The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: 63wizz on November 29, 2008, 10:38:17 PM
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Well i thought i had better start a restoration thread for my Haunted House, i will add things to this thread as i do them
probably in no order, just as they get done.
I placed an add in the local paper for non working pinball machines, when i got a call and the guy on the other end told me he
had a HH for sale my eyes nearly popped out of my head. What a fantastic project to come across.
Back glass is 9/10 Playfield is 7/10 Cabinet art 8.5/10 overall the HH is in good nic, the lower play field was not installed
and has not been in the machine for the last 13 to 14 years, the person i bought it off said he bought it off an operator 13 or 14 years
ago, the operator had a lot of trouble with the up kicker and decided to remove the lower PF and block up all the entrance holes
to the lower PF.(see picture secret passage below).
THE LOWER PLAY FIELD
The lower PF was a bit rough, it looks like it was laying up against the shed wall for 13 years, covered in dust and corrosion not rusty
just corroded brackets, the PF had been raided for parts, coils,brackets and bulbs missing.
I sourced all the parts needed for the resto of this PF locally and proceeded to strip and clean with windex scotchbrite pads steel wool and
mag wheel cleaner (autosol),
I removed all light globe sockets and cleaned inside them with emery cloth, soldered the socket housing and
earth bracket together and soldered the wire to the center spring loaded lug.
then i put a globe in and tested them on a 6v battery before placing them back on the PF.
the top side of the PF was cleaned with shellite and then with isocol and magic eraser then polished with novus 3 then novus 2
then wipe down with shellite again to remove wax for decal application to the usual wear spots on the lower PF.
I printed the decals for the wear spots with my bubble jet printer on sticky back white A4 paper, i had trouble getting a good
colour match to the PF, but it looks better than wear spots.
I used a sharpie pen and touched up the black around the inserts.
I placed the decals in position then placed a full mylar over the ball play area.
I Polished all metal posts and screw heads, washed plastic posts and flattened the PF plastics (i reduced the carbon footprint and used natural heat from the sun to do this) I placed the plastics on a piece of flat timber with glass over the top of them and placed the lot on the back window sill of the car in the sun, a couple of hours later and they were as flat as.
Then the fun part putting everything back together, I fitted new white rubbers.
I need to do the up kicker upgrade using a pop bumper driver board and the Lower PF will be complete.
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How i wish someone would ring me with an HH.
But it does prove my theory - first ad you put in will be a cracker.
On my first ad i picked up a 1937 Stoner RICOCHET - first phone call too!
I was stoked - havent repeated the good fortune since.
But well done with this - top game to pick up and the restore adds to the fun. Bet you never sell it
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Great Stuff, Ian... I can't wait to start mine - Keep the updates coming !
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Enjoying watching this baby coming back to life Ian, keep the updates coming please!
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The Decals
The lower PF had some wear under the pop bumper, there was a plastic non adhesive mylar under it
but i guess a build up of dirt under the mylar and the lack of cleaning made the play field wear.
I took a photo of this area when the PF was stripped and done some photoshopping and printed
a decal.
The lower PF installed
when i installed the play field after completion i switched on the machine and it blew the solenoid fuse
i thought whats going on,because the machine did not boot up when this happened.
anyway i replaced the fuse and left the PF up so i could see what was going on when i turn it on.
this time the machine booted and no fuses blew, I switched the HH off and layed the PF down and fired it up again.
everything is ok, so i layed the main PF down and popped in the ball, removed the rubber blocking the secret passage
and started playing a game, i grabbed the ball and dropped it down the secret passage to the LPF, everything was working
fine, even the up kicker worked ok.
then the ball went into the kicker hole on the LPF (lower play field) and would not kick out, well something had to go wrong
didnt it, but i traced this problem to a bad connection on the MPU board.
so at the moment the game is playable with only a credit display fault, im not worried about at the moment.
I hope you like pictures (i do).
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Enjoying watching this baby coming back to life Ian, keep the updates coming please!
Not a problem pinnies4me
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Looking very nice.
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Look great !
There's something about HH.. I love looking at pictures of the playfield..Awesome machine.
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Wow man. Pinnies from heaven!
I don't know if I want to pay the money for a HH, but I wish there was one somewhere near me I could play once in a while. I remember playing it at the arcade when I was a younger man. I didn't make enough money back then to get any good at it.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff201/rgpimage/afroL.gif)
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I followed clays power supply upgrade only need to do the connector pins when i get some.
(http://)
i also upgraded the sound board power supply, it was missing -12volt and humming quite loudly.
(http://)
having a few games with the family this morning, every one loves the cellar PF.
the first games with the glass on and the back glass in since i got it home.
(http://)
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can someone tell me how to match my text up to the pictures i am posting #@#
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the first games with the glass on and the back glass in since i got it home.
I love that "first glass-on game" after sorting out a game! best fun there is in pinball! :)
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Looks awesome! Great stuff!
Was there mylar on the PF at all?
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Nice pick up Ian, looking good ^^^
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Looks awesome! Great stuff!
Was there mylar on the PF at all?
The lower PF had no mylar at all, the attic PF has a mylar but not under the pop bumper witch has worn, the main
PF has a mylar around the cellar window across to the left and right sides of the PF,up to the secret passage entrance
but there is wear in various areas that are not mylared on the main PF.
I will remove the mylar and do some decals for the attic PF, probably the same for the main PF.
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the first games with the glass on and the back glass in since i got it home.
I love that "first glass-on game" after sorting out a game! best fun there is in pinball! :)
gives you a seance of achievement when its all covered in, even though theres a lot more to do
and the glass quietens the workings of the game down, you can actually hear the sound properly.
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Well done, looks great ^^^ and a good price all up I'm sure .
I've never played a Haunted House the 3 PF's would make it interesting, Is this the only Pinball with three separate PF's?
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Hi a video of my HH on you tube.
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=MBlLUXA4rw4
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Hi a video of my HH on you tube.
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=MBlLUXA4rw4
Nice Video... Reminds me of what a great game it is..
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Just placed my first order with GPE, very fast service, now see what Aussie post does, especially this time of year.
unfortunatly GPE didnt have any 19 pin edge connectors, i will have to wait and see when they get some in, he
said he doesn't have any on order.
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Just placed my first order with GPE, very fast service, now see what Aussie post does, especially this time of year.
unfortunatly GPE didnt have any 19 pin edge connectors, i will have to wait and see when they get some in, he
said he doesn't have any on order.
You should have it before christmas - I allow 2 weeks. Nearly always arrives on Fridays !!
No more 19 pin edge connectors.. Bummer..
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Just placed my first order with GPE, very fast service, now see what Aussie post does, especially this time of year.
unfortunatly GPE didnt have any 19 pin edge connectors, i will have to wait and see when they get some in, he
said he doesn't have any on order.
You should have it before christmas - I allow 2 weeks. Nearly always arrives on Fridays !!
No more 19 pin edge connectors.. Bummer..
I put my first order in with GPE on the 4th. Arrived today. Awesome service and they will now be my first stop!
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only hear positive things about GPE, thats super fast delivery from the US, Takes longer than that
from Melbourne %.%
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gives you a seance of achievement when its all covered in, even though theres a lot more to do
and the glass quietens the workings of the game down, you can actually hear the sound properly.
OK - Haunted House thread, and you say it gives you a seance of achievement - either Freudian, spooky, or both! &&
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only hear positive things about GPE, thats super fast delivery from the US, Takes longer than that
from Melbourne %.%
Yep - GPE are GREAT for finding "hard to get" parts - and Ed's packing is legendary !
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gives you a seance of achievement when its all covered in, even though theres a lot more to do
and the glass quietens the workings of the game down, you can actually hear the sound properly.
OK - Haunted House thread, and you say it gives you a seance of achievement - either Freudian, spooky, or both! &&
Thats Spooky !*!
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Just placed my first order with GPE, very fast service, now see what Aussie post does, especially this time of year.
unfortunatly GPE didnt have any 19 pin edge connectors, i will have to wait and see when they get some in, he
said he doesn't have any on order.
got my order from GPE today 7 days from the USA super fast delivery.
waiting on some stuff from Futurlec 4 weeks so far, there site says my order shipped today, after a couple of Emails.
they say they were waiting on a part for my order.
i usually don't have this much trouble with them.
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Hi Guys,
ive been a bit lazy with the resto of my HH, been busy with the holiday season, kids still on school holidays.
the last few days ive been re pinning the connectors, ive got sore fingers from pulling the wires out of the housings.
i got some cheap crimpers from Futurelec,WRONG MOVE. I ended up putting another order
into GPE and got the 1028 crimpers (i think thats the number) i done this when GPE were on holidays so only got
them the other day, THEY WORK A TREAT i would recomend them to any one for crimping molex pins.
I also done the ground mods for system 80s boards, i found some of clays documents a little confusing, do you have to run a
ground wire from the power supply metal plate to the ground bus in the bottom of the cabinet, and also do you have to run a ground wire
from the power supply metal plate to the key lock in the machine head.
cheers Ian
some pics.
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Thanks for posting this Ian,
Really enjoyed reading it all from start to finish. Haven't played a HH since the mid 1980s.
You did well picking her up and bringing it all back to life.
Thanks again for sharing! ^^^
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Thanks Ian for the article. I was suprised by the size of the lower playfield! Is this and Black Hole the only 3 layer games made?
With the decal, are you printing these out at home? What sort of paper/vinyl are you using.
Thanks Derek
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Thanks Ian for the article. I was suprised by the size of the lower playfield! Is this and Black Hole the only 3 layer games made?
With the decal, are you printing these out at home? What sort of paper/vinyl are you using.
Thanks Derek
Hi Derek, as far as i know HH is the only three level playfield pin, im not sure but Black hole is only two level !@#, ive never seen one.
im using plain A4 paper with a sticky back, and a bubble jet printer, printed at home.
cheers Ian.
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Thanks for posting this Ian,
Really enjoyed reading it all from start to finish. Haven't played a HH since the mid 1980s.
You did well picking her up and bringing it all back to life.
Thanks again for sharing! ^^^
Thanks mate, and i enjoy doing it as well, still a lot to do tho.
cheers Ian
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Thanks Ian, My bad!
I was thinking both HH and BH were both 3 layer playfield games by Gottlieb but your right, BH is only 2 level.
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Don't forget Bally Elektra !
http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=elektra&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick
(Not a Gottlieb, but noteworthy) !
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SFII? and Krull (I think this only got to prototype)
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Don't forget Bally Elektra !
http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=elektra&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick
(Not a Gottlieb, but noteworthy) !
Yep spot on Nino.
Only difference between HH and Elektra is Elektras ball on the lower playfield is trapped where HH's ball travels across all 3 playfields.
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Don't forget Bally Elektra !
http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=elektra&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick
(Not a Gottlieb, but noteworthy) !
Yep spot on Nino.
Only difference between HH and Elektra is Elektras ball on the lower playfield is trapped where HH's ball travels across all 3 playfields.
For some reason, Elektra does not have a good rep at all. I find that really strange.
HH is one of the most desirable games of the era.
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[quote author=Strangeways link=topic=311.msg9046#msg9046 date=1233021034
For some reason, Elektra does not have a good rep at all. I find that really strange.
HH is one of the most desirable games of the era.
[/quote]
Hey Nino, I have an Elektra and Black Hole is a better machine in all regards, except to work on ^&^
Elektra has no pop bumpers and a super difficult upper playfield, so a lot of shots just go up and down without much happening. The lower playfield if fun but becomes very spankable once you get the hang of it - again it does not have the variation of the BH lower playfield, and the need to drop that bank of targets when you get it down there:D The main excitement with Elektra is to try and get the three ball multiball, which is very difficult.
cheers
Ian
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[quote author=Strangeways link=topic=311.msg9046#msg9046 date=1233021034
For some reason, Elektra does not have a good rep at all. I find that really strange.
HH is one of the most desirable games of the era.
Hey Nino, I have an Elektra and Black Hole is a better machine in all regards, except to work on ^&^
Elektra has no pop bumpers and a super difficult upper playfield, so a lot of shots just go up and down without much happening. The lower playfield if fun but becomes very spankable once you get the hang of it - again it does not have the variation of the BH lower playfield, and the need to drop that bank of targets when you get it down there:D The main excitement with Elektra is to try and get the three ball multiball, which is very difficult.
cheers
Ian
[/quote]
I have had two opportunities to buy an elektra - both projects. Not really high on the priority list, but I like games that are hard like Medusa and the multiball on BH. Hopefully I will get an opportunity to play one - maybe own one !
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Ive had my HH striped down for some time now, the head has been taken off waiting for some black touch ups, the attic playfield sitting on the work bench waiting to be striped down, god ive been slack.
anyway the missus said today when are you going to finish that pinball machine, I said i just cant get motivated.
So i headed down stairs to start doing something to it.
I striped the attic PF of all its parts.
put a new coil sleeve in the pop bumper and cleaned all the parts.
then i noticed the mylar was lifted a bit in one spot, so as you do i pulled at it and it started to lift quite easy
so i pulled a fair bit up and the paint was staying put, so i went and got the wifes hair dryer and proceeded to remove all the mylar
on the top PF, i thought that went well so i moved onto the main PF and removed all the mylar from it as well with minimal paint lift
the only places the paint lifted was were the paint was worn on the edges of the mylar.
I was going to use the freeze spray to remove the mylar but hadnt bought any yet.
So i was left with a sticky PF because the glue was left behind, i had no goo gone, Bunnings is 150km away, Woolies didnt have any
so i decided to use eucalyptus oil as it is supposed to remove sticky residue, It worked quite well, rubbed it on and let it soak in and rub some more on and then rub with a dry rag or just used my fingers to rub up the glue, the glue rolled up into balls.
then a good clean with shellite.
cheers Ian
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Looks great Ian. The mylar on the HH is factory, so I'm really pleased it came off easy. I'm planning to do the same.
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Some more pics of the mylar removal.
before and after pics of the ghost.
cheers Ian
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Once the ballswirl is gone - it will look awesome !
Any plans on re mylaring / clearcoating ? Or will it be a case of clean and wax ?
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[quote author=Strangeways link=topic=311.msg9046#msg9046 date=1233021034
For some reason, Elektra does not have a good rep at all. I find that really strange.
HH is one of the most desirable games of the era.
Hey Nino, I have an Elektra and Black Hole is a better machine in all regards, except to work on ^&^
Elektra has no pop bumpers and a super difficult upper playfield, so a lot of shots just go up and down without much happening. The lower playfield if fun but becomes very spankable once you get the hang of it - again it does not have the variation of the BH lower playfield, and the need to drop that bank of targets when you get it down there:D The main excitement with Elektra is to try and get the three ball multiball, which is very difficult.
cheers
Ian
I have had two opportunities to buy an elektra - both projects. Not really high on the priority list, but I like games that are hard like Medusa and the multiball on BH. Hopefully I will get an opportunity to play one - maybe own one !
[/quote]
If youre ever in Newcastle drop in for a game of mine Nino.
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Once the ballswirl is gone - it will look awesome !
Any plans on re mylaring / clearcoating ? Or will it be a case of clean and wax ?
Probably re mylar, i will have to make a decal for around the pop bumper on the top PF and the main PF.
cheers Ian
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Hi guys,slowly plugging away with this restore, I have finally finished the attic PF, here are a few before and after pics. enjoy.
cheers Ian
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Wow,
That mini pf came out unreal. Great stuff.....Looks NIB!!
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I agree with marty that does look NIB great work
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Great Update Ian - looks very nice !
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Agreed - thanks for posting Ian - that playfield looks brand new - you should be really happy (as I'm sure you are) ^^^
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Looking good Ian. Been looking at a few resto threads and enjoy gaining more and more knowledge before really having a red hot go myself. One thing I read a lot of is "making a decal for the playfield" What materials are involved to successfully make this happen. I'm presuming not buying clear inkjet sticker paper from officeworks or am I mistaken?
I've printed stuff on my inkjet and find it a little amatureish looking. So like I mentioned earlier, I like to plan ahead and when thinking of removing mylar from my T2, I'd like to be prepared in case paint does lift rather than worry about it once it has occurred and spew for days not knowing whether I can do a satifactory job.
An example of what I mean is Marty has given me leads for insert decals if they lift, so if it happens, I'm at least confident that I got a chance to get back to square one and use the best decals available.
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Hi guys just slowly plodding along with this restore, i have stripped the main play field of all its parts, given it a wipe down with shellite,
got the magic eraser with isopropol? on to the ball swirl,these thing are magic.
some pics for your amusement.
cheers Ian.
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Looks great Ian - The ME makes a huge difference !
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Your doing a great job with this game makes me want to get myself another project already lol
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Hi guys,
I have being touching up the play field with acrylic paints, i got lucky i think as i didnt have to mix any colors, and the colors of the shelf were a very close match, any way i have finished the touch ups and have covered the whole play field with a mylar, not every ones choice i know, but it is the easiest option.
I have repopulated the play field and need to strip the flipper assemblies and clean them.
legs need rust removed and new leg levelers.
still a bit to do but getting very close now.
for those that like pics, look now.
Ian
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Look at that shine ! Does not look like the same machine.
Your touch up work is excellent - the orange is very hard to tell if in fact it is a touch up
^^^
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Looking really good there Ian there are some very talented people on this forum
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yea the play field at the top edge of the window was worn to wood as you can see, it come up pretty good if i do say so myself.
I need to get a new window, this one was painted gold on the under side so you could not see into the cabinet, because it didnt have the cellar PF installed, any way i thought i might try and scrape the paint off, it worked pretty good but got some scratches in it.
i saw some Black Hole windows on ebay so i hope some green HH ones come up.
also i will have to make a couple of plastics, one for the secret passage and one where the ball pops up to the attic.
Ian
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Ian would like to know the brand and colour of the paint used for the touch up around the window please...
Mine needs doing also and yours looks fantastic....
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Ian would like to know the brand and colour of the paint used for the touch up around the window please...
Mine needs doing also and yours looks fantastic....
Hi Pinfan the paints were purchased from Spotlight.
Ian
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Thank you very much Ian...
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Wow thats coming up a treat. well done, those touchups look great ^^^ ^^^
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Awesome work. Great looking machine and worth all the hard work you've invested into it.
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Wow Ian, that game looks a million dollars! ^^^
I want to play one :lol
Haven't played a HH for about 15 years and after playing Rollerballs BH was very impressed *%*
The paints you bought from Spotlight, how many different colours did they stock?
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Wow Ian, that game looks a million dollars! ^^^
I want to play one :lol
Haven't played a HH for about 15 years and after playing Rollerballs BH was very impressed *%*
The paints you bought from Spotlight, how many different colours did they stock?
probably about 12 to 15 different colours.
yea i was playing HH before the resto began with some ordinary rubbers on it, with all the new rubbers and just rolling the ball around the PF you can see the extra bounce, cant wait to fire it up again.
Ian
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Ian,
Did you have to do any other mods to your HH, like the pull-up resistors for under playfield transistors and the fuse/capacitor mods for slings etc as well?
(I'm about to embark on these myself).
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Ian,
Did you have to do any other mods to your HH, like the pull-up resistors for under playfield transistors and the fuse/capacitor mods for slings etc as well?
(I'm about to embark on these myself).
Mate the pull up resistors were already there, done at the factory by the looks of it.
still got the fuse/caps to do, i got some inline fuse holders for the job.(some caps were done but will replace them)
I have a pop bumper board for the up kicker on the lower PF to hook up as well.
I have upgraded all the pop bumper boards 2 of them for the main PF and 1 for the attic PF and 1 for the cellar PF
Ian
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Ian,
Did you have to do any other mods to your HH, like the pull-up resistors for under playfield transistors and the fuse/capacitor mods for slings etc as well?
(I'm about to embark on these myself).
Mate the pull up resistors were already there, done at the factory by the looks of it.
still got the fuse/caps to do, i got some inline fuse holders for the job.(some caps were done but will replace them)
I have a pop bumper board for the up kicker on the lower PF to hook up as well.
I have upgraded all the pop bumper boards 2 of them for the main PF and 1 for the attic PF and 1 for the cellar PF
Ian
Ahh, that makes it a bit easy. Mine was low number production (BH) and no pullups installed. I've replaced all my PBB's with Rottendogs. I've got about 4 originals which one of them I'll modify and use it for the lower pf up kicker. From Pinrepair's guide they state is only required for HH but I'll do it anyway.
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I also done the ground mods for system 80s boards, i found some of clays documents a little confusing, do you have to run a
ground wire from the power supply metal plate to the ground bus in the bottom of the cabinet, and also do you have to run a ground wire
from the power supply metal plate to the key lock in the machine head.
cheers Ian
some pics.
hey guys do i need to run a ground wire from the power supply bracket/board in the head to the ground bus in the cabinet.
Ian
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I also done the ground mods for system 80s boards, i found some of clays documents a little confusing, do you have to run a
ground wire from the power supply metal plate to the ground bus in the bottom of the cabinet, and also do you have to run a ground wire
from the power supply metal plate to the key lock in the machine head.
cheers Ian
some pics.
hey guys do i need to run a ground wire from the power supply bracket/board in the head to the ground bus in the cabinet.
Ian
Yes mate - From the ground bar on the power supply right through to the ground strip on the transformer board.
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thanks Nino,i wasnt sure weather this was correct or not.
Ian
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Great work! Looks really good.
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Well I got my HH going yesterday after a few problems, I have spent a couple of days trying to sort out a switch matrix problem, that was the only problem at the start.
I powered Haunted House up and started playing a game, the ball landed in the top kicker hole, but the ball did not kick out and did not score any points.I then tested some other targets and gates, none of them scored points.
I looked up the switch matrix in the manual and in Clays repair guides and found that I had two columns of switches not working, I swapped the 7400 chips with each other, no change, I swapped the 7404 chips with each other, no change, I swapped the RIOT chip with the one on the sound board, still no change, I checked continuity between the board and the connector plug, this checked out ok. I checked all the diodes, they were all ok.
I checked for broken wires under the PF and continuity between the A1-J6 plug and the switches involved under the PF, they checked out ok.
So I had spent about 5 to 6 hours on this problem, so I decided to pull the cpu out and take it upstairs in the warm and check every chip for continuity to the board, This board and the whole machine was working fine before the restoration, all I done was the ground mods and replaced the 5101 and cleaned the edge contacts, any way I had just about had enough after testing all the chips, but for some reason I decided to check the A1-J6 contacts for continuity further up the traces, one probe on the copper contact and the other end on the trace where it connects to a chip, BINGO two traces had no continuity, they had hair line cracks at the connecter, a bit of solder and the board is working fine again.
I done the mod to the up kicker by adding a pop bumper board to the lower PF, man this mod is defiantly worth doing the kicker has not missed kicking the ball first time every time, and it has a lot more powerful kick with it.
The other problem that developed after a couple of games was weak flippers, I adjusted the EOS switch witch has made a big difference.
I still have to de rust the legs and give the coin door a scrub.
The game plays so much better now that it has been re rubbered, it is very fast, a completely different game to six months ago.
Cheers Ian
pic... broken traces in the red circle.
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It makes sense that the traces would break there, as any pressure on the board will be exerted in those sorts of areas.
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Hi ive spent a few hours today with the ranex rust buster cleaning the rust from my legs with steel wool.
new leg levelers installed as well, i still have to remove the coin door and clean that up as well.
the game is playing good, but have had to adjust some switch gaps, and i keep having problems with a flipper going weak
after a few games.
Ian
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Hi ive spent a few hours today with the ranex rust buster cleaning the rust from my legs with steel wool.
new leg levelers installed as well, i still have to remove the coin door and clean that up as well.
the game is playing good, but have had to adjust some switch gaps, and i keep having problems with a flipper going weak
after a few games.
Ian
Legs cleaned up great!
Usually with a flipper going weak after a few games you would be looking at a component overheating. Typically this could be the coil or the driver transistor.
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Ranex is such an easy and cheap way to shine up the legs - they look great !
Check the weak coil for overheating - if it is getting hot then the EOS is not gapped correctly