The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Technical Matters => Pinball Repairs / Problems & Assistance => Topic started by: infinite1977 on July 01, 2009, 08:46:07 PM
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Hey guys, I am after some advise about some various things. Any help would be appreciated.
1.)Rom versions:
Marty a while ago asked me what version my rom was, I have checked and it is revision L5. What is the difference between this and L2?
2.)Playfield Mylar:
My inserts (decals) are starting to peel. IS it worth while getting a mylar over this, it is an easy process etc?
Has anyone replaced these inserts before, are they difficult? There is someone selling them on EBAY but I would rather source them from here if I could.
3.)Cleaning the playfield:
Should I just use Novus 2 for this, or do I need to use canuba wax as well? How often should it be done?
4.)Supercharger:
The unit is working well, but everynow and then the diverter seems to open up early and release the ball. Is there anything that can be done?
5.) The ball does not always stick in the burn rubber hole, is there any adjustments that can be done, and also the kickback is only shooting it up there 3 out of 10 times, has gotten worse although the machine is level etc.
Cheers
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Howdy,
L5 is the latest ROM version. Mine had L2 which is an earlier release. I went with L2 as from research on RGP (which isn't always gospel) said that L2 was a little less buggy than L5.
I believe it is mostly to do with the supercharger anyway.
I wouldn't stress about the divertor opening up early. Mine does this probably 1 out of 4 times give or take. I think it would be level setup for the kickback...Maybe just lower it a bit (ignore whats on the bubble) and find the sweet spot for the machine.
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we always use Novus 2 on all out pins
Mylar is very easy to fit , pop in if you are in the area and one of the boys can show you
mark
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The decal's wearing is quite common on the Getaway's unfortunately.
BUT the good news to that is that insert decal kits are available. Just be aware that some kits out there don't have the white highlighting around the numbers - as some printers can't print white (like your home printer). I would advise against getting the decals without the white highlighting as it is very dull and does not look right.
I did the ones on my T2 which came up really good (have a look at my resto thread on it! - shameless plug).
I found the only place which did the correct decals is http://www.classic-arcades.com/NEW-STORE/index1.html?products.html&1
Just also be aware that some times the graphics can be out of alignment / colour too.
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Question 5, What happens on your table is perfectly normal , Every Getaway that I have played exactly the same thing happens. Nothing worse than when you need that extra ball and every shot to the burn rubber hole pops out. It all adds to the fun, as for the kick back , if every kick back ended up in the same place it wouldn't be pinball.
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OK.
Mine HS2 from the kickback was only hitting the hole about 2/10 times....From a bit of research it should technically hit it every time (9/10 acceptable).
On the left hand side, remove the plastic which sits above the targets...Just slightly loosen the screws (2 or 3 in total - one hidden by ramp) and remove the nut..
Gently slide plastic out. First, ensure that the post has a rubber on it. It does seem to make a difference. Also you'll see a screw. There is virtually no room for adjustment but mine was always hitting the black post (or yellow on yours if correct). I just tweeked it back to the left a touch, and now getting 10/10 from kickback.
Attached a couple of pics...Second one is exact angle of mine..
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Thanks for th help everyone.
Marty, with the decals, have you actually done it? Is it hard? It just looks like you peel and stick them on to me.
Do you recommend putting a mylar over then once this is done also?
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Thanks for th help everyone.
Marty, with the decals, have you actually done it? Is it hard? It just looks like you peel and stick them on to me.
Do you recommend putting a mylar over then once this is done also?
On a HS2 - No. I've done mine on a T2 which is similar. The hardest part is getting the old insert text off cleanly. I was told (not sure if correct) that from factory the text is directly screenprinted onto the insert, not a decal. Once its removed cleanly any residue must also be removed.
I don't think its essential with the ones I bought but I still put down a sheet of mylar to protect it. Some may disagree with me, but it is a lot easier to remove the playfield from the cabinet (5 min job) and strip the entire playfield to do it correctly. If its only the lower half you're doing the decals on, then no need to strip the top half.
Getaway is a very easy machine to strip parts from...You'll also need a playfield stand/jig. I made mine out of wood - complete ripoff of Nino's original design (matter still before the courts!)...His designs are in the handy hints section...
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Sweet. I have bought the inserts from Classicarcades. He said he is going to include a shft year decal for the front of the machine free of charge as well..
1.) once I have peeled off the old insert, what do you recommend to clean the residue off, something like goo remover? Then I imagine you just stick the new one on yeah?
2.) any advice on how to put on this shift gear decal for the front of the cab?
Cheers
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Sweet. I have bought the inserts from Classicarcades. He said he is going to include a shft year decal for the front of the machine free of charge as well..
1.) once I have peeled off the old insert, what do you recommend to clean the residue off, something like goo remover? Then I imagine you just stick the new one on yeah?
2.) any advice on how to put on this shift gear decal for the front of the cab?
Cheers
I have used Shellite with a very clean cloth to clean inserts. I've also given them a clean with novus 3 then novus 2 then shellite again or isocol alcohol before decal. The novus is used to remove any scratches from insert, but must be cleaned off before decal installation.
Are you planning on mylaring over the area once finished? Post a couple of pics if you can.
Re the shifter...Four bolts from the inside of the cab. Just photograph and label wiring carefully before removal. Decal is installed onto the metal plate front. That is an easy job!
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Cool thanks Marty. I would like to put a mylar over the top I think. I am going to try one decal first, one that is not too visible incase I stuff it up. I will have a mate over (TSPP) to help as he is a little anal about these things and will have more attention to detail to help. Once we do one and we understand the job then I guess the rest wil follow.
In regards to putting a mylar over the top, is that just like applying contact paper, I assume you litterally just roll it on.
I am more than happy to have you and Nino over when we do this to provide your wisdom,hint hint,wink wink. The fridge is always stocked with Beer.
I will definately post before and after pics as wel..
With the shifter, what is used to remove the old decal, same stuff, novus, shellite etc?
P.S Marty, this better be an easy job!! you always seem to push me out of my confort zone. I am still drooling over your restore pics on your machine, your T2 looked good also.
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Cool thanks Marty. I would like to put a mylar over the top I think. I am going to try one decal first, one that is not too visible incase I stuff it up. I will have a mate over (TSPP) to help as he is a little anal about these things and will have more attention to detail to help. Once we do one and we understand the job then I guess the rest wil follow.
In regards to putting a mylar over the top, is that just like applying contact paper, I assume you litterally just roll it on.
I am more than happy to have you and Nino over when we do this to provide your wisdom,hint hint,wink wink. The fridge is always stocked with Beer.
I will definately post before and after pics as wel..
With the shifter, what is used to remove the old decal, same stuff, novus, shellite etc?
P.S Marty, this better be an easy job!! you always seem to push me out of my confort zone. I am still drooling over your restore pics on your machine, your T2 looked good also.
Hehe...Mylar is definately a two person job. There is a technique which I learnt from a member here - cannot remember if it was Retropin or Nuggy....Maybe try a search on here otherwise I'll post a couple of pics as to how I do it. Someone else maybe able to improve on my method..
If you are doing the entire playfield, its best to remove it from the game and put on a stand and remove EVERYTHING. My first mylar attempt was trying to get it down around things (ie bumpers, posts, switches etc... No Good. Speak with Mark and find out when his guys are doing some and see if you can watch.
Re the shifter - to be honest I cannot remember. If its an old decal, heat with hairdryer and remove, then scrub with shellite to remove residue. I thought mine was painted on, which I just cleaned and went straight over the top. If this one goes bad no dramas and easy to fix...
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OK, here is a rough demo on how I put down mylar. I'm not saying this is the only way to do it, perhaps there are better ways but its worked well for me (with two people)...
Attached is some pics of a playfield I picked up from Marks today!....(only kidding)
Cut your sheet of mylar to size and ensure it is enough. I never pre cut holes for switches, lamps etc...This can always be done with a surgeons knife later (available from Bunnings)...
I peel back a couple of inches of the mylar. Now when I did my head box decals, I cut the backing away (white bit). Not really necessary for this...
I fold the backing paper back on its self in a nice C shape....I carefully apply the first section and with a clean terry cloth (or T-shirt) press down with long strokes from one side to the other....
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With my right hand, I leave it on the backing paper and slowly drag it to the right (pulling it away from the mylar). Now, I always get the missus to help and she will either stand at the end of the playfield holding the two end corners of the mylar up, ensuring I am keeping everything square. - This is important if full playfield. Sometimes she may also drag the backing paper from the other side to keep it square as well. With my left hand, with the terry cloth I'm rubbing it back and forth - full width of mylar just where it touches the playfield. Drag with one hand, rub with the other....
I hope this makes sense?
I've got quite a few off cuts I can send you if you want. If you have a piece of MDF or ply laying around you can do a couple of test runs. Once you've got the technique worked out is pretty easy as long as you go at a very slow pace and keep the mylar sheet square and even.
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Thanks Marty, it is just like applying contact on books hehe.
Love the playfield, are you sure you did not get it from Mark. ironically, it is in better condition than mine.
If I run into any issues, I will give you a yell. However my offer stil stands, (telepathic waves being sent out to Nino)
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hmmmm
yes it came from me too ...
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Bit of TLC and patience and you'll have it looking like new.
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now now I should be fair, it is not that bad at all, just taking the piss out of Mark. Once the mylar and new decals go on it will look shmick.
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Hey guys just a few questions about the machine, damm getaway it is really testing me.
1.) The balls don't seem to go into the shooter whole straightaway, i.e it takes it about 3 attemps before it comes out of the outhole. All the switches work fine in the test. The problem is eratic, that is sometimes it comes out on the first attemp sometimes it does not, it seems to come out then go straight back in, any suggestions.
2.) Marty you might be able to reply to this, I tried taking off an insert from the playfield, but it took ages, it seems that the inserts just flake off when you scrape them. Is there something that I am missing out on, or an easier way of getting them off. At this rate, it will take a year the replace every insert.
Cheers
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Hey guys just a few questions about the machine, damm getaway it is really testing me.
1.) The balls don't seem to go into the shooter whole straightaway, i.e it takes it about 3 attemps before it comes out of the outhole. All the switches work fine in the test. The problem is eratic, that is sometimes it comes out on the first attemp sometimes it does not, it seems to come out then go straight back in, any suggestions.
2.) Marty you might be able to reply to this, I tried taking off an insert from the playfield, but it took ages, it seems that the inserts just flake off when you scrape them. Is there something that I am missing out on, or an easier way of getting them off. At this rate, it will take a year the replace every insert.
Cheers
I'll have a look at mine re the outhole. I think it will just need a tweak for adjustment. Re the decals, I think I spent about two days in total on T2 (about 10hrs per day)...I had some which flaked off in tiny bits and others that came off perfectly in about 5 seconds!...It is a time consuming job, but do it well and your playfield will look like new. Don't rush and risk scratching the plastic or diamondcoat...
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OK...Here is a pic of mine.
How does the kicker feel when you move it manually? Is it binding at all or feel like it has resistance?
Can you measure the OHM of coil for me too..
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What do you mean by measuring the ohm coil?
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Sorry mate I should have explained that better.
Have you got a Digital Multimeter? You need to set it to OHM (looks like the Omega symbol)...With machine powered off and unplugged put a probe on each lug of the coil and just note the reading. It may take a few seconds depending on your DMM....
How does the kicker feel by hand? I think from memory there is a switch with a wireform that launches the kicker. Just check that too...
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The kicker feels fine, no resistance at all. The guys at Childs told me to bend the pin becasue they get out of allignment. It seems like it is kicking out with too much power making the ball bounce back. I have tried adjusting it, but nothing.
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The kicker feels fine, no resistance at all. The guys at Childs told me to bend the pin becasue they get out of allignment. It seems like it is kicking out with too much power making the ball bounce back. I have tried adjusting it, but nothing.
I bent mine, it helped most of the time but I had to resort to sticking a 3mm wide x 20mm long strip of mylar beside the kickout (well actually 2 pieces one on top of the other) this solved the problem for me and is not noticeable.
The only other alternate in to go for a less powerful coil
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Thanks guys.
I have bent mine now and sort of worked out how it all works. It works ok for now, I think I will have to wedge something in between mine like you did with yours KTM.
Cheers
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Thanks guys.
I have bent mine now and sort of worked out how it all works. It works ok for now, I think I will have to wedge something in between mine like you did with yours KTM.
Cheers
After I bent it, it all worked fine, except when trying to spit the 3rd ball out for multiball. The reason for this is there is no more balls left in the trough to push against.
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Thanks guys.
I have bent mine now and sort of worked out how it all works. It works ok for now, I think I will have to wedge something in between mine like you did with yours KTM.
Cheers
Can you post a clear pic from the top - as to what the actual metal wireform for the switch looks like?
Reason being - on my outlane obviously an op years ago had put a replacement switch in (different wireform) which had the big kink (if this makes sense) around the wrong way. It was messing up the timing causing the kickback to double fire too. May be as simple as replacing that?
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Hey Marty here are the pictures, I hope they are ok. I just had another game now and it was all cool.
Out of curiosity, when I get to Muliball, I get two balls coming out of the lock at once, is there anything I can there?
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The switch in the shooter lane is for the up/down trigger to shoot. My understanding is you'll find two switches at the end of the trough (these are the larger microswitches). I reckon these may need a tweak (or replacing)...These get hammered all the time so always a good idea to do this. You can just replace the switch and reuse the old blade if its not bent out of shape...
Re the balls coming out of the lock..Do you mean from the wire ramp on r/h/s? If so I remember reading a fix for this on RGP...I'll see if I can find it.
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How did you go with the game spitting out two balls at a time in stead of one at a time?
I have bent the pin which has fixed the problem for now, but evetually I will have to replace the unit by the looks of it.
Cheers
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I wasn't 100% sure what area you meant. When locking two balls on r/h/s ramp, the rod is letting two balls come down at once or are two balls coming out of the trough into shooter lane?
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Yeah two balls are coming down at once from the RHS ramp when the pin drops.
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Yeah two balls are coming down at once from the RHS ramp when the pin drops.
OK..
1stly check correct coil - should be AE-26-1200.
2nd - check actual assembly is secured to underside of playfield (ie not loose).
3rd - most likely the coil sleeve is dirty / worn. Not sure if you've seen one before. Its a consumable part of the coils and need changing every so often. I would advise to replace rather than clean.
They are only about $1.00 or so.
The part number is 03-7066-3. Either RTBB or Mark should have them.
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Sweet. I have bought the inserts from Classicarcades. He said he is going to include a shft year decal for the front of the machine free of charge as well..
1.) once I have peeled off the old insert, what do you recommend to clean the residue off, something like goo remover? Then I imagine you just stick the new one on yeah?
2.) any advice on how to put on this shift gear decal for the front of the cab?
Cheers
I have used Shellite with a very clean cloth to clean inserts. I've also given them a clean with novus 3 then novus 2 then shellite again or isocol alcohol before decal. The novus is used to remove any scratches from insert, but must be cleaned off before decal installation.
Are you planning on mylaring over the area once finished? Post a couple of pics if you can.
Re the shifter...Four bolts from the inside of the cab. Just photograph and label wiring carefully before removal. Decal is installed onto the metal plate front. That is an easy job!
Hey Marty where do you get Shellite from. I tried doing one insert and it just seemed to be scatching so I was afraid of scratching the playfield.
There has to be a way or something to put down to clean off the old decal? Please help !!! Unless you want to pick my playfield up and do it for me. Of course I can pay you.
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Sweet. I have bought the inserts from Classicarcades. He said he is going to include a shft year decal for the front of the machine free of charge as well..
1.) once I have peeled off the old insert, what do you recommend to clean the residue off, something like goo remover? Then I imagine you just stick the new one on yeah?
2.) any advice on how to put on this shift gear decal for the front of the cab?
Cheers
I have used Shellite with a very clean cloth to clean inserts. I've also given them a clean with novus 3 then novus 2 then shellite again or isocol alcohol before decal. The novus is used to remove any scratches from insert, but must be cleaned off before decal installation.
Are you planning on mylaring over the area once finished? Post a couple of pics if you can.
Re the shifter...Four bolts from the inside of the cab. Just photograph and label wiring carefully before removal. Decal is installed onto the metal plate front. That is an easy job!
Hey Marty where do you get Shellite from. I tried doing one insert and it just seemed to be scatching so I was afraid of scratching the playfield.
There has to be a way or something to put down to clean off the old decal? Please help !!! Unless you want to pick my playfield up and do it for me. Of course I can pay you.
Shellite you can get from Bunnings no probs (in the paint n bits section)... From memory I used some orange goo remover stuff (can't remember brand)(on a rag), clean then shellite. You've gotta be careful not to scratch the insert...But a good buff with novus 3 then 2 should remove any light scratching...
Just take your time and only do the ones which need doing! Post or PM me a pic of the one giving you grief!
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Thanks Marty, I will have a look. P.S any luck with the pic of the knocker?
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Thanks Marty, I will have a look. P.S any luck with the pic of the knocker?
Sorry mate been a bit busy lately......Will do tomorrow night for you.
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I searched high and low and couldn't find a spare for you sorry. I thought I had one but its hiding.
Anyway couple of pics attached of mine.
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Thanks for the image Marty. Sorry for the late response. I did get one and have installed it. Far easier then what I expected. Another thing to add to me limited list of skills. Hehe.