The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Technical Matters => Pinball Repairs / Problems & Assistance => Topic started by: ktm450 on February 07, 2011, 03:11:07 PM
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Hi guys, I am starting this thread so all you EM gurus around here can help me out as soon as I post my questions, as I really do not have enough time to search or work out things for myself, with family life, work and finishing this pin I'm really under the pump.
As some of you know I recently purchased a Gottlieb Volley on ebay, I plan on restoring it for my fathers 60th birthday in April, he has played tennis most of his life and it is from the era when he was in his early 20's, he has also been talking about setting up a games room since us my youngest brother left home so I thought it would be a great gift.
I plan on posting a resto thread when I am finished but here are a few photos off the ebay listing:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260723517544&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260723517544&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)
So.....
Question 1.
I still have not recieved the pin but I am pretty sure I do not have a manual or schematics for it, does anyone have a copy they could photocopy for me? I am happy to pay for them and postage, send me a pm if you can help out.
Thanks,
Matt.
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While your waiting on the machine matt check out the step by step instructions on rebuilding steppers and score reels. These are usually 90% of EM issues. And if you need any parts be sure to let me know.
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I own a Volley and I think I have the schematics. If not, I'm about to place an order with PBR and I can grab one for you.
Just keep us posted on this thread and we will monitor it so it will be ready on time !
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step by step instructions on rebuilding steppers .
how many steps does it take to rebuild a stepper? @@*
sorry, i just had to point it out
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I will be receiving a manual and schematics for Volley in an order from PBR this week.I am also giving mine a full makeover and have a big order due.If you get what you need put a post up,if not i will copy everything for you and post it to you.
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Thanks for your replys guys, I have found out the pin has arrived down here at the Melb depot, I will be picking it up on tomorrow (Wednesday) morning.
If it definately does not have a set of schematics I will get you to add them to your order Nino, thankyou very much for your offer. I'll send you a pm to confirm tomorrow.
Now to...
Question 2.
Not knowing the last time the flippers were rebuilt I will put a kit through and rebuild them, I have not noticed any local suppliers selling them in 'kit' form, so, what individual items do I need? Not having a manual, and not being familiar with pins of the era, I need some help.
Is this the plunger and link? http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/index.php?crn=271&rn=3052&action=show_detail (http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/index.php?crn=271&rn=3052&action=show_detail)
Are these the flipper bearings? http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/index.php?search%5Bterms%5D=flipper+bearing&search%5Bmode%5D=all&search%5Bcat%5D=&search%5Bsort_by%5D=name_asc (http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/index.php?search%5Bterms%5D=flipper+bearing&search%5Bmode%5D=all&search%5Bcat%5D=&search%5Bsort_by%5D=name_asc)
What Coil Sleeves do I need?
What Coil stops do I need?
Thanks again guys, I'm sure i'll have a few more questions tomorrow after I pick it up *%*
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Matt - I THINK I have a spare PBR flipper kit that I can provide you with that has all the parts and more. I'll check for you tonight.
The only other mandatory parts you will need are ;
A new hold coil, ball, rubber kit..
I'll see if I have the complete set of schematics.
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The pinball i rebadged, including PF restore, full cabinet repaint, new BG and all problems solved took me 4 weekends and quite a few weeknights to complete.
here she is again;
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=4732.0
Now im not for one minute suggesting you go this far with VOLLEY. But what i am saying is that it is very possible to get your VOLLEY fully working and looking tidy for your dads birthday... Good Luck!
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I cannot find the schematics and I don't have a new flipper rebuild kit. I will be placing an order with PBR within the next week and it is easy for me to add the parts you may require.
I think you have PLENTY of time, Matt. Even if you present it to your Dad "as is" and do a full resto at a later date ?
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Well I picked her up today and she is standing on her rusty legs (i'll grab that set off you Daniel)
Cab definately needs painting so I'll have to get a stencil set off you Gav.
PF has been mylared, not the greatest job, would love to remove it but that is only if I get time so I doubt it, I dont want to worry about paint coming up with it at the moment.
I'll concentrate on the cab first and external hardware first.
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I cannot find the schematics and I don't have a new flipper rebuild kit. I will be placing an order with PBR within the next week and it is easy for me to add the parts you may require.
I think you have PLENTY of time, Matt. Even if you present it to your Dad "as is" and do a full resto at a later date ?
Thanks Nino, I will definately get a few things added to your order, I will sort out what I need tomorrow and get back to you mate.
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On to ...
Question 3.
What colour 'white' do people recommend painting the cab with? I have a gravity feed gun and can spray myself so no probs there just wondering best brand and colour name.
Also for any volley owners who have painted theirs, what green and red do you suggest?
Can someone post a link to how to apply the webbing I know it has been covered a few times
Do I put a satin clear to seal after painting?
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Can someone post a link to how to apply the webbing I know it has been covered a few times
The TOP 1 dvd might be worth getting hold of - it shows how to do webbing and I think maybe mentions the name of a colour for GTB white (nut maybe for earlier machines?) anyway the DVD is well worth watching.
http://www.pinrepair.com/top/
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Can someone post a link to how to apply the webbing I know it has been covered a few times
The TOP 1 dvd might be worth getting hold of - it shows how to do webbing and I think maybe mentions the name of a colour for GTB white (nut maybe for earlier machines?) anyway the DVD is well worth watching.
http://www.pinrepair.com/top/
Thanks, but I can't really wait for the DVD to be sent over from the states, I have a few other TOP dvds they are great ^^^
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Question 4.
I was thinking of replacing the drop targets anyway so I thought I'd see how they clean up with Novus 2, it took the paint off the face @.@
What do you use to clean them??
Can you re-apply the artwork to them?
Does someone sell a decal you can peel and stick?
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Had a look at the IPD. Looks as though the targets are solid coloured (Yellow,Blue & Green w White or Black star). If you can't track any down, you can scan one that is OK and email to me. I'll drawn them up and cut adhesive vinyl (full set and spares) for you.
Greg
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I scanned my jungle princss ones and printed them onto adhesive paper then mylared them. I also ordered new ones and opted to leave my ones instead of use the pbr ones
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Flyer suggests they have the star artwork on plain colored targets.
http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2743&picno=4965&zoom=1
I can add a new set to a pbr order if you like.
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Had a look at the IPD. Looks as though the targets are solid coloured (Yellow,Blue & Green w White or Black star). If you can't track any down, you can scan one that is OK and email to me. I'll drawn them up and cut adhesive vinyl (full set and spares) for you.
Greg
Greg thanks for your offer, I may take you up one that one, as I am on a slight budget for this one, I'll let you know soon.
Thanks also Nino, I'll work it all out tonight and tommorrow and see how the budget is and what parts will go into it.
Thanks for all the replys guys, keep them coming, great to know I've got heaps of support out there when I need help ^^^
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If you order in a new set of drop targets make sure you tell them you want the black stars on the yellow drop targets,i have a full new set for Volley that i have had here for 10 years,but i remember when i ordered them they sent me Yellow with white stars.Also if you order in any bumper skirts be aware that the yellow is a perfect match,but the blue and greens are not.I recieved my order from PBR yesterday and could not work out why these 2 colours where wrong.On the order page it gives you the colour choices with only 1 Yellow,1 Blue,and a Green and Dark Green.I ordered all 4 just in case because i did not know what colour Green i would need.On the originals it has a letter,be it A-B or C,i do not know if this is something to do with colour or whatever.The original Blue has the letter A on it the 3 i ordered one is marked A one is B and one C but they are all the same colour but nowhere the same as the originals which pissed me off because 2 of the Blue were for my Joker Poker which are the same as Volley.It was the same for the Greens, one Dark Green and one Green both of them not close to the original colour.After disconecting all the pop bumpers on Volley last week and touching up the paint under them,i have new bumper bodies and mylar ready to install and put everything back together,but i will use the old skirts because the replacements will not look right.This might not be a big deal to some people but i was going to put all new parts in the pop bumpers.As for drop targets the old hot stamped originals were the best as the inks they use today ,you only have to spit on them and the inks runs off.I will be installing all new drop targets,plastics,posts ect in the next week,so if you are going to put an order into PBR make sure you get all you need in the one order.Also a big thanks to Pinball Rescue for making the new Volley plastics,they look great.
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Had a look at the IPD. Looks as though the targets are solid coloured (Yellow,Blue & Green w White or Black star). If you can't track any down, you can scan one that is OK and email to me. I'll drawn them up and cut adhesive vinyl (full set and spares) for you.
Greg
Greg thanks for your offer, I may take you up one that one, as I am on a slight budget for this one, I'll let you know soon.
Thanks also Nino, I'll work it all out tonight and tommorrow and see how the budget is and what parts will go into it.
Thanks for all the replys guys, keep them coming, great to know I've got heaps of support out there when I need help ^^^
I'll make them up for you no charge. Just PM me when ready. Greg
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Had a look at the IPD. Looks as though the targets are solid coloured (Yellow,Blue & Green w White or Black star). If you can't track any down, you can scan one that is OK and email to me. I'll drawn them up and cut adhesive vinyl (full set and spares) for you.
Greg
Greg thanks for your offer, I may take you up one that one, as I am on a slight budget for this one, I'll let you know soon.
Thanks also Nino, I'll work it all out tonight and tommorrow and see how the budget is and what parts will go into it.
Thanks for all the replys guys, keep them coming, great to know I've got heaps of support out there when I need help ^^^
I'll make them up for you no charge. Just PM me when ready. Greg
Great offer, Greg ^^^
Punter - I've had similar issues and the way I've got around it is to specify in the order that they are to be Gottlieb skirts with the nib (or tit as I call them). Otherwise, you get the generic kind. The yellows are completely different.
Matt - I'll be collating my order over the weekend and it will be finalised by next Tuesday. We will confirm exactly what you require and hopefully parts will arrive on time. They usually take 14 days.
While we are right on the "community spirit" for this task, I'm happy to provide my time on any fault finding or repairs you may require leading up to your Dad's birthday. We don't want to dissappoint him !
^^^
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Thanks guys!! !#%
Question 5.
Please tell me what is missing from this photo
I think is is the replay knocker but is there something else, hopefully Daniel will have one in his stash to help me out??
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Question 6.
Ok this is where I got up to last night so I need to know the best way to remove the nails, I think it was covered in another thread.
And the answers to Question 3. Paint what colour white !@#
What colour 'white' do people recommend painting the cab with? I have a gravity feed gun and can spray myself so no probs there just wondering best brand and colour name.
Also for any volley owners who have painted theirs, what green and red do you suggest?
Can someone post a link to how to apply the webbing I know it has been covered a few times
Do I put a satin clear to seal after painting?
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Yeah would be a credit knocker and I'll have one here. As for nail removal check out Strangeways ace high restore had a great guide to removing them
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Credit knocker - as Daniel stated. The chimes unit has been moved back - that's why you have three holes in addition to the three holes that the knocker is installed.
Thankfully, you have chimes. These are sometimes missing and difficult to source.
Nail removal - Check out my Aces High resto.
White paint - Gavin might know this. For the last Wedgehead I repainted I took a sample to "Paint Mobile" in Preston and they did a match for me. I don't have that paint any longer to give you the formula - Sorry ! Just make sure the paint is not a full gloss. Semi gloss or stain is fine. Again, Gavin should be able to help out.
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Hey Matt,
If there is anything you can use in my shop etc let me know. I have no experience with an EM build, but your welcome to use the riveting gear if you need to rebuild any switches etc. Same goes for any other tooling. Just give me a call.
If you want some nice instruction cards made up, i would be happy to mock up something custom for you. Happy 60th etc...
Like i said, just let me know
Timbo
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Thanks for all your help guys ^^^
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The only other mandatory parts you will need are ;
A new hold coil, ball, rubber kit..
What is a hold coil used for? Obviously one that gets used a lot holding one of the relays???
Is it a GTB-A9738?
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The only other mandatory parts you will need are ;
A new hold coil, ball, rubber kit..
What is a hold coil used for? Obviously one that gets used a lot holding one of the relays???
Is it a GTB-A9738?
Could be - I'll need to check one of my spare parts books for the exact coil. The "Hold" coil is always on. It can be disabled and the contact blades adjusted, but I don't usually do that. The "hum" noise the coil makes gives the machine it's character !
They are usually burnt out and the hum produced can be annoying while playing the game. I generally replace them.
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Here's the paint info from the tin. This is what I use for Gottliebs of that era:
Dulux Super Enamel - Semi gloss
Colour - Icing sugar (British Paints Colour Wall 2006)
EE OY 2N
XX OY 4N
Fairly sure HOLD RELAY A9736 would be what you need.
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Thanks heaps for that Greg ^^^
So do you have access to a vinyl cutter? I think there would be a market for those drop target decals I'll get you to reproduce.
I'll send an actual Drop Target to you so you can get an exact match *%*
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Question 7.
Do I need to sand right back to bare timber or just get smooth then apply primer then white base coat.
Reason I ask is, I wondered how well the 34 year old original paint adhears as a base for new paint??
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Matt, if you want paint and colours matched/mixed, let me know. My brother manages a local auto paint supply business and I'll organise the matching to be done for free and "special" cash pricing for the paint. He's rather good at colour matching.
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Question 7.
Do I need to sand right back to bare timber or just get smooth then apply primer then white base coat.
Reason I ask is, I wondered how well the 34 year old original paint adhears as a base for new paint??
Plus you don't want the new paint to react with the old (although it's so old as to now unlikely be an issue).
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Question 7.
Do I need to sand right back to bare timber or just get smooth then apply primer then white base coat.
Reason I ask is, I wondered how well the 34 year old original paint adhears as a base for new paint??
I always sand back to wood, fix and imperfections with bondo or similar, spray primer/undercoat (several thin coats over a 2 hour period), then let the paint settle for a week and apply a thin coat of white (base color), followed by a thicker coat of white. Settle for a week. Then do the stenciled colors over a weekend. Let it settle for a week and then install hardware.
To strip the old paint, use citris strip from bunnings. It does not stink and washes out with water. I've stripped cabs in less than 2 hours.
Refer to this thread, Matt ;
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=820.0
That was a restore I did years ago and it still looks like it was painted last weekend !
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Matt, if you want paint and colours matched/mixed, let me know. My brother manages a local auto paint supply business and I'll organise the matching to be done for free and "special" cash pricing for the paint. He's rather good at colour matching.
Wow, thanks mate, I can give you the headbox to you to show him, or word him up and I'll pop in early next week ^^^
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Question 7.
Do I need to sand right back to bare timber or just get smooth then apply primer then white base coat.
Reason I ask is, I wondered how well the 34 year old original paint adhears as a base for new paint??
I always sand back to wood, fix and imperfections with bondo or similar, spray primer/undercoat (several thin coats over a 2 hour period), then let the paint settle for a week and apply a thin coat of white (base color), followed by a thicker coat of white. Settle for a week. Then do the stenciled colors over a weekend. Let it settle for a week and then install hardware.
To strip the old paint, use citris strip from bunnings. It does not stink and washes out with water. I've stripped cabs in less than 2 hours.
Refer to this thread, Matt ;
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=820.0
That was a restore I did years ago and it still looks like it was painted last weekend !
Thanks Nino, thats exactly the info I was after ^^^
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Wow, thanks mate, I can give you the headbox to you to show him, or word him up and I'll pop in early next week ^^^
Either way - let me know which and I'll organise. More than happy to take the head box in and sort, glad to help (seeing I encouraged you to do this on the other thread!!)
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Wow, thanks mate, I can give you the headbox to you to show him, or word him up and I'll pop in early next week ^^^
Either way - let me know which and I'll organise. More than happy to take the head box in and sort, glad to help (seeing I encouraged you to do this on the other thread!!)
Well, to save time if he is working monday, give him the heads up and I'll take it in to him. Let me know if it suits ^^^
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Wow, thanks mate, I can give you the headbox to you to show him, or word him up and I'll pop in early next week ^^^
Either way - let me know which and I'll organise. More than happy to take the head box in and sort, glad to help (seeing I encouraged you to do this on the other thread!!)
Well, to save time if he is working monday, give him the heads up and I'll take it in to him. Let me know if it suits ^^^
For sure, I'm seeing him Sunday for dinner, so I'll check when he's taking lunch so you can avoid then.
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Thanks heaps for that Greg ^^^
So do you have access to a vinyl cutter? I think there would be a market for those drop target decals I'll get you to reproduce.
I'll send an actual Drop Target to you so you can get an exact match *%*
I have a vinyl cutter if needed.
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Thanks heaps for that Greg ^^^
So do you have access to a vinyl cutter? I think there would be a market for those drop target decals I'll get you to reproduce.
I'll send an actual Drop Target to you so you can get an exact match *%*
I have a Roland vinyl cutter which I use for graphics on machines I restore. No need to send a target if you can scan one (scanning will be to scale). Here's an example of a GTB 'Golden Arrow' I'm working on at the moment.
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Thats great Greg, would be a very handy item
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Thanks heaps for that Greg ^^^
So do you have access to a vinyl cutter? I think there would be a market for those drop target decals I'll get you to reproduce.
I'll send an actual Drop Target to you so you can get an exact match *%*
I have a vinyl cutter if needed.
Thanks for the offer mate, but Greg got in first and I can't let you fight for it *)*
Appreciate all the help from everyone though ^^^
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Wow, thanks mate, I can give you the headbox to you to show him, or word him up and I'll pop in early next week ^^^
Either way - let me know which and I'll organise. More than happy to take the head box in and sort, glad to help (seeing I encouraged you to do this on the other thread!!)
Well, to save time if he is working monday, give him the heads up and I'll take it in to him. Let me know if it suits ^^^
For sure, I'm seeing him Sunday for dinner, so I'll check when he's taking lunch so you can avoid then.
Thanks mate, just send me a PM with all the details and I'll pop in whenever it suits him
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Thanks mate, just send me a PM with all the details and I'll pop in whenever it suits him
All organised Mat, I'll PM the info.
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To strip the old paint, use citris strip from bunnings. It does not stink and washes out with water. I've stripped cabs in less than 2 hours.
I have stripped back paint with citris strip, what do I need to wipe away excess residue, I just used a wet rag after I scraped all the paint off, is that enough or will it bleed back through the new paint?
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To strip the old paint, use citris strip from bunnings. It does not stink and washes out with water. I've stripped cabs in less than 2 hours.
I have stripped back paint with citris strip, what do I need to wipe away excess residue, I just used a wet rag after I scraped all the paint off, is that enough or will it bleed back through the new paint?
Damp rag. You don't want to "wet" the cabinet. I use a scraper and once all the residue is gone, leave the cab out in the sun for a few hours. Then you can start prepping - sanding etc. I would not be priming/undercoating until the can is completely dry.
Post some pics, Matt ?
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To strip the old paint, use citris strip from bunnings. It does not stink and washes out with water. I've stripped cabs in less than 2 hours.
I have stripped back paint with citris strip, what do I need to wipe away excess residue, I just used a wet rag after I scraped all the paint off, is that enough or will it bleed back through the new paint?
Damp rag. You don't want to "wet" the cabinet. I use a scraper and once all the residue is gone, leave the cab out in the sun for a few hours. Then you can start prepping - sanding etc. I would not be priming/undercoating until the can is completely dry.
Post some pics, Matt ?
Yeah I was definately going to wait until all dry, I'll post some pics when I get a chance
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Parts ordered !
Should be here within 10 working days ^^^
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Thanks Nino ^^^
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Big thanks to Nick, I popped down to see his brother to get all my paints colour matched, when I went back to pick up and pay for the paints he told me Nick had sorted it out for me! Thank you mate, I really appreciate it *%*
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Paint stripping finished.
I was playing around testing out some webbing techniques today, and think I'll use my spray gun turned down and opened up. It gives a perfect web same as original and is easier to apply evenly, compared to a wire brush or toothbrush.
I think I'll have to lay down a coat of clear after the webbing before the stencils though, as I think the stencil paper would remove some of the webs as they are very light and 'wispy'.
Still a while away from that though, its elbow grease time first, rubbing back the cab and filling scratches
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Question 8,
I realise the side rails were a 'brushed' finish, but what finish was the coin door and lock down bar?
I'd expect the lock down to be a polished finished as it was chrome not stainless, but unsure of the coin door.
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I have a GTB 'Golden Arrow' 1977 which has the same door, coin entrances and lockdown bar. Both are polished SS. Looking on the IPD seems 'Volley' is the same.
Greg
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Personal choice.
My Jacks Open front door and lock down bar were factory "grained". I simply regrained them. Restore thread is here - http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=820.0
The inside of the door was chrome, outside skin was not. The door frame was aluminium, which I polished with Brasso and a toothbrush.
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Big thanks to Nick, I popped down to see his brother to get all my paints colour matched, when I went back to pick up and pay for the paints he told me Nick had sorted it out for me! Thank you mate, I really appreciate it *%*
My pleasure mate, I really appreciated the ramp and bracket you made for the HH restore, glad I could contribute to your restoration.
Any chance of a play test before you hand it over?? :D
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I'm sure we could squeeze in a test play somewhere mate *%*
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Well after more than 10 hours of filling, sanding, filling, sanding, filling, sanding.....
undercoat, spot putty, sand, spot putty, sand....
She finally has some undercoat.
The body was fairly good had a few nicks and scratches, but the head had serious planking, both sides and top, very deep, had to spend heaps of time on it, after I thought it was ok I got the first undercoat on it, it was still bad, I spot filled the whole surface of both sides and sanded back, spot putty again lots more sanding, then 3 coats of primer, smoooth! ()
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Looking good Matt. Planking on the facade of the head is very common. The Pro Football had to have the entire facade replaced, it was damaged beyond repair. You have done a great job so far, and the parts should be in this week !
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Thanks mate ^^^
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White and webbing applied, I ended up using a spray gun for the webbing, nozzle opened up at about 40psi.
Just waiting for Gav for some stencils now to finish off the cab.
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Looks awesome Matt #*#
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#*# #*#
Great work Matt..
Its all in the prep and looks like you've done heaps and heaps. Will be better than factory.
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Great work Matt, the webbing looks really good,
looking forward to seeing pics when it's all back together.
Cheers
Dave
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Look great Matt - Is you email currently working ? A package arrived last Friday #@#
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Look great Matt - Is you email currently working ? A package arrived last Friday #@#
I recieved your email and sent one back Saturday arvo, I've just re-sent it, let me know if you don't get it, sorry I had a feeling it must have got lost in cyberspace, damn computers @.@
Thanks mate
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Your doing a great job there matt that webbing looks great. Something ive ever tried looks to scary for me
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Great job with the webbing there Matt. Like Daniel, I haven't tried doing this myself
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First rate work Matt, the old man is gonna be over the moon! $#$
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Thanks guys *%*
Your doing a great job there matt that webbing looks great. Something ive ever tried looks to scary for me
A little scary as there is no going back (well, there is but it would take a lot of sanding), just have to take it easy, you can always add more, I just practiced on some white cardboard.
Tried the wire brush method first, then the toothbrush method, then though I'd use the spray gun, heaps easier and way less mess, plus that is the way it was originally done apparently.
I used the flyer as a rough idea on how much webbing to do. I have seen pics with way more and some with less, so I kinda went half way.
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Look great Matt - Is you email currently working ? A package arrived last Friday #@#
I recieved your email and sent one back Saturday arvo, I've just re-sent it, let me know if you don't get it, sorry I had a feeling it must have got lost in cyberspace, damn computers @.@
Thanks mate
I recieved the second email. Not surprised I didn't recieve your first. I'm changing ISPs at the end of the month, because they screwed up my email.
Anyway - The project is moving along nicely - I've VERY impressed with the splatter !
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GREAT JOB with the webbing.. looks bloody awesome ^^^ ^^^
coming along nicely, looking forward to seeing the finished product.
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Need some opinions please…
I am hoping to have enough time to restore the PF as well, I need to remove the mylar and do a few small touch-ups.
Should I re-cover the PF with new mylar to protect the touched up artwork?
I am not a huge fan of mylar, but I think it would probably be best as the PF is in nice condition other than a few pin head areas missing a little paint and under bumper wear
All the inserts are slightly dished, do I need to rectify these or just put new mylar over the top?
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Depends on where the touch ups need to be done. Are they in "high - traffic" areas ?
Can you post some pictures so that some opinions can be posted ?
As a general rule of thumb (personal opinion), once I remove mylar, I never re apply (to the entire playfield). Sometime I will reapply to high traffic wear areas.
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Do you just keep a good coat of wax over the PF to protect Nino?
If you zoom in on this pic you can see the random spots, I'm guessing they were from previous mylar removal?
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For a machine which is 35 year old and apart from a few areas you are concerned about, the PF looks quite good. From previous experience I would leave the mylar on. Chances are removing it will take further paint off.
PM sent (Re: target decals)
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For a machine which is 35 year old and apart from a few areas you are concerned about, the PF looks quite good. From previous experience I would leave the mylar on. Chances are removing it will take further paint off.
PM sent (Re: target decals)
+1
That mylar or contact has a really nice shine. It is not lifting. I would leave it intact as removing it presents risks of paint lifting. I would consider using the Treasurecove polishing kit - but a simple clean with Novus 2 and then paste wax will do the trick for this game.
That's a really nice playfield.
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+2 Id leave it as is Matt my jungle princess is similar not worth the risk
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Matt, Here's the star/s to scale for targets. I've given you measurements to help line up on the target face. The red outline will be a mylar cut to protect the targets from wear. Will mail asap along with bumper vinyls. Thanks Tim for sending scan.
Greg
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Wow, that is great thanks Greg, I will post some pics showing your great work when I get them on ^^^
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I saw the machine "in person" yesterday and I was VERY impressed. Keep up the good work, Matt. This will be an awesome machine when completed !
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I saw the machine "in person" yesterday and I was VERY impressed. Keep up the good work, Matt. This will be an awesome machine when completed !
+1, I was lucky enough to see this one - amazing work on the webbing, outstanding! ^^^
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Thanks guys, cant wait to get the stencils they should arrive in the next couple of days
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Someone please help me out!!
I need a door decal like this, I thought Mark had them but he is showing nil stock @.@
(http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/sc_images/products/2546_image.jpg)
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Hi Matt,
They are available thru PBR as I have bought one recently for a restore. Details Below:
GOTTLIEB DECAL GTB-A17050A 1 $4.50ea USD
Someone may be placing a order soon and can order in for you if you don't have a account.
Greg
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Thanks Greg, I dont have an account, I was going to get Nino to order one for me, but I forgot initially and added it to his order late. I thought I could get one locally so I wasn't worried about it.
The best I could find was on ebay about $19 delivered http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270553936682&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270553936682&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)
Marco's wanted $43.50 postage for one @.@
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Matt How soon do you need it ?
I have one somewhere just need to find it !
Did you want it posted to out ?
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OK Matt 30 seconds later i found it !
I could have waited before i posted. %.%
LMK what you want to do....
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OK Matt 30 seconds later i found it !
I could have waited before i posted. %.%
LMK what you want to do....
If you don't need it consider it sold mate
PM sent.
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Quick update, will do a full resto thread when complete, applied orange/red colour yesterday &&
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z397/stewart_clan/Gottlieb%20Volley%20Rebuild/smallSAM_0289.jpg)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z397/stewart_clan/Gottlieb%20Volley%20Rebuild/smallSAM_0292.jpg)
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Jeeezus thats coming up sweet as!! ^^^ ^^^ i have to say again how good that webbing looks *%* bloody awesome!!
cant wait to see the end result!!
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Great work Matt ^^^
That webbing looks awesome, really sets of your paint job, looking forward to the finished pics.
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Quick update, second stencil applied, ready for clearcoat tomorrow *%*
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z397/stewart_clan/Gottlieb%20Volley%20Rebuild/smallSAM_0298.jpg)
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Nice! ^^^
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HOLY COW !
That looks AMAZING ^^^
Well done Matt.
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Excellente ^^^ ^^^
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Your dad is going to shit when he lays eyes on this matt. That's glass is here whenever your ready
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Your dad is going to shit when he lays eyes on this matt. That's glass is here whenever your ready
Thanks mate ^^^
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Awesome work...... the fleck is done just right and its all come together so well..... Best looking VOLLEY there is.
great restoration... you done this so well.
Congrats mate @@* @@*
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Nice work Matt ! ^^^
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Looks fantastic Matt, your dad will be one happy man!
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Thanks guys, I'll post some better pics when I do the restoration thread soon
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As we spoke about the other day, unlikely your dad will realise what went into this.
He'll probably say "didn't realize they are making these new still"
Top effort mate!
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You are right, but that's fine, Dad has always had plenty of time for us, and I'm really enjoying the rebuild *%*
Dont think I have had any time to play pinball since the last time you guys were over though :lol
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Very nice job, such a great gift to give someone, well done!
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After some opinions, the finish I got looks fantastic, but... it is very glossy off the gun, I know they only had a light lacquor from the factory, do you think I should leave it or add some matt to the clear to dull it off a bit?
I think I will leave it as I am happy with the result, but wondering what people think. Definately not for the purists, but matt clear could always be painted over it later to dull it down a bit. And it is not original anyway as I have now resprayed it.
Not the greatest photos but you get the idea.
Thoughts please...
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z397/stewart_clan/Gottlieb%20Volley%20Rebuild/smallSAM_0303.jpg)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z397/stewart_clan/Gottlieb%20Volley%20Rebuild/smallSAM_0307.jpg)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z397/stewart_clan/Gottlieb%20Volley%20Rebuild/smallSAM_0311.jpg)
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If it is a minimal effort to dull it slightly, then it would be best to do it before the side rails etc are mounted. Its not really a "blinding" gloss Matt, and it depends on the environmentt it is going into. If you are happy, leave it.
It is much better than it was before %.%
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Personal choice matt if your happy leave it.
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Maybe a light coat of satin clear to take the edge off if it's not too much trouble?
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Have covered this on my website under "finishing touch"
Ive messed around with many finishes to find that "authentic" finish.
In the end i found that a mix of 80% full gloss and 20% low sheen polyurathane was spot on
http://www.flipperescue.com/stencils.htm
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I reckon it looks great just how it is ^^^ ^^^ Awesome job!!
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If it is a minimal effort to dull it slightly, then it would be best to do it before the side rails etc are mounted.
It would be easier to do now for sure.
Maybe a light coat of satin clear to take the edge off if it's not too much trouble?
Definately not too much trouble, I thought I'd see how the clear came out off the gun as Anthony said they don't really have a satin for that particular clear (as it is for automotive applications) but he could add matte properties to it if I needed. He said to see how it comes out first without polishing as usually it is slightly dull until buffed up. Maybe it came out so glossy because I thinned it out 3 parts thinners to 1 part clear for the finishing coats as for spraying cars.
Might pop down there today to get a little mixed up with the matte in it, see how it comes out.
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I had to pop down the the paint shop to grab some paint for the apron and ball arch so I thought I'd talk to Nick's brother Anthony and mix a little satin into my clear.
Then I sprayed on a satin coat to compare the finish. Glad I did! *%*
Just takes the edge off a bit, and I think it looks better and more original
So now I have finished painting the cabinet, here a couple of pics:
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z397/stewart_clan/Gottlieb%20Volley%20Rebuild/smallSAM_0321.jpg)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z397/stewart_clan/Gottlieb%20Volley%20Rebuild/smallSAM_0328.jpg)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z397/stewart_clan/Gottlieb%20Volley%20Rebuild/smallSAM_0323.jpg)
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perfect dude,
Looks absolutely MINT! #*#
Will have to pop in for a game before 'the reveal'
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Looks stunning Matt, your old mans going to be stoked.
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Sen-bloody-sational Matt!! #*# $#$
Glad Anthony could sort the mix. He's getting used to the local pin-heads (odd bunch that we are).
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That looks spot on ,you should be very happy with the final look @@*.
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I think that has to be the BEST EM cab repray I've seen in MANY years. Usually, this take many attempts to obtain this kind of result.
A credit to you work, Matt - and of course Gav's stencils and Anthony's paint. I'm really pleased with this result. Your Dad won't believe his eyes.
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Thanks for the kind words guys, I'm wrapt with the way it has came out, looks even better in the flesh *%*
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Need some more help, started today, fixed one problem but have another...
None of the 10 point switches, when manually closed do anything, no chime, no score reel movement, the 10 point coil in the back box tested ok but the wrapper has gone brown.
Any ideas where to start????
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Lift up the Pf and close a 10 pt switch.... you should have a 10pt relay bank where the coil should pull in.
Does score motor turn when 10 pt closed?
If 10pt relay dosent pull in then you have an open relay leaf.
If it does and still no luck at the score reels then yopu need to look at the coil with the brown wrapper again. Make sure all relays that should be closed are etc.
Alkso make sure that you have power to the switches themselves and that ground is present
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When I manually close the 10 point relay in the back box everything that should happen does, the score reel ticks over and the chime works
Thanks Gav, will those check those things after dinner.
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OK - cool.
Pf switches not talking to the back box
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Try cleaning the plugs that connect from the playfield to the backbox with a wire brush or some wet and dry paper .. could simply be a dirty jones plug ?
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All sorted, I had been cleaning the plugs yesterday when setting it all up and slightly unseated the smaller plug in the backbox, was sitting in the correct place but not pushed all the way in. Easy fix, thanks for helping guys ^^^
Everything is working 100% Very Happy!!!! #*#
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Love an easy fix ^^^