The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: buzz66 on September 17, 2016, 09:45:33 PM
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Machine------White Water Williams 1993 S/N 4760
The Aim-----Rebuild to better than new condition.
Complete Strip. New Earth Braid ETC
Full Repaint and Decals
New Mirco Playfield Installation
3D Translite
New Speaker Panel
New Cabinet Side Trim, New Glass
All aftermarket Ramps
Color DMD
HIFI Sound Board
All New Boards except CPU, small cab boards Caps Change
LED Lights
Full Mechanical & Electrical rebuild. Various Decals.
Rechrome legs, Lock Down Bar, Side Rails, and Chrome back board hinge Bracket
Powder Coat Coin Door
Early Days. Playfield is out, The Back Box has been fully stripped out, sanded back to bare wood.
I saved the WPC fuse list and it will go back in exactly the same spot. The aim is to line up the existing staples.
Polished the Brackets and sprayed with clear to prevent oxidation. Back back still needs filling and Sanding.
I work 2 Weeks on and 2 Weeks off so the work will be sporadic.
I'm in no rush so when it;s done is when it's done.
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^^^
as you say mo rush, I am still working on a game I started in 2009?
This is a great game, good luck.
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Looking forward to seeing the progress pics ^^^
^^^ I am still working on a game I started in 2009?
Well that beats MY record by about a year :lol I havent touched my Pinball Pool resto project in about four years @.@
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It's not the most perfect piece of wood work or paint work, but it's still better than new so I'm happy with that.
I used Rust-Oleum Deep Gloss Blue and the same product in the Primer. Clear Acrylic White Knight
I still need to prep and clear the inside
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Wow 7 Years...I'm hoping for less than 6 Months.
I can see a few greasy finger prints on the Topper. It's just sitting ATM.
The Blue on the side art is near perfect match..The Cab Artwork has a much darker blue.
Haven't decided if the Cab is going to be black or Blue in color. I'm leaning towards Blue.
I was going to screen print the back Head Unit with the ugly "Caution Warning Label"
Stuff that I'm going to put the old Translite smack bang in it's place. Will look heaps better.
No more progress for 3 Weeks
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Clear Acrylic White Knight?? Is this to seal the wood? Like a gloss finish after painting?
If so, does this help with wear on the paint?
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Speaker Panel fully stripped down, Sanded and Display area sprayed with Matt Black. Rear of Panel Was sprayed with Acrylic to prevent any Hand marks on the Bare Chip Board. The new Plastic Speaker Facia was also replaced. The Translite is the new 3D version. A new Color DMD was also installed. Around $2,000 in parts went into the Head Alone, including new Driver Board. Lighting Panel Sanded with 600 and Sprayed with Gloss White
The back of the Lighting panel still needs a little sanding.
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Stripped out the Cabinet. Lots and lots of filling and sanding to do again. I swear I'm never going to do this level of restore again!!
I sanded back the front bottom of the Cabinet, just that bit took 2 hours..OMFG! The Floor is going to be sanding back to bare Wood and Sprayed with Clear. The rest including the Outside Bottom is going to be Gloss Blue. I have Art Work to go on the Inside as well.
The Structure of the Cab is excellent. The Bottom of the Cab has Marks and dings from Transport. All of which will be fixed.
The Lock Bar, Legs, Hinges, Side Rails, Power Supply are all going of to be Chromed very soon. Won't get any change out of a $1,000 for that alone. The Coin Door has been stripped down, and it will get Powder Coated Black.
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Well the wood and paint work are not perfect when it comes to the inside of the Cabinet. But still much better than new.
I guess that's not asking to much considering how rough they are preped and painted from the factory.
It's not original color (Black) but some things Williams didn't get right...Red Flipper Buttons are the factory color, you won't find too many machines where that hasn't been changed. I think the Blue looks better than the Black so there it is.
I spent considerable time getting the back, top & Vent holes looking smick on the Cab
The Electrics make up the difference. Just having a Squared up neat Ground braid makes a world of difference.
Paint still needs Polishing, need to wait for my next 2 weeks off for that.
The sides and front also require light sanding before the new decals go on.
No More progress for a couple of weeks. Next is sanding the Outside for Decal Install.
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More of the same
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Great work, it's coming up beautifully. ^^^
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Sorry "intopins" I missed your post, I'm no expert in painting but yes the Clear makes the paintwork shine and it does add a layer of protection.
I haven't applied clear to the sides or front. I
Thanks "Crash"....I'm glad to be finished with the wood and Paint, It's really not my thing. Overall I'm very happy with it. As long as I don't stuff up the Decal install I reckon it should look trick with all the Chrome Trim I have planned.
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Cabinet is now finished except for the Coin Door. The Powder Coater's have that.
The side rails also need to be Chromed. Can't afford that right now. But it won't hold me up.
The playfield will keep me busy.
I ended up with a small crease in the front artwork but I did manage to get the Start Button Spot on.
I put Velcro on the interior Cab Word Rails, for a bit of extra Bling!
Started with the Playfield. T Nuts are all in. Repainted the rear head Board Blue. I also noticed the Mine Kick out scoop has bad wear.
There goes another $130 AUD
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All the Mechanicals and reworked Lighting Boards are Done and Installed.
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New Subway Ramp installed and switch Loom
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SS Ramps came up nice. It took an hour just to do the very back ramp.
Painted the Back Board and outlane blue
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looking nice, are you going to get a missing plastic for the lhs?, a Canadian guy makes then Drano on Pinside
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Thanks Swinks,
Yes I will get that Plastic....I've put Frosted GI LEDS in the Lower playfield area...The GI lamps show through that Stainless Outlane and are very Bright. It's better with the frosted lamps compared to Incadecant Bulbs but still too bright.
I'll look him up on Pinside, Thanks again.
Still looking for a Boulder Garden sign...Mine has a small crack in it, but can't seem to find any.
I'm going to replace the Clear Topper Dome too....Now the game is almost finished the Topper looks like shit,even if the Plastic is only slightly yellowed, It's now the only thing that lets its down..
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here is a shortcut to his work
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-missing-plastic-coming-soon#post-284161
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Cheers Swinks,
Got the plastic ordered, also picked what looks like the last Clear Topper Dome Topper for sale on the Planet. Thanks Greg @ RTTB and Mark @ PSPA for Selling me his last Mirco WH20 Playfield set, making the machine all it can be.
Both Company's are great to deal with and I always try to support Aussie Pinball Parts suppliers where possible.
Just Chrome and Powder coating to go. Coin Door Switchs have already been overhauled, including new Decal
Machine Purchased 10 years Ago for $ 2,700 AUD
Spent $2,000 on it then
Spent $5,500 on it now.
A beat up WH20 currently fetches around $5,000.
Spend $5,500 on it and chuck in 200 hours of labor.
So it's owes me $10,500 and that's about what someone would pay for it, in the current market, and it would sell for that. That's going to change over the next 10 years.
Looks like I'll be keeping in for decades to come.
Can't see anyone forking out $14,500 for it, but I'm not letting it go as a parts only Machine and writing off 200 Hours plus of bloody hard work!
In the future a fully restored DMD game will rarely ever be seen for sale. Only beat up hacked machines will be available.
Prices for smick Games will only go higher and higher the longer time goes by.
Looked after this Bad Boy will still look like new in 15 years to come.