The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Retropin on May 20, 2012, 12:34:35 PM
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Im making a couple of backglasses this weekend... below is the method which ill outline in stages.
Obviously, first thing we need is a sheet of glass.. make sure it gets tempered and edges are smoothed. 4mm is normally thick enough for any backglass.. some early EM may require 5mm. If you go under 4mm for tempered then you risk warping in the oven as the glass is annealed.
Once you have your artwork ( a file should be in the region of 20Mb plus to get good results) you need to have it DOUBLE struck with ink and printed in REVERSE. If you go single strike on the ink, the colours wash out when its backlit. Its printed in reverse so the print sits behind the glass and gives the illusion of a screen printed version.
STEP 1.
Lay glass down... spray lightly with water and a couple of drops of detergent and wipe off with a SOFT vinyl applicator... this removes any tiny particles.
Then respray lightly with your water mix.
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/MakingBG18.jpg)
Place the print backing paper side up onto the wet glass.. the print will stick slightly due to the surface tension in the water layer... this allows you to peel the backing off spraying as you go.
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/MakingBG11.jpg)
Once backing is completely removed you can lift it up and flip it over onto the glass. The water/ detergent mixture allows you to move it around to align all edges correctly
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/MakingBG14.jpg)
You can do this dry which is quicker, but your alignment has to be exact to start with.. i only do it this way if i have another person helping.
Once in place, a light spray again to allow the applicator to move across the print smoothly. Its essential that a soft applicator is used.. we are wiping on the printed ink here and it scratches very very easily.
To get the water layer out.. hold print down with one finger to start and begin at the bottom ( edge nearest you), place applicator in the centre and wipe towards one edge... move back to your centre and wipe to other edge.
This now has your print held in place and going from centre out, you can gradually move up the glass making sure your overlapping yourself each time.
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/MakingBG15.jpg)
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/MakingBG16.jpg)
Once this is done we need to put to one side to dry off a bit... when done wet the edges like to curl up and so you have to go back several times and reapply these. This is the downside of the wet method... had i done it dry i could have gone to the next stage straight away. Both methods have their downside.. wet takes longer, but dry risks misregistration and also bubbles which stand out like ripe plums on a bulldog.....Pinball machines make great resting surfaces!
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/MakingBG17.jpg)
Part 2 next....
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Thanks for sharing / explaining , look forward to the following parts.
When you say double struck in the printing method - can you explain this please?
cheers
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Thanks for sharing / explaining , look forward to the following parts.
When you say double struck in the printing method - can you explain this please?
cheers
Print is printed twice, so double the ink, without this, youll get no depth to any of the colours
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Interesting - What game ?
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Interesting - What game ?
This BG is for Zac DEVIL RIDERS... method applies to any BG though obviously
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Cheers Retro, I thought that was it.
How to replicate the mirror effect - with a final application of mirror vinyl or does that not work or look good.
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Cheers Retro, I thought that was it.
How to replicate the mirror effect - with a final application of mirror vinyl or does that not work or look good.
Very hard to do... you cant print chrome.. comes out grey. Only way you can do it is to cut mirrored vinyl for the areas you need. Dont weed out... leave the entire piece of vinyl as one... apply to the BG first, then weed out whats not required... your print then goes over the top of this. It must be done dry though and very slowly/ carefully as your water mix tends to get trapped between the edges of the chrome and the glass... very difficult to squeedgy this out. If you laminate the print then you can heat the parts where it meets the chrome edge with a hairdryer very gently.. then using you felt applicator it can be manipulated into the edges and give a perfect effect of the whole thing being one layer
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Thanks for the process ^^^
Do you send the original backglass/ artwork to a printer for scanning and what file format is it scanned.
I gather you get it printed at a printshop - What exactly is the instructions you give them ?
Hope this makes sense.
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Thanks for the process ^^^
Do you send the original backglass/ artwork to a printer for scanning and what file format is it scanned.
I gather you get it printed at a printshop - What exactly is the instructions you give them ?
Hope this makes sense.
Scans, knitting and corrections are all done by me beforehand... the artwork for this BG is freely available on David Gersics site and ive used this file for this BG.
You need to get your file to correct size and in JPEG format.
If you then take this file to a sign shop to get printed.. tell them you need it printed onto clear, double strike and in reverse... theyll reverse it for you no problems if you cant do this yourself.
Tell them you also need some translucent white oversized... this is the next step
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Cheers Retro, I thought that was it.
How to replicate the mirror effect - with a final application of mirror vinyl or does that not work or look good.
Very hard to do... you cant print chrome.. comes out grey. Only way you can do it is to cut mirrored vinyl for the areas you need. Dont weed out... leave the entire piece of vinyl as one... apply to the BG first, then weed out whats not required... your print then goes over the top of this. It must be done dry though and very slowly/ carefully as your water mix tends to get trapped between the edges of the chrome and the glass... very difficult to squeedgy this out. If you laminate the print then you can heat the parts where it meets the chrome edge with a hairdryer very gently.. then using you felt applicator it can be manipulated into the edges and give a perfect effect of the whole thing being one layer
So you put the mirror on first, then the print?
When you do the mirror, do you get it cut on a vinyl cutter?
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Cheers Retro, I thought that was it.
How to replicate the mirror effect - with a final application of mirror vinyl or does that not work or look good.
Very hard to do... you cant print chrome.. comes out grey. Only way you can do it is to cut mirrored vinyl for the areas you need. Dont weed out... leave the entire piece of vinyl as one... apply to the BG first, then weed out whats not required... your print then goes over the top of this. It must be done dry though and very slowly/ carefully as your water mix tends to get trapped between the edges of the chrome and the glass... very difficult to squeedgy this out. If you laminate the print then you can heat the parts where it meets the chrome edge with a hairdryer very gently.. then using you felt applicator it can be manipulated into the edges and give a perfect effect of the whole thing being one layer
So you put the mirror on first, then the print?
When you do the mirror, do you get it cut on a vinyl cutter?
Is the only way to cut it... you have to make your file first though... you cant cut on a plotter with a Jpeg... you need to draw up all silver parts in a vector format and then cut it
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Now we have our image on the glass we need to make it more like a backglass,
Excess is trimmed from the edges with a new scalpel... always use a new one as if its not super sharp it will drag and your cut will be wobbly.
A layer of translucent needs to go over the back just like the original screened type. If you cant get translucent, then basic white will do, just make sure it has clear glue on the back as this stuff is also a translucent vinyl
You need to cut your translucent oversize.
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/translucent3.jpg)
Same process as before.. wet the area, wet the translucent and apply squeedgying out the water.
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/translucent4.jpg)
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/translucent5.jpg)
Extra is trimmed with a scalpel..
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/translucent6.jpg)
Flip the glass over and we are starting to resemble a backglass
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/translucent1.jpg)
Next step is the blockout parts ( non illuminated) and the hidden text.
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I was wondering what you were doing with new backglasses and was considering asking but now I don't have to. Thanks muchly.
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thanks gavin,i am following your progress and finding this very informative.great work.keep it up,mate.
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thanks gavin,i am following your progress and finding this very informative.great work.keep it up,mate.
Have the hidden text etc on the back to do yet.. might not be for a couple of days as im doing a couple of glasses at once and so ran out of time today... the whole process from start to finish will be posted... glad your enjoying it and finding it useful...
Gav
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Thanks for the great insight into this process Gav ^^^
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Thanks for posting Gavin.
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Very interesting Gav *%*
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PART 2 - reverse hidden text.
At this point its pretty much a necessity to have a vinyl plotter or at least access to one.. if you can supply a file then most sign companies will cut the text for you for a bit of cash.
The hidden text is cut in reverse in stencil mask.. these are then applied to the back of the glass. Zaccaria games dont have a lot of blockout on them and so i only cut what i needed to.
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/DRreverse9.jpg)
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/DRreverse10.jpg)
Once in place standard silver enamel from a spray can is applied
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/DRreverse12.jpg)
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/DRreverse11.jpg)
Let this dry completely and using a scalpel, the mask can be removed. At this point i regretted not cutting a full strip of stencil to go along the bottom as the masking tape lead to some slight bleeding.. not overly disastrous.. more bloody irritating!
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/DRreverse1.jpg)
At this stage on a normal backglass you really only have to remove the score windows... Zaccaria glasses are different and so a lot more is cut away. All this is done over a lightbox so i can see exactly what im doing. The light bulbs are interesting to cut! ^&^
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/DRreverse2.jpg)
Once all the image is cut i can remove the centre piece thats not required.. i cut this down the middle to make it 2 smaller sections.. try to do it all at once and you risk cocking it up.
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/DRreverse3.jpg)
Centre piece now removed..
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/DRreverse4.jpg)
Flip the glass over on the lightbox and you can see all hidden text and get a good idea of how she looks
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/DRreverse5.jpg)
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/DRreverse6.jpg)
And now with backlight off, we get to see the normal glass
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/DRreverse7.jpg)
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/DRreverse8.jpg)
And she's all done!.. Now i can put the glass trim on and fit to the machine. I forgot i havent yet made the neon for this, but once its done ill post a final pic
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You make it l look so easy Gav... Knowing me I'll never find out coz I'm to slack
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Excellent work,
Red
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I've been eagerly waiting for part 2 of this thread.. well worth the wait @@* @@*
Bloody awesome job dude ^^^ ^^^
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Great job mate ^^^
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Top shelf work. Amazing.
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Great work there Retropin!
I experimented with a method for a BG repair last year and it worked a treat. http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=6842.msg91095#msg91095 (http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=6842.msg91095#msg91095)
I failed to do a double strike print which you did, this is a good tip to enhance the colours once the translucent backing is applied. In my case I used a white adhesive vinyl, and have been experimenting with a spray of white paint behind the printed clear vinyl artwork.
For the blockout areas I have thought of using a white vinyl with a black print as a backing behind the graphics, all translucent areas could then be plotter cut and light would pass through the printed vinyl in these cut outs.
Long term I'm not sure whether the heat from the BG bulbs would effect or melt the vinyl, so the best solution would be to use leds.
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Outstanding Gav !
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Brilliant gav! Awesome work! ^^^
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Top work Gav
Are you doing your artwork repair with photoshop after scanning.
I am in the process of scanning (A4 scanner &^&) a Oh Boy backglass - Very labour intense.
Would like to get hold of complete scans of old backglasses to photoshop if any one has some (Note: NOT to sell but have available for other members.
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Great work there Retropin!
I experimented with a method for a BG repair last year and it worked a treat. http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=6842.msg91095#msg91095 (http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=6842.msg91095#msg91095)
I failed to do a double strike print which you did, this is a good tip to enhance the colours once the translucent backing is applied. In my case I used a white adhesive vinyl, and have been experimenting with a spray of white paint behind the printed clear vinyl artwork.
For the blockout areas I have thought of using a white vinyl with a black print as a backing behind the graphics, all translucent areas could then be plotter cut and light would pass through the printed vinyl in these cut outs.
Long term I'm not sure whether the heat from the BG bulbs would effect or melt the vinyl, so the best solution would be to use leds.
Very hard to get a nice even effect if back spraying.. the translucent is much easier to do.
If you wanted to go with an all vinyl solution, the you only really need to make the blockout for the back using a plotter. I spray the mask as it gives a more authentic looking backglass.. normally i put a spray of clear over this also but didnt do that on the Zaccaria glass as so little is blocked out.
The bulbs shouldnt affect it... vinyl is 10 year full sun, so unless you are using much cheaper banner vinyl i dont see any issues arising
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Top work Gav
Are you doing your artwork repair with photoshop after scanning.
I am in the process of scanning (A4 scanner &^&) a Oh Boy backglass - Very labour intense.
Would like to get hold of complete scans of old backglasses to photoshop if any one has some (Note: NOT to sell but have available for other members.
With this glass i didnt.. just lifted the artwork off the web.. its a high res photo and so all straight lines have a curve to them due to the camera lense. Most glasses i do correct using PS.. it is a long job and most people dont realise just how much goes into making up a glass from scratch... theres a lot of work to be done!
The guy who wants the Bally Hi DEAL glass came round to day and saw the couple of glasses im making.. reckons that if his glass came out anywhere near that good, he would be very happy indeed.
PM me some glasses that you are after.. i might have some here already, ive been making files for a some time now.
OH BOY..... just bought a very nice example of this game.. dont have it just yet.. love that playfield!!!
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Yes,a lot of time to do the artwork - Lost count on how many hours so far on this one.
Combination of scanning/photo,stitching,adjusting.....
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That looks like quite a challenge Kev
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Installed with the neon behind. I took the liberty of upgrading the wishy washy soft pink that was the original colour and replaced with purple for more depth.
looks really good
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/ZaccariaBGneon4.jpg)
Game now complete... on with the next job
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That is beautiful, well done and thanks for sharing.
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Installed with the neon behind. I took the liberty of upgrading the wishy washy soft pink that was the original colour and replaced with purple for more depth.
looks really good
(http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr243/retropin/ZaccariaBGneon4.jpg)
Game now complete... on with the next job
"Looks really good"
That's an understatement if ever I heard one !
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That looks awesome mate, well done ^^^
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Looks great! @@* @@* @@* @@*
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Fantastic Gav, I did a back glass for a Zaccaria time machine recently using images and process from David gersic website. This used translucent vinyl on acrylic. Came up well, but not as well as yours.
What is it with Zaccaria pins that the back glasses are always smashed or missing?
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Ive had 5 Zac games over the years and this is the only one with a missing or broken backglass.
The folding down header with a glass installed is the biggest killer i reckon, i also think that people tend to look after say a Gottlieb, Bally etc game more... its just a Zac... or its just a Playmatic etc.. but a Centaur is special and so extra care taken.
Last week i got told of one dealer that scrapped several zaccaria games simply due to missing backglass or non working neon... couldnt be arsed to repair.. game is a cheap Euro import so who gives a stuff?
If it aint Gottlieb, Williams, Bally its just rubbish.
LOL- thats my theory anyway :lol :lol
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Fantastic result there Gav ^^^