The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: pinball god on October 23, 2014, 08:22:22 PM
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is it ok to use something like clear in spray cans from bunnings for vinyl decals you can get for pinball aprons? I am about to put on a space invaders decal and am thinking of a simple clear job than going the full bore stuff people use on playfields etc. Will it look good or average if applicable?
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Rob,
I've had great success with 2k clear over apron decals.
To be honest I suspect the bunnings 1k stuff may react. Generally there is extra decal - the same material just outside of the decal. If that makes sense.
Maybe trim a bit of the spare stuff off and spend $6.00 on a can and give it a whirl.
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Good question Rob, I'd just make sure that the clear doesn't make the printing run on the vinyl.
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Rob,
I've had great success with 2k clear over apron decals.
To be honest I suspect the bunnings 1k stuff may react. Generally there is extra decal - the same material just outside of the decal. If that makes sense.
Maybe trim a bit of the spare stuff off and spend $6.00 on a can and give it a whirl.
think I'll give that a try thank Marty and see what happens. Gotta admit this classic arcade decal is pretty ordinary in respect to keeping things authentic. The colours and font seem quite off. I would expect better from a licenced product. I did a water decal that was much better but couldn't do an A3 print and the decal material seemed thicker than what I expected. Hence trying this now. If this works ok, my next move is doing the scan and getting an embryon decal made locally. At least the fonts will be true and hopefully the colours
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Ahh OK.
Knowing where its come from - if its a laminated decal (ie looks shiny already) then I have used one of theirs and it reacted really badly with the 2k clear and fried up like an egg on a hotplate.
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Ahh OK.
Knowing where its come from - if its a laminated decal (ie looks shiny already) then I have used one of theirs and it reacted really badly with the 2k clear and fried up like an egg on a hotplate.
it actually looks more satin finish nothing like mr pin. Also there is no overprint to speak of. Looks like they removed any overprint and just left the white backing. So looks like a test sample may be a no go except for the shooter lane decal. I am very happy with my waterslide shooter decal so could maybe try the test on theirs as the colour looks really off.
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Have you reaprayed the apron? If so what paint did u use? Spray can? If so, that's probably enamel. Use some PrepSol over the apron to clean then use the same brand clear.
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Have you reaprayed the apron? If so what paint did u use? Spray can? If so, that's probably enamel. Use some PrepSol over the apron to clean then use the same brand clear.
repco acrylic lacquer satin black and same brand primers, cleaners and even spray putty. Hope that helps with any additional advice
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Yea dude, just use acrylic clear. 5 coats clear, sand back two layers approx then buff. Should look awesome
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Yea dude, just use acrylic clear. 5 coats clear, sand back two layers approx then buff. Should look awesome
ummmm what do you mean? Apply two coats and sand and then another two?????? Also what grit etc? Thanks a million
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Apply 5 coats or there abouts and let it cure for about a week
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Then sand with 800, 1200, 1500 then buff with a cutting compound and she'll be right! Or just leave the clear coat as is if you don't mind the ripple or orange peel effect
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Thanks mate will give this a try. I'm guessing light coats.
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Thanks mate will give this a try. I'm guessing light coats.
Yep, not too light tho
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I've used Krylon triple Thick on Pinballrescue decals without an issue. First coat must be a mist coat and then three full coats. i like to use a strip of mylar where the ball impacts and rolls down the outlanes so it will never wear out.
I've been thinking of powdercoating the classic aprons. They were originally painted, but powdercoating might be more durable ?
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I'm trying to work out a better way of doing the artwork. Wondering whether some kind of stencilling will work. Problem is the fine typing parts.
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Here are some shots of the apron decal work. I also wanted to highlight how a licensed product really does not stack up to expectations. I actually think my home made job looked better colour and sizing matching wise to the bought US product. I didn't spend eons with the artwork so I reckon the repro should be heaps better.
The shooter gauge is the repro left, original middle and my water decal one on the right.
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Here are some shots of the apron. The repro is the pinky coloured one below the original. It also required a bit of cutting to make it fit.
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Here are some shots of the apron decal work. I also wanted to highlight how a licensed product really does not stack up to expectations. I actually think my home made job looked better colour and sizing matching wise to the bought US product. I didn't spend eons with the artwork so I reckon the repro should be heaps better.
Nice work on the shooter gauge decal. There is some poor quality reproduction stuff out there.
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Yep... no attention to detail, they are way off the originals.
Is this the PPS stuff?
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Yep... no attention to detail, they are way off the originals.
Is this the PPS stuff?
no classic arcade
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Rob,
I've had great success with 2k clear over apron decals.
To be honest I suspect the bunnings 1k stuff may react. Generally there is extra decal - the same material just outside of the decal. If that makes sense.
Maybe trim a bit of the spare stuff off and spend $6.00 on a can and give it a whirl.
think I'll give that a try thank Marty and see what happens. Gotta admit this classic arcade decal is pretty ordinary in respect to keeping things authentic. The colours and font seem quite off. I would expect better from a licenced product. I did a water decal that was much better but couldn't do an A3 print and the decal material seemed thicker than what I expected. Hence trying this now. If this works ok, my next move is doing the scan and getting an embryon decal made locally. At least the fonts will be true and hopefully the colours
Hi Rob
Haven't forget about the Embryon apron art - will get it done this week if you still need it. (Have been on a pinball free couple of months)
Your shooter decal looks good - why not do the apron in a waterslide decal (decals are a lot thinner than vinyl)
The left and right side stripe will fit on A4 - have the join where they meet at the centre.
I don't bother sealing the apron - The apron is pretty well protected when the glass is on.
http://www.pinballaustralia.com/waterslide.htm
Millsy
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Rob,
I've had great success with 2k clear over apron decals.
To be honest I suspect the bunnings 1k stuff may react. Generally there is extra decal - the same material just outside of the decal. If that makes sense.
Maybe trim a bit of the spare stuff off and spend $6.00 on a can and give it a whirl.
think I'll give that a try thank Marty and see what happens. Gotta admit this classic arcade decal is pretty ordinary in respect to keeping things authentic. The colours and font seem quite off. I would expect better from a licenced product. I did a water decal that was much better but couldn't do an A3 print and the decal material seemed thicker than what I expected. Hence trying this now. If this works ok, my next move is doing the scan and getting an embryon decal made locally. At least the fonts will be true and hopefully the colours
Hi Rob
Haven't forget about the Embryon apron art - will get it done this week if you still need it. (Have been on a pinball free couple of months)
Your shooter decal looks good - why not do the apron in a waterslide decal (decals are a lot thinner than vinyl)
The left and right side stripe will fit on A4 - have the join where they meet at the centre.
I don't bother sealing the apron - The apron is pretty well protected when the glass is on.
http://www.pinballaustralia.com/waterslide.htm
Millsy
no worries Milsy, be interested to see the water slide decals you buy. Maybe the ones I got were thicker and not as nice. I was expecting a bit like the ones you get with model airplane kits.