The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: JD on October 10, 2010, 08:52:31 PM
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Well it is time to get into the restore of my Jungle Queen 1977 Gottlieb pinball.
This will be more of a tidy up than a restore given the extent of restoration I have seen on this site but here goes.
First some before pics.
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A few more
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The apron was sanded, painted and decals applied from pinball rescue. Then put aside ready for assembly.
I was pleased with how these came back to life.
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I had some problems with the rail retaining screws so needed to drill them out and dowel the cabinet. See photos as attached. I was pleased with the quality of this repair. Nothing worse than misaligned and loose screws holding down the rails. They get caught on the rags when polishing the machine!
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Here's the pics
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Painting of the cabinet has taken a while too but coming together well.
I am looking forward to using the stencils I got from Gav (Retropin) this week and putting some colour on the machine.
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With the playfield stripped and about to go back together, I find some paint damage which will need to be dealt with some how.
Some was there beforehand and some occurred when the mylar was lifted. All in all looks pretty good all minor, I think.. Any ideas or opinions would be appreciated. I am not sure whether to use a texta then mylar or touch up paint. Or leave it and polish. Any thoughts?
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Looking really good so far JD
For the playfield touch ups I'd use some of the enamel paints from the model shop hopefully they will have very similar colors and there positions on the playfieldnyou should get away with wax as there not in the main area of play.
Almost got me tempted to restore my jungle princess cabinet
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Looking really good so far JD
For the playfield touch ups I'd use some of the enamel paints from the model shop hopefully they will have very similar colors and there positions on the playfieldnyou should get away with wax as there not in the main area of play.
Almost got me tempted to restore my jungle princess cabinet
Thanks Daniel.
I will try to match this as you say.
When you say wax, do you mean Novus 1,2,3 or something else?
J.D.
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That's a really good start there JD ^^^
I usually do the apron last - no idea why, but yours came up a treat. How did you spray the cab ? Cans of paint or compressor etc ?
Keep the updates coming.
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I sprayed with a cans Nino. I had trouble matching but ended up with a killrust enamel colour so let's see how it goes with the orange and black. I usually paint with a gun but first go this way on the base.
I know it looks a bit patchy inside which I will fix.
J.D.
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This will be more of a tidy up than a restore
Given you are doing a cabinet repaint, removed mylar, play field rebuild etc I'd say you are are more than entitled to call this a restore! The pro's doing their work are great, but that shouldn't discourage the rest of us mugs from showing our efforts.
The play field damage looks pretty small and I don't reckon would stand out too much even if you did nothing. Will you fill the extra holes? It seems wrong to me to put mylar back on after all this work and for a home use machine that will be keep clean, but I have no experience on how it will wear,
Looks really good so far, keep the updates coming ^^^
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I would call it a restore JD, will look great when you have finished. ^^^
Regarding the mylar etc, I have kept my QD constantly waxed since I removed its mylar but I reckon I'm starting to get some small wear after about a year, nothing at all major just little specks here and there, others may have different experience, but if its a keeper I would be putting some protection down, I will be clearing mine when I get around to it.
Cheers
Dave
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Great start JD. Looking forward to watching your resto progress ^^^
Cheers
Dave
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This will be more of a tidy up than a restore
Given you are doing a cabinet repaint, removed mylar, play field rebuild etc I'd say you are are more than entitled to call this a restore! The pro's doing their work are great, but that shouldn't discourage the rest of us mugs from showing our efforts.
The play field damage looks pretty small and I don't reckon would stand out too much even if you did nothing. Will you fill the extra holes? It seems wrong to me to put mylar back on after all this work and for a home use machine that will be keep clean, but I have no experience on how it will wear,
Looks really good so far, keep the updates coming ^^^
Just got to remember which ones are the right ones and then I will fill em!
J.D.
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I would call it a restore JD, will look great when you have finished. ^^^
Regarding the mylar etc, I have kept my QD constantly waxed since I removed its mylar but I reckon I'm starting to get some small wear after about a year, nothing at all major just little specks here and there, others may have different experience, but if its a keeper I would be putting some protection down, I will be clearing mine when I get around to it.
Cheers
Dave
thanks Dave. I have a Sinbad that Nino polished when he restored and it shows no sign of wear. Would look better without the Mylar I think so far!
J.D.
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Hi Jd after touch ups give the playfield a polish with novus 2 followed by 4 to 5 coats of canuba wax
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Hi Jd after touch ups give the playfield a polish with novus 2 followed by 4 to 5 coats of canuba wax
Sounds good Thanks Daniel.
Since Nino asked about the paint last night I thought I would give it one more coat! Which I just did.
The comment Firepower made I was jokeing with my response assuming the holes that look like they were most / last used. What are the other ones for? If to make the game harder how do I find the combinations and outcomes?
J.D.
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Usually there are conservative and liberal settings for some of the playfield posts . These are shown in the game manual, if you have it.
Cheers
Dave
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looking good so far ^^^ ^^^ The backglass looks to be in pretty good condition.
Your Cab repaint looks sweet as well! Are you planning on re-doing the black speckles before the stencils go on?
I use an old toothbrush with enamel paint thinned with some thinners to do this on my cab repaints that had this effect originally
Cheers... Mitch
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Thanks Dave.
Mitch, that sounds an interesting way to do it.
Yes I am keen to try this. This was a major feature of the original paintwork.
J.D.
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Looks great!! Fun playing game too, I've had a go on Daniel's and really liked this game.
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Hey JD, keep the updates coming, and looking very nice! I kinda miss my Jungle Princess which I let go a few months ago. Just love the Gottlieb EMs.
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Hey JD, keep the updates coming, and looking very nice! I kinda miss my Jungle Princess which I let go a few months ago. Just love the Gottlieb EMs.
Steve thanks for your help with the orange paint colour. The closest white I could find was surfmist so hopefully it will be close.
That Jungle Queen you had was the best I have seen and when I looked at the price on egay I was amazed. I have the photos as a standard to aspire to.
J.D.
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JD,
Great work and please keep updating us on your progress. I will be interested in the playfield touch ups and how it comes up but really looks great as it is!
Jeff
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Mitch, that sounds an interesting way to do it.
Yes I am keen to try this. This was a major feature of the original paintwork.
J.D.
Its a trick i learned from Clays repair guides..
I just dip the brush into the thinned paint as i said, and scrape the brush bristles with a paddlepop stick or piece of plastic etc, scraping towards me whilst facing the cab surface with the brush.. if that makes sense, thus creating the small dots of paint. I'll be using this trick on my Quick Draw cab come respray time which will be very soon, weather permitting!!
Make sure you practice the technique onto cardboard first though!!
And yes i give that last piece of advice learned from bitter experience ^&^
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OK another quick update on this Jungle Queen!
I used the stencils I bought from Retropin (Gavin) at a great price and locally. He could not be more helpful and given I have done this twice before with Gorgar and Playboy, I found these stencils easier to use as adhesion was better and the darker colour made the process more foolproof. I am comparing to purchasing from the USA. 1st colour coat for now.
I am very pleased with this result.
J.D.
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Hi Jd after touch ups give the playfield a polish with novus 2 followed by 4 to 5 coats of canuba wax
Where do I buy Canuba wax Daniel?
J.D.
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Hi Jd
You can buy canuba wax from any auto store. I'm using mothers gold I think it called and other have had good things to say about another brand but I can't remember it's name. Check out my Marathon restore there are some photos of it on there from memory.
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=1162.0
Cabs looking sweet already
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JD, when you were spraying the cab with the painted surface being vertical, did you have any issues with paint "pooling" at the bottom? I presume not, as you would probably apply a thin coat with every spray. Just wondering if the painted surface should be horizontal. I've never done cabinet spray .... but the day is coming that I will need to.
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JD, when you were spraying the cab with the painted surface being vertical, did you have any issues with paint "pooling" at the bottom? I presume not, as you would probably apply a thin coat with every spray. Just wondering if the painted surface should be horizontal. I've never done cabinet spray .... but the day is coming that I will need to.
I have done all mine vertically like this. On this occasion I was going to do it like you say but Gavin suggested I paint all the same colour at once so both sides would have the stencil on and the side not being painted would be on the rocking horse and could potentially get damaged. Also, it is easier to line up the stencil with the side vertical so the top edge is lined up and stuck and then progressively stuck using the weight of the stencil to hold it away from the box.
Over to you.
J.d.
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Another busy night but an amazing result!
Again very pleased but can see as Gavin said that the orange was a warm up for the black. Lots of edges etc with the last stencil.
As the stencil came off WOW! unbelievable.
Have a little problem with the white background in one top corner (that I will fix afterwards) but these stencils are first class!
I will let it dry and see if I am game to try the pinbologist toothbrush technique.
Could not look much better!
J.D.
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Man JD that's f@&kin awsome.
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Man JD that's f@&kin awsome.
Thanks, thinking about your jungle princess yet?
J.D.
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Looks bloody great!!
Really pleased this all worked well for you. Aligning the 2nd stencil is make or break on a cab repaint and its really nice for me to see the end result of my stencils.
Thank you so much for posting... that cab looks sensational!
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Yes Jd I'm seriously thinking about doing mine nowdamn it like I don't already have enough to do lol. You may just get another order out of this thread Gav your stencils make it look so easy
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Supurb Result so far JD ^^^
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Thats Tiger looks great JD ^^^
Being a Richmond supporter I could see a Jungle Queen in my collection one day.
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Another busy night but an amazing result!
Again very pleased but can see as Gavin said that the orange was a warm up for the black. Lots of edges etc with the last stencil.
As the stencil came off WOW! unbelievable.
Have a little problem with the white background in one top corner (that I will fix afterwards) but these stencils are first class!
I will let it dry and see if I am game to try the pinbologist toothbrush technique.
Could not look much better!
J.D.
The black speckling really should've been done before the stencils went on, please dont take that as me being a nit picker.. i think it looks GREAT how it is
^^^ ^^^ ^^^ I Just went and had a look at my Quickdraw cab to confirm this... colours are sprayed over the black speckling.
You COULD still do the black dots, it would just involve some masking off the the orange parts, so thay wouldnt get any black on them, and still retain the original look. I know some people dont do the black speckling because they dont like that look and prefer a cleaner looking cab finish which can be just as nice.
Its really up to you if you want the speckling or not, as everyone has said so far it looks AWESOME as it is @@* @@* @@*
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Another busy night but an amazing result!
Again very pleased but can see as Gavin said that the orange was a warm up for the black. Lots of edges etc with the last stencil.
As the stencil came off WOW! unbelievable.
Have a little problem with the white background in one top corner (that I will fix afterwards) but these stencils are first class!
I will let it dry and see if I am game to try the pinbologist toothbrush technique.
Could not look much better!
J.D.
The black speckling really should've been done before the stencils went on, please dont take that as me being a nit picker.. i think it looks GREAT how it is
^^^ ^^^ ^^^ I Just went and had a look at my Quickdraw cab to confirm this... colours are sprayed over the black speckling.
You COULD still do the black dots, it would just involve some masking off the the orange parts, so thay wouldnt get any black on them, and still retain the original look. I know some people dont do the black speckling because they dont like that look and prefer a cleaner looking cab finish which can be just as nice.
Its really up to you if you want the speckling or not, as everyone has said so far it looks AWESOME as it is @@* @@* @@*
Lucky you told me that. Thanks.
I might just think about it for the weekend and see..
Thanks J.D.
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Looks GREAT! ^^^ I'm about to finish a 'Pro Football' artwork respray this weekend. I'll post some pics when complete.
I prefer not to black speckle, however it is up to the restorer.
GT
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Hey isnt this only supposed to be a tidy up .
Looks brilliant the stencils are first class Well done #*#
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Thanks Faza that ID moving picture is hard to beat too.
J.D.
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That looks really really nice mate @@*
Nearly makes me want en EM &&
Gav - congrats on the stencils ^^^
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Speckling is applied after the base coat. This WAS how it was done in the factory. But restoration is a personal thing - so don't let the speckling (or lack of) detract from such an AWESOME resto repaint.
Keep in mind the "reason" behind the application of the speckles ! They were painted on the cabinet to distract from the stenciled artwork. "Back in the day" they had brass or copper stencils pressed against the cabinet and the paint was sprayed on in a couple of minutes. The distance between the stencil plate and the cabinet would determine the amount of under-spray and over-spray. The NEXT stencil plate for the next color would be placed over the first and the registration would never be perfect. Combine the over-spray, under-spray and registration issues, and you have a painted cabinet. They were never perfect. So the idea was to have the speckles to distract the imperfections in the cabinet.
So a "true" restoration (is there such a thing?) would incorporate all the flaws of the original methods - over-spray, under-spray and speckles. I tried this a couple of times and it is labor intensive. You need acetate sheets with the images to be painted cut out. This will give you the over-spray and under-spray. Speckles are easy. Registration "flaws" can be done easily.
The low tack adhesive stencils available on the market are perfect - no flaws. You really cannot make a mistake. No over-spray etc. So why bother with speckles ?
I will be using Gav's stencils on quite a few machines, and I've nothing but great feedback !
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WOW looks fantastic ^^^
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Well done, great results that's one really good looking cat and cab ^^^
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Speckling is applied after the base coat. This WAS how it was done in the factory. But restoration is a personal thing - so don't let the speckling (or lack of) detract from such an AWESOME resto repaint.
Keep in mind the "reason" behind the application of the speckles ! They were painted on the cabinet to distract from the stenciled artwork. "Back in the day" they had brass or copper stencils pressed against the cabinet and the paint was sprayed on in a couple of minutes. The distance between the stencil plate and the cabinet would determine the amount of under-spray and over-spray. The NEXT stencil plate for the next color would be placed over the first and the registration would never be perfect. Combine the over-spray, under-spray and registration issues, and you have a painted cabinet. They were never perfect. So the idea was to have the speckles to distract the imperfections in the cabinet.
So a "true" restoration (is there such a thing?) would incorporate all the flaws of the original methods - over-spray, under-spray and speckles. I tried this a couple of times and it is labor intensive. You need acetate sheets with the images to be painted cut out. This will give you the over-spray and under-spray. Speckles are easy. Registration "flaws" can be done easily.
The low tack adhesive stencils available on the market are perfect - no flaws. You really cannot make a mistake. No over-spray etc. So why bother with speckles ?
I will be using Gav's stencils on quite a few machines, and I've nothing but great feedback !
Thanks for the info and feedback Nino.
J.D.
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The cabinet is now finished and moved to the games room for assembly. I am working on the headbox re-paint and found 4 brackets (2 top and 2 bottom, top 2 and bottom 2 different shapes) which I am not sure what they are for. They will need a lot of work as they are rusted fairly well. If they are of no value I will fill the holes and throw over my shoulder. If not I will restore. Help???
The photo shows the top brackets.
J.D.
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I have a couple of GTBs of this vintage and neither of them have these extra brackets. Maybe some after market security idea?
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Over the shoulder with those..
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Over the shoulder with those..
Thanks Firepower,
Gavin what are they?
J.D.
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There right JD throw em never seen them before
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Nothing to do with pinball....... looks like some sort of mod so a previous owner can sit something on the top of it and not have it fall off
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Here is the cabinet paint final with black tower.
Another one of the brackets, this time on the bottom of the headbox. Any ideas?
J.D.
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Looks like some sort of custom latching bar setup for the back of the headbox.
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Looks like some sort of custom latching bar setup for the back of the headbox.
+1
Can't see why this would be done as there's no need to prevent (with this setup) the back door from being opened.
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Maybe it was easier to create a whole new locking system than buy a new lock :tumble:
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get rid of it and fill the holes. *%*
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Already done so.
Thanks to all.
J.D.
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Ok another quick update.
Very pleased with the paint and stencils. Although clearly the most work (for me anyway), this is also the most rewarding as they come back back together after a while (and I get to re-claim my garage).
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Here's a couple more
J.D.
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Looking great JD. ^^^
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How sweet does that look !
There is a great sense of achievement when the game finally moves from the garage into the gamesroom.
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How sweet does that look !
There is a great sense of achievement when the game finally moves from the garage into the gamesroom.
Absolutely. It also represents a midway point where the garage can get cleaned from spray paint and dust. Armed with a cold beer (or two), the rest can be completed at my own pace!
J.D.
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Top work JD she look beautiful must be a great feeling mating the head to the body for the first time
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Top work JD she look beautiful must be a great feeling mating the head to the body for the first time
Absolutely Daniel.
Putting the board in the back box frame afterwards was a heavy and awkward challenge particularly with the additional height.
Not long to go now.
J.D.
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@@* @@* @@* @@* @@* @@* @@* @@*
Greg
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Fantastic result from the stencils. Really impressive.
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Very nice *%*
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Dang those stencils are sharp!!
Love the games room too - lovely lineup of titles right there #*#
Have really enjoyed following this one, keep the updates coming
Timbo
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Awesome work, JD. That's coming along great.
I'll have to call over soon.
cheers Steve.
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Looking very good.
I've got a fully restored jungle princess everything rebuit looks and plays like new great game. Only let down on mine is the backglass probably only rate it 5 or 6 so if anyone has a nice one please let me know.
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Top work stencils look great #*#
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Top work stencils look great #*#
Thanks Faza
Top work with the avatar too.
J.D.
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Couple of questions for the Gurus.
I just bought 4 boxes of 555 bulbs but find they are wrong. My error in ordering these. Can someone confirm the bulb type for under the playfield?
Also what do 555's fit? I have 4 boxes that are no use to me?
Also pinball rescue will not make the plastics for me unless they have more demand. Does anyone know where I can get the perspex to make the plastics from? I am thinking of having a go myself.
Otherwise she is going together well.
J.D.
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You need GE44 or #47 bulbs... these are the standard bayonet type.
The perspex can be bought from any sheet supplier... look in you yellow pages under SIGNS.. will have a few local suppliers of acrylic sheet.... standard size is 1220 X 2440mm though, so unless you want a lot, then find a sign guy that will cut you some down.
Youll need 2mm thickness to exactly replace, but i often use 3mm
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Thanks Gav
That's 2 out of 2.
J.D.
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You need GE44 or #47 bulbs... these are the standard bayonet type.
The perspex can be bought from any sheet supplier... look in you yellow pages under SIGNS.. will have a few local suppliers of acrylic sheet.... standard size is 1220 X 2440mm though, so unless you want a lot, then find a sign guy that will cut you some down.
Youll need 2mm thickness to exactly replace, but i often use 3mm
+1
Playfield is coming up AWESOME !
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She's looking pretty Schmik JD ^^^ ^^^
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Couple of questions for the Gurus.
I just bought 4 boxes of 555 bulbs but find they are wrong. My error in ordering these. Can someone confirm the bulb type for under the playfield?
Also what do 555's fit? I have 4 boxes that are no use to me?
Also pinball rescue will not make the plastics for me unless they have more demand. Does anyone know where I can get the perspex to make the plastics from? I am thinking of having a go myself.
Otherwise she is going together well.
J.D.
Why not try LED's, they look great and use much less power with no heat.
If you get warm white the light is fairly close to bulb light.
I have used these in Gottlieb sys1 machines for feature and GI lights and they work great:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140338360011&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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Couple of questions for the Gurus.
I just bought 4 boxes of 555 bulbs but find they are wrong. My error in ordering these. Can someone confirm the bulb type for under the playfield?
Also what do 555's fit? I have 4 boxes that are no use to me?
Also pinball rescue will not make the plastics for me unless they have more demand. Does anyone know where I can get the perspex to make the plastics from? I am thinking of having a go myself.
Otherwise she is going together well.
J.D.
Why not try LED's, they look great and use much less power with no heat.
If you get warm white the light is fairly close to bulb light.
I have used these in Gottlieb sys1 machines for feature and GI lights and they work great:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140338360011&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Thanks for your suggestion Boots. I'm afraid i'm a bit too conservative with my Jungle queen and it's originality.
J.D.
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GE47 use less current than the 44 and so give off less heat.
LED use even less current but the amount of power saved is negligable in all honesty... a couple of watts at 6v is piffle.
Coloured LED behind coloured inserts CAN look better as it gives more depth of colour, but any AC ripple can cause strobing and its very irritating.
LED in an EM??? God forbid!
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You need GE44 or #47 bulbs... these are the standard bayonet type.
The perspex can be bought from any sheet supplier... look in you yellow pages under SIGNS.. will have a few local suppliers of acrylic sheet.... standard size is 1220 X 2440mm though, so unless you want a lot, then find a sign guy that will cut you some down.
Youll need 2mm thickness to exactly replace, but i often use 3mm
Most sign writers/plastic suppliers will usually sell offcut pieces, usually large enough to make several plastics from, without them having to cut a large sheet (which will cost more). I always use polycarbonate plastic sheet to make pf plastics, as i always thought perspex would be too brittle. I DID find that to be the case when i started trying to make my own plastics, using perspex, i've had them break while trying to drill them for the post screws ^&^ Polycarbonate seems to be more durable.
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You need GE44 or #47 bulbs... these are the standard bayonet type.
The perspex can be bought from any sheet supplier... look in you yellow pages under SIGNS.. will have a few local suppliers of acrylic sheet.... standard size is 1220 X 2440mm though, so unless you want a lot, then find a sign guy that will cut you some down.
Youll need 2mm thickness to exactly replace, but i often use 3mm
Most sign writers/plastic suppliers will usually sell offcut pieces, usually large enough to make several plastics from, without them having to cut a large sheet (which will cost more). I always use polycarbonate plastic sheet to make pf plastics, as i always thought perspex would be too brittle. I DID find that to be the case when i started trying to make my own plastics, using perspex, i've had them break while trying to drill them for the post screws ^&^ Polycarbonate seems to be more durable.
Theres a knack to drilling plastics.
use a blunt drill bit, or a masonry bit, or use drill in reverse, or place sheet on top of some MDF etc and drill through that way - VERY carefully.
What happens with a sharp drill bit is that it grabs as it goes through instead of cut.. this causes cracking.
Just at the point of the bit pushing through, you should be drilling very slowly with no push on your part.
But in all honesty, a blunt bit works best, if i HAVE to use a new bit, i run it up a brick wall first whilst running the drill... just to take the very edge of it.
Youll find any platics worker will have a collection of blunt bits... gold dust to us
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You need GE44 or #47 bulbs... these are the standard bayonet type.
The perspex can be bought from any sheet supplier... look in you yellow pages under SIGNS.. will have a few local suppliers of acrylic sheet.... standard size is 1220 X 2440mm though, so unless you want a lot, then find a sign guy that will cut you some down.
Youll need 2mm thickness to exactly replace, but i often use 3mm
Most sign writers/plastic suppliers will usually sell offcut pieces, usually large enough to make several plastics from, without them having to cut a large sheet (which will cost more). I always use polycarbonate plastic sheet to make pf plastics, as i always thought perspex would be too brittle. I DID find that to be the case when i started trying to make my own plastics, using perspex, i've had them break while trying to drill them for the post screws ^&^ Polycarbonate seems to be more durable.
Theres a knack to drilling plastics.
use a blunt drill bit, or a masonry bit, or use drill in reverse, or place sheet on top of some MDF etc and drill through that way - VERY carefully.
What happens with a sharp drill bit is that it grabs as it goes through instead of cut.. this causes cracking.
Just at the point of the bit pushing through, you should be drilling very slowly with no push on your part.
But in all honesty, a blunt bit works best, if i HAVE to use a new bit, i run it up a brick wall first whilst running the drill... just to take the very edge of it.
Youll find any platics worker will have a collection of blunt bits... gold dust to us
I usually place the plastic down, as you say onto some MDF to drill the holes, while holding the plastic down firmly, and very little pressure on the drill bit. And you're right Gavin, blunter drill bits do work better.
lately I've been using a Dremel to do the holes, using a normal drill bit to do a starter hole, then enlarging with a dremel and a small grinding bit to enlarge to the correct size. Care is still needed so as not to slip and scratch the surface of the plastic with the Dremel bit!
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Thanks Gents. Really great to be able to tap into your experience and avoid a catastrophe.
Appreciate your advice and help.
J.D.
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You need GE44 or #47 bulbs... these are the standard bayonet type.
The perspex can be bought from any sheet supplier... look in you yellow pages under SIGNS.. will have a few local suppliers of acrylic sheet.... standard size is 1220 X 2440mm though, so unless you want a lot, then find a sign guy that will cut you some down.
Youll need 2mm thickness to exactly replace, but i often use 3mm
Most sign writers/plastic suppliers will usually sell offcut pieces, usually large enough to make several plastics from, without them having to cut a large sheet (which will cost more). I always use polycarbonate plastic sheet to make pf plastics, as i always thought perspex would be too brittle. I DID find that to be the case when i started trying to make my own plastics, using perspex, i've had them break while trying to drill them for the post screws ^&^ Polycarbonate seems to be more durable.
Theres a knack to drilling plastics.
use a blunt drill bit, or a masonry bit, or use drill in reverse, or place sheet on top of some MDF etc and drill through that way - VERY carefully.
What happens with a sharp drill bit is that it grabs as it goes through instead of cut.. this causes cracking.
Just at the point of the bit pushing through, you should be drilling very slowly with no push on your part.
But in all honesty, a blunt bit works best, if i HAVE to use a new bit, i run it up a brick wall first whilst running the drill... just to take the very edge of it.
Youll find any platics worker will have a collection of blunt bits... gold dust to us
Polycarbonate is a lot less brittle than perspex (acrylic) but is does scratch easier.
Using a blunt drill is sort of the right idea because brittle materials need a negative cutting angle otherwise the cutting tool grabs and digs-in.
To do this get any normal drill bit and grind a very small flat on the front cutting edges, this will reduce the risk of the drill grabbing and pulling through the plastic and chipping it.
Also clamp a piece of scrap plastic underneath and that will give you a much cleaner hole.
Using a blunt drill bit may create extra heat and cause a lumpy burred hole instead of a nice clean drilled hole.
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How is the backglass? I was chasing and found a Jungle Princess back glass in the US in great nic for $125us. Was about to buy it when the seller advised me that he had made a mistake and it was a Jungle Queen backglass. Can give you his details if required.
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How is the backglass? I was chasing and found a Jungle Princess back glass in the US in great nic for $125us. Was about to buy it when the seller advised me that he had made a mistake and it was a Jungle Queen backglass. Can give you his details if required.
My backglass is fine for what I want but I really appreciate you letting me know about the opportunity.
Many thanks
J.D.
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Haven't done the plastics yet but finished the wiring and plugged her in tonight.
A couple of little things I need to troubleshoot but I was pleasantly surprised.
Anyone know where I can get a manual for the machine?
Any ideas on what would cause all the pop bumper coils to lock on when the game is finalizing the start up?
Some photos tomorrow!
J.D.
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PBR have the manuals and schematics to most Gottliebs. I'll check to see if I have a copy somewhere.
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Thanks.
I have been a bit distracted but the only faults I have left is one of the chime solenoids lock on at startup. There must have been a dimensional difference in the coloured pop bumper disks which will be sorted this week now I know what is needed. These had all three switches energised. A circuit diagram would be handy to see where the feed to the chime solenoid will be coming from if you guys can locate one?
Many thanks
J.D.
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PM me you address. I have a gift for you &&
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G'Day JD. Im new to this site, Not quite sure how it all works yet. Have been reading your Jungle Queen makeover, its looking good . Ive got some schematics for Jungle Princess so if needed let me know & i can email or fax u a copy. Keep up the good work.
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G'Day JD. Im new to this site, Not quite sure how it all works yet. Have been reading your Jungle Queen makeover, its looking good . Ive got some schematics for Jungle Princess so if needed let me know & i can email or fax u a copy. Keep up the good work.
%)% feel free to post a thread in the introduce yourself section here: http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?board=2.0 (http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?board=2.0) $!&
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G'Day JD. Im new to this site, Not quite sure how it all works yet. Have been reading your Jungle Queen makeover, its looking good . Ive got some schematics for Jungle Princess so if needed let me know & i can email or fax u a copy. Keep up the good work.
Many thanks. I have some schematics on their way which will be here shortly but I really appreciate your offer. Once I have sorted the last couple of faults, I will post some updates. The machine looks great!
Cheers
J.D.
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Ok,
Many Many thanks to Nino, I now have the schematics for this machine but I am still struggling i'm afraid.
I have re-assembled Jungle queen and have two faults remaining when the machine is started which I am struggling to sort.
When the front bumper skirt is triggered, the front coil locks on. When the switch contacts are opened, the coil remains locked on.
When either the left or right rear bumper skirts are triggered, both rear bumper coils lock on.
I cannot see why this is happening.
I have not removed any wires from the coils or taken switches out or apart. Must be something upstream but relying on the switch as the initial trigger.
Cosing the contacts on the lower switches does not activate scores either but not sure if this is normal without solenoids installed?
The other problem which may or may not be connected is that on start up the first outer chime box coil locks on also. At this point I have taken the wire off it to sort the coils.
All the other switcheds and solenoids appear to work, backbox, lighting etc.
Any ideas from the Gurus?
J.D.
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It sounds to me like the 100 point or 1000 point relays need adjustment (whatever the value of the pop bumpers are). From memory, the relay picks up the switch (pop bumper skirt switch) and then the 100 point relay pulls in, closing the circuit to the pop bumper coil and the chime. That outer chime box coil is the clue.
The relay is in the head - you will hear it humming when the switch is closed. If you tap it closed with your finger (the relay), it will most likely work. There is an adjustment needed or a wire has come loose.
I wish I had the schematics to verify %.% %.%
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It sounds to me like the 100 point or 1000 point relays need adjustment (whatever the value of the pop bumpers are). From memory, the relay picks up the switch (pop bumper skirt switch) and then the 100 point relay pulls in, closing the circuit to the pop bumper coil and the chime. That outer chime box coil is the clue.
The relay is in the head - you will hear it humming when the switch is closed. If you tap it closed with your finger (the relay), it will most likely work. There is an adjustment needed or a wire has come loose.
I wish I had the schematics to verify %.% %.%
Many Thanks Nino.
I will chase that through and see what I get.
J.D.
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It sounds to me like the 100 point or 1000 point relays need adjustment (whatever the value of the pop bumpers are). From memory, the relay picks up the switch (pop bumper skirt switch) and then the 100 point relay pulls in, closing the circuit to the pop bumper coil and the chime. That outer chime box coil is the clue.
The relay is in the head - you will hear it humming when the switch is closed. If you tap it closed with your finger (the relay), it will most likely work. There is an adjustment needed or a wire has come loose.
I wish I had the schematics to verify %.% %.%
Many Thanks Nino.
I will chase that through and see what I get.
J.D.
Went through my new schematics. (thanks again Nino) relay N was for bumpers and 10 point score. Switched machine on and N relay locked on. I went around the playfield and found a switch locked on. Re-aligned and it stopped chime coil problem thanks. Will reassemble the pop bumpers and re-test but looks great.
Will finish off and get some photos posted.
Many thanks
J.D.
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Good News, JD - Well done ^^^
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Ladies and Gents,
Does anyone have a clear plastic for Jungle queen that I could trace the shape?
I have a picture of the others but not this one unfortunately?
I am sending the machine over to Skybeau's for a final adjustment and to sort that remaining problem too so hopefully all done before Christmas.
J.D.