The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Technical Matters => Circuit Board Repair Guides => Topic started by: Strangeways on October 17, 2008, 06:08:42 PM
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Here's something a little different. I'm going to start logging repairs on various boards I have lying around that need repairs. I'm mainly going to focus on games and boards I have a lot of experience with, and some repair techniques that I've used over the years.
Solenoid Driver (Bally / Stern 1977 - 1981)
This board is typical of the boards that have never been repaired or reconditioned. This is a very important component of the Pinballs of this era and if they are not attended to, they can damage OTHER components of your game - particularly displays.
The problems with this board are not visibly noticeable, and you probably would not know there is a problem until you tested it. I plays fine in my Paragon... But there are several issues with this board....
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/misc/Picture%20568.jpg)
Look at the large silver capacitor.. That's a factory cap that was designed for 10 years operation.
Look at the large blue capacitor.. again ..That's a factory cap that was designed for 10 years operation, and it is leaking !
Measure TP2 and TP4 to ground... Hmmm.. Both over 200 VDC. This is a HUUUGE problem...The HV to the displays is no longer regulating, and I cannot adjust the pot to lower the voltage to 175 - 185 VDC...
But The boards works ???
It is actually DAMAGING the displays, and if you had an Altec MPU board in the game... That could be nasty...
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So what do you do next on this board? Just replace the caps? Very interested to see what you do here.
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Here is what I would do - replace both Caps, rebuild the HV section, create a stronger ground for both caps, tie TP1 with TP3, replace j3 header pins and make a nice new plastic HV section cover. Can't see the back but I would check for burning on the flipper relay tracks and put in additional jumpers if they look toasty, as well as tidying up any previous hacks. Lets see how close I am!
cheers
Ian
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Where do you guys learn all this stuff? I'm amazed. Does Clay's guide have all this stuff?
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funny spotting this thread. i have just finished soldering today on the HV section of a -22 SDB board for an EBD. TP2 and TP4 were both testing at 240+ and as per clays guide - > rebuild time. Note that C23 is for the 5v section. I washed down the board with a 50/50 vinegar/water solution and fired up the desolderer. I used a bigdaddy enterprises kit. still got to do the regulator as i got interupted and then need to buzz out to make sure connections are good (couple of traces are jumpered). Ed at GPE also sells a HV kit. I also replaced a couple of the TIP102's. Query - I used diode MM test on the TIPS and when in circuit they test 45/49 - is this about right?? out of circuit is closer to 45/60 (grounding centre pin). will test the board in machi9ne tommorrow.
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Here is what I would do - replace both Caps, rebuild the HV section, create a stronger ground for both caps, tie TP1 with TP3, replace j3 header pins and make a nice new plastic HV section cover. Can't see the back but I would check for burning on the flipper relay tracks and put in additional jumpers if they look toasty, as well as tidying up any previous hacks. Lets see how close I am!
cheers
Ian
Well done Ian #*#
There are a few extra steps that I do - I made my own HV rebuild kit - an addition to Ed's HV rebuild kit..
I'll document the process as I go along..I'm glad to see that there is an interest in board repairs and upgrades
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Where do you guys learn all this stuff? I'm amazed. Does Clay's guide have all this stuff?
Yes - Clay documents troubleshooting this board and the mandatory upgrades.. Clay has been an inspiration to pinheads like myself to get involved with these repairs.
I have been doing board repairs for many years now, and it is not as difficult as it looks. I do have an Electronics background, so it does make it easier.
I guess it would be the responsible thing to alert pinheads that the repair knowledge I want to share is based on experience. I have made many mistakes and that's the best way to learn. Electronics and Electricity are not forgiving, so take care if you want to try this yourself.
^^^
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Where do you guys learn all this stuff? I'm amazed. Does Clay's guide have all this stuff?
Yes - Clay documents troubleshooting this board and the mandatory upgrades.. Clay has been an inspiration to pinheads like myself to get involved with these repairs.
I have been doing board repairs for many years now, and it is not as difficult as it looks. I do have an Electronics background, so it does make it easier.
I guess it would be the responsible thing to alert pinheads that the repair knowledge I want to share is based on experience. I have made many mistakes and that's the best way to learn. Electronics and Electricity are not forgiving, so take care if you want to try this yourself.
^^^
Right on. Clay's guides mean that if you have fair to good electronic skills you can use the guide to make a lot of board repairs yourself. Without the guide I would be struggling...
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I also replaced a couple of the TIP102's. Query - I used diode MM test on the TIPS and when in circuit they test 45/49 - is this about right?? out of circuit is closer to 45/60 (grounding centre pin). will test the board in machi9ne tommorrow.
I don't have a huge success rate testing with a meter, and often rely on the 'in machine' test. If it works in the machine I would not worry about it. Keep in mind that it is not always the TIP that plays up, and the CA3081 (transistor pack) can also go open and cause a coil to lock on. If you have a problem (coil locked on or won't fire) check the schematics and then test ALL the components that fire that coil.
cheers
Ian
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Seeing as you have started this thread Nino, I will chime in (in new threads) with the various faults and solutions I have had over the years with different pinball circuit boards.
This will be a great resource for anyone who has soldering skills to do this sort of work...
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righto then. at the risk of being pushy I do have the board out at the moment (first time I've done one of these boards which is why I'm asking). i have rebuilt ALL of the HV components, looks like one of the 1/2 watt resistors cooked a while back (before the replaced upgrade). i'll do the ground upgrades on the 2 big caps and tie TP1 and TP3. i will do the headers and connectors, I am upgrading C23 to 15K mf (EBD has 3 flippers). I have a replacement flipper relay but wasn't going to replace it because the other one is working fine (should I ?) - are these a common cause of failure? appreciate your comments guys if there is anything else you recommend! cheers s
to any noobs reading this thread, have a go!, it's pretty satisfying to be able to fix your game from top to bottom. if you haven't done much/any soldering do an online tutorial and maybe practice on a cheap jaycar kit or something before tackling a pin board. the one main thing i have learned is you should spend more care and time on component removal than component addition. Those traces are hard to repair if you carelessly break them removing components (get a good pair of tiny sidecutters and take no risks 'pulling' components - cut them off!). also 'test' your work with a MM before connecting the power! test for shorts if it looks like a couple of joints may be too close and make sure your connections are tight.
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Reading this thread with a system 11 power board in front of me, another coincidence. +100v is ok -100v reads -130v and is like nino mentioned, affecting the display. Just began testing last night. Havent played much with sys 11's but learning my way around quick. Anyone point the finger at the above culprit before I test all components? Thinking it may be a cap.
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Where do you guys learn all this stuff? I'm amazed. Does Clay's guide have all this stuff?
Yes - Clay documents troubleshooting this board and the mandatory upgrades.. Clay has been an inspiration to pinheads like myself to get involved with these repairs.
I have been doing board repairs for many years now, and it is not as difficult as it looks. I do have an Electronics background, so it does make it easier.
I guess it would be the responsible thing to alert pinheads that the repair knowledge I want to share is based on experience. I have made many mistakes and that's the best way to learn. Electronics and Electricity are not forgiving, so take care if you want to try this yourself.
^^^
Good Advice. ^^^ Im glad to see this kind of advice, especially regarding high voltages. Im an electronics tech by trade and work with dangerous voltages every day of my life.. plasma tv's, microwave ovens etc, and im all to familiar with how dangerous electricity can be through bitter experience. Ten years ago I ended up in hospital once with burns all over my right hand and will have the scars for the rest of my life.. due to being careless and complacant. But i was VERY lucky.. the path of the electricity went in and came out thru ny right hand, had it exited thru my left hand i would not be writing this now... So please be careful.. id hate to read on here about someone having any kind of accident while working on one of their beloved games
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righto then. at the risk of being pushy I do have the board out at the moment (first time I've done one of these boards which is why I'm asking). i have rebuilt ALL of the HV components, looks like one of the 1/2 watt resistors cooked a while back (before the replaced upgrade). i'll do the ground upgrades on the 2 big caps and tie TP1 and TP3. i will do the headers and connectors, I am upgrading C23 to 15K mf (EBD has 3 flippers). I have a replacement flipper relay but wasn't going to replace it because the other one is working fine (should I ?) - are these a common cause of failure? appreciate your comments guys if there is anything else you recommend! cheers s
to any noobs reading this thread, have a go!, it's pretty satisfying to be able to fix your game from top to bottom. if you haven't done much/any soldering do an online tutorial and maybe practice on a cheap jaycar kit or something before tackling a pin board. the one main thing i have learned is you should spend more care and time on component removal than component addition. Those traces are hard to repair if you carelessly break them removing components (get a good pair of tiny sidecutters and take no risks 'pulling' components - cut them off!). also 'test' your work with a MM before connecting the power! test for shorts if it looks like a couple of joints may be too close and make sure your connections are tight.
You should be right Stu. The best way to check a TIP102 is to set the MM to "continuity" and then check for any shorts. Testing them this way is the easiest, and when you switch the game on, you won't have any locked on coils caused by the transistors. Measuring resistance to ground will give you different readings as you are measuring the "circuit", not the component. There are other components influencing the reading as the other components can have a 10% tolerance - like resistors for example..
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Seeing as you have started this thread Nino, I will chime in (in new threads) with the various faults and solutions I have had over the years with different pinball circuit boards.
This will be a great resource for anyone who has soldering skills to do this sort of work...
I was hoping you would do that, Owen ^^^
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Reading this thread with a system 11 power board in front of me, another coincidence. +100v is ok -100v reads -130v and is like nino mentioned, affecting the display. Just began testing last night. Havent played much with sys 11's but learning my way around quick. Anyone point the finger at the above culprit before I test all components? Thinking it may be a cap.
I had a similar issue on a my JP (Data East) ... Similar setup.
There are a couple of things to check - R1 and R4 should be 39K. Measure them as a starting point.
There are two zener diodes (ZR2 & ZR4) that drop the voltage to -100V and +100V. They are 1N4764A from memory..You can use another diode 1N4763A to drop the voltage to -91V and +91V - this prolongs the life of the display.
That's where I would start.. From a hobbyist's point of view, I just rebuild these HV sections as a general rule.
Would need a second opinion - as I have not worked on a system 11 for YEARS
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Reading this thread with a system 11 power board in front of me, another coincidence. +100v is ok -100v reads -130v and is like nino mentioned, affecting the display. Just began testing last night. Havent played much with sys 11's but learning my way around quick. Anyone point the finger at the above culprit before I test all components? Thinking it may be a cap.
I had a similar issue on a my JP (Data East) ... Similar setup.
There are a couple of things to check - R1 and R4 should be 39K. Measure them as a starting point.
There are two zener diodes (ZR2 & ZR4) that drop the voltage to -100V and +100V. They are 1N4764A from memory..You can use another diode 1N4763A to drop the voltage to -91V and +91V - this prolongs the life of the display.
That's where I would start.. From a hobbyist's point of view, I just rebuild these HV sections as a general rule.
Would need a second opinion - as I have not worked on a system 11 for YEARS
Thanks Nino,have tested diodes/resistors last night.....all appear good. Wanted to get this one moving without doing a full rebuild but looks like I will have to. Where do you get your source your power rebuild parts?
I have had some great faults that took a while to nut out, I agree that we should document them on this forum and share our tips/experiences with each other.
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have had some great faults that took a while to nut out, I agree that we should document them on this forum and share our tips/experiences with each other.
Couldnt agree more..... This is a great thread to have.
Clays tips are great but are not the be all and end all to fixing your game. I take what i can from Clays, but use a lot of my own methods also. for example, i still dont quite get how he tests the transistors, i prefer to do a resistance test either way through the legs - i understand that.
looking forward to seeing this thread progress, this is just the kind of stuff that will determine this forum...
Awesome
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Dave - Shoot Greg a PM / email - He might have a rebuild kit..
Otherwise ;
http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=45
If you are not in a rush, I might be making an order soon - I can grab one then for you ?
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It is actually DAMAGING the displays, and if you had an Altec MPU board in the game... That could be nasty...
Just a quick point about the Alltek (yes, Nino misspelled it :lol) MPU board: It has a voltage clamp built into the board, so that if the power supply has a problem in the +5 Volt section, the board will be protected, and not boot up.
You will see a Red LED and a Green LED on the lower left hand side of the board - the Green LED means that voltage is OK, and the Red LED means over or under voltage.
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Clays tips are great but are not the be all and end all to fixing your game. I take what i can from Clays, but use a lot of my own methods also. for example, i still dont quite get how he tests the transistors, i prefer to do a resistance test either way through the legs - i understand that.
Yes Gavin, I've found many "holes" in Clays documents also, but it is a great starting point and resource for anyone beginning or doing regular pinball repairs (mainly circuit board repairs). I find it very helpful, as I don't have to remember the things I worked out years ago, or remember what Clay has already written down that I hadn't worked out yet. I was working on pinball boards for about 4 years before I even knew Clays guide existed!
One thing my electronics teachers taught me when I was studying at TAFE for the Diploma of Engineering (Electronics) - It's not as important to remember everything you learn here, but it is important to remember where/how to find the information you currently need. I have no problem telling people I use Clay's guides, as he has written it down, and I know where to look for the info I need at any given time (if I know it is already there).
What I have worked out over the years is in a note book that I can look up when needed. That way when I have a few too many to drink on a weekend and loose the brain cells that had that information I don't have to worry... I've already written it down! :lol
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Reading this thread with a system 11 power board in front of me, another coincidence. +100v is ok -100v reads -130v and is like nino mentioned, affecting the display. Just began testing last night. Havent played much with sys 11's but learning my way around quick. Anyone point the finger at the above culprit before I test all components? Thinking it may be a cap.
I had a similar issue on a my JP (Data East) ... Similar setup.
There are a couple of things to check - R1 and R4 should be 39K. Measure them as a starting point.
There are two zener diodes (ZR2 & ZR4) that drop the voltage to -100V and +100V. They are 1N4764A from memory..You can use another diode 1N4763A to drop the voltage to -91V and +91V - this prolongs the life of the display.
That's where I would start.. From a hobbyist's point of view, I just rebuild these HV sections as a general rule.
Would need a second opinion - as I have not worked on a system 11 for YEARS
I would just rebuild any High Voltage power section as a rule of thumb... Years ago I used to just replace the faulty part, only to find that something else would fail within a few weeks.
So, in the High Voltage section of any pinball board, I replace all active components - Transistors, Diodes, Zener Diodes and Bridge Rectifiers - and also the capacitors (capacitors dry out, and then cause their own problems). It's always a good idea to check the resistors and make sure they are in spec - many resistors have a 10% tolerance, so if they are out of this range, replace them. For some resitors it is a good idea to use "Flameproof" resistors... these are usually a "Metal Film" type, but are specifically designed to be flameproof. I have seen a few catch fire!
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You should be right Stu. The best way to check a TIP102 is to set the MM to "continuity" and then check for any shorts. Testing them this way is the easiest, and when you switch the game on, you won't have any locked on coils caused by the transistors. Measuring resistance to ground will give you different readings as you are measuring the "circuit", not the component. There are other components influencing the reading as the other components can have a 10% tolerance - like resistors for example..
cheers mate. one question re the HV section - the trimmer pot ? - do you use it? what do you trim voltages(?) to ?
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You should be right Stu. The best way to check a TIP102 is to set the MM to "continuity" and then check for any shorts. Testing them this way is the easiest, and when you switch the game on, you won't have any locked on coils caused by the transistors. Measuring resistance to ground will give you different readings as you are measuring the "circuit", not the component. There are other components influencing the reading as the other components can have a 10% tolerance - like resistors for example..
cheers mate. one question re the HV section - the trimmer pot ? - do you use it? what do you trim voltages(?) to ?
The trimpot is used to adjust the high voltage to the displays. I usually drop mine to 170vdc. Grab a MM and set to VDC. Place the black lead on the GND TP and the red lead on TP2. The pot is used to lower the output voltage, so by adjusting it down to 170vdc, you are prolonging the life of the displays. It the HV section has a faulty transistor, you will get full 220vdc to 240vdc on TP2. Not Good.
If adjusting the trimpot does not change the output voltage at TP2, then you need a Bally HV Kit ;
http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_128_130&products_id=1127
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The design of the solenoid Driver board is a curious one. If the HV section develops a short across one of the transistors, then the full voltage appears at the displays. Ever seen the "dots" on a display ? Thats a sign that the display High Voltage is indeed "High Voltage".. Rather than the 175VDC - 190VDC, it has 220VDC applied which causes the displays to "wear out" from the over voltage. From memory, the reason behind this is that if the Transistor shorted and the HV to the displays was fused, then the displays would be protected, but the game would not be earning any takings ! It was assumed that the operator would see the "over bright" displays and then swap the SD over. That never happened !
In addition to the mandatory replacement of the HV Transistors, I made up an additional "kit" that replaces all the HV components. R35 and R31 are usually stressed and quite often burned out. This starts a chain reaction in the circuit and component tolerances are compromised..
C23 and C26are also replaced. C23 should be replaced as it was designed to last 10 years, not 30. On this particular SD, C26 was leaking, literally.
Removing the Components
Very easy step. Remove all the components in the HV area. If you are JUST replacing the HV Kit, then remove the transistors only. This involves removing the small heatsink for Q21.
Should look lie this ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/misc/Picture%20587.jpg)
Use 320 Grit Wet/Dry to clean up the solder pads to ensure the fresh solder has the best possible surface area to solder. Clean up using Metho or IsoAlcohol
Close up of the rear of the board ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/misc/Picture%20592.jpg)
Close up of the front of the board ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/misc/Picture%20593.jpg)
Sand the area clean, and be careful of the solder collars.. I have tested the Adjustment Pot, and it measures fine, so it will be left on the board. Now all is in readiness to install the new components, which I will list and cover in the next update !
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Top info. Thanks for sharing. It makes electronic newbies like me want to get the soldering iron out.
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Early on I mentioned additional parts I used in a more advanced kit than the standard HV Kit for this the Solenoid Driver board. This kit is not mandatory, but I find that on most of these boards, if the Transistors are faulty, something before or after are also out of tolerance or faulty.
Here's the list ;
R35 - Resistor 100K 1 Watt
R51 - Resistor 22K 1/2 Watt
R52 - Resistor 390 Ohm 1/4 Watt
R54 - Resistor 8.2K 1/4 Watt
R55 - Resistor 1.2K 1/4 Watt
R56 - Resistor 82K 1/2 Watt
VR1 - Zener Diode 140V 2 Watt
CR21 - Diode 1N4004
C27 & C28 - Capacitor 0.1uF 400V Polyester
Most of these parts SHOULD be available locally, but I bought them from Great Plains Electronics in the States.
Here's a pic of the advanced kit ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/misc/Picture%20604.jpg)
Q22 & Q23
These two transistors have some spacers which need to be retained and used with the new transistors in the HV Kit. Do not discard them. They look like this ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/misc/Picture%20601.jpg)
Next step - Install the parts and replace the connectors.
:D
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Nino, where did you learn about electronics? Are you trained or did you pick this up yourself? While I understand the general idea behind electronics and all the components involved, I'm amazed at how well you know the ins and outs of each component and the relationships between them all. Fascinating!
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Nino, where did you learn about electronics? Are you trained or did you pick this up yourself? While I understand the general idea behind electronics and all the components involved, I'm amazed at how well you know the ins and outs of each component and the relationships between them all. Fascinating!
It's all about learning troubleshooting techniques. I could troubleshoot EMs when I was 14 and Bally Bingos at 16.. By 18 I was Working on Juke Boxes from the 50's and 60's.. Even assisted a restoration of a Continental II by the time I was 25... By this age most kids that age were out drinking, modding cars and chasing tail.. I was more interested in Z80 and 6502 machine language programming ... Oh the memories...
I completed a Basic Electronics Certificate and an Advanced Certificate in Electronics in 1988-91.. So I can understand circuits using the same troubleshooting techniques learned from EM schematics.
Stupid me got into Computers... But then again, my Dad had the foresight to recognize that if the Arcade industry ever dissipated / collapsed, then I'd have something to fall back on..
Ironically, after 18 in the IT industry, I'd love nothing more than to work on pins from a restoration aspect.. Not necessarily repairs.
I even kept my old school notes and texts... :D
But I'm no electronics guru.. Just the basics..
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But I'm no electronics guru.. Just the basics..
Could have fooled me!
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Early on I mentioned additional parts I used in a more advanced kit than the standard HV Kit for this the Solenoid Driver board. This kit is not mandatory, but I find that on most of these boards, if the Transistors are faulty, something before or after are also out of tolerance or faulty.
Here's the list ;
R35 - Resistor 100K 1 Watt
R51 - Resistor 22K 1/2 Watt
R52 - Resistor 390 Ohm 1/4 Watt
R54 - Resistor 8.2K 1/4 Watt
R55 - Resistor 1.2K 1/4 Watt
R56 - Resistor 82K 1/2 Watt
VR1 - Zener Diode 140V 2 Watt
CR21 - Diode 1N4004
C27 & C28 - Capacitor 0.1uF 400V Polyester
Most of these parts SHOULD be available locally, but I bought them from Great Plains Electronics in the States.
I've generally sourced electronic parts cheaply at http://www.futurlec.com.au; they actually come from OS (Malaysia or Indonesia or ?) but the pricing is good and the postage is reasonable as well, and they don't mind hobbyist orders.
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Early on I mentioned additional parts I used in a more advanced kit than the standard HV Kit for this the Solenoid Driver board. This kit is not mandatory, but I find that on most of these boards, if the Transistors are faulty, something before or after are also out of tolerance or faulty.
Here's the list ;
R35 - Resistor 100K 1 Watt
R51 - Resistor 22K 1/2 Watt
R52 - Resistor 390 Ohm 1/4 Watt
R54 - Resistor 8.2K 1/4 Watt
R55 - Resistor 1.2K 1/4 Watt
R56 - Resistor 82K 1/2 Watt
VR1 - Zener Diode 140V 2 Watt
CR21 - Diode 1N4004
C27 & C28 - Capacitor 0.1uF 400V Polyester
Most of these parts SHOULD be available locally, but I bought them from Great Plains Electronics in the States.
I've generally sourced electronic parts cheaply at http://www.futurlec.com.au; they actually come from OS (Malaysia or Indonesia or ?) but the pricing is good and the postage is reasonable as well, and they don't mind hobbyist orders.
+1
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yes i get most of my parts from Futurlec as well, and the common parts i need straight away from Jaycar.
cheers Ian
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I've never really ordered from futurlec etc.. Might give them a try..
I've been buying from Ed at GPE as he carries everything I need = one stop shop and his service is legendary..
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i find futurlec are fantastic for IC's. eproms, 6821's, 6264 RAM, processors 6800's, TTL's, LM1375's. whilst they have an "au" domain the parts seem to come from thailand airmail. they are not fast, allow 1-2 weeks.
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It's been a while since I've updated this guide, so here it is !
I've replaced all the components I've listing in addition to the GPE HV Kit. Of note - C26 was definitely not in good shape so it was removed and discarded. J3 was also replaced as the pins were tarnished. I plan on replacing all the connectors, as this board will be going into my treasured Paragon. All the pins will be replaced as well.
Here's a couple "after shots" of the board ;
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/misc/Picture%20052.jpg)
(http://www.aussiepinball.com/strangeways/restores/misc/Picture%20056.jpg)
Cable ties are tightened BEFORE soldering the legs on the capacitors. Note C23 has its legs soldered directly to the board.
Work to be done ;
All connectors
Test the board in the machine
Update the Ground (mods), as per Clay's guide
Just a quick note - I've received a couple of PMs regarding some SD boards on eBay recently.. These are NOT "tested" (if they are it would be a visual test ::) - they would not be working correctly ), contrary to the Auction descriptions, and the proof of this fact are that the original C23 is still soldered to the board. These caps last 10 years before they start to fail. They cost $5 to replace.. In the past, I have picked up SD Boards for $20 in better condition on eBay. It would cost an addition $20 in parts to have it rebuilt.
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wish i read this earlier,got caught out on `factory tested` board.hv section reads 230+ at tp2!!
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wish i read this earlier,got caught out on `factory tested` board.hv section reads 230+ at tp2!!
Yep - What factory "tests" these boards ??
I knew someone would get "bitten" - Sorry it was yourself !
If TP2 = TP4 you have been sold an untested and defective board. I cannot believe people claim to have "tested" the boards, when clearly, they are defective.
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You should ask for a refund as they are obviously not tested. What the heck does "factory tested" mean? These were built years ago so no factory would have tested them since then. More eBay BS... #@#
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wish i read this earlier,got caught out on `factory tested` board.hv section reads 230+ at tp2!!
"Factory tested" - where is there a genuine factory anymore to test these things?
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wish i read this earlier,got caught out on `factory tested` board.hv section reads 230+ at tp2!!
mate , send me the board and i will check it for you and can fix it if needed
i know have 3 techs out back and can have it looked at
not by me as I cant but the guys out back can
mark
"PSP Factory Tested and Certified"
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wish i read this earlier,got caught out on `factory tested` board.hv section reads 230+ at tp2!!
mate , send me the board and i will check it for you and can fix it if needed
i know have 3 techs out back and can have it looked at
not by me as I cant but the guys out back can
mark
Let me know if you need parts Mark. It will be the HV transistors. While you are at it - C22, C22 and most likely 2 - 3 connectors.
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wayne sent me a e-mail telling me to send it back!will cost $10.80 postage,??should i?or shall i fix it myself,humm.
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>> wayne,i purchased off you a `fully tested` high voltage/driver board.,however the high voltage section is not working,power to displays is reading 230 vdc.should be 155-190max..how would you like to resolve this annomoly,regards damien
>
>all boards are tested before shipping on a Bally Factory Test Bench
both without a load and with a load
please ship the board back to us and we will take a look at it.
i will send board back to you at your expence.only
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>> wayne,i purchased off you a `fully tested` high voltage/driver board.,however the high voltage section is not working,power to displays is reading 230 vdc.should be 155-190max..how would you like to resolve this annomoly,regards damien
>
>all boards are tested before shipping on a Bally Factory Test Bench
both without a load and with a load
please ship the board back to us and we will take a look at it.
i will send board back to you at your expence.only
I know of one person with a Bally factory test bench - it is in Sydney. It is possible that there is another one - granted. But part of the "testing" process was not completed.
It was sold as "tested" with a 30 year old capacitor, 20 years past its "use by date", with an fault inherent of these boards. Seller should accept all responsibility and costs associated with the repair of a faulty, untested board.
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When I was a newly qualified electronics engineer (many moons ago) in Brisbane I was asked to a meeting at a very large amusement company that operated jukeboxes, pool tables and EM pins in about 30% of the pubs and clubs in the Brisbane area. They had just received their first electronic pin, a Bally Playboy. The techs there were way out of their depth when they opened the backbox and looked, mostly being ex-telecom techs. PCBs were a complete mystery to them as was electronics in general.
I knew one of the techs socially and he asked me to come and look. When I looked I could see straight away things like coil driver transistors etc and when I could actually 'read' the circuit diagram they were all stunned. The boss asked me "when could I start work there". That was my entry to the "amusement" industry, I started the following week.
I relate this story because when the owner of this company ordered his first batch of Bally electronic pins he also ordered a "Bally factory test bench". This was basically a wiring harness connected to all the boards and a power supply and a massive array of lamps, switches and displays all mounted in a very large fold-up cabinet.
You would plug in the board you suspected of being faulty and could work on it more easily than in a machine. It was hardly an earth shattering machine. I know that quite a few of the larger operators bought these at HUGE cost because they were very worried that their non-electronic techs (which was probably 95%) needed every bit of help they could get to keep these new machines working.
Mostly we never needed the test machine but it was handy to soak test boards or used if a tech brought suspect boards back from the field.
The bottom line is that there are many of these test benchs out there, or at least there were, most were probably stripped for the boards. They are certainly not exclusive to a particular Bally agent at all despite what he might claim. Their value is dubious in my mind as it really just replicates a pinball machine - it doesn't 'test' anything that you cannot just as easily test with the board in your machine. These days you don't have the issue of the pin being in a corner store when it made sense to bring the offending boards back to the workshop where the test bench was used.