The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Technical Matters => Pinball Repairs / Problems & Assistance => Topic started by: turbo27 on May 05, 2014, 01:03:24 PM
-
How do I dis-assemble?
3 bolts holding the gun assembly together, look like torx screw heads, but with a raised pin in the middle. I'm guessing factory fitted to prevent un authorised repairs!
Is there a special tool, or do a drill the pin out, and then insert a torx bit.
Thanks in advance
-
Supercheap Auto have sets of security torx bits to undo those screws.
-
Thanks boots
-
Needle nose pliers in a pinch.
-
I actually ground down an old screw driver on the bench grinder, and was able to 'jam' it in the gap.
Saved myself at least 20 bucks I reckon :D
-
Was the switch inside faulty?
Have you thought about getting it plated/powdercoated/repainted whilst you have it apart? ^^^
-
I've started a full cabinet restore and decals.
Was actually going to ask, from pictures the gun seems to be finished anything from black, chrome or gold.
I think I'll stick with the black sprayed finish, as I can do it myself and save a few $.
Most likely gloss black with a clear finish.
Any suggestions appreciated
-
If you go genuine gold plate, you will be looking at $150+.
Chrome with mirror polishing will be about $100 since it has an intricate design with lots of grooves/crevices that will need to be polished with a mini buffing tool.
I went the powdercoat option in gunmetal black as it looks more like a real gun. About $50.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll153/pinball1974/Indiana%20Jones%20restoration/dd5e83b3-ebce-47e4-bac5-6a05d5a3d95d_zps33e6cdf2.jpg)
I can get the reference number from the powdercoat colour chart if you want to go that way. ^^^
Like you said, painting would be less cost still as a DIY.
-
Looks fantastic!
Working on a pretty tight budget, so will try the diy first. Can always go the powder coat if I don't like it.
Did just find this picture. I think I like the brown(wood look) grip!
-
^Like the look of that. ()
The colour contrast looks great.
-
Sorry to jump in on your thread Turbo but on a similar subject as I am also looking at restoring an IJ. Pinsanity, What's the finish on the side rails and legs on your machine in the picture and a colour of that gun handle would be super helpful for me too.
-
Hello mate,
My side rails and legs were chromed.
Side rails cleaned up nicely with Brasso and elbow grease.
Legs were a mess and really thought I would have to buy new. But from advice on the site, used rust converter, wire brush and a polishing disc on my drill and the difference is huge. Finished off with more Brasso and elbow grease.
Ok they are not new but wow I'm really happy with the result.
The gun I'm going to try painting my self and like the pic with the black and brown handle. See how I go.
The cabinet is stripped and filled and waiting for better weather to prime and fill before spraying black.
Cheers Trent
-
Thanks Trent, I will be interested to see your gun turns out.
Cheers Dan
-
24k gold plated on the siderails and lockdown bar. L/down bar has been cleared for protection.
Mirror polished brass for the legs and leg bolts from MrPinball.
Gun handle - Interpon powdercoat range - I'll need to dig out the colour chart for the code and will update the thread.
Cheers.
-
Cheers Pinsanity, It does looks nice ^^^. Not sure if I could afford gold plating though !!!. Do the brass plated legs hold there shin well or do they require regular polishing? I was thinking of doing brass plating on the legs, lockdown bar, side rails and playfield wire forms on mine.
-
Honestly, you would be hard up to tell the difference between gold and brass plating when they are both polished like that. It is not much more than acting as a selling point to say yes it is genuine gold plated, but that seems to be what the market wants (something to differentiate over and above the standard).
The only major difference is that pure 24k has a slightly more yellow colour to it. Once you introduce "impurities" to strengthen the gold and bring it down to say 22k or 18k it looks exactly the same as brass so I would just go with brass.
RE: The legs
A soft cloth with Brasso every once in a while takes care of any dullness, but generally they hold up well.
-
Honestly, you would be hard up to tell the difference between gold and brass plating when they are both polished like that. It is not much more than acting as a selling point to say yes it is genuine gold plated, but that seems to be what the market wants (something to differentiate over and above the standard).
The only major difference is that pure 24k has a slightly more yellow colour to it. Once you introduce "impurities" to strengthen the gold and bring it down to say 22k or 18k it looks exactly the same as brass so I would just go with brass.
RE: The legs
A soft cloth with Brasso every once in a while takes care of any dullness, but generally they hold up well.
Brass would have to be clear coated otherwise it very quickly starts to tarnish and darken.
When you clear coat brass it does go a slightly darker colour.
I have had several plaques gold plated but at one stage I was just polishing the brass and clearcoating it, the gold looks 100% brighter and overall better product because no clearcoat is required.
Two drawbacks to gold:
1. The price has gone up over the last couple of years.
2. It is soft and will wear off with time
-
Thanks for the advise guys. Gives me something to think about.
-
Am considering restoring my IJ cabinet also, just need to get a block of time free from the wife and kids!
Does anyone know a good powder coated in Melbourne? Am thinking of doing the legs, side rails and lockdown bar...orange.
-
I've started a full cabinet restore and decals.
Was actually going to ask, from pictures the gun seems to be finished anything from black, chrome or gold.
By the way, how did you go getting the rails off? Putty knife and hair dryer? Damage them or able to re use?
-
By the way, how did you go getting the rails off? Putty knife and hair dryer? Damage them or able to re use?
I used a heat gun and a stanley knife with the long blade on another machine. Cleaned them up, regrained them and reused them.
-
75mm wide flat paint scraper and heat gun.
Put a cloth between the cabinet and the scraper for protection if you are keeping the original cab art.
Then just heat up the paint scraper/siderail whilst pushing upwards against the lower section of the rail.
You will know it is hot enough as the scraper will drive upwards and cut through the siderail adhesive like a hot knife through butter.