The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Brettski on July 16, 2015, 01:27:52 AM
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Hi again,
I have picked up an old Gottlieb System 1 Cleopatra that needs a lot of work but was still working (just) when I got it.
Very much a wreck of a machine but still has potential, it has water damage on the cabinet and the wood is rotted so it will need a rebuild , back box is ok but boards seem to have faults. The displays seem ok and then there is the playfield..
The playfield was covered in mylar that had yellowed badly and the adhesive had darkened in the wood grain which left it looking terrible plus all the inserts were sunken deep.
After removing the mylar it appeared that it had been repaired before and had paint touch ups which came off when I used Isopropyl alcohol to remove the adhesive which left the playfield in quite a state..
I cleared the playfield busted out the paints and filled the inserts with clear and it is now ready for clear coating.
Here are some pics of the playfield repair which is the first stage of the project, depending on how it came up would decide the direction I would go in and so far I am quite happy with the results, looks like this might end up being a full scale resto but hopefully worth it.. more to come
Cheers: Brettski... :)
(http://www.strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/playfield/pic1.jpg)
(http://www.strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/playfield/pic2.jpg)
(http://www.strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/playfield/pic3.jpg)
(http://www.strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/playfield/pic4.jpg)
(http://www.strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/playfield/pic5.jpg)
(http://www.strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/playfield/pic6.jpg)
(http://www.strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/playfield/pic7.jpg)
(http://www.strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/playfield/pic8.jpg)
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Nice work, should look even better after clearing
What is the filler on the lower left for?
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Thanks Chris..
The filler was used to repair that corner of the playfieled, the whole left front corner of the machine had severe water damage which also damaged that part of the playfield.
It is the area hidden under the apron so it was just a tidy up, I have painted it a close brown.. lucky it is hidden.. :)
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Talk about making strawberry jam out of pig Sh-t . What a fantastic transformation. Some people are bloody talented and you are one of them my boy. Roughly how many hours went into just the playfield ?
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LOL Thanks Plong!
Love your analogy ... :)
As for the hours spent there are way too many but I can't help myself, it becomes an obsession and takes over my life!! :)
2 full weekends and a few hours each night over a two week period, I took it slow to get it right.. :)
1 of the weekends was just getting the inserts correctly built up as they were very deeply sunk.
Thanks again for your comments, very inspiring.. :)
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Nice work there ^^^
The playfield repairs around those bonus inserts it excellent.
The cabinet - We (HRP / APR) are looking to reproduce SYS 1 cabinets, and if there is enough interest, we will look at doing a small run - We need at least 5 cabinets. APR needs three and maybe a fourth..
This could be a viable option for this game.
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Thanks Nino,
It sounds good but I guess it comes down to price then shipping to QLD, if you can provide me with a quote I will certainly consider it..
I use acrylic paints like others do but I also have acrylic paint pens made by Posca, the black and the white are used mostly as the other colours don't match the playfield colours and can't be mixed. I paint all the base colours then black keyline with the black pen, let dry then brush lightly with a small amount of cabothane clear to seal it. You must seal it before you apply the coat of clear as it can drag into the other colours but not if you seal it first. You still need a steady hand but it makes life easier than trying to do keylines with a brush, especially some of the real thin ones. The tip is .07mm which works out great.
I have actually re painted around 95% of this playfield.. :)
Much appreciated.. Brettski... :)
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Here are some pics of the playfield after clear coat with KBS, it's hard to photograph being so shiny and the photo's don't do the finish any justice as far as seeing the depth etc as some of you would know.
Four coats of KBS Diamond Finish Clear Coat.. I will wait a week or more before hitting it with the polish..
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Looks very nice Brett
Did you thin the KBS or use it straight?
How long did you leave it between coats?
Did you sand it between coats?
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Looks very nice Brett
Did you thin the KBS or use it straight?
How long did you leave it between coats?
Did you sand it between coats?
Ok, no thinners it is straight from the can, conditions we quite favourable but will probably thin next time..
Left it about 4 hours between coats and sanded after the third coat mainly to remove dust specs etc for a final smooth finish.
2 coats yesterday, two coats today.. so the first two had over night to cure...
Sanded with P320 grit then 1200, unfortunately I have some dust specs on the final coat but should buff out, unavoidable but minimal.
I used an applicator called SHURE-LINE Handi Painter from Bunnings to apply the KBS and found it better than a foam brush to use.
see here..
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=13747.msg178529#msg178529
Very happy with what I am seeing especially compared to what it was like when I first brought it home.. colours are amazing.. :)
Cheers: Brettski...
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Update..
I was not completely satisfied with the results, a few areas had some streaking from not thinning the KBS so I sanded it and then thinned the KBS to 30% and gave it a final coat. Much better, completely flat so I recommend using the thinners especially on the final coat..
Now to wait a week and then give it a buff before reassembling the playfield. It came with a fresh set of drop targets so while the assembly is detached I will replace them.
Time to get some parts orders in now that I know what I am up against and the direction I will take this resto in.
Also need to rebuild the cabinet as there is no base in it and the sides are rotted, as I said earlier this machine was a real basket case which gives me more determination to give it a decent go!
Backglass is bad but maybe not completely out of the realm of repair, I am thinking of trying waterslide decals to repair the damaged areas but will mean scraping back paint.
Ultimately there is not much to lose as it looks horrible the way it is, well to me anyway so a good attempt may reap a decent result otherwise short of finding a replacement at some huge cost I have a few other ideas up my sleeve such as vinyl print, translite or another idea is to photograph it then fix up in photoshop then have all the black areas (key lines etc) printed to vinyl and applied to a piece of glass then freshly hand paint all the colours back on to the backside of the glass or a combination of paint and waterslide decals..
It will be the biggest challenge of the whole project but not much to lose giving it a go..
I will keep you up to date regarding the direction of the backglass.
The best part of the whole machine is the underside of the playfield, it is in quite good condition which is odd as the rest of the machine is falling apart.
I will leave it at that at the moment because I think the fumes from the KBS are kicking in and I could end up with a backglass full of unicorns.. LOL
Cheers: Brettski... :)
Brettski... :)
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Ok now that the fumes have worn off I think I will leave the backglass for now and move onto the cabinet..
After a bit more thought and research I have decided not to rebuild the cabinet at this stage instead I am going to try a product called Earls Wood Restorer to solidify the rotted timber.
If this works it will save time and money, once this has been applied clamped and cured I can then bog the remaining rough areas then sand back to timber ready for fresh paint.
The biggest hurdle I have is trying to remove the metal rails without damage as they are still good and worth re using with a polish up. I am going to attempt to put a notch in the head of the twist nail with a dremel so I can hopefully get a screwdriver to turn it enough to get a grip with pliers, I will let you know how this works out.. *!@
Playfield is looking great, once polished should be even better..
Here are some pics of the cabinet..
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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The biggest hurdle I have is trying to remove the metal rails without damage as they are still good and worth re using with a polish up. I am going to attempt to put a notch in the head of the twist nail with a dremel so I can hopefully get a screwdriver to turn it enough to get a grip with pliers, I will let you know how this works out.. *!@
The easiest way for me it to centre punch each nail and then carefully drill the heads off.
Once the rails are off I just use some wirecutters to pull them out.
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That sounds like the best bet Chris.. I will give that a shot!
Thanks again..
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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just put some thick tape on the rails just in case you slip
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Thanks Chris,
100 mile an hour tape should do the job! :)
Where do you get the glass channel guides?
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Update!
Rails removed by drilling the tops of the nails off as Chris suggested, all good there!
Playfield cleared and polished ready for reassembly, waiting on parts etc..
Boards checked by Andrew (Beaky) and MPU has multiple faults and not worth fixing so I have ordered a new Pascal 4 in 1 to make it reliable.
Cleaned and inspected underneath the playfield, all coils checked and cleaned, all switches cleaned with an eraser, light sockets cleaned and solder joints checked and reflowed where needed.
Cabinet completely stripped and repair under way, I have used a product called Earl's Wood Hardner to restore the rotted areas of the cabinet caused by water damage and so far quite impressed with this product. Saved heaps of time and some money.. It was $52 a litre and I have used most of it so not so cheap but still better than having to rebuild the cabinet. see pictures below... The wood still looks rotted but it is now rock hard ready to bog and sand which I will start tomorrow..
Re pinned all the board connectors so it has completely fresh contacts, picked up a ripper crimper from Amazon as recommended on this forum, cost me about $40 to get it here including shipping and works great, a must have tool for anyone in the hobby. It is as good as the expensive Molex one except it doesn't have the ratchet mechanism but just as good and easy especially if you have a lot to do like in a Pinball Machine.
http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-16801C-Contact-Clamshell/dp/B000CSC4W2
I have found the best place to get crimps (0.156) is Jaycar.. I buy pkts of 10 crimps and a connector for a $1.20 and throw away the connector. Part # HM3440 if anyone is interested.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/Interconnect/Terminals-%26-Headers/Metric-Locking-Headers/10-Pin-0-156-Header-with-crimp-pins---3-96-pitch/p/HM3440
I also made a crimp removal tool from a small flat jewelers screwdriver and shaped it with the dremel, a few tweaks and it worked great.
Stripped the paint and rust from the Apron and repainted it, then applied a new apron decal from Pinball Rescue, top product!! Apron looks Brand Spankin New!! :)
All the playfield metal parts such as post screws, wire forms, nuts and bolts etc were cleaned up in a rock polisher I got from a local pawn broker.. great piece of equipment this is, everything comes out shiny ready for reassembly with no effort what so ever.. Another piece of equipment I recommend highly!
Here are some pics from recent work...
Cheers: Brettski... :)
(http://strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/update/pic1.jpg)
(http://strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/update/pic2.jpg)
(http://strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/update/pic3.jpg)
(http://strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/update/pic4.jpg)
(http://strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/update/pic5.jpg)
(http://strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/update/pic6.jpg)
(http://strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/update/pic7.jpg)
(http://strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/update/pic8.jpg)
(http://strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/update/pic9.jpg)
(http://strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/update/pic10.jpg)
(http://strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/update/pic11.jpg)
(http://strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/update/pic12.jpg)
(http://strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/update/pic13.jpg)
(http://strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/update/pic14.jpg)
(http://strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/update/pic15.jpg)
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Great work, it's coming along very nicely. ^^^
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Nice one, and thanks for sharing some of the tips.
Love the shiny apron!
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I have now fitted a new base into the cabinet.. I used 12mm ply which will firm it right up.
It is almost ready for painting, using builders bog I repaired the bottom edges and damage to the front and sides then using gyprock top coat I covered all the panels and sanded it smooth.
This machine is base coat white and has grey spackle so I made a device (see pics below) to try and achieve this, well it hasn't been tested yet but fingers crossed it does the job. No I am not taking orders for these yet! LOL :D
Stay tuned for more..
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Looking good !
For the spotted look - Grab an old toothbrush, dip in it the black paint and flick it on the cabinet. Try it first on some cardboard. I usually don't thin the paint, but sometimes I do - depending on if the brush is hard or soft. Trial and error. It will take 30 minutes to have the effect working perfectly, and 2 minutes to do the cabinet. Make sure you do the speckle straight after the base. Don't so any stenciling beforehand.
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That's a nice solid base!
For the speckles, I take the small red insert out of a spray can nozzle (so the white trigger but is still there) and use shorts bursts from a distance.
Doesn't take very long and if you practice on a piece of cardboard you will find it looks exactly like the original.
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That apron come up beautifully!
I used a small brush (similar to a toothbrush) and ran an old comb along it for my speckles and it worked really well. I ended up thinning it a bit as that seemed to work best with the particular brush I was using.
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Thanks everyone for the excellent advice..
Also thanks Nino as I was wondering when to spackle.. :)
Some great ideas there, maybe I got a bit carried away with the Spackulator but I still have to at least test it out! lol
I will post the results!
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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This weeks update,
I have finished the cabinet and have it ready for the stencils, the Spackulator worked a treat creating the speckle effect..
I made a video of it in action.. And I didn't get one drop of paint on me!
https://youtu.be/H5nM5ghmTYw
Really happy with how the cabinet came up so I couldn't put that dirty old transformer board back in it the way it was, after stripping it down and cleaning all the wires with baby wipes (these things clean dust and grime of anything) the board was sanded and coated in KBS. All the screws were polished in the rock polisher and the tranny brackets were polished on a bench grinder with a wire brush wheel. Now it's reassembled the next thing is to reflow all the solder joints and repin the connectors. I also noticed it is missing a Line Filter so I will grab one from Jaycar and connect it up.
Here are a few shots of the cabinet with speckle and a before and after of the tranny board.
Cheers: Brettski... :)
P.S.
Don't rush me with orders for the Spackulator!! LOL :D
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I added an EMI Line Filter to the Transformer board, do I need to add a Varistor?? I have one on my Bally machine but don't have one on Sinbad so I am not sure..
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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This weeks update!
This week I managed to create the stencils and then painted them on the cabinet over the weekend.
I also dismantled the coin door, the wife got in on the action for the first time! she removed some jammed coins from the coin slots.
Found $2.45 and a washer jammed in with wasp nests, she was having so much fun digging them out I didn't have the heart to show her how the slots come out and split in 2. LOL
I had the file given to me by boots for the cabinet stencils printed to white vinyl and then cut out the pieces with a scalpel, then instead of peeling of the backing and applying the sticky vinyl to the cabinet I used spray adhesive to create a low tack and sprayed onto the backing of the vinyl, this is because the vinyl I had it printed to is permanent adhesive not designed for stencils. This also allowed me to then spray the adhesive on the reverse side after the first shot of paint and flip it to do the otherside. Plus it only cost me $25 for the Vinyl printed to scale.
Worked perfectly plus I used Ironlak paints which are high pigmented and dry quick, I was able to spray both colours on both sides within 2 hours with no lifting of paint whatsover. The colour match wasn't too bad either for spray cans but Ironlak have an awesome selection, this is the stuff Graffiti artists use for large murals etc. Looks great on a retro pinball cabinet.
https://www.eckersleys.com.au/products/ironlak-spray-paint
After dismantling the backbox I found squatters behind the aluminum ground plane, lots of them but thank god they were old and empty. This thing was full of wasp nests all throughout the machine.
Also started to re populate the playfield, waiting on plastics and some other bits to come from PBR but shouldn't be long now.
Here are some pics..
Cheers: Brettski...
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More pics from this weeks stencil job!
Brettski... :)
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Wow, looking great Brettski. Love the cabinet work. ^^^
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Make sure you spaculate on the inside of the cabinet as well - the areas where the white sides are visible.
Project is coming along nicely. I remember my first repaint - I used acetate sheets and it took my at least 100 hours. It was a lot of fun - but not practical for me these days !
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Thanks Nino and Crashramp
You are right Nino, I have no spackle on the inside. I will take care of it when I spackulate the head box!
I was kind of lucky with my first one which was Strikes and Spares as it came with a set of licensed stencils when I bought it and my Sinbad has a really nice original cabinet so no work was needed there. I found this method I used on Cleopatra to create and apply stencils really easy as long as you have a digital image to begin with otherwise I would trace the artwork (if any) and mark it out on white vinyl then do the rest as above. My print guy has a plotter that can cut out the shapes for me, we are just having a miss communication on how to prepare the image but should have this sorted soon so no more hand cutting on future projects as long as I have a digital file.
Like you Nino I really enjoyed making my own stencil but I can appreciate it not being practical from a business point of view. Do you buy the stencil and add it to the cost?
I restore my machines for my own collection with no intention of selling, of course this is sure to happen down the track but without being too ridiculous on the amount spent ::)
I like to do a thorough job and challenge myself at the same time. Cleopatra is coming in a little pricey now with the original buy price of $750 then $450 for a new Pascal 4 in 1 board, other parts and hardware items has pushed it out to around $2000 and then hours of labour but as I said it is for me! :)
Love the input and encouragement on this forum, especially the little overlooked details from Nino, it's these detail that make the difference in the end.
Cheers: Brettski... :)
Thanks again guy's getting closer.
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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coming along nicely Brett, you've done a great job with those stencils
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coming along nicely Brett, you've done a great job with those stencils
Thanks Chris,
Helps to have a good digital file to begin with, thanks so much for your help with the image for this artwork.
Would love to get a library together of cabinet artwork in digital format.. something to work on.. :)
Cheers: Brett.
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Nice work Brett! You are getting quite a collection. Might have to drop by for a couple of games one day when they are finished. &&
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Nice work Brett! You are getting quite a collection. Might have to drop by for a couple of games one day when they are finished. &&
Thanks Dan,
If you are ever up the northern end of the coast you should drop by for a game or two.. :)
You certainly inspired me with your Indiana Jones, lets see how you play old school .. LOL
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Thanks Nino and Crashramp
You are right Nino, I have no spackle on the inside. I will take care of it when I spackulate the head box!
I was kind of lucky with my first one which was Strikes and Spares as it came with a set of licensed stencils when I bought it and my Sinbad has a really nice original cabinet so no work was needed there. I found this method I used on Cleopatra to create and apply stencils really easy as long as you have a digital image to begin with otherwise I would trace the artwork (if any) and mark it out on white vinyl then do the rest as above. My print guy has a plotter that can cut out the shapes for me, we are just having a miss communication on how to prepare the image but should have this sorted soon so no more hand cutting on future projects as long as I have a digital file.
Like you Nino I really enjoyed making my own stencil but I can appreciate it not being practical from a business point of view. Do you buy the stencil and add it to the cost?
I restore my machines for my own collection with no intention of selling, of course this is sure to happen down the track but without being too ridiculous on the amount spent ::)
I like to do a thorough job and challenge myself at the same time. Cleopatra is coming in a little pricey now with the original buy price of $750 then $450 for a new Pascal 4 in 1 board, other parts and hardware items has pushed it out to around $2000 and then hours of labour but as I said it is for me! :)
Love the input and encouragement on this forum, especially the little overlooked details from Nino, it's these detail that make the difference in the end.
Cheers: Brettski... :)
Thanks again guy's getting closer.
Cheers: Brettski... :)
Yes - I buy the stencil and incorporate it into the repaint quote. I traditionally use Gav's stencils (best in the world), but he is a busy man so I have to wait for his spare time. So I have a lot of games waiting in the queue. I did venture away from Gavin's stencils (Twisted Crap) and they were completely wrong and I ended up spend 10 hours correcting the mistakes. There's another guy claiming to make the best, but he never answers emails, and there are not a lot of customer feedback, so I don't know if he actually sells any ? (Well at lest I know he won't sell to Aussies).
When I repainting as a hobbyist - The Miami Beach and Jacks Open were big jobs, but I found that sitting down and working through the stencils from scratch was fun and it "passed time". now I don't have time at all, so I rely on guys like Gavin to create the stencils. Restorers get a lot of praise if they use the right tools and materials - but the stencils are what makes the work look so good.
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Thanks Nino,
Parts arrived no worries!
Any tips on installing the metal rails, I have never used twist nails before ?
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Thanks Nino,
Parts arrived no worries!
Any tips on installing the metal rails, I have never used twist nails before ?
Cheers: Brettski... :)
Treat the nails like screws
Position the rails on the machine and drill a small pilot hole for every nail then just tap them in.
Don't try and hammer them in like a nail (with no drilled hole) because they will just bend and jam up halfway in.
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Nice Work, I restored a Cleopatra earlier this year. I put in a Flippp PI-P1 board in mine keeping the solenoid driver board & Rottendog power supply.
I also had to replace the front coin door panel. It's a nice game to play.
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Wow, top job!!!
I am almost there but saving the hardest repair for last... The Backglass!!!
Yours looks good! If you know where I can get a good one I would appreciate the heads up.. :)
Thanks for posting your pics, keen to see more if you have them..
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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How about this- A before & after.. I repaired my back glass.
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I also replaced the front door panel on mine.
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Great work Legbolt!
Looks like you had a lot of work to do on yours as well.. but paid off nicely!
My backglass is in EXACTLY tha same condition as yours before the repair, keen to know your process as I know it will never look great again but love to make it acceptable.
From the pics you did a good job there!
Thanks for sharing your pics...
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Thank's Brettski, Mine was a wreak too! Just take your time & all comes good. The great thing about the Flippp boards to is you can set up a light display show that Gottleib never considered. I was put on to them by Wiredoug from AA.
This is mine on collection.
Should I post the back-glass repair procedure on your thread your do I start a new one. I don't want to hijack your thread. Cheers
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Thanks Legbolt,
Fair call!, Go with a new thread if you don't mind. ^^^
Geez hard to tell which one was worse, almost identical with damage and wear.
I bought a Flippp 4 in 1 and have it sitting here ready to go in, looking forward to the attract mode light display that you mentioned.
My boards were to unreliable to keep and the main board had spider chip issues so it was game over there!
It's been a slow couple of weeks which has been mainly polishing and rust removal etc but coming along, metal rails are done and coin door almost there but I will make another post with pics for the update!
Thanks for sharing your pics and look forward to reading about the backglass work.
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Will do, If you want to sell your discarded solenoid & power supply PCB's I'd be interested for in them for spare parts.
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I might hang on to the power supply for a spare as I have a Sinbad as well but you are welcome to the MPU and Solenoid boards.. I am happy if you just cover postage costs or free if you are on the Gold Coast and can pick them up..
The MPU powers up and plays but has issues holding memory etc and behaves as if no batteries are in place to hold the high scores, been tested and it's one of the spider chips apparently.
The solenoid board powers up and works fine as I was able to play the game ok before the resto and all solenoids were working.
PM me if you want to go ahead with it..
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Latest Update...
This week my parts order came from the the USA which means I have everything I need now to finish it, I also had to wait for my printer to deliver the final artwork for the back box stencil which arrived in time for the weekend. First thing was to finish of the cabinet and so I stenciled the backbox after installing the metal rails and glass guides on the main cabinet. I regrained and polished the metal rails and coin door face plus I was lucky as the coin door skin was in perfect shape with no dents, just need polishing. The inside of the coin door was competely dismantled and all the rusty bits cleaned, polished and/or painted and then reassembled. The backbox is complete but the Pascal board looks a bit lonely in there but might make a good place to hide shit I don't want the wife to find! ;)
Just finishing off repopulating the playfield and having some trouble with the two star rollovers, the clear got into them and now I have the tedious task of cleaning them out so the work smoothly, unfortunately I broke one of the bits that hold the star in place and will have to work out some clever way to sort it out (suggestions welcome) but once I have them cleared then the playfield can be installed into the cabinet.
Getting closer now, should have it all together by next weekend ready to begin work on the backglass. Going to give myself a crash course in airbrushing then see what I can do there.
Latest pics are below
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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More Pics...
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On the home stretch. Impressive thus far !
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Thanks Nino!,
Yeah the home stretch, all the hard work is behind me now and it's just little details and then the backglass.
It's good to look back at the old pics and really see how far it has come.. here is a before and after I put together..
The parts replaced in this pic are
Door lock
Door Sticker
Flipper Buttons
Ball Shooter
The rest of what you see is original.
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Looks bloody good Brett! Just a small detail but I like how you've used clear leg protectors - a lot of us use them to cover up the "wrinkles" or dents caused by the original legs - but here the resto is looking so good you want to show it all off. Good stuff ^^^
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I managed to find a fix for the broken start insert..
It took me a while but I came up with a usable solution, primitive but works..
Here is how I did it..
In the first pic you will see the broken claws under the insert..
(http://www.strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/insertfix/pic1.jpg)
Next was to cut a piece of drinking straw the length of the claws ...
(http://www.strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/insertfix/pic2.jpg)
Then glued it in like so...
(http://www.strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/insertfix/pic3.jpg)
Then using a piece of clear plastic like used in packaging, (thin and firm) drill a hole slightly bigger than the stem of the star.
(http://www.strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/insertfix/pic4.jpg)
Cut it into a circle and cut a across to the center hole...
(http://www.strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/insertfix/pic5.jpg)
Slip it over the end of the star shaft like a cir-clip, finally you have a fixed start insert... :)
(http://www.strikesandspares.com.au/cleopatra/insertfix/pic6.jpg)
Works like a charm and hopefully help someone else out that gets into this situation.
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Is it difficult to replace this star switch? I thought I saw some on rtbb???? But could be mistaken. Hope this helps if you were looking for some
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Is it difficult to replace this star switch? I thought I saw some on rtbb???? But could be mistaken. Hope this helps if you were looking for some
Yeah it is difficult, especially since I have already coated it in Clear KBS. I broke it while cleaning the clear I accidentally got in the insert which created the dilemma.
This was the best solution I could find.
Thanks anyway..
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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great work.I`ve enjoyed reading both of your builds so far.
The clear leg protectors , were they bought or made? if home-made what material did you use and what thickness ?
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great work.I`ve enjoyed reading both of your builds so far.
The clear leg protectors , were they bought or made? if home-made what material did you use and what thickness ?
Thanks Morgo! ^^^
The clear leg protectors i got from RTBB
http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=43_224&products_id=2563
They are great, they protect the cabinet and enable the artwork to show through and just adds to the final finish.
Glad you have enjoyed reading about the machines.
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Finally got it all together and switched it on tonight!!
Well she booted up but after a game I got the "Locked Coil Danger" display so I isolated that to the left slingshot coil, no drama there but I do have an issue with the playfield feature lights not working, all other GI is working good on playfield and backbox. When I do a lamps test only the Extra Ball light between the flippers flashes plus the backbox lights but no playfield bonus lights etc. I have repinned all the connectors but realise that can still be an issue, I am using a Pascal 4in1 board and I am a bit stumped here.. Any help appreciated.
Regards: Brettski... :)
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Coming along nicely now.. eliminated or identified most of if not all the problems!
Sling Shot and Knocker Coil fried
Number 4 Display Faulty
Credit / Ball Display bad connections
And Feature lighting fixed as above!
The Number 4 display does not show the 1 numeral in any of the segments, it is in the display as I have swapped it around and the problem appears in the same display each time.
Can this be fixed or am I looking for a new display??
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Getting closer to the final touches..
Here is a video of it at the stage I have it to at the moment..
https://youtu.be/clc3iIngH0w
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Coming along nicely now.. eliminated or identified most of if not all the problems!
Sling Shot and Knocker Coil fried
Number 4 Display Faulty
Credit / Ball Display bad connections
And Feature lighting fixed as above!
The Number 4 display does not show the 1 numeral in any of the segments, it is in the display as I have swapped it around and the problem appears in the same display each time.
Can this be fixed or am I looking for a new display??
Cheers: Brettski... :)
Could be the display itself. Resolder the legs from the display to the display PCB.
You can get 6 Digit displays from PBR that you solder in. Or just look for a second hand one.
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Getting closer to the final touches..
Here is a video of it at the stage I have it to at the moment..
https://youtu.be/clc3iIngH0w
Cheers: Brettski... :)
Really pleased to see the outcome at such a high standard. It looks GREAT. that's a lot of hours and dedication, that when completed, make the game more appealing to the owner. I love watching restoration work.
Well done - and what's next ?
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Getting closer to the final touches..
Here is a video of it at the stage I have it to at the moment..
https://youtu.be/clc3iIngH0w
Cheers: Brettski... :)
Really pleased to see the outcome at such a high standard. It looks GREAT. that's a lot of hours and dedication, that when completed, make the game more appealing to the owner. I love watching restoration work.
Well done - and what's next ?
Thanks Nino,
I really appreciate your comments and as you know I don't restore these to sell, I rebuild them to my expectations for my collection and usually spend more time and money on them than either what they are worth at current retail or what others might spend. If I were to sell them now I would possibly make back my spend but lose the hours, it's a hobby and keeps me at home and out of the pubs etc so family are cool with it and I really find it stress relieving and therapeutic in a way plus a lot of satisfaction knowing I did it all by myself with no outsourcing at all.
Wife just informs me I can no longer restore pinball machines in the living and dining rooms LOL so not having a shed it looks like my office will be converted into a workshop if I am to continue ;)
I really like system 1 Gottlieb's and Early SS Bally's from 77 to 79 and would also like to have a go at an EM as they were my favourites, I won a Gottlieb Jungle Princess in a Comp back in 79 and I would love to have it again in the collection, also looking for a Close Encounters and a Charlies Angels so I am on the lookout for the next one but will be very choosy which means it could take a while to source.
Still a few things to finish on Cleo so I will post more pics etc as I complete it.
Now to clean out the office ;)
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Jungle princess is a great Em was my first pin and is still in the collection.
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Thanks Daniel, the display arrived today and is plugged in and working great. Much appreciated mate! :)
Almost finished Cleo as I have said above but got a bit distracted which isn't really like me but this is why..
I bought this Kawasaki 900 Vulcan Classic with Vance & Hines custom pipes and passenger foot boards and sissy bar (this was a condition of purchase from the wife).
Only 11,000klms on the clock! & loving it! Looks like Pinball will be for rainy days at the moment. ;)
I really want to finalise Cleo though so it doesn't get forgotten and I just hate unfinished projects so I will get it all sorted over the next few weeks.
Cheers: Brettski... #*#
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Well I finally finished Cleopatra. What a mammoth task this was but totally enjoyed every minute, well maybe there were a few moments while re pinning connectors that had me questioning myself but over all very pleased. $#$
Thanks to everyone that contributed advice and encouragement, special thanks to Nino, DSB (Dan). ^^^
Here are a couple of pics from my phone but will get some DSLR shots soon.
Next Project!
Charlies Angels
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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Wow great work, Cleo looks fantastic! With the Sinbad as well and Charlies Angles up next that's one fine System 1 collection you have there.
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NIB well done
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Cleo looking nice!! System 1 games really are attractive.
When you get to the next one I have an old CA playfield with some bits still on it, sign out if anything needed, might be lucky.
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Thanks guys, much appreciated.
It seems I have started a system 1 collection, it was the era I remember and favour most as these were the machines I played as a teenager. Hanging out in the pinny parlour and getting excited as the new machines arrived. What an era, Angels, AC-DC, Cold Chisel and Pinball. :)
Cheers: Brettski... :)
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AWESOME restoration. Well done !
Looks "Nealy In Box" ! ^^^