The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Strangeways on October 11, 2014, 10:27:36 PM
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This is a title I started 2 years ago, but I've changed the objective a few times which has extended the timeframe. I have a "special" admiration for Wedgeheads, as I remember them from my youth. I remember playing "Jacks Open", "High Hand", "Pro Football", "Sky Jump" and "King Pin" from my youth. I've restored a "Jacks Open" and "Pro Football" to a NIB standard (Nearly In Box) and this machine is gravitating towards the same result.
Objective
Started off 2 years ago as a "reconditioning", but as I started it, I noticed that there were a few issues that I wanted to improve. Starting with the cabinet and then the fiasco with the contact removal. After deciding to repaint the cabinet with licensed Flipperescue Stencils, I also had to address the playfield. More on that later..
Condition report
Cabinet - 6/10 - Initially looked reasonable, but then then on closer inspection, there were some structural problems and then the plywood was starting to peel from sections. The more I poked and prodded, the more I wanted to repaint it !
Playfield - 7/10 - Again, looked very good. When I started to remove the contact, I noticed areas had fissures - or small cracks - this is where the paint had separated from the playfield and was being held to the playfield by the contact. Once I started, I had to continue..
Backglass - 7/10 - Some peeling, but better tahn most I've seen. I'll address the issues and possibly touch up some areas.
Mechanical - 7/10 - Corrosion and seized steppers. Some serious relpated needs to be done - which I enjoy doing anyway.
Before Pictures
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20001.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20002.JPG)
Playfield looks presentable ;
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20005.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20006.JPG)
Interesting application of a "mylar ring" - using contact. Would not surprise me if my father once owned this machine..
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20008.JPG)
The contact has shrunk over time
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20013.JPG)
Contact has lifted in areas - this is one of the reasons I wanted to remove it.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20027.JPG)
Front Door - Not much can be done here - Replacement ordered !
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20022.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20029.JPG)
Some serious replating and polishing inside the cabinet. but first it will need to be structurally repaired.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20021.JPG)
Mylar removal test area prompted me to work on the first areas with great success (short lived)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20049.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20051.JPG)
Some minor issues - not enough to worry too much about ;
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20061.JPG)
Then the WORST nightmare of contact removal is realized - and NO - you can't stop as you keep thinking " this will surely end.."
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20050.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20048.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20053.JPG)
The LEFT side is a complete disaster. The right side is reasonable.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20052.JPG)
Close ups of the really bad areas ;
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20058.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20059.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20060.JPG)
The result is a reminder that restoration work is not always an exact science. But it represents a challenge to me that initially I was concerned about, but I have several ideas on how to repair the damage (Surf Champ restoration).
Here's an initial pass of color matching and touching up by hand. It looks interesting, but I won't be using this method.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20046.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20047.JPG)
More on the playfield later. It will be sanded to remove any more loose paint and then cleared to lock in the current artwork..
Cabinet
Many small defects alerted me to the fact that it was better to repair and repaint ;
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20067.JPG)
Layer of timber was slightly lifting the artwork. some call it "character", but a vigorous cleaning of the cabinet light flake this paint off the cabinet !
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20068.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20084.JPG)
Paint stripper applied !
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20090.JPG)
Fast Forward to NOW
Paint has been removed. Stencils created and posted by Gav at Flipperrescue. Cabinet repairs and prep for paintwork done.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20092.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20091.JPG)
Will most likely lay down the primer undercoat within the next week or so (weather permitting).
End of part 1 !
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Gees...
looks like you got some work ahead of you there *%*
Will be great to see this one finished, before and after photos.
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Clear coating this old girl too?
SC is going strong. My HH has contact on it but it looks like new, bummer for you and your client hey.
Another good thread to watch.
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Great post Nino
There would be so many hrs work in this but the finished game will be worth all the effort
I think this is Andys game Greenechidna I really like looking at these restos Howzat
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Clear coating this old girl too?
SC is going strong. My HH has contact on it but it looks like new, bummer for you and your client hey.
Another good thread to watch.
Yes - the same approach as the Surf Champ. It was a minor setback, but I'll make sure the playfield rework will be worth the wait.
Great post Nino
There would be so many hrs work in this but the finished game will be worth all the effort
I think this is Andys game Greenechidna I really like looking at these restos Howzat
It is - and Andy has been incredibly patient. But it will be worth the wait. Just ask his namesake #@#
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Look forward to see the end result. I remember the play on High Hand well when it was released as it was one of the most chalenging games at the time. Very popular title for both operator and player.
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Yeah, I've been waiting a while but it's ok.....I'm happy just to get this title and know Nino's doing the restore. I have no doubt It'll turn out the usual high standard.
High Hand is a top shelf wedgehead with great art and great rules. 16 well placed drop targets $#$ and 20k/special in the kickout once you've knocked them all down
This'll be my last machine for a while... weve recently picked up a Volley and Mitch's Universe came last week....work started on the rec room with a wall coming down on Saturday so hopefully we will have the lions share done by the time HH arrives.
Nice to see things kicked off.... It looks a mess but not nearly as bad as the Pro Football. I hope it doesn't give you any more unexpected strife Nino.
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Yeah, I've been waiting a while but it's ok.....I'm happy just to get this title and know Nino's doing the restore. I have no doubt It'll turn out the usual high standard.
High Hand is a top shelf wedgehead with great art and great rules. 16 well placed drop targets $#$ and 20k/special in the kickout once you've knocked them all down
This'll be my last machine for a while... weve recently picked up a Volley and Mitch's Universe came last week....work started on the rec room with a wall coming down on Saturday so hopefully we will have the lions share done by the time HH arrives.
Nice to see things kicked off.... It looks a mess but not nearly as bad as the Pro Football. I hope it doesn't give you any more unexpected strife Nino.
Pro Football was a restoration that I thoroughly enjoyed, and I expect the same from this machine.
No strife at all Andy. In fact, I look forward to the Wedgehead restores more than anything ! The stencils are ready, the paint has been matched and I hope the weather will be warm this weekend ^^^
The plans for the playfield are in place. I've been more than pleased with recent developments in clearcoats that suit EMs.
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Having been told by Andy he was getting this game from you Nino, i've been waiting for this resto thread!! *%* Even with your playfield mylar removal woes (Andy had mentioned to me that that had happened), i reckon it'll come up a treat when you're done, and i'll finally get to see and play one of your restored games when he gets it which i'm really looking forward to ^^^ ^^^ (haven't played this title before btw)
Since Andy's slowly but surely been helping to whittle down my EM collection and building up what will be a nice collection when he's done, he has plenty of them to play in the mean time while HH is being done... having had about six or seven EMs i'm now down to ONE EM.. for the moment, that will change soon enough *%*
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I had a project one of these but moved it on a few months ago (without ever having had it running in the 2 years i had it LOL) because I since scored an El Dorado (also a non working project) , also because I have too many projects !
When I had the High Hand I was thinking of the possibility of adding another stepper or something , to allow targets to be reset when they were all down .
Never thought the whole idea through, but I reckon a mod could be done .
Watching this thread with interest , Nino.
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Repaint Update.
The cabinet was a mess, and some of the delamination I thought I'd repaired, came back to haunt me while prepping the cabinet (undercoat). I'd undercoat the cabinet and it looked perfect, and then 2 days later - a section would split. Sand back, repaint, wait 2 days, and then another section would be affected. Sand back, repair and then another undercoat and it was fine after 2-3 days, so I prep for base and as I'm sanding, I notice more problems. Wood is natural - it sometimes does not behave as it should !
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20093.JPG)
The basecoat is now ready - I waited a full week with the cab in the sun to ensure there would be no more issues prior to the basecoat. No dramas here at all.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20178.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20179.JPG)
I painted the headbox base black, and then painted the webbing effect. I use a cheap touch up gun setup just for webbing. Works every time !
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20186.JPG)
Now there is an interesting fact that is almost always missed with the EXACT colour and finish of a 1970's Wedgehead (different entirely from a 60's era game). The 70's Wedgeheads were in fact CREAM - not "white", "off white" or antique white". They ARE cream. Let me demonstrate ;
Here is a picture of my Sky Jump, with the cream area clearly visible behind the door. This area is the exact colour and finish. This is a PERFECT match to the base I used on my Pro Football restoration, and the original cream on the High Hand. You can see where some restorers get stumped - the original base cream is sometimes so faded, it disappears into the primer white color. These cabinets were primed during production OR the cream pigment from a base white fades leaving just the base. So here is the proof ;
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20177.JPG)
Time to paint the RED sections. Pictures show the cabinet completely covered. Paint is airborne and FINDS its way into areas I don't want it to go. "Overkill" ? YES - I'd rather spend the extra time and materials doing the cabinet once rather than touching up areas from overspray !
Mask applied
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20188.JPG)
Light coats - maybe a mist followed by two normal passes
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20193.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20196.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20201.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20202.JPG)
Black Section
Same process as the Red sections
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20204.JPG)
Cabinet completed !
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20206.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20208.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20209.JPG)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20211.JPG)
Placed in the factory awaiting the next stage
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20216.JPG)
A HUGE milestone in this restoration. A lot more work than usual, but the rewards far exceed the frustrations.
The stencils are Gavin's (Retropin) and were absolutely perfect - the best on the market. ^^^
Playfield has been sent off for initial clear to lock in the existing paintwork. That process will be covered here in much the same way (and effort) as Genie.
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Very nice work.
Love following your techniques, just a shame there has been less posts on restoration- way too busy I bet - work equals money not posts (unfortunately <..>)
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Lookin' GREAT so far Nino ^^^ ^^^ the webbing turned out really good too!!
Andy will be VERY pleased i'm sure *%* *%*
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Very nice work.
Love following your techniques, just a shame there has been less posts on restoration- way too busy I bet - work equals money not posts (unfortunately <..>)
Thanks for the kind words.
Less restorations last year was due to the Business being set up and other Family Business' that distracted me. I also had A LOT of repair work AND the typical newbie that got burnt and needed help. Sad to say, I've already had the first "Christmas Pinball" booked in that was rushed out the door by a dealer and was not done properly. I'm a real sucker in that way.
EVERY single restoration I've done in since this forum began has been documented and will be posted. I'm a few behind (as in games I've done and moved on without starting a thread yet).
Lookin' GREAT so far Nino ^^^ ^^^ the webbing turned out really good too!!
Andy will be VERY pleased i'm sure *%* *%*
I keep a few touch up guns setup for different effects - one is webbing and the other is "splatter". Saves time setting up the same gun for different purposes. Loads of fun doing the splatter. Hilarious on humid days as the paint turns into "spider web" straight out of the gun (not suitable for painting a pinball) !
Andy has been a VERY patient and understanding customer. It was my idea to do the full repaint, and I'm sure it will be worth the wait for him as this cabinet looks great. Someone once said to me "art takes time". Looking at a cabinet repaint that took the Gottlieb factory 1 hour to initially paint, and my XX hours to do the same job.. I feel like a bit of a BS "artist" !
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Well look at that........
Good things come to those that wait.
Nice stuff Nino...sent a shiver down my spine when I saw it
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Well look at that........
Good things come to those that wait.
Nice stuff Nino...sent a shiver down my spine when I saw it
Thrilled to hear that Andy. I can't wait until you see it in the flesh.
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Cab looks great Nino ^^^
I must remember about the tip regarding Cream basecoat .. I will probably repaint my El Dorado at some stage which will be my 1st Gottlieb EM repaint.
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This restoration and I have a "love / hate" relationship. I love looking at the restored cabinet, and I hate that it is still HERE and not in it's new home.
A decision was made to remove the mylar, and the job of restoring the playfield would be undertaken (earlier updates). The playfield has had it's first clear to lock in the work done and ensure no further deterioration. I can now work with a blank canvas and attack each section in isolation. If you look at the entire job, it becomes too difficult. so I break it down. There will be "sealing clearcoats" as I did with Genie. That way, the hours of work are locked it, and if i make a mistake later on, I can just remove that work.
Looking at the playfield, I chose to start with red. It is easy, and will help me get back into the groove quickly.
Here's the starting point ;
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20225.jpg)
The left side of the lower playfield is where the planking is out of control. The clear has locked in the playfield.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20223.jpg)
Before I start, I scan areas I will need to go back to later on. I might have Gavin make some lettering stencils for these areas.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20234.jpg)
I'm going to do both inlanes. In fact, 90% of this playfield will be repainted. So here is the starting point ;
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20233.jpg)
I use Tamiya modelling tape and frisket. Tape off the areas I don't want to paint. Then with light coats of thin paint, I airbrush the areas ;
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20235.jpg)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20236.jpg)
Remove the masking, and the area is completed (except the lines which will be done after a clearcoat
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20238.jpg)
Moving on to the Yellow sections. Again, an easy colour on the playfield. I masked out some of the artwork. My wife matched the yellow, as I'm completely useless at colour matching.
The lower damage ;
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20242.jpg)
Masked and ready to airbrush the new paint
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20241.jpg)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20243.jpg)
Paint applied. Had to go 3 coats in damaged areas. All thin coats - don't go overboard !
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20244.jpg)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20245.jpg)
Masking removed. That's an improvement !
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20246.jpg)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20247.jpg)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20248.jpg)
Happy with the improvement. Next - Cyan !
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20249.jpg)
:D
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Thats coming along nicely so far Nino ^^^ ^^^
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Great job on the cabinet and playfield, love your work Nino. following this with great interest. :)
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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it looks like its going really well Nino .
What sort of paint are you using ?
Cheers
Dave
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that's great, the skill you blokes have got amazes me. that cabinet looks A1 @@*
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Looking very nice Nino. ^^^
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it looks like its going really well Nino .
What sort of paint are you using ?
Cheers
Dave
Jo Sonja - Spotlight stock them at $5 a tube.
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it looks like its going really well Nino .
What sort of paint are you using ?
Cheers
Dave
Jo Sonja - Spotlight stock them at $5 a tube.
Do you then thin it to use with an air gun?
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Coming along very nicely Nino, a significant improvement on what you started with. Well done ^^^
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it looks like its going really well Nino .
What sort of paint are you using ?
Cheers
Dave
Jo Sonja - Spotlight stock them at $5 a tube.
Do you then thin it to use with an air gun?
Yes - I use the Jo Sonja Flow Medium - you have to use this medium with an airbrush. I thin it out completely, as you really don't need too much paint to cover an entire area once you get the hang of it. Thin coats work much better than a heavy / thick coat.
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Moving on to the large maroon section. I was going to do the Cyan areas, but I thought I'd go the larger section. This was a tedious and long process to mask the areas, so I did it in four sections across 2 days. Three light coats. The key is not to rush the areas.
Mask the badly planked area on the LHS (sealed with a Clearcoat previously).
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20258.jpg)
You can see the top section is already drying after the second (heavier) coat. You can tell were I've gone a bit heavier in the dried area (still wet). This all blends in - but it should dry uniform.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20259.jpg)
The RHS ;
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20260.jpg)
The original maroon colour was under the ball guide, and slightly darker than the playfield which had faded over time. So the top LHS and RHS are the correct "darker" colour.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20261.jpg)
Central and lower section are done a day later. I allow at least 24 hours as I need to mask over painted areas and I don't want any paint lifting.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20263.jpg)
Main areas completed.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20265.jpg)
The only downside is that the "Gottlieb" logo is painted over. I don't like waterslide decals, so it will be left as is. A huge improvement from what it was.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20266.jpg)
I will let the playfield settle and revisit it with a view to either leaving it for it's next clear, or possibly doing some of the white areas (not the cards yet). Linework is always left until last.
:D
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This is awesome work Nino, Thank you for sharing your process and details.
This has inspired me to look at an airbrush for future playfield work.
I just bought a plotter for making cabinet stencils and I can see it being handy for making playfield lettering stencils also.
Everytime I read one of your restoration posts I seem to learn something which is brilliant!
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Looking amazing great to see an old girl getting some love
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You should add another relay Nino so the targets reset when they are all knocked down. &&
I was thinking about that when I had mine but moved it on before I did anything more than strip the playfield
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You should add another relay Nino so the targets reset when they are all knocked down. &&
I was thinking about that when I had mine but moved it on before I did anything more than strip the playfield
I want to do that to my Big Shot, any idea how I can find out more so that I can do this?
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Hi Brettski
Thanks for the Zinc plating procedure.
I don't know where I can get the zinc balls.
I am restoring a 1948 jukebox and it is nickle plated. I may give it a try.
Thanks again.
Gordo...
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Hi Brettski
Thanks for the Zinc plating procedure.
I don't know where I can get the zinc balls.
I am restoring a 1948 jukebox and it is nickle plated. I may give it a try.
Thanks again.
Gordo...
No worries Gordo!
Try a local electro plater for the zinc, they often have scrap!
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Huge difference...very pleased with the result.
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Hey Nino,
Just catching up with your restoration post, enjoying the read, very inspirational.
I'm also looking at doing some PF touch ups and will certainly use some of your techniques.
I might need to scan some of the existing artwork as well, so I was just wondering what type of
scanner your using. I can see it's a HP but I haven't seen one like that before (post #17)?
Thanks
TheJudge
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Huge difference...very pleased with the result.
It has a lot more work done, I just lost the hard drive with updates, but recent photos will fill in the gaps. It has come a long way.
Hey Nino,
Just catching up with your restoration post, enjoying the read, very inspirational.
I'm also looking at doing some PF touch ups and will certainly use some of your techniques.
I might need to scan some of the existing artwork as well, so I was just wondering what type of
scanner your using. I can see it's a HP but I haven't seen one like that before (post #17)?
Thanks
TheJudge
Thanks for you kind words. This restoration has taken the longest in my history of restoration work, but it started out as just a simple job that I wanted to continually improve on. The entire playfield will have been repainted - so I'm thinking it will be presented as almost a new playfield. Considering it is a "Holy Grail" - it deserved the full treatment. I appreciate and acknowledge the owner's patience. It has been one hell of a journey, but it will be the best Wedgehead I think I will ever restore.
Scanner is a HP4760. Old technology, and very hard to track down. But it does the job for me perfectly.
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Hi Nino,
When you are preparing for painting, do you lay down the frisket film first and then use the modelling tape for the edges ?
Regards,
Dan
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Hi Nino,
When you are preparing for painting, do you lay down the frisket film first and then use the modelling tape for the edges ?
Regards,
Dan
Depends on the area. If it is a straight line, I will use wide 18mm tape. If it is slightly curved I will use 10mm. A curve would be 6 mm. I'm using a new Tamiya tape that is 3 mm for steep curves with mixed results.
Frisket is used for areas I cannot use tape. I lay down the frisket and then using a scalpel, cut out the pattern I want to paint.
First choice is always tape, as it never bleeds. Frisket can be tricky using an airbrush as it can raise during painting.
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I just picked up a High Hand and it looks to be in a similar condition that yours was.
Therefore, I'll be going back over the thread again now that it's more relevant to me :)
Quick question on the air brush paint.
I have tried using the createx opaque range but find that I have to do a lot of coats to get good coverage and I get a noticeable edge after I remove the mask.
Also the colour doesn't really cover darken areas that well. Do you put down a white base first or is it that the paint I'm using doesn't provide a solid enough colour?
I'm new to air brushing so sorry if it's a basic question @.@
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I just picked up a High Hand and it looks to be in a similar condition that yours was.
Therefore, I'll be going back over the thread again now that it's more relevant to me :)
Quick question on the air brush paint.
I have tried using the createx opaque range but find that I have to do a lot of coats to get good coverage and I get a noticeable edge after I remove the mask.
Also the colour doesn't really cover darken areas that well. Do you put down a white base first or is it that the paint I'm using doesn't provide a solid enough colour?
I'm new to air brushing so sorry if it's a basic question @.@
"Noticeable edge" means you are using too much paint.You should only use enough paint to give that area the colour you want. If you HAVE to use a lot of paint, then I would change to a better paint supplier. I use Jo Sonja's range, and they are not the "top shelf", but they do the job and are easy to work with.
For any given area, I have one "mist" coat, then a max of three, even and consistent coats. Doing that "extra coat" for playfield work is not necessary at all, and will creat the edge you speak of. Also, NEVER go with a heavy coat. Always go with thin coats.
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Thanks for that Nino,
As Spotlight have sales on tomorrow I might go get some Jo Sonyas and try them.
Thanks
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Thanks for that Nino,
As Spotlight have sales on tomorrow I might go get some Jo Sonyas and try them.
Thanks
Make sure you buy the large white and black as starters. Also buy flow medium to thin the paint 50/50 with your airbrush. Practice as much as you can. I remember when I started out (Tim and Gav taught me from their experience), it took a lot of mucking around.
As for this restoration - There's a "gap" from where I left off to where I am now (pictures lost on hard disk), so I'm progressing slowly, but the hard work had paid off.
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Looking awesome can't wait to see how the Clubs turn out when you are finished
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The playfield restoration has progressed. I think by the time I'm done, 100% of the playfield will be repainted !
So now I move on to some linework. This is time consuming, but it brings together all the repainted areas.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20272_resize.jpg)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20273_resize.jpg)
In the photo below, you can see the finished linework, and the curved line being set up.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20274_resize.jpg)
Odd jobs around the playfield like insert borders..
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20276_resize.jpg)
This is how detailed the work is - the line separating the yellow has to be perfect.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20279_resize.jpg)
Moving on to white areas !
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20280_resize.jpg)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20282_resize.jpg)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20285_resize.jpg)
More line work and then the Cards - which will be a massive challenge for me !
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20286_resize.jpg)
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Oh the line work.. its the worst part isn't it?.. bloody great job here though. The stencil/ frisket approach for curves really pisses me off and a do a lot of it freehand as if im pinstriping old school ways. It's a 1 off chance approach though and I always get as nervous as hell.
Ill have a stencil out to you for the cards mate this coming week with the other stencils. Ive sat on this for a long time I know as I lost all motivation for anything pinball for quite a while. But in light of recent events, I find I cant be busy enough...consider it done mate
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Oh the line work.. its the worst part isn't it?.. bloody great job here though. The stencil/ frisket approach for curves really pisses me off and a do a lot of it freehand as if im pinstriping old school ways. It's a 1 off chance approach though and I always get as nervous as hell.
Ill have a stencil out to you for the cards mate this coming week with the other stencils. Ive sat on this for a long time I know as I lost all motivation for anything pinball for quite a while. But in light of recent events, I find I cant be busy enough...consider it done mate
The curves are by far the hardest part. Although i have progressed a bit further, it is difficult to sit down for a long session of linework, and then you look at the playfield the next day and you are not entirely happy with it. I still enjoy it, but it is HARD work. But this will be worth it.
Thanks for the help with the card section Gav, that is BY FAR the hardest part of the job !
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a ton of work there Nino and yes a lot of cards.....
looks really sharp
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a ton of work there Nino and yes a lot of cards.....
looks really sharp
At the end of the process, almost the entire playfield has been repainted. Looking back at the original pics with mylar, I think the right choice was made. Just a TON of work, but very satisfying, albeit, it has been a LONG time..
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Hi Nino,
You said that you clear coated the playfield before you started any re-painting and then more coats of clear as you went along to lock in repaired sections. Can you advise what clear coat you use and do you do that yourself or do you send it out.
Thanks and regards,
Dan
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Hi Nino,
You said that you clear coated the playfield before you started any re-painting and then more coats of clear as you went along to lock in repaired sections. Can you advise what clear coat you use and do you do that yourself or do you send it out.
Thanks and regards,
Dan
Dan - I don't do the clearcoat "in house", as I don't have the expertise. The older playfields are sent to a friend of mine that has mastered the process that I like working with. These generally take a lot longer (Genie, High Hand and Bow and Arrow), but I do all the touch up work as that part of the playfield restoration is within my skillset. The Clearcoat product - I don't know the exact name, but I will find out for you. The distributor is literally within walking distance of my Factory.
Regarding the status of this playfield restoration - more hours of linework and a couple mistakes I had to fix. Hopefully the stencils for the cards will arrive soon #@#
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Hi Nino,
Just catching up on your progress as I have this same pin with the same issues.
The playfields starting to look good after a lot of hours spent. I am particularly interested on how the cards are going, any update of the part of the restoration ?
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Hi Nino,
Just catching up on your progress as I have this same pin with the same issues.
The playfields starting to look good after a lot of hours spent. I am particularly interested on how the cards are going, any update of the part of the restoration ?
I scanned the card area, and Gav has made a stencil for me to use to do the outline of the cards, and other areas. Just waiting for the stencil to find it's way to my place. It will come together quickly, but this part was always going to be tricky.
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I scanned the card area, and Gav has made a stencil for me to use to do the outline of the cards, and other areas. Just waiting for the stencil to find it's way to my place. It will come together quickly, but this part was always going to be tricky.
Just wondering if the stencils are just a once off or would they be readily available to the public to purchase, as I believe that I would probably also need them?
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I scanned the card area, and Gav has made a stencil for me to use to do the outline of the cards, and other areas. Just waiting for the stencil to find it's way to my place. It will come together quickly, but this part was always going to be tricky.
Just wondering if the stencils are just a once off or would they be readily available to the public to purchase, as I believe that I would probably also need them?
I don't see an issue with that at all. You would need to contact Gavin directly. I will be returning to this playfield once the stencils have arrived, and I'll check that they are 100%.
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Here's another restore that has taken way to long. But there has been progress since the playfield card stencils arrived 2 weeks ago. This is the difficult card lines in the center of the playfield. Gav's magic will ensure crisp and well rounded cards, rather than the "hit and miss" of freehand or masking.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20323_resize.jpg)
I have rebuilt all the Drop Target assemblies.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20321_resize.jpg)
Detailed work to the black DT assy..
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20318_resize.jpg)
Cabinet is assembled, and I'm sending off some parts to be replated before fitting everything. Just love the finish of the cabinet ;
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20325_resize.jpg)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20326_resize.jpg)
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20327_resize.jpg)
The playfield will be completed next, and off for clearcoat. Just about everything else is done.
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Looks great so far mate *%*
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Cab artwork looks fantastic Nino
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The old door was tired and was never an option for this restoration. From previous plating testing, I had a lot of spare Gottlieb door parts that were plated successfully. I ended up using them for this machine. The rest of the door parts were hand polished.
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20331_resize.jpg)
The door skin is a PBR repro. For the price, it is a no brainer !
(http://australianpinballrestorations.com.au/pictures/Restorations/High%20Hand/High%20Hand%20330_resize.jpg)
It might JUST be "the door", but it is one of the FIRST things you see on a pinball. So I'm really pleased with it.
There's a lot of parts that have been at the platers, and they return on Monday - So I'm excited to see the replated parts.
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Now I have some time up my sleeve, I'm updating some project's status. This particular restoration was ceased due to becoming unfinancial. It will be continued once backlog has been done, and will be for sale. No timeline on this project at this stage.