The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Technical Matters => Pinball Repairs / Problems & Assistance => Topic started by: MartyJ on November 23, 2008, 03:05:26 PM
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Hi Guys,
Hopefully this will be the last bug I chase...
I have been experiencing some very random resets on my LAH. Well not really resets but more that the game just finishes, ie GI turns off and goes to match sequence, right in the middle of ball play. It does not appear to be in any particular point, or ball going into certain switch etc...
I have read through Clay's guide, I've insulated the rear of the sound board (with foam that comes with pc motherboard)..It it was the same flipper, pop bumper, sling etc. I would be looking at the diodes, but as it is so random I don't know. I dont really what to have to replace all the GI diodes unless necessary...
The next step may be to redo the 5v section of the power supply? I am a little stumped and any suggestions would be fantastic. #*# #*#
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Marty - I'd be checking the Fuse Holders on the Power supply. They are notorious from problems like the one you describe.
Check connectors - Which I think you have done.
Rebuild the 5V section.
That should cover it, I'd think.
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Marty - I'd be checking the Fuse Holders on the Power supply. They are notorious from problems like the one you describe.
Check connectors - Which I think you have done.
Rebuild the 5V section.
That should cover it, I'd think.
Fuse holders done on Power Supply. Connectors look OK...None appear burnt or discoloured and seem to fit OK (ie not loose)...
I think perhaps the 5v needs looking at...I've got all the bits except the 2N6059 and 330uf 35v cap. I will order some from futurlec.com.au and see how I go.....
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Marty - I'd be checking the Fuse Holders on the Power supply. They are notorious from problems like the one you describe.
Check connectors - Which I think you have done.
Rebuild the 5V section.
That should cover it, I'd think.
Fuse holders done on Power Supply. Connectors look OK...None appear burnt or discoloured and seem to fit OK (ie not loose)...
I think perhaps the 5v needs looking at...I've got all the bits except the 2N6059 and 330uf 35v cap. I will order some from futurlec.com.au and see how I go.....
Go ahead with the rebuild.. This is a new issue with the game - isn't it ?
Just wondering if the reset is caused by any particular action on the playfield - like hitting the same target etc.. I've seen a switch wired incorrectly which threw the switch matrix on a Bally/Williams and it caused a "slam tilt" once in a while..
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Check and replace the metal fuse clips. Replace them don't solder them up.
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Marty - I'd be checking the Fuse Holders on the Power supply. They are notorious from problems like the one you describe.
Check connectors - Which I think you have done.
Rebuild the 5V section.
That should cover it, I'd think.
Fuse holders done on Power Supply. Connectors look OK...None appear burnt or discoloured and seem to fit OK (ie not loose)...
I think perhaps the 5v needs looking at...I've got all the bits except the 2N6059 and 330uf 35v cap. I will order some from futurlec.com.au and see how I go.....
Go ahead with the rebuild.. This is a new issue with the game - isn't it ?
Just wondering if the reset is caused by any particular action on the playfield - like hitting the same target etc.. I've seen a switch wired incorrectly which threw the switch matrix on a Bally/Williams and it caused a "slam tilt" once in a while..
Not really a new issue, has done it 3 times since I finished everything else (over 1 month period)....No particular action otherwise I would be looking at that matrix...Flippers have been used - that is the only commonality, but no targets the same etc...Unless a G.I wire is done incorrectly I cant suspect anything else...When it does go into tilt / slam tilt it comes up on the DMD as TILT, which has never done...Just finishes the game.....
Check and replace the metal fuse clips. Replace them don't solder them up.
Yep, all fuse clips replaced with new ones on powerboard. All others checked and seem OK.
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The fuse clips on PBB not the power supply.
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The fuse clips on PBB not the power supply.
Ahh PBB no....I pressed on the side of each one on all and didn't move...I didn't put a flat blade screwdriver under the base and lift as I didn't want to cause damage..
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pull the board out of the machine, remove one fuse at a time and have a good look at the clips. At least one will be cracked, try to move the clip tabs with your fingers. These clips always break.
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pull the board out of the machine, remove one fuse at a time and have a good look at the clips. At least one will be cracked, try to move the clip tabs with your fingers. These clips always break.
Just removed board out....Each fuse removed one at a time..Visual inspection of clip looked ok. With flat blade screwdriver on inside of clip pressed away and has good tension...unlike the powerboard ones which went soft and bent with same method...
Board looks as if had previous repair (apart from the Q1 which I replaced) so I suspect they may have been done before...
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OK, after another hour of trying to reproduce manually what happened (although it didn't reset the game this time) I observed a bit of an oddity.
When the Lt Decker spinner is going and if you press flippers - the ball shooter will fire once.
I don't know if this is a feature or some sort of weird problem. I had previously changed the diode on the ball shooter, but will also now change the one on the spinner too....
Update....replaced spinner diode...nil value.
Game has not reset, but I dont think the ball shooter should be firing when spinner is going! (with flippers)
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OK, after another hour of trying to reproduce manually what happened (although it didn't reset the game this time) I observed a bit of an oddity.
When the Lt Decker spinner is going and if you press flippers - the ball shooter will fire once.
I don't know if this is a feature or some sort of weird problem. I had previously changed the diode on the ball shooter, but will also now change the one on the spinner too....
Update....replaced spinner diode...nil value.
Game has not reset, but I dont think the ball shooter should be firing when spinner is going! (with flippers)
That's strange.... Check that the spinner is not in the same column / row as the ball shooter..
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OK, after another hour of trying to reproduce manually what happened (although it didn't reset the game this time) I observed a bit of an oddity.
When the Lt Decker spinner is going and if you press flippers - the ball shooter will fire once.
I don't know if this is a feature or some sort of weird problem. I had previously changed the diode on the ball shooter, but will also now change the one on the spinner too....
Update....replaced spinner diode...nil value.
Game has not reset, but I dont think the ball shooter should be firing when spinner is going! (with flippers)
That's strange.... Check that the spinner is not in the same column / row as the ball shooter..
I get a little confused how to read these, but if they go numerical down each column then spinner is in different column to ball shooter. Right / left flipper in same column as spinner
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OK further testing has revealed the following:
(a) in diagnostics mode if either flipper button pressed on its own...just reports that flipper button...
(b) in diagnostics mode if left flipper button pressed (with spinner switch activated) reports left flipper + ball trough 7 switch
(c) in diagnostics mode if right flipper button pressed (with spinner switch activated) reports right flipper + ball shooter switch...
There has been a wiring hack which I suspect may have caused the issue....If someone can let me know if above is NOT correct in diagnostics then also what wiring should come off trough 7 and to where and wiring from ball shooter switch (one which ball rolls over )...
I will have a look at the schematics I got but I have a bit of a hard time understanding it...I will take a photo of the hack and upload soon...
#$# (shrugs shoulders at some operators who do this)
OK hack as follows (!)
(http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/2572/rimg0422lw2.th.jpg) (http://img368.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rimg0422lw2.jpg)(http://img368.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif) (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)
(http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/8440/rimg0423cc0.th.jpg) (http://img155.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rimg0423cc0.jpg)(http://img155.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif) (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)
(http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/7815/rimg0426ic6.th.jpg) (http://img221.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rimg0426ic6.jpg)(http://img221.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif) (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)
(http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/8220/rimg0428qd2.th.jpg) (http://img368.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rimg0428qd2.jpg)(http://img368.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif) (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)
The yellow wire (non std) goes from the NO of trough 7 switch, straight to the NO of ball shooter switch, then via the hack at the plug to CN8?
From looking at the schematics (from my translation) it looks as if this is correct...
However, I have found a loose wire which connects off like a dumb terminal from the underside of the PF...It could just be a loose wire but I don't know if its a hack or not. There does not appear to be a colour banding on this. The other two wires on the other lug is white / red (which I think is switch returns). The one from the spinner is white orange which both go to C10.... I cannot find a schematic for under PF wiring such as this either..I'm trying here but starting to get a little ^.^
(http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/963/rimg0430ar8.th.jpg) (http://img380.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rimg0430ar8.jpg)(http://img380.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif) (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)
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Looks to me like the IDC connector has been butchered and another wire (yellow) has been used in its place. It might look ugly, but it looks like it was a "running repair"..
I don't see the "loose" wire - looks to be three wires soldered, and a diode in circuit.
I'd be looking at the circuit to see if the Spinner diode is wired correctly. I know you replaced it, but it might have been around the wrong way to start with ?
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Looks to me like the IDC connector has been butchered and another wire (yellow) has been used in its place. It might look ugly, but it looks like it was a "running repair"..
I don't see the "loose" wire - looks to be three wires soldered, and a diode in circuit.
I'd be looking at the circuit to see if the Spinner diode is wired correctly. I know you replaced it, but it might have been around the wrong way to start with ?
Thanks Nino,
Sorry the middle terminal (white wire) is just hanging down to no where...It looks like it has been connected at some stage but NFI where......
I've gone over everything again (ie I now totally agree re the fugly repair)...I will try to locate the spinner on the schematics and double check....My head is starting to hurt a little now...
The other thing is that it may be a feature that just has not been noticed - ie when the spinner switch is activated these do too?
From looking at the switch matrix, the one thing in common is the Grn/Gry wire (column) whereby it has scoop spinner, left & right flipper... The left & right flipper share the same rows as trough 7 and shooter lane? Is it possible that the flipper board is playing funny buggers? I have had intermittent issues with it previously and I was considering giving it the boot and getting a rottendog / pinled replacement...I'm just thinking back to the whole ripper issue being related to the magnet pcb?? (just shooting from the hip again)...
Off to check diode orentation....
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Your problem looks to be a switch matrix issue...You may need to check all the switches in the same row as the flippers and spinner.. That wire "floating around" is not right... you will need to find out what purpose in life this has...
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Your problem looks to be a switch matrix issue...You may need to check all the switches in the same row as the flippers and spinner.. That wire "floating around" is not right... you will need to find out what purpose in life this has...
I have manually checked every single switch in diagnostics and 1 through to 64 works (ie displays correct switch when pressed)...
The column with flippers & spinners - Q48 GRN-GRY (CN8-9)...Each switch also works but I will check wiring as best as I can...
The diode (if I'm reading schematics correctly) the non-banded side goes to WHT-ORN for spinner switch. If this is correct I will check others too...
The smart missile button does NOT have a diode - so if again I'm reading schematics correctly it should have (non-banded side to WHT-BLU)?
My head is starting to hurt with all of this. I agree with you 100% Nino (as if I wouldn't!) as it is a switch matrix issue. Hopefully its not the CPU...
From reading Clay's guide to such issues, I'm not sure how to isolate which switches are bad.....I believe it is the scoop spinner which is causing the phantom activations...but I can't understand how to work out the other switches I need to look at within the "corners of the square"....I will need to elimate all of these before I look at the CPU...
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Don't stress Marty - All these games have small issues - and that's what they turn out to be = "Small issues"..
If I had the schematic in front of me - I could help you out a bit better. You problem is with the row or column that the flippers and spinner is in. Look at the schematic for the switch matrix - "read" each switch and follow the wire guide and the orientation of the diode in respect to the switch physically... It could be a bad diode on that row, or a switch that is not wired correctly.. Also, check that each switch lug is not touching anything like a light socket etc..
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I'll dig out the manual tomorrow.
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I'll dig out the manual tomorrow.
Good stuff Mick... I'm betting on a mis wired switch or failed diode...
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Thanks guys....I appreciate your help.
Mick, if your able to have a look at your LAH and see where the white wire (middle lug) of that terminal block just to the right of the middle scoops is to go as well I would appreciate it as well....I couldn't find it on the schematics either...
Regards
Marty
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Thanks guys....I appreciate your help.
Mick, if your able to have a look at your LAH and see where the white wire (middle lug) of that terminal block just to the right of the middle scoops is to go as well I would appreciate it as well....I couldn't find it on the schematics either...
Regards
Marty
OK firstly the smart missile does NOT use a diode.
Your problem appears to be in column 8 GRN-GRY wire. Same column you were having trouble with before in regards to the crane movement.
This column has: middle scoop left, middle scoop right, scoop spinner, crane left limit, crane right limit, smart missile, left flipper and right flipper.
The loose white wire under the playfield goes to the banded side of the diode on the micro switch for the middle scoop right.
That connector at CN8 needs to be replaced, I'd also bet that the header pins there would be burnt or tarnished if so replace them too.
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Thanks guys....I appreciate your help.
Mick, if your able to have a look at your LAH and see where the white wire (middle lug) of that terminal block just to the right of the middle scoops is to go as well I would appreciate it as well....I couldn't find it on the schematics either...
Regards
Marty
OK firstly the smart missile does NOT use a diode.
Your problem appears to be in column 8 GRN-GRY wire. Same column you were having trouble with before in regards to the crane movement.
This column has: middle scoop left, middle scoop right, scoop spinner, crane left limit, crane right limit, smart missile, left flipper and right flipper.
The loose white wire under the playfield goes to the banded side of the diode on the micro switch for the middle scoop right.
That connector at CN8 needs to be replaced, I'd also bet that the header pins there would be burnt or tarnished if so replace them too.
OK....Would that wire not being connected cause the above issues? I will reconnect tonight...
Re CN8...It looks a bit average with the soldering job...I will replace but no signs of burnt on connector (apart from where soldered?)...Where can I get connector / header pins?
When I replaced the crane assembly motor/gear it works 100%...The switches were left as is...
Should I get any other switches within that column?
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Just replace the wire and report back with what happens.
http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/
Sell replacement connectors and pins, if you don't replace that connector it will come back to haunt you at a later time.
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Just replace the wire and report back with what happens.
http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/
Sell replacement connectors and pins, if you don't replace that connector it will come back to haunt you at a later time.
Will do!
No shortcuts here......
Thanks again. Wont be til tonight but will update asap.
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Usual suspects (Greg and Mark) sell the headers / pins / housings if you don't want to order O/S.
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Ahh OK...
If I only had frequent pinball points with both Greg & Mark....
*%*
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Ahh OK...
If I only had frequent pinball points with both Greg & Mark....
*%*
lol
after all the time we spent together .....
my wife was wondering when u moving in ?
<.> <.>
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Just replace the wire and report back with what happens.
http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/
Sell replacement connectors and pins, if you don't replace that connector it will come back to haunt you at a later time.
OK. Loose white wire resoldered back on to middle right scoop (diode side)....Nil change.
With a clear head this arvo (been thinking about this prob all day!)...realised one thing...The scoop spinner is causing phantom's (or is it contributing)....Realised that I have 6 active switches as well (ball trough)....Removed all balls, trough 3 seems to be a culprit.....
With Trough 3 activated, scoop spinner activated problem occurs.... With trough 3 off, spinner on and both flippers activated...Nil prob...
I have swapped switch (with diode ) with a spare...Nil value..
(scratches head)
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OK check the diodes on the switches for middle scoop left, right and spinner.
If no problem there, then your problem could lie in row 3, which is WHT-ORN connector CN10-7.
Things to look at here are credit button, trough 3, drop target A, right stand up bottom, right turbo bumper, left outlane and scoop spinner.
Please check and report back with results.
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OK check the diodes on the switches for middle scoop left, right and spinner.
If no problem there, then your problem could lie in row 3, which is WHT-ORN connector CN10-7.
Things to look at here are credit button, trough 3, drop target A, right stand up bottom, right turbo bumper, left outlane and scoop spinner.
Please check and report back with results.
OK 1/2 a step ahead. Diodes already replaced for middle scoop (s) & spinner (note switch not replaced).
Diodes replaced for trough3 (& switch), drop target A...
Credit button looks like some funky wiring...Have replaced diode on it, but if you can confirm what wiring should go to what on switch (inc lights) as the diode and a red wire go off to like an earth, but on the wood??? (for lamp) but also wiring to switch seems to be different than that of the smart missile (ie NC, NO & COM).
Will replace right stand up bottom, right turbo bumper and left outlane tomorrow, as my head hurts tonight!
My understanding of clays guide (I could be well wrong here) with the whole square thing on matrix is - if trough 3 causing issues - check trough2, drop target r, drop target a and trough 3 - which I've done all.
If scoop spinner causing issues - check drop target a, single left rollover, scoop spinner & right flipper? Have not done single left rollover as is right under crane & pain in butt if I'm wrong....flipper diode - is this on flipper board? If so can a funky flipper board be causing these issues perhaps??.
I am probably well off track re my interpretation of clays guide anyway...I will try your above's then report back tomorrow night!
Thanks again for your persistance with this....Once again this place is fantastic for support with such issue to get a great pin!
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Data east flipper boards can be trouble, mainly caused by the playfield being lifted up and down. Check the board to make sure that the playfield hasn't taken out or knocked off any parts.
Will confirm wiring tomorrow for the credit.
Hang in there.
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Data east flipper boards can be trouble, mainly caused by the playfield being lifted up and down. Check the board to make sure that the playfield hasn't taken out or knocked off any parts.
Will confirm wiring tomorrow for the credit.
Hang in there.
Thanks Humpalot....
No obvious signs of damage on flipper board. Unfortunately Simpsons is a different revision so I cant put it in to test....
I have ordered some new flipper leaf's too. I'm not at home to check but should these have diodes on them too?
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Data east flipper boards can be trouble, mainly caused by the playfield being lifted up and down. Check the board to make sure that the playfield hasn't taken out or knocked off any parts.
Will confirm wiring tomorrow for the credit.
Hang in there.
Thanks Humpalot....
No obvious signs of damage on flipper board. Unfortunately Simpsons is a different revision so I cant put it in to test....
I have ordered some new flipper leaf's too. I'm not at home to check but should these have diodes on them too?
Whilst your looking at the flipper board check fuse clips and resolder the header pins.
I've attached a photo of the start button showing the wiring on my machine. On the start mirco switch the wires go: WHT-RED to non band side of diode NC 2, green wires to NO 3, diode banded side goes to C 1.
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Awesome. Perfect timing just got home and soldering iron warming up....
Will check credit wiring then redo other diodes....
Fuse holders on flipper board tested same. Nil signs of dry joints / cracking as I looked over it when I had some flipper issues previously...
Will report back soonish!
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FUK FUK FUK.
Should of paid more attention to that CN8 connector that I didn't like the look of.
CN8 is for the switch drive.
Connector is wired as: pin2 grn-red, pin3 grn-org, pin4 grn-yel, pin5 grn-blk, pin7 grn-blu, pin8 grn-vio, pin9 grn-gry.
Looks like this is where your problem lies. You have one wire too many?
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OK...Update ^.^
Scoop spinner diode previously replaced, right turbo switch diode replaced, drop target A diode replaced, trough 3 diode replaced, credit button diode replaced & wiring checked. Nil value. The only diode to go is the left outlane...Have to remove crane assembly so my next question is for some reason my gut tells me there is an issue with flipper board....
The flipper board which the manual states I should have is a 520-5070-00 (Rev A)....My Simpsons has a 520-5033-00.....I will try to google to see if compatible before I remove crane to change diode....
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FUK FUK FUK.
Should of paid more attention to that CN8 connector that I didn't like the look of.
CN8 is for the switch drive.
Connector is wired as: pin2 grn-red, pin3 grn-org, pin4 grn-yel, pin5 grn-blk, pin7 grn-blu, pin8 grn-vio, pin9 grn-gry.
Looks like this is where your problem lies. You have one wire too many?
Hmm, I will go down and double check and photgraph..
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The pic you posted earlier shows a wire on pin 1. Pin 1 and 6 should have nothing on them.
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The pic you posted earlier shows a wire on pin 1. Pin 1 and 6 should have nothing on them.
The switch matrix I have here has GRN-BRN (CN8-1)? I must admit the connection looks dodgy (soldered in) and will be replaced asap.
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That yellow wire !*!
Need to put back the original wiring. The wire that is currently on pin 1 grn-red needs to go where the yellow wire is.
But you also need to make sure that the grn-red still goes and attaches to the hacked connector under the playfield is (again that's where the yellow wire is currently)
Fix up that wiring and we are headed in the right direction #*#
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That yellow wire !*!
Need to put back the original wiring. The wire that is currently on pin 1 grn-red needs to go where the yellow wire is.
But you also need to make sure that the grn-red still goes and attaches to the hacked connector under the playfield is (again that's where the yellow wire is currently)
Fix up that wiring and we are headed in the right direction #*#
Yep, that yellow wire is replacing the GRN-RED as it must have broken somewhere from the playfield plug up....
Before I go any further, is GRN-BRN OK at pos 1 ?
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Use your DMM to continuity check the grn-red wire, if it checks out OK remove all the yellow and replace it with grn-red. Either way grn-red still has to be removed from pin 1 on the connector.
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Oops should also add that the grn-red wire drives switches 9-16.
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Oops should also add that the grn-red wire drives switches 9-16.
OK...I am a little confused now..Sorry..
The GRN-RED wire (which is now yellow) has been replaced from PIN 2 on CN8. I am guessing that it has broken at some stage and the OP has rewired. The original GRN-RED still connects from trough 1 to trough 6. The yellow goes from trough 7 & shooter lane to other side of playfield plug (connecting to GRN-RED) then yellow to above.
The GRN-BRN (pin 1) is plumb tilt to launch trigger?
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Straight from the schematics is what I've been quoting. There IS NO WIRE ON PIN 1. Please remove it.
I'd guess that that the wire that is currently on pin 1 is the discoloured wire that should be on pin2, hence the switch problem that you are having. Fix it and report back.
Check previous post for connector pin wiring, that is straight off the schematic for this game YOUR GAME IS CURRENTLY WIRED WRONG.
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Wire on PIN 1 GRN-BRN removed. Double checked yellow hack and is definately connected to GRN-RED @ PIN2.
When Spinner, ball trough 3 switches activated & flipper reports ball shooter & trough 7 still.
No credit switch or trigger launch since removing GRN-BRN..
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Wire on PIN 1 GRN-BRN removed. Double checked yellow hack and is definately connected to GRN-RED @ PIN2.
When Spinner, ball trough 3 switches activated & flipper reports ball shooter & trough 7 still.
No credit switch or trigger launch since removing GRN-BRN..
Is there a cut grn-red wire near the hack connector under the playfield?
If so use your DMM to check continuity of this grn-red wire with the cut wire under the playfield or if you can't find a cut grn-red wire then continuity check another of the grn-red wires that go to other switches.
THE HACK APPEARS TO BE THE PROBLEM WITH YOUR MACHINE. UNTIL THIS FIXED THERE IS NO POINT DOING ANYTHING ELSE.
If it was me I'd completely remove the whole hack and start again, I like to keep all wiring original where possible.
Welcome to the world of container pin hacks :D
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The schematic shows that there is a note for switches 1-8. However there is nothing further there. I'll have a look at my machine and post what I find.
The schematic is missing something @.@
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!*! !*!schematics. I was reading straight out of an original copy of the schematics and the wiring for the CN8 is clearly missing any reference to a wire at pin 1. However the switch matrix does show it.
My apology, you are correct the grn-brn wire does go to pin 1 of the connector and controls switches 1-8 PLEASE RE ATTACH IT.
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The schematic shows that there is a note for switches 1-8. However there is nothing further there. I'll have a look at my machine and post what I find.
The schematic is missing something @.@
No stress....I appreciate your help!
The red has been cut in the backbox. The yellow is definately hacked into the red. The other end of red is under PF...I've gone over it and the yellow is definately in the place of GRN-RED.
The naughty wire at PIN1 (GRN-??). I've traced it back, managed to cut myself in the process, is one which goes back to plumb, coins, credit, slam and trigger....
I think you are right re the plug...Maybe when its been soldered (pin 1 & 2) as they have melted plastic when under load they are shorting between the two??? I ran the buzz from one, and it didn't pick up the other but just a thought - apart from the hacks.... I am happy to remove the yellow, but I suspect its been done for a reason as the GRN-RED may have been pinched somewhere....
Anyhoo. Enough for tonight...Need to glue my finger back on and spend a little time with the boss....
I can't find the replacement plug on Marks site either...Have they a special name?
Thanks
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I've ordered some molex connectors from Mark so hopefully these will fit...
I'm not 100% confident it will fix the problem but needs to be done....
I have replaced about 80% of switch diodes thus far....Not too sure what next step should be. I guess replace the diode under crane assembly which will complete that row/column.
From memory I had tested transisters on CPU Q48 onwards and they were OK. Nil further done ie resistors etc...
Clays guide suggests a shorted switch can cause similar issues. Now is this a diode which causes short, or physical short - ie pin touching metal etc...
As far as the flipper board goes, I'm still tempted to buy a PinLED / Rottendog replacement but will cost me about $200.00 to get in...
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Molex connectors can be cut to fit - so that won't be an issue. Hopefully you have a crimper ?
A "shorted" switch that Clay refers to is most likely an internal short within a switch. I would not spend the $$ on the board - It the problem IS a shorting switch then it would be a waste of $200..
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I have a crimper. Last time I molex on my arcade machine I used my leatherman...Hopefully Mark's will come with pins for it??
I guess the million dollar question is should I look upstream or downstream for dodgy switch? Everything seems to centre around the damm spinner. I have a spare ball trough switch which I may swap blade on to see...
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OK. Firstly BIG thanks to Humpalot (again & again) for his patience and persistance with advice on my reset issues and also Strangeways with his advice and assistance too. Once again this IS the best Aussie Pinball forum!
OK, for me I've learnt heaps about reading schematics and switch matrix's and certainly understand how they work and where to look for errors. Also, the old KISS principle for me. Although I changed just about every diode on the playfield switches I should have taken the simple step of not assuming the switches were OK just because they were working (and reporting working in diagnostics). Also I was looking at possible issues all around what was staring me in the face. The spinner switch when activated was central to all other phantom reports of switches opening...Just because the spinner was working fine doesn't mean the switch itself is healthy.
I replaced the switch (bit of a hack job really, I got some ball trough switches from Mark, swapped blades and new spinner switch), and now no issues. Well, certainly no trough 7 or shooter lane phantom openings which may have been playing havoc with the switch matrix.
I can't say for certain this will fix the random reset issue. This I wont know until further game play but I suspect it probably will.
Things to do: Will replace dodgy CN8 connector asap. Have parts now (and mostly ordered) to rebuild power supply. This may not be needed yet but perhaps a job to come. Continue to play and see if original issue of reset occurs, buy another project machine from Mark!
Thanks again to everyone #*# #*# #*# #*# #*# #*#
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Great to hear. That's what this place is about. Helping each other. I love it. ^^^
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Great News !
It is a great learning experience for you Marty - and it will give you the confidence to repair your machines in the future. As you said - you can target project games and KNOW you can fix them up.
Good work - and special thanks to Mick (again)...
#*#
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Awesome stuff - great to hear youve solved the issues.
I only have 1 rule when fixing stuff and thats if ive assumed then ive gone wrong.
We need more success stories....wheres that guy with the SYS7 board down???? %.% %.% %.% %.%
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Dormant ! ^.^ Too busy to think....ahhh the joys of xmas !
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Futher testing done tonight for a few hours. Nil random resets so thus far all good...!
Big thanks to Mark for the delivery of parts tonight too! The extra service is always appreciated.
Hope you get that special 'wrapped package' home safe and sound!