The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Technical Matters => Pinball Repairs / Problems & Assistance => Topic started by: Extra Ball on August 02, 2009, 01:24:47 PM
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The last 2 issues I have to sort out this FT.
The L I E lights (three lanes at top) all work (bulbs fine), but the E lane will not light when rolled-over. It scores, and does know it has been counted towards the L I E bonus. Interesting that rolling over the L lane will light the L and E lanes. Couple this with the extra ball target........the globe is fine, in attract mode it lites-up. But when its time to hit it for an extra ball it doesnt lite-up, how ever hitting it will award an extra ball. I am thinking a connector issue to start with? What ones should I look at?
Thanks
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Sounds like a switch matrix issue?
Go into the switch edges test, and make sure the switches in that area only register one switch - sounds like there is some ghosting (multiple switches registering).
Let us know what you find...
Cheers
Jacob
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I will check that ty, also could this be the problem?
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/Gwind/ftconn002.jpg)
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bloody hell! that can't help!
what the hell has burnt that connector? the switch matrix is a low current 12v circuit - looks like something bad has happened in the past like a short or something under the playfield.
Cheers
Jacob
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bloody hell! that can't help!
what the hell has burnt that connector? the switch matrix is a low current 12v circuit - looks like something bad has happened in the past like a short or something under the playfield.
Cheers
Jacob
That pic is of the GI connectors. I can see that the smaller gauge brown wire has been reconnected from the upper molex(idc) connector to the lower. Will still work as these are parallel. I would change the plug and header pins and reconnect the wire to J120( just to keep it factory)
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Do an individual lamp test and make sure the correct lamp is lighting as well.
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bloody hell! that can't help!
what the hell has burnt that connector? the switch matrix is a low current 12v circuit - looks like something bad has happened in the past like a short or something under the playfield.
Cheers
Jacob
That pic is of the GI connectors. I can see that the smaller gauge brown wire has been reconnected from the upper molex(idc) connector to the lower. Will still work as these are parallel. I would change the plug and header pins and reconnect the wire to J120( just to keep it factory)
Oh yeah, J120 - should have looked closer. Seems to be par for the course that almost every J120 needs replacing... I know I had to on BR and IJ...
Cheers
Jacob
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More info on this issue......I found this disgusting surprise! The connector to the pcb for the L I E lights has been butchered a bit. Someone jumpered a wire from one side to the other. They did this so E will light-up, but using the power from L to do it. Trip L and and E will light....that's bodgy-as. Well I cut-off the jumper and E wont light anymore, and the Extra Ball target wont light now (it only ever did in attract mode). You can score extra ball from the target, and can get E, but they just dont illuminate. I did a switch edge test, and no ghost images, the switches test fine. Any suggestions?
Here is the pic of the messy connector before I cut the jumper off. You can see how they have melted the connector whilst soldering that thick wire.
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/Gwind/pinprob002.jpg)
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I hate IDC connectors !
That will be an issue that you should deal with. I'd replace it with standard molex 0.156 connectors/pins - You can find these on our Sponsor's websites.
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Nino because these wires are a loop thats pushed into the IDC (thats how it looks to me), will I need to cut them in half, and twist to make a single wire to change to molex connector? Can I use the pins that are allready in the small pcb with the molex? (not wanting to change the pins at this stage, cant solder well lol). I have crimping tool, and know how to replace the older style connector spade thingies.
Thanks
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Nino because these wires are a loop thats pushed into the IDC (thats how it looks to me), will I need to cut them in half, and twist to make a single wire to change to molex connector? Can I use the pins that are allready in the small pcb with the molex? (not wanting to change the pins at this stage, cant solder well lol). I have crimping tool, and know how to replace the older style connector spade thingies.
Thanks
Greg - I know exactly what you mean, and I wish I had pictures of my method. I can be done. But you need to solder to do a good job.
You cannot use the existing pins in the Molex housing.
I think you may have to purchase a replacement IDC connector and pins. You will need the insertion tool. This is probably your best option.
Sponsors should stock what you need. Keep us updated.
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Thanks for your advice Nino, will get this fixed one way or another.
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Did a single lamp test and found I actually have almost a complete row of lamps 18 28 38 48 58 68 78 non functioning (put new globes in to make sure). The only lamp on that row that works is lamp 88 the start button. Note Red-Grey wire is common to all these lamps. I have checked them all physically, no wires seem to be loose or disconnected, Checked the connector on the board, it to looks fine. I am a novice at all this, and am absolutely stumped by it.
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Greg - Start Button is outside the switch matrix (from memory).
Could be the connector - even if it looks OK - Push in the individual wires with a small flat-head screwdriver.
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A break-through maybe? I emailed Wotto, and asked for a pic of his L I E connector. Anyone notice a difference? I have since cut that large jumper wire away, but what difference is getting me excited?
Wotto's connector:
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/Gwind/wotto.jpg)
My poor connector:
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/Gwind/pinprob002-1.jpg)
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Did a single lamp test and found I actually have almost a complete row of lamps 18 28 38 48 58 68 78 non functioning (put new globes in to make sure). The only lamp on that row that works is lamp 88 the start button. Note Red-Grey wire is common to all these lamps. I have checked them all physically, no wires seem to be loose or disconnected, Checked the connector on the board, it to looks fine. I am a novice at all this, and am absolutely stumped by it.
I mentioned earlier in this thread to do a single lamp test. Start button is part of the lamp matrix. Check continuity from the last wire in the string to the connector in the backbox, a visual check isnt enough.
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Greg - Start Button is outside the switch matrix (from memory).
Could be the connector - even if it looks OK - Push in the individual wires with a small flat-head screwdriver.
Switch 88 would be part of the switch matrix.
Check allconnections as Nino suggested.
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Greg - Start Button is outside the switch matrix (from memory).
Could be the connector - even if it looks OK - Push in the individual wires with a small flat-head screwdriver.
Switch 88 would be part of the switch matrix.
Check allconnections as Nino suggested.
thanks, did you see the photos I posted earlier in this thread.......thinking the wires are just in the wrong order
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Greg - Start Button is outside the switch matrix (from memory).
Could be the connector - even if it looks OK - Push in the individual wires with a small flat-head screwdriver.
Switch 88 would be part of the switch matrix.
Check allconnections as Nino suggested.
thanks, did you see the photos I posted earlier in this thread.......thinking the wires are just in the wrong order
Yep 2 wires definately in the wrong spot.....was more concerned about the hack and burnt connector.
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Reckon I can get a new connector, and just use a screwdriver to push the wires in? I dont have a IDC inserting tool. The connector looks to have been melted when they put the jumper wire on, shame but at least I worked it out (hopefully).
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Reckon I can get a new connector, and just use a screwdriver to push the wires in? I dont have a IDC inserting tool.
I have worked with IDC connectors for 20 years.....basic rule, not designed for multistranded cables.
You can use a small screwdriver to terminate, be sure to push the wires just above and below the insulation displacement blades otherwise you can damage or spread them wider, making for a worse connection(if that makes sense)
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Just an update. I bought a new molex .156 connector from jaycar (did away with the IDC connector), put it on and it didnt resolve the main problem. What it did do was allow E lane roll-over to be able to be moved so you can score the other L I lanes. So I did fix a problem at least. Also got to use my super-duper crimper from the USA for the first time ;) Gunna take a few days off from fault finding the lamp issue, its done my head in. I've been dreaming about red-grey wires (no joking) lol
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Another update:
Also I found that lamp 28 Jackpot will lite ingame correctly, but in a single or full lamp test will not lite at all. The I lamp of the L I E seems to be flashing, kinda half flashing when the fish lamps are flashing (this started happening after I replaced the connector, and changed the position of 2 wires in the connector).
As it stands on this problem row I have lamp 88 functioning correctly, and lamp 28 functioning ingame when it should be, but not in test mode. Anyone think I have a short somewhere?
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Struck me to check the L I E lights behind the big mermaid plastic. Here is what i found:
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/Gwind/fthacked.jpg)
Some people should not be let near a pinball machine :evil:
Looks like the pcb is fine, but gunna be a bugga of job getting them pins out.
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Cut them off underneath the plastic with some good sidecutters - if you can't get in there then cut the plastic instead - and then desolder each pin individually.
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Cut them off underneath the plastic with some good sidecutters - if you can't get in there then cut the plastic instead - and then desolder each pin individually.
Yep - You can use an exacto or any sharp craft knife to cut off the plastic - Then you can heat the pins from the top, or longer end, and just pull them out with a pair of pliers. Clean up excess solder off the board and you could sand the solder pads with 360 Grit wet/dry. Solder in new connector pins.
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Cut them off underneath the plastic with some good sidecutters - if you can't get in there then cut the plastic instead - and then desolder each pin individually.
- Then you can heat the pins from the top, or longer end, and just pull them out with a pair of pliers.
wish you had posted this a day earlier Nino, I got the job done, am not real happy with the way it looks, but it works............BUT it didnt fix the lamp matrix issue &^&
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Woohoo! Jumped for joy and woke my sleeping dog in the shed when I found this today:
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/Gwind/woohoo001.jpg)
Re-joined it and all those lights now function!
How a wire was broken in its harness is anyones guess.
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Good news - #*#
Dont ya love those little hidden things that frustrate you for weeks *!@ :lol *!@
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Well done. Perserverence pays off.
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Because the problem was so frustrating I did need ask alot of questions, and put much of the answers into practice. So I have learnt quite a bit during the experience, and am stoked I repaired my own machine. #*#
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Greg - Lose wires in the wiring harness sometimes get caught on things - like the speaker screws and cable ties etc..
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Greg - Lose wires in the wiring harness sometimes get caught on things - like the speaker screws and cable ties etc..
ah makes sense Nino, that harness is really close to the speaker
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Well done, nothing quite like the feeling of getting your pinball going 100% again.
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Yep, now am considering LEDs. Time for FT to glow. %$%
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Greg - Lose wires in the wiring harness sometimes get caught on things - like the speaker screws and cable ties etc..
I can vouch for that *%*
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Greg - Lose wires in the wiring harness sometimes get caught on things - like the speaker screws and cable ties etc..
I can vouch for that *%*
I just posted in your FT light thread...... lol