The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Technical Matters => Pinball Repairs / Problems & Assistance => Topic started by: infinite1977 on June 04, 2009, 07:44:10 PM
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Hey guys, I having some issues with the sound on my Getaway machine. The volume acts very eratically. After you finish a game and then push the start button for a new one, the volume cranks all the way up. When you try and turn it down, it goes almost to the maimum level then goes down. Once it is down and you begin tp play a game, it then will either go up or down while you are playing.
Is there anything I can check. I have set it to manual overide in the settings so I can have it a little lower at times. I tried putting back to factory settings but no change.
Please help.
P.S Just my got my new HS today of 350 million. Thanks to Nino and Mark again for fixing that ramp issue.
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Hmm,
This could be related to a couple of things (don't you just love pins!)....All good fun.
Can you do me a favour and go into the test menu and select switch levels and report back (T.2 on the menu).
If you can actually get this far, then it may just be a ground issue on the door (loose bolt or screw).
I had an issue with the switches on the door, but we won't go down that path just yet.
There are a couple of connectors which could also be at fault which we will get you to reseat as well, but one thing at a time.
If you get stuck I'll take some photos for you.
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Yeah, I have gone to switch levels and it just cycles through as per normal I think.
Next.
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Hmmm, check the volume pot first (assuming you have one) - older ones of these can tend to be a bit like what you describe.
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Excuse my ignorance. Where would the volume pot be, and what am I looking for eactly? Just check the connections?
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When the volume goes up and down during a game. Does the dmd reflect the change?. I mean, does it show the volume level as it's adjusting itself?. If that is the case, i'd assume one of the 2 volume switches inside the coin door could be sticky.
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Yeah, I have gone to switch levels and it just cycles through as per normal I think.
Next.
OK, this is promising. When one of the IC's on my CPU board went, it constantly cycled through all menu options.
As long as none of the direct switches (ones on coin door) are reporting as open then this is OK. Press each one of them and see if it registers (in switch Edges test). Most likely when you get to the vol up / vol down, it may stick on, or not work at all.
With machine turned OFF and UNPLUGGED at wall, raise playfield (maybe get someone to hold for you, or lock back in upright position if you're OK with this). On the lower left corner (towards coin door) you'll see where the loom from the coin door plugs into a small PCB. Firstly check that it is plugged in correctly and flat (if this makes sense). If it is, gently remove plug and put back on (reseat) a few times. From memory the coin door (and direct switches) do not run through the switch matrix.
If reseating the plug (near coin door in cab) then you'll have to carefully remove backglass and check connector J205 on the CPU board. This plug may need reseating as well. If this does not work, disconnect J205 completely and play a game. If the vol goes up down with this removed, then it will be an IC issue on the CPU board. Many of the WPC boards had batt damage in this area (from memory the U16,U17 (LM339) and U15 (74LS240) control these. If they are the problem, might need to remove the board and send Marks (or Nino in his absence)!. I should have the parts on hand if required.
Don't stress, easy fix.
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Cool, thanks Marty. I will try and do it tonight and let you know.
As for your question Rod. Yeah it does register on the DMD. I might try and clean the switches a little, I thought the same thing, something sounds like it sticks.
Will also try and reset like Marty suggests.
Thanks again guys.
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Cool, thanks Marty. I will try and do it tonight and let you know.
As for your question Rod. Yeah it does register on the DMD. I might try and clean the switches a little, I thought the same thing, something sounds like it sticks.
Will also try and reset like Marty suggests.
Thanks again guys.
The whole unit unscrews easily (again with power off and unplugged). Its the earth which triggers the switch so look for anything obvious. Also check the earth to the coin door. Make sure its tight.
If this fails, refer to my last post re J205. This is a quick way to work out if it is plug/wire related or CPU board problem.
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All tested fine is switch test. Gave contacts a little clean turned the machine off for 1 hr to let it chill out and it all seems to be ok for now. Will keep an eye on it, and look for loose wires etc.
Cheers
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I spoke too soon. After about 6 games or so the issue arises.
I will have to investigate further I think
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Rod, I actually misread your comment, it does not show on the DMD as it adjusts itself. Sorry
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Excuse my ignorance. Where would the volume pot be, and what am I looking for eactly? Just check the connections?
I don't know if Getaway has a volume pot - by the sound of it there isn't one. I thought the machine was older than it is.
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George - Check the groundstraps to the speakers. Remove the backglass, then lift the speaker / display panel out and make sure the ground wires are fitted and the nuts tightened. Give the guys at Childs a quick call to let them know about the problem.
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It happened again today. It is fine for about 4 games then it happens. Turn the machine off and on it is fine again. Very strange.
I had a look at the coin door and found a loose wire. Does anyone know if this needs to be anywhere.
I will have a look behind the glass tomorrow as well Nino
Will work out how to insert a pic lol
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That is not right !
Lets wait for a Getaway owner to post a picture of where that wire should be.
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Yeah did not think so. I just sent a message to Mark also with it.
Your more than welcome to come over on the weekend lol, there is always fridge of beer with your name on it !!!
I am sure Marty will know where it belongs.
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Looks like the ground wire for the door.
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i have seen this before..
there is a 8pin IC on sound board that is a 'digital pot' that is failing, try freeze spray when playing up and then check component associated with this ic on the input side to confirm (including cable/header).
repaired a giligans with this exact symptom..the manual control seems to work fine still too which is really misleading.. like when it gets an update it can do it but loses it soon afterwards
regards
PS this should be pretty easy to find %$%
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Check that loose wire and trace it back onto the door itself. Does it attach to something metal? If so then it's the ground wire for the door and this needs to be connected to ground braid in the cabinet.
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Humpalot, I think it is a ground wire also. There is ground wire already on the door, which is what threw me off. This wire looks too short to reach the door, so I thought it should go somewhere inside the machine, but did not want to touch anything.
NUG- Which one is the sound board. (pardon my ignorance, this is all too technical for my liking. Truth be known, I see all these wires and freak out lol, yet I used to work on Pc's and home theatres lol.
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Humpalot, I think it is a ground wire also. There is ground wire already on the door, which is what threw me off. This wire looks too short to reach the door, so I thought it should go somewhere inside the machine, but did not want to touch anything.
NUG- Which one is the sound board. (pardon my ignorance, this is all too technical for my liking. Truth be known, I see all these wires and freak out lol, yet I used to work on Pc's and home theatres lol.
That loose wire should just reach around the door frame inside the cabinet and screw into the cabinet ground braid, the other end is already attached to the door. I don't believe that your door is currently connected to ground.
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As per my previous post, locate in the backbox connector J205 and with power off, disconnect it. Power game up and play for a while. See if problem persists.
The direct switches on these bypass the switch matrix and can only be one of two things generally. Ground issue or MPU board issue.
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That looks alot cleaner than mine Marty. I wouldn't mind seeing some pics of your machine. If you get a chance post some. The bottom decal looked very clean.
I will have a good fiddle with things tomorrow and if I get stuck, I will post some more pics etc.
Cheers
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That looks alot cleaner than mine Marty. I wouldn't mind seeing some pics of your machine. If you get a chance post some. The bottom decal looked very clean.
I will have a good fiddle with things tomorrow and if I get stuck, I will post some more pics etc.
Cheers
THanks!
I did cheat with the coin door. Cannot take credit other than buying a NOS door and bolting it in. Does make a big difference. Hence why everyone jumping on MarkC's deal with NOS doors!
Few more pics of my machine (before and after).
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=1063.0
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That looks fantastic Marty. Very jealous. Like I said, how much fro you to do mine!!!!!
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Hey Marty, I have reseated as suggested. I hae taken some more pics, my only concern is the loose wire which looks like a ground wire.
I have followed the it through the braid an it looks like the other end is connected to the coin door as ground.
Any suggestions where is should go?
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It doesn't matter where it goes so long as it is connected to the ground braid in some way.
I keep saying to attach the ground wire and MartyJ thought that it was a "Ground issue or MPU board issue".
So please fix the ground problem and lets see if it fixes your sound problem. If it doesn't fix you particular sound problem, we are at least one step closer and your pinball will be correctly wired.
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It doesn't matter where it goes so long as it is connected to the ground braid in some way.
I keep saying to attach the ground wire and MartyJ thought that it was a "Ground issue or MPU board issue".
So please fix the ground problem and lets see if it fixes your sound problem. If it doesn't fix you particular sound problem, we are at least one step closer and your pinball will be correctly wired.
+1.
Door must be grounded and it has popped off or fallen off. Make sure to clean the paint away (enough for screw head) so it makes good ground. It would have been connected previously so it should be easy to see.
This will eliminate one problem as Humpalot suggested before moving on to next.
Have you a Digital Multimeter at home? You won't need it for the next step, but if you do have it handy.
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Nah, i will go and buy a multimeter tomorrow.
So as long as I connect this wire to the door/metal the ground will be ok correct?
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WRONG.
1. It's already connected to the door.
2. Connect the thing to the ground braid, a screw will do if you can't locate the original position for it.
3. Once connected to the ground braid the door will be correctly grounded.
(note the ground braid is the silver braid wire that is stapled to the inside of the cabinet and is attached to everything metal.)
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My bad. @.@
I didn't look at the photo close enough. I think upon closer inspection I see another one on the inside of the leg bracket which should hopefully be connected to the braid. If you had a DMM a quick continuity test would confirm.
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Mick is right - Just screw it to a ground braid and report back !
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Thanks guys, and thanks for the eplanation of the ground braid. I had a close look, and there was one connected to the ground braid, but the wire had been cut. I look around and saw no evidence of this wire anywhere else, so I have connected the loose wire in its place. machine fires up ok. I will have a play a little later tonight and will report back.
Thanks for the continued support and sorry for my ignorance.
I am learning heaps which is a plus.
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Ok, I think we can rule out a ground issue. I connected it to the ground braid as suggested, machine still has the problem. I will get my hands on a multimeter tomorrow and wil wait for further instructions.
Ah the joy of pinball machines.
Also just discovered there is a little grey piece missing from the top left ramp on the superharger.
Does anyone know if this piece is really needed so is it just asthetics. Ocasionally, the supercharger is also slow, any ideas?
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OK.
Door grounded - issue out of the way.
If you are confident (with game off and unplugged) remove backglass) locate the connector J205 - it will be on the left hand side - lower corner I think. There is screen printing in white of the numbers for each connector. Some are printed either above or below the individual connector.
Carefully remove the connector and leave disconnected.
This is isolating the switches completely. If the problem continues we may need to look at a fault on the MPU board.
If the problem goes away, there may be either a connector issue or wiring issue between J205 and coin interface board -> switches.
This is where a DMM (multimeter) will come in handy. Don't stress if you havn't got one yet.
This fixed the problem on my Getaway, so if the above cannot isolate it, over to Humpalot!
Re the ramp - if its the metal part (1/2 way and near top) then it is normal. I thought the same thing!
Supercharger sometimes going slow? Does it speed up. Mine sometimes starts of slow but speeds up quickly. If not might be a magnet not plugged in or dead. Plug and play fix on the magnets but we'll get your sound issue sorted first.
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Yep as MartyJ said ^^^
1. As Rod71 said I'd check the coin door switches (mainly the + volume one), do they move freely or are they sticky from stuff being spilled? They can be cleaned by soaking in metho or alcohol.
2. Then as Nug suggested and this is straight from http://www.pinrepair.com/wpc/index3.htm#sound
Volume up FULL and Can't turn it Down.
The volume control on all WPC games is electronic. On pre WPC-DCS games, this is controlled by an electronic prom pot. This E-pot is a X9503, at location U5 on the sound board. If turning the volume up or down has no effect, and the volume is stuck on full blast, this is the first component that should be checked. Also the capacitor C18 (47 mfd, 25 volts) that connects to the E-pot can fail too, and should be checked. As described above, the electronic volume control can be disabled by removing A-12738 sound board jumper W9 to disconnect the software controlled volume circuit. Then connect a potentiometer (any value 5k to 200k ohms should work) to connector J507:
* J507 pin 2: To center pot leg
* J507 pin 4: To outside pot leg (Analog ground)
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Thanks for the info. You guys talk a different language. Sounds way too technical.
Thanks for the link Hump, after reading the sound issues, this is the best one that fits my problem.
Intermittent Sound Cuts and Shrieks.
After playing a WPC game for a while (5 minutes or longer), the game sound starts to cut out or in some cases it will emit an extremely loud tone that can get louder and louder until the speaker (or your eardrum) blows. If you turn off the game and re-start, the problem will appear again very shortly. Sometimes you can play a while and it never happens. Often the heat sink attachment to the TDA amps can be very poor and cause the amp(s) to overheat. You can feel the amp(s) get red hot. Solution is to simply un-bolt the sinks, re-grease them and re-attach, making sure to use a locking washer or kep nut to stop it from coming loose.
Now I just need to find where these amps are and see what they are talking about.
I will look for the j205 connector also and try that Marty.
I am going to have to buy you guys a slab of beer or something for all this help.
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If you run out of luck mate - Let me know and I'll pop in next week and have a look
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Yeah thanks for that Nino. I might have to take you up on that. I will have a look today and see how I go.
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sound bard is middle of top row(but familiarise yourself with the others)...
if it were the coin door buttons.. wouldnt you see bargraph volume ADJ? (i thought they all did this (wpc))
sounds data 'ish to me
check from where the volume adj data is coming from on the soundbaord and see if everything looks ok.
or i reckon C18 could be a dry joint culprit as an early bet !
regards
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Ok removed J205 and played 4 games and it happened again. Seems to happen after about 20 to 30 mins of game play.
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Leave it on, keep playing.
If this is the case - ie error doesnt happen will be an easier fix. I would suggest a couple of hours, intermittent games.
**Edit...OK. It did happen again.....
Bummer.
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if it were the coin door buttons.. wouldnt you see bargraph volume ADJ? (i thought they all did this (wpc))
Yep they do, but wanted to exclude the simple things first. Also thought maybe they don't look at the display whilst the ball is in play and it may of been missed.
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Ok removed J205 and played 4 games and it happened again. Seems to happen after about 20 to 30 mins of game play.
Might want to take up Nino's offer of help. These types of problems are so much easier to troubleshoot when they are in front of you.
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Ok. My eyes are not working correctly at the moment. ^.^
Misread that it 'didn't happen' again.
On mine, when this problem occurred, the display showed the volume bar going up. Mine also did it with J205 unplugged.
Mine occurred due to batt damage on the CPU board.
If you are able to take a photo of the batteries on the board - close up and clear (macro shot) just to eliminate this otherwise I'm out of ideas.
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Nino, if you can come over one day let me know. I am fairly flexible, so any time that suits you really.
Marty, you are confusing me lol. To repeat, when I disconnected j205, I could not mannually adjust the volume up or down. I played the game as suggested and after 4 games or so, it cranked up on its own when I started a new game, i.e when I pushed the start butotn( That seems to trigger it).
Knowing my luck I have not connected something, and it is a simple fix, but who knows. As you once said the joys of pinball.
I will try and have a word to the boys at Childs also, se what they say.
Still have to look at the charger problem, it seems to be getting weaker and weaker. sometimes barely makes one loop.
Could it be something that I might need new balls due to magnetic issues or something?
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Nino, if you can come over one day let me know. I am fairly flexible, so any time that suits you really.
Marty, you are confusing me lol. To repeat, when I disconnected j205, I could not mannually adjust the volume up or down. I played the game as suggested and after 4 games or so, it cranked up on its own when I started a new game, i.e when I pushed the start butotn( That seems to trigger it).
Knowing my luck I have not connected something, and it is a simple fix, but who knows. As you once said the joys of pinball.
I will try and have a word to the boys at Childs also, se what they say.
Still have to look at the charger problem, it seems to be getting weaker and weaker. sometimes barely makes one loop.
Could it be something that I might need new balls due to magnetic issues or something?
Yeah sorry I misread your initial response and I thought it had resolved the issue.
Buttons wont work with J205 unplugged. It is mainly to try an isolate the problem either to the CPU board or to the switches themselves. Due to the fact with the volume is still going up with the switches disconnected indicates that the problem is not the switches. It can be now either an issue as suggested by Humpalot re the soundcard or the actual CPU board. If you are able to post a photo of the area I described above this will help (looking for area to left of batteries and underneith)
Are you also able to clarify if whilst playing the volume bar appeared on the DMD display?
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Here are some pics. Let me know if they are ok, or what you wanted. At least this is getting me ripping the machine open :D
Not sure if it is anything, but found another connection that was not connected.
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Boards look to be clean.
Pretty sure that loose connection is for the knocker.
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That makes sense.
Thanks for that.
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Boards look to be clean.
Pretty sure that loose connection is for the knocker.
Yep, it does look clean.
Ok thats me out.......
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Your board looks damage free (from the photos) so I'd say Humpalot is 100% on the money again.
I don't have any parts for the soundboards to help you out with unfortunately. If Nino pops in to check it and needs something else, I've got quite a few spare IC's for the CPU boards.
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childs rang me today and are sending another board for me to try. Thanks for the help everyone, I have learnt alot.
Next problem.
Supercharger seems buggered. It initially gave me a diverter error, so I went into the supercharger test and opto switch one was open. It now does say that it is closed. But now the charger does not seem to work. Ball is lucky to go around once. I could have well buggered the settings myself. What tests can i do to isolate the problem. As you are all aware the problem began a couple of days ago.
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Does the diverter arm move freely ?
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What is the diverter exactly. I should mention now that nothing comes up on the test report as not working like it used to.
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What is the diverter exactly. I should mention now that nothing comes up on the test report as not working like it used to.
It is the gate that guides the ball around the supercharger, then opens to allow the ball through the top LHS ramp - near the upside down "U".
With the game off - it should be able to be opened and then spring closed.
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yeah that does work.
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Make sure that the sender and reciever LED's are spotless, clean with a cotton bud in Nifty and then a dry cotton bud to dry. There are three in the supercharger assembly that goes across the ramp/slot.
Then do to the swich test and put a screwdriver in bewteen the sensors to see if they are opening and closing as they should.
When all of this is done, then do a super charger speed test and let me know what you get.
Cheers Angelo
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OK first regarding the sound issue. Childs has provided another sound board. I have put it on and will test. Fingers crossed.
Now for the Supercharger:
WIth the guys at childs on the phone, I did a sensor test and they all open and close, tested by using a screwdriver as suggested by Childs and Angelo. Then did a speed test and got numbers like 46, 71. The most I got was 226 but I might have thrown the ball up there very quickly myself. The ball only does one loop and comes back down the entrance ramp.
It was suggested that Nino's services might be required again by the boys at Childs.
Cheers
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OK first regarding the sound issue. Childs has provided another sound board. I have put it on and will test. Fingers crossed.
Now for the Supercharger:
WIth the guys at childs on the phone, I did a sensor test and they all open and close, tested by using a screwdriver as suggested by Childs and Angelo. Then did a speed test and got numbers like 46, 71. The most I got was 226 but I might have thrown the ball up there very quickly myself. The ball only does one loop and comes back down the entrance ramp.
It was suggested that Nino's services might be required again by the boys at Childs.
Cheers
Happy to oblige - I'll let you know when I can come around - Family have had the flu ravage through the house - I can't even venture into the garage !
We will get it going..
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OK first regarding the sound issue. Childs has provided another sound board. I have put it on and will test. Fingers crossed.
Did the sound board fix your problem *%*
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Thanks Nino, anytime you can is fine, just send us a message so I can be here. I have a fairly blank schedule.
As for the sound board, I have not really played the game since the charger does not function, defeats the purpose in a way. If it does the same problem then we will know it was not the board. I am sure it wil sort itself out, but I will let you all know.
Childs seem to think it was an electronic pot issue on the board which is common on these machines.
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My batting average with your machine is not good 0/1.
Have you checked fuse F103?
Also what ROM version is it running. When you first fire the machine up it will tell you on the DMD. It may have P-C? or hopefully L-2 (or L-5). The P versions were the very first and from my reading were a little buggy. L-2 is aparently the best version without issues. I changed mine from P-C to L-2 and really did change the game play significantly. Especially the supercharger.
If yours is not firing at all this will have nothing to do with it, but more just for fine tuning later on.
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Your batting average is fine, it's my machine that has a bad average. Nope but I can do that.
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Your batting average is fine, it's my machine that has a bad average. Nope but I can do that.
Not really, these things happen all the time. If a plane crashed through the roof and crushed your machine, but would be bad for the machine!.
Quite often transporting machines can identify small little issues like this. I've done more reading about your sound issue and I reckon Humpalot and Mark's techs are on the money. Easy job to swap the board.
The magnets, could be a number of issues, something simple like a fuse, or a plug come loose or maybe not. I'm sure Nino would have it up and running in the time it takes to make a cup of tea, if you havn't sorted it by then.
For me playing the games is fun but keeping them running and maintainance is also fun. You've learnt heaps already this week and you'll know more by next week. When you get your next pin you'll have more confidence to fix minor issues without hesitation!
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I think that is the problem Marty. It has a nice big black burn mark in the middle. Will have to replace it.
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I think that is the problem Marty. It has a nice big black burn mark in the middle. Will have to replace it.
OK, refer to the manual as to the correct fuse type and NEVER overfuse them.
Fuses blow for a reason (generally). If the magnets stay on for too long it can cause the fuse to blow (either in test mode or game play), or the accelerator board for the SC may have an issue.
The fuse will have to be replaced either way.
RTBB here has a great selection and super quick postage too. Always handy to have a few spares floating around.
I'll wait for those with superior knowledge than I to assist with this too.
FYI with fuses, a visual check is not always the best way to go - but a big arse burn mark is a good sign. Good practise to check with a multimeter with it out of machine.
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Just had a play with mine too on the SC Time test mode
I was averaging around 88 - 98. From reading on RGP there does not seem to be a definitive answer, but most say anything around this is functioning correctly.
In relation to the divertor error, when I had the P-C ROM installed I was getting a divertor-lo error on startup every time. There was nothing wrong with my divertor and upgrading the ROM resolved this issue completely.
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Yeah I will buy a multimeter tomorrow I think. Now I just have to learn how to use one. They make no sense to me. I will just wait for a step by step from you Marty :D
Cheers
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Yeah I will buy a multimeter tomorrow I think. Now I just have to learn how to use one. They make no sense to me. I will just wait for a step by step from you Marty :D
Cheers
Make sure it does AC and DC voltages (all should), it has Ohms, Diode and continuity (buzz). Do a quick search here on DMM and you should pick up some more info.
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Ok, firstly a very big thank you to everyone for the help. You have all taught me a lot over the last two weeks and if I have annoyed anyone with my stupid questions and ignorance I am sorry.
Supercharger issue: Marty your batting average just jumped to 1/2. It was fuse f103. Replaced and the supercharger is flying. The little tweak to the sensors that I did yesterday have made it a lot better.
Sound issue: I have played a few games so far and it has been fine. a fellow new recruit to aussie pinball and friend is coming over tonight for a bash on getaway and guitar hero metalica (great game for anyone interested) so we will have a decent sessio tonight. If there is a sound problem still it will reveal itself tonight.
Huge thanks to the boys at Childs for your help also on how quickly they have acted on my requests and after a dubious start they have certainly kept their word on their back up service. Massive congratulations on a job well done so far.
Finally, thanks again Nino for the offer to help. Obviously you are mor than welcome to pop in anytime for a game, coffee, beer or just to chill looking admiring flying V's and watching kiss DVD's.
I even managed to replace my apron the other day. Picked up a decent one on EBAY FOR $20 which was in way better condition to mine. My lockdown bar is on the way also. Next mission is to change the side rails which I might have to recruit Nino for.(Just name your price).
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All this has basically made me think of what parts I should start collecting to have on hand. I have some 444 and 555 globes on hand and 3 balls. What should I start collecting to have a back of for future issues?
All suggestions welcome.
And once again if there is anything I can help with, dont hesitate to ask, I make good coffee and will even walk dogs to repay my debt %.%
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ok, game played for 1 hr no sound issue, looks like to be all fixed. #*# $#$ @@* ^^^
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thanks for the kind words , i even here them from here in usa
we do try and follow up with what we sell .
most will say as for back up parts always have some flipper rubbers and sling shot ones too ,
we always replace these every 6 months
maybe have some novus too, this will keep your playfield clean and also keeps the balls clean
just a few little things ontop of the globes you have
mark
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Ok, firstly a very big thank you to everyone for the help. You have all taught me a lot over the last two weeks and if I have annoyed anyone with my stupid questions and ignorance I am sorry.
Supercharger issue: Marty your batting average just jumped to 1/2. It was fuse f103. Replaced and the supercharger is flying. The little tweak to the sensors that I did yesterday have made it a lot better.
Sound issue: I have played a few games so far and it has been fine. a fellow new recruit to aussie pinball and friend is coming over tonight for a bash on getaway and guitar hero metalica (great game for anyone interested) so we will have a decent sessio tonight. If there is a sound problem still it will reveal itself tonight.
Huge thanks to the boys at Childs for your help also on how quickly they have acted on my requests and after a dubious start they have certainly kept their word on their back up service. Massive congratulations on a job well done so far.
Finally, thanks again Nino for the offer to help. Obviously you are mor than welcome to pop in anytime for a game, coffee, beer or just to chill looking admiring flying V's and watching kiss DVD's.
I even managed to replace my apron the other day. Picked up a decent one on EBAY FOR $20 which was in way better condition to mine. My lockdown bar is on the way also. Next mission is to change the side rails which I might have to recruit Nino for.(Just name your price).
#*#
Great stuff. Did you check the ROM version as well? There is a BIG difference playing between P-C and L-2 or L-5.
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Next mission is to change the side rails which I might have to recruit Nino for.(Just name your price).
Ok, I am acting on behalf of Nino Pinball Management Inc. You ask us to name our price for side rail replacement. Today is your luck day as Nino Inc is running a special for you of $5,000.00. Just pay me and I will be sure to pass it on less my fees. !*!
P.S Good to hear it is all fixed #*#
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Ok, firstly a very big thank you to everyone for the help. You have all taught me a lot over the last two weeks and if I have annoyed anyone with my stupid questions and ignorance I am sorry.
Supercharger issue: Marty your batting average just jumped to 1/2. It was fuse f103. Replaced and the supercharger is flying. The little tweak to the sensors that I did yesterday have made it a lot better.
Sound issue: I have played a few games so far and it has been fine. a fellow new recruit to aussie pinball and friend is coming over tonight for a bash on getaway and guitar hero metalica (great game for anyone interested) so we will have a decent sessio tonight. If there is a sound problem still it will reveal itself tonight.
Huge thanks to the boys at Childs for your help also on how quickly they have acted on my requests and after a dubious start they have certainly kept their word on their back up service. Massive congratulations on a job well done so far.
Finally, thanks again Nino for the offer to help. Obviously you are mor than welcome to pop in anytime for a game, coffee, beer or just to chill looking admiring flying V's and watching kiss DVD's.
I even managed to replace my apron the other day. Picked up a decent one on EBAY FOR $20 which was in way better condition to mine. My lockdown bar is on the way also. Next mission is to change the side rails which I might have to recruit Nino for.(Just name your price).
Good news mate ! I'll still pop around for game or two, and now that you have your first machine behind you - I'll happily watch your collection grow !
PSP sells everything you will need - Novus 2, Balls, Rubbers, globes - If you like - I can make a list for you. I think that they will have the siderails to suit your machine, and I can help you install them - and whatever mods you need !
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Next mission is to change the side rails which I might have to recruit Nino for.(Just name your price).
Ok, I am acting on behalf of Nino Pinball Management Inc. You ask us to name our price for side rail replacement. Today is your luck day as Nino Inc is running a special for you of $5,000.00. Just pay me and I will be sure to pass it on less my fees. !*!
P.S Good to hear it is all fixed #*#
<.>
Sounds like a Nigerian scam to me %.% %.%
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Ok, firstly a very big thank you to everyone for the help. You have all taught me a lot over the last two weeks and if I have annoyed anyone with my stupid questions and ignorance I am sorry.
Supercharger issue: Marty your batting average just jumped to 1/2. It was fuse f103. Replaced and the supercharger is flying. The little tweak to the sensors that I did yesterday have made it a lot better.
Sound issue: I have played a few games so far and it has been fine. a fellow new recruit to aussie pinball and friend is coming over tonight for a bash on getaway and guitar hero metalica (great game for anyone interested) so we will have a decent sessio tonight. If there is a sound problem still it will reveal itself tonight.
Huge thanks to the boys at Childs for your help also on how quickly they have acted on my requests and after a dubious start they have certainly kept their word on their back up service. Massive congratulations on a job well done so far.
Finally, thanks again Nino for the offer to help. Obviously you are mor than welcome to pop in anytime for a game, coffee, beer or just to chill looking admiring flying V's and watching kiss DVD's.
I even managed to replace my apron the other day. Picked up a decent one on EBAY FOR $20 which was in way better condition to mine. My lockdown bar is on the way also. Next mission is to change the side rails which I might have to recruit Nino for.(Just name your price).
Good news mate ! I'll still pop around for game or two, and now that you have your first machine behind you - I'll happily watch your collection grow !
PSP sells everything you will need - Novus 2, Balls, Rubbers, globes - If you like - I can make a list for you. I think that they will have the siderails to suit your machine, and I can help you install them - and whatever mods you need !
Last time I checked Mark had the side rails to suit. Not to many mods out there for the Getaway. I've seen people bolt actual traffic lights onto the side of the head box. A little OTT for my tastes. What about some nice #555 LEDS (red, yellow, green) for the traffic light?
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Thanks for warning me about the Nigerian scam, I was getting my $5,000 ready.
In all seriousness, side rails then I will slowly entertain getting the decals redone, that is whats going to scare me after seeing what Marty went through on his and all the work involved.
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Thanks for warning me about the Nigerian scam, I was getting my $5,000 ready.
In all seriousness, side rails then I will slowly entertain getting the decals redone, that is whats going to scare me after seeing what Marty went through on his and all the work involved.
I read PinballGods thread with his TOM decals and he made it look easy.
Knowing me, I did it the very hard way.
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Mark, you should create a "Getaway Rubber Kit" on PSP for idiots, lol I mean novice's like myself.
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Mark, you should create a "Getaway Rubber Kit" on PSP for idiots, lol I mean novice's like myself.
will do when i get back should be around $25.00
mark
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Thanks mate.
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Saw the Getaway rubber kit on your site Mark. Thanks for that. I will make a purchase soon. Going through and making a wish and must have list:)
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Boards look to be clean.
Pretty sure that loose connection is for the knocker.
Hey out of curiosity, when does this cable get plugged in?
Does that mean I have a knocker already?
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Boards look to be clean.
Pretty sure that loose connection is for the knocker.
Hey out of curiosity, when does this cable get plugged in?
Does that mean I have a knocker already?
Knocker assembly should be up in the top left hand side of the backbox.
Are you getting the 'crack' of the knocker with a free game or match? It was disconnected on many machines..
Take a photo of it if you're unsure. Generally there is a two pin molex connector and two wires going to the knocker.
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Boards look to be clean.
Pretty sure that loose connection is for the knocker.
Hey out of curiosity, when does this cable get plugged in?
Does that mean I have a knocker already?
Knocker assembly should be up in the top left hand side of the backbox.
Are you getting the 'crack' of the knocker with a free game or match? It was disconnected on many machines..
Take a photo of it if you're unsure. Generally there is a two pin molex connector and two wires going to the knocker.
It seems that a lot of European sold machines have the knocker disconnected or sometimes removed. So it may be there, or not. The only way to find out is to look for it - you are looking for a coil and plunger.
But if the wires are already there you may be in luck. It's always worth hooking up the knocker as nothing beats the sound of that triple knock when you beat the high score.
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Boards look to be clean.
Pretty sure that loose connection is for the knocker.
Hey out of curiosity, when does this cable get plugged in?
Does that mean I have a knocker already?
Knocker assembly should be up in the top left hand side of the backbox.
Are you getting the 'crack' of the knocker with a free game or match? It was disconnected on many machines..
Take a photo of it if you're unsure. Generally there is a two pin molex connector and two wires going to the knocker.
It seems that a lot of European sold machines have the knocker disconnected or sometimes removed. So it may be there, or not. The only way to find out is to look for it - you are looking for a coil and plunger.
But if the wires are already there you may be in luck. It's always worth hooking up the knocker as nothing beats the sound of that triple knock when you beat the high score.
Yeah Andrew's 100% right. With my Euro machines all have been there. I'll take a photo of mine if you're unsure.
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Thanks guys, I had a look and there looks to be no knocker assenbly there. There are some screw holes which indicates to me it may have had one. Thats cool, I was just curious. Marty, would be keen to see a pic of yours when you get round to it, no real hurry.
cheers guys.
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I will have a look around to see if I have a spare...Not 100% sure.
Will upload a photo tomorrow so you know what it looks like. Not unusual to be missing on Euro games.
I would think the parts to put one together should be available locally now too!
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Should only cost around $30 or so to get one - worth it in my opinion.