The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Technical Matters => Pinball Repairs / Problems & Assistance => Topic started by: solar value on November 18, 2013, 03:49:58 PM
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Hi All,
I have a Haunted House that was imported from the US, what do I need to do to get it ready to run on our power?
I haven't been able to find any information about this anywhere.
Thanks.
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(http://www.homepin.com/pics/gottmains.jpg)
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Thanks Homepin, super quick response. I have located that page in the manual.
So...there's two transformers, OK :tumble:. I'm guessing that the box with the dotted line around it marked "230 VAC OPERATION PRIMARY WINDING" is where the money is at. That diagram is a representation of the two transformers side by side, right?
If anyone has a picture showing the wiring of the two transformers in their machine that would be most helpful.
I see that I also need to change the primary fuse to a 2.5A slow blow.
Does anything need to happen with the line filter?
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You need to modify the connections to the two transformers as shown in the dotted box, "230 VAC OPERATION PRIMARY WINDING".
From the ON/OFF switch to the 115VAC winding of the top transformer as drawn.
Then the wire leaving the COMMON terminal of the top transformer is disconnected from the other wires it is connected to and label it "1", as an example.
Also disconnect the wire from the 115V AC terminal of the lower transformer and label that wire "2".
Now connect wire "1" (which is only connected to the common terminal of the upper transformer) to the 115V terminal of the lower transformer.
If possible remove the wire labelled "2" completely without disturbing any other connections. Or install a insulated wire terminal (blue point connector or similar) to avoid a live wire in your cabinet.
Doing this effectively puts the two transformer primary windings in a series circuit, allowing 240V (230) AC operation.
DON'T FORGET TO HAVE THE GAME SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED BEFORE DOING THIS CONVERSION.
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Pinballer, thanks very much.
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OK, I have just got around to doing something about this, but I'm finding it hard to access the transformer board, it's way up the back of the machine.
What's the easiest way to perform the conversion? Do I need to try to remove the transformer board from the machine? Seems like I'd have to disconnect a lot of stuff to do so. Or should I move it down to the front of the cabinet and work from there? Or maybe just leave the board where it is and get used to confined spaces? I guess I could take both playfields out, that may make it easier.
Any advice?
Thanks, SV.
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Here is a screenshot from the repair guides
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Hi All,
I have finally got around to doing this conversion on my Black Hole. I have changed the transformer wiring and will replace the plug. Is that all I need to do to convert it to 240V? I am wondering if the line filter needs changing.
Thanks, SV
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Hi All,
I have finally got around to doing this conversion on my Black Hole. I have changed the transformer wiring and will replace the plug. Is that all I need to do to convert it to 240V? I am wondering if the line filter needs changing.
Thanks, SV
Given the game has been operating on 110V all it's life, I would suggest it definitely needs replacement. You will also need a 275V Varistor (Jaycar) across the input of the EMI Filter.
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Given the game has been operating on 110V all it's life, I would suggest it definitely needs replacement. You will also need a 275V Varistor (Jaycar) across the input of the EMI Filter.
Thanks Nino, where can I get a new filter?
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John @ http://www.johns-arcade.com/ has the full kit for sale.
John is very easy to deal with and great prices too.
He also stocks all the Homepin replacement boards
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Given the game has been operating on 110V all it's life, I would suggest it definitely needs replacement. You will also need a 275V Varistor (Jaycar) across the input of the EMI Filter.
Thanks Nino, where can I get a new filter?
you can buy plastic ones from jaycar - although I would not use them. I use the EMI Filters from Rockby - they are the best on the market ;
https://www.rockby.com.au/SearchresSql_12.cfm?Searchkey=emi+filter (https://www.rockby.com.au/SearchresSql_12.cfm?Searchkey=emi+filter)
YC10T1L2 is the one I use, although when low on stock, they sell the 15A or 20A for the same price.
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Digging up this old thread because I need to replace a line filter on another System 80 game. Looking at the filters from Rockby, the 20A one is cheaper than the 10A. Is the 20A better?
Should I also add a MOV and a thermistor to the game? It didn't have one originally. Has anyone done this? If so, please post a pic.
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Digging up this old thread because I need to replace a line filter on another System 80 game. Looking at the filters from Rockby, the 20A one is cheaper than the 10A. Is the 20A better?
Should I also add a MOV and a thermistor to the game? It didn't have one originally. Has anyone done this? If so, please post a pic.
Don't need a thermistor, although a MOV is a good idea. 20A will be fine. They probably have more 20A produced, hence the low price.
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Mine is brown too....but like you it still has what they put in at the factory. lol