at the dmd driver board then you will need to test the dmd driver and dmd in another machine to work out which part has the fault
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needed to edit the first line but ran out of time again ^&^
10.2 is a little low. is that at the 12V test point on the power supply?
this is not the same 12V that the dmd uses, it uses the 12v from BR3
check what voltage you have at the capacitor marked "for BR3 display" and at BR3 you should have around 12V
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Ok well after feeling like a knob for having the multimeter on ac I've retested the board and have 5.0v @ the 5v point & 4.9 @ the dmd & only 10.2 @ the 12v point. I've changed the bridge rectifier #3 and have the same readings. I have noticed that the fuse holder f5 looks a bit corroded so ill change that over next. Any other ideas? Where else should I check/test ? Thanks guys
don't worry it must be a baywatch thing I had a plug flipped and it didn't work so I felt the same, at least we learn something from it.
Check the fuse holders as well as Beaky found a cracked one on the power board so can play a small effect. Check the fuse holder near the BR3 as well that is linked to the display.
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Now I've got 4.9v @ the driver board and 5.0 @ the dmd.
The pin has never worked since I've owned it. Got to love projects. The 10.2v was @ the 12v test point on the psu.
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does the cpu still boot and do you still get the attract mode (insert lights turning on and off) or is the whole thing still dead?
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make sure to disconnect the display of it's 2 power leads to determine a start up and attract mode, sometimes if the display has a issue it will stop the machine going into a attract mode.
1. disconnect the power supply leads to display board and display and do a start up
2. try again with the leads plugged in
3. do step 3 but disconnect the ribbon cables from the display board and display
just try to determine if a weird issue and where it maybe
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does the cpu still boot and do you still get the attract mode (insert lights turning on and off) or is the whole thing still dead?
yes the CPU boots I have the correct led lights on the board and it goes into attract mode. With the old psu I wasn't getting attract mode just gi. I can enter the test/service mode but I'm blind due to no dmd. But with the old psu the dmd showed signs of life and once last night when I switched the game off the dmd flashed on for a second? I really don't want to give up on the dmd till I can get the voltages correct. Is the plug that goes to the dmd (the one with 4 wires) supposed to have 12v? As I've only got 5.0v and 4.9 @ the driver board.
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either tonight or tomorrow I will measure those voltages for you at the plugs with some photos to aid
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Changed db1 and now have a good 5v everywhere. But now have only 18.6v to the dmd where I need 24v. I've replaced br3 and have 18.6 there too. Thank you Breaky and swinks for all your help even though I've done things ass about I feel that I am getting there and with out you guys I'd be screwed.
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Could the big rhs blue capacitor come into play for the voltage that is needed, have to check the wiring later to trace it again
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Could the big rhs blue capacitor come into play for the voltage that is needed, have to check the wiring later to trace it again
thanks mate
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yes the plug going to the dmd should have 12 and 5
not all the dmds use the 5 volt but all use the 12v
the 2 center wires are GND and the out side wires are 12v and 5v
so black multi meter wire to one of the centre and red M meter wire to one of the out side wires will give you 5 or 12v dc
you should have 12v at BR3 and the cap for BR3 (as i have asked you to check before)
this is where the dmd gets it's 12v from
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Got 18v @ the cap for br3 and holds 18v all the way to the dmd. Don't I need 24v at the dmd?
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Got 18v @ the cap for br3 and holds 18v all the way to the dmd. Don't I need 24v at the dmd?
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Got 18v @ the cap for br3 and holds 18v all the way to the dmd. Don't I need 24v at the dmd?
No - 18volts on mine
was able to get some readings and photos so check wire placement just in case
photo 1 - BW display plugs
lhs plug is the dmd board which is a 5 volt supply
rhs plug is the dmd - red and black with red strip is 5 volt, black and blue is 18volt
photo 2 - BW Display lead
is the lead coming from the display rhs plug (note one wire changes colour - blue becomes a purple)
photo 3 - BW Display lead to BR3
other side of plug from photo 2, note the purple change
Note both black and black with red stripe are earths
photo 4 - BW BR3 and capacitor ?
a red and black from the display through the lead goes to the power supply board
a purple and black from the display through the leads goes to the BR3 and then another set of wires the same colour from the same connections go to the rhs blue capacitor - which measures 18volts
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Ok thanks then I have the same voltages on my machine. Time to fine a baywatch locally and test the dmd.
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where are you located at
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I'm in Adelaide. I know of a guy that has one locally just got to wait till he gets back from Melbourne.
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thanks for giving him the voltages swinks.
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Well it's taken a while but ive gotten dome results. I borrowed a dmd and my dmd is dead as is the dmd driver board. I also have multiple switches out but ill sort that once I get a new dmd. Thanks to all the guys that offered help especially swinks and beaky. At least I know that my voltages are all good for the new dmd.
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good and bad news
glad you worked it out, beaky maybe able to help with the board and dmd so check with him first before spending big dollars
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Finally got to put the dmd in this morning and it works a treat. Beaky you are a champ. Top work and if and when I have more board troubles you will be my first port of call cant thank you enough.
Now all I have to do is solve the switch matrix problem and I should be able to have a game.
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Finally got to put the dmd in this morning and it works a treat. Beaky you are a champ. Top work and if and when I have more board troubles you will be my first port of call cant thank you enough.
Now all I have to do is solve the switch matrix problem and I should be able to have a game.
#*# #*# #*# great to hear and good on you beaky ^^^
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Finally got to put the dmd in this morning and it works a treat. Beaky you are a champ. Top work and if and when I have more board troubles you will be my first port of call cant thank you enough.
Now all I have to do is solve the switch matrix problem and I should be able to have a game.
No problem,
glad it's all sorted
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Ok well the dmd is awsome now onto the next problem. In the switch test I have everything but the start, launch, flippers and it says im missing 4 balls ive checked all fuses by removing them and buzzing them with the multi meter. Any ideas where I should look next? Thanks
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great to hear about the dmd,
when I did my shop out of baywatch I took photos of everything but didn't take notice of particular alignment. The photo attached shows the removal of the ball advance which lets one ball at a time into the vuk that shots the ball up for the plunger. It has a tiny bit of play which I didn't take notice of and if not placed in the exact location means it will hold all the balls off their ball trough switches. Try adjusting with the switch diagnoses up on the dmd as then you can see when all the switches are on or off. You might not have taken it off but maybe the previous guy did something here.
Hope it helps
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Ok well the dmd is awsome now onto the next problem. In the switch test I have everything but the start, launch, flippers and it says im missing 4 balls ive checked all fuses by removing them and buzzing them with the multi meter. Any ideas where I should look next? Thanks
also just thought with the Plunger Button, if you hit the plunger button hard as kids do a few times it push the switch off the button mounting, maybe the Start is similar - try checking the back inside the cabinet.
Are you progressing and solving?
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Im struggling for time as we have been very busy with the new shop and I picked up last action hero last week so every time I go into the shed I get stuck playing it. The buttons appear to be clicking on the micro switchs fine and all the balls seem to be engaged on thier switchs. Could it be possible that all the switches that aren't working are all part of one line of the switch matrix?
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Well I can now start a game of baywatch however I still have a couple of issues to sort out. First issue is the flippers are continually registering even though the coils aren't energized which makes it very difficult to navigate the menu's. Second issue is the game starts and goes through the dmd animation till it gets to a point where the sun is on the display the it freezes im assuming that at this point the game should kick out a ball but this doesn't happen. Anyone have any ideas would love to get this game playing finally. Thanks
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Well I can now start a game of baywatch however I still have a couple of issues to sort out. First issue is the flippers are continually registering even though the coils aren't energized which makes it very difficult to navigate the menu's. Second issue is the game starts and goes through the dmd animation till it gets to a point where the sun is on the display the it freezes im assuming that at this point the game should kick out a ball but this doesn't happen. Anyone have any ideas would love to get this game playing finally. Thanks
watch my vid to see what happens when the sun comes - a ball is ejected out. There could be a few issues with either the ball trough switches (do a switch test) and then do a test on both coils for the ball advance to the vuk coil that shoots the ball to the shooter lane
as for the flippers, sorry I can't help you on that one - apart from checking the flipper boards that are on the bottom lhs side of the cabinet as certain fuse holders on these boards are known to be hacked / cracked. I had a issue and needed a fuse holder bracket from beaky to solve.
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Im kind of struggling to do any test because the flippers scroll through the menu's so fast. Ive checked the flipper switches wnd they are open. Ill have to check out the flipper boards once I get home.