The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Technical Matters => Pinball Repairs / Problems & Assistance => Topic started by: pinball god on December 17, 2008, 09:13:58 PM
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Have just got my new star wars ep1 and will post some pictures shortly. Am very pleased with the purchase and the condition is A1, but a couple of teething problems (I hope).
Had no errors initially but with the move I get 2 reported problems of which they are identical "Left ramp Make" switch broken and the "right ramp Make" switch broken. I can't seem to find an indication of what type of switch it is but I think they are the reed switches at the top of the ramp. Can anyone suggest a starting point.
Also I think the right flipper is not as strong as the left one. It doesn't seem to have as much response/punch. It feels like a similar problem I had with my TZ whereby I cleaned the optos but would like advise for this system of flipper control.
Thanks in advance
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The first thing to do is put the machine into the switch test, and run a ball around both ramps. If both switches you mentioned register, then they are both fine, and just means that those shots haven't been made in around 50 games.
If they don't register, then check the following switches to see if they work:
Shield Popper
Left Shield Target
Right Shield Target
Shield Up
Shield Hit
If some of the above don't work also, then check the wiring under the playfield - you probably have a broken wire.
If all of the above switches don't work, then you have a switch column fault, and this will be somewhere on the driver board under the playfield, but may be a broken wire.
If all of the above switches work, then the two you mentioned are faulty, so first check the wiring for broken wires, but you may need to replace them.
Unfortunately, the manual I have here does not list a part number for either of the non-working switches, so I'm not sure exactly what they are without going out to my workshop and looking at the SWEP1 I have here...
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Just checked the one I have here, and the two switches you have not working are definitely Reed Switches.
One thing I forgot to mention, these switches have plugs under the playfield, so check that they have not come loose.
Hopefully this helps you Rob...
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Have just got my new star wars ep1 and will post some pictures shortly. Am very pleased with the purchase and the condition is A1, but a couple of teething problems (I hope).
Had no errors initially but with the move I get 2 reported problems of which they are identical "Left ramp Make" switch broken and the "right ramp Make" switch broken. I can't seem to find an indication of what type of switch it is but I think they are the reed switches at the top of the ramp. Can anyone suggest a starting point.
Also I think the right flipper is not as strong as the left one. It doesn't seem to have as much response/punch. It feels like a similar problem I had with my TZ whereby I cleaned the optos but would like advise for this system of flipper control.
Thanks in advance
Did you update the game code to 1.4? I know star wars had a lot of issues with the base game code. Even if the switches are bad make sure to update the code.
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thanks guys will look at these suggestions. One thing I have found with the swep1 is doing simple things can be difficult or a major operation. Those plugs for the reed switched look like requiring to remove the big ramp. I read the manual and laughed to see what is involved to replace a globe on a pop bumper:
1. remove the light saber
2. remove to small ramp
3. remove the big ramp
4. remove the plastic
5 remove the pop bumper cap and what do you know....there's the globe
removing the above leave about one screw left on the entire machine LOL
BTW I'm hoping Owen's right about the last 50 games thing as this is the easiest option
thanks again
One last thing...is it a major thing or a risky process updating the software. The machine works great and i'd hate to stuff up. What do you think Chuck
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thanks guys will look at these suggestions. One thing I have found with the swep1 is doing simple things can be difficult or a major operation. Those plugs for the reed switched look like requiring to remove the big ramp. I read the manual and laughed to see what is involved to replace a globe on a pop bumper:
1. remove the light saber
2. remove to small ramp
3. remove the big ramp
4. remove the plastic
5 remove the pop bumper cap and what do you know....there's the globe
removing the above leave about one screw left on the entire machine LOL
BTW I'm hoping Owen's right about the last 50 games thing as this is the easiest option
thanks again
One last thing...is it a major thing or a risky process updating the software. The machine works great and i'd hate to stuff up. What do you think Chuck
I hope I'm right for your sake too Rob!
Updating the software isn't hard to do, and is recommended. If you would like, I can do it for you once I get back from holidays (Don't have time now before Christmas). But you should be fine on your own with this.
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Thanks Owen will probably take you up on the offer as I think the RH flipper may need looking at and a couple of other things. BTW the LH ramp error disappeared yesterday and the ramp combo function stopped working. Now the LH ramp error has reappered and the combo's work fine again. Go figure!!! My s/w ver is 1.3 as well
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Thanks Owen will probably take you up on the offer as I think the RH flipper may need looking at and a couple of other things. BTW the LH ramp error disappeared yesterday and the ramp combo function stopped working. Now the LH ramp error has reappered and the combo's work fine again. Go figure!!! My s/w ver is 1.3 as well
No probs mate... give me a call mid January.
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Done and have a great Xmas and safe holiday up North. But stay away from Mark ok....he'll probably lead you astray
**** quick update, and I think Chuck is on t it. The ramp errors disappeared all by themselves. But no I don't get combo points. Its like the ramp made detect works when in error and not when ok. Am I right in thinking maybe the program Roms may be in need of updating (got V1.3)?
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Another update seeing I jave had time to look during my holiday break.
Replaced the coil sleeve on the right flipper and its as strong as can be now so problem solved
While having a bit of a hunt to replace a couple of blown globes, I noticed a orphan cable connector which I could trace back to the ramp reed switches. So pluged it in and the're a goer as well. What time on your hand can achieve!!
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Star wars shipped with very preliminary code .7 I think. 1.3 is pretty good, 1.4 is what you want ;-)
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Star wars shipped with very preliminary code .7 I think. 1.3 is pretty good, 1.4 is what you want ;-)
Will get onto it asap, I've got to find the point outs for a null modem cable, I used to know them but have forgotten. I think I still remember 25p-25p
1 - chasis
2 -3
3 - 2
7 - 7
4 & 5 jumpered
6, 8 & 20 jumpered?? I used this on CNC machines for DNC connections
If you can confirm this for me Chuck it would be great, but would prefer 9p - 9p as I need to get a hold of a notebook with serial ports. My new one only has usb of course.
BTW do you know if there are many (if any) RFM conversion kits avail anywhere?
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Star wars shipped with very preliminary code .7 I think. 1.3 is pretty good, 1.4 is what you want ;-)
Will get onto it asap, I've got to find the point outs for a null modem cable, I used to know them but have forgotten. I think I still remember 25p-25p
1 - chasis
2 -3
3 - 2
7 - 7
4 & 5 jumpered
6, 8 & 20 jumpered?? I used this on CNC machines for DNC connections
If you can confirm this for me Chuck it would be great, but would prefer 9p - 9p as I need to get a hold of a notebook with serial ports. My new one only has usb of course.
BTW do you know if there are many (if any) RFM conversion kits avail anywhere?
I think the manual has the rs-232 pinouts. They are standard cross-over config IFAIR.
I don't think there was ever a rfm "kit." I could be wrong though. I know there are still episode one kits nos around. I think rfm kits came from machines that had bad computers :p
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Thanks Chuck will check the manual