The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Slash on January 06, 2017, 12:51:26 PM
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Thought it was time I started working on my $400 Whirlwind project I picked up approx. 18 months ago.
So far I have stockpiled a new set of ramps, new set of plastics, new translight and I am on the list for a CPR Playfield (which according to CPR is at the CNC cutting stage - but who knows could be a year or more away before it's ready). I intend to pick up a new topper too at some point.
So given I am going the new playfield route and can't do anything on that until it's done, I figured I should get the cabinet ready in the meantime. I intend to buy cabinet decals, so will need to get the cabinet prepped.
Here is the cabinet currently
(http://i64.tinypic.com/i6bjfc.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/wkq0ia.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2rgfki9.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2eeebs9.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/wa6r82.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2ep7a5z.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2lma1ro.jpg)
I regrained the side rails before I took them off and they came up nicely so I should be able to resuse those no problems. But I had a couple of questions:
- I would appreciate recommendations on where to purchase the best quality decals from for the cabinet?
- Is there an easy way to get the Williams serial number sticker off the back of the cabinet? I was able to peel the one off inside the cabinet almost completely in one piece so I intend to put that back in once it's finished. It would be nice if I could get the back one off without too much hassle also? Unlike the one in the cabinet this one is stuck on firmly though?
- Is there a rattle can that matches that Williams blue nicely that I can use for the areas that don't have decals?
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Nice to see another resto
a pinsider J_M_ can print off new serial number decals - did a set for my creature, if not to different maybe he can help out.
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Awesome thanks for the tip I will look into that ^^^
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For the cab decals just buy the Next Gen II decal set from Mr Pinball. You can get a signwriter etc - but there's a whole lot of hassle doing it that way.
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Had a query about the prep for the decals. I have been sanding and filling the cabinet and backbox for what feels like an eternity. Finally got nice sharp corners & edges and everything else as smooth as I can get.
I have started with a primer on the backbox and sprayed that then sanded again lightly then sprayed more primer on again. Do I sand again lightly before putting on the main coat of blue paint?
Also given that the decals are going to go over the sides and front do I still spray that blue as well or just leave those areas with primer on? If I do spray them blue do you sand even that final coat lightly before applying the decals?
Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers
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I sand the primer very lightly with 400 or 600. I tend to leave anything just with primer that will be covered with decals as it is just wasting paint. I do the corners and edges in black so when you trim the decals back it is black and not grey primer.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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Thanks for the advice Rob, your cabinet restoration and decals come out great, so I will do as u suggest.
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Had a query about the prep for the decals. I have been sanding and filling the cabinet and backbox for what feels like an eternity. Finally got nice sharp corners & edges and everything else as smooth as I can get.
I have started with a primer on the backbox and sprayed that then sanded again lightly then sprayed more primer on again. Do I sand again lightly before putting on the main coat of blue paint?
Also given that the decals are going to go over the sides and front do I still spray that blue as well or just leave those areas with primer on? If I do spray them blue do you sand even that final coat lightly before applying the decals?
Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers
Since the inside of the cabinets need to be repainted, I would paint the cabinet the factory colour.
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I will be obviously be painting the inside too, but had a question. Do you tend to paint the whole inside of the cabinet (which wasn't how it was done in the factory), or just paint the inside walls with a bit of overspray going down towards the bottom of the cabinet?
Or does it tend vary depending on the condition of the cabinet? If it's pretty rough/dirty and dinged up needing repairs on the bottom or lower inside walls then I imagine this would push you towards completely painting the inside the factory colour?
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Everyone will have different opinions on this - i tend not to get too excited about keeping things 'original' - at the end of the day, the minute you put in LEDs, new decals or anything custom (even if it improves gameplay or protects things) it is no longer original.
My personal opinion is the neatest look is black (or colour on some machines) inside the cab sides, down to natural timber for the base. However sometimes i paint the base black - in my latest Monster Bash, it was because i had the thought of installing the cab decals on the inside (see restoration thread for pics) and thought it would contrast nicely. Other times i have simply been too lazy and not masked it up!
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Well after endless sanding and filling, sanding and filling then priming and sanding etc, I am ready to paint the cabinet blue
My decals have also just arrived so I was intending to get the paint colour matched to those. Can anyone advise on the best type of paint. Do I get a water based enamel?
I was also thinking given I have gone decals (yeah I know the art was originally silk screened ono the cabinet but I don't think it was salvageable given the condition of the cabinet and artwork). So I was thinking I should get a high gloss finish on it since the decals are obviously "shiny".
Thoughts?
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I have always been told satin acrylic? Haven't done my GI yet, but will watch your cab restore and see what you do.
Good luck Dude.
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Started to paint the cabinet finally!!!
Decided to completely do the inside as well. Here are some early pics, I've still got to give it a second coat on the inside. Figured I would start in there since it's hidden and I can perfect my technique a bit, before moving to areas that are more visible. It was quite late in the afternoon when I took those pics so it looks a bit darker than it is in person.
I've also taken a pic of one of the decals. I ended up buying them from Retro Refurbs in the UK. I believe they acquired the design files from the original artist for them.
(https://thumb.ibb.co/hES2av/IMG_2772.jpg)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/gWduNa/IMG_2773.jpg)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/doZqvv/IMG_2774.jpg)
(http://<a href="https://ibb.co/hES2av"><img src="https://thumb.ibb.co/hES2av/IMG_2772.jpg" alt="IMG_2772" border="0"></a>)
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On a completely unrelated note, I managed to cross off a Bucket List item a few months ago when I finally met this guitar legend!!
(https://thumb.ibb.co/gpCoha/IMG_2288.jpg)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/e7QKoF/IMG_2289_2.jpg)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/k2RENa/IMG_2293_2.jpg)
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These also arrived today
(https://preview.ibb.co/koGRna/IMG_2776.jpg)
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great to meet the legend
When your finished your resto all the hard work Sanding and cleaning will of been worth it
Ian
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Thought it was time for an update. I finally got my decals on a couple of weeks ago.
I decided to paint the whole cab blue before putting them on. I know I could have just done primer and then sanded and just painted it blue near the edges where the decal would be trimmed, but I thought an extra coat of paint and then further sanding would help to fill in any further spots I might have missed (despite hours and hours of sanding and filling).
Yes I also painted the inside of the cabinet entirely. I know it's not to everyones liking but the bottom was quite stained and ugly even after attempted cleaning, so I decided to paint the whole ting.
Im very happy with the Retro Refurbs decals. Although they were damaged in shipping as you can see in a couple of pics, they were creased from the postage cylinder being crushed. But some heat from hair drying as I applied them (I applied them using the wet method), and the wrinkles disappeared as you can see from the pics of the same area.
I still have to cut out the bolt holes etc but I am tidying up the cabinet hardware in the meantime so they will get done when it's time to start putting things back in. You can notice a bulge in one pics of the backbox, but that's simply from where there is a bolt hole behind it waiting to be cut (its not an air bubble).
I ended up using a satin finish with the paint and I am quite happy with it. I also don't believe I got any air bubbles. All the hours of prep work paid off!!
I also paid for my new CPR playfield earlier in the week $#$
(https://preview.ibb.co/nA1N6a/IMG_2795.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/f4pgzv/IMG_2799.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mevAsF/IMG_2800.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/bSJPKv/IMG_2801.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cob0sF/IMG_2911.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/bBi26a/IMG_2914.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gE26XF/IMG_2915.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jL9mXF/IMG_2916.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fcH4ma/IMG_2909.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mx46zv/IMG_2907.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kA5eKv/IMG_2956.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ngHtev/IMG_2957.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/c53Gzv/IMG_2958.jpg)
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That cab has come up SWEET... great job ^^^ ^^^
I made my own serial decals when i restored F-14 and Fish Tales from scans of the originals.
Also have to say, the cabs do look much nicer painted inside. The main reason i don't do it (apart from originality) is the extra work and expense involved (its hard enough getting $$ outta some people as it is) !!
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^ I had enough paint so figured I would give it a go. But it certainly used up a lot of paint!
Had to tidy up the coin door too as it was looking pretty terrible. It also had an ugly plate riveted over one of the coin slots. So I ripped that off then used some JB Weld that I had to fill in the hole. Then sanded it back.
I used a Bryan Kelly youtube vid I saw of how to do the speckling effect, which I think came out ok. I painted it in Matt/Flat Black and then did the speckling with gloss black.
(https://preview.ibb.co/c59YxF/IMG_2955.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mEh3xF/IMG_2951.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/m2R7Pv/IMG_2952.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mVSgjv/IMG_2953.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/crH8Wa/IMG_2954.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gCnmHF/IMG_2975.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hwTFBa/IMG_2979.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mpGMHF/IMG_2980.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gUFyxF/IMG_2981.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kX0FcF/IMG_2982.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kRWXPv/IMG_2983.jpg)
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Great work on the door, it's coming up really nice. It's probably the part of the machine I look forward to doing the least when I restore a game but always worth the effort.
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Finally getting off my butt to start the playfield swap for this game, I've been sidetracked for long enough. I bought a rotisserie a few months ago.
I now need to order new t-nuts but have no idea what size. Can anyone tell me what size t-nut was used for System 11 games? I have no idea what to buy and can't see the item listed in the manual either.
There are 6-32, 8-32 or 10-32 available from what I can see.
I had a feeling they were 8-32 from my research but would really like to confirm it.
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Buy both 6/32 and 8/32. Rarely will you use 10/32 on any playfields. MOST of the time the only place 6/32 t-nuts are used are on the return lanes but some games use them elsewhere for game specific assemblies. Hope this helps
Tim
HRP
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Also, being system 11 some hardware is actually loctited to the t-nuts. If you want to save your fasteners you will need to free the loctite up by using a pretty decent soldering iron with a flat tip. Apply the heat/tip to the t-nut and once hot enough you will be able to unscrew the fasteners without breaking the end of the thread off inside the t-nut.
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Cheers for the advice, I’ll get some of both.
Gotta admit I’m apprehensive about this swap as the playfield is not dimpled so just another area for a first time playfield swap noob to screw up. ^&^
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So I ordered some t-nuts (2 different sizes) as per my posts above but the base of them is smaller than the current ones on the playfield. I believe the holes are the correct size but the bases are just smaller. I'm guessing this doesn't really matter??
These are the new ones I bought I don't have a pic handy to compare to the current ones but the radius of the base would be a couple of mm's more than these ones.
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e1ac3fac0940277096a9.jpg)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/de09106b61b38a0cc3af.jpg)
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Got a problem with the lockdown bar and coin door. Im sure I've had a blonde moment or something but can't bloody work out what it is. I went to put the glass on then lockdown bar but can't close the coin door as one of the coin chutes hit the armature for the lockdown bar. When there is no lockdown bar in the slots, the armature sits at a 45 degree angle and you can close the door. But once you put the lockdown bar in it sits straight down and hits the coin chute preventing it from closing.
Any suggestions?
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ab408bfa2f3793b5ac52.jpg)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c37be07806825afedadb.jpg)
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But once you put the lockdown bar in it sits straight down and hits the coin chute preventing it from closing.
This isn't right, sounds like the lock down bar is not fully latching when engaged.
I had this when I did my Dr Dude and it definitely wasn't finding the " home " location.
Took some tweaking of the whole locking mechanism by undoing the fixing screws to cabinet and either raising or lowering if you can and adjusting the top brass screws.
Not fun, but then it just seemed to work.
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The two brass screws are for the adjustment of the LDB and LDB receiver. Loosen them slightly until the LDB is in its correct position.
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Long time since any action on this but I am finally moving again - since the cabinet is done I just have to do the playfield swap - my first ever :D
Got a CPR playfield that came without dimples - awesome!! Apparently there was a stuff up with their CNC machine or something and most if not all the WW's weren't dimpled. Oh well I have my old playfield to work off as a template and so I traced it area by area, then have been looking at that combined with the actual mech's and plastics and posts to see exactly where is best to drill the holes.
BUT I just ran into a problem, one of the posts decided to snap off, leaving the bottom of the screw in the hole - Motherf*$@er!!! The post doesn't go all the way through so there is no way to grab it from the underside. The area where it occurred is a spot where the ball can't get to and it's also hidden by plastics. However, I need to put a new post in there as the plastics above it need to be supported and screwed to it. Any suggestions on now to get it out? Ive already munted the area a bit trying to grip it and yank it out.
(https://i.ibb.co/TL6WnrP/424812-ED-021-E-44-A9-9-D57-773-C9-A1-BDC0-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4dz1DJ4)
(https://i.ibb.co/N9dCZ2G/3-FC7-D1-CB-55-EC-4236-AF22-3368922-C9-AAC.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Cb38hKS)
(https://i.ibb.co/Vg2QbsC/97-F6-D220-CB25-4-AA7-BCED-694-BCB1-ACB54.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dPGLXRp)
(https://i.ibb.co/R2sq0gs/A89-D31-E1-8-E3-C-44-B2-ADC1-4311-CD2-D1729.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XXKqsWK)
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You could try a small screw extractor but it’ll be a delicate operation to drill a small pilot hole in the top of the snapped off post first. I’d first drill a hole the same size as the thread you need to remove through a bit of flat steel (Maybe 2mm thick) and place that on the playfield over the thread so that when you’re drilling you can’t slip and drill the wood. Slow and careful does it.
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Something like this
https://www.bunnings.com.au/sutton-tools-no1-easy-out-extractor-screw-set_p6360087
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Thanks for the reply, went and bought that exact extraction screw kit in the link, it was the smallest one. Unfortunately even they proved too difficult to get into the back of the broken screw and drill a hole for the extraction tool. It kept slipping off and consequently making the hole bigger/wider around the broken screw.
I think I am going to simply have to drill a new hole right next to it for another post. As I havent finished all the other post holes for that plastic - just two, I might still be able to make it work. I have done a test fit and it looks possible.
I might also make sure I make the predrilled pilot holes a little wider to make sure I don’t snap any more. I was going to buy brand new posts but noted these ones are about $5 each and I need 15. Ouch! ^&^ &^&
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Encountered another bizzare problem, see if you can tell from these photos?
WTF? This isn't right is it?
(https://i.ibb.co/k9nXz3n/903726-EC-0-F31-45-E1-AED4-0-B7-A620569-B0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GtwRGsw)
(https://i.ibb.co/LzQX0DX/B533-B211-575-E-4073-B7-B0-2-C720-D8-D7295.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1fst0Yt)
(https://i.ibb.co/0YrjLS7/C1-B8615-E-12-D8-42-DC-B6-E3-4-CFB484-AD1-BC.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qmpM8fS)
(https://i.ibb.co/5RrYHqB/FE1-CA0-A5-3642-4-F7-B-9494-870-C72-A574-A5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pLfWFCJ)
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I’m not really that familiar with this title but certainly doesn’t look right. Has it been broken and riveted back on the wrong way at some stage?
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Yeah that's what I assume has occurred. If you look at the ball trail on the third photo it leads right up to the screw, so I assume a kickout back up that lane will have the ball hitting that post/screw every time. It should have been riveted on the other side.
In order to fix that I assume I have to drill the rivet off? Any suggestions on what sort of rivets to buy to refix it. I also need to rivet a few of the new plastics too.
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These are the rivets you need towards the bottom of the page on this link.
https://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html
Ideally you’d have a rivet press too but there are other ways to fix them. There’s lots of different length rivets but you only really want the rivet to be just a little longer than the objects they pass through plus the washer on the other side.
Go gently riveting plastics too because it’s easy to go to hard and pull the rivet through the plastic.
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pm sent
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Bit of an update. I have done as much as I wanted to do on the topside for now and intend to leave the rest until after I finish the underside which I have also made a start on. Got delayed a bit when I realised I hadn't broken down the 3 bank and single drop targets and cleaned them all up. That's all done now but I also noticed in the process that one of the opto boards was a bit munted, the connector pins were bent and broken and wires were solded directly to the board. So I bought a new board. The only thing is I am not sure what size trifurcon connectors to get for it, I think there are 0.100 but I'm not exactly sure - any thoughts from the pic? I actually thought I had some in my stash but don't so I will need to order a couple.
GAP (Graeme) very kindly did all the riveting of the plastics for me plus riveted a number of pieces onto the new ramps too!!! Did a fantastic job. Even better was I got to play some of his awesome pin collection afterwards! I particularly liked the new Elvira game plus it was good to see the Whoah Nellie too - I hadn't seen or played one before. I would love to be locked down in his house for 2 weeks for the CoronaVirus, I wouldn't get board with all his great games!!
I also noticed when cleaning the cellar scoops that it appears one of the welds on one of them broke. I don't know if it happened before or possibly somehow when it was in the tumbler. Either way I am guessing I am going to have to try and get that rewelded somehow?
I also annoyingly noticed I forgot to get the diverter for the ramp riveted. I hadn't noticed it previously as I believe mine was actually screwed on but I have a feeling it should be riveted. I'm not sure it it would effect gameplay it it's only screwed on.
Current status:
(https://i.ibb.co/6yhBzwj/E24-C3-D34-CF3-A-41-D3-A7-F2-28-DC85-EF3705.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yNTStPH)
(https://i.ibb.co/cQQK8n4/5-E424626-B8-B2-4868-A086-2057-C822-A31-F.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Yhh4dsH)
Not sure what size trifurcon female connectors to get to crimp these so they will fit this connector:
(https://i.ibb.co/fxCR5LL/78-A8-E0-F1-761-A-4-CC4-8083-56-BD345-A49-E8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bKrhZDD)
The weld on this scoop is broken. I'm guessing it needs to be fixed otherwise it could be flinging the ball out anywhere:
(https://i.ibb.co/DK20wXD/A5-E2-C03-F-5146-40-B5-8613-E7-ADA8655501.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0JbHYNj)
Forgot to get this riveted. Anybody that has the game know if I screw this on will it interfere with the roll/flow of the ball, it's the diverter on the ramp:
(https://i.ibb.co/8cPqdGg/872-DBCAC-2382-4-E78-971-F-0816421-BE947.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bJNT2Y5)
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Mine is riveted.
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Looking great! If you were happy to post the scoop we could do the TIG weld repair for you, and if you would like the diverter riveted correctly that’s fine as well.
Tim Reid
HRP
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Thanks again for your offer Tim it's really appreciated. I have to say offers of help like Tim's and Graeme's plus other ones I have had from members of this forum in the past really is awesome. Its a great community.
Does anyone know what size trifurcon female crimp terminal to get to fit the connectors on that board? My understanding is it's 0.100. Would these ones work, they are the only ones with a minimum wire size of 0.100:
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-connector-contacts/8215449/ (https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-connector-contacts/8215449/)
I gotta confess I am pretty ignorant on this whole aspect. Whilst I have completely repinned every connector in a Gottlieb System 1 game before, I'm still a bit naive on the technical side of it.
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Great Job on the Whirlwind. looking forward to following this as i have a whirlwind i am in the process of restoring.
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Lucky me, i bought mine already done. And the hurricane and Comet too!
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Small update and a question.
(https://i.ibb.co/PGXZp0f/IMG-5028.jpg)
Just the ramp lift mechanism and cellar scoops to attach and I can reattach the wiring harness and the bottom should be done. The wiring harness will test me to see how good my photos are when reconnecting everything!!! I also made the decision to replace all the lamp holders with new ones. I was originally going to go with the old ones then decided I was being slack and should change them also. I have to admit they look a lot better than the old ones for the small $$'s involved. I also put LED's in.
My progress got delayed as half my ramp lift mechanism was missing from my game when I got it. So I had to order a number of parts from Marco's and it arrived in Oz on the 18 April then sat in Sydney until this week when it was delivered. This leads me to my question since I don't have reference photos to go off as the part was missing. Where does the residual armature tab get attached? My understanding is it gets shipped flat as per the photo and then I bend the two end tabs. My question is does it go in between the coil and the metal tab (first pic) or does it go on the other side (second pic). My guess is it should go between the coil and metal tab? The pic in the manual does show that residual tab placement.
(https://i.ibb.co/WnPBTYj/IMG-5027.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/wdhmTXh/IMG-5026.jpg)
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That part is not on the Whirlwind I have. I don't remember it being in any Whirlwinds I've done ?
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It goes between the coil and the metal tab mate. I can post a photo of how it looks if you like?
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If you could post a pic that would be great thank you. The explosion diagram in the manual is a bit cryptic on that part yet it was in the kit when I bought it.
I was also looking at other pics I could find online, am I supposed to bend down the piece I have circled in the photo below, I've seen pics of it bent/folded down onto the plate? The manual also seems to imply it should be bent down and the pic on Marco's website has it bent too? It looks like a decent piece of metal to have to bend though?
(https://i.ibb.co/s55SjYX/IMG-5026.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/GRmSPRD/Screen-Shot-2020-05-10-at-9-17-26-am.png)
(https://i.ibb.co/Kb9LNvY/IMG-5055.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/Fqh9Nw9/IMG-5056.jpg)
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It's finally looking like a pinny again!!!
Pretty much finished the back except for one or two small things I will tidy once it's in the cabinet. Also finished the topside, just waiting on a post and hex spacer from Marco's plus a few other small bits and pieces that I'm not even sure I need anymore. The order was paid for in April and started tracking across the US then stopped in one location and hasn't moved since April 21st - arrrrggghhhh!!
I will FINALLY (I picked up this game back in Jan 2017) put it back in the cabinet next weekend and see if it works haha. Then the real work begins.
Big thank you to Tim from Hot Rodded Pins for generously welding one of the cellar scoops for me plus also riveting the diverter too. He then refused to accept $$'s for even the postage back to me!!! I really appreciated your help thank you!
Between Tim and one of the local pinheads Graeme (who riveted a tonne of things previously), this hobby really has some great helpful people.
(https://i.ibb.co/YDBFfs8/IMG-5543.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/LxMdrvm/IMG-5548.jpg)
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It's back in and amazingly switched on and lit up first go. Although some problems since which I'll get to.
It was my first cabinet decal and playfield swap so I'm quite pleased to get that completed without too many screw ups. I double checked and I actually first got this game in around July of 2015. Ive been sitting on it and hatching it for bloody 5 years!
I managed to scrape the side of the cabinet getting the playfield back in so will need to touch that up, but would really like some side blades/art for this so may not bother.
Ok now to the bit that starts to get out of my expertise. When I first turned the game on there were lights and sounds etc, so a good start. There was a couple of things immediately that needed attention like a switch stuck on and the upper right flipper not working. Had the game on and off a number of times, I fixed the switch then started going through the menu to try and start testing everything.
First problem is the menu is in German. I thought there might be a language setting but can't seem to find it, plus research seems to suggest I need to get a different ROM to get English. Is that right and if so where is the quickest place to buy ROM's for this? Also are the ROM's socketed or am I going to have to bloody desolder it like I did for the Nvram?
Next problem after fumbling through the menus and going through some coil testing etc, I turned the game off, came back turned it on, it briefly lit up then then went dead. Found that the 4AMP fuse in the main high voltage box in the cabinet had blown. Put another one in and turned it on - blown again. Any suggestions on where to start to track this down?
(https://i.ibb.co/TLFHwzR/IMG-5569.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/NFXCVXH/IMG-5577.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/qDW2TXg/IMG-5576.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/dpChZ2N/IMG-5581.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/5rNRSF6/IMG-5583.jpg)
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Looks good. Im pretty sure system 11 language is changed with Eproms these will be socketed so no desoldering required, I should have the files if I do I can burn you replacements
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Hi that would be a great help thank you!!! Just let me know if you locate them and I can sort you out for them.
Is there any easy to know if I have the most up to date ROM's in the game? I think the sound and speech versions are but there are no stickers on the Game ROMS so I can't tell if they are.
(https://i.ibb.co/vzkDyH9/IMG-5600.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/drFKH71/IMG-5598.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/sW3bQqg/IMG-5599.jpg)
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Got a set of side blades sitting here from Pingraffix for my Whirlwind. Getting the courage up to have a go at installing them one day.
Your machine's looking great.
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Nice job. Whirlwind looks awesome when restored. Do you still have the mains fuse blowing on switch on ? Can you double check the fuse is correct for the game, and of course sloblo. If it is continually blowing, it might be a short across the EMF.
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Thanks Nino, it's no longer blowing. I did find a couple of fuses on the interconnect board which I had already replaced that had blown which might have been the cause. In addition the connector at J6 for the GI looks toasty.
I still have quite a few gremlins I am going to have to sort out, such as upper right flipper not working, flashers not working, fan possibly not working and who knows what else, just difficult to test properly until I can sort the language issue out, but I can start a game which is something.
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Hopefully get your Roms in the post tomorrow
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Hopefully get your Roms in the post tomorrow
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That’s awesome thankyou very much!! Please send me your PayPal address too!!!
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Nah
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